PDA2K screen slider Modification - Upgrading, Modifying and Unlocking

Ok everybody, I have taken my PDA2K apart & fixed the wobbly screen problem, First things first:
1. get a sharp knife & carefully slide it under the VOID sticker moving upwards very slowly,& you should be able to remove the sticker in one peice,I have done 7 units ok so far.
2. remove three black screws from the battery compartment,& the silver countersunk screw from underneath the now removed VOID sticker,
Then the 2 countersunk screws from the top sides of the PDA2K,now the rear cover can be removed.
3.Three screws hold down the main PCB,looking from bottom of unit,one screw very top right corner of PCB.One screw Very top left corner of PCB.
& one screw half way down on right side near the ribbon cable for the key board.Then remove the yellow tape over the keyboard ribbon cable,Then lift the black clamp on the ribbon cable connector upwards,and put a round diameter screwdriver under the ribbon cable & pull outwards in a straight direction.
4. Extend the screen fully open & carfully lift the PCB up from the left side (OPPOSITE) the keyboard ribbon cable connector,& hold it slightly up as you carfully slide a blunt flat Knife under the 2 ribbon cables for the display.They will just pop off with minimal force.
5. Pull out the vibration motor & microphone from their casing slots (NOT PCB CONNECTORS) & place the main PCB in a safe place.
6. Looking at the back of the front section you should see 2 screws through slots in the back casing,& 2 at the top rear of the display.remove these & lift the display up from the bottom,carefully guiding the 2 display ribbon cables through the slot.
7. You will now be able to see the sliding plate edges & the two white peices of plastic at the bottom of the slider,These plastic peices need to come off in order to pull the slider plate up further and off the upper casing.what ever you do DO NOT lever the slider plate up with a screwdriver or the brittle moulded painted clamps will snap.if one does its not the end of the world,the slider plate side can be re-adjusted slighty to compensate.
8. With the slider plate in your hand you need to get a flat (NON SERATED) pair of pliers & carefully & very slightly move the edges of the slider plate outwards on each end so they are not going straight up.ie Looking at the plate from the bottom and flat in your hand the plate will look like a U shape,bend the ends out slightly away from each other so they sit against the slider clamps with more resistance,Be carefull not to over do it or you will end up with a very stiff display,
9. Assembly is a reversal of taking apart but be carefull to guide the display ribbons into the top hole of the slider plate,in its open position,
& make sure to tuck the vibrator motor wiring under the PCB before putting the rear casing on.Also hold the volume slider in the middle position as the rear casing is lowered into position.Remember DON'T FORCE ANYTHING or your beloved device will get damaged .
DONT forget to put the yellow tape on the keyboard ribbon cable & the VOID Sticker back on the silver screw & you will still have your warranty.
I have done this mod on a few units with success every time,& this should have been done in the factory,I find it a shame that comparing this unit to the XDA1 its not got the build quality that the XDA1 has and for £580 its a shame that the hardware is not up to the quality of the software features.
Saying that,I can now hold my PDA2K in my hands without its display moving sideways & it makes me feel im now holding a solid peice of kit worthy of £580.
PS I still have 2 brand new XDA1's for sale & one second hand one ive been using for the last year, 07958031182 Thanks & good luck........... :lol:

hi
any1 who has opened the pda2k .. is the camera soldered onto the mother board or is it only plugged in>???
thanks

Hi the camera is only plugged in,but you have to remove the wifi antenna to remove fom the motherboard.hope this helps.............

Related

M2000 Dismantling/Housing Replacement

I dropped my SPV M2000 a few weeks ago and it has sustained a few battle scars.
I bought a dummy model on eBay which is identical to the original and am planning to use it to give my phone a new housing. Problem is I have got half way through but am a bit nervous about the keyboard/screen as these have ribbon type connectors that need to be disconnected from the main board and then reconnected.
Has anybody attempted this? I've managed to replace the back part of the case successfully as it doesn't involve interferring with any connectors...
its pretty straight forward.
when you get the back cover off (six screws, 3 short and 3 long - two on the outside top and 4 under the battery) you'll see the rest button and the vibrate motor, just gently lever them out of theire respective recesses and leave them attaced to the system board.
Then with the phone held right way up, back facing you you'll see a ribbon cable just above where the vibrator motor was. Its taped down with yellow tape.
Gently peel the tape off (keep it safe to put back later)
then the black part of the connector that the ribbon slides into lifts up be very gentle and it will pop up. Once you've popped it up, the cable will come out easily.
Once you have that cable out, slide the keyboard down without turning the phone over, then put the phone on its side and separate the system board from the keyboard/screen by a couple of inches look at the back (as you see it it actually the front of course) of the sys board, you'll see two more ribbon cables that plug on to the sys board. Gently lift the edge of each connector and they'll pop off the board easliy.
take the sys board right out of the screen/keyboard, then undo the 4 remaining torx screws (you haveto have the keyboard fully extended to see the bottom screws) and the screen/keyboard can then be gently parted from the front screen surround.
assembly is the reverse of removal. The key is to extend the keyboard when you reassemble/reinstall the system board initially.
hope that helps!
cheers
-Griz
Griz,
Thanks - I will give it a try
Cian
Please include pictures maybe you can give a tutorial.
I've followed this and changed the screen surround on my M2000 without any problems.
The only thing not mentioned in the instructions is that there are 3 small screws that secure the system board to the housing that have to be removed before the system board can be separated away.
I bought a "dummy" M2000 from eBay and most of the casing from one of these can be swapped over. The only thing that can't is the centre section that contains the keyboard as the keyboard is embedded in this and can't be removed (the keyboard on the dummy ones isn't a working one).

[Q] Blown Ear Piece Speaker

Not sure how i pulled it off, but my ear-piece speaker (the one used for calls) is blown. My warranty is expired so I am thinking of attempting to replace it. I searched around the forums and didn't find much on the issue except for replacing the external speaker. I did a little searching on google and found this . My question is: has anyone else tried to replace it? Is it very hard?
It is very simple! Pull the back off the phone, then pull the battery. Pull the 4 screws on the corners, lift a corner of the red back and release the black tabs as you apply pressure then the red back will pop off.
Then pull the yellow stickers off the connectors and release them by lifting the black tabs and pull the wires out. Pull the two silver screws on the top and bottom and then lift the motherboard out and the speaker will be right there on top. Pry it out with a little screwdriver and replace. It really is very simple.
There are plenty of videos on the internet. Just google it.

[Q] HTC oneX screen replacement

replacing broken screen, same instructions and video found all over internet, good to point of releasing 2 connections for motherboard, the one that goes to screen at bottom pops right out in video, mine appears to be taped in rather than alligator or pop clip as stated in video, need advise, do I remove tape
The flex that comes from the bottom of the phone is connected to the underside of the motherboard with a zif (zero insertion force) connector. These are usually taped over because there is a possibility of them popping up and losing the connection. If you remove the tape you will see the latch type connector. Just lift the latch and the flex can be removed from the connector. When re-assembling, make sure to replace the tape after you have connected the flex.
Here is a good video that shows how to do it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIeO0DueMcg&feature=youtu.be
Have fun and be gentle.

replacing screen from zenfone 2 551

Hi all,
i'm very disappointed because i'm just breaking my screen when my zenfone fall of 60cm.
LCD is ok but screen is dead
On ebay i know you can find only the screen with kit, and LCD + screen
Does any one have advice for replacing the screen or screen + lcd? (video or pictures).
Asus France ask me 180€ to change that
thank for your help...
pulesky said:
Hi all,
i'm very disappointed because i'm just breaking my screen when my zenfone fall of 60cm.
LCD is ok but screen is dead
On ebay i know you can find only the screen with kit, and LCD + screen
Does any one have advice for replacing the screen or screen + lcd? (video or pictures).
Asus France ask me 180€ to change that
thank for your help...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems pretty easy, please check these videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMIivqu6XJY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4HZt3Aadsc
I ordered a screen replacement on AliExpress. I've only cracked the glass on my phone, but I don't think it's possible to replace the glass on its own. (Unless you have the hands of a neurosurgeon and special equipment.)
Tried changing screen today, but it requires a complete disassemble of the unit. I managed to remove the back and disconnect the components, however I wasn't able to remove the battery since it seems to be glued (?) in place on one side. I even tried using quite a bit of force, but eventually I chickened out since the battery started bending. I have no idea how they do it so easily in the video. If anyone here has managed this disassemble I'd be very interested in getting some details.
dodongobongo said:
I ordered a screen replacement on AliExpress. I've only cracked the glass on my phone, but I don't think it's possible to replace the glass on its own. (Unless you have the hands of a neurosurgeon and special equipment.)
Tried changing screen today, but it requires a complete disassemble of the unit. I managed to remove the back and disconnect the components, however I wasn't able to remove the battery since it seems to be glued (?) in place on one side. I even tried using quite a bit of force, but eventually I chickened out since the battery started bending. I have no idea how they do it so easily in the video. If anyone here has managed this disassemble I'd be very interested in getting some details.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try using a hair dryer on the battery for a minute, but keep moving the hair dryer up and down, to spread the heat all over, this should make the glue soft enough to make it easier to peel the battery off.
Finally managed to replace the screen. This one was really difficult to repair compared to the previous phones I've worked on, but maybe in part because there are no complete instructions out there yet. Lots of glue and tape holding it all together.
The battery isn't really glued, but rather held down by some sticky plastic. (Kinda like chewing gum.) I don't think heating will help here. I used a long, flat plastic object to reach underneath and loosen it from the battery.
I forgot to take pictures, but here are the steps I took. You can find some photos for the first half of the procedure.
Remove 14 screws from the back cover
Carefully remove back plastic cover (double sided tape on center)
Unplug the three connectors going to the top PCB/SoC (these are screen, SIM/SD and battery)
Remove speaker (black piece at the bottom, nothing is holding it in place)
Remove bottom PCB: flip up the little black switch to loosen the connector cable next to the battery, then unplug the wire going to the top PCB, then you can remove it. Vibrator piece doesn't need to be unplugged.
Battery can now be removed, but is as mentioned fastened very well. Try to pull it up on the left side to reach under it.
Unplug digitizer connector on the left side of the top PCB. Just peel off the yellow take and pull it out.
Peel loose the part of the metallic shielding that fastened the top PCB to the surface under where the battery was.
Top PCB can now be removed, start from right side.
Peel off the little "sticker" the digitizer connector goes to. This is probably part of what you're replacing, so it doesn't matter if you destroy it in the process. Otherwise try heating it.
Screen can finally be removed. It's removed from the front of the phone, same as for Zenfone 5. Start at the bottom. It's fastened with glue along all sides. If you're hoping not to ruin the LCD while removing the screen you will probably need a heat gun and extreme patience.
dodongobongo said:
Finally managed to replace the screen. This one was really difficult to repair compared to the previous phones I've worked on, but maybe in part because there are no complete instructions out there yet. Lots of glue and tape holding it all together.
The battery isn't really glued, but rather held down by some sticky plastic. (Kinda like chewing gum.) I don't think heating will help here. I used a long, flat plastic object to reach underneath and loosen it from the battery.
I forgot to take pictures, but here are the steps I took. You can find some photos for the first half of the procedure.
Remove 14 screws from the back cover
Carefully remove back plastic cover (double sided tape on center)
Unplug the three connectors going to the top PCB/SoC (these are screen, SIM/SD and battery)
Remove speaker (black piece at the bottom, nothing is holding it in place)
Remove bottom PCB: flip up the little black switch to loosen the connector cable next to the battery, then unplug the wire going to the top PCB, then you can remove it. Vibrator piece doesn't need to be unplugged.
Battery can now be removed, but is as mentioned fastened very well. Try to pull it up on the left side to reach under it.
Unplug digitizer connector on the left side of the top PCB. Just peel off the yellow take and pull it out.
Peel loose the part of the metallic shielding that fastened the top PCB to the surface under where the battery was.
Top PCB can now be removed, start from right side.
Peel off the little "sticker" the digitizer connector goes to. This is probably part of what you're replacing, so it doesn't matter if you destroy it in the process. Otherwise try heating it.
Screen can finally be removed. It's removed from the front of the phone, same as for Zenfone 5. Start at the bottom. It's fastened with glue along all sides. If you're hoping not to ruin the LCD while removing the screen you will probably need a heat gun and extreme patience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just cracked my phone. :crying:Thanks for the instructions. Before I decide to do this, are any of the adhesives necessary to put the phone back together?
Yes, order some double-tape for cellphones.
Glad I'm not the only one that succeded althought I scrapped the battery in my case .
I followed mostly the same steps but for anyone that want some pictures, I posted them in another thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/zenfone2/help/q-lcd-replacement-procedure-t3135165
Can asus ze550ml screen will fit to ze550kl model
@Ptselv: probably best to start a new thread rather than hijack one that is several months old.
And to answer your question: No, a ZE550ML screen will not fit a ZE550KL phone. My suggestion: search AliExpress.com for "ze551kl digitizer" and you'll be likely to find what you need.

Tablet Took a Swim - Volume Rocker Stuck

Good morning;
So, my Nexus 7 took a swim. Fortunately it was a quick one and I was able to recover it quickly and it found it's way into a nice dry rice bath following.
There it sat for a few days until it was nice and dry. Power it on and blammo -- tries to boot into recovery or safe mode.
Fast forward to my best understand of what is happening -- it thinks the volume rocker is being pressed 100% of the time.
So, anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on what I may be able to do? I guess I'll have to buy some sort of replacement part -- but presumably it's not a modular component I can simply replace.
Think I can just 'remove' the volume control entirely?
StabbingHobo said:
Good morning;
So, my Nexus 7 took a swim. Fortunately it was a quick one and I was able to recover it quickly and it found it's way into a nice dry rice bath following.
There it sat for a few days until it was nice and dry. Power it on and blammo -- tries to boot into recovery or safe mode.
Fast forward to my best understand of what is happening -- it thinks the volume rocker is being pressed 100% of the time.
So, anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on what I may be able to do? I guess I'll have to buy some sort of replacement part -- but presumably it's not a modular component I can simply replace.
Think I can just 'remove' the volume control entirely?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just to be clear we're not talking about the plastic buttons protruding on the side of the tablet. Inside, barring some short on the circuit itself or fried components(this you can do by inspecting points of contact on the ribbon, the inside of the connector and the soldering traces at its end), the amber ribbon consisting of power, volume and microphone can be removed from the bezel by very slowly scraping the double-sided white tape underneath it from one end to the other (if you use a thin blade, make sure you insert it between the tape and the bezel and not between the tape and the ribbon itself).
Once out, you will notice that contact is made when the thin round metal plates are pressed together. There are 2 layers. If you again carefully peel off the upper layer (transparent mylar or film), you can see if anything is stuck in between (water or vapor), or that one plate is depressed permanently that it would make contact all the time.
The rest is just a matter of pushing it back to the normal position and realign both layers. Usually, there would be enough adhesive left for them to stick together without your having to add more.
graphdarnell said:
Just to be clear we're not talking about the plastic buttons protruding on the side of the tablet. Inside, barring some short on the circuit itself or fried components(this you can do by inspecting points of contact on the ribbon, the inside of the connector and the soldering traces at its end), the amber ribbon consisting of power, volume and microphone can be removed from the bezel by very slowly scraping the double-sided white tape underneath it from one end to the other (if you use a thin blade, make sure you insert it between the tape and the bezel and not between the tape and the ribbon itself).
Once out, you will notice that contact is made when the thin round metal plates are pressed together. There are 2 layers. If you again carefully peel off the upper layer (transparent mylar or film), you can see if anything is stuck in between (water or vapor), or that one plate is depressed permanently that it would make contact all the time.
The rest is just a matter of pushing it back to the normal position and realign both layers. Usually, there would be enough adhesive left for them to stick together without your having to add more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the reply.
Yes, the rocker buttons do continue to rock like a charm. I'll have to crack it open and have a look. Thank you for your advice.

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