Develop Bugs

Help needed: How to get in to bootloader without camera button.

Last night´s party was pretty good, but my beloved kaiser ended in the floor after flying 10ft. Now I am having some issues with the hardware buttons, especially with:
°Camera- just not working, and nedded to bootloader aka tricolor screen
°Phone answer- not really needed, I can answer via touchscreen
°Settings- some times work, some other no.
°D-Pad down - just down not working, center top left and right works well.
°OK- some times work, some other no.
°Keyboard P,O,L, Del not working.
So, I am in deep ****, especially because I want to get a new nbh loadeed, but I cant get in to the bootloader using camera+reboot.
Any Ideas? Thanx!

get a new one? that seems pretty rough. right now on ebay you can find one for around $50 if your patient

You might have loosened the cable, or the cable might be damaged. I've dropped my Wizard once, and this happened. Turns out the cable got loose.
The Kaiser has a cable inside, that moves when you open and close the keyboard. This cable can also easily wear out, or accidentally pulled.
I pulled this image from Kaiser Service manual PDF. You can easily see the connector and cable for the front. As you can see, it's pretty easy to loosen the connector from an accidental drop. BTW, Kaiser Service Manual will tell you step by step in how to take apart the Kaiser. You will need a Torx screw driver T5 and T6, not to forget one extremely small Philips screw driver.
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Just reconnect the cable. I recommend getting contact cleaner to lube and clean it first. You can pick up one of these at your local radio shack. Wonderful stuff. Good idea to spray every connector you come across.
Also, if you damaged any of the plastic (like I did) you can repair it easily with a soldering pen, and extra broken plastic lying around. I dropped my Kaiser once, and chipped off a piece of plastic. Nothing wrong with the phone, but cosmetically it annoyed me. Easily took it apart and repaired it with my soldering iron, and some extra pieces of black broke plastic. Just remember the front bezel (where the screen is) isn't plastic, but metal. The center and back is made out of plastic, that btw melts easily to a soldering iron.
Here's an example of some guy repairing a bike doing this. Do it right, and it's strong. Do it wrong, and it'll break easily under stress.

Thanks for the advice. I'll try it tonight.
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Yesterday I disassembled my Kaiser, and cheched all the cables, but it didn't work. Still the same issues.
So I want to know if there is a way via software thru android to get in to the tricolor screen.
I am using kallt kaffe's nbh and eclair.
Thanks!
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no not with android sorry.
if you know how to solder, try resoldering the leads for the camera button.

If the cable wasn't the reason, then you may have to take apart the front screen itself. The front screen is a mess of connections, so you may wanna check them.

I went the whole way dismembering the Kaiser. Cleaned all the connections, and checked all were in place.
Still no luck.
I believe something went really wrong in the motherboard in the last drop.
It´s a shame 'cause this is a very nice piece of hardware and have been with me for the last 3 years.
Maybe its time to use the AmEx and get a Nexus One.
Thank you guys for all the help.

Just a note on this, if the keypad or dpad were the only things with issues, I'd have suspected the main flex also, however as the camera button is firmly fixed to the mainboard, then the damage must have been more serious.
Afraid it might take a lot of serious disassembly and probably a few hours with a microscope to find any fractured connections, which is the usual type of damage after heavy impact. Also the connector for the main flex and the camera button are both on the same side of the mainboard.
I feel your pain, it's one thing to honourably retire a device for an upgrade, but losing one in action is a different thing altogether

Thank you guys for your help. As we speak I am unboxing mi new x10.
If anyone thinks my old kaiser could be used as a spare parts, i can send it for free, just you pay the shipping fee.
THANKS A LOT. I am moving to the X10 xda forum
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Hey, I'm experiencing the same issue. I can boot to android, but nothing I do will get to the bootloader. Zenity tried to help also (thanks!)
I've got a HD2 for me with WM and 2.2, this is for the boyfriend (his first android).

captivate back cover

is there anywhere i can get a back cover for a captivate

wow,not even one reply. at&t is sending me a captivate but it doesnt have a back cover,my tilt 2 keep on acting up and they tried to give me the motorola backflip,i said no way. so they r sending me a captivate for free without the back cover and battery and charger. i already ordered the battery and charger. thx for info

aren't you a big boy now

..................

TopDogg1 said:
is there anywhere i can get a back cover for a captivate
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dont think you can buy them yet mate. Im looking for one too! Im sick of the portruding Galaxy S logo on the back and dont like the mock carbon fibre look.

Yeah... I would love a new back without the Galaxy S logo. The faux carbon fiber pattern has grown on me but it really wouldn't go with the argyle TPU case that I'm most likely going to get.
It's like most phones are designed by two teams of industrial designers. One wants to make the phone as sleek and minimalistic as possible, then the other comes in afterwards and slaps as much branding and gaudiness as possible.

Anyone want to sell let me know I needed one bad thank you.

just get a TPU case and a back cover is not really necessary. Maybe get one thats not translucent...

You should be fine for a while with just a standard solid color TPU case, the back of the captivate has a sliding piece that actually holds the battery and everything in place with the back off.
Hell, it even looks cool to have the insides exposed with a clear TPU case!
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Just order one from Samsung
I called Samsung today and ordered a back cover. $10.81 and I should have it in 3-5 business days. I was already registered on their website, so I just went to the service request section and chose "other." I was given a phone number and ticket number. It still took about 15 minutes on the phone, but I got it ordered.

would love a real carbon fibre matt back cover!

From the simplicity of the back cover it seems that it wouldn't take much to just fabricate one. The speaker cutouts could be basically any design with the right hand and a dremel tool.
It would look really cool if someone made one from anodized aluminum. There are two contact points on the back though, does this have to do with the antenna for the device?

Coldskiesfullofblue said:
From the simplicity of the back cover it seems that it wouldn't take much to just fabricate one. The speaker cutouts could be basically any design with the right hand and a dremel tool.
It would look really cool if someone made one from anodized aluminum. There are two contact points on the back though, does this have to do with the antenna for the device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it does. It may not, but I know before I'd take the cover off and the phone wouldn't connect to the network. It may just be a coincidence though.

some phones do use the cover for an antenna, i havent noticed any ill effects without it. ive software bricked many times and ill leave the cover off in the trouble shooting and reflashing process, phone still gets signal.
ok i just dismantled my phone (seriously). there is a cast metal chassis that is atached to the screen. there is copper plating on the back of the plasitic frame in a strip that stretches from one end of the phone to the other under the screws that are above the battery box and appear to help form a connection from the board to the chassis and connect to the round pin that contacts the back cover.
in my experience it appears to be a ground point probably for shielding. the second contact is probably for redundancy, it directly goes to the board but im not going to atempt to trace it's path.
the cover seems to be aluminum for anyone that has the idea of making a new one. or stripping the black off. the galaxy s is a feature stamped into the back. you may be able to mill or file or sand it off but beware you may go through.

Just got off the phone with Samsung. Seems they are out of backplates for this phone at the moment and will be contacted when they're available again.
Stupid me, accidentally dropped the dumb backplate when switching batteries and got a small dent.

You know what would be awesome? Getting a Giorgio Armani i9010 backplate for my phone.

[Urgent] flash LED / rigid flex damaged?

Hello everyone.
I have a question for you.
I've send my phone back for warranty because one of the leds stopped working.
Problem occured when my upper flash led became blueish and after a while i couldnt even take pictures with flash because it made photo completely blue.
Eventualy, that led died.
Now i got it back from repair and they wrote down something like that:
"Mechanically damaged phone (bruised), consequently damaged rigid flex.."
So, I am asking what exactly is "damaged" rigid flex? As far as I know, rigid flex is some kind of "tape"-like part of motherboard? Some kind of connector? And if this is true, how the hell could rigid flex be damaged INSIDE OF OUR ALUMINIUM PHONE?? The phone was never disassembled neighter dropped. It has 3 scratches on the back above the battery slot. I got them when i was at the beach and phone slided (not dropped or anything) for about 5cm on the little rocks there, nothing MAJOR really, even the scratches are small. Also that couldnt effect that rigid flex.. And if rigid flex would be damaged, as far as i know, both leds would be gone + camera or some stuff??
Thank you guys for your answers and your time spent reading this
With Love,
miHah

I don't know what that means, it sounds made up. I just replaced my upper board with the LEDs on it icant see it getting damaged any way other than a bad led. The board costs $50 on eBay. Did they charge you? I never send back for warranty they always try to back charge. You can always find the parts on eBay. As you can see they are solders to the board. The black cable connector beside them is the power. Maybe that was damaged?
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Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App

No they did not charge me anything, they just refused to repair that.
I demanded photos of "damaged" things because I am curious if they even opened the thing. I think they didn't as I am looking at those pics.
Those LEDS and the mainboard looks completely different from yours. Or is it only me?
Also, they provided me the "bruised-phone" photo (reason why they refuse to repair it under warranty). Wanna see?
Thank you for your answers!

They are taking you for a ride, the "Flashlight"/LED cable is under that mylar tape that they didnt even remove. I would complain make them tell you exactly what was damaged. you can see visible damage to the LED.
My phone is a telus the bigger black rubber thing is a noise cancelling mic to the left of the leds you can see the 4 solder points just above your leds.
where the wire i soldered to the board was where the gps antenna connectors was and they are right of the leds on your pic. They are the same board just mine is out on my desk yours was still in the phone.

Those boards are different. Make sure if you have the European DHD that you don't purchase a board for the Telus Desire HD or Inspire.
Is that discolorization on the board from it getting wet or from the LED exploding? Wow, can't believe they refused to repair your phone because of some exterior wear and tear.

It was never exposed to water or steam or anything. The closest incident it could get wet was once when I took a shower it was in my bathroom while there was a little steam on the high level of the room but that couldn't have had any effect on anything.
LED Exploding? How could this happen?

Agoattamer said:
Those boards are different. Make sure if you have the European DHD that you don't purchase a board for the Telus Desire HD or Inspire.
Is that discolorization on the board from it getting wet or from the LED exploding? Wow, can't believe they refused to repair your phone because of some exterior wear and tear.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These boards are almost identical. The only difference is the noise cancelling Mic. I have a telus desire hd and replaced the board with a euro. One. It worked perfect.
Just watch the teardown video and replace it your self. It takes awhile, but not real hard to do. Took me about 1/2 hour.
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App

report them to:
http://www.zps.si/o-nas/zveza-potrosnikov-slovenije/index.php?Itemid=362
http://www.uvp.gov.si/si/
maybe it would work just threatening to do it. it has helped me in the past, but on compleatly different case

N7 Repair - what electronics are IN the bezel?

So.... I had a VERY tough week at work and was exhausted, stumbling getting out of my car... and dropped my Nexus 7 (LTE!!!)... Screen was still fully visible but non-responsive and glass extremely shattered over the entire surface.
Like an IDIOT, I believed some of the tips and only ordered the glass/digitizer and not the LCD. Well there's $50 down the tube as you CANNOT separate them without destroying the LCD (do not believe anyone who says otherwise)..
So.... Hairdryer would not soften the glue at all so I had to buy a heat gun. On the lowest setting (for safety) it barely softened the glue and required a LOT of persuasion to get the glass loose. The LCD was (as pointed out by those who have actually done this) destroyed in the process... OK, now $100 for the full glass/LCD combo.
However, I have ONE huge concern. During the process, the bezel on the top got overheated and the plastic is damaged. The bezel still snaps securely to the back. However, I noticed there is a small circuit board *inside* the bezel with three metal contacts. What is that? Is it possible that's damaged? The plastic around it shows definite signs of heat damage. Since you CANNOT order a replacement bezel for a N7 2013, and since this is an LTE device, I'm pretty committed to fixing it still. But I'm nervous about ordering parts with the damaged bezel if there are irreplaceable electronics that have been damaged inside the bezel...
So... my question: What is that circuit board that is molded inside the bezel with the metal contacts? What are the odds it was destroyed?
(Posting photos in a few from the phone)

Here are the pictures.
In one side you can see the contacts. The other side the circuit board in question is visible in a small opening.
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EDIT: I looked at the part from iFixit, and the bezel is quite different on the LTE model from the Wifi model. It appears that this is the wifi antenna ... the bottom of my bezel has another similar one which is probably part of the LTE antenna. ... so the question is, what are the chances the heating damaged the wifi antenna... not sure what I think about a 4G only tablet...
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

UPDATE
Okay... I figured out the wifi antenna (and LTE 4g antenna at bottom?) are actually stickers... it appears they're not damaged as best I can tell. Hope so. The bezel is warped noticeably at one end, but it still snaps into the back side of the case just fine, and the circuit bords fit. So hopefully... *crosses fingers*... it is still repairable.
Honestly, at this point though, I wish more people who had actually DONE the repair would have suggested that it is NOT something to be done by end users. Reassurances that it's "easy if you follow the directions" are highly misguided. At this point I would have paid ASUS for a repair and come out ahead, once you count the resale value of a device that now has a visibly damaged bezel if I even get it working again. I've never had a problem repairing devices in the past, but this one is not as easy as so many "guides" make it sound.
I should have realized sooner that most of those who said it is easy are also in the business of selling glass/digitizers (USELESS!!!) and LCD/Glass/Digitizer combos.

quite similar experience to what i had trying to repair my old n7 glass, only did i order the glass/lcd combo from the beginning. cracked it while trying to fit it in the warped bezel tho.

Yeah, breaking glass due to the warped bezel is what worries me. Unfortunately the LTE bezel appears to be different than the WiFi, so buying a cheaper one and swapping the bezel doesn't appear to be an option either.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Battery case disassembly (EB-TN930)

Out of curiosity, boredom, and a couple touches of stupidity, I picked up one of the official Samsung battery cases for the original Note 7 to mess around with. I knew going in that it wasn't fully compatible with the FE, but I figured for $7 I might as well take a look and see if there was anything I could do to make it work.
Unfortunately, due in combination to me lacking the proper tools and Samsung's undying love for using strong adhesive to seal together 92% of all products they make, I (probably) took a couple SMDs off the logic board while disassembling the thing. At least, that's my best guess, as it now isn't recognized by my FE at all and just blinks all 4 power indicator LEDs at me. But I figured I'd at least post some pics of the disassembly for you fine folk in case someone smarter (or dumber, who knows) can figure this thing out.
If you decide to go down the disassembly route, just remember that there is a battery inside. One of the same type that made the FE's predecessor go explodey. One that'll make your day substantially worse if you manage to puncture it. Just remember that before you take your screwdriver and go Edward Stabbyhands on everything.
Not sure if this is the right section to be posting in; my apologies if it's not.
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Step 1) - Remove cover with FCC markings (hereon referred to as "FCC cover")
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This cover is held on solely by adhesive.
Grab something very small and sharp; in my case I used a small jeweler's screwdriver and a folding utility knife. Take the screwdriver and wedge it between the FCC cover and the outer plastic case. There's a hard plastic cover underneath the FCC cover, so don't be afraid of damaging anything underneath.
Using the screwdriver as a lever, pry the FCC cover up just enough to get the knife inside; from there, just cut through the adhesive holding the FCC cover to the hard plastic cover underneath. There's significantly more adhesive at the top of the case (near the camera cutout), so I'd recommend starting this procedure from the bottom of the case.
Step 2) - Undo screws
Unscrew the 9 screws seen below. Pretty self-explanatory.
Step 3) - Remove hard plastic cover underneath FCC cover
This cover is held on by a combination of adhesive (around the edges only) and plastic clips.
After unscrewing the screws, repeat step 1) for the hard plastic cover underneath the FCC cover. Since this cover is much more rigid than the FCC cover, you'll need to apply more strength than in step 1). What helped for me was basically chipping away at one edge of the cover until I made a gap large enough to insert my screwdriver into; from there I just pried the cover up enough to get one of my fingers under, after which I just ran my finger around to undo the clips.
Note that the guts of the case reside under this cover, so *be careful. Take a look at the pics at the bottom of this post for the layout of things inside before you start this step.*
I started prying up from the top right of the case; now that I know what's going on underneath I would've started anywhere along the bottom half of the case.
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The three main pieces, all together:
Just the guts:
Closeup of PCB:
That's it, go knock yourselves out. I'm a bit knackered right now so lemme know if something above is unclear or if you want me to try doing something else before throwing it away.

as this hasn't been changed since the note 7, any defuncting must be software related, not battery related. Interesting tho.