Surely this can't be right? The phone is supposed to have a 2600 mAh battery.
Is there any other way I can test the capacity of the battery as I can't rule out a faulty ammeter.
I used a quick charge 2.0 charger and it reached 70% after 45 minutes with a reading of 800 mAh on the ammeter.
I'm bamboozled by this.
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SOLD, thanks for looking.
what about ur location ????????????????
SOLD
Out of interest how much more talktime does the 3300mah battery give u?
I used Spb Benchmark to conduct battery tests with both my standard battery (1490 mAh) and the 3300 mAh Mugen Power version. Using the max backlight standard usage test I got four hours and 54 minutes with the 1490 mAh battery and a whopping 11 hours and 3 minutes with the Mugen Power battery.
Just bought a 3500 mah battery. I heard if charged with the evo it will only charge it to 1500 mah. Is that true? If so do I have to charge out externally or is there another way?
Sent from my htc evo 4g. ALL HAIL EVO 3D!!!
No, not true at all. At first, yes, because it's used to the 1500 mAh stock battery, but it will start being fully used after a few charging cycles. Just give it time, and it'll be fine.
You don't need anything extra.
You can also wipe battery stats to make the process a little quicker.
I can verify what JustRuin wrote - I actually gathered data from Current Widget and Bat Stat, and compiled them into a spreadsheet (hey, I was bored at work, and it beats calling customers). What I found is that the phone will display that it's full in terms of percentage, once it's charged to what would be 1500 mAh based on the percentage it's showing when you start charging. For example, if you're showing 33 %, that would be 500 mAh out of 1,500 mAh for the stock charger. If you then charge it at a net charging current of, say, 1,000 mA, the light will turn green and the phone will show 100% in about an hour. but the voltage will still be down around 3.9v, and the net charging current will continue at the same level until the voltage reaches around 4.2 volts. On the stock battery, the charging current will start dropping after you reach 60%, and by the time you're around 90%, it will barely be charging at all. On the 3500 mAh battery, charging current stays consistent until you're around 4.15 -4.2v. If you simply leave it on the charger for a couple hours longer, you'll have a full charge and no problems with battery life.
hercules rockefeller said:
I can verify what JustRuin wrote - I actually gathered data from Current Widget and Bat Stat, and compiled them into a spreadsheet (hey, I was bored at work, and it beats calling customers). What I found is that the phone will display that it's full in terms of percentage, once it's charged to what would be 1500 mAh based on the percentage it's showing when you start charging. For example, if you're showing 33 %, that would be 500 mAh out of 1,500 mAh for the stock charger. If you then charge it at a net charging current of, say, 1,000 mA, the light will turn green and the phone will show 100% in about an hour. but the voltage will still be down around 3.9v, and the net charging current will continue at the same level until the voltage reaches around 4.2 volts. On the stock battery, the charging current will start dropping after you reach 60%, and by the time you're around 90%, it will barely be charging at all. On the 3500 mAh battery, charging current stays consistent until you're around 4.15 -4.2v. If you simply leave it on the charger for a couple hours longer, you'll have a full charge and no problems with battery life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so what your saying is that even tho the light is green, the phone will still be charging?
Yep, it's definitely charging.
This is why i dont use sbc. I went a whole day without charging. From 7:30am to just about 15 mins a.go and i still had 50 percent left on my battery. simply just unplugging it and plugging it back in before i take my shower in the morning and i stay at 100% for about 2 hours.
A week or so ago I got a good deal on a nice solar charger, but was rather surprised at how ineffective it was at charging my Kindle Fire. The charger is basically a 4,000 mAh battery coupled with a 1.4 W solar panel, and puts out 1 A at 5.5 V. The Kindle, has a 4,400 mAh battery and can charge at up to 1.8 A (per the adapter), so I figured the two would be a good match.
Sadly, I only got about a +30% charge for the Kindle while depleting the charger. My first thought was that the 4,000 mAh charger battery really was too good to be true at that price, so I tested it with my phone's external battery charger, and got 2540 mAh of charge plus several hours of trickle charging between batteries.
Doing some research, lithium ion batteries have 80-90% charge/discharge efficiency, and charging efficiency is 97-99%. The charging circuits between the two batteries also must pull from these figures. So, 2,540 mAh and a fair bit of trickle charging seems reasonable for a 4,000 mAh battery to supply another battery. That's 80% minus 660 mAh of wasted charging/other inefficiencies.
Now, came the question of why my Kindle is getting less than half of that. Feeling that the charger was getting warm, I figure that the Kindle is taking advantage of the full amp offered, and perhaps more (I may have to catabolize some cables and rig up my multimeter to be sure). Furthermore, there is no way to charge the Kindle when it's powered off, so you get a constant drain from that (on AC power-management settings, no less).
To test that latter concept, I left my 95% charged Kindle on the charger last night, and it completely drained the charger in about 15 hours. This seems quite high for the power consumption of an idle device, but I'm sure it "thinks" it's on AC and there's little reason to conserve. Which explains why I'm getting such poor performance for my external charger. Or so I think...
All that said, does this mirror other people's experiences?
So I charged my Note 7 (N930F Exynos) up to 100% and used an app called GSam Battery Monitor to read the voltage. It read 4.37v. I'm not a battery expert but unless it's one of those HV cells it should be around 4.2v correct?
If the reading is just inaccurate it should swing above and below 4.2v between devices when charged to full capacity, right?
So... Would anyone like to download the app and post their voltage reading and phone model after charging to 100%? It would be interesting to see the results... And get an average.
If anyone knows any better or thinks this is stupid for whatever reason let me know.
azzicles said:
So I charged my Note 7 (N930F Exynos) up to 100% and used an app called GSam Battery Monitor to read the voltage. It read 4.37v. I'm not a battery expert but unless it's one of those HV cells it should be around 4.2v correct?
If the reading is just inaccurate it should swing above and below 4.2v between devices when charged to full capacity, right?
So... Would anyone like to download the app and post their voltage reading and phone model after charging to 100%? It would be interesting to see the results... And get an average.
If anyone knows any better or thinks this is stupid for whatever reason let me know.
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Click to collapse
Some Lithium Ion batteries can be safely charged to 4.35v. Samsung and LG both make such cells.
Chippy_boy said:
Some Lithium Ion batteries can be safely charged to 4.35v. LG make such cells.
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Fixed it for you.....
Okay so I found an image of the Note 7 battery. (iFixit)
Nominal Voltage: 3.85v
Charge Voltage: 4.4v
So it's supposed to charge to 4.4v. So 3.85v (And I guess 4.37v) is normal under load? Does that mean my readings are normal?
Thought I was on to something.
56K said:
Fixed it for you.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fixed it for you....
http://www.orbtronic.com/batteries-...pacity-li-ion-rechargeable-18650-battery-cell
Description
Samsung Li-ion 3000mAh (3Ah) 18650 high capacity cell.
This battery rechargeable cell can be charged to 4.35V
Flat top.
Nominal Capacity 3,000mAh
Nominal Voltage 3.78V
Charge Method Constant Current / Constant Voltage
Max. Charge Voltage level (V) 4.35V
Charge Current (C) 0.5C (1.5A)
Min. Discharge Voltage level (V) 2.75V
Model: ICR-18650-30B (Newest Rev. B)
Dimension (mm) 18mm x 65mm
Max Weight (g) 48g
Built-in (internal) Safety Functional Layer
New! Latest (Rev. B) production release is in stock
Made by Samsung
Chippy_boy said:
Fixed it for you....
http://www.orbtronic.com/batteries-...pacity-li-ion-rechargeable-18650-battery-cell
Description
Samsung Li-ion 3000mAh (3Ah) 18650 high capacity cell.
This battery rechargeable cell can be charged to 4.35V
Flat top.
Nominal Capacity 3,000mAh
Nominal Voltage 3.78V
Charge Method Constant Current / Constant Voltage
Max. Charge Voltage level (V) 4.35V
Charge Current (C) 0.5C (1.5A)
Min. Discharge Voltage level (V) 2.75V
Model: ICR-18650-30B (Newest Rev. B)
Dimension (mm) 18mm x 65mm
Max Weight (g) 48g
Built-in (internal) Safety Functional Layer
New! Latest (Rev. B) production release is in stock
Made by Samsung
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It was a joke.
56K said:
It was a joke.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Went over my head, clearly!
So I bought myself a decent USB multimeter (RuiDeng UM25C) because I was curious about my Mi 6 battery capacity after 20 months of everyday heavy usage.
I was avoiding charging to 100% all this time (max to 70%), only charging to full once a month maybe and never using a phone during charging. I also rarely discharged to less than 30%. The full charge counter in /sys/class/power_supply/bms/cycle_count is showing 642 full accumulated charge cycles, so quite a lot.
USB meter showed 14300 mWh after a full charge 0-100% (which is 110% of the original capacity 12900 mWh, impossible). So I did a search and found an article saying that Quick Charge 3.0 has around 90% charging efficiency.
So I made a quick mathematics and calculated that the battery should have taken in 14300 mAh x 90% = 12870 mAh (the rest of energy dissipated as a heat), which is basically new battery's capacity (which is again quite improbable, even with my special battery treating ).
My question is: is this calculation wrong? And if it is totally wrong - what should I count in additionally to get the more proper mWh estimation?
Thanks for any help