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Rhodium HTC Pro 2 Camera quality very low

The camera quality is very low.
Anyone know software or procedure to improve quality ?

What do you mean, by very low? I find it quite okay for a 3.15 mp. It's not like the 5mp of the diamond 2, or those on nokia phones, but you don't buy a touch pro 2 for the camera, you know?

The only bad photos I've seen from the TP2 are when there's low lighting--the picture gets noise, distortions. Maybe if you posted one of yours and explained how you wanted it improved someone could give you some tips. Otherwise I'd recommend trying some shots in good lighting and see if you get better results.
I've never seen anyone demonstrate the 3.2mp camera of the TP2 has noticeably worse quality than the 5mp camera on D2 with side-by-sides taken under the same conditions. For the sake of people for whom picture quality is important, you'd think some blog would've given that a shot.

There is a good comparison with the HD here (you all would have seen this anyway).
I found if you change the Quality to Super Fine and increase the Sharpness to +5 under Image Properties you will squeeze a little more out of it.
Under poor lighting, you can try and tilt the device around and watch the screen while the lens gains and loses light exposure. Sometimes a small adjustment in camera angle makes all the difference.
Still auto focus and macro functionality is so much better than my Trinity.

It is what is is but I find it pretty good.
Check out the two images attached that I took on the weekend, for a phone cam it's not bad. Definitely better than the majority of 5MP phone cams out there (they pretty much all have the same rubbish sensor anyway.) These were taken with all the settings on standard (didn't know there was a super fine lol)
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evojulz said:
There is a good comparison with the HD here (you all would have seen this anyway).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm amazed at the amount of noise in those TP2 shots, even the outdoor ones. That's not something I've seen in other outdoor shots from the TP2.

There are a number of reasons why the quality is bad on the Pro 2 which I am trying to work out.
1) You cannot change the capture format from JPEG, this means that JPEG compression is noticeably visible. There must be a way to change this otherwise they would not show this option
2) Metering mode algorithms - They suck! simple as that. My Sony Ericsson W800i was better at taking photos than this.
3) Sharpness - you have to play around with it as I have a feeling you either need less of it or more.
4) Resolution - I learnt from my previous phone LG Viewty (5MP) that not always the largest resolution is the best to use on all occasions. So I advise testing out the same shots but in different resolutions, I stuck with 1MP.
I think the camera has potential but the algorithms on the cam driver doesn't perform well enough for such a high end device.
How to compensate for noisy and grainy photos:
Install Noiseware for Windows
Reduce your photo like you should be doing anyway to about 50% of it's original size.
What I do is import my photos into photoshop automatically when the device is connected and I use an action to reduce all the photos in batch processes, then if I want to I'll use Noiseware to reduce some of the noise out from the photo. (Free version you have to do that manually not in PS)
Windows Mobile has Windows Update so I am pretty sure that when Windows 6.5 is officially released there will be some form of a firmware upgrade or service pack that will improve the camera quality, if not then I'm sure the cam driver is accessible for us to edit. Most likely the algorithms would be in hexadecimal format.

I honestly dont think its bad at all, but then personally I didnt buy it with the camera as one of the reasons, but for facebook etc its pretty damn good for the MP.
It is afterall a business device not a SLR.

haha it's a camera phone. The photos are supposed to be shoddy.
Those shots were taken absolutely stock with no tweaking, they are noisy, because it is a phone with a camera unit smaller than a 10p piece and a lense which is minute. They are nowhere near as noisy as in that comparison review posted and so I question the authors ability.
If you buy a phone for a camera then I really do pity you as at best the results are always going to be shocking, i.e the best camera phone is pretty much on par with the average £50 digital camera.

Can we get more users posting some test images?
Im currently deciding on a new phone and this has been on my mind, those comparison shots are pretty shoddy >< dazkeirle loo fine though

Tip: remove back cover and make sure the lense is clean!

Could it be register related?
If so, i took a peek at my registery value for the camera in:
HKLM>Drivers>BuiltIn>Camera>
My sensor type says 4100. Maybe there a different types ?
Maybe it's nothing, maybe it is.

Camera question

Maybe this is an ignorant question. Maybe my search skills have failed me. When I had my Fuze I had the camera set up to take excellent pictures for being taken by a cell phone. ill include a couple pictures taken from both phones for comparison. what im looking for is some advice on settings to use to get better pictures. im running energy rom (built nov 27 09 on OS 5.2.21877) if it matters any. Thanks guys.
From my Fuze:
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And from the Touch Pro 2

The two photos were taken in very different light. To make a valid comparison, get two photos with similar lighting.
A photo taken in low light makes the photo sensor "work harder" - slower shutter speeds, boosting the signal gain, etc - that's what's going on in your TP2 photo. You can see it in the smeared headlights (indicates long exposure) and the signal noise (colored blotches) in the sky.
(This is true of even high-end digital SLR cameras. I'm a semi-pro photographer, and have been dealing with such issues for years now.)
Using a tool called Opanda IEXIF, I can see the EXIF data for the TP2 photo indicates 1/21 of a second exposure (pretty long) and sensitivity setting of ISO 600 (pretty high). There is no valid exposure data in the EXIF for the Fuze photo. Judging from the lighting conditions, I'd guess that it might have been around 1/500 of a second at ISO 200.
HTH,
Mike

Ok I guess what i need help with is some general explanation of the settings. obviously a evening picture and midafternoon day will always come out different even on the same camera. basically on the TP2 they are always grainy regardless of whether its set on basic, fine, ultra fine etc. what are the different ISO options? im assuming that would have to do with shutter speed? i have it set to auto on TP2 so maybe thats where I need to look into making adjustments?

Well ... ISO and shutter speed are separate settings that work together to determine the exposure.
ISO is a setting that deals with the photo sensor's (CCD's) sensitivity to light. Higher ISO numbers make the CCD more sensitive by amplifying the electronic signal from each pixel. Unfortunately, it also boosts the electronic noise, so you'll get more of those colored blotches (digital noise) as you increase ISO.
For the best quality (ie - lowest digital noise) photos, keep the ISO as low as possible. But also understand the trade-off (longer shutter speed).
Lower ISO sensitivity means longer shutter speeds to make up for a less sensitive CCD, and vice versa.
I don't see a way with the TP2 to set the shutter speed. So what's happening is that the camera circuitry is trying to find the best balance it can between low ISO and fast shutter speed. The only way you can really influence it is to take ISO off the Auto setting - your choices are 100, 200, 400, 800. (in photography terms, each doubling of ISO is equivalent to one f/stop of exposure sensitivity. ISO 800 is 3 f/stops more sensitive than ISO 100).
I almost never use my phone for photos, but I'd leave mine on Auto ISO, Quality Fine, Image Properties (Contrast/Saturation/Sharpness) to taste, Metering Mode: Center Area.
I'm not familiar with the image processing logic in the TP2, but I think the Superfine Quality might introduce "JPEG artifacts" into your photos - funny looking "squiggles" in a clear blue sky, for example. Try it and see. You can always dial it back to Fine.
I find that Auto White Balance pretty much sucks with cell phone cameras. If you can manually set your white balance to match the light you're shooting in (daylight, tungsten, flourescent, etc), your colors will be better.

ISO is sensor sensitivity, so the lower the ISO the better quality pic, but requires more light, higher ISOs will work better in low light, but more noise will ensue, such as in your 2nd pic

ok most pictures i take are either in sunlight or indoors. obviously i also like to get some sunsets if im in a good location. any suggestions? both of you have been helpful so far so THANKS!!

bmc357374 said:
ok most pictures i take are either in sunlight or indoors. obviously i also like to get some sunsets if im in a good location. any suggestions? both of you have been helpful so far so THANKS!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sunsets. Hoo boy, now you're getting into dynamic range of the CCD. The difference between the lightest and darkest parts of the photo.
I'd go for lowest ISO possible (100), daylight white balance, try to get a good exposure for the sky and just understand that you won't get any detail in the foreground - just black silhouettes. Usually when you see a sunset photo with good exposure in the sky and the foreground, the photographer used Photoshop to combine two photos.
Try to brace the phone/camera as you shoot, to reduce camera shake with slow shutter speeds. Set the bottom edge of the phone on a flat surface or something like that.

yeah generally i have it braced on a flat surface that will keep it good and steady. given that it is in fact still a phone, im not looking for perfect pictures just something decent. I dont like keeping a high dollar digital camera with me at all times for those shots that just have to be captured due to crime in the area.again i thank you guys.

leave the settings alone if you dont understand them. just knock the plastic cover off the camera. take a pic with your battery cover on and off. you ll see a huge difference. that damn plastic gets dirty easily.

xcesivemastub8ah said:
leave the settings alone if you dont understand them. just knock the plastic cover off the camera. take a pic with your battery cover on and off. you ll see a huge difference. that damn plastic gets dirty easily.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah except the thing is...im trying to LEARN the settings. huge difference between just taking pictures and wanting to learn what things mean and do.

[Q] Camera guide?

Where can I find a guide or tips for taking best pictures with our Z ?
I especially care about macro photos.
My old sony ericsson c702 with 3mp did way better photos

More light, no flash, and do not zoom. Just my experience.

I don't know of a guide, and I don't do a lot macro photography in particular, but I can give some general tips. I don't even consider myself much of an amateur photographer, much less any kind of expert. But I know a thing or two about general photography, that IMO make a big difference, and a couple tips useful for the G2/Vision in particular.
1) First and foremost, get some basic understanding of how cameras work. IMO this is the number one reason for crappy pictures perpetrated by the huge majority of people with digital cameras. In particular, learn about the exposure triangle. http://www.digital-photography-school.com/learning-exposure-in-digital-photography. You don't have control over aperture and shutter speed on this phone, but knowing what they are, and how they affect your photo is essential to knowing why a photo turns out good or bad (and how to make more of them "good"). You do have control over ISO, so get some understanding of what ISO means (which leads to the tip 2).
2) Set ISO and White Balance manually, if you have time. I know its an inconvenience to change these for each different environment. But if you have time to do it, it really helps. Keeping these on "auto" seems to extend the amount of time it takes for the image to be captured and leads to more motion blur (presumably, since the AI is taking time to do light readings and calculating the "best" settings). Also the settings it comes up with are not always very good, for instance the phone misreads the light type sometimes, and comes up with funky white balance settings.
Use as low an ISO as possible but still controlling motion blur. Higher ISO leads to more noise (analogous to grainier photos with film). But using too low an ISO forces the shutter to be open longer (to let enough light in to capture the image), which increases the chance of motion blur from either the subject moving, or camera shake. Its a matter of finding a balance between the two.
With lots of sunlight, or even partial sunlight, use a low ISO. 100 or 200 is often more than sufficient for daytime photos outside, even on a cloudy day. Indoors, you will have to increase the ISO much higher. Obviously depends on how many lamps are around, and how bright they are. But artificial lighting is much less bright than sunlight than you think. I often go to ISO 800 inside my house (when no sunlight is coming through the windows).
3) As mentioned in the previous reply, avoid flash. Flash is ok for the moments where you absolutely need to capture the shot in a low light "spur of the moment" situation. But for most situations, no flash with high ISO looks vastly better. The flash bathes the subject in a ghastly artificial LED light, overexposes the foreground, and causes the whole background to be underexposed. Just horrible. No flash and high ISO means the shutter will be open longer. But as long as the subject is not moving too much, and you keep the camera still enough, you will get a much nicer photo.
You'll notice that professional photographers will almost always use separate sources of light, or an off-camera flash, and seldom the on-camera flash. The on-camera flash on most all cameras are bad, and in particular the tiny flash units on camera phones are awful.
I heard of a study, where people were polled after viewing a set of Match.com type profile photos. Overwhelmingly, people indicated that the pics taken without flash looked younger and more attractive than the ones taken with flash. Despite the fact that some of the photos were of the same person!
4) Also as mentioned in the previous reply, the more light the better. From the last 2 tips, this would seem obvious. But there is a lot more subtlety to this than most people realize. Simply shifting the angle of the camera, or changing your position by a few feet can greatly influence how much light is entering the lens. One good example is light sources behind the subject, especially windows during daytime. Too much bright light from the background will make the subject underexposed and dark. Getting windows out of the frame of the photo can turn a throw-away shot into a real keeper.
Don't take for granted that cameras work the same way your eyes do, because they don't. Remember the exposure triangle, and use it to your advantage.
5) Brace your camera when possible, to reduce camera shake (especially in low light). In absence of a tripod, be inventive. Prop your elbows on a table, or even put the camera on the table, if you can do so without the table being in the shot. If there is a wall or column nearby, put the side of the camera against it as a brace.
6) Tap the screen to focus. Most of us with Sense know about this feature, but don't use it as much as we should. Aside from portraits, the rule of thirds (http://fixaphoto.homestead.com/digitalcameratips.html) says the best composition often results from the subject not being in the center of the shot. Therefore, since the "normal" auto-focus of pressing the shutter button halfway is center weighted, its sometimes not going to focus on the subject. So tap the screen on the subject before you take the shot. You often won't need to do this, but it can help sometimes.
7) You can force the exposure darker or brighter in Menu>Image adjustments, if you just can't seem to get the exposure right for a given ISO. One example is taking night photos, where you want to focus on streetlights or headlights. The shutter will stay open a long time, and the image will often look much brighter than you intend (and brighter than how you see it with your eyes). You can force it darker by changing the exposure. Again, not something you will often need, but once in a while can make a huge difference.
8) Practice practice practice. Every one of the tips above requires lots of practice and experimentation. With digital cameras, you really can take as many pictures as you like. You're going to end up with a ton of photos to delete. But this is really the only way to learn.
The camera on our phone certainly is not the best. The largest complaint seems to be that HTC phones over-process and create too much noise in the photo. But with the proper technique, it can take decent photos. Hopefully my tips are helpful.

Thanks !!!
Thats a very good guide
My pics are already looking better and I am still testing some options!
here: Maybe I will post some quick resoults
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HiCZoK said:
Thanks !!!
Thats a very good guide
My pics are already looking better and I am still testing some options!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool. Glad it helped.
Which tips are you finding most useful so far?

I am not using flash too much or at all.
Iso at auto - it seems to do a good job
Expousure -1 or even -2 in some situations
contrast and saturation defauly
Sharpness -2 and only sometimes -1
Touch focus
Also sense camera filters are really good! i like depth of field filter with circe which You can use for showing where image point of view should be centering. Kinda artificial focus.

Low light

At the club, at the bar, or just in your mom's basement, nighttime is when you come out to play. Rate this thread to express how the OnePlus 3's camera performs when no or low light is present. A higher rating indicates that the camera sensor "sees" lots of light in dim conditions, and that the resulting photos have minimal noise. A higher rating also indicates that when the flash fires, the resulting photo is evenly-lit without any bright spots.
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!

sucks on this department when compared to those of samsung, iphone or nexus 6p, but is alright... average at best.

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did well at low light
took in my trip, 6p.m with auto, no flash and auto hdr

Low light video (fireworks)

even my old xperia Z3, with all the bad feedback that the camera had, takes better photos in low light conditions.

I'm noticing a pink cast on the corners (worse on the lower right) when trying to take low-light indoors shots.
There's an example which shows what I'm talking about (I made an extreme exposure on purpose in order to make the cast stand out, but you can clearly see it during live preview before taking the shot).
Is my unit defective? Please tell me I'm not the only one

Fatherboard said:
I'm noticing a pink cast on the corners (worse on the lower right) when trying to take low-light indoors shots.
There's an example which shows what I'm talking about (I made an extreme exposure on purpose in order to make the cast stand out, but you can clearly see it during live preview before taking the shot).
Is my unit defective? Please tell me I'm not the only one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty sure I have that too. Only visible when using extreme exposure.

Fatherboard said:
I'm noticing a pink cast on the corners (worse on the lower right) when trying to take low-light indoors shots.
There's an example which shows what I'm talking about (I made an extreme exposure on purpose in order to make the cast stand out, but you can clearly see it during live preview before taking the shot).
Is my unit defective? Please tell me I'm not the only one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This should be high iso values. Next time try change to manual mode and put iso manually.

I know what I'm saying - leave the iso as it is (auto) and play with the shutter speed - between 1/250 and higher the pink cast should be at its peak (given the situation you're indoors).

Check this out. Photo was taken around 10PM at a camping night. I'm happy about it's camera performance. But lowlight crowded scenes could get blurry. I would rate lowlight camera performance for OnePlus3 8/10 if he S7edge gets 10/10.
Neither too good nor too bad.

I think this camera is pretty good in low light. I got some nice (for phone camera) shots using manual settings. First one is taken at midnight, no lights but the moon. Second one from fishing pier, I couldn't even see houses on the beach with my eyes, but sensor actually caught it. Third one is full moon and bioluminescent ocean.
These are all taken without any artificial light. I think this camera has potential.

Just nice..
Manual mode, iso 400, 0.5-1 s shutter speed.. No edit.. Just stock camera..

IMHO low light photos are amazingly good. Much, much better than my old OP2. Here is an example. Deep night with medium city lights.
Auto mode with HQ

can anyone here perhaps explain in simple terms how to use manual mode, in particular ISO?
I use manual mode sometimes but the only thing I change is exposure time in order to get more light into photos in low light scenarios, but I see others modifying ISO as well and I'm not sure why or why not to do that

The higher the iso, the lighter the picture.
But at the same time a higher iso means more noise.
If possible without shaking the phone it is always better to shoot at the lowest iso
and use a longer shutter speed.

2x4 said:
can anyone here perhaps explain in simple terms how to use manual mode, in particular ISO?
I use manual mode sometimes but the only thing I change is exposure time in order to get more light into photos in low light scenarios, but I see others modifying ISO as well and I'm not sure why or why not to do that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not worry about iso if you are not shooting a quick object. Like moving thing. Just adjust shutter speed and let the camera adjust other settings. Find out maximum exposure time you can get without a tripod. Play with E. Time to get the best out of night photos. Increase iso incase of you want to capture quick shot. It would be grainy, but less motion blur. :good:

Usually blurry mess, totally unacceptable. Sure manual settings + tripod, you can make artistic shots, but in day to day use, this camera (or the algorhytms behind) is total rubbish

its (much) worse than my previous Nexus 5x.
People here using manual settings are just kidding us.
I appreciate a good manual mode but auto performance is what i want and 1+3 fails miserably here. Night shots are terrible, my 5x (same sensor with Nexus 6p) beats it by a large margin.

Well. It's definitely better than the iPhone 7 and 6S camera that's for sure. I was shocked to see how poor it's low light performance was.

manual mode works well on oneplus 3...........you just need to keep it on timer

Photo quality

Say "cheese", then rate this thread to express how photos taken with the Xiaomi Mi A3 come out. A higher rating indicates that photos offer rich color (without over-saturating), sharp detail (with all subjects in-focus), and appropriate exposure (with even lighting).
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!

overall quality is excellent. it's flagship-like. the only nit picking I can find is an overall slight softness in the RAW files, and noticeable distortion around the corner/edges. However, it's not egregious and the overall especially low light performance is truly excellent if not the tops. Having that Sony IMX sensor really does wonders in low light, and color renditions are generally excellent as well. I can't wait to have a GCam port for A3. I used a redmi note7 port but the colors tend to oversaturate with rmn7's gcam app. Focus has been quick, though I think the software lacks a bit of polish when it comes to face recognition, something I hope they'll fix, or become fixed with a Gcam port.
The photo qualities are excellent. I can't complain, especially for the price.

Some Photos taken with Mi A3 (Stock Camera)
Regular Mode
https://i.ibb.co/Nmsx1s2/regular.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/L1QsnBG/regular2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/qFsxhnY/regular3.jpg
Night Mode
https://i.ibb.co/0hQY3RD/nightmode.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/Hg5Yqm1/nightmode2.jpg
Ultra Wide
https://i.ibb.co/nDKmQJF/ultra-wide.jpg

Manual camera test at morning light at 5:58 AM,
Observings :
1) Photo got brightened up, by bumping bumping ISO, as the result photo is a bit grainy.
2) Phone screen displayed much punchier image by boosting Contrast and saturation , but the actual photo when uploaded to PC was quite natural.
3) Image size 2.3 MB, image taken through Stock cam. In good lighting conditions Stock cam is able give more control than gcam :cyclops:, gcam needs to be optimized for our A3..hope future gcams support be good
Manual Settings :
All AUTO, Focus - set to manual.
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nandakis4 said:
Manual camera test at morning light at 5:58 AM,
Observings :
1) Photo got brightened up, by bumping bumping ISO, as the result photo is a bit grainy.
2) Phone screen displayed much punchier image by boosting Contrast and saturation , but the actual photo when uploaded to PC was quite natural.
3) Image size 2.3 MB, image taken through Stock cam. In good lighting conditions Stock cam is able give more control than gcam :cyclops:, gcam needs to be optimized for our A3..hope future gcams support be good
Manual Settings :
All AUTO, Focus - set to manual.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where do u live? Because this spider looks so scary ??

seities said:
overall quality is excellent. it's flagship-like. the only nit picking I can find is an overall slight softness in the RAW files, and noticeable distortion around the corner/edges. However, it's not egregious and the overall especially low light performance is truly excellent if not the tops. Having that Sony IMX sensor really does wonders in low light, and color renditions are generally excellent as well. I can't wait to have a GCam port for A3. I used a redmi note7 port but the colors tend to oversaturate with rmn7's gcam app. Focus has been quick, though I think the software lacks a bit of polish when it comes to face recognition, something I hope they'll fix, or become fixed with a Gcam port.
The photo qualities are excellent. I can't complain, especially for the price.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you share some DNG raw files?
Thanks!

Camera is amazing especially with that Ultrawide lens. You won't be disappointed at all

Awesome Camera quality for the price
Yeah, I'm using this phone for about 10 days now, and I must say the pictures from those cameras are very good. Even the selfie cam produces sharp photos with good colors. And the video from front cam is crispy. Didn't test video footage from back camera but I'm sure it'll be impressive too. I installed GCam & the picture quality got a solid upgrade (both main & front cameras), color processing, dynamic range everything got even better. Very satisfied

Hello ti all, But which gcam you use bon Xiaomi mi A3? How to know which is the best ? Mi A3 have API 2 open but not all the APK of gcam are ok right?
Thank you
Christian

Xhrist said:
Hello ti all, But which gcam you use bon Xiaomi mi A3? How to know which is the best ? Mi A3 have API 2 open but not all the APK of gcam are ok right?
Thank you
Christian
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you find any Christian?

Please can anyone tell how much is the max exposure time (shutter speed) you can do with the rear and front camera?
And it does come with cam2api enabled by default?

ushiyama said:
Please can anyone tell how much is the max exposure time (shutter speed) you can do with the rear and front camera?
And it does come with cam2api enabled by default?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It comes with cam2api. On Android 9 max for rear camera was 32 secs, at the moment on Android10 it's 0.5 secs (I just hope Xiaomi will fix this).

My Results with from Mi A3
Hi,
I'm hereby attaching my real world camera results from my Mi A3 camera.
Thanks.