Develop Bugs

Replacing the digitizer on the TP2

Hi,
Just purchased a TP2 with a cracked digitizer. I also have the replacement. I've done a bit of research, and it looks like a ton of steps. I'm pretty confident I can do it, so all I'm really looking for is some tips. Any surprises I might see that may not have been covered in this guide? This is what I have so far:
http://translate.google.co.uk/trans...ka/htc_touch_pro2/&sl=ru&tl=en&hl=en&ie=UTF-8

how did you conclude that your digitizer is cracked?

The LCD is fine. It's the top layer of plastic that is cracked. I haven't received the phone yet, but I inspected it, and that's what I concluded. The person who sold it to me is including a replacement part, but I know I'm looking at a lengthy process to dismantle the device.

Do you have to take apart the entire phone just to change the digitizer? I thought you could just hook something underneath the corner and pry it out.
It seems like such a drag if you have to take the whole phone apart to change an exterior item.

Man you're in for a world of hurt and frustration... Easier to just purchase and replace the LCD and digitizer together...
But hey, good luck.....

have you managed to replace the digitizer only? if its such a mission why are so many people selling them on ebay? a scam maby lol?

i too am interested in your results, just now bought a cracked LCD htc touch pro 2 for $100, touching the screen works, except that the phone is stuck in head-set mode and can't seem to get out of it. also, i want to replace the lcd and use the phone myself. can you pls post your success/educational steps which you followed. also, where did you buy the replacement LCD? how much ? pls help.

ultramag69 said:
Man you're in for a world of hurt and frustration... Easier to just purchase and replace the LCD and digitizer together...
But hey, good luck.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Totally agree here. From what I have read you dont want to mess around with trying to pry the current digitizer off and then reapply a new one on. It's a HUGE pain in the ass. Just purchase a replacement LCD screen/digitizer combo and i's apparently super easy to swap out.

I've taken apart tons of phones, I'm currently waiting on a digitizer to replace for my TP2. If you search this forum you will find instructions how to do it.
While waiting I've been reviewing the instructions.
As always the hardest part is putting it back together.
The only thing I can recommend to you is to don't worry about replacing it. Take pictures with a digital camera as you go so you can know how to put it back together.
Hopefully I will get mine by this weekend. It is for a T-Mobile TP2 and the only shop to have one available was in Hong Kong.
Good luck.

Redman0570 said:
I've taken apart tons of phones, I'm currently waiting on a digitizer to replace for my TP2. If you search this forum you will find instructions how to do it.
While waiting I've been reviewing the instructions.
As always the hardest part is putting it back together.
The only thing I can recommend to you is to don't worry about replacing it. Take pictures with a digital camera as you go so you can know how to put it back together.
Hopefully I will get mine by this weekend. It is for a T-Mobile TP2 and the only shop to have one available was in Hong Kong.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, can u post how you go with this e.g. is it easy enough to seperate the lcd and touchscreen. Maby a few pics as well if you can.
Cheers

It can be done but it requires ALOT of patience. Take it slowly and try not to leaver against the LCD in anyway. If you do break the screen when replacing it a replacement isn't expensive.

I replaced the digitizer twice. Taking the phone apart and assembling it back is difficult only when you do it for the first time. Once you know what's going on it just takes some time and precision. The REALLY tough part when replacing JUST the digitizer is putting the lcd and digitizer together without any dust or fingerprints in between. I ended up with dusting and vacuuming the room, putting some super-clean brand new plastic bags around the workplace and putting the cold shower on. Then using super-clean glass polishing microfibre cloth and anti-static glass cleaning liquid under really good lamp I managed to get both parts 100% clean and put them back together. Don't forget latex gloves (the ones that leave no marks) - fingerprints are hundred times worse than dust to get rid of. I have no idea how long did it really take but when I finished my back hurt like hell and water was dripping from the ceiling
Separating lcd and digitizer is not too hard. It was easiest when it was still attached to the bezel. I just pried it out applying easy, firm pressure and taking my time. Try not to damage the sticky layer on the edges or get it excessively dirty - it'll make your life easier later.
I hope it goes easier for you. Gud luck!
EDIT: Make sure that lcd is positioned 100% correctly (there is 1 or 2mm space to move it around). It is a very unpleasant surprise to put the phone back together just to find out that some top or bottom pixel lines are permanently invisible (The Voice of True Experience speaks here:/). And generally - keep the place around you tidy - maybe some containers for screws, parts, tools and that sort of stuff. I am not naturally anal enough to start from this point but found out in the process that this sort of job gets extremely frustrating and exhausting when you get confused, start losing parts etc.

It is major hurt! The TP2 is really not user serviceable! Anyway after reading all instructions I still screwed it up. I should have sent it in to HTC. I would not recommend changing the digitizer on your own.
Everything went well until it came to removing the LCD & replacing the digitizer. I cut the speaker cable, and the LCD just came apart. Luckily I have another LCD, looking for a speaker cable now.

has anyone found any places that sell the lcd and digitizer together for the T-Mobile TP2?

Thanks to these instructions I was able to replace the broken digitizer (glass) on my TP2. Unfortunately the Russian instructions stop short of replacing the glass.
Tools required: T5 torx mini screwdriver, letter opener, mini philips, a mini straight screwdriver and I found a very mini (1mm ) straight screwdriver handy for getthing the keyboard and screen back loose. The letter openner and two straight screwdrivers are only for prying
Here is what I did from the last spot on the Russian instructions: (yes you have to do every step)
Note: Be very careful removing the ribbon taped to the back of the LCD. You have to pry the speaker out ot the case up at the top; don't attempt to remove it by pulling on the ribbon. Once the speaker is loose (it's attached to the riboon, you are ok to remove it.
1. Take a small straight screwdriver and pry all around the LCD (metal back with handwriting on it in the last photo.) There are plastic tabs all around it centering it. You can pry gently against them. The LCD is only adhered with a small gasket around the edge of the glass. It is not glued to the screen as was posted by someone else. It comes out fairly easily.
2. Remove the black tape holding down the ribbon connected to the digitizer. I wasn't able to save the tape but not a big deal. Below the tape is one of three screws holding the buttons on. Remove those three screws.
3. Now you should be able to remove the digitizer. Go slow starting at the bottom. It is glued all around at heavily glued at the top. I had the pry the top away with small flat screwdriver and a letter opener. Go slowly and eventually it will release. At the top of the glass is the speaker for your ear. It will likely come off with the glass. Remove it and return it to the now empty case centering it in top.
4. Using gloves to prevent prints remove the protective film form your new digitizer. There is a lot of static generated when you do this so keep it away from everything for a minute while it neutralizes. Then place the digitizer in from the top, feed the ribbon through the slot and press the plastic all the way around.
5. Replace the buttons and the screws that retain them.
6. Replace the LCD; you can't screw it up the plastic tabs center the LCD. Just make sure the ribbon is at the bottom.
7. Reverse the instructions in the Russian link at the beginning of the post.
All told it took one hour the first time. I got it all together and then screen didn't light it. I had trouble reconnecting the screen ribbon during assembly so I figured the problem was there. I took the phone apart (to the end of the Russian instructions) and reinserted the screen ribbon into the connecter and then reassembled the phone. It took 10 min to disassemble and reassemble the phone the second time although I didn't have to take apart the screen.
So that's it. It cost me $22.00 for a new digitizer and $10.00 shipping, which is a lot better than a new phone if you don't have insurance and the phone looks like new. If you look very hard you can make out one tiny speck of dust under the glass but it's barely visible; much better than looking at the large V shaped crack I had before.

Hello!
I ordered (and received) a screen AND a digitizer. But there's a thin scotch tape that make the screen+digitizer (in one piece) get stick to the phone. OK, I teared it off.
But, how can I replace this scotch tape??? Much less of 1 mm thick, it seems to be made of foam...
Anyone can help me???????????
Please....

Coucou !
Is there anybody out there?
(Pink Floyd, The Wall, 1979 )

I was sent a Digitizer from Ebay (without LCD). Just for everyone elses benefit, there is no way you can remove the digitizer from the LCD Screen. It's glued down. Maybe it wasn't the case with the older ones, but mine can not be separated, no way!
Taking the phone apart is not too hard, the video instructions are pretty good, but seriously, forget trying to replace the digitizer only.
Here is the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrTRPTmoxpw&feature=player_embedded
Cheers, Mal.

If it has the same construction as the HD2, you can put the LCD + digitizer in the oven for 5 minutes at 50 degrees celcius. This was shown in instructions by HTC. Then you can seperate them.

Maybe, but my LCD was glued across the whole screen not just the edges. I'd suggest only buying the Digitizer/LCD combo if you want to do this yourself. If you buy both (as a single piece) the job would be pretty easy.

SM-P600 series LCD+Digitizer replacement

SM-P600 series cracked screen repair.
I have a badly cracked screen on my SM-P600 and have ordered the complete LCD + digitizer to do the repair - having watched how difficult is was to clean a phone with LCD glued to the screen - and it also seems that there is nobody willing to take on the job in the UK.
The screen and all the internals extract from the front screen side of the unit leaving a "carapace" behind.
Bought LCD here -> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-Screen...item3ce14e2f51
Tools used :- Old credit cards cut to suit (tools had not arrived) and watchmakers cross point screwdriver. Hair-dryer. Stanley knife (Utility knife)
I decided not to video my repair as it would have taken days - being in my 70s and not too clever with the eyes, meaning I have to keep changing spectacles for everything and I have a dreadful habit of removing an item or using a tool, putting it down and spending the next few minutes looking for it - you've guessed it - changing specs!
There is a perfectly good strip down on Utube here :-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zOzrRu8PB2Y many thanks to Gorepair.de for the video - and that's the easy part.
After removing all the gubbins you are left with the LCD + digitizer attached to a grey frame by means of thin double sided sticky tape. I heated the peripheral of the screen with the wife's hair dryer and very carefully removed the cracked screen. By doing this I was able to re-use the tape on the new screen after carefully examining it for any glass splinters etc.. I also placed greenhouse tape - thicker & wider than Sellotape - over the screen before dismantling so that I was not showered with glass splinters. Another tip is a piece of sellotape over the power & volume buttons to keep them in place - they may be held in by other means but it's belt & braces, no harm there.
Before replacing the screen in the frame remember to replace the HOME button as I found out the tape is indeed very sticky and it was a bugger separating screen from frame to insert the button which I had, of course, forgotten to put back in! Should have Sellotaped it in new screen immediately on removal from the damaged one! There is also a short golden coloured multi tape that needs to be fed though the frame.
Now it is just a matter of reversing the strip down procedure and Fred is your Aunt Fanny's best friend!
The unit did work afterward despite my repair. It took me about three & an half hours including changing specs and lookin for misplaced items, so I'm sure less than two hours for a good sighted person that is "compus mentis" :¬)
It is not as daunting as it may first seem!

How-to Guide: Zenfone 2 Screen Replacement

EDIT- there are two different types of tape that holds the battery in. There is no obvious way to tell which type your phone has (to my knowledge). One has foam double sided tape, the other is some kind of thin & very strong adhesive tape. If your phone is the latter, you'll need to be VERY careful when trying to take it out.
I would suggest applying a lot of heat to the front of the phone screen - this should transfer to the tape behind the screen, and make it much easier to remove. If you damage your battery it'll cost approximately $45 USD + shipping to replace it. I haven't tried this method yet, but that is the only way I can see.
Ok, here is my guide / how-to for replacing the display assembly on the Asus Zenfone 2 ZE551ML.
Let me know if you have any questions. I would say it was fairly straight forward - I have not done this before on any phone, and mine works well.
I've posted the full guide with pictures on Imgur here: http://imgur.com/a/KXTFV
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Compatible Replacement Part
The original screen has the following code stamped on the back of the display: "TL055VDXP34-00".
The first replacement display assembly (did not work) had the following code: "TLD55VVXP31-00".
The second replacement assembly (did work) had the following code: "TL055VDXP34-00".
On that basis, I would suggest that the first unit I received was an earlier model, and was the incorrect part. I assume that the replacement display assembly must be model TL055VDXP34-00.
Step 1
Remove back cover
Step 2
Remove screws in plastic panel
NOTE: Remember to remove the one next to the camera (this might be covered by a small sticker).
This cover should remove quite easily - if you can't lift it, count those screws! There should be 14. Again - check that one by the camera that is somewhat hidden.
NOTE These screws are actually the only screws which hold the phone together. Once these are out and the cover is up, the speaker unit will fall away from the phone.
Step 3
To remove the plastic panel pry it up at one end, and use a sharp blade to separate the double sided tape between the battery and the plastic panel.
NOTE: I removed the double sided tape completely when I put it back together. It doesn't seem to really be necessary.
Step 4
Remove the antenna cable, vibrate motor, and four other connections.
The three above the battery pop up away from the phone.
Step 5
To disconnect the flat cable at the bottom of the battery you need to first remove the yellow plastic sticker covering it. Next lift the white tab to release the cable, then gently pull the cable out towards the base of the phone.
Step 6
To remove the battery, gently pull up away from the phone. Once you have located the double sided tape holding it to the phone, you should use the sharp blade to separate it from the housing.
NOTE: Be gentle with the small metal tabs on the edge of the battery; these are quite flimsy and will bend if used to force the battery. I removed the double sided tape completely here too, and did not replace it.
Step 7
Once the battery is out you need to lift the copper sheet from the body of the phone, which is held in place with some mild adhesive. Use tweezers and lift from one corner gently, working your way slowly across the square piece.
Step 8
Lift the yellow plastic sticker, then disconnect the screen plug shown in the picture.
NOTE This is a connection for the display, and actually goes under the main unit in a right angle, then up and out a small slit at the top of the phone (shown in picture for step 16). This cable is part of the display assembly, and is being replaced entirely. If it is easier, you could actually cut this cable completely.
Step 9
There are four plastic retainers which fix the remaining unit to the body of the phone. Use a small amount of force on one side to pop this section out. Once this is freed, it should be simple to remove it completely.
Step 10
Once the internal pieces of the phone are removed, you'll need to detach the display cable (from step 8) from the body. This is held in place with some adhesive, and shouldn't be too hard to pry up.
NOTE: Your new display assembly will have some adhesive on the replacement cable - should be self explanatory when fixing this back on.
Step 11
To remove the display itself you'll need to apply heat. I had a heat gun - this makes it a lot easier ($20-$30 on eBay) but you could use a hair drier if you don't have a heat gun. For the sake of comparison - the heat gun took around 30 seconds to heat the display completely, which would take 3-5 minutes with a hair drier.
Once the adhesive behind the screen has been heated up, work your way around the edges of the screen with a sharp razor blade. The display will begin to separate from the housing.
Once mostly free, carefully lift the display cable through the hole in the top of the phone body. Again; you're replacing this cable completely, so don't worry too much about it.
Step 12
You will need to separate the speaker grill from the original display, clean the adhesive off, and attach it for the new screen. I found it easier to attach the grill to the actual phone body (rather than the display assembly).
Step 13
Because of the condition of the adhesive for the screen assembly, I decided to replace the adhesive completely. You could skip this step, but I figured it was worth cleaning it up.
To remove the existing adhesive I just used the sharp razor blade and worked my way around peeling it all off.
NOTE: This would be a good opportunity to 'test fit' the new screen (without adhesive) so you can see where the cables need to go. There is one which goes up behind the screen and through the middle of the phone, and another which goes through the top hole. The top one is a strange shape, and needs to go through sideways first.
Step 14
I used the 3M double sided adhesive tape to go around the edge of the new screen assembly.
NOTE: The replacement adhesive I used was 3M double sided adhesive tape (2mm) - the tape was around $10 from a mobile phone repair supplies store. The tape was too wide and not thick enough, so I doubled it over. It fit perfectly once I did that. Unless you can find thicker double sided tape which is closer to the original adhesive, I would recommend this approach.
Step 15
Once the adhesive is all laid out on the phone, put the screen assembly on. I started from the top and slide the top cable through the hole, then slowly worked my way down to the bottom.
NOTE: I'd suggest you don't press too hard on the adhesive until you are sure that both cables are through to the back, and that the screen is sitting well in the body.
Step 16
Looking at the phone from the back, remove the adhesive backing from the display cable and carefully position the cable between the four black markers.
Step 17
After the new screen is fixed in, start the re-assembly. This is effectively the same as disassembly, but in reverse. There were only a couple of parts that I'd make note of:
a) Keep an eye on the display cable that comes in through the top. Mine got caught on the double sided tape, and needed to be pulled through.
b) You will need to use a little bit of force to mount the processor unit between the four plastic clips. Be careful when doing this. (shown in step 9)
c) I completely removed the double sided tape from under the battery and under the plastic case. I figured that if I need to go back into the phone, I wouldn't want to deal with the tape again. I'm glad I did, because the first screen was a dud.
d) If you lose any of the yellow plastic cable stickers, you can borrow a piece from your old display assembly.
Additional pictures:

Are those pictures too big? Someone let me know, I'll resize them.

thanks for the how-to!
i just have one question... where did u buy the screen with that exact code? all i've found is the one that's not working with u

Added to index, thanks for your work!

MegyK said:
thanks for the how-to!
i just have one question... where did u buy the screen with that exact code? all i've found is the one that's not working with u
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the one I bought http://r.ebay.com/fCPlmR

I suppose all the different versions might be my problem. My original screen is manufactured by AUO and is labeled as H546DAN03.4 MP1.0. So far I've gotten three replacements. Two with the XP31 code and one with the XP34. First XP31 only the backlight worked. Second touch screen didn't work. XP34 is acting the same as second XP31. Three attempts later I'm in the same boat. Google search brought up what appears to be an older version of the screen only. Now I'm thinking of sending it to Asus, if they'll still touch it, or call it a loss and buy myself a new phone. It still doesn't explain why the touch screen worked on the first but not the other two though.

alexjez05 said:
I suppose all the different versions might be my problem. My original screen is manufactured by AUO and is labeled as H546DAN03.4 MP1.0. So far I've gotten three replacements. Two with the XP31 code and one with the XP34. First XP31 only the backlight worked. Second touch screen didn't work. XP34 is acting the same as second XP31. Three attempts later I'm in the same boat. Google search brought up what appears to be an older version of the screen only. Now I'm thinking of sending it to Asus, if they'll still touch it, or call it a loss and buy myself a new phone. It still doesn't explain why the touch screen worked on the first but not the other two though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The nature of electronics means that it's entirely possible you damaged something in the process. I guess that's part of the risk you take when you go about a DIY repair.
Might be worth double checking all of those connections to make sure that you got them all plugged in.
Also, double check that the phone is charged?

alexjez05 said:
I suppose all the different versions might be my problem. My original screen is manufactured by AUO and is labeled as H546DAN03.4 MP1.0. So far I've gotten three replacements. Two with the XP31 code and one with the XP34. First XP31 only the backlight worked. Second touch screen didn't work. XP34 is acting the same as second XP31. Three attempts later I'm in the same boat. Google search brought up what appears to be an older version of the screen only. Now I'm thinking of sending it to Asus, if they'll still touch it, or call it a loss and buy myself a new phone. It still doesn't explain why the touch screen worked on the first but not the other two though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
make sure you slide in the connector on the top left (i think CON2001)

Excellent write up.. Thanks

Good work and excellent write up.

Help needed please.
Having problems after replacing the touch screen digitizer. Home Key, Return Key and Recent Applications keys not working. I am attaching a picture of the Screen Touch Test. The lower portion of display is not working and Home Screen and Navigation buttons are unresponsive

loveerslane said:
Having problems after replacing the touch screen digitizer. Home Key, Return Key and Recent Applications keys not working. I am attaching a picture of the Screen Touch Test. The lower portion of display is not working and Home Screen and Navigation buttons are unresponsive
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Almost certain that's caused by a loose cable - had a similar issue with mine. Open it up, check the cables are seated properly.

I have an issue now after replacing the screen where it says "Camera failed to launch. Please reboot." Did you ever see this, or better yet know of a solution. The connectors to the camera are ok as are all other connectors.

Very thanks

i used some rubbing alcohol to loosen up the adhesive for the battery. I lifted up one side of the battery and put a few drops of rubbing alcohol onto the adhesive. it worked perfectly to weaken the adhesive and i was able to pull the battery up without damaging the battery.
that was probably the hardest part of the repair.

I have a ZE551ML, i got the XP31 screen, and at first the touch did not work.
I double checked the cable from the screen to the main board.
Turned out there was tape on it. Moved the tape, reassembled, and the screen worked.
Details:
wisdomous.ca/BLOG/Asus_Zenfone2_screen_replacement_ZE551ML.htm
l

i have zenfone 2 one sim card slot not proper working

sunil9327 said:
i have zenfone 2 one sim card slot not proper working
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also have a similar problem after finally managing to get one screen working properly;
After changing two screens without being able to get touch to work I had to go back to my old, and seriously broken, screen - which still worked every time I remounted it
However, in a last move of desperation I checked the cable connections, cleaned them off just in case and especially wedging the tiny flat cable into its slot extra hard and deep... and at the second go, it just booted up as usual - with touch fully working (!!!)
Now almost all is well again, even though my old and new screen have completely different numbers...?
So maybe, what can sometimes be needed is to really shove the tiny flat cable from the screen (connects on the top left of the mainboard) into its slot and to boot and reboot more than twice to get touch active...?
On another note, for my personal sake, the SD-card slot seems to be malfunctioning, and if I have an SD mounted the phone reboots itself at some point and runs incredibly hot. So obviously I leave it out. However, as much as I wanted it to be due to the double sided flat cable (with SIM1/2 and SD slot) running across the battery between the mainboard and the speaker/usb-board, it seems that the actual connection on the mainboard has been damaged and probably needs to be replaced. But after extensive searching online I cannot find a single thing. I work in electronic manufacturing and would in theory easily be able to solder a new one in place.
Does anyone know what this is called?
PS. Maybe this last part should go into another thread, but the first paragraphs are on topic, I believe (and can maybe help someone...?)

Having some issues with it
I'm having problems with the touch screen. It started to be unresponsive some days after I replaced it, but it didn't notice it at the beginning because the problem wasn't serious. However, the following days it started to be always less responsive, and now the top part of the screen it doesn't response at all. Inexplicably, sometimes the touch screen works perfectly for some minutes, and then becomes totally unresponsive.
The software is up to date. Have you any idea of what's happening?

Question: screen adhesive to be purchased separately, or does it come with the screen? Thanks!

Tablet Took a Swim - Volume Rocker Stuck

Good morning;
So, my Nexus 7 took a swim. Fortunately it was a quick one and I was able to recover it quickly and it found it's way into a nice dry rice bath following.
There it sat for a few days until it was nice and dry. Power it on and blammo -- tries to boot into recovery or safe mode.
Fast forward to my best understand of what is happening -- it thinks the volume rocker is being pressed 100% of the time.
So, anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on what I may be able to do? I guess I'll have to buy some sort of replacement part -- but presumably it's not a modular component I can simply replace.
Think I can just 'remove' the volume control entirely?

StabbingHobo said:
Good morning;
So, my Nexus 7 took a swim. Fortunately it was a quick one and I was able to recover it quickly and it found it's way into a nice dry rice bath following.
There it sat for a few days until it was nice and dry. Power it on and blammo -- tries to boot into recovery or safe mode.
Fast forward to my best understand of what is happening -- it thinks the volume rocker is being pressed 100% of the time.
So, anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on what I may be able to do? I guess I'll have to buy some sort of replacement part -- but presumably it's not a modular component I can simply replace.
Think I can just 'remove' the volume control entirely?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just to be clear we're not talking about the plastic buttons protruding on the side of the tablet. Inside, barring some short on the circuit itself or fried components(this you can do by inspecting points of contact on the ribbon, the inside of the connector and the soldering traces at its end), the amber ribbon consisting of power, volume and microphone can be removed from the bezel by very slowly scraping the double-sided white tape underneath it from one end to the other (if you use a thin blade, make sure you insert it between the tape and the bezel and not between the tape and the ribbon itself).
Once out, you will notice that contact is made when the thin round metal plates are pressed together. There are 2 layers. If you again carefully peel off the upper layer (transparent mylar or film), you can see if anything is stuck in between (water or vapor), or that one plate is depressed permanently that it would make contact all the time.
The rest is just a matter of pushing it back to the normal position and realign both layers. Usually, there would be enough adhesive left for them to stick together without your having to add more.

graphdarnell said:
Just to be clear we're not talking about the plastic buttons protruding on the side of the tablet. Inside, barring some short on the circuit itself or fried components(this you can do by inspecting points of contact on the ribbon, the inside of the connector and the soldering traces at its end), the amber ribbon consisting of power, volume and microphone can be removed from the bezel by very slowly scraping the double-sided white tape underneath it from one end to the other (if you use a thin blade, make sure you insert it between the tape and the bezel and not between the tape and the ribbon itself).
Once out, you will notice that contact is made when the thin round metal plates are pressed together. There are 2 layers. If you again carefully peel off the upper layer (transparent mylar or film), you can see if anything is stuck in between (water or vapor), or that one plate is depressed permanently that it would make contact all the time.
The rest is just a matter of pushing it back to the normal position and realign both layers. Usually, there would be enough adhesive left for them to stick together without your having to add more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the reply.
Yes, the rocker buttons do continue to rock like a charm. I'll have to crack it open and have a look. Thank you for your advice.

I need help removing Nexus 5X screen

Hello guys,
I had an accident where I spilled liquid on top of my phone's screen, it was alcohol based, so it got through the bottom speaker and went to the screen layers. After a couple of days of trying to dry it out, there are still terrible looking streaks that look like water damage. I tried using a hair dryer and a suction tool from my car mount for the phone, to remove the screen, but it won't budge. This method worked easy with my old Nexus 5. Some heat, I pull up and it comes right off. With this - I heated as much as I can, and then pulled with all my strength, but screen will not come loose from the frame.
Has anyone removed the screen on their phone, or does anyone have experience in doing such things, to help me pull this off?
I believe that if I manage to remove the screen, and clean the layers, screen should be back to 100%.
I asked a friend of mine to lend me his heat gun, but I am afraid of applying too much heat and killing the LCD, or doing bad things to the plastic body of the phone.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Have you checked out the dismantle video on youtube? I believe you have to go through the back.

https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+5X+Teardown/51318

NO! I know how ti disassemble the phone... What you are posting doesn't even include the screen separation from the frame.

I have been watching videos a lot, but I myself, after following them, am unable to separate screen from frame. And to be fair there is just 1-2 videos out there that actually show people doing that. In one a dude used heat, a suction tool and a precision knife to lift the screen from the frame. I don't think using a metal tool on a heated plastic, to lift a glass is a good idea, especially when the adhesive is so strong. I guess the screen from that video has already been removed, that is why it looked so doable. I bet if I try that, I will f*ck up my pristine frame (phone is 1,5 months old)

You have to go through the back. See link https://youtu.be/Y8XpqwLsrUo

Same problem here, I cannot manage to separate the screen from the frame. Did you manage to remove it?

I broke that damn glass into pieces from the back holes, allowing me to insert a guitar plectrum and finally remove it all. Fixed