Gap between screen and frame - Desire General

Has anyone noticed a gap inbetween screen and frame. I have found a small gap (approx. 3/10mm) on the left side which is not filled up properly by the gasket (right and upper/lower side are ok). I'm afraid that dirt and/or humidity could enter at this place. Just want to know whether this is a common/acceptable issue.

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[Q] A bright, small spot appears on the screen with slight pressure on back or flexed

Specifically, the spot is just left of mid-line and about a 1/3 of the way up from the bottom in portrait mode. If you have the wallpaper of the quill with the scribble (not the ink well), it is just to left of the quill tip. If I press on the corresponding spot on the back or flex the tablet from the sides a bit, a bright spot appears on lighter backgrounds (it doesn't show on dark backgrounds). A white background is back.
Ok, so everyone is going to say don't push or flex the tablet and I agree However, I bought the MoKo rotating case and when I snap it in firmly, this spot appears. I remove the tablet or loosen up the left side of the case, the spot disappears. The case appears to flex the tablet a bit, causing the display issue. I'm going to give another case a try, but MoKo is really the only rotating case, which I really liked.
Since the back of the tablet is "spongy" in this spot and allows it, I was trying to determine if this is a design issue with all of Note 8's or a manufacturing defect with mine. I went to a big box store to test, but they no longer have the Note 8's on display. However, all of the other Samsung tablet models have this issue in one spot or another. It seems Samsung has sacrificed sturdiness for a lower profile. So, I'm wondering if folks can help me determine if I should return this for another unit or deal with it.
I'd try flexing the cover's tabs some to see if I could alleviate the flexing... this is common on all tablets and phones since they are made to be as light as possible these days.
You might be able to heat the case holder with a hair dryer to make flexing/bending it easier.
cawake said:
Specifically, the spot is just left of mid-line and about a 1/3 of the way up from the bottom in portrait mode. If you have the wallpaper of the quill with the scribble (not the ink well), it is just to left of the quill tip. If I press on the corresponding spot on the back or flex the tablet from the sides a bit, a bright spot appears on lighter backgrounds (it doesn't show on dark backgrounds). A white background is back.
Ok, so everyone is going to say don't push or flex the tablet and I agree However, I bought the MoKo rotating case and when I snap it in firmly, this spot appears. I remove the tablet or loosen up the left side of the case, the spot disappears. The case appears to flex the tablet a bit, causing the display issue. I'm going to give another case a try, but MoKo is really the only rotating case, which I really liked.
Since the back of the tablet is "spongy" in this spot and allows it, I was trying to determine if this is a design issue with all of Note 8's or a manufacturing defect with mine. I went to a big box store to test, but they no longer have the Note 8's on display. However, all of the other Samsung tablet models have this issue in one spot or another. It seems Samsung has sacrificed sturdiness for a lower profile. So, I'm wondering if folks can help me determine if I should return this for another unit or deal with it.
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Click to collapse
I've seen this in mine. Definitely pressure flexing back plate pressure on the battery frame. The screws holding the battery will press from the back of the LCD and you'll see a bright dot. Relieve the flex/stress or the dot it permanently bruise.
DizzyDen said:
I'd try flexing the cover's tabs some to see if I could alleviate the flexing... this is common on all tablets and phones since they are made to be as light as possible these days.
You might be able to heat the case holder with a hair dryer to make flexing/bending it easier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DizzyDen,
Thanks for the suggestion. I did try flexing it back into shape, but to no avail.
Chris
dtvboy said:
I've seen this in mine. Definitely pressure flexing back plate pressure on the battery frame. The screws holding the battery will press from the back of the LCD and you'll see a bright dot. Relieve the flex/stress or the dot it permanently bruise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dtvboy,
Thanks for confirming the issue. You are right, the spot does resemble the tip of a screw. I just received the fintie slim case and I no longer have the issue. I miss the rotating stand, but it's better than the distracting dot or damaging my tablet.
Chris
You could also try sanding the flat part of the rotating holder... anything to relieve the pressure it puts on the back of the Note... bending the corners forward on the holder might help as well.

Screen dropped.

I have had my Smartwatch for a week and really like it
But today I noticed that half the screen is no longer flush with the metal frame that surrounds it.
This is affecting the top left of the screen diagonally and is very noticeable when using the screen.
I haven't dropped the watch or handled it roughly at all.
Has anybody else noticed anything similar?
Was it ever flush? Mine is similar to yours, but has been that way since i got it. The raised edges seem to regular to be a flaw
Yes it is very different to how it was, I noticed it because it no longer sits in the strap very well.
The other corner is completely flush with the frame.

screen bulge

My screen is lifting from the device. Video shows it best:
Left side is worse than the right. No battery issues, so I don't suspect it is battery swelling, as some M7's had. My primary concern is it catching on something and smashing the screen, since it is now elevated above the black border. My thought is to apply some epoxy and hold it down - any reason why I shouldn't do that? Could it damage or seep into the glass/screen interface?
Some more pics attached. Third pic shows how I would try to get it back to with some epoxy along the edge.. other options (including just leaving it alone) appreciated.

[Review] GPEL Tempered glass

The GPEL screen protector is fantastic! No dot matrix, full adhesive, comes with 2, affordable, case friendly & no Halo affect.
The black border is just a tad too big, so you lose a row of pixels..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D1CG8QY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MQYCBbYM79AP7
Thanks for sharing the review!
Hello,
Does the black line cut from the sides of the screen ? Or the bottom ?
Thank you !
Al3xxxinho said:
Hello,
Does the black line cut from the sides of the screen ? Or the bottom ?
Thank you !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I currently have this protector, as stated in the OP it cuts off a little on all sides and is it a bit crooked. I have plans to review another screen protector (might be the one) in a new thread soon
So, anyone that sells this internationally for less than 15usd for shipping?
8bitbang said:
I currently have this protector, as stated in the OP it cuts off a little on all sides and is it a bit crooked. I have plans to review another screen protector (might be the one) in a new thread soon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Care to share which one? I just picked up a g7 yesterday, have a SUPCASE UB Pro on order, want to pull the included plastic shield, put on glass.
The gpel sounds good, but I'm interested in seeing what else looks solid. (Not interested in going to the $50 dome glass.)
Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
markfm said:
Care to share which one? I just picked up a g7 yesterday, have a SUPCASE UB Pro on order, want to pull the included plastic shield, put on glass.
The gpel sounds good, but I'm interested in seeing what else looks solid. (Not interested in going to the $50 dome glass.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have 2 g7s one with gpel and dome glass. Do you want a side by side comparsion picture. Either is perfect and has flaws
8bitbang said:
I have 2 g7s one with gpel and dome glass. Do you want a side by side comparsion picture. Either is perfect and has flaws
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, thanks!
Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
Dome is on the left and GPEL is on the right
Dome - doesn't affect the sensors but it's smaller than the actual display. It's a bit too short on the left and right sides. This causes light bleed on the edge of the screen protector. Dust magnet but less likely to have bubbles
GPEL - affects sensors and black borders cut off display and is especially noticeable when watching YouTube videos in full screen pinch. Bubbles can happen
8bitbang said:
Dome is on the left and GPEL is on the right
Dome - doesn't affect the sensors but it's smaller than the actual display. It's a bit too short on the left and right sides. This causes light bleed on the edge of the screen protector. Dust magnet but less likely to have bubbles
GPEL - affects sensors and black borders cut off display and is especially noticeable when watching YouTube videos in full screen pinch. Bubbles can happen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What are the sensor impacts from using the gpel?
Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
markfm said:
What are the sensor impacts from using the gpel?
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Click to collapse
It can cause the display to dim and sometimes turn off like when you raise your phone to answer a call. To be fair all full cover screen protectors are suffering for this flaw. Even OtterBox is getting massive hate for their version and is temporary unavailable.
Just to let you guys know,
You will NOT have the "notch" border pixel line problem if you perfectly align the holes at the top with the sensors, but with a catch: you have to align it with the sensor being more towards the bottom than dead center. My very first screen protector had it more towards the top (basically, the entire protector aligned downwards 1mm, which made the notch very prominent). Then I wasted two more trying to make it bottom aligned. (edit). That fixes the sensor problem and the pixel problem at the top with the notch, unless you are looking down at the phone from above the phone (and who the hell does that?). Unfortunately, perfect alignment is expensive and will cost you several screen protectors since you have to deal with lifting and replanting as well as small nudging WHILE you are in a steamy bathroom hoping for no dust hairs to drop on something. Took me three of them to get it perfect. But I got perfect and I'm pleased.
The left and right sides black bars aren't a problem; the missing pixel line can always be seen by looking to the side of the phone. Just remember to focus on aligning the TOP first (edit) align the ridged sensor so it's almost touching the bottom cutout) and then pressing the top down, then the middle. That's the hard part. This will also cause a few air bubbles on the sides, which means you will have to carefully lift the edges and press outwards to reapply again, and make very sure your fingernails are spotless. That is going to be the risk of dust getting in there, so be careful. Get it perfect then everything will make you happy.
The results are worth it.
Falkentyne said:
Just to let you guys know,
You will NOT have the "notch" border pixel line problem if you perfectly align the holes at the top with the sensors. That fixes the sensor problem and the pixel problem at the top with the notch, unless you are looking down at the phone from above the phone (and who the hell does that?). Unfortunately, perfect alignment is expensive and will cost you several screen protectors since you have to deal with lifting and replanting as well as small nudging WHILE you are in a steamy bathroom hoping for no dust hairs to drop on something. Took me three of them to get it perfect. But I got perfect and I'm pleased.
The left and right sides black bars aren't a problem; the missing pixel line can always be seen by looking to the side of the phone. Just remember to focus on aligning the TOP first and then pressing the top down, then the middle. That's the hard part. This will also cause a few air bubbles on the sides, which means you will have to carefully lift the edges and press outwards to reapply again, and make very sure your fingernails are spotless. That is going to be the risk of dust getting in there, so be careful. Get it perfect then everything will make you happy.
The results are worth it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where's your proof? Both the OP and me have reported information (with evidence mind you) that contradicts your statements.
8bitbang said:
Where's your proof? Both the OP and me have reported information (with evidence mind you) that contradicts your statements.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My proof is me owning the phone and going through 4 GPEL screen protectors before I got it perfect. I paid my dues. And as someone disabled and on SSI and with a fixed income, I don't have money to go through infinite screen protectors, unlike some of you people here.
The trick is to align the "ridged" sensor so that it's (edit: just looked at my phone: the hole aligned at the -bottom- of the ridged sensor, rather than dead center! but not blocked by the edge of the screen protector), sensor bottom aligned and then after that, making sure all the sides are perfectly straight when applying (a LOT harder than you think, even in a steamy shower, because I'm in an old apartment). Took me 4 protectors and cost me over $30 dollars. (air bubbles and dust from me constantly having to re-lift to get the orientation perfect and eventually dust getting under the edges, and I have OCD so I want nothing less than perfection). Might even give GPEL an email and see if they'll send me an extra sample for my troubles. And no, I have no way to take a picture of the phone screen for you.
I forgot that I had it 'bottom' side sensor aligned rather than mid sensor aligned because I spent over 30 minutes in the shower sweating and uncomfortable wasting screen protectors trying to get rid of the notch line and getting it on with air bubbles. I was extremely stressed out, and it's difficult for someone with a metal bar in their spine to have to work that hard. Needless to say the fourth protector (thank god) I got absolutely perfect.
If it's dead center yes you will have a pixel row of the notch visible. So you have to 'raise' the protector upwards by that same pixel space. There's enough cutout to work with to make that work.
This is no problem because the very *BOTTOM* of the phone isn't used by the display (since this is an IPS display; someone mentioned this in a review, compared to OLED), unlike the top, so you have like 1mm of extra room to work with for the cutout (as long as the top sensor isn't blocked by the bottom edge of the protector). The black border at the bottom won't interfere with anything (checked with a screen test in the service menu).
I'll -try- to upload a picture of the phone with my laptop's built in camera if I can later on, but please don't be upset if you don't like the quality. My laptop isn't high definition and isn't made for such precise pictures. 720p isn't going to work very well.
@Falkentyne - thanks for the explanation.
It sounds like the critical part is where the protector is relative to the front mounted speaker (towards the right edge of the notch) front mounted camera (center of the notch), mystery circle to the left of the camera, and tiny notification led circle furthest to the left side of the notch?
If a photo of your own screen is hard to get, I've attached a photo, the top part of the g7 screen. Maybe draw a line showing where the gpel edge needs to be (outside edge of the line = outside edge of the gpel).
This is the best I could do.
markfm said:
@Falkentyne - thanks for the explanation.
It sounds like the critical part is where the protector is relative to the front mounted speaker (towards the right edge of the notch) front mounted camera (center of the notch), mystery circle to the left of the camera, and tiny notification led circle furthest to the left side of the notch?
If a photo of your own screen is hard to get, I've attached a photo, the top part of the g7 screen. Maybe draw a line showing where the gpel edge needs to be (outside edge of the line = outside edge of the gpel).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In your picture, move the screen protector UP about 1mm upwards so the bottom is where the red line is.
This will leave about 1mm of 'extra' space above the sensor area (whatever that thing is, sensor, microphone, I don't know). But it will still fit fully into the enclosure.
Took me 4 screen protectors to do this AND have no spare dust hairs from all the relifting !
Perfect thanks!
Just over the bottom edge of the front speaker (the oval on the right with the grid pattern).
I just got my gpel protectors in today, will give it a try tomorrow.
I installed it following your suggestion, it seems to be working fine. Thanks for the info!
markfm said:
I installed it following your suggestion, it seems to be working fine. Thanks for the info!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad you got it working and got the results you wanted.
It's good that the cutout is slightly larger than the speaker(and sensor/camera) itself, but bad that people won't know about this without experimentation (or somehow coming across the posts here).

Bubble question

I recently acquired a Galaxy Note 8.0 SGH1467 in immaculate condition. After using it for about 1 week there appeared an irregularly shaped 'bubble' at the top right of the screen. It is clear, the LCD image is perfectly visible, unaffected, touch function works. It is annoying and puzzling.
Just curious to know how is it possible for a 'bubble' to form between a LOCA bonded digitizer and the LCD? And it took 6 years?
Perhaps this tab digitizer has been replaced without using LOCA?
I would appreciate your insights and suggestions. Thank you.
Bubble
Update. Definitely an air bubble. I noticed that if I placed the Tab in an upright vertical position, the bubble would rise to the top and almost disappear. Once again...how is it possible for an air bubble to form in or above LOCA? I notice it takes a nuclear weapon to remove the LOCA from an LCD when replacing a cracked digitizer...been here. Make it even more difficult to understand how a bubble can penetrate that stuff..
My digitizer is cracked and I have small but stationary bubbles on the top of the screen. They're not bothering me

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