Develop Bugs

Samsung Epix Screen Alignment

I did a hard reset, and am stuck at the screen alignment. I installed Remote Screen Alignment, but it appears not to have a setting for the Epix. Also, when I run it, I get an error trying to configure the remote device.
I am wondering if I need to create a .dat file for the Epix. Does anyone know the Epix calibration settings, or some other work around for beign stuck on this screen?
Thanks!

Sorry you didn't get any response faster.
I had the same problem.
I too asked for the dat and others presets.
Guess what if those didn't work the problem is the touch screen digitizer. No way around it, you have to replace it.
It is cheap on ebay $15-19 shipped. I just finished putting it on.
Caution on taking the phone apart. It's not that easy to do so.

Do you have any tips for taking the phone apart?
My digitizer is crazy and I can't get the screen to allign. I'm ready to replace it, but a little weary about taking the phone apart so far.

andy7079 said:
Do you have any tips for taking the phone apart?
My digitizer is crazy and I can't get the screen to allign. I'm ready to replace it, but a little weary about taking the phone apart so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is no resource whatsoever on how to take the phone apart.
I just did it cold turkey. You just can't be afraid.
I took apart an i607 Blackjack before using instructional videos. I think this was a bit easier. Similar and easier.
I did not even refer to those videos again, I just went at it like no ones business. If your scared then you will probably mess up.
You obviously remove the battery tray, battery and sim card
Remove the stylus
Remove the rubber cover nub on the upper left side.
Unscrew all the visible screws. IIRC there are 3 on each side. This is probably one of the tough parts, because each screw looks to have been applied with some loctite material. You really need a proper screw driver. Philips head, but really small. You will see it. If you start stripping the screw, or strip it. START TO GET WORRIED. Because I don't know how you will get it out then. So after you removed all the screws. Do not expect the phone to come off easily.. IT WONT, its like it is still together.
You will need to use some FORCE to pry a small portion of the phone open, and when I say small I mean small because they are clipped together tight.
If you bought the digitizer from EBAY it comes with this
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
That included screw driver is a torx head which is no use to you. But that yello tool is what you need to use to pry the case apart without scratching the case.
So again once you pry a small portion.. I STARTED FROM THE BOTTOM, insert that yellow tool in the opening and run it along the case and it will start to pry open the case apart.
After that, you shall see the board.. this is where my memory gets vague.
I don't think there was any other screws to be removed to remove the board, but there might have been 1.
Anyways on the left side you will see a small ribbon cable that runs through the front of the phone, that is the cable that attches to the digitizer. Unclip it and remove it. Then carefully pry the board until you see the front screen digitizer.
Now you will need to decide how you are going to remove this because it is glued on. Be careful as you will need to use force. The OEM case though IS VERY STRONG. I was flexing that b!tch and it did not crack or snap. Good quality for sure Samsung.
Once you have it removed, you will need to have new adhesive, or be ghetto and just peel apart the one from the old digitizer and reposition it for the new one.
Put the new one, attach the ribbon cable and put phone back together.
Wish I could've taken pictures while I did it, but no one ever seems to speak up about calibration problems I thought I was the only one, and I was eager to install it.

I finally got around to fixing the digitizer. Removing the screws went suprisingly well. There was another screw on the PC board that I removed. I reused the adhesive, but I had to trim some parts of it to get it flat. Overall it went pretty well.

Thank you thank you! I just replaced my i907's digitizer and thanks to your thread, it was smooth sail.
If you didn't write it here, I would certainly feared removing the digitizer with such a force, I'd fear that I'm gonna break the frame. Fortunately, Samsung made it so soft it bends almost any angle without breaking.
It helped to put the frame on the table with a digitizer down, push onto the transparent area of digitizer with fingers (starting in some corner), and slowly pull the frame upwards, away from digitizer.
I recommend this seller: http://myworld.ebay.com/e2_express/ - it was a cheapest i907 digitizer on eBay, with free international shipping for $11, and he included all tools I needed for repair. My Epix now works perfectly (well, apart from ROM, but that's a completely different story, f**k you very much, AT&T .

Replace sceen May 2010
This is actually easier and scarier than it sounds.
Six screws: four at the corners of the battery compartment, one under the rubber plug upper left, and one under the stylus. (When putting back together-be careful with the stylus screw. The stylus goes inside and so will the screw. Time to take it apart, again.)
I could not re-use the adhesive. When I was taking off the old screen, the adhesive curled up longitudinally, tried to straighten, then it balled up. My wife scrapbooks so I used her photo adhesive strips. Not as strong, probably not long term, but I needed to put the phone back together.
Putting the ribbon connector back takes patience. Be sure the "clamp" is open before you start.
If the volume rocker comes off, dammit, there is a tiny hole that fits over a tiny peg, then slide the other end into the tiny slot.
I'm impressed with the inside of my Epix. Pretty amazing how much, and how they cram it in there.

Replacement Ribbon ANTENNA Flex Cable for HTC TP2?

Here's the story, bought a used HTC Touch Pro 2 for cheap and found out that the idiot before me glued the battery cover to the phone!
Apparently when they removed the door, likely to remove their sim card, they damaged a flex cable which i believe is an external adhesive backed antenna. See picture below for broken flex cable antenna.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Now I've taken apart the housing and the antenna just adheres to the housing and has contacts that touch the main board.
What I want to know is where can I buy JUST the antenna ribbon??
Thanks!

And this is why I buy stuff brand new...
eBay could help you. Are you planning on fixing it yourself?

I've looked on Ebay and haven't seen this particular ribbon cable.
Ebay does offer the FULL housing for the TP2 but it is not the T-Mobile version housing.
The full housing they offer does come with the ribbon cables preinstalled but have yet to see anybody convert from the T-Mobile TP2 to the Euro/North American TP2 housing.
Yet, I don't think it would be difficult to convert over but you will need a new digitizer as the faceplates are different as well as the front keypad ribbon cables but the costs are not within reason.

Called HTC today to see an estimate on the repair. They told me from $100-$309 USD.
seriously??..
anyways..apparently my phone is also missing the sticker containing the IMEI and Serial Number..because of this, HTC will not repair my phone.
what to do...what to do..
also contacted www.cellulardr.com and they also required the S/N to order the part.
Anybody kind enough to share their T-Mobile TP2 S/N with me to get the part number? Or even better, contact cellulardr.com and get a part number for me?
THANKS!

If the ESN/IMEI is missing and it was "cheap"... sounds like stolen goods.
Sorry to say, but you got what you paid for... caveat emptor.
The minimum $100 you can spend on getting the part, plus whatever you spent on the phone and your time could have gone towards a legitimate and in excellent shape device. I don't think anybody here is foolish enough to share their S/N with you.

this can easily be fixed and very cheap.
I have an htc magic and replaced the housing cover, and if you remove the antennas(in this case we have to remove de bluetooth and gps antenna to fit on the new cover 'chassi'), but those antennas will get trashed if you remove them, those antennas are just a sticker with some thin metal between a bi-adhesive tape and a paper tape.. a three layer thing with metal in the middle. First I got pissed... why these antennas aren't provided with the housings, or why I can find who sells them... I scratch my head and I thought.. why I don't make the god damn antennas? And I just did, how?
You'll need three things:
- a piece of aluminium foil, that it's used to wrap sandwiches.
- thin Bi-adhesive tape, there are some with 4 or 5cm (2inches), that's what I used.
- Paper adhesive tape. (i used the leftovers of printing cd labels)
With that, u just put the bi-adhesive tape over one side of the aluminium foil (i put it over the polished side of the foil), on the other side, u stick the paper tape, but leave a piece uncovered to make contact with those things that sticks out of the board, then just cut it with scissors with the right shape for the chassi and stick it on it.
I must say that the result with me was brilliant, I get gps signal very fast, even faster than with the original antennas, and with bluetooth, no problem. The wi-fi and network on the htc magic shares the same antenna and it's made of the same material, if needed I'd do the same.
Hope you understand me, my english ain't perfect.
regards

I've unfortunately done exactly what you've said and I removed the GPS antenna tape not realising it was actually important (d'oh!) and as such my GPS no longer gets any signal.
Thanks for writing above about a replacement antenna that could be made, but can you please tell me where on the motherboard the actual GPS contacts are? Sadly I have absolutely no idea where the tape was, I only know that I removed it!
Thanks!

Protecting your USB port on your mobile device

I own a HTC Fuze and am just concerned about its USB port because it might probably get damged from different things, dusts, and rusts.. Unlike new models from Nokia phones, they are now protecting this kinds of ports. so I wondered, how am I able to protect mine? And I thought, "yeah why not just use some old and damaged USB cables and take the connector off" and so I did!
here are some images
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Nice ideia!!! good karma to you!

There are similar if not greater risks to having something permanently in the USB port like that. Be careful not to knock it. If you drop the phone and it hits that USB plug then you run the risk of ripping the USB port off the board (an issue very common in HTC phones - happened to my Kaiser several times).
Something flush would be much better.
I hope it all works out OK for you though.

dazultra2000 said:
There are similar if not greater risks to having something permanently in the USB port like that. Be careful not to knock it. If you drop the phone and it hits that USB plug then you run the risk of ripping the USB port off the board (an issue very common in HTC phones - happened to my Kaiser several times).
Something flush would be much better.
I hope it all works out OK for you though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I thought of that too. After I first tried inserting the "protector" I already noticed it. So I was thinking to flatten it by bending some of it but I just don't have the tools yet to cut and bend the plates.
but this is just version 1

Nullstring said:
Yeah, I thought of that too. After I first tried inserting the "protector" I already noticed it. So I was thinking to flatten it by bending some of it but I just don't have the tools yet to cut and bend the plates.
but this is just version 1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah that would work better
As long as it doesn't stick out any further than the housing or that case you have on there then you should be safe (unless by some freak accident you happen to drop your phone so that the USB port lands directly on a stone or something!)
Nice idea though! I always get frustrated by how dirty my ports get (clean mind please!)

Nice idea

Vigorius said:
Nice idea
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks. still haven't flatten the surface though. .

1 word. iCorkz!
Theres other sites that sell this to. Its a small piece of rubber that fits in usb ports to prevent rust dust damage or water.

Sanatize said:
1 word. iCorkz!
Theres other sites that sell this to. Its a small piece of rubber that fits in usb ports to prevent rust dust damage or water.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
$9.99 is Php 429.20 here Philippines. That's too costly for a small piece of rubber.
I'll stick to my home made.
plus, I want something that it will not be missed placed, so thanks to the small hole in that usb metal connector (not sure what you call that)

Good Idea!! Also, some cell phone cases protect/cover that area until you open it for use.

here's how I plan and flatten that

i don't think you really need to, just give it a good blow, never did any hard on all my mobiles before

Nullstring said:
here's how I plan and flatten that
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks good to me! Nice pic too

jeanclaudevandamme said:
i don't think you really need to, just give it a good blow, never did any hard on all my mobiles before
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Having worked in mobile phone retail before, I have first hand experience of how people can destroy phones.
I used to take a pin into work with me every day because I would always have someone come up to me saying their phone no longer charges. This was because of dust and corrosion on the contacts that I would scrape off with the pin to make it work again. They thought I was a magician!
It's one of the reasons why I'm glad that things like the Nokia POP port, both sonyericsson connectors and the motorola contacts got phased out. They were a nightmare!
Most contacts are now internal, which generally means they're only prone to dust instead of the whole manner of crap they would be subjected to before!

Good idea mate .

Nice and cheaper idea friend but for little devices it's a kinda ugly.. I would go for those rubber things that fit's on the usb port.

[Urgent] flash LED / rigid flex damaged?

Hello everyone.
I have a question for you.
I've send my phone back for warranty because one of the leds stopped working.
Problem occured when my upper flash led became blueish and after a while i couldnt even take pictures with flash because it made photo completely blue.
Eventualy, that led died.
Now i got it back from repair and they wrote down something like that:
"Mechanically damaged phone (bruised), consequently damaged rigid flex.."
So, I am asking what exactly is "damaged" rigid flex? As far as I know, rigid flex is some kind of "tape"-like part of motherboard? Some kind of connector? And if this is true, how the hell could rigid flex be damaged INSIDE OF OUR ALUMINIUM PHONE?? The phone was never disassembled neighter dropped. It has 3 scratches on the back above the battery slot. I got them when i was at the beach and phone slided (not dropped or anything) for about 5cm on the little rocks there, nothing MAJOR really, even the scratches are small. Also that couldnt effect that rigid flex.. And if rigid flex would be damaged, as far as i know, both leds would be gone + camera or some stuff??
Thank you guys for your answers and your time spent reading this
With Love,
miHah

I don't know what that means, it sounds made up. I just replaced my upper board with the LEDs on it icant see it getting damaged any way other than a bad led. The board costs $50 on eBay. Did they charge you? I never send back for warranty they always try to back charge. You can always find the parts on eBay. As you can see they are solders to the board. The black cable connector beside them is the power. Maybe that was damaged?
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App

No they did not charge me anything, they just refused to repair that.
I demanded photos of "damaged" things because I am curious if they even opened the thing. I think they didn't as I am looking at those pics.
Those LEDS and the mainboard looks completely different from yours. Or is it only me?
Also, they provided me the "bruised-phone" photo (reason why they refuse to repair it under warranty). Wanna see?
Thank you for your answers!

They are taking you for a ride, the "Flashlight"/LED cable is under that mylar tape that they didnt even remove. I would complain make them tell you exactly what was damaged. you can see visible damage to the LED.
My phone is a telus the bigger black rubber thing is a noise cancelling mic to the left of the leds you can see the 4 solder points just above your leds.
where the wire i soldered to the board was where the gps antenna connectors was and they are right of the leds on your pic. They are the same board just mine is out on my desk yours was still in the phone.

Those boards are different. Make sure if you have the European DHD that you don't purchase a board for the Telus Desire HD or Inspire.
Is that discolorization on the board from it getting wet or from the LED exploding? Wow, can't believe they refused to repair your phone because of some exterior wear and tear.

It was never exposed to water or steam or anything. The closest incident it could get wet was once when I took a shower it was in my bathroom while there was a little steam on the high level of the room but that couldn't have had any effect on anything.
LED Exploding? How could this happen?

Agoattamer said:
Those boards are different. Make sure if you have the European DHD that you don't purchase a board for the Telus Desire HD or Inspire.
Is that discolorization on the board from it getting wet or from the LED exploding? Wow, can't believe they refused to repair your phone because of some exterior wear and tear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These boards are almost identical. The only difference is the noise cancelling Mic. I have a telus desire hd and replaced the board with a euro. One. It worked perfect.
Just watch the teardown video and replace it your self. It takes awhile, but not real hard to do. Took me about 1/2 hour.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App

report them to:
http://www.zps.si/o-nas/zveza-potrosnikov-slovenije/index.php?Itemid=362
http://www.uvp.gov.si/si/
maybe it would work just threatening to do it. it has helped me in the past, but on compleatly different case

N7 Repair - what electronics are IN the bezel?

So.... I had a VERY tough week at work and was exhausted, stumbling getting out of my car... and dropped my Nexus 7 (LTE!!!)... Screen was still fully visible but non-responsive and glass extremely shattered over the entire surface.
Like an IDIOT, I believed some of the tips and only ordered the glass/digitizer and not the LCD. Well there's $50 down the tube as you CANNOT separate them without destroying the LCD (do not believe anyone who says otherwise)..
So.... Hairdryer would not soften the glue at all so I had to buy a heat gun. On the lowest setting (for safety) it barely softened the glue and required a LOT of persuasion to get the glass loose. The LCD was (as pointed out by those who have actually done this) destroyed in the process... OK, now $100 for the full glass/LCD combo.
However, I have ONE huge concern. During the process, the bezel on the top got overheated and the plastic is damaged. The bezel still snaps securely to the back. However, I noticed there is a small circuit board *inside* the bezel with three metal contacts. What is that? Is it possible that's damaged? The plastic around it shows definite signs of heat damage. Since you CANNOT order a replacement bezel for a N7 2013, and since this is an LTE device, I'm pretty committed to fixing it still. But I'm nervous about ordering parts with the damaged bezel if there are irreplaceable electronics that have been damaged inside the bezel...
So... my question: What is that circuit board that is molded inside the bezel with the metal contacts? What are the odds it was destroyed?
(Posting photos in a few from the phone)

Here are the pictures.
In one side you can see the contacts. The other side the circuit board in question is visible in a small opening.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
EDIT: I looked at the part from iFixit, and the bezel is quite different on the LTE model from the Wifi model. It appears that this is the wifi antenna ... the bottom of my bezel has another similar one which is probably part of the LTE antenna. ... so the question is, what are the chances the heating damaged the wifi antenna... not sure what I think about a 4G only tablet...
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

UPDATE
Okay... I figured out the wifi antenna (and LTE 4g antenna at bottom?) are actually stickers... it appears they're not damaged as best I can tell. Hope so. The bezel is warped noticeably at one end, but it still snaps into the back side of the case just fine, and the circuit bords fit. So hopefully... *crosses fingers*... it is still repairable.
Honestly, at this point though, I wish more people who had actually DONE the repair would have suggested that it is NOT something to be done by end users. Reassurances that it's "easy if you follow the directions" are highly misguided. At this point I would have paid ASUS for a repair and come out ahead, once you count the resale value of a device that now has a visibly damaged bezel if I even get it working again. I've never had a problem repairing devices in the past, but this one is not as easy as so many "guides" make it sound.
I should have realized sooner that most of those who said it is easy are also in the business of selling glass/digitizers (USELESS!!!) and LCD/Glass/Digitizer combos.

quite similar experience to what i had trying to repair my old n7 glass, only did i order the glass/lcd combo from the beginning. cracked it while trying to fit it in the warped bezel tho.

Yeah, breaking glass due to the warped bezel is what worries me. Unfortunately the LTE bezel appears to be different than the WiFi, so buying a cheaper one and swapping the bezel doesn't appear to be an option either.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk