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I want to take my XDA IIs apart to see if it's possible to;
1) tighten up the keyboard slider mechanism.
2) make the 'stops' that hold the screen in the open position a little stronger. ie screen will not no easilly drop onto my thumbs while typing in bed.
Before I start I thought I'd open the idea up to the forum....Any advice please ?
There seem to be two sets of screws to play with, two T6? on the sides and two smaller screws on the back of the screen ( when opened ) which seem smaller. There are also three screws in the battery bay which I think are not related.
I'll take a few photos while I'm inside and post.
Jeff
That would be really useful as i am thinking of doing the same, mine is starting to loosen (tho o2 are being very nice to me at the moment and offering me a new one!)
dismantled my XDA IIs
ok the phone has been dismantled. You can see a few pics at the following URL.
http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/1081010
They will load full size if you click on them a few times.
I will update the pics later with some text. Some initial observations.
1) The slider 'rail' system is spot/heat welded to the phone body - pict 2291 - does leave alot of room for adjustment.
2) The mic is actually quite large - if the mic hole in the casing was larger I think the people-ask-me-to-speak-louder problem would be improved.
3) The clip that holds the phone in the open/closed position is rubbish - pict 2295 - I would say that if this clip was stiffer the slider mechanism would function much better.
sorry. point 1 should read...
1) The slider 'rail' system is spot/heat welded to the phone body - pict 2291 - does NOT leave alot of room for adjustment.
Hi, if it's not too much trouble, could you enlarge the part where the volume slider is? Mine don't seems to have any latch where the silver button can catch onto (i.e when i fixed back the casing, the button is very loose and unable to adjust the volume no matter how much i slide it up or down). TIA!
Hi - if you click on the thumbnail you get a slightly larger version, if you then click on this you get a new browser windows which gives you the full 4 Megapixel size of 2304 x 1704 pixels which gives alot of detail. These are all the ( in focus ) pictures that I have. The phone has now been put back together.
When I click on a thumbnail I get a medium-sized image, but clicking on that does nothing. Is there another way for us to get the fullsize images?
Thanks!
Replace the screen
Now the IIs is open, have you considered replacing the screen with an ordinary II? Do the connectors look the same?
Ive been reading, and can now observe for myself that the IIs screen is more 'yellow' than the II.
Thoughts?
sorry about the delay. Download the full size pics here
www.perfectmotion.co.uk/xda2s.zip
They're 4.5Mb !
No plans to swap the screen. Quite happy with mine.
Kudos for your bravery! Please post your solution to tightening the slider. You will undoubtedly ascend to PPC demi-god status if you find a way.Excellent work! Keep us updated please.
Cheers!
the pics in the zipped are corrupted..... its not even 4.5mb... something is wrong with the file pls upload the files again thank you so much... after looking at the bigger pics then i will be able to see if the LCD can be replace....
wertert,
Yes, zip file is only 1.5 KB... please repost.
When you took the device apart, did you notice where the WiFi antenna was and if it could possibly be relocated? A lot of people are complaining about the WiFi reception in the Blue Angel and, chances are, it's due to the antenna design/placement/location.
Thanks!
sorry about that.....I've tried uploading again but I seem to get a problem. Even uploading the raw jpg files is failing. I think my web site allocation is full up ! Does anyone have an FTP site I could put these picture on ?
pics
ps - I can also email them over. Can you get an address to me ?
sorry about the delay. Uploaded to another site. You should be able to get them from;
http://www.eyesociety.co.uk/xda2s/xda2s.zip
or
http://www.eyesociety.co.uk/xda2s
thanks for opening up the PDA2K for us...
1) So how did you finally fixed the loose keyboard????
2) Also, can it be that people that got their keyboard too loosed
used a PDA2K case such as the PEIL FRAMA one?
That case has a large and rather thick plastic that covers the
keyboad and goes between the keyboard and the body, it seems like it may case the keyboard to be loosed after sometime.
Thanks
Re: dismantled my XDA IIs
2) The mic is actually quite large - if the mic hole in the casing was larger I think the people-ask-me-to-speak-louder problem would be improved.
Did you make any modifications to the phone to improve the ability of the mic to pick up your voice?
Krusell case loosened keyb in 1.5 months
Yes sorci's right! The gap increased since I got my i-mate into such a case with a thick plastic cover over the keys. Everyday i notice it incresing. Loox like paranoia Well, what to do with the problem? Living in Russia I got no hopes for friendly product support. Have to solve it by means of a screwdriver and a hammer. Wish me luck, colleagues.
Krusell case loosened keyb in 1.5 months
Yes sorci's right! The gap increased since I got my i-mate into such a case with a thick plastic cover over the keys. Everyday i notice it incresing. Loox like paranoia Well, what to do with the problem? Living in Russia I got no hopes for friendly product support. Have to solve it by means of a screwdriver and a hammer. Wish me luck, colleagues.
My 2K internal pictures
I fixed my slider problem i have posted some pictures in 5 megapixel quality for clarity.unclip white plastic clips from bottom of slider plate and then Bend sides of slider plate out slightly,refit slider plate and plastic stop clips and you get smooth steady reistance all the way with no more gaps....ENJOY
Ok everybody, I have taken my PDA2K apart & fixed the wobbly screen problem, First things first:
1. get a sharp knife & carefully slide it under the VOID sticker moving upwards very slowly,& you should be able to remove the sticker in one peice,I have done 7 units ok so far.
2. remove three black screws from the battery compartment,& the silver countersunk screw from underneath the now removed VOID sticker,
Then the 2 countersunk screws from the top sides of the PDA2K,now the rear cover can be removed.
3.Three screws hold down the main PCB,looking from bottom of unit,one screw very top right corner of PCB.One screw Very top left corner of PCB.
& one screw half way down on right side near the ribbon cable for the key board.Then remove the yellow tape over the keyboard ribbon cable,Then lift the black clamp on the ribbon cable connector upwards,and put a round diameter screwdriver under the ribbon cable & pull outwards in a straight direction.
4. Extend the screen fully open & carfully lift the PCB up from the left side (OPPOSITE) the keyboard ribbon cable connector,& hold it slightly up as you carfully slide a blunt flat Knife under the 2 ribbon cables for the display.They will just pop off with minimal force.
5. Pull out the vibration motor & microphone from their casing slots (NOT PCB CONNECTORS) & place the main PCB in a safe place.
6. Looking at the back of the front section you should see 2 screws through slots in the back casing,& 2 at the top rear of the display.remove these & lift the display up from the bottom,carefully guiding the 2 display ribbon cables through the slot.
7. You will now be able to see the sliding plate edges & the two white peices of plastic at the bottom of the slider,These plastic peices need to come off in order to pull the slider plate up further and off the upper casing.what ever you do DO NOT lever the slider plate up with a screwdriver or the brittle moulded painted clamps will snap.if one does its not the end of the world,the slider plate side can be re-adjusted slighty to compensate.
8. With the slider plate in your hand you need to get a flat (NON SERATED) pair of pliers & carefully & very slightly move the edges of the slider plate outwards on each end so they are not going straight up.ie Looking at the plate from the bottom and flat in your hand the plate will look like a U shape,bend the ends out slightly away from each other so they sit against the slider clamps with more resistance,Be carefull not to over do it or you will end up with a very stiff display,
9. Assembly is a reversal of taking apart but be carefull to guide the display ribbons into the top hole of the slider plate,in its open position,
& make sure to tuck the vibrator motor wiring under the PCB before putting the rear casing on.Also hold the volume slider in the middle position as the rear casing is lowered into position.Remember DON'T FORCE ANYTHING or your beloved device will get damaged .
DONT forget to put the yellow tape on the keyboard ribbon cable & the VOID Sticker back on the silver screw & you will still have your warranty.
I have done this mod on a few units with success every time,& this should have been done in the factory,I find it a shame that comparing this unit to the XDA1 its not got the build quality that the XDA1 has and for £580 its a shame that the hardware is not up to the quality of the software features.
Saying that,I can now hold my PDA2K in my hands without its display moving sideways & it makes me feel im now holding a solid peice of kit worthy of £580.
PS I still have 2 brand new XDA1's for sale & one second hand one ive been using for the last year, 07958031182 Thanks & good luck........... :lol:
hi
any1 who has opened the pda2k .. is the camera soldered onto the mother board or is it only plugged in>???
thanks
Hi the camera is only plugged in,but you have to remove the wifi antenna to remove fom the motherboard.hope this helps.............
:? Boy do I feel dumb.
I've been using a 3-1 stylus (from Proporta) on my M2K and today the plastic "tip" got stuck in the unit's slot! Peering down the slot using a desk-lamp I can see the tip and it's off-centre to the actual axis of the hole. It looks like the hole for the stylus is NOT a tube - but is instead merely an opening into the unit. (thinking about it - I'd noticed that the stylus tip was "awkward" to fit into the slot a couple of times - obviously it had been getting caught in the body-work).
Stupidly I've further compounded my troubles by attempting to fineagle (technical term.. ) the tip out by using a biro refill - and the tip of the biro refill got stuck in the stylus tip!!! AAARGH! :shock:
Looks like I'll need to dismantle the entire bloody unit to get this thing out - so... how do I do it, what do I need, and where can I obtain the tools??
DOH!!!!
Damm, your having one of those day's
Just as a side note.
Don’t buy or use 3 in 1 stylus, they will break the clamp in the device holding the stylus in place so the stylus gets so loose that it will slide out and in without any resistance
Check your warranty before taking your unit apart!
You'll need a T6x60 and maybe a T7x60 drive. Then search for a thread on this forum that will guide you through the dismantling process.
good luck!
nomadman said:
Check your warranty before taking your unit apart!
You'll need a T6x60 and maybe a T7x60 drive. Then search for a thread on this forum that will guide you through the dismantling process.
good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
somehow I doubt Orange will be terribly impressed with what's hapened!!!
Anyone know how much it would cost to have the unit dismantled by a repair workshop (and thus maintain the warranty)? And is there such a place in central London?
Why not try the finest tad (more technical phraseology) of super glue on the end of your 3 in 1, push in hole, wait 1 minute and pull out. It might just work and surely would have done without that biro bit. Got to be worth a try - but be frugal with the glue !
By the way, I've used a 3 in 1 form Proporta for 3 months now and the old stylus fits and is retained just the same as its always has done (just tried it).
Stylus.
Hmmm I dont remember where i bought mine, but this is the second time i need to get the 9090 to service.
There is no resistense at all, it just slide in and out by it self
They are going right to the trashbin now.
Do you have a link to where you got yours??
Bottom stylus is the original.
Much more soft in the area where the clamp goes in
Mine came from here;
http://www.proporta.com/F02/PPF02P05.php?t_id=933&t_mode=des
But having looked at your photograph, and had a good look at my stylii, the 'shoulder' is different on my original stylus and that from Proporta - just as your picky shows. Still haven't had a problem though - YET.
Don't like it that you have to take of the tip to use the pen as reset tool
The ones i got are working very good, but I just cant use them any more since they destroy the clamp.
Here's one more pic.
I don't. I just use the tip of the stylus for re-set.
If you pull out the stylus and look into the hole in the BA, does it look like white plastic clamps in your BA.
I can se 2 white plastic clamps in mine.
Yes - just the same !
Since we both have plastic clamps, my stylus clamp shoulders must be the reason for the defect in the BA.
Well then I can only say to anybody reading this thread, don't buy 3 in 1 stylus that look like the ones in the pictures :!: :!:
TIP: Use a software to reset the PPC. I use CLaunch on normal reset. During lockups, I have to use the stylus. But that's only 1out of 10 resets.
http://home.pacific.net.sg/~welic/claunch.html
nomadman - sir, sorry this is out of the topic.... i just noticed your ROM version... where did you get the ROM update for our XDA IIs?
Thanks!
YAY! Fixed it last night.
1 T6 driver and 1 small flat bladed screwdriver were all the tools necessary.
Just removed the 2 silver screws, and 3 of the black ones (the "Void" sticker was untouched) and the rear cover was loose enough to allow the very flat blade of the screwdriver in just far enough to dislodge the "item" and it just dropped out.
reassembly was easy and the only shock I got was when I turned the unit back on the emergency battery was nearly dead!! I'd only had the main battery off the unit for 5 minutes!!!! Not terribly impressed by that I have to say.
I am having probems with my touchscreen and want to pull the case off it so that I can check connections.
The service manual states that after having undone the screws along the bottom edge of the screen that you should use a screwdriver to push into the hole in the bottom left hand edge of the screen case to release the catch to separate the two halves, but pushing the screwdriver in there doesn't seem to release anything.
Has anyone here managed to dismantle the screen and have any tips on how to do it?
:lol: youv'e probaly sorted by now
anyhow ur need to obtain a plastic ended screwdriver (unless you fancy damaging case) insert at join wilst using a fine screwdriver, gently push in hole lever outwards while prising and i'tl 'pop' out do same at other end and use plastic srewdriver to pop open along join all around until it pops of.
had to change screen on mine took about 25mins total, advise u use anti static wrist band (lot of sensitive stuff near screen).
Where did you get your screen from? and how much?
:lol: i brought unit off ebay (internally damaged) for the screen (lucky). theres a taiwanese company, selling them, but not seen on ebay for a while, if you look through archives theres also a usa company, but only repair.
Hi,
Just had an MDA Pro screen replaced by these chaps in Wimbledon:
http://www.xdarepairs.co.uk
Cost quoted was about £110 +VAT + Postage fitted, or £90 +VAT for the part on its own. All in, the screen, including fitting, was not much more than the screen on its own from ebay.
Posted to them on Tuesday at 16:45 and received back on Thursday at 08:45. Working beautifully again.
May be worth a try.
I had this problem where the vibration unit only works after shaking it like a crazy person which seems to be quite common in the A3, A5, A7 series.
So I ordered a vibration unit (3€) and a replacement adhesive sticker for the back cover (2,50€) and pushed my luck.
I used this video as a guide on how to disassemble and followed most steps.
Here's where I strayed from it:
-I used a crystallization hand warmer to apply heat. This way the temperature is controlled not to rise above 58°C, which should not harm the hardware.
-I wedged it open with a box cutter, then used the plastic blister packaging of an SD Card. It is both sturdy and thin.
- the Vibration unit was destroyed during removal
Lessons learned:
-If you are about to do a report/tutorial on disassembling your phone, make sure your camera THAT IS NOT YOUR PHONE is currently in your possession.
-Buy that vibration unit for 3 bucks before you start this, even if you are positive yours works but is just dislodged. The best case is you have a spare, but removing the original in working condition is not a given, and you don't want to be stuck with an open phone and no vibration unit.
-The A3 2016 and A3 2017 vibration units look pretty much the same on ebay, but aren't. Double check before you buy. I accidentally bought the 2016 version which works in the A320, but is smaller and packs considerably less, you know, vibration.
-Do not skip that step where they tell you to remove the SD/SIM tray. It locks the mainboard in place.
-The person at Samsung that came up with these contact springs for the vibration unit should be fired. With a cannon, into the sun.
-packing in an additional layer of two sided tape beneath the vibration unit doesn't quite work. Well, the vibration unit worked, but the antenna didn't ("No Service"). (The antenna consists of those plastic parts you remove before taking about the mainboard.) If you have to apply pressure to the antenna to close the phone, you have a risk of cracking your mainboard (mine shows a slight crack, but it is still intact). If I'd do it again maybe I'd try Teflon Tape for plumbing beneath the contact plates for that tiny bit of extra pressure.
-to keep your phone waterproof, you need new stickers. Make sure both the vibration unit AND the GSM antenna work before you apply them, while we're at it it's best to test all functions before resealing (Cameras, Speakers, WiFi, NFC, Phonecalls)
-Start the phone Twice if it won't boot. Don't panic, that's normal (at least with lineage 15.1 it is).