Develop Bugs

[Q] Xperia Play Fuzzy / Static screen

Ok, so the battery died on my play yesterday so, as you do, I went and got the charger and plugged it in. Once it was charging I turned it back on. However, when I went to use it all I saw was this:
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My first thought was to take the battery out and reboot so I did - as I was taking out the battery I saw a flash of the old screen for a second just before the power went.
Rebooted but no change.
I tried to backup and restore with the SE sofware but I couldn't put the phone in media something mode and it wouldn't allow me to.
So I reinstalled using SEUS instead, powered back on and no change.
It's really bugging me. The screen starts up with "SonyEricsson" which says to me the screen is surely not broken or disconnected, ut then I get this fuzzy / static mess and nothing else.
It's only a few months old so it's probably under warranty, but I really don't want to have to send it back - it's been less than 24 hours and I'm already missing it!!
Anyone have any ideas?
P.S. - I've also tried rebooting without the memory card and/or sim card, but no diff.

zacseph said:
Ok, so the battery died on my play yesterday so, as you do, I went and got the charger and plugged it in. Once it was charging I turned it back on. However, when I went to use it all I saw was this:
My first thought was to take the battery out and reboot so I did - as I was taking out the battery I saw a flash of the old screen for a second just before the power went.
Rebooted but no change.
I tried to backup and restore with the SE sofware but I couldn't put the phone in media something mode and it wouldn't allow me to.
So I reinstalled using SEUS instead, powered back on and no change.
It's really bugging me. The screen starts up with "SonyEricsson" which says to me the screen is surely not broken or disconnected, ut then I get this fuzzy / static mess and nothing else.
It's only a few months old so it's probably under warranty, but I really don't want to have to send it back - it's been less than 24 hours and I'm already missing it!!
Anyone have any ideas?
P.S. - I've also tried rebooting without the memory card and/or sim card, but no diff.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
do you think it is software or hardware related. you could try WotanServer or flashtool to flash stock I think the bootloader doesn't need to be unlocked for official files.
Fma965 - Forgottencoders.co.uk

fma965 said:
do you think it is software or hardware related. you could try WotanServer or flashtool to flash stock I think the bootloader doesn't need to be unlocked for official files.
Fma965 - Forgottencoders.co.uk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since the screen was showing the logo when booting, I assumed it must be a software issue - just used flashtool and it said everything was successful... but the screen is still the same - and now "SonyEricsson" doesn't come up at the start anymore...

its the screen damage or motherboard problem...i faced thr same issue..take it to sony care
Sent from my R800i using XDA App

I have this same problem.......can it be related to the slider flex cable??? How did you get it resolved your answer really would help me. My location restricts me from returning it and its not under warranty anymore.

jessepow said:
I have this same problem.......can it be related to the slider flex cable??? How did you get it resolved your answer really would help me. My location restricts me from returning it and its not under warranty anymore.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i went to SE care. At first, they told me that they had replaced the display along with the flex cable. Then the phone wouldnt charge. So they changed the motherboard also. But this entire process took over a month. Was really unhappy that they couldnt identify the problem at first. But i wasnt charged any money because of warranty, so its all good. i Suggest you take it to any care center and first get the problem diagnosed. If you are paying for replacing it the motherboard , it is as good as purchasing a new phone.

Had almost the same problem when I slided my phone when it was 3 degrees Celsius "cold". I destroyed flex cable and my screen started to freeze and show random RGB pixellation.
I think it's 99% broken flex or 1% motherboard. I suggest you to give your Xperia PLAY back to Sony if it's under warranty.
Cheers.

its ridiculous I have the same problem when I unlock my phone. i emailed the company i got it from but im still waiting for a reply haven't dropped it or anything, but for now i slide the phone and have to use it like that and even then it the screen flickers a few times.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/849/120223225408.png/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/830/120223225431.png/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/120223225440.png/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/120223225525.png/

I have the same problem, just happened out of no where as the phone has been working fine. It pushed me into buying a GS3 but I still want the play for gaming. I've had mine for over a year and I bought it off ebay so I'm not holding out much hope for warranty.

It is Flex Cable. I had exact same problem, boot logo was showing like normal and then w00t.

hi everyone
same problem as every1 fuzzy screen can anyone be 110% sure it is the ribbon
as my warranty is finished and i have to do it myself

Yeah it's flex cable stuff. I had to get a new phone because of this. When you get it fixed, just start being careful with sliding your phone open.

Erikwithafro said:
Yeah it's flex cable stuff. I had to get a new phone because of this. When you get it fixed, just start being careful with sliding your phone open.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
100% sure?
I hate to bring up a dead thread but I now have 2 plays with this issue...
Pretty sure I can fix it myself...

I had this problem too. You can bring it to your store and give it Tod sony. You will get a new working phone.
Gesendet von meinem R800i mit Tapatalk 2

Flex cable swapped out, Play number 1 successfully fixed. It really wasn't that hard to fix either.

same issue here.. looks like it's a very common issue with the Xplay

Ok, so after I first posted this thread, I brought my play to the nearest repair centre and had it fixed up. However, a few days ago it started back up again... Since its out of warranty ill probably just try fix it myself, but it's kinda creepy that it's almost exactly a year since it first happened...

GTDarthYoda said:
Flex cable swapped out, Play number 1 successfully fixed. It really wasn't that hard to fix either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to bump an old thread but this happened to my phone this week also. I'd like to be able to fix it myself but I have literally no experience with doing such a thing - is it a straightforward case of screwing the cover off and simply replacing the cable or is there certain pitfalls that I should avoid?
My phone is not in warranty (bought second hand) so would rather pay 20 euro for a flex cable on ebay than pay double or triple that to have it repaired.

baddler said:
Sorry to bump an old thread but this happened to my phone this week also. I'd like to be able to fix it myself but I have literally no experience with doing such a thing - is it a straightforward case of screwing the cover off and simply replacing the cable or is there certain pitfalls that I should avoid?
My phone is not in warranty (bought second hand) so would rather pay 20 euro for a flex cable on ebay than pay double or triple that to have it repaired.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have to take the device apart fully, inclusive of the screen half of the Play to replace the ribbon.
Some things you should be aware of are:
- The tiny ribbon cable on the upper side of the motherboard that is connected to the Touchpads. This is EXTREMELY delicate and is an even worse pain in the ass to replace than the main flex cable.
- When putting it back together, ensure the L and R buttons work correctly before screwing it back together again.
- The flex cable is quite difficult to get through the space it's required to go through (you'll see), you have to CAREFULLY twist and turn it to get it in.
- When attaching the flex cable to the motherboard (It's quite difficult to secure it properly as it's such a small gap) be sure not to use any sharp tools or to press too hard. I've killed a new flex cable in the past by doing this.
I've had to replace the cable 7 times so far on 5 different Plays. (None of which have been my own) - Although when my friend's died and he gave it to me to repair, he simply brought a new one anyway and I kept the Play after I fixed it. xD But yeah, very common issue. No idea why it hasn't happened to me yet though. *touch wood*

Thanks for the reply Spizzy.
Hmm seems like there's quite a few pitfalls to taking this on myself - may be best to leave this one to the experts

Battery FAST drain

I've done the battery cycle trick several times (discharge all the way to 0 and then recharge fully to 100), but still having same problem. Even at 100% the battery goes back to critical low in an hour or less. It seems to be the worst when playing games, especially Clash of Clans. That app is more like 30 minutes to dead. If I'm using one of my e-readers, it will stay up for several hours.
Will a new battery fix this or is there something else going on? For example,one thought i had is the onboard battery monitor. Maybe its falsely reporting 100% when battery doesnt have that much in it. Just dont want to mess with wasting the money if a new battery isn't going to get me anywhere. Thanks!
~Vol

Vol4Ever said:
I've done the battery cycle trick several times (discharge all the way to 0 and then recharge fully to 100), but still having same problem. Even at 100% the battery goes back to critical low in an hour or less. It seems to be the worst when playing games, especially Clash of Clans. That app is more like 30 minutes to dead. If I'm using one of my e-readers, it will stay up for several hours.
Will a new battery fix this or is there something else going on? For example,one thought i had is the onboard battery monitor. Maybe its falsely reporting 100% when battery doesnt have that much in it. Just dont want to mess with wasting the money if a new battery isn't going to get me anywhere. Thanks!
~Vol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Clash of clan is the biggest battery drainer like candy crush. With all android platforms.

It drains enough to take a 100% tablet to dead in a half hour or less? Wow.
But that being said, it still seems the battery is draining way faster than it used to with only general day-to-day use.

Similar issue
If it's the same issue as mine a new battery will not help... I've tried.
i am still trying desperately to find a solution. Basically it's like the gauge is wrong. As a simple test I'll charge it up to 100% and start playing a very long youtube video of whatever. After the first 30 minutes it will be down to 90% which I would consider normal. Then over the next 30 minutes it will rapidly drop to 5%. Then the screen dims and it will continue to play for another 3 hours though i can't really see it.
After it dies completely I'll reboot and it'll show me 25% again, but then quickly drops back to 5, dim, and continue playing for another hour or so.
So I can only get about an hour of useful time on this thing.
As stated I tried a new battery to no avail. I've also tried to "recalibrate" using the method you described. As a last resort I rooted and deleted the batterystats.bin file (even though this apparently does nothing).
Now I'm just trying to find a way to override the screen dimming at 5%. I've tried rootdim and a few others but nothing seems to able to override the OS setting on this tablet.
If anyone has any other ideas please please please let me know.

RangerPivot said:
i am still trying desperately to find a solution. Basically it's like the gauge is wrong. As a simple test I'll charge it up to 100% and start playing a very long youtube video of whatever. After the first 30 minutes it will be down to 90% which I would consider normal. Then over the next 30 minutes it will rapidly drop to 5%. Then the screen dims and it will continue to play for another 3 hours though i can't really see .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a common problem of Galaxy Samsung tablets: cracked solders at battery connector.
Quick test to see if you have a badly loose battery connector: slap hard on the back cover with your hand, it won't break the LCD but your tablet will shut down immediately.
If it's the case, re solder the battery connector will fix the problem. Battery's capacity fluctuation is an obvious sign of loose battery connector.

Beut said:
This is a common problem of Galaxy Samsung tablets: cracked solders at battery connector.
Quick test to see if you have a badly loose battery connector: slap hard on the back cover with your hand, it won't break the LCD but your tablet will shut down immediately.
If it's the case, re solder the battery connector will fix the problem. Battery's capacity fluctuation is an obvious sign of loose battery connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. I'll give it a shot.

Battery connector should be take care first before consider relaceing battery. Battery fluctuation is not a problem from itself but its connector.

Okay. Well I don't think there's any way I can resolder that connector. Damn thing is tiny! I can see 6 solder points but they are way too close together.
As an interim attempt I rolled up a piece of electrical tape and stuck it on top of the connector to apply a bit of pressure. Will see what happens.

is there any step by step how to do it?

RangerPivot said:
Okay. Well I don't think there's any way I can resolder that connector. Damn thing is tiny! I can see 6 solder points but they are way too close together.
As an interim attempt I rolled up a piece of electrical tape and stuck it on top of the connector to apply a bit of pressure. Will see what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Electrical tape won't work with solder joints, you can make a temporary fix: lifting the mainboad with a piece of paper under the battery connector; this way may apply presure directly via rear cover. You need a small tip and magnified glass to re solder or ask someone for help or paying a repair shop. It takes less than 5 minutes
and I believe they can not charge over $30 for 5 minutes re work.
---------- Post added at 05:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:25 AM ----------
5oo said:
is there any step by step how to do it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All you need to do: remove the back cover and brings the tablet to a repair shop for re work. Battery is not needed to remove, just disconnect the battery
cable from connector; that's enough space for re work and the heat cannot damage battery's cables.
Don't try yourself if you're not familiar with soldering, especially these six pins are very small and close to other components.
This is the connector needed to re solder after removing the battery
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And watch this video how to remove the back cover
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7PP4tCJGAQ

Beut said:
Electrical tape won't work with solder joints, you need a small tip and magnified glass to re solder or ask someone for help or paying a repair shop. It takes less than 5 minutes
and I believe they can not charge over $30 for 5 minutes re work.
---------- Post added at 05:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:25 AM ----------
All you need to do: remove the back cover and brings the tablet to a repair shop for re work. Battery is not needed to remove, just disconnect the battery
cable from connector; that's enough space for re work and the heat cannot damage battery's cables.
Don't try yourself if you're not familiar with soldering, especially these six pins are very small and close to other components.
This is the connector needed to re solder after removing the battery
And watch this video how to remove the back cover
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7PP4tCJGAQ
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
where is exactly that part where has to be soldered?
well before i replaced battery if i play any game it would go from 100% to 5% like in 30 mins now is like 2 hours most?
I replaced battery thought that woud help? then i rooted and change some ROMS it would help it for a while and it dropped again...
thank you

5oo said:
where is exactly that part where has to be soldered?
well before i replaced battery if i play any game it would go from 100% to 5% like in 30 mins now is like 2 hours most?
I replaced battery thought that woud help? then i rooted and change some ROMS it would help it for a while and it dropped again...
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery connector is the one that you disconnect the battery from mainboard. The solder joints of six pins are needed to re solder.
This one is similar to your tablet because I don't have exactly picture of an open tablet: the black connector in this picture is the battery connector.

Here's a picture of the the battery connector in the note 10 2014 looking top down towards the battery bin.
In the picture the connections "look" okay. nothing obvious but this is a zoomed camera phone pic. Anyway, I'll see if I can find a shop willing to resolder the joints.

The solder joints looks normal with your eyes but may not under microsope. It doesn't hurt to resolder, add as much solders as possible to secure it to main board.
One test to verify if it's bad, it may or may not work. When battery drops, take note of its reading then shut down. With the rear cover removed, hold or press the battery connector with your fingers or hand and turns it on, take note of the battery reading. If the battery level goes up when pressing the connector with your hand, you find the culprit of your problem.
One case I did , battery level went from 7% to 43% after re soldering the battery connector.

Oh wow thanks guys tomorrow I will open note see how is it and then will find a local store, sometimes if I play game I would have 80%play for 30 mins to 50% and then suddenly drop to 20% within few mins

5oo said:
Oh wow thanks guys tomorrow I will open note see how is it and then will find a local store, sometimes if I play game I would have 80%play for 30 mins to 50% and then suddenly drop to 20% within few mins
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Trust me, I already fixed some problems like yours for friends. You replaced new battery but it's the same problem, the only source is connector.
This is not an opinion but personal experiences.

This is old topic, however I would like to wrote for those of you who have the problem with incorrect battery reading, extremely fast battery drain, battery charge level drop....
It is indeed cracked soldering joints of battery connector !
Damn, I have ecountered all above problems for almost one month, so I replaced the battery, but that didn't fix the problem.
Until the day when I wanted to disconnect the battery to do "battery calibration"
And then I saw that the connector is slightly lifted up when I started unplug the battery.
When I looked to the solder joints with the magnifying glass, I saw that they are cracked.
Fortunately, I have the soldering iron with very small tips, so I applied some amount of flux to connector pins and re soldered them.
The problem is fixed ! The tablet is working again, as before. With the battery drain better 8 an 10% per hour, when browsing the Web, watching youtube and so on.
Don't forget to unplug your battery first. And when you will do it, slightly press on battery connector which is soldered to PCB, so you will not tear it appart from the PCB.
Best regards,
Khamzat

I had the same problem for about 2 weeks and I was on the very edge of ordering a new battery. Fortunately I found this thread before doing so and re soldering the battery connector did fix my tablet
Best regards,
Lars

The problem with this tablet is the delicate back plate. All pressure (except when you touch the stiffer rim areas) is transferred to the battery, the metal shields of the pcb and other components touching the back, as maybe the battery plug. This should also lead to the loose display cable syndrome. A case with its own stiff backside will then eliminate such trouble(i have case and none of these problems).
I haven't yet taken a close look at the pics or the actual inside of my Note, but if Samsung was aware of this, there may be some (too small and few) spacers to absorb pressure, but then it would be transferred to the back shield of the display unit, also not recommendable...

screen flicker, screen freezes, and random restarts

I have an Tab S 8.4 LTE. Since upgrading to stock android 5.0.1 (from Sammobile), I have been getting screen flickering, screen freezes, and also random shutdown/restarts. None of that happened on 4.4.2, which the device came with. I've tried the following to correct the problems, with no luck: reinstall 5.0.1, cache wipe from recovery, factory data reset. Is my problem common? Is there a solution? Should I go back to 4.4.2?

A lot of problems you have mentioned is supposedly caused by an faulty/loose battery connector on the 8.4" , a lot of people say it started after upgrading to lollipop which is still not confirmed.
You can try the fix in the link below, but if it is a faulty battery connector a repair is your only real remedy to you problem.
This problem is quite common, have search you might find a more help.
http://www.problogbooster.com/2014/06/on-screen-display-flickering-error-android-xda.html
John.
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Tinderbox (UK) said:
A lot of problems you have mentioned is supposedly caused by an faulty/loose battery connector on the 8.4" , a lot of people say it started after upgrading to lollipop which is still not confirmed.
You can try the fix in the link below, but if it is a faulty battery connector a repair is your only real remedy to you problem.
This problem is quite common, have search you might find a more help.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had this problem. Service center in Poland (CCS) replaced screen and repaired motherboard.
Video on youtube that shows the problem :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iBDVirN_XM

corvus.corax said:
I have an Tab S 8.4 LTE. Since upgrading to stock android 5.0.1 (from Sammobile), I have been getting screen flickering, screen freezes, and also random shutdown/restarts. None of that happened on 4.4.2, which the device came with. I've tried the following to correct the problems, with no luck: reinstall 5.0.1, cache wipe from recovery, factory data reset. Is my problem common? Is there a solution? Should I go back to 4.4.2?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a common problem of Samsung tablet, battery connector is prone to crack: flickering screen, random shutdown/restart, quick discharge, battery capacity fluctuation.
If you look at Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 threats, flickering problem is the same as this model. However, the fix is simple: re solder the battery connector. Go to a repair shop or anyone knows how to re work for assistance , the work takes only under 5 minutes. No need to remove the main board, just disconnect battery cable and do the re work of battery connector's solder joints.
This battery connector is not exactly but similar to yours:

In fact, it did start after the upgrade to Lollipop, so I want to say that, for me, that is confirmed. It never happened prior to that. Nevertheless, it could be a pre-Lollipop problem. Since the unit is still in warranty, I will try to explain the problem to Samsung here. They are usually pretty good about it when I get the chance to talk with a repair tech.

Try this fix in the thread below, it worked foe an Tab S owner the other day with screen flickering.
http://www.problogbooster.com/2014/06/on-screen-display-flickering-error-android-xda.html
John.
corvus.corax said:
In fact, it did start after the upgrade to Lollipop, so I want to say that, for me, that is confirmed. It never happened prior to that. Nevertheless, it could be a pre-Lollipop problem. Since the unit is still in warranty, I will try to explain the problem to Samsung here. They are usually pretty good about it when I get the chance to talk with a repair tech.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Tinderbox (UK) said:
Try this fix in the thread below, it worked foe an Tab S owner the other day with screen flickering.
http://www.problogbooster.com/2014/06/on-screen-display-flickering-error-android-xda.html
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I'll give that a try. It is worth noting that since I put 5.0.1 on my S4, it's been running smoothly.

Sefto said:
I had this problem. Service center in Poland (CCS) replaced screen and repaired motherboard.
Video on youtube that shows the problem :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iBDVirN_XM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be aware that some depot techs are lack of technical skills to troubleshoot correctly, this one is a typical one.
When replacing new screen and motherboard, this guy virtually gave you a new tablet.

Beut said:
Be aware that some depot techs are lack of technical skills to troubleshoot correctly, this one is a typical one.
When replacing new screen and motherboard, this guy virtually gave you a new tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Repaired motherboard But I don't know what exactly they did

Well, I followed the instructions to force GPU screen renderiing and for about a day, it seemed to fix the flicker/restart problem. Then, boom, it came back. So it must be a hardware issue. Off to Samsung I go.

I wonder how hot the cpu gets when the screen starts to flicker, you can download free cpu temp apps from Google Store
John.

I took the tab s to Samsung and they found it was a battery problem. They replaced the battery and all seems well after a week. Now my question is, if I use my S4 charger, which has a little lower output than the tab's charger, will that cause any problem to the battery, beyond slower charging?

Slower charging as you said will most likely problem, use the free app below to check you charging rate, look at the average ma, and press refresh a few time, on the pro version you do not have to press refresh.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.abmantis.galaxychargingcurrent.free&hl=en
John.
corvus.corax said:
I took the tab s to Samsung and they found it was a battery problem. They replaced the battery and all seems well after a week. Now my question is, if I use my S4 charger, which has a little lower output than the tab's charger, will that cause any problem to the battery, beyond slower charging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

That's PERFECTLY WORKS...

vinayak.etx said:
That's PERFECTLY WORKS...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wonder what did you do to fix the problem ?

Soldering worked.
I had the screen flickering problem and also random reboots on Galaxy Tab Pro 12.2 (SM-T900) and figured out that it is probably to do with the battery connector based on this post and an other post. When I opened the back cover and touched the battery connector, it just came out from its position. Samsung did a very poor job in designing this very important component which is the lifeline of the device.
However, following your advice, I first hesitated to solder it myself. I called up a repair guy and explained him that I need soldering the battery connector and he prompted $65 as the cost for it. So I decided to give a shot myself. I tried my hand at it and was able to get it done.
IMPORTANT: The connector ends are very very small and so you would need a soldering iron having a pointed tip. All you would need is to clean the battery connector ends with a hair brush and apply a very thin coating of soldering flux and have the solder lead on the pointed tip. The points on the circuit board are very close to couple of IC's and so be very careful not to touch them at all. Also, the plastic used in the battery connector component is not a good quality plastic and so be very careful in handling it.
Once the battery connector is soldered, I haven't seen any flickering so far and random reboots are gone. So far so good. I shall update this post if I see any deviation or any other update relevant with this issue.
Thank you @Beut for your post and providing insight about the problem.
Beut said:
This is a common problem of Samsung tablet, battery connector is prone to crack: flickering screen, random shutdown/restart, quick discharge, battery capacity fluctuation.
If you look at Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 threats, flickering problem is the same as this model. However, the fix is simple: re solder the battery connector. Go to a repair shop or anyone knows how to re work for assistance , the work takes only under 5 minutes. No need to remove the main board, just disconnect battery cable and do the re work of battery connector's solder joints.
This battery connector is not exactly but similar to yours:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Don't forget that a loose white battery connector also a factor of flickering, usually when disconnected it many times, this white connector may not make good contact with pins of black battery connector. I had one that black battery connector already resoldered but it still flickered at 70% batttery. I did a simple fix by pushing the opening tip closer. Many good batteries were wasted because most users don't know this simple trick, just disconnect and connect battery may fix auto reboot problem and don't know why.
This is what it looks like when a cable removed from the connector:
This is a bad contact, pin sits in the middle of opening of cable clip.
This is the adjustment to make the opening closer:
How to do it with a thin knife:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PU0OoZSbma8&feature=youtu.be
Then, this is a good contact
After the fix of male and female battery connectors ( black and white ), I guarantee that flickering, freeze, auto restart, auto shutdown problems will not return, unless you have a bad battery.

Beut said:
This is a common problem of Samsung tablet, battery connector is prone to crack: flickering screen, random shutdown/restart, quick discharge, battery capacity fluctuation.
If you look at Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 threats, flickering problem is the same as this model. However, the fix is simple: re solder the battery connector. Go to a repair shop or anyone knows how to re work for assistance , the work takes only under 5 minutes. No need to remove the main board, just disconnect battery cable and do the re work of battery connector's solder joints.
This battery connector is not exactly but similar to yours:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi @Beut,
I followed your post and fixed my tab by soldering the battery connector as you mentioned.
Do you happen to know what's the type of battery connector is it? I mean, if I want to buy that connector online, what should I be looking for?
Thanks.
Uresh
replied using Tapatalk

uresh.kuruhuri said:
Hi @Beut,
I followed your post and fixed my tab by soldering the battery connector as you mentioned.
Do you happen to know what's the type of battery connector is it? I mean, if I want to buy that connector online, what should I be looking for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think you can find it online. Re solder is sufficient, no need to replace a new one.
But why you need a new connector ? Broken or damaged ? If you need one I may help you where to find it, but change this connector is not simple as re solder unless you know how and have right equipment like hot air gun, hot plate ...etc....

in a worst case scenario.
Beut said:
I don't think you can find it online. Re solder is sufficient, no need to replace a new one.
But why you need a new connector ? Broken or damaged ? If you need one I may help you where to find it, but change this connector is not simple as re solder unless you know how and have right equipment like hot air gun, hot plate ...etc....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As of now, things are fine. The tablet is working fine even on longer duration of usage like playing videos on YouTube app continuously or video calls. The battery charge is lasting long besides there is no overheating like it happened before when the connector was loose. Thanks again.
However, when the connector got detached earlier, I observed that the plastic used to design that component is of pretty cheap quality and I doubted if it would stand even before I soldered. Anyways, I managed to solder that without breaking/damaging it. My fear is that the plastic base on which the (metal) connector components were placed in side-by-side fashion would disintegrate if when the plastic base gets damaged and that is my worry. I hope you understood my point.
Also, I would appreciate if you point me to any links that would explain a little more about these components.

Huge battery drain - Mondrianwifi

Hi guys, my tablet has been showing some significant battery drain lately. When idle, it drains around 5-10% per hour. At first I thought something was preventing it to go to sleep (according to GSAM the battery is mostly drained by the kernel), but then I started noticing that also when I was using the device the battery drained significantly (20-25% per hour).
I tried the common fixes such as wiping the device, turning off any energy-consuming apps and services (e.g. Google Now, GPS, etc.), battery recalibration and reseating the battery; nothing helps.
I'm running a stable nightly from CM13.0 (I asked in the CM13.0 thread if anyone else has this problem but it just seems to be me), but the issue was also present in other nightlies and in 12.1.
The last option I can think of right now is buying a new battery, but since that would be pretty costly and since I'm not sure that would solve my problem I wanted to run this by you to see if anyone here would have an idea of what could solve it.
Thank you very much in advance for your help!

SeveralBunnies said:
Hi guys, my tablet has been showing some significant battery drain lately. When idle, it drains around 5-10% per hour. At first I thought something was preventing it to go to sleep (according to GSAM the battery is mostly drained by the kernel), but then I started noticing that also when I was using the device the battery drained significantly (20-25% per hour).
I tried the common fixes such as wiping the device, turning off any energy-consuming apps and services (e.g. Google Now, GPS, etc.), battery recalibration and reseating the battery; nothing helps.
I'm running a stable nightly from CM13.0 (I asked in the CM13.0 thread if anyone else has this problem but it just seems to be me), but the issue was also present in other nightlies and in 12.1.
The last option I can think of right now is buying a new battery, but since that would be pretty costly and since I'm not sure that would solve my problem I wanted to run this by you to see if anyone here would have an idea of what could solve it.
Thank you very much in advance for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not ROM related. I am running CM13 and was having the same issues. Take apart the tab, and lift the battery connector vertically. There might be some tape, take that off first. Let tab sit for 5 min, then reconnect. Fixed my issues

ReyDelGuaguanco said:
Not ROM related. I am running CM13 and was having the same issues. Take apart the tab, and lift the battery connector vertically. There might be some tape, take that off first. Let tab sit for 5 min, then reconnect. Fixed my issues
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply! Although I did try dis- and reconnecting the battery, I've tried your advice. It's too soon now to tell now whether it works, I'll check back with you once I know more.

Hello,
Same problem for me: bootloop near 15% battery charge and she never charge more than 90%. I'm sorry but i'don't understand the method to fix this problem.
Thanks

jemsgaelle said:
Hello,
Same problem for me: bootloop near 15% battery charge and she never charge more than 90%. I'm sorry but i'don't understand the method to fix this problem.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This battery connector should be re solder due to hairline cracks, you need a microscope to see it
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Someone just disconnect and reconnect the battery to fix the problem, the white connector has loose connection,
this one needs to be fixed too by adjusting the opening tip of battery cables
Samsung fix the issue of loose battery connection by using this silver conductive glue
This is a repair from Samsung center, they soldered battery cables directly to the connector to fix loose connection,
without knowing this, an average user will damage the mainboard and battery connector while trying to remove the battery.

jemsgaelle said:
Hello,
Same problem for me: bootloop near 15% battery charge and she never charge more than 90%. I'm sorry but i'don't understand the method to fix this problem.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you need to do is take the back cover off the tablet and look for the battery connector, it's basically a few bundled wires that connects the battery to the tablet. You need to disconnect these (I used a pencil to wiggle it a bit, make sure you do it carefully) and let it rest for about 5 minutes. After that, reconnect it and turn your tablet on. That should fix the issue that you're having.
Beut said:
This battery connector should be re solder due to hairline cracks, you need a microscope to see it
*Image*
Someone just disconnect and reconnect the battery to fix the problem, the white connector has loose connection,
this one needs to be fixed to by adjusting the opening tip of battery cables
*Image*
Samsung fix the issue of loose battery connection by using this silver conductive glue
*Image*
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Stupid question maybe, but could this loose connection also be a solution for the drain I'm having?
ReyDelGuaguanco said:
Not ROM related. I am running CM13 and was having the same issues. Take apart the tab, and lift the battery connector vertically. There might be some tape, take that off first. Let tab sit for 5 min, then reconnect. Fixed my issues
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your fix does seem to improve battery life a little bit, but unfortunately I'm still stuck with a pretty big drain. When totally idle it drains 5% per hour, so it dies after about 18 hours of being totally idle.
It should be able to last longer than that right? Any suggestions from anyone are welcome!

You should fix both battery connectors: black male connector needs to be re soldered, white female connector with 6 wires needs to be adjust the opening of battery cables.
Some may need to fix one, not both, but for sure, both need to be fix, the same procedures Samsung repair center will do: fix both connectors.
Regardless what model you have, the same fix applies to Samsung 10.1 and 12.2.
I have been fixed Samsung Note 2014 10.1 ( LTE and Wifi ), Samsung Note Pro 12.2 ( LTE and Wifi ) and Tab Pro 12.2 tablets, they all have the same problem of battery connectors.

Beut said:
You should fix both battery connectors: black male connector needs to be re soldered, white female connector with 6 wires needs to be adjust the opening of battery cables.
Some may need to fix one, not both, but for sure, both need to be fix, the same procedures Samsung repair center will do: fix both connectors.
Regardless what model you have, the same fix applies to Samsung 10.1 and 12.2.
I have been fixed Samsung Note 2014 10.1 ( LTE and Wifi ), Samsung Note Pro 12.2 ( LTE and Wifi ) and Tab Pro 12.2 tablets, they all have the same problem of battery connectors.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how does it cost to fix it without warranty at samsung

It may cost you over $100 for a round trip to Texas.
Anyone or shop who can do the rework can help you with little charge as much as $60. It takes only 5 to 10 minutes to get it done.

Just outta interest, which 'Mode' are you using?
I've found the stock 'Balanced' Mode (cm-13.0), drains my T325 alarmingly fast.* Unless I switch over to the 'Efficiency' Mode, which seems (for me), to work like the old 'Balanced' Mode from cm-12.1 had.
*Alarmingly fast here would be a compleat drop from ~100% to Dead with in 90 minutes. Note I'm less sure if that's the nature of that Mode , or if it's just the stress of coming off a clean install, and the rebuilding the OS up again. But, since moving to cm-13.0 I've been sure to change up to the 'Efficiency' setting. And, so have been enjoying upwards of +7H of use.

Ichijoe said:
Just outta interest, which 'Mode' are you using?
*Alarmingly fast here would be a compleat drop from ~100% to Dead with in 90 minutes. .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery connector problems are not related to software or firmware; quick discharge, battery capacity fluctuations, long charging or never get full charge are all common problems of Samsung tablets regardless whatever you're running or settings

Ichijoe said:
Just outta interest, which 'Mode' are you using?
I've found the stock 'Balanced' Mode (cm-13.0), drains my T325 alarmingly fast.* Unless I switch over to the 'Efficiency' Mode, which seems (for me), to work like the old 'Balanced' Mode from cm-12.1 had.
*Alarmingly fast here would be a compleat drop from ~100% to Dead with in 90 minutes. Note I'm less sure if that's the nature of that Mode , or if it's just the stress of coming off a clean install, and the rebuilding the OS up again. But, since moving to cm-13.0 I've been sure to change up to the 'Efficiency' setting. And, so have been enjoying upwards of +7H of use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was really hoping that that would've been the problem but unfortunately I had already set it to efficiency mode thanks for your reply though!
Although I trust my software capabilities more than my hardware know-how, the issue is getting so frustrating that I'll try Beut's solution. I will report back after I tried it!

[*NEW*] Nexus 5 Battery Upgrade! BL-T19 2700mAh Mod (nexus 5x battery)

The Nexus 5 was produced a while ago, more than 4 years!
But this phone is still fast and I'm using it as my daily device. But there was one problem, the battery!
If you want to replace it you still get an (if you're lucky) an original used battery. If you're unlucky it's a fake one or it was just lying around, loosing all capacity and is at least as bad as the battery you already have.
In 2013/2014 a lot of people managed to press an Lg G2 battery inside the nexus, the BL-T7
BUT this phone and it's battery is very old, like the nexus 5
I tried the BL-T7 Mod, after receiving a lot of fake batterys, I finally got an original one, but yeah, still a 3 years old battery, that was lying around - so it was not good at all, and I lost NFC and Wireless charging
See here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/accessories/3000mah-battery-mod-lg-g2-battery-t3651460/post73284739#post73284739
#############################################################################
Here is what I got for you:
On Ebay, I was looking for a new phone (because of bad battery life) and I found a perfectly fine looking Nexus 5x for 20€, the seller said it won't turn on. I ordered it and i did not manage to repair it, the seller just lied, bc he didn't say it was damaged by water
What I did: I saw the battery, thought about, "hey this is a 2016 battery, original and it may fit"
I ripped it out and really managed to swap this 2700mAh BL-T19 battery with my Lg G2 3000mah BL-T7 battery that was inside my nexus
And holy, THIS BATTERY LIFE! - 5hours SOT under heavy load!: https://imgur.com/a/sOdT0
https://imgur.com/a/HAm8e "normal load"
https://imgur.com/a/x2kXO min brightness, not doing much (only whatsapp), I know that is unrealistic, but at least, it's achievable!!
Benefits:
it's a new Battery (produced in 2015/2016)
NFC working!
Wireless charging working!
The nexus 5x had a lot of problems, a lot of dead phones, and if you're lucky you can buy a defective phone (like me) and get a fully functional battery!!
#############################################################################
NOTE: Use Tape, this is a powerful battery, if the wires touch each other, it may start burning
I won't take any responsibility if your phone get's destroyed!
#############################################################################
How I did this:
this is a BL-T19:
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and this is the one in the nexus 5 (BL-T9):
as you can see, the nexus 5x's is longer, but it's the same width. It's longer than the lg g2's one so i had to make space
I won't make pictures of my mod because i already did it, closed my phone and I really don't want to reopen it did it, see below (5.)
1. Completely disassemble your phone, you need to remove metal from the frame
2. Search a dremel to make space: I have no dremel so I used a DC motor and put sandpaper with zip ties on it (https://imgur.com/a/O7SIU)
3. Now remove metal from the frame, I have here some pictures on my testing phone frame: https://imgur.com/a/53tbX
4. Replace the battery! Do it exacly like here: https://imgur.com/a/Yj7ww
I won't decribe it any further, you may ask for help here or in older threads (Lgg2 battery replacement)
5. Here are some other Pictures I edited for you, the 2nd and third are the important ones! https://imgur.com/a/lpz8W
here are Pics of my mod, don't worry, mine looks a little different because I used another batteryboard because I broke my original one: https://imgur.com/a/8BLVj
6. You're done! try to bootup, close the phone, and be happy about a big battery NFC and Wireless charging!!!
Note that you may have to remove some plastic from the cover that goes onto the mainboard,
#############################################################################

What screen on time did you get using this modification?

anirion said:
What screen on time did you get using this modification?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did that mod yesterday, so I don't know yet
Update: I did my first full charge 2 hours ago, have 1h sot and still 91% left, holy moly
Update 2: 77%, 2.5h sot: whatsapp, browsing and youtube half brightness and an slight overclock to 2.35Ghz (elementalx kernel)
Will report tomorrow after a full day usage because for now i'm gonna load it overnight

Okay my test results are here!
https://imgur.com/a/sOdT0
My display brightness was maxed out most of the time.
5h Sot for an intensive workload is very impressive! I tried everything except gaming to stress the hell out of that battery, and it lasted so long!
I'm gonna test a normal workload and upload pictures here if you want.

wow great work!
I'm still using the hammy as my daily driver and using the first original battery.
will try your mod if I have time and the technician

https://imgur.com/a/HAm8e 7 ****ing hours!

https://imgur.com/a/x2kXO Wow.

.... That seems a little crazy for a battery that has only 400mAh higher capacity than the original 2300.. so.. a 20% boost?

Well, I undervolted and my screen was on low brightness
But my core clock is at 2.35Ghz
It was not a worst case, but it's real
and it's not only 20%, because the original battery is veeery old, you are very lucky if you get one with more than 1700mah left

I doubt any of us were getting 5-6 hours SOT even 4 years ago.. maybe, though. It has been a long time. I'm not doubting you, just wondering out loud how that works out since the math sounds weird.

EricBlade said:
I doubt any of us were getting 5-6 hours SOT even 4 years ago.. maybe, though. It has been a long time. I'm not doubting you, just wondering out loud how that works out since the math sounds weird.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mostly it's because I really tried to get the best Sot, with using it not much. So my phone was a long time on my desk with whatsapp open, and I was only texting.
That's no usual usage, my usual usage was 7 hours Sot, still impressive

Looks difficult to replace mate

sure, it's not the easiest swap.
Bit if you can use a dremel and solder 5 cables there should be no problem
I did my mod in 2h
expect 1h because theres no need to try and error anymore

I picked up a 5x battery and was going to attempt this but holy cow, you have to make about 1cm of room from cutting the frame/plastic covers. That's far more material than I'm comfortable doing... I'd say keep looking for a similarly sized battery since you're manually wiring the electrodes to the mainboard anyway...

retro486 said:
I picked up a 5x battery and was going to attempt this but holy cow, you have to make about 1cm of room from cutting the frame/plastic covers. That's far more material than I'm comfortable doing... I'd say keep looking for a similarly sized battery since you're manually wiring the electrodes to the mainboard anyway...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think you didn't take a look at my pictures, you have to remove everything around it, and reassemble the battery board on the side, if you need one more centimeter, you did something realy wrong
I have an original 5x battery, and I can confirm that theres enough space to fit it in
EDIT: I reopened my phone to fix something up, I made Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/8BLVj

Poor device, looks fried

234herobrine432 said:
I think you didn't take a look at my pictures, you have to remove everything around it, and reassemble the battery board on the side, if you need one more centimeter, you did something realy wrong
I have an original 5x battery, and I can confirm that theres enough space to fit it in
EDIT: I reopened my phone to fix something up, I made Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/8BLVj
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah I did miss that. Once I peeled the battery and swapped boards it appears to fit with trimming just the top and bottom borders.
That said, it still didn't work for me... I must've fried my board because it just keeps booting to the battery icon over and over, even when I remove the battery connections.
Also, in your pics you seem to only have two wires directly soldered to the three pads below the battery connector then another wire going into the battery connector itself... is that right?
Anyone know if there's a way to recover from the battery icon reboot sequence? I'm able to get to the fastboot mode, but if it tries to boot into recovery or system it'll just shut off and go back to the battery icon.

retro486 said:
Ah I did miss that. Once I peeled the battery and swapped boards it appears to fit with trimming just the top and bottom borders.
That said, it still didn't work for me... I must've fried my board because it just keeps booting to the battery icon over and over, even when I remove the battery connections.
Also, in your pics you seem to only have two wires directly soldered to the three pads below the battery connector then another wire going into the battery connector itself... is that right?
Anyone know if there's a way to recover from the battery icon reboot sequence? I'm able to get to the fastboot mode, but if it tries to boot into recovery or system it'll just shut off and go back to the battery icon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's exactly the reason why I now use another battery board. I killed my original one and had the same battery icon reboot problem. And yes one wire is going to the battery connector itself because I broke the pin on the board, but don't worry, It's the same connection. So you can either use the pins or the connector or a mix between
To 'recover' your phone, try to just disconnect the third pin, this is the thermal sensor pin. It's on the board the very left one. Here's a picture with just the + and - connected: https://imgur.com/a/GVPMt

Great mod! I may try it when i get a nexus 5x battery. Btw, how are this golden "wires" called? (The ones that goes from the positive and negative to the board)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

@234herobrine432
What wires did u use?