I have an Tab S 8.4 LTE. Since upgrading to stock android 5.0.1 (from Sammobile), I have been getting screen flickering, screen freezes, and also random shutdown/restarts. None of that happened on 4.4.2, which the device came with. I've tried the following to correct the problems, with no luck: reinstall 5.0.1, cache wipe from recovery, factory data reset. Is my problem common? Is there a solution? Should I go back to 4.4.2?
A lot of problems you have mentioned is supposedly caused by an faulty/loose battery connector on the 8.4" , a lot of people say it started after upgrading to lollipop which is still not confirmed.
You can try the fix in the link below, but if it is a faulty battery connector a repair is your only real remedy to you problem.
This problem is quite common, have search you might find a more help.
http://www.problogbooster.com/2014/06/on-screen-display-flickering-error-android-xda.html
John.
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Tinderbox (UK) said:
A lot of problems you have mentioned is supposedly caused by an faulty/loose battery connector on the 8.4" , a lot of people say it started after upgrading to lollipop which is still not confirmed.
You can try the fix in the link below, but if it is a faulty battery connector a repair is your only real remedy to you problem.
This problem is quite common, have search you might find a more help.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had this problem. Service center in Poland (CCS) replaced screen and repaired motherboard.
Video on youtube that shows the problem :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iBDVirN_XM
corvus.corax said:
I have an Tab S 8.4 LTE. Since upgrading to stock android 5.0.1 (from Sammobile), I have been getting screen flickering, screen freezes, and also random shutdown/restarts. None of that happened on 4.4.2, which the device came with. I've tried the following to correct the problems, with no luck: reinstall 5.0.1, cache wipe from recovery, factory data reset. Is my problem common? Is there a solution? Should I go back to 4.4.2?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a common problem of Samsung tablet, battery connector is prone to crack: flickering screen, random shutdown/restart, quick discharge, battery capacity fluctuation.
If you look at Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 threats, flickering problem is the same as this model. However, the fix is simple: re solder the battery connector. Go to a repair shop or anyone knows how to re work for assistance , the work takes only under 5 minutes. No need to remove the main board, just disconnect battery cable and do the re work of battery connector's solder joints.
This battery connector is not exactly but similar to yours:
In fact, it did start after the upgrade to Lollipop, so I want to say that, for me, that is confirmed. It never happened prior to that. Nevertheless, it could be a pre-Lollipop problem. Since the unit is still in warranty, I will try to explain the problem to Samsung here. They are usually pretty good about it when I get the chance to talk with a repair tech.
Try this fix in the thread below, it worked foe an Tab S owner the other day with screen flickering.
http://www.problogbooster.com/2014/06/on-screen-display-flickering-error-android-xda.html
John.
corvus.corax said:
In fact, it did start after the upgrade to Lollipop, so I want to say that, for me, that is confirmed. It never happened prior to that. Nevertheless, it could be a pre-Lollipop problem. Since the unit is still in warranty, I will try to explain the problem to Samsung here. They are usually pretty good about it when I get the chance to talk with a repair tech.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tinderbox (UK) said:
Try this fix in the thread below, it worked foe an Tab S owner the other day with screen flickering.
http://www.problogbooster.com/2014/06/on-screen-display-flickering-error-android-xda.html
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I'll give that a try. It is worth noting that since I put 5.0.1 on my S4, it's been running smoothly.
Sefto said:
I had this problem. Service center in Poland (CCS) replaced screen and repaired motherboard.
Video on youtube that shows the problem :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iBDVirN_XM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be aware that some depot techs are lack of technical skills to troubleshoot correctly, this one is a typical one.
When replacing new screen and motherboard, this guy virtually gave you a new tablet.
Beut said:
Be aware that some depot techs are lack of technical skills to troubleshoot correctly, this one is a typical one.
When replacing new screen and motherboard, this guy virtually gave you a new tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Repaired motherboard But I don't know what exactly they did
Well, I followed the instructions to force GPU screen renderiing and for about a day, it seemed to fix the flicker/restart problem. Then, boom, it came back. So it must be a hardware issue. Off to Samsung I go.
I wonder how hot the cpu gets when the screen starts to flicker, you can download free cpu temp apps from Google Store
John.
I took the tab s to Samsung and they found it was a battery problem. They replaced the battery and all seems well after a week. Now my question is, if I use my S4 charger, which has a little lower output than the tab's charger, will that cause any problem to the battery, beyond slower charging?
Slower charging as you said will most likely problem, use the free app below to check you charging rate, look at the average ma, and press refresh a few time, on the pro version you do not have to press refresh.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.abmantis.galaxychargingcurrent.free&hl=en
John.
corvus.corax said:
I took the tab s to Samsung and they found it was a battery problem. They replaced the battery and all seems well after a week. Now my question is, if I use my S4 charger, which has a little lower output than the tab's charger, will that cause any problem to the battery, beyond slower charging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's PERFECTLY WORKS...
vinayak.etx said:
That's PERFECTLY WORKS...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wonder what did you do to fix the problem ?
Soldering worked.
I had the screen flickering problem and also random reboots on Galaxy Tab Pro 12.2 (SM-T900) and figured out that it is probably to do with the battery connector based on this post and an other post. When I opened the back cover and touched the battery connector, it just came out from its position. Samsung did a very poor job in designing this very important component which is the lifeline of the device.
However, following your advice, I first hesitated to solder it myself. I called up a repair guy and explained him that I need soldering the battery connector and he prompted $65 as the cost for it. So I decided to give a shot myself. I tried my hand at it and was able to get it done.
IMPORTANT: The connector ends are very very small and so you would need a soldering iron having a pointed tip. All you would need is to clean the battery connector ends with a hair brush and apply a very thin coating of soldering flux and have the solder lead on the pointed tip. The points on the circuit board are very close to couple of IC's and so be very careful not to touch them at all. Also, the plastic used in the battery connector component is not a good quality plastic and so be very careful in handling it.
Once the battery connector is soldered, I haven't seen any flickering so far and random reboots are gone. So far so good. I shall update this post if I see any deviation or any other update relevant with this issue.
Thank you @Beut for your post and providing insight about the problem.
Beut said:
This is a common problem of Samsung tablet, battery connector is prone to crack: flickering screen, random shutdown/restart, quick discharge, battery capacity fluctuation.
If you look at Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 threats, flickering problem is the same as this model. However, the fix is simple: re solder the battery connector. Go to a repair shop or anyone knows how to re work for assistance , the work takes only under 5 minutes. No need to remove the main board, just disconnect battery cable and do the re work of battery connector's solder joints.
This battery connector is not exactly but similar to yours:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't forget that a loose white battery connector also a factor of flickering, usually when disconnected it many times, this white connector may not make good contact with pins of black battery connector. I had one that black battery connector already resoldered but it still flickered at 70% batttery. I did a simple fix by pushing the opening tip closer. Many good batteries were wasted because most users don't know this simple trick, just disconnect and connect battery may fix auto reboot problem and don't know why.
This is what it looks like when a cable removed from the connector:
This is a bad contact, pin sits in the middle of opening of cable clip.
This is the adjustment to make the opening closer:
How to do it with a thin knife:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PU0OoZSbma8&feature=youtu.be
Then, this is a good contact
After the fix of male and female battery connectors ( black and white ), I guarantee that flickering, freeze, auto restart, auto shutdown problems will not return, unless you have a bad battery.
Beut said:
This is a common problem of Samsung tablet, battery connector is prone to crack: flickering screen, random shutdown/restart, quick discharge, battery capacity fluctuation.
If you look at Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 threats, flickering problem is the same as this model. However, the fix is simple: re solder the battery connector. Go to a repair shop or anyone knows how to re work for assistance , the work takes only under 5 minutes. No need to remove the main board, just disconnect battery cable and do the re work of battery connector's solder joints.
This battery connector is not exactly but similar to yours:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi @Beut,
I followed your post and fixed my tab by soldering the battery connector as you mentioned.
Do you happen to know what's the type of battery connector is it? I mean, if I want to buy that connector online, what should I be looking for?
Thanks.
Uresh
replied using Tapatalk
uresh.kuruhuri said:
Hi @Beut,
I followed your post and fixed my tab by soldering the battery connector as you mentioned.
Do you happen to know what's the type of battery connector is it? I mean, if I want to buy that connector online, what should I be looking for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think you can find it online. Re solder is sufficient, no need to replace a new one.
But why you need a new connector ? Broken or damaged ? If you need one I may help you where to find it, but change this connector is not simple as re solder unless you know how and have right equipment like hot air gun, hot plate ...etc....
in a worst case scenario.
Beut said:
I don't think you can find it online. Re solder is sufficient, no need to replace a new one.
But why you need a new connector ? Broken or damaged ? If you need one I may help you where to find it, but change this connector is not simple as re solder unless you know how and have right equipment like hot air gun, hot plate ...etc....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As of now, things are fine. The tablet is working fine even on longer duration of usage like playing videos on YouTube app continuously or video calls. The battery charge is lasting long besides there is no overheating like it happened before when the connector was loose. Thanks again.
However, when the connector got detached earlier, I observed that the plastic used to design that component is of pretty cheap quality and I doubted if it would stand even before I soldered. Anyways, I managed to solder that without breaking/damaging it. My fear is that the plastic base on which the (metal) connector components were placed in side-by-side fashion would disintegrate if when the plastic base gets damaged and that is my worry. I hope you understood my point.
Also, I would appreciate if you point me to any links that would explain a little more about these components.
Related
I've done the battery cycle trick several times (discharge all the way to 0 and then recharge fully to 100), but still having same problem. Even at 100% the battery goes back to critical low in an hour or less. It seems to be the worst when playing games, especially Clash of Clans. That app is more like 30 minutes to dead. If I'm using one of my e-readers, it will stay up for several hours.
Will a new battery fix this or is there something else going on? For example,one thought i had is the onboard battery monitor. Maybe its falsely reporting 100% when battery doesnt have that much in it. Just dont want to mess with wasting the money if a new battery isn't going to get me anywhere. Thanks!
~Vol
Vol4Ever said:
I've done the battery cycle trick several times (discharge all the way to 0 and then recharge fully to 100), but still having same problem. Even at 100% the battery goes back to critical low in an hour or less. It seems to be the worst when playing games, especially Clash of Clans. That app is more like 30 minutes to dead. If I'm using one of my e-readers, it will stay up for several hours.
Will a new battery fix this or is there something else going on? For example,one thought i had is the onboard battery monitor. Maybe its falsely reporting 100% when battery doesnt have that much in it. Just dont want to mess with wasting the money if a new battery isn't going to get me anywhere. Thanks!
~Vol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Clash of clan is the biggest battery drainer like candy crush. With all android platforms.
It drains enough to take a 100% tablet to dead in a half hour or less? Wow.
But that being said, it still seems the battery is draining way faster than it used to with only general day-to-day use.
Similar issue
If it's the same issue as mine a new battery will not help... I've tried.
i am still trying desperately to find a solution. Basically it's like the gauge is wrong. As a simple test I'll charge it up to 100% and start playing a very long youtube video of whatever. After the first 30 minutes it will be down to 90% which I would consider normal. Then over the next 30 minutes it will rapidly drop to 5%. Then the screen dims and it will continue to play for another 3 hours though i can't really see it.
After it dies completely I'll reboot and it'll show me 25% again, but then quickly drops back to 5, dim, and continue playing for another hour or so.
So I can only get about an hour of useful time on this thing.
As stated I tried a new battery to no avail. I've also tried to "recalibrate" using the method you described. As a last resort I rooted and deleted the batterystats.bin file (even though this apparently does nothing).
Now I'm just trying to find a way to override the screen dimming at 5%. I've tried rootdim and a few others but nothing seems to able to override the OS setting on this tablet.
If anyone has any other ideas please please please let me know.
RangerPivot said:
i am still trying desperately to find a solution. Basically it's like the gauge is wrong. As a simple test I'll charge it up to 100% and start playing a very long youtube video of whatever. After the first 30 minutes it will be down to 90% which I would consider normal. Then over the next 30 minutes it will rapidly drop to 5%. Then the screen dims and it will continue to play for another 3 hours though i can't really see .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a common problem of Galaxy Samsung tablets: cracked solders at battery connector.
Quick test to see if you have a badly loose battery connector: slap hard on the back cover with your hand, it won't break the LCD but your tablet will shut down immediately.
If it's the case, re solder the battery connector will fix the problem. Battery's capacity fluctuation is an obvious sign of loose battery connector.
Beut said:
This is a common problem of Galaxy Samsung tablets: cracked solders at battery connector.
Quick test to see if you have a badly loose battery connector: slap hard on the back cover with your hand, it won't break the LCD but your tablet will shut down immediately.
If it's the case, re solder the battery connector will fix the problem. Battery's capacity fluctuation is an obvious sign of loose battery connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. I'll give it a shot.
Battery connector should be take care first before consider relaceing battery. Battery fluctuation is not a problem from itself but its connector.
Okay. Well I don't think there's any way I can resolder that connector. Damn thing is tiny! I can see 6 solder points but they are way too close together.
As an interim attempt I rolled up a piece of electrical tape and stuck it on top of the connector to apply a bit of pressure. Will see what happens.
is there any step by step how to do it?
RangerPivot said:
Okay. Well I don't think there's any way I can resolder that connector. Damn thing is tiny! I can see 6 solder points but they are way too close together.
As an interim attempt I rolled up a piece of electrical tape and stuck it on top of the connector to apply a bit of pressure. Will see what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Electrical tape won't work with solder joints, you can make a temporary fix: lifting the mainboad with a piece of paper under the battery connector; this way may apply presure directly via rear cover. You need a small tip and magnified glass to re solder or ask someone for help or paying a repair shop. It takes less than 5 minutes
and I believe they can not charge over $30 for 5 minutes re work.
---------- Post added at 05:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:25 AM ----------
5oo said:
is there any step by step how to do it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All you need to do: remove the back cover and brings the tablet to a repair shop for re work. Battery is not needed to remove, just disconnect the battery
cable from connector; that's enough space for re work and the heat cannot damage battery's cables.
Don't try yourself if you're not familiar with soldering, especially these six pins are very small and close to other components.
This is the connector needed to re solder after removing the battery
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And watch this video how to remove the back cover
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7PP4tCJGAQ
Beut said:
Electrical tape won't work with solder joints, you need a small tip and magnified glass to re solder or ask someone for help or paying a repair shop. It takes less than 5 minutes
and I believe they can not charge over $30 for 5 minutes re work.
---------- Post added at 05:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:25 AM ----------
All you need to do: remove the back cover and brings the tablet to a repair shop for re work. Battery is not needed to remove, just disconnect the battery
cable from connector; that's enough space for re work and the heat cannot damage battery's cables.
Don't try yourself if you're not familiar with soldering, especially these six pins are very small and close to other components.
This is the connector needed to re solder after removing the battery
And watch this video how to remove the back cover
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7PP4tCJGAQ
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
where is exactly that part where has to be soldered?
well before i replaced battery if i play any game it would go from 100% to 5% like in 30 mins now is like 2 hours most?
I replaced battery thought that woud help? then i rooted and change some ROMS it would help it for a while and it dropped again...
thank you
5oo said:
where is exactly that part where has to be soldered?
well before i replaced battery if i play any game it would go from 100% to 5% like in 30 mins now is like 2 hours most?
I replaced battery thought that woud help? then i rooted and change some ROMS it would help it for a while and it dropped again...
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery connector is the one that you disconnect the battery from mainboard. The solder joints of six pins are needed to re solder.
This one is similar to your tablet because I don't have exactly picture of an open tablet: the black connector in this picture is the battery connector.
Here's a picture of the the battery connector in the note 10 2014 looking top down towards the battery bin.
In the picture the connections "look" okay. nothing obvious but this is a zoomed camera phone pic. Anyway, I'll see if I can find a shop willing to resolder the joints.
The solder joints looks normal with your eyes but may not under microsope. It doesn't hurt to resolder, add as much solders as possible to secure it to main board.
One test to verify if it's bad, it may or may not work. When battery drops, take note of its reading then shut down. With the rear cover removed, hold or press the battery connector with your fingers or hand and turns it on, take note of the battery reading. If the battery level goes up when pressing the connector with your hand, you find the culprit of your problem.
One case I did , battery level went from 7% to 43% after re soldering the battery connector.
Oh wow thanks guys tomorrow I will open note see how is it and then will find a local store, sometimes if I play game I would have 80%play for 30 mins to 50% and then suddenly drop to 20% within few mins
5oo said:
Oh wow thanks guys tomorrow I will open note see how is it and then will find a local store, sometimes if I play game I would have 80%play for 30 mins to 50% and then suddenly drop to 20% within few mins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Trust me, I already fixed some problems like yours for friends. You replaced new battery but it's the same problem, the only source is connector.
This is not an opinion but personal experiences.
This is old topic, however I would like to wrote for those of you who have the problem with incorrect battery reading, extremely fast battery drain, battery charge level drop....
It is indeed cracked soldering joints of battery connector !
Damn, I have ecountered all above problems for almost one month, so I replaced the battery, but that didn't fix the problem.
Until the day when I wanted to disconnect the battery to do "battery calibration"
And then I saw that the connector is slightly lifted up when I started unplug the battery.
When I looked to the solder joints with the magnifying glass, I saw that they are cracked.
Fortunately, I have the soldering iron with very small tips, so I applied some amount of flux to connector pins and re soldered them.
The problem is fixed ! The tablet is working again, as before. With the battery drain better 8 an 10% per hour, when browsing the Web, watching youtube and so on.
Don't forget to unplug your battery first. And when you will do it, slightly press on battery connector which is soldered to PCB, so you will not tear it appart from the PCB.
Best regards,
Khamzat
I had the same problem for about 2 weeks and I was on the very edge of ordering a new battery. Fortunately I found this thread before doing so and re soldering the battery connector did fix my tablet
Best regards,
Lars
The problem with this tablet is the delicate back plate. All pressure (except when you touch the stiffer rim areas) is transferred to the battery, the metal shields of the pcb and other components touching the back, as maybe the battery plug. This should also lead to the loose display cable syndrome. A case with its own stiff backside will then eliminate such trouble(i have case and none of these problems).
I haven't yet taken a close look at the pics or the actual inside of my Note, but if Samsung was aware of this, there may be some (too small and few) spacers to absorb pressure, but then it would be transferred to the back shield of the display unit, also not recommendable...
Samsung Tab S 8.4, bought about 3 months ago in uk from john lewis.
I had kitkat and rooted to be able to disable bloat etc to try and increase the battery life. Battery was still draining much faster than other devices, but in accordande to what a lot of people were reporting. Got used to charging it up every day.
So I got the official lollipop update, using kies, and left as stock was seeing same ballpark battery draining. Before I could get around to modifying the lollipop build the tablet started restarting. At first this was when the battery level would drop below 50% but quickly this turned into repeating boot loops. I was careful to try and be gentle with it in case the battery connection was loose, but the boot loops got quicker. In the end it would not stay on.
Here is how I fixed it. Tried factory reset, no good. But at least knew it wasnt software as had default lollipop image, plus it worked find when connected to the charger. So I didint have time to send it in to samsung for repair as due to travel, so used you tube help to open the cover and simply removed and disconnected the battery, then replaced it. Note that the battery is lightly glued in, so needs some light force to peel it out of the cavity - thats not shown on you tube.
Anyway, checked it didnt boot loop, and it was stable, so charged it up fully. Guess what? I have a much much slower draining battery now. I have manually reloaded my apps from play store (not a kies restore) and performance is the same ie the slower than original battery drain.
I don't know if they modified something between lollipop and kitkat that needed to see a hard reset to trigger or if its something peculiar to the battery requiring to be disconnected independent of the operating system, but just wanted to share and report here as this forum has been so helpful to me.
I am in UK (for lollipop version)
Refitting the battery might make the tablet think it is getting an new battery so it is forced to do an re-calibrate.
Yesterday a owner said when he took is S to a Samsung service centre, he was told the battery connectors were fault, and they replaced it with a more heavy duty version.
Also he was told upgrading to lollipop can cause problems, though i don't see how that is possible.
John.
Tinderbox (UK) said:
Refitting the battery might make the tablet think it is getting an new battery so it is forced to do an re-calibrate.
Yesterday a owner said when he took is S to a Samsung service centre, he was told the battery connectors were fault, and they replaced it with a more heavy duty version.
Also he was told upgrading to lollipop can cause problems, though i don't see how that is possible.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Makes sense on battery recalibration from disconnect, but would that affect the lower drainage rate? Maybe lollipop is better optimized for the 8.4?
I just now turned on power saving, where it was on before with kitkat. Still much more time on standard lollipop than kitkat here. Not going to bother debloating it...
Yesterday and today, owners of the 8.4" have reported problems with the battery connector, on repair Samsung replaces the original with an more heavy duty version, some people recommend soldering the battery directly to the motherboard, (not me)
John.
Tinderbox (UK) said:
Yesterday and today, owners of the 8.4" have reported problems with the battery connector, on repair Samsung replaces the original with an more heavy duty version, some people recommend soldering the battery directly to the motherboard, (not me)
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing is more heavy duty battery connector, they all are the same. Repair center just do a re solder job as this battery connector is prone to crack in most of Samsung tablets.
Read all Samsung tablets, different models and sizes, they all have the same problem but most average users are not able to see it, they need microscope at least at 20X to 40X to see the cracks. Magnified glass at 10X won't be able to see this kind of crack of solder joints.
Well i suppose the owner was lied too by Samsung, as he says in the link below that they installed an thicker connector.
She confirmed that there is indeed a problem for tab S battery connector that comes out of the box when you purchase tab S. The connector is too thin and is very easy to fail even from slightly touching the screen. So she took my tab s for an hour, replaced the battery connector with a new one which she claimed to be thicker, and reinstalled the May lollipop update. Since then I have never had any problem, and my battery performance is very satisfying.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=61977890&postcount=509
John.
Beut said:
Nothing is more heavy duty battery connector, they all are the same. Repair center just do a re solder job as this battery connector is prone to crack in most of Samsung tablets.
Read all Samsung tablets, different models and sizes, they all have the same problem but most average users are not able to see it, they need microscope at least at 20X to 40X to see the cracks. Magnified glass at 10X won't be able to see this kind of crack of solder joints.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
5310 said:
Here is how I fixed it. Tried factory reset, no good. But at least knew it wasnt software as had default lollipop image, plus it worked find when connected to the charger. So I didint have time to send it in to samsung for repair as due to travel, so used you tube help to open the cover and simply removed and disconnected the battery, then replaced it. Note that the battery is lightly glued in, so needs some light force to peel it out of the cavity - thats not shown on you tube.
Anyway, checked it didnt boot loop, and it was stable, so charged it up fully. Guess what? I have a much much slower draining battery now. I have manually reloaded my apps from play store (not a kies restore) and performance is the same ie the slower than original battery drain.
I am in UK (for lollipop version)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A permanent fix : re solder the battery connector.
A temporary fix : put a thick piece of paper on top of the battery connector, secure it with a tape. A direct pressure on the back cover will temporary close the gaps of cracked solders. This temporary fix only works with a not badly cracked battery connector. A badly cracked one is the connector that you can lift it off the main board easily or tap hard on the back cover, your tablet shuts down immediately.
I tend to agree, it's unlikely they did anything but resolder. If it's happened on previous devices why would they still be using the same connector if they had a beefed up version?
In any case the connector is non mobile so it makes no difference as long as its securely soldered it should be fine.
There are much flimsier components and connectors in devices nowadays that don't give issue.
The connector to the circuit board looked beefy enough and it didn't feel loose in any way....its the female socket soldered onto the circuit board that you all are describing?
I'll keep an eye out of course, but so far same great performance, much better than when out of the box new
5310 said:
The connector to the circuit board looked beefy enough and it didn't feel loose in any way....its the female socket soldered onto the circuit board that you all are describing?
I'll keep an eye out of course, but so far same great performance, much better than when out of the box new
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the connector I'm talking about, not exactly, but common in Samsung tablets. Some look perfect from the top but it moves slightly if pushing. I'm already to re solder so I'm not afraid to push or lift it from main board to test its solder joints. Most of erratically behaviors related to power such as shut down, auto restart, battery capacity fluctuation, quick discharge, I know most come from this cracked connector and successful to fix the problem by re solder it.
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Most of this problem is seen in Samsung tablets which have battery connector at the center of the tablet, the bigger the tablet, the more likely it has this problem like 10 inches or bigger. Samsung tablets are so simple in assembly, like the Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 inches, the main board has only 3 screws to hold it to the frame. If putting a finger on the battery connector, you can feel it move up and down easily on top of the LCD.
I have the same issue, this red circled chip keeps on heating, even when I turn it off. I suspect this might have something to do with my battery draining... can anyone help?
Imgur.com/3NLqmh5
How fast is your battery draining when your tablet is in sleep mode overnight.
John.
ozaq1 said:
I have the same issue, this red circled chip keeps on heating, even when I turn it off. I suspect this might have something to do with my battery draining... can anyone help?
Imgur.com/3NLqmh5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tinderbox (UK) said:
How fast is your battery draining when your tablet is in sleep mode overnight.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Measured mulltiple ttimes. 5% approx. Very consistent drain. Even when shut off. (Completely off)
Drain only stops when i remove battery from mobo.
Your battery should take months to become empty when your tablet is completely turned off, Sorry but It sound like you have a fault on your motherboard.
John.
ozaq1 said:
Measured mulltiple ttimes. 5% approx. Very consistent drain. Even when shut off. (Completely off)
Drain only stops when i remove battery from mobo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahahah. Fml.
Maybe its a problem with the battery connector?
More diagnostic info: once i disconnect the battery from the motherboard, and reconnect, the tablet will not turn on until i plug in the wall charger. Once i plug it in, the tablet turns on fine.
Did you have a look at the circled chip? Any idea what that is?
---------- Post added at 09:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:11 PM ----------
Tinderbox (UK) said:
Your battery should take months to become empty when your tablet is completely turned off, Sorry but It sound like you have a fault on your motherboard.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahahah. Fml.*
Maybe its a problem with the battery connector?
More diagnostic info: once i disconnect the battery from the motherboard, and reconnect, the tablet will not turn on until i plug in the wall charger. Once i plug it in, the tablet turns on fine.
Did you have a look at the circled chip? Any idea what that is?
I google for any tear-downs of Samsung tablets, but none of them identify the shielded component you circled, but as it`s so close to the battery connector it could be a power management chip, but that is a guess.
John.
ozaq1 said:
Hahahah. Fml.
Maybe its a problem with the battery connector?
More diagnostic info: once i disconnect the battery from the motherboard, and reconnect, the tablet will not turn on until i plug in the wall charger. Once i plug it in, the tablet turns on fine.
Did you have a look at the circled chip? Any idea what that is?
---------- Post added at 09:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:11 PM ----------
Hahahah. Fml.*
Maybe its a problem with the battery connector?
More diagnostic info: once i disconnect the battery from the motherboard, and reconnect, the tablet will not turn on until i plug in the wall charger. Once i plug it in, the tablet turns on fine.
Did you have a look at the circled chip? Any idea what that is?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------
To rule out the battery connector you could have the battery soldered direct to the motherboard.
John.
Tinderbox (UK) said:
I google for any tear-downs of Samsung tablets, but none of them identify the shielded component you circled, but as it`s so close to the battery connector it could be a power management chip, but that is a guess.
John.
---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------
To rule out the battery connector you could have the battery soldered direct to the motherboard.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, ill try to have a new connector soldered. Appreciate you trying to help.
But you saying your tablet will not boot without the USB power adapter connected, indicates a power problem, likely a battery connection or that chip that you said was warm even when the tablet is turned off.
All you can do is start with the easiest to fix, which is the battery connector.
John
ozaq1 said:
Thanks, ill try to have a new connector soldered. Appreciate you trying to help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should do one by one to solve a problem with many unknowns: battery connector, battery, or main board.
The first priority is to re solder the battery connector to see any improvement. You will confuse yourselves and others when trying to figure out many things at the same time. The key in troubleshooting is elimination method: solve each unknown one at a time. You cannot find any component of main board on the market, don't think about new battery connector because you'll never find one, but new one is not necessary as re solder is sufficient to solve battery quick discharge problem.
I was the one who recommended to solder tha battery directly to the board. I was having issues with kitkat when i bought my tab last year. Battery drains so much that it will shut itself off. But when you reboot. It will go back to at least 40%. Resetting the battery by unplugging-plugging the battery to the board seems to resolve the issue that i got bored doing it thats why i slder the battery terminals to the board. after upgrading to lollipop. I was able to drain use my phone up to 1%. Battery drain overnight in idle is 1-2%. Im a heavy user, and it lasts me 1 and a half days
Battery soldering is not for the faint hearted. I only recommend it to those who knew what they're doing as those terminals are so small that one mistake could short your board and fry it instantly
Hi guys, my tablet has been showing some significant battery drain lately. When idle, it drains around 5-10% per hour. At first I thought something was preventing it to go to sleep (according to GSAM the battery is mostly drained by the kernel), but then I started noticing that also when I was using the device the battery drained significantly (20-25% per hour).
I tried the common fixes such as wiping the device, turning off any energy-consuming apps and services (e.g. Google Now, GPS, etc.), battery recalibration and reseating the battery; nothing helps.
I'm running a stable nightly from CM13.0 (I asked in the CM13.0 thread if anyone else has this problem but it just seems to be me), but the issue was also present in other nightlies and in 12.1.
The last option I can think of right now is buying a new battery, but since that would be pretty costly and since I'm not sure that would solve my problem I wanted to run this by you to see if anyone here would have an idea of what could solve it.
Thank you very much in advance for your help!
SeveralBunnies said:
Hi guys, my tablet has been showing some significant battery drain lately. When idle, it drains around 5-10% per hour. At first I thought something was preventing it to go to sleep (according to GSAM the battery is mostly drained by the kernel), but then I started noticing that also when I was using the device the battery drained significantly (20-25% per hour).
I tried the common fixes such as wiping the device, turning off any energy-consuming apps and services (e.g. Google Now, GPS, etc.), battery recalibration and reseating the battery; nothing helps.
I'm running a stable nightly from CM13.0 (I asked in the CM13.0 thread if anyone else has this problem but it just seems to be me), but the issue was also present in other nightlies and in 12.1.
The last option I can think of right now is buying a new battery, but since that would be pretty costly and since I'm not sure that would solve my problem I wanted to run this by you to see if anyone here would have an idea of what could solve it.
Thank you very much in advance for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not ROM related. I am running CM13 and was having the same issues. Take apart the tab, and lift the battery connector vertically. There might be some tape, take that off first. Let tab sit for 5 min, then reconnect. Fixed my issues
ReyDelGuaguanco said:
Not ROM related. I am running CM13 and was having the same issues. Take apart the tab, and lift the battery connector vertically. There might be some tape, take that off first. Let tab sit for 5 min, then reconnect. Fixed my issues
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply! Although I did try dis- and reconnecting the battery, I've tried your advice. It's too soon now to tell now whether it works, I'll check back with you once I know more.
Hello,
Same problem for me: bootloop near 15% battery charge and she never charge more than 90%. I'm sorry but i'don't understand the method to fix this problem.
Thanks
jemsgaelle said:
Hello,
Same problem for me: bootloop near 15% battery charge and she never charge more than 90%. I'm sorry but i'don't understand the method to fix this problem.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This battery connector should be re solder due to hairline cracks, you need a microscope to see it
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Someone just disconnect and reconnect the battery to fix the problem, the white connector has loose connection,
this one needs to be fixed too by adjusting the opening tip of battery cables
Samsung fix the issue of loose battery connection by using this silver conductive glue
This is a repair from Samsung center, they soldered battery cables directly to the connector to fix loose connection,
without knowing this, an average user will damage the mainboard and battery connector while trying to remove the battery.
jemsgaelle said:
Hello,
Same problem for me: bootloop near 15% battery charge and she never charge more than 90%. I'm sorry but i'don't understand the method to fix this problem.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you need to do is take the back cover off the tablet and look for the battery connector, it's basically a few bundled wires that connects the battery to the tablet. You need to disconnect these (I used a pencil to wiggle it a bit, make sure you do it carefully) and let it rest for about 5 minutes. After that, reconnect it and turn your tablet on. That should fix the issue that you're having.
Beut said:
This battery connector should be re solder due to hairline cracks, you need a microscope to see it
*Image*
Someone just disconnect and reconnect the battery to fix the problem, the white connector has loose connection,
this one needs to be fixed to by adjusting the opening tip of battery cables
*Image*
Samsung fix the issue of loose battery connection by using this silver conductive glue
*Image*
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stupid question maybe, but could this loose connection also be a solution for the drain I'm having?
ReyDelGuaguanco said:
Not ROM related. I am running CM13 and was having the same issues. Take apart the tab, and lift the battery connector vertically. There might be some tape, take that off first. Let tab sit for 5 min, then reconnect. Fixed my issues
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your fix does seem to improve battery life a little bit, but unfortunately I'm still stuck with a pretty big drain. When totally idle it drains 5% per hour, so it dies after about 18 hours of being totally idle.
It should be able to last longer than that right? Any suggestions from anyone are welcome!
You should fix both battery connectors: black male connector needs to be re soldered, white female connector with 6 wires needs to be adjust the opening of battery cables.
Some may need to fix one, not both, but for sure, both need to be fix, the same procedures Samsung repair center will do: fix both connectors.
Regardless what model you have, the same fix applies to Samsung 10.1 and 12.2.
I have been fixed Samsung Note 2014 10.1 ( LTE and Wifi ), Samsung Note Pro 12.2 ( LTE and Wifi ) and Tab Pro 12.2 tablets, they all have the same problem of battery connectors.
Beut said:
You should fix both battery connectors: black male connector needs to be re soldered, white female connector with 6 wires needs to be adjust the opening of battery cables.
Some may need to fix one, not both, but for sure, both need to be fix, the same procedures Samsung repair center will do: fix both connectors.
Regardless what model you have, the same fix applies to Samsung 10.1 and 12.2.
I have been fixed Samsung Note 2014 10.1 ( LTE and Wifi ), Samsung Note Pro 12.2 ( LTE and Wifi ) and Tab Pro 12.2 tablets, they all have the same problem of battery connectors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how does it cost to fix it without warranty at samsung
It may cost you over $100 for a round trip to Texas.
Anyone or shop who can do the rework can help you with little charge as much as $60. It takes only 5 to 10 minutes to get it done.
Just outta interest, which 'Mode' are you using?
I've found the stock 'Balanced' Mode (cm-13.0), drains my T325 alarmingly fast.* Unless I switch over to the 'Efficiency' Mode, which seems (for me), to work like the old 'Balanced' Mode from cm-12.1 had.
*Alarmingly fast here would be a compleat drop from ~100% to Dead with in 90 minutes. Note I'm less sure if that's the nature of that Mode , or if it's just the stress of coming off a clean install, and the rebuilding the OS up again. But, since moving to cm-13.0 I've been sure to change up to the 'Efficiency' setting. And, so have been enjoying upwards of +7H of use.
Ichijoe said:
Just outta interest, which 'Mode' are you using?
*Alarmingly fast here would be a compleat drop from ~100% to Dead with in 90 minutes. .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery connector problems are not related to software or firmware; quick discharge, battery capacity fluctuations, long charging or never get full charge are all common problems of Samsung tablets regardless whatever you're running or settings
Ichijoe said:
Just outta interest, which 'Mode' are you using?
I've found the stock 'Balanced' Mode (cm-13.0), drains my T325 alarmingly fast.* Unless I switch over to the 'Efficiency' Mode, which seems (for me), to work like the old 'Balanced' Mode from cm-12.1 had.
*Alarmingly fast here would be a compleat drop from ~100% to Dead with in 90 minutes. Note I'm less sure if that's the nature of that Mode , or if it's just the stress of coming off a clean install, and the rebuilding the OS up again. But, since moving to cm-13.0 I've been sure to change up to the 'Efficiency' setting. And, so have been enjoying upwards of +7H of use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was really hoping that that would've been the problem but unfortunately I had already set it to efficiency mode thanks for your reply though!
Although I trust my software capabilities more than my hardware know-how, the issue is getting so frustrating that I'll try Beut's solution. I will report back after I tried it!
So the closest thing to Robin's battery is Vivo X5 Pro battery i bought mine of Amazon(IN), its a B-87 type battery.
Watch this youtube.com/watch?v=7hOuFjbT-E0 and this youtube.com/watch?v=BKGQ7vXnERI . {Search for Nextbit Robin Teardown on Youtube}
Open the robin carefully.
Remove the battery and cut the circuit on battery be careful we need this later
By this time you might have noticed that Vivo X5 Pro battery connector is on left side whereas robins is on right side plus is short and small
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disassemble the Vivo X5 pro battery and cut circuit remember the polarities now take robins circuit, negative side on robin is next to ribbon.
Stick the circuit to battery or solder it.
Resemble it and it should be good as new
. :good:
It looks like a nightmare to replace the battery ;(
How can I fit Vivo X5 pro battery to the original place?
Do I need to unwrap the battery?
Could you tell me more?
itsundef said:
So the closest thing to Robin's battery is Vivo X5 Pro battery i bought mine of Amazon(IN), its a B-87 type battery.
Watch this youtube.com/watch?v=7hOuFjbT-E0 and this youtube.com/watch?v=BKGQ7vXnERI . {Search for Nextbit Robin Teardown on Youtube}
Open the robin carefully.
Remove the battery and cut the circuit on battery be careful we need this later
By this time you might have noticed that Vivo X5 Pro battery connector is on left side whereas robins is on right side plus is short and small
disassemble the Vivo X5 pro battery and cut circuit remember the polarities now take robins circuit, negative side on robin is next to ribbon.
Stick the circuit to battery or solder it.
Resemble it and it should be good as new
. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How can I fit Vivo X5 pro battery to the original place?
Do I need to unwrap the vivo battery?
Could you tell me more?
Which circuit u are talking about to cut?
Which circuit u are talking about to cut. Can u be able to share some pic of it to understand more easily to us. Thanks in advance
ChiragAsawa said:
Which circuit u are talking about to cut. Can u be able to share some pic of it to understand more easily to us. Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok, so the battery pack is the same, not the control PCB attached to it, so you will have to de-solder and swap the PCB battery control circuits.
the lead closest to the ribbon connector on the stock Nextbit Battery is the positive ( so the opposite or backwards to the Vivo battery, the Vivo battery from cameron sino is labeled)
As you can see, it does "fit," and is currently a viable option.(the way i soldered the PCB to the Battery terminals it bends the ribbon in a funky way, but that's my fault, don't suck like me , look up proper de-soldering, PCB tinning w/ flux, and Soldering.)
note, the reason you can't just clip and attach the ribbon cable, is one has 3 connections, and the other 4(Robin,) the Control circuits are different.
i will update with any falures, etc.
also remember to fully charge you new battery before powering on the device again.
and check your volume controls, make a call to assure you can hear and be heard, and turn you alarms off and on again even if it says they're good. (had a bad morning the day after, but it was easily fixed.)
DO NOT CROSS THE STREAMS (good advice in any case )
Good Luck and happy modding.
Leftcatcher said:
ok, so the battery pack is the same, not the control PCB attached to it, so you will have to de-solder and swap the PCB battery control circuits.
the lead closest to the ribbon connector on the stock Nextbit Battery is the positive ( so the opposite or backwards to the Vivo battery, the Vivo battery from cameron sino is labeled)
As you can see, it does "fit," and is currently a viable option.(the way i soldered the PCB to the Battery terminals it bends the ribbon in a funky way, but that's my fault, don't suck like me , look up proper de-soldering, PCB tinning w/ flux, and Soldering.)
note, the reason you can't just clip and attach the ribbon cable, is one has 3 connections, and the other 4(Robin,) the Control circuits are different.
i will update with any falures, etc.
also remember to fully charge you new battery before powering on the device again.
and check your volume controls, make a call to assure you can hear and be heard, and turn you alarms off and on again even if it says they're good. (had a bad morning the day after, but it was easily fixed.)
DO NOT CROSS THE STREAMS (good advice in any case )
Good Luck and happy modding.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So its been a month, how is the battery holding up on robin?
Any more than normal heating of the battery/device while charging or while in use?
Also where did you get your battery from?
Thank you.
Leftcatcher said:
ok, so the battery pack is the same, not the control PCB attached to it, so you will have to de-solder and swap the PCB battery control circuits.
the lead closest to the ribbon connector on the stock Nextbit Battery is the positive ( so the opposite or backwards to the Vivo battery, the Vivo battery from cameron sino is labeled)
As you can see, it does "fit," and is currently a viable option.(the way i soldered the PCB to the Battery terminals it bends the ribbon in a funky way, but that's my fault, don't suck like me , look up proper de-soldering, PCB tinning w/ flux, and Soldering.)
note, the reason you can't just clip and attach the ribbon cable, is one has 3 connections, and the other 4(Robin,) the Control circuits are different.
i will update with any falures, etc.
also remember to fully charge you new battery before powering on the device again.
and check your volume controls, make a call to assure you can hear and be heard, and turn you alarms off and on again even if it says they're good. (had a bad morning the day after, but it was easily fixed.)
DO NOT CROSS THE STREAMS (good advice in any case )
Good Luck and happy modding.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, is working well after the battery swap??
Leftcatcher said:
ok, so the battery pack is the same, not the control PCB attached to it, so you will have to de-solder and swap the PCB battery control circuits.
the lead closest to the ribbon connector on the stock Nextbit Battery is the positive ( so the opposite or backwards to the Vivo battery, the Vivo battery from cameron sino is labeled)
As you can see, it does "fit," and is currently a viable option.(the way i soldered the PCB to the Battery terminals it bends the ribbon in a funky way, but that's my fault, don't suck like me , look up proper de-soldering, PCB tinning w/ flux, and Soldering.)
note, the reason you can't just clip and attach the ribbon cable, is one has 3 connections, and the other 4(Robin,) the Control circuits are different.
i will update with any falures, etc.
also remember to fully charge you new battery before powering on the device again.
and check your volume controls, make a call to assure you can hear and be heard, and turn you alarms off and on again even if it says they're good. (had a bad morning the day after, but it was easily fixed.)
DO NOT CROSS THE STREAMS (good advice in any case )
Good Luck and happy modding.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you make a video of it ?
/root said:
So its been a month, how is the battery holding up on robin?
Any more than normal heating of the battery/device while charging or while in use?
Also where did you get your battery from?
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for taking so long to respond, i moved to a new state, took a new job, and have been working a lot (12-16hr days 6 days a week) ??
My Robin is doing great!
The battery has aclimated nicely, no excessive heat from the battery (the main board gets hot while streaming twich, sometimes but it's always done that so no more than usual, especially if i have a lot of other things going on in the background.)
I bought my battery from ebay(which i do not recommend,) but they sell it from other battery vendors too.
I would recommend finding a battery vendor state side if you're there and paying $3-4 more, otherwise expect 35 day shipping from China...
I found it just now on Amazon just by searching for "B-87 Battery" Here.
vagaba1 said:
So, is working well after the battery swap??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep.
Security Root said:
Could you make a video of it ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would need another Robin battery to show it.
And a camera...
Maybe.
Delete
AnierinB said:
I have an original OEM battery I pulled out of a broken robin. Was only a month old so I'm sure it's in great condition if anyone wants it for free. Just pm or telegram me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pm'ed you!
i need the batery
AnierinB said:
I have an original OEM battery I pulled out of a broken robin. Was only a month old so I'm sure it's in great condition if anyone wants it. Just pm or telegram me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hola, mi nombre es ignacio soy de argentina, me gustaria comprar la bateria, saludos
Thanks Leftcatcher
Thanks Leftcatcher for help, without the photos you posted I can't change the battery of my nextbit robin. I PURCHASED vivo x5 pro battery from my local shop which costed me 400rs. And it only took me 10 min to cut the circuit of stock battery and connect it to vivo's battery and it is working very good like an orignal battery. Once again thanks.???
desire999 said:
Thanks Leftcatcher for help, without the photos you posted I can't change the battery of my nextbit robin. I PURCHASED vivo x5 pro battery from my local shop which costed me 400rs. And it only took me 10 min to cut the circuit of stock battery and connect it to vivo's battery and it is working very good like an orignal battery. Once again thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh nice.
Can you share some photos? Thank you.
I've finally got my hands on a Vivo X5 Pro b-81 battery, but after the swap, the phone wont power on. I've tried leaving charging but as soon as I try to boot up the system, it reboots. If the cable is removed, instantly shuts down. On TWRP, it shows charging but everytime I remove the cable, it starts all over from 1%
Is there any trick to make it work? Thanks
I faced a similar issue for some time. I later found out that a major portion of the connectors need to be connected with a good amount of solder.
Re-soldering the battery should do the trick. Quick note: The battery was great for the first month and the performance now is slowly declining. Your mileage may wary.
Good Luck
itsundef said:
So the closest thing to Robin's battery is Vivo X5 Pro battery i bought mine of Amazon(IN), its a B-87 type battery.
Watch this youtube.com/watch?v=7hOuFjbT-E0 and this youtube.com/watch?v=BKGQ7vXnERI . {Search for Nextbit Robin Teardown on Youtube}
Open the robin carefully.
Remove the battery and cut the circuit on battery be careful we need this later
By this time you might have noticed that Vivo X5 Pro battery connector is on left side whereas robins is on right side plus is short and small
disassemble the Vivo X5 pro battery and cut circuit remember the polarities now take robins circuit, negative side on robin is next to ribbon.
Stick the circuit to battery or solder it.
Resemble it and it should be good as new
. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello! i think its super neat you were able to swap out the nxtbit battery. im unfortunately at the end of the road with my orig battery, phone wont even stay on unless plugged up. charging and even then it still shuts off on me sometimes. I love this phone and would rather try your method however, im so confused. i couldn't find any info on desoldering as i vaguely know what that it and Im not sure how you detached and attached the pcb, also what do you mean dont cross stream. i know its a long-shot bc you hvnt been active on here anymore but im desperate for any help.
thank you
tiffanyrhys said:
Hello! i think its super neat you were able to swap out the nxtbit battery. im unfortunately at the end of the road with my orig battery, phone wont even stay on unless plugged up. charging and even then it still shuts off on me sometimes. I love this phone and would rather try your method however, im so confused. i couldn't find any info on desoldering as i vaguely know what that it and Im not sure how you detached and attached the pcb, also what do you mean dont cross stream. i know its a long-shot bc you hvnt been active on here anymore but im desperate for any help.
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine stays in a box until I find a way to replace the battery. I have the same issue, it stays ON till its idle as soon as I start an app or a call it just shuts down. It works fine if its connected to power all the time LOL.
Did you get that battery OP suggested? I too am a little confused with OP's method. hope you get a response.
I read somewhere there are options on chinese websites for same battery size and specifications and also some are selling batteries for Robin too. I need to explore that, if you find them let me know I will do the same.
/root said:
Mine stays in a box until I find a way to replace the battery. I have the same issue, it stays ON till its idle as soon as I start an app or a call it just shuts down. It works fine if its connected to power all the time LOL.
Did you get that battery OP suggested? I too am a little confused with OP's method. hope you get a response.
I read somewhere there are options on chinese websites for same battery size and specifications and also some are selling batteries for Robin too. I need to explore that, if you find them let me know I will do the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi! I did order the battery he suggested and it comes tomorrow ?. i havent looked into getting the exact as i heard it's futile. I havent decided yet if ill try it myself or go to a cellphone repair shop but im worried they wont even try? i may hv no choice but to do it myself. its too bad we cant reach the OP
Update:
Try clearing USB Settings cache, wipe cache in recovery mode nothing work but what makes some improvement was following these steps (us.community.samsungcom/t5/Note8/Note-8-Died-Unresponsive/td-p/235388) that refers to charge stacking I did plug it and unplug it many times like 100 without holding the buttons, first like 20 tries I got the charging symbol with the yellow warning, after 50 it star flickering like if the cable had a lose contact it was at least showing the %, after like 75 it start showing as if it charges normally will go up 3% and then like 65% 66% 67% and the over and over again 65% 66% 67% and after the amount of time past so the battery discharge 1 % will keep doing the same now like 64% 65% 66% that's where I am at the moment.
Tonight I will heat it up to try replicating the first fix trying to melt the USB port connectors looking for a temporary fix so that I can make a backup if not will do the backup with 60% the battery I have left from the new battery. :fingers-crossed::fingers-crossed:
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Hi everyone
Like a month ago, my A70 (one of my best phones so far in terms of value for money) stop charging.
At first, I thought it was the cable, the adapter, so I try different adapter, plugs, and cables until the point that my phone battery got discharged.
Confident that it was not the battery I bought the charging port part and start heating the phone to disassembly and replace the charging port while doing that I receive an important call and left for a meeting when I come back I was preparing my self to start the heat process again. Still, for no reason, I connected to try one more time before surgery, and voila, it starts charging.
My only explanation was that the heat must have melted the USB-C connector soldering and reconnect, so now it was working. I save the part, knowing that eventually, the problem will come back. And it did, one month later the same happen the phone stops charging, the battery got discharged, and then I open and replace the USB-C port part. Still, it didn't work I connect the cable get the thunder icon but not charging, so I say it must be the battery get a new battery today replace it and is not charging just showing the thunder icon for a few seconds then the screen goes black, but the phone is not charging.
I turn on the phone, and all is working perfect, the new battery came with 80% charge, so I know all is good. I even try safe mode to discard possibilities without success.
So I don't know what to do anymore? I don't even understand what can be or even to what the problem may be related to. I start thinking maybe I should buy a new port part because the new one was faulty?
I will appreciate any ideas or help.
Thanks, and have a good one!
G
i have the exact same problem, and we are not the only ones , i should've brought a k20 pro instead , can't believe it passed tests
BK said:
i have the exact same problem, and we are not the only ones , i should've brought a k20 pro instead , can't believe it passed tests
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So sad to know we are not the only ones, I guess that it the price to pay for buying a 2019 phone is like using the last update of windows we are the ones that will end up solving and reporting all the problems.
I will keep searching if I find something I will post it here please let me know if you find something. In the meantime, I will try to check the port part with magnifier to see if I get some clues and heat it up.
Thanks for your reply at least knowing I am not alone makes me feel a bit better or worst I dont know right now. :crying:
gzg06 said:
So sad to know we are not the only ones, I guess that it the price to pay for buying a 2019 phone is like using the last update of windows we are the ones that will end up solving and reporting all the problems.
I will keep searching if I find something I will post it here please let me know if you find something. In the meantime, I will try to check the port part with magnifier to see if I get some clues and heat it up.
Thanks for your reply at least knowing I am not alone makes me feel a bit better or worst I dont know right now. :crying:
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well buddy what's your firmware? SI2 or SJ3?
BK said:
well buddy what's your firmware? SI2 or SJ3?
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This one is my firmware
A705MNXXU3ASG7
Do you think it is a firmware problem? Then what is firmware that don't have this charging problem? That would be as easy as installing new firmware.
gzg06 said:
This one is my firmware
A705MNXXU3ASG7
Do you think it is a firmware problem? Then what is firmware that don't have this charging problem? That would be as easy as installing new firmware.
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i fixed it my own way ,unsoldering mine didnt fixed it so i baked the board in my mini oven at 230° degrees for 12 minutes no more ,it works without issues now.
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i buyed a new charging board but im not gonna even use it.
BK said:
i fixed it my own way ,unsoldering mine didnt fixed it so i baked the board in my mini oven at 230° degrees for 12 minutes no more ,it works without issues now.
View attachment 4889997
i buyed a new charging board but im not gonna even use it.
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I start to believe it is the motherboard because if it was the charging port it would have worked just by changing the USB port board. I will try to put the original charging board in the oven to see if that works but it looks to me like a motherboard issue.
Thanks for the reply.:good:
gzg06 said:
I start to believe it is the motherboard because if it was the charging port it would have worked just by changing the USB port board. I will try to put the original charging board in the oven to see if that works but it looks to me like a motherboard issue.
Thanks for the reply.:good:
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i found out it wasnt the usb port the problem since even the jack port stop workig when the issue occurs , dont go higher temps or components could start to melts.
BK said:
i found out it wasnt the usb port the problem since even the jack port stop workig when the issue occurs , dont go higher temps or components could start to melts.
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how do you lay it down? USB port touching the ground or like in the picture you upload?
gzg06 said:
how do you lay it down? USB port touching the ground or like in the picture you upload?
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i put mine on a metal cooking plate , also put something in the jack port like an old broken jack so the port keep his form even if heated too much.
tell me how is it going for you
As you can see, everybody is having this problem with this phone , because who hasn't used an after market charger/cord before.
After looking carefully about how people approached this, I am trying a method that I thought of on my own, to try and resolve the issue with the solder not contacting well enough for the phone to charge and possibly having some moisture in there as well.
This is a gentle method and I will report success if it prevails of course!
First take all protectors off the phone. Remove some/memory card. Place phone in a bag of rice so that the screen faces up with little rice on the surface. Aquire a magic bean bag from the local pharmacy, and heat it for 2min and 30 seconds. Place it on top of the phone /rice mixture. Set a timer for 12 minutes. Half way through heat the magic bag for another 1min. Place on too for the remainder of the 12min.
Once done. Keep phone stored in the rice for 2 days in a dry, cool room.
I will be reporting whether this is a simple back/fix for this terrible problem with these phones. Thanks !
Hi, I think I have the same issue you are describing.
My A70 refused to charge early January, would also no longer connect via ADB, but would connect via Mobile Odin.
I returned it, and they repaired it by changing the charging circuit. About 1 month later it happened again. But this time It started working again after about 1 day.
After complaining with my supplier, I got the response that is must be fine since it started charging again.
2 weeks ago, again. After it discharged it started charging again after about a day.
Now last week ago, 4th time, and no luck getting it to charge this time.
Again Mobile Odin sees the phone, and could even flash a new Rom.
But No joy charging.
Supplier accuses me of using aftermarket chargers, and that it's my fault. Does not want to extend warranty "again".
i dont have that problem i bought a wireless charger stand it fits on back hidden by case and it works great i wonder if your phone might charge that way