Hi fellas..
Maybe you've noticed the messages I've sent to Unofficial BravoS thread of Coolexe's (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1200517&page=51) which is the ROM I use.
The issue is, the battery discharges rapidly. Actually, if you check mV values, it doesn't discharge rapidly, but if you look at percentages, there is a huge inconsistency. I used Battery Monitor Widget to log the battery performances last night, and saw these horrible results:
Code:
2011/09/19|04:59:49|-515mA|37%|3581mV|40.2ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|05:00:51|-465mA|36%|3576mV|40.2ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|05:01:49|-460mA|36%|3576mV|40.2ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|05:02:50|-462mA|35%|3517mV|40.2ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|05:03:49|-477mA|35%|3517mV|40.2ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|05:04:50|-471mA|34%|3449mV|40.3ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|05:06:06|-478mA|0%|3415mV|40.5ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|05:06:08|-478mA|0%|3415mV|40.5ºC|1|0
These are the last lines of the log, before the phone shuts down. As you can see, the phone gone to 0% from 34% in one minute! No low battery warnings or whatsoever..
Funny thing is, this doesn't happen in StarBurst ROM (which is a Froyo based one). Do you reckon this is a GingerBread issue or something? I saw some other people complaining about their phone shutting down at 20% as well.
So, what do you suggest?
when you look at the voltage there isnt that much drain, so its only a displaying problem
wipe battery stats and maybe recalibrate the battery
but first one should fix it
cheers
ps: i just checked, my desire is at 18% with 3.693mV, now you see the differance
crendot said:
when you look at the voltage there isnt that much drain, so its only a displaying problem
wipe battery stats and maybe recalibrate the battery
but first one should fix it
cheers
ps: i just checked, my desire is at 18% with 3.693mV, now you see the differance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what I've done so far:
Drained battery to 0% (log above) and charged it a little bit while powered off (like 20%). Turned on the phone, and obtained those logs (last lines only):
Code:
2011/09/19|14:41:25|-268mA|10%|3644mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:42:25|-267mA|10%|3644mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:43:25|-270mA|10%|3644mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:44:25|-269mA|9%|3644mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:45:25|-267mA|9%|3644mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:46:25|-268mA|9%|3644mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:47:25|-266mA|8%|3644mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:48:25|-267mA|8%|3644mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:49:25|-269mA|7%|3640mV|38.0ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:50:25|-267mA|7%|3640mV|38.0ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:51:25|-266mA|7%|3640mV|38.0ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:52:25|-267mA|7%|3640mV|38.0ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:53:25|-267mA|6%|3640mV|38.0ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:54:25|-267mA|6%|3640mV|38.0ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:55:25|-267mA|5%|3635mV|38.0ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:56:25|-266mA|5%|3635mV|38.0ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:57:25|-267mA|5%|3635mV|38.0ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:58:25|-268mA|5%|3635mV|38.0ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|14:59:25|-268mA|4%|3630mV|38.0ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|15:00:25|-319mA|4%|3630mV|38.0ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|15:01:25|-268mA|4%|3630mV|38.0ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|15:02:25|-270mA|3%|3610mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|15:03:25|-269mA|3%|3610mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|15:04:25|-270mA|2%|3586mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|15:05:25|-273mA|2%|3586mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|15:06:25|-273mA|2%|3586mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|15:07:25|-273mA|2%|3586mV|38.1ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|15:08:25|-289mA|1%|3513mV|38.3ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|15:09:25|-290mA|1%|3513mV|38.3ºC|1|0
2011/09/19|15:09:51|-290mA|0%|3464mV|38.3ºC|1|0
It seems more "smooth" discharge now. Right now, I'm charging my phone off; going to turn on phone once it reaches "green light" with charger on, and plug it off once phone booted. Maybe then, it can know what's maximum and minimum.
So far, I tried to charge my phone to full and erase batterystats.bin but, as you can see at the first post, it didn't work well.. On the other hand, the phone charged-discharged only once in this ROM, you think it could be better if I've given a "second chance"?
i dont know much about that "battery calibrating" and reseting stuff, you have to search in the forum
only thing i want to say is, dont do that deep drains!
recharge at least 5%! you kill your battery, lithium-ion batterys get serious damage from deep drains
crendot said:
i dont know much about that "battery calibrating" and reseting stuff, you have to search in the forum
only thing i want to say is, dont do that deep drains!
recharge at least 5%! you kill your battery, lithium-ion batterys get serious damage from deep drains
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know, but when phone thinks it's 30% and not warn me, how can I do it?
In order to calibrate the battery meter - FYI the battery itself cannot be calibrated, as Li-Ion batteries have a very low memory compared to old Ni-Cd etc. batteries - you have to go through the following procedure:
1) charge the battery to 100%;
2) let the battery discharge until the phone shuts itself down;
3) plug the wall charger into the phone, boot the phone up then charge the battery to 100% without interruptions.
If the above procedure does not yield the expected results, you can try fully charging the phone (LED showing green) with it completely turned off (after completely draining it). Again, the charging procedure should not be interrupted.
Source: personal experience - had to do this twice after installing new ROMs, as the phone was shutting down at ~14% (working like a charm now).
Regarding the matter of battery wear because of complete discharges, Li-Ion batteries do indeed have a lower cycle count than old-school batteries, but the standard charge/discharge number a Li-Ion battery can take is ~350, so you can't damage the battery pack by doing a full cycle per month (required to keep the battery meter accurate).
Good luck!
TVTV said:
In order to calibrate the battery meter - FYI the battery itself cannot be calibrated, as Li-Ion batteries have a very low memory compared to old Ni-Cd etc. batteries - you have to go through the following procedure:
1) charge the battery to 100%;
2) let the battery discharge until the phone shuts itself down;
3) plug the wall charger into the phone, boot the phone up then charge the battery to 100% without interruptions.
If the above procedure does not yield the expected results, you can try fully charging the phone (LED showing green) with it completely turned off (after completely draining it). Again, the charging procedure should not be interrupted.
Source: personal experience - had to do this twice after installing new ROMs, as the phone was shutting down at ~14% (working like a charm now).
Regarding the matter of battery wear because of complete discharges, Li-Ion batteries do indeed have a lower cycle count than old-school batteries, but the standard charge/discharge number a Li-Ion battery can take is ~350, so you can't damage the battery pack by doing a full cycle per month (required to keep the battery meter accurate).
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer...
Today I realized that it my concern was a quick one. Today, I discharged battery to 0 percent, plugged the AC charger while it's OFF and charged it for around 2h22m until Led-green-full; then turned on the phone with charger plugged and plugged it off just after the boot process. After that, I let the phone to discharge (I helped it a little )
I actually saw "Plug your charger" warning this time, and according to Bat. Mon. Widget, it gone down until 13%! If I do compare the mV values with the old ones, I can see that somehow the phone does learn which mV value correspond to which percentage better.
Even though it gone from 13% to 0% in two minutes, it's at least better than 30% to 0%.. Also, when I check the readings after I plugged in, I saw that percentage-voltage matching is slightly higher, showing that the phone now shows lower percentage for the same voltage - which shows that it learns percentage better.
After one or two charge-discharge cycle, I think it'll learn absolute 0
BTW; the battery says 3.4V 1400mAh and my maximum voltage is 4160mV (100%) and minimum is 3415mV (0%). Are these values normal, you think?
PS: What I'd recommend from anyone who loves flashing ROMs as much as I do is: AFTER YOU FLASHED A NEW ROM, CHARGE YOUR BATTERY TO FULL (100%) AND ERASE THE BATTERY STATS. AFTER THIS, NEVER, I SAY, NEVER ERASE YOUR BATTERY STATS FOR LONG TIME IN ORDER FOR YOUR PHONE TO LEARN STATS BETTER! Erase after long time, say 3 months for wear effects to be accounted, but well, I think you should be fine even after you don't do this
Maybe you did already know that, but, well, I learned it hard way
EDIT: Phone shutdown at 13% after this, but I think it'll do better in time..
Can't Calibrate the Widget
I am having a similar issue with my htc aria. Problem is that it gets to about 78% and then won't go any higher. It even shows (in Battery Monitor Widget)
"Discharging" and "AC plugged". I have let it sit plenty long enough to be fully charged and then completely discharged it (until it shut itself down, which was not 0%) and recharged until it reaches 78% again and stops charging. I'm guessing it is so far out of whack that it says I'm at 78% but I am really at 100%.
The widget says to charge to 100% and then drain completely to 0% to calibrate. I can't do either from what I can tell. So what to do?
theGanymedes said:
Today, I discharged battery to 0 percent, plugged the AC charger while it's OFF and charged it for around 2h22m until Led-green-full; then turned on the phone with charger plugged and plugged it off just after the boot process.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quick tip - let the phone charge for another hour or so after the light goes green (when charging it while powered off). I've read that the light goes green at about 95%. It takes another hour for the phone to really charge to 100%. That's because Li-Ion batteries use two stages to charge: a fast one and a slow one. More details here.
Glad i could help.
P.S. - It also took me two complete charge/discharge cycles to fully calibrate my battery meter after switching from FroYo to Gingerbread.
@vkyjackie - Try fully charging the phone while powered off. If it still doesn't fully charge (LED green), then you might have an issue with either the battery pack or the wall charger.
I notice the "tips" to use it to charge it to 95% MAX, and use it to no less than 5%. Are these claims true? I have no problems of re-charging it before the 5% mark, but to constantly keeping an eye on the phone while charging it can be tedious and annoying.
Anybody can shed some light my way regarding this subject?
Thank you!
Well, your anker lipo would feel better (and any other lithium polymer battery for that sake) if you would not do full cycle every time. Full cycle means you goes from full to empty charge/discharge. (95 down to 5% counts almost as a full cycle)
Say chemistry in lipo can make 200 full cycles before 20% capacity lost or 500 half cycles (like from 100 to 50% and then recharge to 100%). See the difference, longevity will be bit better with half-cycles.
If you store lipo for prolonged period of time (like month) then don't charge it to 100% but to 50%.
And don't keep your phone in high temp zones (like in a sun in the car) this will kill lipo in no time.
Other then that just enjoy your anker. It's cheap enough to replace it in 500 half-cycles (which might be translated to couple years)
Thanks for the response! From the way you describe it, it sounds very familiar with how my lipo batteries for my rc cars work.
I usually charge my phone at 30% mark to fully charge. So, given that, it'd be ok for me to charge it overnight (to 100% then trickle charge until morning), and let it discharge to 30 - 40% then recharge.
Phone will stop charging lipo when it reaches 4.2V so there is no problem to over-charge it... keep it on a charger overnight.
I do one full cycle about once in month but this is for different reason.
Usually, I can go from 100% at morning to 40% at evening in two days. Then recharge it overnight. I think my Anker 2200mAh will outlast my SGSII.
So I have a zerolemon 10000 mah battery for my note 3, I just switched to cm11 and noticed the battery percentage meter was going wacky and wasn't being accurate (eg. It would jump up 10 percent after a reboot or last hours on 1 percent with heavy use) so I followed the instructions for fixing it, I let it drain completely and then I charged it to 100 percent while the phone was off, then I turned it on and charged it again until it showed full just like it said to do in the instructions, after this I went into my battery status app just out of curiosity, there I saw that the battery had 4250 mv , I am alarmed by this because the battery is only supposed to be 3.9 voltz, is my battery damaged? I always thought that the batteries have circuits in them to prevent overcharge then how come it overcharged my battery??
Sent from my SM-N900T using XDA Free mobile app
Actually battery voltage is a little bit tricky:
first of all it will show higher with no load than with load on it and higher the load, lower the voltage, full charge or not.
Secondly for example my original phone battery is rated 3.8v, but at full charge will be higher than 4 volts.
I don't remember how Li ion batteries are rated, but for example NiCd are rated at 1.2v, which would be the voltage the battery shows when under full load, under no load the voltage will be more than 1.5v and if that NiCd battery shows 1.2 v under no load it usually means it's close to being completely discharged. I don't have specs for your particular battery, but I'm sure fully charged with no load will show more than 4v.
Since the battery has protective circuit, it should still be within specs, before the damage occurs, so I don't think you should worry too much, however if you were doing this all the time, I'm sure you will shorten battery life.
Full charge for lipo is about 4.2V. So the battery is not overcharged. The batteries have a protective board on them, and the charge control on the phone won't allow overcharging either.
Do any of you experience that after 95% it seems to take way longer to charge that last 5% than getting to 95%?
Actually, the last 20% should be slower than initial 80% due to the battery being Li-ion and fast charging technology. You can have a quick search on google and see for yourself.
Specifically the Z Play I have, charging up to 80% is warmer and faster than the last 20%.
It is also suggested by a lot of people that you should only charge your device to 80% to maintain that battery for the longest time possible. I still charge my phone all the way tho.
It's how Lithium battery charging works, first it's constant current CC and then constant voltage CV. Once the battery voltage reaches a certain value (4.2V or more depending on the Lithium battery type), the charge current decreases every time the battery voltage tries to go over this preset max voltage. The charge current gradually decreases and when it reaches a certain value (usually 0.2-0.3A) the charge stops.
Awesome. Makes sense. I was just wondering. Good stuff!
EspElement said:
Do any of you experience that after 95% it seems to take way longer to charge that last 5% than getting to 95%?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will charge device fast till 76 percent after that it charges slowly.
You had also noticed that phone get warms up a little during charging till the battery percentage reach to 76 percent.
So I bought myself a decent USB multimeter (RuiDeng UM25C) because I was curious about my Mi 6 battery capacity after 20 months of everyday heavy usage.
I was avoiding charging to 100% all this time (max to 70%), only charging to full once a month maybe and never using a phone during charging. I also rarely discharged to less than 30%. The full charge counter in /sys/class/power_supply/bms/cycle_count is showing 642 full accumulated charge cycles, so quite a lot.
USB meter showed 14300 mWh after a full charge 0-100% (which is 110% of the original capacity 12900 mWh, impossible). So I did a search and found an article saying that Quick Charge 3.0 has around 90% charging efficiency.
So I made a quick mathematics and calculated that the battery should have taken in 14300 mAh x 90% = 12870 mAh (the rest of energy dissipated as a heat), which is basically new battery's capacity (which is again quite improbable, even with my special battery treating ).
My question is: is this calculation wrong? And if it is totally wrong - what should I count in additionally to get the more proper mWh estimation?
Thanks for any help