Am I imagining it or is my Desire giving me mini electric shocks?
It's just like a tingling sensation from around the edge of the phone. **Edit Anyone know what sort of multimeter I would need to test this and what settings I would use**
Should I take my phone back - I only got it last week?
Also the phone seems to heat up towards the lower quarter of the back under use - is this also normal?
Thanks
Coastline said:
Am I imagining it or is my Desire giving me mini electric shocks?
It's just like a tingling sensation from around the edge of the phone. **Edit Anyone know what sort of multimeter I would need to test this and what settings I would use**
Should I take my phone back - I only got it last week?
Also the phone seems to heat up towards the lower quarter of the back under use - is this also normal?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Electric shocks are not normal, warming up is.
Sent from my Evil Lair using Doomsday Device
I know what you mean by the electric shocks. A buddy of mine had the exact same problem with his desire. He walked around for a week getting zapped as he wasn't sure if he was imagining it. Take it back to HTC. Your phone needs to be serviced.
does this only happen if the phone is connected via the USB port to some external device like a notebook or your AC adapter? Then it's normal.
Does this also happen if it's not connected to anything? Then it's not normal
Heat:
Yes, it's normal. The CPU with a small heat spreader is located at the bottom of the desire. And the CPU produces heat. The Desire can get really warm, so nothing to worry about.
This happens when it's not plugged into anything.
Thought I was going nuts but I don't think so - well no more than usual.
Anyone have any suggestions for testing this. I have a multimeter but have no idea what I should do with it! :-(
put your Desire on a wooden desk and touch it with only one finger on the bronze colored edge. Do you get a shock then?
Or do you only get a shock while holding it in your hand? Maybe because there's a high voltage between the edge and the USB connector?
set your multimeter to Voltage. Put one probe on the edge of the Desire (without touching the Desire with your finger or anything else), the other probe to the ground, e.g. a conductive heater or a blank heating pipe or the ground pole in your wall socket (but be careful ).
Measure both DC and AC voltages. Any high voltages? Something above a few mV?
Also measure the voltage between the casing and the USB socket frame.
My theory... metal casing + static charge = electric schock! Used to get these in clothes stores
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
I can't get any reading of my multimeter but I must admit to not really knowing what I'm doing!
"Static" .....hmmm I wonder!
Well, it's gone to be examined! They may even send it to HTC to be tested!
Lady in the shop gave me that knowing "you're a looney" look!
When I mentioned it was more like a tingle than a shock she smiled and said "Maybe that's why they call it a 'Desire' "! Should have seen that one coming!
Maybe it is just me and static but as I haven't had it on any of my previous HTC phones there must be something with the design that amplifies it!
Just have to wait and see...
Coastline said:
Maybe it is just me and static but as I haven't had it on any of my previous HTC phones there must be something with the design that amplifies it!
Just have to wait and see...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it would just be the metal rim around the phone and the electrons on your fingers...
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Have my phone back from Vodafone:
"They are pleased to say the fault has been fixed"
"One of our engineers has thoroughly tested your phone. The repair centre was unable to identify a fault with your phone.
"As part of the repair process we have given your phone a full internal service including upgrading the software as this is how many faults are fixed!
So - the fault that they couldn't find is now fixed and my phone has new spark plugs and fresh oil!
Don't you just love automated letters!
So it's looking like it must be a static issue! Guess I'll just have to live with it!
cooooool....
Hi guys, my OnePlus 3's battery indicator is stuck on 50%. I think I must have broken the temperature sensor on it when I replaced the screen. The reason I think that is because in TWRP, the CPU temperature reads something like 1648375974799 degrees. I think because the phone thinks my its temperature is too high, so it won't charge my battery. When I unplugged my phone, it will run for a minute and it would run out of battery.
The funny thing is, I've just replaced the battery. When I switched it on, it read 90% and a few seconds later, it went back to 50% again. I just wiped my whole phone and it still reads 50% in TWRP.
I've tried looking at the parts list to see where the temperature sensor is but I couldn't find it. Is it on the mainboard or the sub board on the bottom of the phone?
Cheers!
I've had similar issues with the Nexus 5 not charging, which was caused by a fake battery (temperature sensor was always reading -30).
Given you've just replaced the battery, it might be the same case. I would first try restoring the original battery, just to rule the new battery out.
morphvale said:
I've had similar issues with the Nexus 5 not charging, which was caused by a fake battery (temperature sensor was always reading -30).
Given you've just replaced the battery, it might be the same case. I would first try restoring the original battery, just to rule the new battery out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there, thanks for the reply.
My original battery had this problem, so I thought I would be able to fix it by replacing the battery which was not the case. So I'm pretty convinced that I messed up the temperature sensor. Was looking for a way to disable or spoof the temperature sensor, or replacing the component instead of the main logic board which could be quite costly.
I'm having the same problem, I was told it is from damaging a super small capacitor that's really easy to knock off. Located right beside the battery connection plug on the main board. only problem is I can't find what the cap size is, to try and replace it. I located the damaged cap no problem and mine is diffently damaged, cracked right in the middle, leading me to believe the info about it being the problem was correct, but the article never gave the replacement info. Anyone possibly know the info for the cap located right beside the battery plug under the screen connection, bottom right corner on the one plus 3 main board?
There are 3 possible solutions for this issue.
1: replace battery.
2: change the ROM for one that changes the Kernel for a version without this temperature protection.
3: fix or replace the main board.
To fix the main board you need to check 2 things on it.
On the left side of the battery connector (under a double sided glue tape foam), there are some SMD. The lowest two are related with this problem. I fix my board resoldering the one on the right (nearest to the connector). Be aware that the SMD is small and when are desoldered, it gets sticked on the double sided glue tape foam. I took a picture of it, but i don't know how to insert here.
So the closest thing to Robin's battery is Vivo X5 Pro battery i bought mine of Amazon(IN), its a B-87 type battery.
Watch this youtube.com/watch?v=7hOuFjbT-E0 and this youtube.com/watch?v=BKGQ7vXnERI . {Search for Nextbit Robin Teardown on Youtube}
Open the robin carefully.
Remove the battery and cut the circuit on battery be careful we need this later
By this time you might have noticed that Vivo X5 Pro battery connector is on left side whereas robins is on right side plus is short and small
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disassemble the Vivo X5 pro battery and cut circuit remember the polarities now take robins circuit, negative side on robin is next to ribbon.
Stick the circuit to battery or solder it.
Resemble it and it should be good as new
. :good:
It looks like a nightmare to replace the battery ;(
How can I fit Vivo X5 pro battery to the original place?
Do I need to unwrap the battery?
Could you tell me more?
itsundef said:
So the closest thing to Robin's battery is Vivo X5 Pro battery i bought mine of Amazon(IN), its a B-87 type battery.
Watch this youtube.com/watch?v=7hOuFjbT-E0 and this youtube.com/watch?v=BKGQ7vXnERI . {Search for Nextbit Robin Teardown on Youtube}
Open the robin carefully.
Remove the battery and cut the circuit on battery be careful we need this later
By this time you might have noticed that Vivo X5 Pro battery connector is on left side whereas robins is on right side plus is short and small
disassemble the Vivo X5 pro battery and cut circuit remember the polarities now take robins circuit, negative side on robin is next to ribbon.
Stick the circuit to battery or solder it.
Resemble it and it should be good as new
. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How can I fit Vivo X5 pro battery to the original place?
Do I need to unwrap the vivo battery?
Could you tell me more?
Which circuit u are talking about to cut?
Which circuit u are talking about to cut. Can u be able to share some pic of it to understand more easily to us. Thanks in advance
ChiragAsawa said:
Which circuit u are talking about to cut. Can u be able to share some pic of it to understand more easily to us. Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok, so the battery pack is the same, not the control PCB attached to it, so you will have to de-solder and swap the PCB battery control circuits.
the lead closest to the ribbon connector on the stock Nextbit Battery is the positive ( so the opposite or backwards to the Vivo battery, the Vivo battery from cameron sino is labeled)
As you can see, it does "fit," and is currently a viable option.(the way i soldered the PCB to the Battery terminals it bends the ribbon in a funky way, but that's my fault, don't suck like me , look up proper de-soldering, PCB tinning w/ flux, and Soldering.)
note, the reason you can't just clip and attach the ribbon cable, is one has 3 connections, and the other 4(Robin,) the Control circuits are different.
i will update with any falures, etc.
also remember to fully charge you new battery before powering on the device again.
and check your volume controls, make a call to assure you can hear and be heard, and turn you alarms off and on again even if it says they're good. (had a bad morning the day after, but it was easily fixed.)
DO NOT CROSS THE STREAMS (good advice in any case )
Good Luck and happy modding.
Leftcatcher said:
ok, so the battery pack is the same, not the control PCB attached to it, so you will have to de-solder and swap the PCB battery control circuits.
the lead closest to the ribbon connector on the stock Nextbit Battery is the positive ( so the opposite or backwards to the Vivo battery, the Vivo battery from cameron sino is labeled)
As you can see, it does "fit," and is currently a viable option.(the way i soldered the PCB to the Battery terminals it bends the ribbon in a funky way, but that's my fault, don't suck like me , look up proper de-soldering, PCB tinning w/ flux, and Soldering.)
note, the reason you can't just clip and attach the ribbon cable, is one has 3 connections, and the other 4(Robin,) the Control circuits are different.
i will update with any falures, etc.
also remember to fully charge you new battery before powering on the device again.
and check your volume controls, make a call to assure you can hear and be heard, and turn you alarms off and on again even if it says they're good. (had a bad morning the day after, but it was easily fixed.)
DO NOT CROSS THE STREAMS (good advice in any case )
Good Luck and happy modding.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So its been a month, how is the battery holding up on robin?
Any more than normal heating of the battery/device while charging or while in use?
Also where did you get your battery from?
Thank you.
Leftcatcher said:
ok, so the battery pack is the same, not the control PCB attached to it, so you will have to de-solder and swap the PCB battery control circuits.
the lead closest to the ribbon connector on the stock Nextbit Battery is the positive ( so the opposite or backwards to the Vivo battery, the Vivo battery from cameron sino is labeled)
As you can see, it does "fit," and is currently a viable option.(the way i soldered the PCB to the Battery terminals it bends the ribbon in a funky way, but that's my fault, don't suck like me , look up proper de-soldering, PCB tinning w/ flux, and Soldering.)
note, the reason you can't just clip and attach the ribbon cable, is one has 3 connections, and the other 4(Robin,) the Control circuits are different.
i will update with any falures, etc.
also remember to fully charge you new battery before powering on the device again.
and check your volume controls, make a call to assure you can hear and be heard, and turn you alarms off and on again even if it says they're good. (had a bad morning the day after, but it was easily fixed.)
DO NOT CROSS THE STREAMS (good advice in any case )
Good Luck and happy modding.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, is working well after the battery swap??
Leftcatcher said:
ok, so the battery pack is the same, not the control PCB attached to it, so you will have to de-solder and swap the PCB battery control circuits.
the lead closest to the ribbon connector on the stock Nextbit Battery is the positive ( so the opposite or backwards to the Vivo battery, the Vivo battery from cameron sino is labeled)
As you can see, it does "fit," and is currently a viable option.(the way i soldered the PCB to the Battery terminals it bends the ribbon in a funky way, but that's my fault, don't suck like me , look up proper de-soldering, PCB tinning w/ flux, and Soldering.)
note, the reason you can't just clip and attach the ribbon cable, is one has 3 connections, and the other 4(Robin,) the Control circuits are different.
i will update with any falures, etc.
also remember to fully charge you new battery before powering on the device again.
and check your volume controls, make a call to assure you can hear and be heard, and turn you alarms off and on again even if it says they're good. (had a bad morning the day after, but it was easily fixed.)
DO NOT CROSS THE STREAMS (good advice in any case )
Good Luck and happy modding.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you make a video of it ?
/root said:
So its been a month, how is the battery holding up on robin?
Any more than normal heating of the battery/device while charging or while in use?
Also where did you get your battery from?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for taking so long to respond, i moved to a new state, took a new job, and have been working a lot (12-16hr days 6 days a week) ??
My Robin is doing great!
The battery has aclimated nicely, no excessive heat from the battery (the main board gets hot while streaming twich, sometimes but it's always done that so no more than usual, especially if i have a lot of other things going on in the background.)
I bought my battery from ebay(which i do not recommend,) but they sell it from other battery vendors too.
I would recommend finding a battery vendor state side if you're there and paying $3-4 more, otherwise expect 35 day shipping from China...
I found it just now on Amazon just by searching for "B-87 Battery" Here.
vagaba1 said:
So, is working well after the battery swap??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep.
Security Root said:
Could you make a video of it ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would need another Robin battery to show it.
And a camera...
Maybe.
Delete
AnierinB said:
I have an original OEM battery I pulled out of a broken robin. Was only a month old so I'm sure it's in great condition if anyone wants it for free. Just pm or telegram me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pm'ed you!
i need the batery
AnierinB said:
I have an original OEM battery I pulled out of a broken robin. Was only a month old so I'm sure it's in great condition if anyone wants it. Just pm or telegram me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hola, mi nombre es ignacio soy de argentina, me gustaria comprar la bateria, saludos
Thanks Leftcatcher
Thanks Leftcatcher for help, without the photos you posted I can't change the battery of my nextbit robin. I PURCHASED vivo x5 pro battery from my local shop which costed me 400rs. And it only took me 10 min to cut the circuit of stock battery and connect it to vivo's battery and it is working very good like an orignal battery. Once again thanks.???
desire999 said:
Thanks Leftcatcher for help, without the photos you posted I can't change the battery of my nextbit robin. I PURCHASED vivo x5 pro battery from my local shop which costed me 400rs. And it only took me 10 min to cut the circuit of stock battery and connect it to vivo's battery and it is working very good like an orignal battery. Once again thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh nice.
Can you share some photos? Thank you.
I've finally got my hands on a Vivo X5 Pro b-81 battery, but after the swap, the phone wont power on. I've tried leaving charging but as soon as I try to boot up the system, it reboots. If the cable is removed, instantly shuts down. On TWRP, it shows charging but everytime I remove the cable, it starts all over from 1%
Is there any trick to make it work? Thanks
I faced a similar issue for some time. I later found out that a major portion of the connectors need to be connected with a good amount of solder.
Re-soldering the battery should do the trick. Quick note: The battery was great for the first month and the performance now is slowly declining. Your mileage may wary.
Good Luck
itsundef said:
So the closest thing to Robin's battery is Vivo X5 Pro battery i bought mine of Amazon(IN), its a B-87 type battery.
Watch this youtube.com/watch?v=7hOuFjbT-E0 and this youtube.com/watch?v=BKGQ7vXnERI . {Search for Nextbit Robin Teardown on Youtube}
Open the robin carefully.
Remove the battery and cut the circuit on battery be careful we need this later
By this time you might have noticed that Vivo X5 Pro battery connector is on left side whereas robins is on right side plus is short and small
disassemble the Vivo X5 pro battery and cut circuit remember the polarities now take robins circuit, negative side on robin is next to ribbon.
Stick the circuit to battery or solder it.
Resemble it and it should be good as new
. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello! i think its super neat you were able to swap out the nxtbit battery. im unfortunately at the end of the road with my orig battery, phone wont even stay on unless plugged up. charging and even then it still shuts off on me sometimes. I love this phone and would rather try your method however, im so confused. i couldn't find any info on desoldering as i vaguely know what that it and Im not sure how you detached and attached the pcb, also what do you mean dont cross stream. i know its a long-shot bc you hvnt been active on here anymore but im desperate for any help.
thank you
tiffanyrhys said:
Hello! i think its super neat you were able to swap out the nxtbit battery. im unfortunately at the end of the road with my orig battery, phone wont even stay on unless plugged up. charging and even then it still shuts off on me sometimes. I love this phone and would rather try your method however, im so confused. i couldn't find any info on desoldering as i vaguely know what that it and Im not sure how you detached and attached the pcb, also what do you mean dont cross stream. i know its a long-shot bc you hvnt been active on here anymore but im desperate for any help.
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine stays in a box until I find a way to replace the battery. I have the same issue, it stays ON till its idle as soon as I start an app or a call it just shuts down. It works fine if its connected to power all the time LOL.
Did you get that battery OP suggested? I too am a little confused with OP's method. hope you get a response.
I read somewhere there are options on chinese websites for same battery size and specifications and also some are selling batteries for Robin too. I need to explore that, if you find them let me know I will do the same.
/root said:
Mine stays in a box until I find a way to replace the battery. I have the same issue, it stays ON till its idle as soon as I start an app or a call it just shuts down. It works fine if its connected to power all the time LOL.
Did you get that battery OP suggested? I too am a little confused with OP's method. hope you get a response.
I read somewhere there are options on chinese websites for same battery size and specifications and also some are selling batteries for Robin too. I need to explore that, if you find them let me know I will do the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi! I did order the battery he suggested and it comes tomorrow ?. i havent looked into getting the exact as i heard it's futile. I havent decided yet if ill try it myself or go to a cellphone repair shop but im worried they wont even try? i may hv no choice but to do it myself. its too bad we cant reach the OP
Does anyone know where they are located exactly on the redmi note 5?
Basically i have a used redmi note 5 global with charging problems and after exhausting everything i can think of software related i'm thinking its a faulty diode so i'm contemplating just cutting it out as shown here https://forum.xda-developers.com/redmi-note-3/help/rn3-pro-charging-charging-board-t3671977
Symptoms are as follows
- phone takes a charge when powered off but is tempremental and constantly disconnects every 15 seconds
- I can solve the above by manually flashing firmware files but then it still wont charge properly in the system OS where again its constantly disconnecting and has to be rebooted before it will accept a charge.
- If i flash a new rom / update the initial problem returns where it will only charge when powered off and i have to manually flash the firmware again.
drkdeath5000 said:
Does anyone know where they are located exactly on the redmi note 5?
Basically i have a used redmi note 5 global with charging problems and after exhausting everything i can think of software related i'm thinking its a faulty diode so i'm contemplating just cutting it out as shown here https://forum.xda-developers.com/redmi-note-3/help/rn3-pro-charging-charging-board-t3671977
Symptoms are as follows
- phone takes a charge when powered off but is tempremental and constantly disconnects every 15 seconds
- I can solve the above by manually flashing firmware files but then it still wont charge properly in the system OS where again its constantly disconnecting and has to be rebooted before it will accept a charge.
- If i flash a new rom / update the initial problem returns where it will only charge when powered off and i have to manually flash the firmware again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cutting The Zener Diode out is not a good idea. The Zener diode takes care of the voltage. The Diode works as voltage stabiliser for interference voltage.
Whats your next thread if you cut it?
"Help me, my batterie is just blown away? And i didnt know why!"
so search for the right diode and replace it.
Gerr1 said:
Cutting The Zener Diode out is not a good idea. The Zener diode takes care of the voltage. The Diode works as voltage stabiliser for interference voltage.
Whats your next thread if you cut it?
"Help me, my batterie is just blown away? And i didnt know why!"
so search for the right diode and replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Obviously it would be ideal to replace but have you seen how small the diode is and the circuitry surrounding it? Its no easy task to replace and would require specialists tools and expertise none of which i have.
If you have a method for replacing the diode with a bog standard 60watt iron and heat gun then i'm all ears.
Besides if it blows up i'm really not that bothered. It was a cheap device to fix up for a family member and now that i've established its 99.999% hardware related i've really got nothing to lose.
drkdeath5000 said:
Obviously it would be ideal to replace but have you seen how small the diode is and the circuitry surrounding it? Its no easy task to replace and would require specialists tools and expertise none of which i have.
If you have a method for replacing the diode with a bog standard 60watt iron and heat gun then i'm all ears.
Besides if it blows up i'm really not that bothered. It was a cheap device to fix up for a family member and now that i've established its 99.999% hardware related i've really got nothing to lose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh no, you have something to loose, your or somebodies live. You wrote you fix it for a family member, what is if the member loads the battery over night and than the battery expload? The house stays in fire and you loose someones live. Yust my 2 cents.
If you dont have the equipment, search for a tinny repair store. That shouldnt cost much and of course they found the Diode very quick.
Gerr1 said:
Oh no, you have something to loose, your or somebodies live. You wrote you fix it for a family member, what is if the member loads the battery over night and than the battery expload? The house stays in fire and you loose someones live. Yust my 2 cents.
If you dont have the equipment, search for a tinny repair store. That shouldnt cost much and of course they found the Diode very quick.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're right in that sense but really who charges overnight isnt that a risk in itself diode or not... i dont know about others but we were brought up never to leave devices unattended and certainly not overnight.
My understanding was the zener diode in the upper board is more for high amperage chargers anyway so even if it was cut out the bottom one would still suffice for low amp chargers up to 5v.
Besides i'm not even sure if its possible to replace the diode, i cant think of anyone that would have the capability of doing such a job. I know for a fact that Xiaomi wont touch them i read over on the Xiaomi forums that they just replaced the entire board in the event of a diode failure which is no doubt costly and i'm not willing to spend on a device that i'm unsure of.
If it works after being cut-out then yes maybe but as it stands i wouldnt be willing to spend in excess of £70 when there is no guarantee of it even fixing the issue.
drkdeath5000 said:
You're right in that sense but really who charges overnight isnt that a risk in itself diode or not... i dont know about others but we were brought up never to leave devices unattended and certainly not overnight.
My understanding was the zener diode in the upper board is more for high amperage chargers anyway so even if it was cut out the bottom one would still suffice for low amp chargers up to 5v.
Besides i'm not even sure if its possible to replace the diode, i cant think of anyone that would have the capability of doing such a job. I know for a fact that Xiaomi wont touch them i read over on the Xiaomi forums that they just replaced the entire board in the event of a diode failure which is no doubt costly and i'm not willing to spend on a device that i'm unsure of.
If it works after being cut-out then yes maybe but as it stands i wouldnt be willing to spend in excess of £70 when there is no guarantee of it even fixing the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand you, i wouldnt spend also 70 pounds for the repair of a zener diode. Search for a tinny repair store in your location, most eletronic repair stores have the right zener smd and equipment to fix it for you. We are talking about costs 2 beers and 5 pounds.
The zener diode has nothing to do with the ampere, its a diode to stabilise the voltage, if your charger loads with 13 or 14 volt, the diode cuts it down to the right voltage. So take care, overvolting destroys everything in your phone.
btw, drkDEATH is the right nick for your fix method
Okay, hello XDA Forums peoples! Ive been lurking here for like a decade. I feel bad for bothering you nice people, but now I'm at my wits end with this phone.
Okay, so, long story short:
Z Fold 3, let it run the One U.I. 4 update, bricked the whole phone, wouldnt come back on. This happens a week away from being out of warranty. So i get samsung to agree to let Asurion/uBreakiFix repair it (I almost always fix my own electronics, I hate Asurion, I've had problems dealing with them before, but its free so whatever). Well they get it working, i asked what they did and they were basically like 'uhhh idk'. I assume it was just an 'unplug the battery and plug it back in' kind of thing.
Anyways fast forward to a couple months ago. Im walking along the creek, i always keep my phone in my backpack for safety. Zipper on my backpack comes open some, phone falls out and directly into the water for about 3-5 seconds. Goes black within 15 minutes. Alright, so it seems like maybe the boys who worked on this didnt seal it back properly. Whatever.
I let it dry for about 4 or 5 days. Comes back on, everything works except the front screen's digitizer(which is cool for me, because the inside screen still works fine) and its reporting too cold to charge, so now once the battery runs out i have a new foldable brick! Yay! I check the battery temperature thats reported in settings and its completely fine. I hit it with a hair dryer for like 5 minutes to try and trip the thermometer, and nothing happens.
I tried some cheap shots in the dark, i replace the USB charging board, i replace the wireless charging coil, both of which have thermistors on other older samsung phones, so i figured it was a decent guess. Still too cold to charge.
So I find a schematic, or not exactly a schematic, but like a boardview, i guess. So at least i know where the thermistors are to check them. Theres about 10 thermistors on the main and sub boards. 5 of which are covered by metal shielding which i am just terrified of trying to remove, mainly because i havent done it before. So i check the other half.
The thermistors used in these phones are like inverse, so they have less resistance for higher temps and more resistance for lower temps. If one of them is dead, it will have like "maximum resistance", right? Which would report the coldest possible temperature, right? So that all makes sense, to me at least.
The 5 i can get to with my meter to check, they seem to work completely fine. From what research ive done they seem to be like 100k resistors when measured at ~70 degrees f, and i can watch the resistance go up and down when its cooled or heated past that temperature. Okay, perfect. That all checks out.
Because the other ones are under some metal shielding, i assume theyre most likely fine because any water would have a harder time getting in there. So i skip to the most expensive option so far: i buy two replacement batteries. The schematics do not include the battery, so i dont know where the thermistors are on my current batteries to check them, if that was the problem.
Well, batteries came yesterday, i pop them in, still too cold to charge. I've already ran the phone dead checking it, so i cant do any further diagnostics with the phone on. And now the most i get is a Yield sign with a thermometer in it when i plug it in.
Okay, so... Idk?? This problem is starting to get over my head. What do y'all think? It seems like my options are becoming more limited and expensive.
I can try and put a big blob of solder on the top of the shielding and pull it off to check the remaining thermistors, which seems to be how people remove those things. I also have have hot air at my disposal, which is always risky with tiny things because too high airspeed might blow components away on the board and then i'll probably cry.
It could just be a connector somewhere on some flex cable? Maybe? I mean like maybe what if one of them is for reporting temperature, and water corrosion is stopping it from sending a signal through???
Im fine with doing whatever, but i just want a charged battery first so i can recover my data before i do anything that drastic. I mean, back in the day they had 4 big pads on a removable battery. You could buy a universal samsung battery charger or rig a USB cable to charge it, but I have literally no idea what to do here. Does anyone know of some specialized battery charger that will connect to these flex cables?? That would be a gigantic help right now. Or if i knew where to get a Z Fold 3 just to pop it open and charge my battery with? Or maybe just sit there for 2 hours holding two wires to the positive and negative pins?!??!?? I dont know. Someone throw ideas at me, please!
Might be worth buying a bench power supply and either injecting voltage through the phone or connecting it to the cells to trickle charge them back up? Im not an expert it these just throwing ideas