Develop Bugs

How to replace the data port

Hey guys-- got back from the t-mobile store and they told me the data port is dead (from water damage). It turns on with a fresh battery fine, but apparently I'm getting an error code. That code is probably that the data port is messed up because I can't charge my battery. I'm assuming I have to replace it. Does anyone know of a video tutorial or something that will show me how to do it?
thanks.

the chances of the data port being physically damaged by water is very slim- I think they are trying to tell you the circuitry is faulty. If you had ripped the charger out and bent or broke the port, then I could see it- but water cannot bend or break that way and corrosion is unlikely unless its been sitting a while.
Back to the original subject though, I just replaced a faulty USB port on my friends Moto Q. It wasnt bad, but you need a very small pencil iron (I use a station) and good eyes, otherwise you will bridge the tiny connections and be fubar'd.

gospeed.racer said:
the chances of the data port being physically damaged by water is very slim- I think they are trying to tell you the circuitry is faulty. If you had ripped the charger out and bent or broke the port, then I could see it- but water cannot bend or break that way and corrosion is unlikely unless its been sitting a while.
Back to the original subject though, I just replaced a faulty USB port on my friends Moto Q. It wasnt bad, but you need a very small pencil iron (I use a station) and good eyes, otherwise you will bridge the tiny connections and be fubar'd.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you find the port to replace it with...

find a bricked one on ebay or something..or someone selling one with a cracked screen etc...use it for parts

welp, i've never soldered... guess you gotta learn sometime. ports are bout 25 bucks... Guess I have a new hobby. Or maybe I should just buy an external battery charger... soldering sounds more fun though. Yeah, what i meant by getting an error code is when i plug in the charging cord into the cell phone, I get a red light instead of yellow/orange. But, I have to push up on the cable where i insert it into the port to get anything. So, its not dead, but either dying or drunk....... drunk from oil.... which it swam in... and got sick from. vegetable oil, not motor oil... which would be a waste of oil. Anyways, thanks for the replies and if you stumble upon a vid for the dash, please post it. I found some on blackberries, but not an excaliber.

sorry browser problem (double posted)

my friend sourced his usb port from Mouser (P/N 538-67503-1020) for $1.12 each. I still have one (he got a spare) but I dont have a dash to take apart and compare the pins. I assume they are all the same generic port, but the pin spacing could differ
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=7zcQ9RRVJlhHWuXYKEhKMg==

that's pretty sweet speed. I bookmarked that webpage (dunno why really). I could just always link from here; but anyway, I received a new battery that I ordered before the geniouses at t-mobile told me that a red light is an error code, my old battery is perfectly fine, my data port is broken, and no... a new battery won't fix it. *** what's my point you ask?***
They don't know jack fecal matter. I just popped in the new battery and 1) my phone turned on, 2) my charging light turned orange, 3) my plug doesn't need adjusting to charge the phone, and just now 4) my phone has signaled to my through a pretty green light that the new battery just finished charging.
So, to recap, the guys at t-mobile said my port was fried and that all my problems were due to that. My theory was that oil (and come to find out water) damage caused the battery to malfunction and thereby refused to allow a current to charge it resulting in the errors. Turns out, I was right.
Thanks speed and all for your replies. If I need a cheap miniusb port in the future, I now have a good source. Now, Anyone know if a new lcd will fix the splotchy marks on my screen (look like dark puddle spots). I'll post a pic in a new post in a minute.

Yah you can grab a new LCD off ebay (fairly cheap) and then go to youtube and youtube "fix dash screen" and there is a tutorial on there that will guide you on replacing your screen.

just make sure its the lcd thats the problem- the outer clear part that you can touch is separate, and comes with the case. Mine are scratched to hell on both my Dash's but I refuse to buy new cases to fix them

i dunno what's up anymore
I don't know what to think of this thing anymore. This morning it wouldn't turn on, even though I had the green light on the device as it was plugged in all night. So, I kept fiddling with it hoping it would turn on so I could have ATT do a remote hard reset. Well... it wouldn't cooperate. So, I left it alone. Then this evening I was about ready to bury it and I tried the power button one last time and it turned on. But, the battery was really low and I got the red light again when I plugged it in. I guess the battery got a bit of a charge in itself just sitting there. So, perhaps the t-mobile guys do know what they're talking about. Well... i did actually get the orange light while it was on for that sweet minute, which should mean its charging, but I guess its not actually charging the battery. I suppose the last way to go is external charger. I'll probably pick one up off ebay for 15 bucks.

Electric charge question

I don't know if I am being paranoid, but I feel the slightest tingle/itch in my hand when holding the GNEX (gsm), this is not when the phone is charging just during normal use. Took it back to shop the guys there thought I was crazy
Anyone notice anything similar?

It might be the 3 pogo pins on the side of the phone. Try putting sticky tape over them and see if it changes anything. Some people are just more susceptible to getting shocked than others.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

Certainly can't rule out entirely the possibility that you're feeling something, but the chance is extremely remote.
The battery is a standard LiIon single cell @ 3.7V. When operating, it's probably around 3.5-3.6. That is well below the sensitivity threshold for virtually everyone on skin.
Further, if you were this sensitive, you would have encountered other low voltages that tingled your fingers/hand over and over, so you likely would know what this was already. Heck, if 3.5 volts gives you a tingle, handling a 9V battery would be rather uncomfortable!
It's likely psychosomatic, or maybe some peripheral nerve reaction to the pressure from holding the edge of the phone -- not uncommon when pressure is applied to a narrow ridgeline in the palm or fingers.

Thanks guys. I think I probably am a bit extra sensitive to dc current. I'm just worried that I might have a defective unit. I've been to few shops and the demo units are housed into anti-theft devices so u can't actually hold the phone.

ok, I found that when input the phone in airplane mode I don't feel the tingle. it's got to be a faulty unit. I am going on Holliday in a few hours for a week, will take back to the shop when I return and get them to exchange it.

[Guide] Preventing and what to do if phone get in hardware bootloop (red light)

Hi, I just bought mine Nexus 5x few weeks ago, and 1 day after I started hear about the hardware bootloop problem. It made me scared.
I started searching about the problem and, until now, the conclusion about the problem is the phone gets heat and melt the solders of processor. That's a "comum" problem in LG phones, LG G4 have the same problem.
"-Ok, but, what causes that?"
My opinion, as lay, it is caused by cheap USB-C Cables and/or wall adapter. Fast charger adapters can also be a big problem. (Source: http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/buy-usb-c-cable-wont-destroy-devices/ and https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/in-response-to-the-type-c-cable-discussions.412344/ ) USB-C transfer a lot of power through it, accelerating the process of charging and, consequently, making phone hot. The poor solder who LG's did on the phone start to get melted with the time.
Prevention you can take:
You can make this test in first of all:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x/help/diagnosing-soon-to-bootlooped-phones-t3543830
1- Use only the original cable and wall adapter who comes with the phone
2- Buy only well constructed USB-C cables (maybe it means expensive one, but you will expend more money buying a new phone than a good cable)
3- Keep control of phone's temperature with some app ( I use Cpu Monitor) and never let it exceed 45°C/50°C. If the phone reach this temperature, turne it off immediately (more recommended) or enable battery saver mode.
If the phone suddenly get heat and turn off:
1- DON'T TRY TO TURN ON! Wait until it gets more cold and than try to boot. If it boot, try to make a backup of you important things.
1.1- If the phone is in warranty, send it back and they will send you a new one.
1.2- If not, go to step 2
2- You can try to fix at home. Here are some links:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-5x/help/rld-fix-red-led-death-t3541536
https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=i6eu7OK_4t8
3- If it don't work, you can take the phone to someone who works with this and ask for him to make new solder for the CPU.
If anyone know more tips or even solutions, please, contribute to the thread.
**sorry for eventually grammatical mistakes**

Bad quality soldering is really a common problems. Most of my mobile devices - especially notebooks - died because of this. I guess everybody had the problem once where a laptop get bluescreens more often with time until he finally refuses to boot up. Usually, damaged solder connections from chips to the mainboard are the cause for such problems. The solder connection degrades due to thermal and mechanical stress. With time, more and more micro-cracks are emerging with the result that the electrical resistance is increasing. Thus, signal transmission is distorted and bluescreens or crashes occur more regularly until the device dies.
In fact, a thermal treatment can help! The idea is to melt the solder to gain a reflow of the solder which repairs the micro cracks. Although there are semi-professional reflow ovens available on the market, you wouldn't buy one just to repair one device. But you can try do this by using your oven in the kitchen, a hot hairdryer or (if available) hot air gun. The best procedure (independing of the used heat source) is to disassemble the device, detach the battery (!) and if possible remove plastic parts. If these parts can not be disassembled, you can protect them by wrapping them with aluminium foil (it will reflect heat radiation and thus prevent fast heating of these parts). The best case would if you just have the small mainboard with the soldered chips on it. The start the thermal treatment: turn your oven to max. temperature possible, wait until its pre-heated and put the device into it for around 2-3 min. This time should be sufficient to remelt the solder connection (and repair them) and short enough to overheat the plastic parts. If it didn't work, try again with about 30 s longer duration. If you use a hot air gun try to apply the hot air stream only the soldered regions. Usually you can see if the solder gets hot enough. If its working with a usual hair dryer? I dont't know..
I used the kitchen-oven procedure many times and sucessfully revived many notebooks...

How to charge your Galaxy Note 10+ in "low" temperatures

Hey all, I have had my Galaxy Note 10 for almost a year, and the other day I accidentally dropped it and ever since then I have been getting the message that my phone temperature is too low and that charging would resume when my phone returned to a normal temperature.
So I did some research and found that my phone's temperature sensor is broken and that I would need to get the wireless charging coil replaced as that is where the sensor is located. I also saw that it was a cheap repair and would be covered by warranty. Unfortunately because of the root it would not be covered by warranty and was actually very expensive as the part needed to be imported.
I ran a few tests and apparently my phone is at minus 30 degrees Celsius. When I got a report sensor, it says that it isn't even there. Clearly the sensor is broken. (Look at attached URLs for screenshots)
The strange thing is though, that I can still use my phone whilst it is plugged in. So obviously it can still use power, but not store it in the battery. Because it can still use power and since it is rooted, surely there is a way that I can change the minimum temperature at which the phone can charge? Or delete the piece of software/file that gives jt any limit at all?So I wanted to ask, since my phone is rooted, surely there must be a way I can "override" the error and charge my phone regardless.
So I looked for ways to charge my phone regardless and came across thermal throttling, which I know is dangerous, but surely because my phone isn't actually "low temperature" if it was well managed, it wouldn't be too unsafe? And would thermal throttling even work as I know that it helps to run your phone at HIGH temperatures, but what about low ones?
So the last thing I wanted to say was that with the phone being rooted, is there some app that can allow me to ignore this warning (override it) as there is obviously a file that prevents charging when the temperature is low. Could this file be altered/deleted, or could the while thing just be ignored. Or would thermal throttling work?
Please leave some feedback, anything is appreciated.
Also please link at the attached URLs for screenshots.
https:// we.tl/t-2EfEw150Y9

If that's the only temp sensor for charging you should have it as it won't shut it down if it gets too hot.
A Li meltdown isn't pretty.
Is the bad sensor in the battery???
If so simply replacing the battery might fix the issue

What is the problem?
blackhawk said:
If that's the only temp sensor for charging you should have it as it won't shut it down if it gets too hot.
A Li meltdown isn't pretty.
Is the bad sensor in the battery???
If so simply replacing the battery might fix the issue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The repair centre that I took this phone to said that the MOTHERBOARD was broken. I think they were mistaken as this is not a problem caused by broken motherboard. Research says the sensor is in the Wireless Charging Coil so I might try fix this. but then what is it about the battery? Which part is broken?
And in the meantime is their any way to override this message with a rooted phone (my original question)

It a thermistor on the wireless charging module or a bad connection going to it. A broken multilayered mobo solder trace can be repaired if it's just one trace and it's beginning/end point isn't under a flat pack.
https://youtu.be/b0__poRAZ94

Elaborate
blackhawk said:
It a thermistor on the wireless charging module or a bad connection going to it. A broken multilayered mobo solder trace can be repaired if it's just one trace and it's beginning/end point isn't under a flat pack.
So are you saying that either the connection (on the wireless charging COIL) from the coil to the battery is broken, or the connection port on the battery might be broken? Is it definitely NOT a motherboard issue?
If so does the wireless charging coil/entire phone battery need replacing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

I don't see a listing under sensors for a internal batter sensor... it appears to be external.
I didn't tear it down.
The sensor or connector issue is more likely but not guaranteed.
You could take an ohmmeter to the sensor to check if it's the culprit. It appears to be on the charging coil assembly, right?
If so a cheap fix.

Sensor
Atie578 said:
blackhawk said:
It a thermistor on the wireless charging module or a bad connection going to it. A broken multilayered mobo solder trace can be repaired if it's just one trace and it's beginning/end point isn't under a flat pack.
So are you saying that either the connection (on the wireless charging COIL) from the coil to the battery is broken, or the connection port on the battery might be broken? Is it definitely NOT a motherboard issue?
If so does the wireless charging coil/entire phone battery need replacing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is only one sensor and its attached to the wireless charging coil, that was the case with the s7 edge back in the day. I see no reason why that would be different now. Its purpose is to monitor the battery and coil temps.
Replacing the wireless charging coil should fix it. You should be able to order one for pretty cheap. its could also just be a loose connection. If your warrenty is void then you might as well open it up (if you have the tools and skill) to confirm the wireless charging connector is seated properly into the motherboard. (since you dropped it, its likely its just come loose)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

vitselvarajah said:
Atie578 said:
There is only one sensor and its attached to the wireless charging coil, that was the case with the s7 edge back in the day. I see no reason why that would be different now. Its purpose is to monitor the battery and coil temps.
Replacing the wireless charging coil should fix it. You should be able to order one for pretty cheap. its could also just be a loose connection. If your warrenty is void then you might as well open it up (if you have the tools and skill) to confirm the wireless charging connector is seated properly into the motherboard. (since you dropped it, its likely its just come loose)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This could be true if the service tech was mistaken. All the OP knows for sure is the chipset isn't getting the temp data.
A good repair center -maybe- could do mobo level repairs. Sammy certainly could.
Remember no repairman likes an open box special.
The OP can try replacing the coil but maybe no better off if it needs a mobo. In the back of my mind I still wonder if the battery pack has a temp sensor the phone is using as well. I see no indication of that but it seems like a logical place for it especially given Samsung's history of exploding batteries.
If the OP goes for a battery replacement there's much more risk of damage involved.
Tough call.
Note: A high G impact can even break internal IC connections. A 3 foot drop onto concrete can generate sufficient G loading to do this. So there's that...
A good case spreads the G force loading over a greater timeframe and lessens it by absorbing some of the energy as well transforming it to heat.
These are heavy, expensive phones with very little impact protection. Get a good case like the Bolt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

blackhawk said:
If that's the only temp sensor for charging you should have it as it won't shut it down if it gets too hot.
A Li meltdown isn't pretty.
Is the bad sensor in the battery???
If so simply replacing the battery might fix the issue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe the sensor is on the wireless charging coil
Guys had the issue back on the s8 too

TheMadScientist said:
I believe the sensor is on the wireless charging coil
Guys had the issue back on the s8 too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It be a happy ending if so...
and not the first time a repair tech was wrong.
Maybe the OP could try a better repair shop if they don't feel up to using a heat gun and popping off the back panel. This is one of the easiest repairs for these phones but still requires considerable care to do. Depends on the OP's skill level and having the minimum tools required.

blackhawk said:
It be a happy ending if so...
and not the first time a repair tech was wrong.
Maybe the OP could try a better repair shop if they don't feel up to using a heat gun and popping off the back panel. This is one of the easiest repairs for these phones but still requires considerable care to do. Depends on the OP's skill level and having the minimum tools required.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well said

Don't know if this will help but I have the same problem with my Note 10+. Mine has a cracked back cover and the faulty temp sensor issue seems to emanate from this because as soon as I slapped on a back cover, the issue resolved itself. I'll replace the back cover eventually but it seems the loose panel might be the issue.
Good luck.

Ritpide said:
Don't know if this will help but I have the same problem with my Note 10+. Mine has a cracked back cover and the faulty temp sensor issue seems to emanate from this because as soon as I slapped on a back cover, the issue resolved itself. I'll replace the back cover eventually but it seems the loose panel might be the issue.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Welcome to XDA
There's a temp sensor on the wireless charging coil assembly I believe. There are a bunch of ribbon cables as well, one could be loose or damaged.
Rear covers are cheap, replace it before the phone gets severely damaged. Get a rear cover seal too. Water kills phones.
Always keep the N10+ cased or it will get damaged. The Zizo Bolt is cheap, provides excellent drop protection and makes the N10+ easier to use.

Question Z Fold 3 'Too Cold To Charge' after water damage

Okay, hello XDA Forums peoples! Ive been lurking here for like a decade. I feel bad for bothering you nice people, but now I'm at my wits end with this phone.
Okay, so, long story short:
Z Fold 3, let it run the One U.I. 4 update, bricked the whole phone, wouldnt come back on. This happens a week away from being out of warranty. So i get samsung to agree to let Asurion/uBreakiFix repair it (I almost always fix my own electronics, I hate Asurion, I've had problems dealing with them before, but its free so whatever). Well they get it working, i asked what they did and they were basically like 'uhhh idk'. I assume it was just an 'unplug the battery and plug it back in' kind of thing.
Anyways fast forward to a couple months ago. Im walking along the creek, i always keep my phone in my backpack for safety. Zipper on my backpack comes open some, phone falls out and directly into the water for about 3-5 seconds. Goes black within 15 minutes. Alright, so it seems like maybe the boys who worked on this didnt seal it back properly. Whatever.
I let it dry for about 4 or 5 days. Comes back on, everything works except the front screen's digitizer(which is cool for me, because the inside screen still works fine) and its reporting too cold to charge, so now once the battery runs out i have a new foldable brick! Yay! I check the battery temperature thats reported in settings and its completely fine. I hit it with a hair dryer for like 5 minutes to try and trip the thermometer, and nothing happens.
I tried some cheap shots in the dark, i replace the USB charging board, i replace the wireless charging coil, both of which have thermistors on other older samsung phones, so i figured it was a decent guess. Still too cold to charge.
So I find a schematic, or not exactly a schematic, but like a boardview, i guess. So at least i know where the thermistors are to check them. Theres about 10 thermistors on the main and sub boards. 5 of which are covered by metal shielding which i am just terrified of trying to remove, mainly because i havent done it before. So i check the other half.
The thermistors used in these phones are like inverse, so they have less resistance for higher temps and more resistance for lower temps. If one of them is dead, it will have like "maximum resistance", right? Which would report the coldest possible temperature, right? So that all makes sense, to me at least.
The 5 i can get to with my meter to check, they seem to work completely fine. From what research ive done they seem to be like 100k resistors when measured at ~70 degrees f, and i can watch the resistance go up and down when its cooled or heated past that temperature. Okay, perfect. That all checks out.
Because the other ones are under some metal shielding, i assume theyre most likely fine because any water would have a harder time getting in there. So i skip to the most expensive option so far: i buy two replacement batteries. The schematics do not include the battery, so i dont know where the thermistors are on my current batteries to check them, if that was the problem.
Well, batteries came yesterday, i pop them in, still too cold to charge. I've already ran the phone dead checking it, so i cant do any further diagnostics with the phone on. And now the most i get is a Yield sign with a thermometer in it when i plug it in.
Okay, so... Idk?? This problem is starting to get over my head. What do y'all think? It seems like my options are becoming more limited and expensive.
I can try and put a big blob of solder on the top of the shielding and pull it off to check the remaining thermistors, which seems to be how people remove those things. I also have have hot air at my disposal, which is always risky with tiny things because too high airspeed might blow components away on the board and then i'll probably cry.
It could just be a connector somewhere on some flex cable? Maybe? I mean like maybe what if one of them is for reporting temperature, and water corrosion is stopping it from sending a signal through???
Im fine with doing whatever, but i just want a charged battery first so i can recover my data before i do anything that drastic. I mean, back in the day they had 4 big pads on a removable battery. You could buy a universal samsung battery charger or rig a USB cable to charge it, but I have literally no idea what to do here. Does anyone know of some specialized battery charger that will connect to these flex cables?? That would be a gigantic help right now. Or if i knew where to get a Z Fold 3 just to pop it open and charge my battery with? Or maybe just sit there for 2 hours holding two wires to the positive and negative pins?!??!?? I dont know. Someone throw ideas at me, please!

Might be worth buying a bench power supply and either injecting voltage through the phone or connecting it to the cells to trickle charge them back up? Im not an expert it these just throwing ideas