Develop Bugs

Battery FAST drain

I've done the battery cycle trick several times (discharge all the way to 0 and then recharge fully to 100), but still having same problem. Even at 100% the battery goes back to critical low in an hour or less. It seems to be the worst when playing games, especially Clash of Clans. That app is more like 30 minutes to dead. If I'm using one of my e-readers, it will stay up for several hours.
Will a new battery fix this or is there something else going on? For example,one thought i had is the onboard battery monitor. Maybe its falsely reporting 100% when battery doesnt have that much in it. Just dont want to mess with wasting the money if a new battery isn't going to get me anywhere. Thanks!
~Vol

Vol4Ever said:
I've done the battery cycle trick several times (discharge all the way to 0 and then recharge fully to 100), but still having same problem. Even at 100% the battery goes back to critical low in an hour or less. It seems to be the worst when playing games, especially Clash of Clans. That app is more like 30 minutes to dead. If I'm using one of my e-readers, it will stay up for several hours.
Will a new battery fix this or is there something else going on? For example,one thought i had is the onboard battery monitor. Maybe its falsely reporting 100% when battery doesnt have that much in it. Just dont want to mess with wasting the money if a new battery isn't going to get me anywhere. Thanks!
~Vol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Clash of clan is the biggest battery drainer like candy crush. With all android platforms.

It drains enough to take a 100% tablet to dead in a half hour or less? Wow.
But that being said, it still seems the battery is draining way faster than it used to with only general day-to-day use.

Similar issue
If it's the same issue as mine a new battery will not help... I've tried.
i am still trying desperately to find a solution. Basically it's like the gauge is wrong. As a simple test I'll charge it up to 100% and start playing a very long youtube video of whatever. After the first 30 minutes it will be down to 90% which I would consider normal. Then over the next 30 minutes it will rapidly drop to 5%. Then the screen dims and it will continue to play for another 3 hours though i can't really see it.
After it dies completely I'll reboot and it'll show me 25% again, but then quickly drops back to 5, dim, and continue playing for another hour or so.
So I can only get about an hour of useful time on this thing.
As stated I tried a new battery to no avail. I've also tried to "recalibrate" using the method you described. As a last resort I rooted and deleted the batterystats.bin file (even though this apparently does nothing).
Now I'm just trying to find a way to override the screen dimming at 5%. I've tried rootdim and a few others but nothing seems to able to override the OS setting on this tablet.
If anyone has any other ideas please please please let me know.

RangerPivot said:
i am still trying desperately to find a solution. Basically it's like the gauge is wrong. As a simple test I'll charge it up to 100% and start playing a very long youtube video of whatever. After the first 30 minutes it will be down to 90% which I would consider normal. Then over the next 30 minutes it will rapidly drop to 5%. Then the screen dims and it will continue to play for another 3 hours though i can't really see .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a common problem of Galaxy Samsung tablets: cracked solders at battery connector.
Quick test to see if you have a badly loose battery connector: slap hard on the back cover with your hand, it won't break the LCD but your tablet will shut down immediately.
If it's the case, re solder the battery connector will fix the problem. Battery's capacity fluctuation is an obvious sign of loose battery connector.

Beut said:
This is a common problem of Galaxy Samsung tablets: cracked solders at battery connector.
Quick test to see if you have a badly loose battery connector: slap hard on the back cover with your hand, it won't break the LCD but your tablet will shut down immediately.
If it's the case, re solder the battery connector will fix the problem. Battery's capacity fluctuation is an obvious sign of loose battery connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. I'll give it a shot.

Battery connector should be take care first before consider relaceing battery. Battery fluctuation is not a problem from itself but its connector.

Okay. Well I don't think there's any way I can resolder that connector. Damn thing is tiny! I can see 6 solder points but they are way too close together.
As an interim attempt I rolled up a piece of electrical tape and stuck it on top of the connector to apply a bit of pressure. Will see what happens.

is there any step by step how to do it?

RangerPivot said:
Okay. Well I don't think there's any way I can resolder that connector. Damn thing is tiny! I can see 6 solder points but they are way too close together.
As an interim attempt I rolled up a piece of electrical tape and stuck it on top of the connector to apply a bit of pressure. Will see what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Electrical tape won't work with solder joints, you can make a temporary fix: lifting the mainboad with a piece of paper under the battery connector; this way may apply presure directly via rear cover. You need a small tip and magnified glass to re solder or ask someone for help or paying a repair shop. It takes less than 5 minutes
and I believe they can not charge over $30 for 5 minutes re work.
---------- Post added at 05:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:25 AM ----------
5oo said:
is there any step by step how to do it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All you need to do: remove the back cover and brings the tablet to a repair shop for re work. Battery is not needed to remove, just disconnect the battery
cable from connector; that's enough space for re work and the heat cannot damage battery's cables.
Don't try yourself if you're not familiar with soldering, especially these six pins are very small and close to other components.
This is the connector needed to re solder after removing the battery
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And watch this video how to remove the back cover
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7PP4tCJGAQ

Beut said:
Electrical tape won't work with solder joints, you need a small tip and magnified glass to re solder or ask someone for help or paying a repair shop. It takes less than 5 minutes
and I believe they can not charge over $30 for 5 minutes re work.
---------- Post added at 05:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:25 AM ----------
All you need to do: remove the back cover and brings the tablet to a repair shop for re work. Battery is not needed to remove, just disconnect the battery
cable from connector; that's enough space for re work and the heat cannot damage battery's cables.
Don't try yourself if you're not familiar with soldering, especially these six pins are very small and close to other components.
This is the connector needed to re solder after removing the battery
And watch this video how to remove the back cover
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7PP4tCJGAQ
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
where is exactly that part where has to be soldered?
well before i replaced battery if i play any game it would go from 100% to 5% like in 30 mins now is like 2 hours most?
I replaced battery thought that woud help? then i rooted and change some ROMS it would help it for a while and it dropped again...
thank you

5oo said:
where is exactly that part where has to be soldered?
well before i replaced battery if i play any game it would go from 100% to 5% like in 30 mins now is like 2 hours most?
I replaced battery thought that woud help? then i rooted and change some ROMS it would help it for a while and it dropped again...
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery connector is the one that you disconnect the battery from mainboard. The solder joints of six pins are needed to re solder.
This one is similar to your tablet because I don't have exactly picture of an open tablet: the black connector in this picture is the battery connector.

Here's a picture of the the battery connector in the note 10 2014 looking top down towards the battery bin.
In the picture the connections "look" okay. nothing obvious but this is a zoomed camera phone pic. Anyway, I'll see if I can find a shop willing to resolder the joints.

The solder joints looks normal with your eyes but may not under microsope. It doesn't hurt to resolder, add as much solders as possible to secure it to main board.
One test to verify if it's bad, it may or may not work. When battery drops, take note of its reading then shut down. With the rear cover removed, hold or press the battery connector with your fingers or hand and turns it on, take note of the battery reading. If the battery level goes up when pressing the connector with your hand, you find the culprit of your problem.
One case I did , battery level went from 7% to 43% after re soldering the battery connector.

Oh wow thanks guys tomorrow I will open note see how is it and then will find a local store, sometimes if I play game I would have 80%play for 30 mins to 50% and then suddenly drop to 20% within few mins

5oo said:
Oh wow thanks guys tomorrow I will open note see how is it and then will find a local store, sometimes if I play game I would have 80%play for 30 mins to 50% and then suddenly drop to 20% within few mins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Trust me, I already fixed some problems like yours for friends. You replaced new battery but it's the same problem, the only source is connector.
This is not an opinion but personal experiences.

This is old topic, however I would like to wrote for those of you who have the problem with incorrect battery reading, extremely fast battery drain, battery charge level drop....
It is indeed cracked soldering joints of battery connector !
Damn, I have ecountered all above problems for almost one month, so I replaced the battery, but that didn't fix the problem.
Until the day when I wanted to disconnect the battery to do "battery calibration"
And then I saw that the connector is slightly lifted up when I started unplug the battery.
When I looked to the solder joints with the magnifying glass, I saw that they are cracked.
Fortunately, I have the soldering iron with very small tips, so I applied some amount of flux to connector pins and re soldered them.
The problem is fixed ! The tablet is working again, as before. With the battery drain better 8 an 10% per hour, when browsing the Web, watching youtube and so on.
Don't forget to unplug your battery first. And when you will do it, slightly press on battery connector which is soldered to PCB, so you will not tear it appart from the PCB.
Best regards,
Khamzat

I had the same problem for about 2 weeks and I was on the very edge of ordering a new battery. Fortunately I found this thread before doing so and re soldering the battery connector did fix my tablet
Best regards,
Lars

The problem with this tablet is the delicate back plate. All pressure (except when you touch the stiffer rim areas) is transferred to the battery, the metal shields of the pcb and other components touching the back, as maybe the battery plug. This should also lead to the loose display cable syndrome. A case with its own stiff backside will then eliminate such trouble(i have case and none of these problems).
I haven't yet taken a close look at the pics or the actual inside of my Note, but if Samsung was aware of this, there may be some (too small and few) spacers to absorb pressure, but then it would be transferred to the back shield of the display unit, also not recommendable...

heads up, top tip

Samsung Tab S 8.4, bought about 3 months ago in uk from john lewis.
I had kitkat and rooted to be able to disable bloat etc to try and increase the battery life. Battery was still draining much faster than other devices, but in accordande to what a lot of people were reporting. Got used to charging it up every day.
So I got the official lollipop update, using kies, and left as stock was seeing same ballpark battery draining. Before I could get around to modifying the lollipop build the tablet started restarting. At first this was when the battery level would drop below 50% but quickly this turned into repeating boot loops. I was careful to try and be gentle with it in case the battery connection was loose, but the boot loops got quicker. In the end it would not stay on.
Here is how I fixed it. Tried factory reset, no good. But at least knew it wasnt software as had default lollipop image, plus it worked find when connected to the charger. So I didint have time to send it in to samsung for repair as due to travel, so used you tube help to open the cover and simply removed and disconnected the battery, then replaced it. Note that the battery is lightly glued in, so needs some light force to peel it out of the cavity - thats not shown on you tube.
Anyway, checked it didnt boot loop, and it was stable, so charged it up fully. Guess what? I have a much much slower draining battery now. I have manually reloaded my apps from play store (not a kies restore) and performance is the same ie the slower than original battery drain.
I don't know if they modified something between lollipop and kitkat that needed to see a hard reset to trigger or if its something peculiar to the battery requiring to be disconnected independent of the operating system, but just wanted to share and report here as this forum has been so helpful to me.
I am in UK (for lollipop version)

Refitting the battery might make the tablet think it is getting an new battery so it is forced to do an re-calibrate.
Yesterday a owner said when he took is S to a Samsung service centre, he was told the battery connectors were fault, and they replaced it with a more heavy duty version.
Also he was told upgrading to lollipop can cause problems, though i don't see how that is possible.
John.

Tinderbox (UK) said:
Refitting the battery might make the tablet think it is getting an new battery so it is forced to do an re-calibrate.
Yesterday a owner said when he took is S to a Samsung service centre, he was told the battery connectors were fault, and they replaced it with a more heavy duty version.
Also he was told upgrading to lollipop can cause problems, though i don't see how that is possible.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Makes sense on battery recalibration from disconnect, but would that affect the lower drainage rate? Maybe lollipop is better optimized for the 8.4?
I just now turned on power saving, where it was on before with kitkat. Still much more time on standard lollipop than kitkat here. Not going to bother debloating it...

Yesterday and today, owners of the 8.4" have reported problems with the battery connector, on repair Samsung replaces the original with an more heavy duty version, some people recommend soldering the battery directly to the motherboard, (not me)
John.

Tinderbox (UK) said:
Yesterday and today, owners of the 8.4" have reported problems with the battery connector, on repair Samsung replaces the original with an more heavy duty version, some people recommend soldering the battery directly to the motherboard, (not me)
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing is more heavy duty battery connector, they all are the same. Repair center just do a re solder job as this battery connector is prone to crack in most of Samsung tablets.
Read all Samsung tablets, different models and sizes, they all have the same problem but most average users are not able to see it, they need microscope at least at 20X to 40X to see the cracks. Magnified glass at 10X won't be able to see this kind of crack of solder joints.

Well i suppose the owner was lied too by Samsung, as he says in the link below that they installed an thicker connector.
She confirmed that there is indeed a problem for tab S battery connector that comes out of the box when you purchase tab S. The connector is too thin and is very easy to fail even from slightly touching the screen. So she took my tab s for an hour, replaced the battery connector with a new one which she claimed to be thicker, and reinstalled the May lollipop update. Since then I have never had any problem, and my battery performance is very satisfying.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=61977890&postcount=509
John.
Beut said:
Nothing is more heavy duty battery connector, they all are the same. Repair center just do a re solder job as this battery connector is prone to crack in most of Samsung tablets.
Read all Samsung tablets, different models and sizes, they all have the same problem but most average users are not able to see it, they need microscope at least at 20X to 40X to see the cracks. Magnified glass at 10X won't be able to see this kind of crack of solder joints.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

5310 said:
Here is how I fixed it. Tried factory reset, no good. But at least knew it wasnt software as had default lollipop image, plus it worked find when connected to the charger. So I didint have time to send it in to samsung for repair as due to travel, so used you tube help to open the cover and simply removed and disconnected the battery, then replaced it. Note that the battery is lightly glued in, so needs some light force to peel it out of the cavity - thats not shown on you tube.
Anyway, checked it didnt boot loop, and it was stable, so charged it up fully. Guess what? I have a much much slower draining battery now. I have manually reloaded my apps from play store (not a kies restore) and performance is the same ie the slower than original battery drain.
I am in UK (for lollipop version)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A permanent fix : re solder the battery connector.
A temporary fix : put a thick piece of paper on top of the battery connector, secure it with a tape. A direct pressure on the back cover will temporary close the gaps of cracked solders. This temporary fix only works with a not badly cracked battery connector. A badly cracked one is the connector that you can lift it off the main board easily or tap hard on the back cover, your tablet shuts down immediately.

I tend to agree, it's unlikely they did anything but resolder. If it's happened on previous devices why would they still be using the same connector if they had a beefed up version?
In any case the connector is non mobile so it makes no difference as long as its securely soldered it should be fine.
There are much flimsier components and connectors in devices nowadays that don't give issue.

The connector to the circuit board looked beefy enough and it didn't feel loose in any way....its the female socket soldered onto the circuit board that you all are describing?
I'll keep an eye out of course, but so far same great performance, much better than when out of the box new

5310 said:
The connector to the circuit board looked beefy enough and it didn't feel loose in any way....its the female socket soldered onto the circuit board that you all are describing?
I'll keep an eye out of course, but so far same great performance, much better than when out of the box new
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the connector I'm talking about, not exactly, but common in Samsung tablets. Some look perfect from the top but it moves slightly if pushing. I'm already to re solder so I'm not afraid to push or lift it from main board to test its solder joints. Most of erratically behaviors related to power such as shut down, auto restart, battery capacity fluctuation, quick discharge, I know most come from this cracked connector and successful to fix the problem by re solder it.
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Most of this problem is seen in Samsung tablets which have battery connector at the center of the tablet, the bigger the tablet, the more likely it has this problem like 10 inches or bigger. Samsung tablets are so simple in assembly, like the Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 inches, the main board has only 3 screws to hold it to the frame. If putting a finger on the battery connector, you can feel it move up and down easily on top of the LCD.

I have the same issue, this red circled chip keeps on heating, even when I turn it off. I suspect this might have something to do with my battery draining... can anyone help?
Imgur.com/3NLqmh5

How fast is your battery draining when your tablet is in sleep mode overnight.
John.
ozaq1 said:
I have the same issue, this red circled chip keeps on heating, even when I turn it off. I suspect this might have something to do with my battery draining... can anyone help?
Imgur.com/3NLqmh5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Tinderbox (UK) said:
How fast is your battery draining when your tablet is in sleep mode overnight.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Measured mulltiple ttimes. 5% approx. Very consistent drain. Even when shut off. (Completely off)
Drain only stops when i remove battery from mobo.

Your battery should take months to become empty when your tablet is completely turned off, Sorry but It sound like you have a fault on your motherboard.
John.
ozaq1 said:
Measured mulltiple ttimes. 5% approx. Very consistent drain. Even when shut off. (Completely off)
Drain only stops when i remove battery from mobo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Hahahah. Fml.
Maybe its a problem with the battery connector?
More diagnostic info: once i disconnect the battery from the motherboard, and reconnect, the tablet will not turn on until i plug in the wall charger. Once i plug it in, the tablet turns on fine.
Did you have a look at the circled chip? Any idea what that is?
---------- Post added at 09:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:11 PM ----------
Tinderbox (UK) said:
Your battery should take months to become empty when your tablet is completely turned off, Sorry but It sound like you have a fault on your motherboard.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahahah. Fml.*
Maybe its a problem with the battery connector?
More diagnostic info: once i disconnect the battery from the motherboard, and reconnect, the tablet will not turn on until i plug in the wall charger. Once i plug it in, the tablet turns on fine.
Did you have a look at the circled chip? Any idea what that is?

I google for any tear-downs of Samsung tablets, but none of them identify the shielded component you circled, but as it`s so close to the battery connector it could be a power management chip, but that is a guess.
John.
ozaq1 said:
Hahahah. Fml.
Maybe its a problem with the battery connector?
More diagnostic info: once i disconnect the battery from the motherboard, and reconnect, the tablet will not turn on until i plug in the wall charger. Once i plug it in, the tablet turns on fine.
Did you have a look at the circled chip? Any idea what that is?
---------- Post added at 09:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:11 PM ----------
Hahahah. Fml.*
Maybe its a problem with the battery connector?
More diagnostic info: once i disconnect the battery from the motherboard, and reconnect, the tablet will not turn on until i plug in the wall charger. Once i plug it in, the tablet turns on fine.
Did you have a look at the circled chip? Any idea what that is?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------
To rule out the battery connector you could have the battery soldered direct to the motherboard.
John.

Tinderbox (UK) said:
I google for any tear-downs of Samsung tablets, but none of them identify the shielded component you circled, but as it`s so close to the battery connector it could be a power management chip, but that is a guess.
John.
---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------
To rule out the battery connector you could have the battery soldered direct to the motherboard.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, ill try to have a new connector soldered. Appreciate you trying to help.

But you saying your tablet will not boot without the USB power adapter connected, indicates a power problem, likely a battery connection or that chip that you said was warm even when the tablet is turned off.
All you can do is start with the easiest to fix, which is the battery connector.
John

ozaq1 said:
Thanks, ill try to have a new connector soldered. Appreciate you trying to help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should do one by one to solve a problem with many unknowns: battery connector, battery, or main board.
The first priority is to re solder the battery connector to see any improvement. You will confuse yourselves and others when trying to figure out many things at the same time. The key in troubleshooting is elimination method: solve each unknown one at a time. You cannot find any component of main board on the market, don't think about new battery connector because you'll never find one, but new one is not necessary as re solder is sufficient to solve battery quick discharge problem.

I was the one who recommended to solder tha battery directly to the board. I was having issues with kitkat when i bought my tab last year. Battery drains so much that it will shut itself off. But when you reboot. It will go back to at least 40%. Resetting the battery by unplugging-plugging the battery to the board seems to resolve the issue that i got bored doing it thats why i slder the battery terminals to the board. after upgrading to lollipop. I was able to drain use my phone up to 1%. Battery drain overnight in idle is 1-2%. Im a heavy user, and it lasts me 1 and a half days
Battery soldering is not for the faint hearted. I only recommend it to those who knew what they're doing as those terminals are so small that one mistake could short your board and fry it instantly

screen flicker, screen freezes, and random restarts

I have an Tab S 8.4 LTE. Since upgrading to stock android 5.0.1 (from Sammobile), I have been getting screen flickering, screen freezes, and also random shutdown/restarts. None of that happened on 4.4.2, which the device came with. I've tried the following to correct the problems, with no luck: reinstall 5.0.1, cache wipe from recovery, factory data reset. Is my problem common? Is there a solution? Should I go back to 4.4.2?

A lot of problems you have mentioned is supposedly caused by an faulty/loose battery connector on the 8.4" , a lot of people say it started after upgrading to lollipop which is still not confirmed.
You can try the fix in the link below, but if it is a faulty battery connector a repair is your only real remedy to you problem.
This problem is quite common, have search you might find a more help.
http://www.problogbooster.com/2014/06/on-screen-display-flickering-error-android-xda.html
John.
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Tinderbox (UK) said:
A lot of problems you have mentioned is supposedly caused by an faulty/loose battery connector on the 8.4" , a lot of people say it started after upgrading to lollipop which is still not confirmed.
You can try the fix in the link below, but if it is a faulty battery connector a repair is your only real remedy to you problem.
This problem is quite common, have search you might find a more help.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had this problem. Service center in Poland (CCS) replaced screen and repaired motherboard.
Video on youtube that shows the problem :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iBDVirN_XM

corvus.corax said:
I have an Tab S 8.4 LTE. Since upgrading to stock android 5.0.1 (from Sammobile), I have been getting screen flickering, screen freezes, and also random shutdown/restarts. None of that happened on 4.4.2, which the device came with. I've tried the following to correct the problems, with no luck: reinstall 5.0.1, cache wipe from recovery, factory data reset. Is my problem common? Is there a solution? Should I go back to 4.4.2?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a common problem of Samsung tablet, battery connector is prone to crack: flickering screen, random shutdown/restart, quick discharge, battery capacity fluctuation.
If you look at Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 threats, flickering problem is the same as this model. However, the fix is simple: re solder the battery connector. Go to a repair shop or anyone knows how to re work for assistance , the work takes only under 5 minutes. No need to remove the main board, just disconnect battery cable and do the re work of battery connector's solder joints.
This battery connector is not exactly but similar to yours:

In fact, it did start after the upgrade to Lollipop, so I want to say that, for me, that is confirmed. It never happened prior to that. Nevertheless, it could be a pre-Lollipop problem. Since the unit is still in warranty, I will try to explain the problem to Samsung here. They are usually pretty good about it when I get the chance to talk with a repair tech.

Try this fix in the thread below, it worked foe an Tab S owner the other day with screen flickering.
http://www.problogbooster.com/2014/06/on-screen-display-flickering-error-android-xda.html
John.
corvus.corax said:
In fact, it did start after the upgrade to Lollipop, so I want to say that, for me, that is confirmed. It never happened prior to that. Nevertheless, it could be a pre-Lollipop problem. Since the unit is still in warranty, I will try to explain the problem to Samsung here. They are usually pretty good about it when I get the chance to talk with a repair tech.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Tinderbox (UK) said:
Try this fix in the thread below, it worked foe an Tab S owner the other day with screen flickering.
http://www.problogbooster.com/2014/06/on-screen-display-flickering-error-android-xda.html
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I'll give that a try. It is worth noting that since I put 5.0.1 on my S4, it's been running smoothly.

Sefto said:
I had this problem. Service center in Poland (CCS) replaced screen and repaired motherboard.
Video on youtube that shows the problem :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iBDVirN_XM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be aware that some depot techs are lack of technical skills to troubleshoot correctly, this one is a typical one.
When replacing new screen and motherboard, this guy virtually gave you a new tablet.

Beut said:
Be aware that some depot techs are lack of technical skills to troubleshoot correctly, this one is a typical one.
When replacing new screen and motherboard, this guy virtually gave you a new tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Repaired motherboard But I don't know what exactly they did

Well, I followed the instructions to force GPU screen renderiing and for about a day, it seemed to fix the flicker/restart problem. Then, boom, it came back. So it must be a hardware issue. Off to Samsung I go.

I wonder how hot the cpu gets when the screen starts to flicker, you can download free cpu temp apps from Google Store
John.

I took the tab s to Samsung and they found it was a battery problem. They replaced the battery and all seems well after a week. Now my question is, if I use my S4 charger, which has a little lower output than the tab's charger, will that cause any problem to the battery, beyond slower charging?

Slower charging as you said will most likely problem, use the free app below to check you charging rate, look at the average ma, and press refresh a few time, on the pro version you do not have to press refresh.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.abmantis.galaxychargingcurrent.free&hl=en
John.
corvus.corax said:
I took the tab s to Samsung and they found it was a battery problem. They replaced the battery and all seems well after a week. Now my question is, if I use my S4 charger, which has a little lower output than the tab's charger, will that cause any problem to the battery, beyond slower charging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

That's PERFECTLY WORKS...

vinayak.etx said:
That's PERFECTLY WORKS...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wonder what did you do to fix the problem ?

Soldering worked.
I had the screen flickering problem and also random reboots on Galaxy Tab Pro 12.2 (SM-T900) and figured out that it is probably to do with the battery connector based on this post and an other post. When I opened the back cover and touched the battery connector, it just came out from its position. Samsung did a very poor job in designing this very important component which is the lifeline of the device.
However, following your advice, I first hesitated to solder it myself. I called up a repair guy and explained him that I need soldering the battery connector and he prompted $65 as the cost for it. So I decided to give a shot myself. I tried my hand at it and was able to get it done.
IMPORTANT: The connector ends are very very small and so you would need a soldering iron having a pointed tip. All you would need is to clean the battery connector ends with a hair brush and apply a very thin coating of soldering flux and have the solder lead on the pointed tip. The points on the circuit board are very close to couple of IC's and so be very careful not to touch them at all. Also, the plastic used in the battery connector component is not a good quality plastic and so be very careful in handling it.
Once the battery connector is soldered, I haven't seen any flickering so far and random reboots are gone. So far so good. I shall update this post if I see any deviation or any other update relevant with this issue.
Thank you @Beut for your post and providing insight about the problem.
Beut said:
This is a common problem of Samsung tablet, battery connector is prone to crack: flickering screen, random shutdown/restart, quick discharge, battery capacity fluctuation.
If you look at Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 threats, flickering problem is the same as this model. However, the fix is simple: re solder the battery connector. Go to a repair shop or anyone knows how to re work for assistance , the work takes only under 5 minutes. No need to remove the main board, just disconnect battery cable and do the re work of battery connector's solder joints.
This battery connector is not exactly but similar to yours:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Don't forget that a loose white battery connector also a factor of flickering, usually when disconnected it many times, this white connector may not make good contact with pins of black battery connector. I had one that black battery connector already resoldered but it still flickered at 70% batttery. I did a simple fix by pushing the opening tip closer. Many good batteries were wasted because most users don't know this simple trick, just disconnect and connect battery may fix auto reboot problem and don't know why.
This is what it looks like when a cable removed from the connector:
This is a bad contact, pin sits in the middle of opening of cable clip.
This is the adjustment to make the opening closer:
How to do it with a thin knife:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PU0OoZSbma8&feature=youtu.be
Then, this is a good contact
After the fix of male and female battery connectors ( black and white ), I guarantee that flickering, freeze, auto restart, auto shutdown problems will not return, unless you have a bad battery.

Beut said:
This is a common problem of Samsung tablet, battery connector is prone to crack: flickering screen, random shutdown/restart, quick discharge, battery capacity fluctuation.
If you look at Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 threats, flickering problem is the same as this model. However, the fix is simple: re solder the battery connector. Go to a repair shop or anyone knows how to re work for assistance , the work takes only under 5 minutes. No need to remove the main board, just disconnect battery cable and do the re work of battery connector's solder joints.
This battery connector is not exactly but similar to yours:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi @Beut,
I followed your post and fixed my tab by soldering the battery connector as you mentioned.
Do you happen to know what's the type of battery connector is it? I mean, if I want to buy that connector online, what should I be looking for?
Thanks.
Uresh
replied using Tapatalk

uresh.kuruhuri said:
Hi @Beut,
I followed your post and fixed my tab by soldering the battery connector as you mentioned.
Do you happen to know what's the type of battery connector is it? I mean, if I want to buy that connector online, what should I be looking for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think you can find it online. Re solder is sufficient, no need to replace a new one.
But why you need a new connector ? Broken or damaged ? If you need one I may help you where to find it, but change this connector is not simple as re solder unless you know how and have right equipment like hot air gun, hot plate ...etc....

in a worst case scenario.
Beut said:
I don't think you can find it online. Re solder is sufficient, no need to replace a new one.
But why you need a new connector ? Broken or damaged ? If you need one I may help you where to find it, but change this connector is not simple as re solder unless you know how and have right equipment like hot air gun, hot plate ...etc....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As of now, things are fine. The tablet is working fine even on longer duration of usage like playing videos on YouTube app continuously or video calls. The battery charge is lasting long besides there is no overheating like it happened before when the connector was loose. Thanks again.
However, when the connector got detached earlier, I observed that the plastic used to design that component is of pretty cheap quality and I doubted if it would stand even before I soldered. Anyways, I managed to solder that without breaking/damaging it. My fear is that the plastic base on which the (metal) connector components were placed in side-by-side fashion would disintegrate if when the plastic base gets damaged and that is my worry. I hope you understood my point.
Also, I would appreciate if you point me to any links that would explain a little more about these components.

Q. Anybody have instructions or tips for replacing the usb/charging port?

Hello all. I need to replace the micro usb/charging port and battery on my p-600 in the near future. The usb/charging port had a bit of an accident a few weeks ago and charging it is now extremely tricky, replacing the charge port is my only option. I've already removed the rear cover to take a peek at what I was up against and it looks pretty straight forward. But looks can be decieving and my searches for instructions on how to replace the charge port have turned up nothing.
Has anybody relpaced theirs? Any tips? Is it as easy as it looks or is there something I should be aware of. Obviously I don't want to damage my tablet, its a great tablet it just needs its tired 2.5 year old battery & broken charge port replaced
Any suggestions on which battery to get would be helpful too!
Thanks in advance

Google sm-p600 ( or your model #) charging port replacement. The answers are there, and there are a few, and all are the same.
Sent from my GT-N5100 using XDA Free mobile app

Deep Nox said:
Google sm-p600 ( or your model #) charging port replacement. The answers are there, and there are a few, and all are the same.
Sent from my GT-N5100 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, Google is notorious for giving different people different search results. So just because it gives you certian results doesn't mean it would give them to me. Thats one of several reasons I don't generally use google as a search engine. I did today as a last resort. Even after my searches on DuckDuckGo (which searches google and yahoo/bing without any invasion of privacy) resulted in nothing. If Google is giving you something its not giving me (not suprising), I would really appreciate a link. I spent 3 hours searching DuckDuckGo, youtube, xda and even though DuckDuckKGo searches them both, I even tried google and bing directly. I opened every search result for about 5 pages of results (and numerous searches with different keyword) and they are all replacement PARTS or instructions for completely different devices, nothing for p600 or one of the varients. Believe me, I would not have posted here unless I exhausted other potential resources first.

There's two ways to open the case, with danger of further damage. Less risky seems to me to remove the back cover and leave the frame in place. That's what the first known person opening his Note did, here in the forum, with pics and in late 2014.
In most subsequent tutorials the frame gets removed.
When removing just the backplate you can definitely replace the battery, but there is a slim plastic bar across the screws holding the usb port. I couldn't tell from the pics whether this bar prevents usage of a screwdriver or not.

lecorbusier said:
There's two ways to open the case, with danger of further damage. Less risky seems to me to remove the back cover and leave the frame in place. That's what the first known person opening his Note did, here in the forum, with pics and in late 2014.
In most subsequent tutorials the frame gets removed.
When removing just the backplate you can definitely replace the battery, but there is a slim plastic bar across the screws holding the usb port. I couldn't tell from the pics whether this bar prevents usage of a screwdriver or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks lecorbusier... do you by chance have a link to that thread? I sure couldn't find any threads for it yesterday. That being said, I'm not stressing over it at this point. My concern was more with how the connections on the 3 ribbon cables for the charge port are undone. I just ordered everything on amazon and I stumbled across a few reviews that said the charge port was a 10 minute fix as soon as you get the back off. So like I said, if you have a link, that'd be great. If not, its all good. I'm more mechanically inclined than most (I'm a professional auto tech) so I'll figure it out. I'll probably snap a few pics to put here as well, considering I had trouble finding anything on here. Parts will be here in a few days, so until then...... :fingers-crossed:

I wanted to be sure before buying the device, that I could exchange the battery and usb port, as these are the most vulnerable components, if you don't let it drop etc.
I had the link for some time, the guy even promised to check the screwdriver issue the next time he'd open it. Which he didn't, and the thread died in 2014, but must be still here.
In late 2k13 there weren't even replacement batteries, but the guy unplugged the battery to unbrick the Note several times.
I meant late 2013 in my first post, that was when the Note came out, I always forget that it's that old. Ageing well.
I'm not sure in which sub-subforum of this subforum the thread is, as it was originally about unbricking, may be in here, or the Original Android subforum. A web search in the desktop xda page will make Chrome FC on this here dualcore tablet w/1GB ram. I left my Note at home hundreds of miles away, which can still crunch/render any website,and quickly.

thebadwrench said:
Hello all. I need to replace the micro usb/charging port and battery on my p-600 in the near future. The usb/charging port had a bit of an accident a few weeks ago and charging it is now extremely tricky, replacing the charge port is my only option. I've already removed the rear cover to take a peek at what I was up against and it looks pretty straight forward. But looks can be decieving and my searches for instructions on how to replace the charge port have turned up nothing.
Has anybody relpaced theirs? Any tips? Is it as easy as it looks or is there something I should be aware of. Obviously I don't want to damage my tablet, its a great tablet it just needs its tired 2.5 year old battery & broken charge port replaced
Any suggestions on which battery to get would be helpful too!
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well , Dear friend , first of all let me tell you about the USB Port ... ( esp. if you haven't found the hardware / replacement guide ) to replace it , you need a replacement hardware which you can buy here as you live in USA ( if you don't have one ) you can search in amazon for more or even better deals ( the one I showed was just an example ... there are other sellers too for example this one is a Chinese one )
alright , now , if you have the hardware , you can install it yourself using this Video or this one
Now let's talk about the Battery replacement ... there are many battery sellers you can find in many shops ... for example I found this which seems to be useful in case you haven't done it and it's also shipped from USA or this one with a very cheaper price ( shipped from USA too ) or maybe this one or even this one for the hardware ... for the replacement , you can try this video ... I think these should help you at least a bit ... if you had any other question , feel free to ask ...
With Best Wishes
Hitman1376​

hitman1376 said:
Well , Dear friend , first of all let me tell you about the USB Port ... ( esp. if you haven't found the hardware / replacement guide ) to replace it , you need a replacement hardware which you can buy here as you live in USA ( if you don't have one ) you can search in amazon for more or even better deals ( the one I showed was just an example ... there are other sellers too for example this one is a Chinese one )
alright , now , if you have the hardware , you can install it yourself using this Video or this one
Now let's talk about the Battery replacement ... there are many battery sellers you can find in many shops ... for example I found this which seems to be useful in case you haven't done it and it's also shipped from USA or this one with a very cheaper price ( shipped from USA too ) or maybe this one or even this one for the hardware ... for the replacement , you can try this video ... I think these should help you at least a bit ... if you had any other question , feel free to ask ...
With Best Wishes
Hitman1376​
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks so much hitman (I like that username lol). I ordered everything from amazon on Saturday, which includes a new battery with toolkit, replacement usb port, a new facctory Samsung charger (package of 2 actually), some heavy duty usb charge cables (that are better than the factory one in my experience with them, set of three for only 6 bucks!) and to top it all off, a few new tips for my spen (my last one is worn to a stub at this point). With expedited shipping, everything was just under $75 US. Coincidentally, I ordered the exact usb port in your link. It should all be here by the 30th. I'll check out the videos before I dig in... thanks for the links, thats what I was looking for. Much appreciated!

thebadwrench said:
Thanks so much hitman (I like that username lol). I ordered everything from amazon on Saturday, which includes a new battery with toolkit, replacement usb port, a new facctory Samsung charger (package of 2 actually), some heavy duty usb charge cables (that are better than the factory one in my experience with them, set of three for only 6 bucks!) and to top it all off, a few new tips for my spen (my last one is worn to a stub at this point). With expedited shipping, everything was just under $75 US. Coincidentally, I ordered the exact usb port in your link. It should all be here by the 30th. I'll check out the videos before I dig in... thanks for the links, thats what I was looking for. Much appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
your welcome ... I'm so glad that it helped you ... seems like you had a great deal :good: ... Wish you a successful repair ... also , I forgot to recommend you to try the CM 12 / 13 ROMs or if you are a P601 User , to try RR which has the floating and multiwindow support as a built-in feature ... they all give much better battery life ( at least to me ... esp. if you have battery life / charging time problem and the most important , it doesn't annoy you to use AOSP instead of TW ) they also give you much more customization and are more RAM friendly and lighter ... in case you wanted to try , don't forget to make a TWRP full backup so that if you didn't like it , you will be able to return ... if you switched to those ROMs , you can try " Spen Commander " for air command replacement ... and also CM 13 has a multiwindow which you can try ( but AFAIK there were some bugs with the CM13 ROMs like camera ) ... anyway , if you were interested , you can take a look at the P601 CM13 or P601 RR / EOS / CM 12.1 or P600's CM13 or P600's Temasek or P600 LS and there are some more ROMs in the Forume you can search for ...
With Best Wishes
Hitman1376​

I didn't know that the capacitive buttons or their LEDs belong to the USB assembly. This should make it neccessary to remove the silver frame to replace usb assy. Please report whether you got thru this w/o breaking anything. The frame looks so crappy, something simply MUST get damaged.

hitman1376 said:
your welcome ... I'm so glad that it helped you ... seems like you had a great deal :good: ... Wish you a successful repair ... also , I forgot to recommend you to try the CM 12 / 13 ROMs or if you are a P601 User , to try RR which has the floating and multiwindow support as a built-in feature ... they all give much better battery life ( at least to me ... esp. if you have battery life / charging time problem and the most important , it doesn't annoy you to use AOSP instead of TW ) they also give you much more customization and are more RAM friendly and lighter ... in case you wanted to try , don't forget to make a TWRP full backup so that if you didn't like it , you will be able to return ... if you switched to those ROMs , you can try " Spen Commander " for air command replacement ... and also CM 13 has a multiwindow which you can try ( but AFAIK there were some bugs with the CM13 ROMs like camera ) ... anyway , if you were interested , you can take a look at the P601 CM13 or P601 RR / EOS / CM 12.1 or P600's CM13 or P600's Temasek or P600 LS and there are some more ROMs in the Forume you can search for ...
With Best Wishes
Hitman1376​
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm currently on Temasek's unofficial CM13 ROM. The multiwindow is a little buggy for my liking, but otherwise CM13 is a nice well rounded ROM. I use an app called Taskbar which makes for quick and easy switching between different apps. If I need to use floating multiwindows for anything I just restore my nandroid backup of Hyperdrives kitkat ROM. Multiwindow on it simply can't be beat. I haven't tried the LS ROM you gave a link for, I might give it a spin just to check it out. Thanks again :good:

lecorbusier said:
I didn't know that the capacitive buttons or their LEDs belong to the USB assembly. This should make it neccessary to remove the silver frame to replace usb assy. Please report whether you got thru this w/o breaking anything. The frame looks so crappy, something simply MUST get damaged.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will snap a few photos of the repair as do it. I'll report any obstacles I find as well as my success as soon as it's achieved :good:

Well, I have successfully replaced my battery and usb charging port. For those who might need to do the same in the future, here is a step by step with some pictures I took while doing mine. Total project time 30 minutes... its really quite easy. It seems you might have to longpress the image icons to see the pictures...
Step 1- Remove SPen and power down tablet. Remove rear cover by prying between screen and cover with a suitable tool or some type of card (credit card, old gift card etc). I started by the usb port and worked my way around. It may take 2 or 3 laps around the outside edge to fully free the rear cover.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
View of tablet with rear cover removed-
Step 2- Release the 2 ribbon cables that cross over the battery by gently prying up on the release tabs as seen in the photo below, then pull the ribbons back to remove them from connectors.
Step 3- Remove the 6 screws around the perimeter of the battery and the 2 screws that hold the charging port in place. Be careful not to drop or lose these screws. They are incredibly small (no bigger than the tip of the spen) and if dropped, they will likely disappear forever.
Step 4- Gently pry up on the small connector attached to one side of charging port to release it and repeat for the microphone, which is attached at the other side of the charging port.
Step 5- Remove charging port from tablet by first prying up on it, then pry away from the tablet. NOTE: The small metal hold down bracket will need to be removed from the old charging port and reused with new one. It is glued on, but easily removed
Step 6- Remove the battery by lifting it up out of the tablet into a vertical position above its connector. To release the connecter, apply firm pressure straight up (away from the tablet) on the connector. I had to get my finger under the wires to help the connector pull straight up and out.
Step 7- Install new battery. One of the holes for a locating pin was slightly off, so I had to enlarge the hole slightly for the battery the fully seat. When plugging the battery in, you'll hear the connector snap into place.
Step 8- Install new charge port by reversing the removal procedure above. When connecting its ribbon cable (and the other one, for that matter) first lay it flat then slide it into the connector, making sure it is fully inserted before pushing the locking tabs into place.
Step 9- Reinstall rear cover, it will audibly snap into place. Charge the new battery and celebrate your tablets new lease on life!:highfive::laugh::good::victory:

Pics are not visible in Tapatalk, even as a registered TT and XDA user.

Thanks for the guide (though I hope I won't need it in the near future )!
I don't see the pictures in a full desktop browser either, something may have gone wrong with that.

lecorbusier said:
Pics are not visible in Tapatalk, even as a registered TT and XDA user.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
franzli said:
Thanks for the guide (though I hope I won't need it in the near future )!
I don't see the pictures in a full desktop browser either, something may have gone wrong with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't seem to get them to display on here. You should be able to longpress them to see them. They're stored on google drive, so just open the link.

lecorbusier said:
Pics are not visible in Tapatalk, even as a registered TT and XDA user.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
franzli said:
Thanks for the guide (though I hope I won't need it in the near future )!
I don't see the pictures in a full desktop browser either, something may have gone wrong with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just FYI I fixed the pictures so you can see them now :good:

That's the best documentation af the Note's innards so far. I hoped for something similar from iFixit or any other source in late 2013, but nope. Only the pics in the old XDA thread and the course vid from Newpower99 on disassembly. You shouldn't go in deeper than two millimeters anywhere with a spudger or plastic opener w/o precise knowledge about how it's looking there...

[*NEW*] Nexus 5 Battery Upgrade! BL-T19 2700mAh Mod (nexus 5x battery)

The Nexus 5 was produced a while ago, more than 4 years!
But this phone is still fast and I'm using it as my daily device. But there was one problem, the battery!
If you want to replace it you still get an (if you're lucky) an original used battery. If you're unlucky it's a fake one or it was just lying around, loosing all capacity and is at least as bad as the battery you already have.
In 2013/2014 a lot of people managed to press an Lg G2 battery inside the nexus, the BL-T7
BUT this phone and it's battery is very old, like the nexus 5
I tried the BL-T7 Mod, after receiving a lot of fake batterys, I finally got an original one, but yeah, still a 3 years old battery, that was lying around - so it was not good at all, and I lost NFC and Wireless charging
See here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/accessories/3000mah-battery-mod-lg-g2-battery-t3651460/post73284739#post73284739
#############################################################################
Here is what I got for you:
On Ebay, I was looking for a new phone (because of bad battery life) and I found a perfectly fine looking Nexus 5x for 20€, the seller said it won't turn on. I ordered it and i did not manage to repair it, the seller just lied, bc he didn't say it was damaged by water
What I did: I saw the battery, thought about, "hey this is a 2016 battery, original and it may fit"
I ripped it out and really managed to swap this 2700mAh BL-T19 battery with my Lg G2 3000mah BL-T7 battery that was inside my nexus
And holy, THIS BATTERY LIFE! - 5hours SOT under heavy load!: https://imgur.com/a/sOdT0
https://imgur.com/a/HAm8e "normal load"
https://imgur.com/a/x2kXO min brightness, not doing much (only whatsapp), I know that is unrealistic, but at least, it's achievable!!
Benefits:
it's a new Battery (produced in 2015/2016)
NFC working!
Wireless charging working!
The nexus 5x had a lot of problems, a lot of dead phones, and if you're lucky you can buy a defective phone (like me) and get a fully functional battery!!
#############################################################################
NOTE: Use Tape, this is a powerful battery, if the wires touch each other, it may start burning
I won't take any responsibility if your phone get's destroyed!
#############################################################################
How I did this:
this is a BL-T19:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
and this is the one in the nexus 5 (BL-T9):
as you can see, the nexus 5x's is longer, but it's the same width. It's longer than the lg g2's one so i had to make space
I won't make pictures of my mod because i already did it, closed my phone and I really don't want to reopen it did it, see below (5.)
1. Completely disassemble your phone, you need to remove metal from the frame
2. Search a dremel to make space: I have no dremel so I used a DC motor and put sandpaper with zip ties on it (https://imgur.com/a/O7SIU)
3. Now remove metal from the frame, I have here some pictures on my testing phone frame: https://imgur.com/a/53tbX
4. Replace the battery! Do it exacly like here: https://imgur.com/a/Yj7ww
I won't decribe it any further, you may ask for help here or in older threads (Lgg2 battery replacement)
5. Here are some other Pictures I edited for you, the 2nd and third are the important ones! https://imgur.com/a/lpz8W
here are Pics of my mod, don't worry, mine looks a little different because I used another batteryboard because I broke my original one: https://imgur.com/a/8BLVj
6. You're done! try to bootup, close the phone, and be happy about a big battery NFC and Wireless charging!!!
Note that you may have to remove some plastic from the cover that goes onto the mainboard,
#############################################################################

What screen on time did you get using this modification?

anirion said:
What screen on time did you get using this modification?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did that mod yesterday, so I don't know yet
Update: I did my first full charge 2 hours ago, have 1h sot and still 91% left, holy moly
Update 2: 77%, 2.5h sot: whatsapp, browsing and youtube half brightness and an slight overclock to 2.35Ghz (elementalx kernel)
Will report tomorrow after a full day usage because for now i'm gonna load it overnight

Okay my test results are here!
https://imgur.com/a/sOdT0
My display brightness was maxed out most of the time.
5h Sot for an intensive workload is very impressive! I tried everything except gaming to stress the hell out of that battery, and it lasted so long!
I'm gonna test a normal workload and upload pictures here if you want.

wow great work!
I'm still using the hammy as my daily driver and using the first original battery.
will try your mod if I have time and the technician

https://imgur.com/a/HAm8e 7 ****ing hours!

https://imgur.com/a/x2kXO Wow.

.... That seems a little crazy for a battery that has only 400mAh higher capacity than the original 2300.. so.. a 20% boost?

Well, I undervolted and my screen was on low brightness
But my core clock is at 2.35Ghz
It was not a worst case, but it's real
and it's not only 20%, because the original battery is veeery old, you are very lucky if you get one with more than 1700mah left

I doubt any of us were getting 5-6 hours SOT even 4 years ago.. maybe, though. It has been a long time. I'm not doubting you, just wondering out loud how that works out since the math sounds weird.

EricBlade said:
I doubt any of us were getting 5-6 hours SOT even 4 years ago.. maybe, though. It has been a long time. I'm not doubting you, just wondering out loud how that works out since the math sounds weird.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mostly it's because I really tried to get the best Sot, with using it not much. So my phone was a long time on my desk with whatsapp open, and I was only texting.
That's no usual usage, my usual usage was 7 hours Sot, still impressive

Looks difficult to replace mate

sure, it's not the easiest swap.
Bit if you can use a dremel and solder 5 cables there should be no problem
I did my mod in 2h
expect 1h because theres no need to try and error anymore

I picked up a 5x battery and was going to attempt this but holy cow, you have to make about 1cm of room from cutting the frame/plastic covers. That's far more material than I'm comfortable doing... I'd say keep looking for a similarly sized battery since you're manually wiring the electrodes to the mainboard anyway...

retro486 said:
I picked up a 5x battery and was going to attempt this but holy cow, you have to make about 1cm of room from cutting the frame/plastic covers. That's far more material than I'm comfortable doing... I'd say keep looking for a similarly sized battery since you're manually wiring the electrodes to the mainboard anyway...
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I think you didn't take a look at my pictures, you have to remove everything around it, and reassemble the battery board on the side, if you need one more centimeter, you did something realy wrong
I have an original 5x battery, and I can confirm that theres enough space to fit it in
EDIT: I reopened my phone to fix something up, I made Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/8BLVj

Poor device, looks fried

234herobrine432 said:
I think you didn't take a look at my pictures, you have to remove everything around it, and reassemble the battery board on the side, if you need one more centimeter, you did something realy wrong
I have an original 5x battery, and I can confirm that theres enough space to fit it in
EDIT: I reopened my phone to fix something up, I made Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/8BLVj
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Ah I did miss that. Once I peeled the battery and swapped boards it appears to fit with trimming just the top and bottom borders.
That said, it still didn't work for me... I must've fried my board because it just keeps booting to the battery icon over and over, even when I remove the battery connections.
Also, in your pics you seem to only have two wires directly soldered to the three pads below the battery connector then another wire going into the battery connector itself... is that right?
Anyone know if there's a way to recover from the battery icon reboot sequence? I'm able to get to the fastboot mode, but if it tries to boot into recovery or system it'll just shut off and go back to the battery icon.

retro486 said:
Ah I did miss that. Once I peeled the battery and swapped boards it appears to fit with trimming just the top and bottom borders.
That said, it still didn't work for me... I must've fried my board because it just keeps booting to the battery icon over and over, even when I remove the battery connections.
Also, in your pics you seem to only have two wires directly soldered to the three pads below the battery connector then another wire going into the battery connector itself... is that right?
Anyone know if there's a way to recover from the battery icon reboot sequence? I'm able to get to the fastboot mode, but if it tries to boot into recovery or system it'll just shut off and go back to the battery icon.
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That's exactly the reason why I now use another battery board. I killed my original one and had the same battery icon reboot problem. And yes one wire is going to the battery connector itself because I broke the pin on the board, but don't worry, It's the same connection. So you can either use the pins or the connector or a mix between
To 'recover' your phone, try to just disconnect the third pin, this is the thermal sensor pin. It's on the board the very left one. Here's a picture with just the + and - connected: https://imgur.com/a/GVPMt

Great mod! I may try it when i get a nexus 5x battery. Btw, how are this golden "wires" called? (The ones that goes from the positive and negative to the board)
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@234herobrine432
What wires did u use?