Develop Bugs

Rhodium HTC Pro 2 Camera quality very low

The camera quality is very low.
Anyone know software or procedure to improve quality ?

What do you mean, by very low? I find it quite okay for a 3.15 mp. It's not like the 5mp of the diamond 2, or those on nokia phones, but you don't buy a touch pro 2 for the camera, you know?

The only bad photos I've seen from the TP2 are when there's low lighting--the picture gets noise, distortions. Maybe if you posted one of yours and explained how you wanted it improved someone could give you some tips. Otherwise I'd recommend trying some shots in good lighting and see if you get better results.
I've never seen anyone demonstrate the 3.2mp camera of the TP2 has noticeably worse quality than the 5mp camera on D2 with side-by-sides taken under the same conditions. For the sake of people for whom picture quality is important, you'd think some blog would've given that a shot.

There is a good comparison with the HD here (you all would have seen this anyway).
I found if you change the Quality to Super Fine and increase the Sharpness to +5 under Image Properties you will squeeze a little more out of it.
Under poor lighting, you can try and tilt the device around and watch the screen while the lens gains and loses light exposure. Sometimes a small adjustment in camera angle makes all the difference.
Still auto focus and macro functionality is so much better than my Trinity.

It is what is is but I find it pretty good.
Check out the two images attached that I took on the weekend, for a phone cam it's not bad. Definitely better than the majority of 5MP phone cams out there (they pretty much all have the same rubbish sensor anyway.) These were taken with all the settings on standard (didn't know there was a super fine lol)
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

evojulz said:
There is a good comparison with the HD here (you all would have seen this anyway).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm amazed at the amount of noise in those TP2 shots, even the outdoor ones. That's not something I've seen in other outdoor shots from the TP2.

There are a number of reasons why the quality is bad on the Pro 2 which I am trying to work out.
1) You cannot change the capture format from JPEG, this means that JPEG compression is noticeably visible. There must be a way to change this otherwise they would not show this option
2) Metering mode algorithms - They suck! simple as that. My Sony Ericsson W800i was better at taking photos than this.
3) Sharpness - you have to play around with it as I have a feeling you either need less of it or more.
4) Resolution - I learnt from my previous phone LG Viewty (5MP) that not always the largest resolution is the best to use on all occasions. So I advise testing out the same shots but in different resolutions, I stuck with 1MP.
I think the camera has potential but the algorithms on the cam driver doesn't perform well enough for such a high end device.
How to compensate for noisy and grainy photos:
Install Noiseware for Windows
Reduce your photo like you should be doing anyway to about 50% of it's original size.
What I do is import my photos into photoshop automatically when the device is connected and I use an action to reduce all the photos in batch processes, then if I want to I'll use Noiseware to reduce some of the noise out from the photo. (Free version you have to do that manually not in PS)
Windows Mobile has Windows Update so I am pretty sure that when Windows 6.5 is officially released there will be some form of a firmware upgrade or service pack that will improve the camera quality, if not then I'm sure the cam driver is accessible for us to edit. Most likely the algorithms would be in hexadecimal format.

I honestly dont think its bad at all, but then personally I didnt buy it with the camera as one of the reasons, but for facebook etc its pretty damn good for the MP.
It is afterall a business device not a SLR.

haha it's a camera phone. The photos are supposed to be shoddy.
Those shots were taken absolutely stock with no tweaking, they are noisy, because it is a phone with a camera unit smaller than a 10p piece and a lense which is minute. They are nowhere near as noisy as in that comparison review posted and so I question the authors ability.
If you buy a phone for a camera then I really do pity you as at best the results are always going to be shocking, i.e the best camera phone is pretty much on par with the average £50 digital camera.

Can we get more users posting some test images?
Im currently deciding on a new phone and this has been on my mind, those comparison shots are pretty shoddy >< dazkeirle loo fine though

Tip: remove back cover and make sure the lense is clean!

Could it be register related?
If so, i took a peek at my registery value for the camera in:
HKLM>Drivers>BuiltIn>Camera>
My sensor type says 4100. Maybe there a different types ?
Maybe it's nothing, maybe it is.

How do we better our camera?

Is it just a horrible camera or is it something that can be fixed through software? I have 7 friends with evo's we will all put up $50/ea or so some im sure will pay more to the developers paypal account if we can get better picture quality on the front and back cameras.... Please we are begging ANYONE who can do it i will pay the bounty to.

You would probably have better luck spending that $50 on photography lessons or buying some decent post-processing software. Firmware isn't going to make you or your friends any better photgraphers.

I used my Evo while on vacation, and a good quality point and shoot. Both cameras took equally great pictures. Try to limit the use of the zoom, as it doesn't turn out well.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App

as a former pro photographer. (not tooting my horn, just explaining)
QUALITY comes from both the photographer and the camera. More megapixels doesnt mean better QUALITY. it means larger IMAGE. you want better QUALITY get a larger SENSOR, notice the words in caps here people.
Some facts about the camera, from what i can tell by use, not spec sheets, if someone wants to provide one that'd be great, i didnt find one, but i didnt look too hard.
Its a telezoom lens, meaning it has focal length (mm #) greater (AFAICT) than that of the human eye. minimum focus distance is about 6-8" and its got a digital zoom (bleh).
Digital zoom for those that dont know will crop out part of the photo and enlarge the rest, digitally. Which is fine up to a point, after this point you end up with pixelation and bleh images.
As for taking better pictures, go read some rules on composition (the rule of thirds) and if its your cup of tea color scheme and color interaction.
Ive taken some nice photos with this camera. Just a nice rooftop with some desaturation. BAM
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

i just dont see why we would have to photoshop our pictures to make them look better the brights are to bright the darks are to dark its just foolishness the only downside i have with this phone is the camera/picture quality

mikeyfg said:
i just dont see why we would have to photoshop our pictures to make them look better the brights are to bright the darks are to dark its just foolishness the only downside i have with this phone is the camera/picture quality
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
who said anything about photoshop. that was in camera. if the highs/lows are too much, check your settings.
If you want i have plenty of other samples. Go back, read my previous reply, you might learn something.

nenn said:
who said anything about photoshop. that was in camera. if the highs/lows are too much, check your settings.
If you want i have plenty of other samples. Go back, read my previous reply, you might learn something.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is there a good online resource for learning to set white balance adjustments and those sort of things on a camera? I've always had a fascination with photography, but I admit I use P&S and automatic settings because I have no idea what those settings do...

fldash said:
Is there a good online resource for learning to set white balance adjustments and those sort of things on a camera? I've always had a fascination with photography, but I admit I use P&S and automatic settings because I have no idea what those settings do...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the best resource to learn how to change those settings honestly is your camera manual. the next best resource to learn how they work, is to play with them.
a good book will teach you the basics. The Photographers handbook 3rd Edition is the book i used and it will teach you a ton about manual settings and basic SLR/dSLR usage. not to mention film development and i think printing technique.

I leave the iso on 100 all the time (less grain), and toggle back and forth on WB, daytime for outside pics and auto for everything else.

i have no problem with the camera i toy with the settings and take some really good photos with my camera !
not sure what people are *****ing about

Also maybe a higher class memory card

I'll have to agree with the OP. The camera on the Evo is really a let down. They got us excited with the 8 megapixel hype but it really was a let down. Same thing with the camera on the Hero. Honestly I think my Pre takes clearer pictures. It's not even in the same class as the iPhone 4 and this is coming from somebody who has bashed it since day one, but after looking at some pics and videos taken from my friend's iPhone I was literally blown away. Couldn't believe they came from a phone and not a expensive digital camera. HTC dropped the ball in that department.

Iphone has a better screen, have y'all tried cm roms, his camera app is way better than sense

im on cm6 rc2 still grainy no matter what...

My mistake his video camera app is better, there's people working on it I'm sure, I don't think its too bad myself

mikeyfg said:
im on cm6 rc2 still grainy no matter what...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No way, lower your ISO to 100 (top config button, scroll down). Clean is day.

The camera is that bad? Really?
Here's a pic I took at Niagara Falls:
http://tinypic.com/m/be99qq/3
I'm FAR from a photographer, but some of the pics I get are at least as good as an entry level point and shoot - which is more than I expected out of it.
Some tips I have:
-make sure you are holding the phone still so the autofocus can adjust properly.
-after you hit the shutter button, make sure you hold still until it's really done taking the picture otherwise you may blur the image

fldash said:
No way, lower your ISO to 100 (top config button, scroll down). Clean is day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where do you see ISO?
my top config button displays Focus Mode and Exposure.
I'm also on CM6 nightlies
Thanks

That menu scrolls down.
Sent from my HTC Supersonic (EVO) using XDA App

Scroll down inside that setting box, there are tons of settings inside that top box...

[Q] Camera guide?

Where can I find a guide or tips for taking best pictures with our Z ?
I especially care about macro photos.
My old sony ericsson c702 with 3mp did way better photos

More light, no flash, and do not zoom. Just my experience.

I don't know of a guide, and I don't do a lot macro photography in particular, but I can give some general tips. I don't even consider myself much of an amateur photographer, much less any kind of expert. But I know a thing or two about general photography, that IMO make a big difference, and a couple tips useful for the G2/Vision in particular.
1) First and foremost, get some basic understanding of how cameras work. IMO this is the number one reason for crappy pictures perpetrated by the huge majority of people with digital cameras. In particular, learn about the exposure triangle. http://www.digital-photography-school.com/learning-exposure-in-digital-photography. You don't have control over aperture and shutter speed on this phone, but knowing what they are, and how they affect your photo is essential to knowing why a photo turns out good or bad (and how to make more of them "good"). You do have control over ISO, so get some understanding of what ISO means (which leads to the tip 2).
2) Set ISO and White Balance manually, if you have time. I know its an inconvenience to change these for each different environment. But if you have time to do it, it really helps. Keeping these on "auto" seems to extend the amount of time it takes for the image to be captured and leads to more motion blur (presumably, since the AI is taking time to do light readings and calculating the "best" settings). Also the settings it comes up with are not always very good, for instance the phone misreads the light type sometimes, and comes up with funky white balance settings.
Use as low an ISO as possible but still controlling motion blur. Higher ISO leads to more noise (analogous to grainier photos with film). But using too low an ISO forces the shutter to be open longer (to let enough light in to capture the image), which increases the chance of motion blur from either the subject moving, or camera shake. Its a matter of finding a balance between the two.
With lots of sunlight, or even partial sunlight, use a low ISO. 100 or 200 is often more than sufficient for daytime photos outside, even on a cloudy day. Indoors, you will have to increase the ISO much higher. Obviously depends on how many lamps are around, and how bright they are. But artificial lighting is much less bright than sunlight than you think. I often go to ISO 800 inside my house (when no sunlight is coming through the windows).
3) As mentioned in the previous reply, avoid flash. Flash is ok for the moments where you absolutely need to capture the shot in a low light "spur of the moment" situation. But for most situations, no flash with high ISO looks vastly better. The flash bathes the subject in a ghastly artificial LED light, overexposes the foreground, and causes the whole background to be underexposed. Just horrible. No flash and high ISO means the shutter will be open longer. But as long as the subject is not moving too much, and you keep the camera still enough, you will get a much nicer photo.
You'll notice that professional photographers will almost always use separate sources of light, or an off-camera flash, and seldom the on-camera flash. The on-camera flash on most all cameras are bad, and in particular the tiny flash units on camera phones are awful.
I heard of a study, where people were polled after viewing a set of Match.com type profile photos. Overwhelmingly, people indicated that the pics taken without flash looked younger and more attractive than the ones taken with flash. Despite the fact that some of the photos were of the same person!
4) Also as mentioned in the previous reply, the more light the better. From the last 2 tips, this would seem obvious. But there is a lot more subtlety to this than most people realize. Simply shifting the angle of the camera, or changing your position by a few feet can greatly influence how much light is entering the lens. One good example is light sources behind the subject, especially windows during daytime. Too much bright light from the background will make the subject underexposed and dark. Getting windows out of the frame of the photo can turn a throw-away shot into a real keeper.
Don't take for granted that cameras work the same way your eyes do, because they don't. Remember the exposure triangle, and use it to your advantage.
5) Brace your camera when possible, to reduce camera shake (especially in low light). In absence of a tripod, be inventive. Prop your elbows on a table, or even put the camera on the table, if you can do so without the table being in the shot. If there is a wall or column nearby, put the side of the camera against it as a brace.
6) Tap the screen to focus. Most of us with Sense know about this feature, but don't use it as much as we should. Aside from portraits, the rule of thirds (http://fixaphoto.homestead.com/digitalcameratips.html) says the best composition often results from the subject not being in the center of the shot. Therefore, since the "normal" auto-focus of pressing the shutter button halfway is center weighted, its sometimes not going to focus on the subject. So tap the screen on the subject before you take the shot. You often won't need to do this, but it can help sometimes.
7) You can force the exposure darker or brighter in Menu>Image adjustments, if you just can't seem to get the exposure right for a given ISO. One example is taking night photos, where you want to focus on streetlights or headlights. The shutter will stay open a long time, and the image will often look much brighter than you intend (and brighter than how you see it with your eyes). You can force it darker by changing the exposure. Again, not something you will often need, but once in a while can make a huge difference.
8) Practice practice practice. Every one of the tips above requires lots of practice and experimentation. With digital cameras, you really can take as many pictures as you like. You're going to end up with a ton of photos to delete. But this is really the only way to learn.
The camera on our phone certainly is not the best. The largest complaint seems to be that HTC phones over-process and create too much noise in the photo. But with the proper technique, it can take decent photos. Hopefully my tips are helpful.

Thanks !!!
Thats a very good guide
My pics are already looking better and I am still testing some options!
here: Maybe I will post some quick resoults
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

HiCZoK said:
Thanks !!!
Thats a very good guide
My pics are already looking better and I am still testing some options!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool. Glad it helped.
Which tips are you finding most useful so far?

I am not using flash too much or at all.
Iso at auto - it seems to do a good job
Expousure -1 or even -2 in some situations
contrast and saturation defauly
Sharpness -2 and only sometimes -1
Touch focus
Also sense camera filters are really good! i like depth of field filter with circe which You can use for showing where image point of view should be centering. Kinda artificial focus.

Technical post about camera aperture

Hi guys! I don't know if someone already post something about...
I'm quite expert in photography, i got a good experience in serveral years of photoshots with my canon 350D and later Canon 40D, so i would like to espose a technical issue of the nexus camera.
You maybe need some skill in photography to understand all, i assume you know the basis.
I notice that nexus camera shot photos ONLY at f/2.8, that is also the maximum aperture of the lens. For those who knows the general rules of photography this just sound not good.
Maximum aperture (our case F/2.8) is needed when you shot with low light situation, but for other situation, in daylight, shot at f 2.8 reduce the depth of field and also the sharpness of the detail in picture, because the lens works better when you close the aperture to an high numer ( f 4 or f 5.6). This more closed aperture would be better for ALL picture you take in daylight, results as more detailed picture and a general better sharpness.
I do some test for understand how the camera work, but there is no situations where the camera shots at different aperture... if you take a photo with strong sun light (at 12.00 ) camera take f 2.8 aperture and, for not burn the light, 1/3400" time !!!!!! like you take photo at F1 cars in action !!
Obviusly, if you shot a landscape you don't need a SO FAST time (landscape did't move ) but you need a close aperture for obtain a better picture!
i hope it's clear (sorry for english....)
Now, what we can do? can the camera shot at more close aperture? or it's an hardware limit? (it would be strange however...)
maybe we can tell google to take a look at this "problem"

You're forgetting something, the 'lense' is most probably an f/2.8 prime, it's not going to have aperture blades so it can't possibly change f/stop.
The only thing we could change if there were manual settings are ISO and shutter speed.
After having a play for five minutes it looks to me like the Nexus has a prime aperture of f/2.8, a maximum shutter speed of ~1/3400th of a second and 1/17th of a second is the slowest. The ISO ranges from 50 to 650.
It's pretty crappy, I'd love to have manual ISO and shutter speed controls, it would make cell phone cameras much more interesting to use for sure.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Let me just say one thing:
ITS A PHONE
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA

Kalavere said:
You're forgetting something, the 'lense' is most probably an f/2.8 prime, it's not going to have aperture blades so it can't possibly change f/stop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok understand, i was thinking that is present an electronic shutter that is able to "simulate" the change of aperture..
so we must take this as fix aperture... and so it's not possible to have feature for manual speed control, you risk to get under or over exposure... maybe it could be sync with iso, but i don't think we get a good results...

There are no moving parts in the camera lens, so no zoom or aperture control. The aperture is fixed, so therefore the only control we have is shutter and ISO. Sadly this means the DoF is fixed for any given focal distance.
However, f/2.8 is not so bad as it sounds. The DoF is related to the aperture size and the focal length of the lens (hence the f/x in the aperture - f is the focal length!).
Because the lens on your phone is tiny and mounted very close to the camera sensor, the focal length of the lens is also very small, particularly when compared to an SLR camera where the lens is mounted some distance away from the sensor, so has a much larger focal length.
The result is, an aperture of f/2.8 on a phone camera will have similar DoF to a lens on your SLR at around f/8 to f/11 i.e. around the mid range. Also, because the lens if effectively a prime lens with fixed aperture, they can optimise the lens for those parameters, so you have less compromise than you would have on a typical zoom lens for your SLR.
One thing to always remember though, is that its a phone first and a camera second. You shouldn't expect SLR performance from a phone! There are other camera apps out there than can give you a bit more manual control than the standard app, but you'll never be able to control the aperture! With the standard camera, you can however adjust the brightness level by +/-3 EV in 1 EV steps - tap the settings icon, then the +/- icon, then you can set the exposure compensation level.

Fixed aperture. Can't change it. Very small focal length means wide DOF.

CrashV5 said:
ok understand, i was thinking that is present an electronic shutter that is able to "simulate" the change of aperture..
so we must take this as fix aperture... and so it's not possible to have feature for manual speed control, you risk to get under or over exposure... maybe it could be sync with iso, but i don't think we get a good results...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not possible to simulate a change of aperture, you'd need blades to do it. It's just a feeble 3.43mm f/2.8 prime. You'd end up with a hulk of a phone if you tried to introduce aperture blades to the little CMOS. I don't even think it would be possible on such a small sensor.

Kalavere said:
You're forgetting something, the 'lense' is most probably an f/2.8 prime, it's not going to have aperture blades so it can't possibly change f/stop.
The only thing we could change if there were manual settings are ISO and shutter speed.
After having a play for five minutes it looks to me like the Nexus has a prime aperture of f/2.8, a maximum shutter speed of ~1/3400th of a second and 1/17th of a second is the slowest. The ISO ranges from 50 to 650.
It's pretty crappy, I'd love to have manual ISO and shutter speed controls, it would make cell phone cameras much more interesting to use for sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. That would be great!!

Low light

At the club, at the bar, or just in your mom's basement, nighttime is when you come out to play. Rate this thread to express how the OnePlus 3's camera performs when no or low light is present. A higher rating indicates that the camera sensor "sees" lots of light in dim conditions, and that the resulting photos have minimal noise. A higher rating also indicates that when the flash fires, the resulting photo is evenly-lit without any bright spots.
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!

sucks on this department when compared to those of samsung, iphone or nexus 6p, but is alright... average at best.

{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
did well at low light
took in my trip, 6p.m with auto, no flash and auto hdr

Low light video (fireworks)

even my old xperia Z3, with all the bad feedback that the camera had, takes better photos in low light conditions.

I'm noticing a pink cast on the corners (worse on the lower right) when trying to take low-light indoors shots.
There's an example which shows what I'm talking about (I made an extreme exposure on purpose in order to make the cast stand out, but you can clearly see it during live preview before taking the shot).
Is my unit defective? Please tell me I'm not the only one

Fatherboard said:
I'm noticing a pink cast on the corners (worse on the lower right) when trying to take low-light indoors shots.
There's an example which shows what I'm talking about (I made an extreme exposure on purpose in order to make the cast stand out, but you can clearly see it during live preview before taking the shot).
Is my unit defective? Please tell me I'm not the only one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty sure I have that too. Only visible when using extreme exposure.

Fatherboard said:
I'm noticing a pink cast on the corners (worse on the lower right) when trying to take low-light indoors shots.
There's an example which shows what I'm talking about (I made an extreme exposure on purpose in order to make the cast stand out, but you can clearly see it during live preview before taking the shot).
Is my unit defective? Please tell me I'm not the only one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This should be high iso values. Next time try change to manual mode and put iso manually.

I know what I'm saying - leave the iso as it is (auto) and play with the shutter speed - between 1/250 and higher the pink cast should be at its peak (given the situation you're indoors).

Check this out. Photo was taken around 10PM at a camping night. I'm happy about it's camera performance. But lowlight crowded scenes could get blurry. I would rate lowlight camera performance for OnePlus3 8/10 if he S7edge gets 10/10.
Neither too good nor too bad.

I think this camera is pretty good in low light. I got some nice (for phone camera) shots using manual settings. First one is taken at midnight, no lights but the moon. Second one from fishing pier, I couldn't even see houses on the beach with my eyes, but sensor actually caught it. Third one is full moon and bioluminescent ocean.
These are all taken without any artificial light. I think this camera has potential.

Just nice..
Manual mode, iso 400, 0.5-1 s shutter speed.. No edit.. Just stock camera..

IMHO low light photos are amazingly good. Much, much better than my old OP2. Here is an example. Deep night with medium city lights.
Auto mode with HQ

can anyone here perhaps explain in simple terms how to use manual mode, in particular ISO?
I use manual mode sometimes but the only thing I change is exposure time in order to get more light into photos in low light scenarios, but I see others modifying ISO as well and I'm not sure why or why not to do that

The higher the iso, the lighter the picture.
But at the same time a higher iso means more noise.
If possible without shaking the phone it is always better to shoot at the lowest iso
and use a longer shutter speed.

2x4 said:
can anyone here perhaps explain in simple terms how to use manual mode, in particular ISO?
I use manual mode sometimes but the only thing I change is exposure time in order to get more light into photos in low light scenarios, but I see others modifying ISO as well and I'm not sure why or why not to do that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do not worry about iso if you are not shooting a quick object. Like moving thing. Just adjust shutter speed and let the camera adjust other settings. Find out maximum exposure time you can get without a tripod. Play with E. Time to get the best out of night photos. Increase iso incase of you want to capture quick shot. It would be grainy, but less motion blur. :good:

Usually blurry mess, totally unacceptable. Sure manual settings + tripod, you can make artistic shots, but in day to day use, this camera (or the algorhytms behind) is total rubbish

its (much) worse than my previous Nexus 5x.
People here using manual settings are just kidding us.
I appreciate a good manual mode but auto performance is what i want and 1+3 fails miserably here. Night shots are terrible, my 5x (same sensor with Nexus 6p) beats it by a large margin.

Well. It's definitely better than the iPhone 7 and 6S camera that's for sure. I was shocked to see how poor it's low light performance was.

manual mode works well on oneplus 3...........you just need to keep it on timer