Develop Bugs

Galaxy S2 screen replacement photo tutorial.

Having stupidly cracked my screen last week I pulled the trigger on a replacement part from an eBay seller. Thanks go out to the people who graciously donated a few Euros/Dollars/Pounds/etc. to this cause. This tutorial is my thanks to you, and also to the wider XDA community for having provided me plenty of yummy Android fun ever since my first Galaxy S last July. Any subsequent donations are of course welcome (I have a bumper case to buy for obvious reasons) however thanks are also gladly received.
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This tutorial will be completed progressively, hence the various edits and reserved posts. Do bear with me. So here goes!
Tutorial complete! Enjoy. I am happy to help out with any questions, although please respect the following rules:
1. If you quote posts, please remove references to images. These are hosted on my own shared hosting space at the moment and I want to keep bandwidth down. Please refer to pictures either by step# or by using a URL link.
2. Please read the tutorial through from top to bottom before attempting to do this to your own phone. Despite this, neither myself or XDA can be held liable for you not paying attention or asking questions before carrying out the repair.
3. Stay on topic! I will use this at my own discretion:
I hope this proves useful and helps recover some dead in the water S2s!!!!

1. The patient with the battery, SIM card and SD card removed.
2. The new donor part.
3. All parts, connectors and their ribbon cables were checked for kinks or other faults.
4. I removed the seven screws securing the body's back panel. I test fitted my selected screwdriver for "bite" as there are many easily-damaged microSMD parts and fine tracks around the various PCBs. A magnetic tip helped remove the screws.

5. To part the rear plastic part of the body, a thin but stiff plastic separator was needed. A guitar pick was idea for this. Carry out these steps in a clean and organised environment! The captive buttons are easily lost and they literally drop out when you remove the rear bezel.
** under no circumstances use a flat-bladed screwdriver! One slip and you could find yourself with one dead phone if it scratches a PCB track or hits a component. **
I started at the corner nearest the headphone jack....
6. Then I slid the pick down the side to the bottom corner....
7. Cracked open the bottom....(fnar)
8. Before working up the other side to the top....
9. The cover came off easily from thereonin.
10. I familiarised myself with the components needing to be transplanted across. This amounts to the main L-shaped PCB and the front-facing camera/proximity detector. Everything else is part and parcel of the LED panel unit.
11. Working anticlockwise, I gently popped the five ribbon connectors with my nail. I took care not to force these as the connector density and therefore fragility are both high.
12. I found that the antenna connector was actually the hardest component to deal with. Popping it was no problem....reconnecting it however....but we'll get to that later....

13. I removed the two screws that hold the main PCB to the chassis. Although I have not yet seen this yet, I believe that some i9100s have miniature hex screws. Mine are standard crosstops (heh) which made life easier. Again, I checked my screwdriver for bite. If there was any play instead of a solid engagement with the screw then I would have needed to find a better screwdriver! This was a €500 decision, right there. One slip and you can easily say goodbye to those SMDs.
14. The buttons were secured to the chassis with a thin sticky tape. I used my plastic tool to gently separate them from the back, then pushed the switches upwards from underneath. I found that my pick was maybe a little too thick for this job. Perhaps a 0.60mm orange Tortex would have been better (!). Patience is needed here as this is not an easy job to carry out.
** do not try to pull them from the body by pulling the PCB! **
15. The PCB can be lifted right out. The ribbon cables tended to catch whilst I was doing this, so I needed to poke them underneath a bit.

Almost finished the dissection!
16. The final part to remove is the front-facing camera and proximity detector. Firstly, I needed to remove the cover from the proximity detector which comprised a tiny metal plate and a small pad. This needed to be pried up from the top for which I used a knife. This was perhaps not the best choice, so a pin or a fine flathead screwdriver might have been better. After removing this, the camera and detector were lifted out carefully.
17. Next I replaced the old chassis and started the process in reverse.
18. Firstly, the camera and detector were fitted. The thin metal plate was replaced and clipped into place using a quick poke from the screwdriver.
I'M IN UR BASE REFITTED UR DOODS
19. The PCB was carefully fitted taking care not to trap any of the ribbon connectors underneath or to scrape the board on the chassis.
20. I manoeuvred the switches into place, and thankfully they still had the majority of the sticky tape left on them. I took care to position them as close as possible with the slots. I didn't want any problems with the buttons not working!! I pressed them in from the side to allow the adhesive to do its job.
21. The two PCB screws were then replaced.

22. This was probably the most difficult part of the job. Smooth the antenna cable down in the groove with your plastic tool and secure in under the PCB, bringing it up through the small notch in the side of the PCB. Apologies for the lack of focus in the photo.
The difficult part is reattaching the antenna connector. I made several attempts at this, checking and rechecking the shape of the connector and failing to make it fit. This is a FRAGILE connector! Don't force it. When it mated, it needed relatively little effort. It was all an alignment job.
23. I finally reclipped all of the ribbon cables back together. Alignment was again of paramount important as the photos show. The force required to reseat these was no greater than the force it takes to press the volume or power button on the S2. Treat these with respect.

24. Reassembly of the case is made more difficult due to the captive buttons. Rather than trying to balance them whilst whanging the case back together, I progressively closed the case and slipped the buttons into the widened slots before closing the case around them. Far easier!
First, I clipped together the bottom corner of the "volume" side.
I then worked my way up to just below the opening for the volume button and slipped in the button insert.
The top "volume" corner was then closed.
Back at the bottom, I closed the "power" corner.
....then worked up to just below the button....
....slipped in the button....
....and cracked the entire case closed! Woo me.

25. I refitted the battery, SIM and SD card and powered up. 1% battery remaining.
....is this screenshot an advert?

Whoa mad skills. I would never be able nor have the time to do what you did.

Mic covering?
Thanks for your tutorail nice clear shots. Could you post a close up shot of the mic on board (white cover) and if poss with out the white covering and a shot of the covering please.
Reason I ask is some reports that removing this covering improves the mic audio on the SGS2. Thanks once again.

Nice tutorial, thanks. How much did the screen replacement cost?

You replaced whole housing with screen alredy attached, so this is not screen replacment. Rename thread.

£60 from ebay. Genuine SAMOLED+. I'll post a seller link when I get home. I'll have a look at the mic also.

ZhuraYuk said:
You replaced whole housing with screen alredy attached, so this is not screen replacment. Rename thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow. There's no pleasing some people.

This is where I bought my replacement:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180720196554#ht_500wt_1156
I've decided that I don't really want to go poking around inside my phone again at the moment. It isn't a difficult venture, however it is outside the bounds of the screen-replacement thing and I don't really want to go removing mine since I don't even know if it'll go back on, etc. The third picture in step 3 is pretty good, as is step 10.
The instructions on how to get to yours are up there also however! ;-D

Wow I think I won't even bother to try to replace my screen myself if it meets a mishap. Don't have skills to carry it out
I think you found yourself a new vocation though ^^ To repair screens haha.. Could make some money that way~

It's certainly not a difficult job. This took me about 20mins including photography. I could replace a screen or whatever you want to call it in about 4-5. That antenna is the worst bit! I wrote this so anyone carrying out this work knows that it is not labour-intensive.

As I said before you my friend have balls, but if it came to it again having done it would you not just take it to a service centre ?? Im still awaiting mine after a complete screen shatter(through no fault of my own they dont fly) I have a feeling though it make come back repaired, on a scale of 1-10 how difficult would you say this is to swap the phone to a new housing, I would be swapping everything over, unless i go to my service centre round the corner
Edit Scratch that just rang me there posting me a new phone on Tuesday

On a scale of 1-37 (how arbitrary) I would rate it about 12 on the basis that ham-fister work with the screwdriver can render the phone deader than a dead thing if those SMDs get chipped. If you discount that hazard, I would call it a 5.
Actually, if your scale of 1-37 had "desoldering, replacing and resoldering an SMD Intel ATOM chip" at "37" and writing your name as "1" then the scale makes more sense. If you've ever worked with micro miniature pitch ribbon cable connectors before, then perhaps less than 12. It truly is an easy-to-fix device which puts Apple's stupid "pentalobular" screw crap and general "stay-outishness" to shame. There are no weird connectors, permanently locked plastic security tags, thread lock gunk, glued up pieces or anything. I can understand why it would become a magnitude more difficult if you had to remove the glass from the bezel or whatever, but this is really a noddy job. Simpler than replacing the heatsink on your PC processor (sorry Apple, you don't count), changing the wheel on a car or cooking a reasonable French velouté soup.
As for a service centre, no. Definitely no. Sonera charge €50 just to look at it first, then the repair cost on top. Not sure of other avenues, but self repair is far better.

my display its ok and i am taking care of it..but this tutorial couldnt make me stay calm...amazing job you have done here mate. pics are superb and even link provided... you are worth my 5 thanks today... i hope we will have more people like you around here and then i will become a part of service centre - just watching stuff like this - great ...))
thanks again!!!!!!!

HTC Desire Screen Repair Guide

Does your outer touchscreen digitizer have been damaged or cracked? This writtien take apart repair guide shows how to disassemble your HTC Desire cell phone quickly and safely.
This guide will help you to install the following HTC Desire part(s):
HTC Desire Glass Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver
T5 Torx Screwdriver
HTC Desire Take apart guide:
First of all remove the back cover of the phone using safe open pry tool. Remove the micro SD card and the battery from the phone as well.
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Figure 1​
Remove the two void stickers from the locations A and B highlighted with cyan color in figure 1.
You will now need to unscrew three screws at the locations 1, 2 and 3 indicated in figure 1 by orange circles.
Pry up the back-bottom cover using safe open pry tool. The cover is highlighted with gray color in the figure 1 and an orange arrow points to a convenient location to start prying with.
You can now remove the back chassis which includes the battery compartment. To remove it you will need to pry it up using a safe open pry tool.
Figure 2​
Remove two more screws at the locations indicated in figure 2 by small circles 1 and 2.
Disconnect the antenna plug from the location A indicated in the figure 2.
Now carefully lift the camera PCB and remove the ‘Power’ button.
You will now need to disconnect three cable connectors from locations B, C and D shown in figure 2. Carefully lift up the connectors using safe open pry tool to unplug.
After unplugging the connectors you can now lift up and remove the camera PCB and primary PCB from the phone assembly. Remove it and put it aside.
The next step is to remove the ‘Volume’ button from the unit.
Once you have removed the ‘Volume’ button carefully loosen up the AMOLED and the keyboard assembly out of the chassis using safe open pry tool but do not remove these from the unit.
Figure 3​
Now lift up and remove the keyboard assembly. Note that you will have to peel off the part of keyboard assembly that is glued at the back of AMOLED. The location of keyboard assembly is shown in gray color in the figure 3.
The removal of the keyboard assembly from the unit will expose the keyboard’s key-caps. Pry up and remove the key-caps as well.
Peel the touch screen PCB assembly off the back of the AMOLED. Its location is highlighted by yellow colored area in figure 3.
The AMOLED should now be free to remove. Remove it and put it aside.
Figure 4​
Now in order to remove the touch screen digitizer from the phone chassis you will first need to peel off a sticky tape which connects the touch screen to the chassis. Then insert safe open pry tool in the edge between the chassis and digitizer from the back (as indicated by the arrows in figure 4), and pry up the digitizer. The digitizer will be adhered to the chassis and it will require a little bit of effort to separate the digitizer from the chassis. Note that once you have taken the digitizer out of the chassis you will need to remove the insulator from its flex cable and then run the flex cable from the gap in the chassis to separate it completely from the chassis (you may have to rotate the digitizer to let the flex cable run through the gap easily).
The HTC Desire is now disassembled and you can now replace the damaged part(s) with new ones. Reverse the instructions above to reassemble your phone.

Great guide! Thanks for sharing.
With the reassembly, your instructions say that the digitizer is glued to the chassis upon removal, will it need any special glues when replacing the new part??

777ace said:
Great guide! Thanks for sharing.
With the reassembly, your instructions say that the digitizer is glued to the chassis upon removal, will it need any special glues when replacing the new part??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. We always use new adhesive to ensure a secure bond. We recommend adhesive strips such as these here - Adhesive Strips
This adhesive is the correct thickness and won't damage the touch screen like super glue etc can.

repairsuniverse said:
[*]Disconnect the antenna plug from the location A indicated in the figure 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would suggest that you don't do this unless you absolutely have to. The GPS antenna is notoriously flimsy (mine broke just in the force of me removing it) and in fact they are not designed to be disconnected more than a few times - many users report that the board connector will often come away with very little force.
You certainly don't need to disconnect the GPS antenna to get to the screen - just remove the component parts with it still attached.

A video guide would be much more informative also, or at least a video to go with the written tutorial where you follow your own steps.

Video
Well I can't post external links yet but if you youtube "HTC Desire Disassembly Video" you will find the video straight from HTC on how to take it apart.
Great video, I used it to replace the earpiece on my desire.

I'm about to do this on a CDMA Desire (ADR6275) and just wanted to confirm that a digitizer that claims to be for an A8181 (or A8182 or A8183) will work. I've read threads where people replaced a digitizer that fit and looked correct, but some functions didn't work because it wasn't exactly the right part number.
If I get an ebay digitizer for an A8181, will it drop right in the ADR6275?
Thanks.

theophile2 said:
I'm about to do this on a CDMA Desire (ADR6275) and just wanted to confirm that a digitizer that claims to be for an A8181 (or A8182 or A8183) will work. I've read threads where people replaced a digitizer that fit and looked correct, but some functions didn't work because it wasn't exactly the right part number.
If I get an ebay digitizer for an A8181, will it drop right in the ADR6275?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The screen you need for you device can be found here - HTC Desire Touch Screen Digitizer
It is 100% compatible with that model.

A downloadable version of this Desire repair guide can be found here - it is a great way to print out the step-by-step process, allowing you to preform repairs.

Marsbar said:
I would suggest that you don't do this unless you absolutely have to. The GPS antenna is notoriously flimsy (mine broke just in the force of me removing it) and in fact they are not designed to be disconnected more than a few times - many users report that the board connector will often come away with very little force.
You certainly don't need to disconnect the GPS antenna to get to the screen - just remove the component parts with it still attached.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The same prob happend with me, but I was trolling with the antenna. So this is what I did: I've got an old motorola L6, and I disassembled it *for the 564-th time * and took out its antenna. Molded, bent and trimmed it a bit, and put it in my desire. It works fine, and seem to notice a slight better signal

If only part of the touch screen in unresponsive, would replacing the whole thing fix the problem?

Jadewaur said:
If only part of the touch screen in unresponsive, would replacing the whole thing fix the problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably. But first check if the cable is properly attached.

Do you carry the LCD Screen replacement for this device?

amith12 said:
Do you carry the LCD Screen replacement for this device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We sure do. Click the link in my signature to go to our website to order.

LCD vs touch screen
Ok I am sort of stuck so I would appreciate any help on this. I bought a touch screen for replacement, but as soon as I opened the back cover I realized my phone doesn't look like what's on this guide. I have a HTC Desire C. I was able to search Youtube and found a video with directions to disassemble Desire C all the way down to the touch screen. However, the guy in the video is trying to replace the piece that's black in color, just before the touch screen (which I assume is the LCD), then this question occurred to me: if only part of the touch screen of my phone is unresponsive, how do I figure out if the problem is with the touch screen or the LCD? Thank you.
---------- Post added at 08:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:55 PM ----------
Ok I sort of answered my own question. The screen display is ok, so based on that the LCD should be fine. Regarding the adhesive tape for Desire C, Amazon sells some generic adhesive tape 2mm in width, does anybody know if that's workable?

Jadewaur said:
Ok I am sort of stuck so I would appreciate any help on this. I bought a touch screen for replacement, but as soon as I opened the back cover I realized my phone doesn't look like what's on this guide. I have a HTC Desire C. I was able to search Youtube and found a video with directions to disassemble Desire C all the way down to the touch screen. However, the guy in the video is trying to replace the piece that's black in color, just before the touch screen (which I assume is the LCD), then this question occurred to me: if only part of the touch screen of my phone is unresponsive, how do I figure out if the problem is with the touch screen or the LCD? Thank you.
---------- Post added at 08:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:55 PM ----------
Ok I sort of answered my own question. The screen display is ok, so based on that the LCD should be fine. Regarding the adhesive tape for Desire C, Amazon sells some generic adhesive tape 2mm in width, does anybody know if that's workable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that should work, but if that adhesive isn't adequate we also sell the proper adhesive that will help with your repair. A link to our site can be found in our signature below.

HTC Desire tear-down and re-assembly
I dont know if anybody want this but if you want pictures here you are:
HTC Desire tear-down and re-assembly
Hope i provided some help..!

Alexcyan said:
I dont know if anybody want this but if you want pictures here you are:
HTC Desire tear-down and re-assembly
Hope i provided some help..!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Should definitely help some people.

I just got finished replacing my top screen on my HTC Desire 510, when I turn the phone on, I can hear it turn on but the screen stays black, any idea what could be wrong? I've checked the cable connections. Other than a shattered top screen it worked fine before. Is there anyway to check the screen itself, to make sure I didn't receive a bad one? I was careful changing it, and didn't run into any problems doing so. Thanks

Ripela1 said:
I just got finished replacing my top screen on my HTC Desire 510, when I turn the phone on, I can hear it turn on but the screen stays black, any idea what could be wrong? I've checked the cable connections. Other than a shattered top screen it worked fine before. Is there anyway to check the screen itself, to make sure I didn't receive a bad one? I was careful changing it, and didn't run into any problems doing so. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is desire bravo not 510.

My experience fixing Xperia PLAY phones.

In addition to the constant influx of iPods and iPhones friends, family, and coworkers bring me to fix, I've taken apart a few different Xperia PLAY phones more times than I can count, so I thought I'd give a few "pro tips" to people who need to know the ins and outs of it. This isn't a disassembly, assembly, or even a repair guide, it's just the stuff I think those guys missed.
First, don't use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the front glass + digitizer. The plastic frame wrinkles and melts readily, particularly right under the face buttons.
Second, make sure you transfer as much as possible when you replace the frame. Replacement frames usually do not include the rubber shroud for the proximity sensor and it will not work right without it. I had one phone that seemingly worked fine until the screen protector peeled off while inserting in a pocket and then no amount of clear tape, screen protectors, or Sharpie-marking would fix it. A salvaged rubber shroud fixed it right up. Some replacement frames have a film-backed adhesive for holding it there and some don't. It probably depends on when they were yanked from the manufacturing line, assuming that they are original parts and not replica parts. You also want to make sure you transfer are the inner dust gasket that goes underneath the frame/glass or else things will be filling up with dust quickly. There is no speaker grill and the foam around it does not stop intrusion. A salvaged frame/glass adhesive is likely to allow dust in unless you didn't have to pick much out of it when swapping (usually glass shards). There are also little metallic grounding foam rectangles crammed in the corners that only one replacement frame I've seen has ever included (was probably salvage though listed as "new"). They probably aren't necessary and I've gone long periods without them, but why wonder if a static charge build up is responsible for your erratic touch screen?
Next, be extremely careful separating the glass from the frame. I've managed to crack good ones even going slowly and leaving gaps filled with picks and pry tools. Heat didn't seem to help much and, as mentioned earlier, is discouraged. Cleaning the screen after man-handling it isn't always easy, but don't avoid touching the back side because you will probably need the area to spread the pressure and avoid a crack. I use a levered "mini suction cup" from Harbor Freight on the top side and as many fingers as spread out as I can on the bottom, but the suction cup is near useless on a cracked screen (even tape-coated). I do suggest covering a shattered screen with tape to hold all the bits together but you are still going to have a hard time cleaning the adhesive up. You can always buy a frame with digitizer pre-installed but I know a lot of you want to buy complete replacement housings instead and it's kind of a waste, but at least you don't need to worry about that adhesive (still: don't forget to transfer the other bits!).
The digitizer parts I've salvaged from phones had higher version numbers than the ones I've seen sold as replacement parts and seemed to be more erratic so I prefer salvaged ones. There can be other problems as well. The flat flex cable from the digitizer is supposed to have an adhesive backing that holds it still where it connects to the tiny cable from the earpiece. Replacements often do not have it, which is yet ANOTHER reason to prefer salvage parts. It may not seem like such a big deal considering that there is a black plastic piece screwed down over it to protect it from getting caught in the mechanism, but the connector does not hold on very well and the phone will not boot if it is slightly out of alignment. If you reassemble it and just get a buzz from the vibration motor with no display and no other sign of booting, check this connection (same thing if the digitizer suddenly stops registering touch). Even a small drop/impact will cause it to happen again, so I recommend securing it with precisely cut tape or hot glue (stay clear of the sliding rails).
Now, keep it clean while you work or you will be staring at that contaminate or thumbprint for a long time. I usually wear fresh latex gloves when working on the glass but it doesn't do much good if you keep transferring oils from the rest of the phone. Wash your hands right before you start and clean the outside of the phone. Before you begin, try just touch a used dish soap dispenser with a damp thumb and run all along to screen except the buttons and earpiece. Do it again with just the damp thumb (dilutes the soap that remained from the first pass) and wipe it with a clean lint-free cloth. Your own clean and dry fingertips/palm should readily absorb any remaining streaks/oils. Be sure to wipe down the rest of the phone too and don't transfer it back to the glass. Once inside I use layer after layer of clear tape to lift gunk from the earpiece (no mesh, remember?). Put on new gloves before you start handling the glass after disassembly, even if you were wearing some for disassembly. To clean the back of the glass I put the adhesive between wax paper while I clean using lint-free cloths, 90+% alcohol, and acetone. For the LCD, use tape to lift most contaminates and resort to alcohol + lint-free cloth if that doesn't work. It doesn't need to be too perfect, especially if scratched from cracked glass. Most imperfections only show when it's off.
Hot glue is great for removing adhesive screw covers without showing pick marks or other signs of tampering but you have to make sure to leave an edge exposed so that you aren't just picking it out of the glue instead. I've been getting mine off cleanly without any tricks like this but it came in handy when I was first disassembling one and there weren't any guides to tell me that there weren't screws under the large silver strip (just covers rivets or injections mold points, IIRC). It's also good for sealing off water sensors, like the one you see through a hole under the battery door. There's another one by the contacts on the battery itself, one by the microphone under the gamepad, and one in the opposite corner under the PS Certified logo. I had an AT&T rep tell me that a brand new phone had a tripped water sensor (LIES!) so I would look for ways to do this with most any new phone.
I can't count how many times I've left the power button out while reassembling. It's not usually that I forgot: It's that it falls out while snapping the back on. I've left the face buttons out a few times too.
My first one had the cable folded wrong after reassembly. It still worked fine for a couple years but did eventually require replacement. Once it folds wrong it'll probably stay that way even after correct reassembly (like mine did). Do not try to attach it to the main PCB using a spudger, butterknife, or whatever to awkwardly push the connector down with everything pulled apart. The only thing you need to do is to slide the cable into the phone's closed position, align the plastic posts on the connector with the corresponding holes on the PCB, and then push down on the PCB until it snaps. I'm sure I tried this first back then but chickened out because the connector didn't snap very easily but that is how you are supposed to do it.
Before I talk about the replacing the slide cable, I want to express my annoyance at all the eBay/YouTube/iFixIt.com people who call it a "flex cable." I don't like the term flex cable because generally ALL cables should be flexible and that doesn't distinguish what it is well enough for people looking for the part. Technically, it's a flat cable or a slide cable, though I wouldn't object to it being called a flex PCB (flex PCBs usually have components other than just connectors like a rigid printed circuit board would). "Flex cable" is silly, redundant, and does not describe anything more specific than just "cable." To complicate matters, there are several actual flex PCBs in this phone to distinguish from when ordering the part. Why did so many people start calling flex PCBs "flex cables" in the first place?! In our case the sliding portion is a *flat* cable, so I can see where "cable" was introduced from, but people say "flex cable" for any flat cable made like a flex PCB these days whether fixed or sliding. At least you know now that you are probably going to have to use the incorrect terminology to find what you want online and sift through many useless results.
*whew*
Now, slide cable replacement is easier than it would seem but intact removal isn't and brand new replacements can be defective. It was a troubleshooting nightmare when I encountered a defective one because I replaced the LCD and glass + digitizer at the same time and suspected/checked everything else first, even taking apart my personal phone multiple times to test parts. The plastic part of the connector on the PCB end must be transferred to the new cable and the old one will not reliably stick back down to it even if you did not contaminate the adhesive. I successfully transferred a cable from a water-damaged phone to my personal phone before fixing up the water-damaged donor phone with a new one, so the adhesive on the salvaged part was weak and I didn't realize how hard it was to remove intact until later. When separating the defective new one there was seemingly no place to pry on one end other than underneath the part where the earpiece/camera connector was located. This broke the side of the connector that holds the locking flap though I was still able to use/lock it. I claimed warranty on the defective part anyway because the connector was not needed for proving the cable was defective (a functional cable works with that connector populated or not). This new part was slightly different from those found originally installed in the phone (different colored plastic connectors and such). The second new one I ordered from elsewhere had double-sided adhesive down the middle, a foil quality control sticker, and the same odd connector colors. I didn't think there was a market for replica parts on this phone but it does seem like more than simple factory revisions. Anyway, removing it involves removing metallic tape then lifting a plate that is still adhered underneath with amber-colored Kapton tape. You can see it from the slide mechanism below. I pinch the plate from above and below with two fingers and lift, gradually peeling the tape which I then fold inside and secure to avoid contaminating the adhesive. The cable has a plastic band across it that fits between fingers on this plate. When secured, this isolates the end with multiple connectors from the movement of the sliding portion, so make sure this is in place when reinstalling. It may be best to avoid removing the adhesive backing paper until after the plate and cable are securely taped back down with both the Kapton and metallic tape while the fingers are holding it in position. If you stick it down first and then secure the plate you may find it slightly too long or short to position inside the plate when securing it all back down. To thread the main connector through the slide board opening it may seem that it will only fit by folding the cable but DON'T! Coil it. Without flattening it, bend the connector 90-degrees over from the cable path and then adjust the angle until you have a coil-shape that you can work through with the connector sideways.
I ordered a "no useable parts" dummy phone just for the heck of it and, other than the Sony Ericsson logo on the fake battery door and maybe the stickers that cover the screws, they really don't have any salvageable parts. You can't swap any buttons, keys, springs, covers, etc into a real phone. The closest would be the face buttons. They will fit in a real phone, but they are too tall and put constant pressure on the PCB switches causing unintended key-presses (especially back and search buttons). The extra height easily protrudes out the top and is not the issue so filing them down vertically won't fix anything. I snipped some excess rubber to more closely match the design of the original buttons but it didn't help. I unscrewed the screw in the corner under the search key and unsnapped the bottom edge of the frame from the back/slide board and they work great until the phone inevitably snaps back together. I'd say they felt better then the original with the extra height (I can't stand how close they are to the screen). It's tolerable with ICS/JB's Navigation Bar (on-screen key functions), but I would rather salvage real buttons or pay too much for the eBay ones ($10-$20; very uncommon part; always sold with crap you probably don't need).
I have yet to find a replacement battery door that includes the rubber trim around the speakers and the foam piece surrounding the rear/noise-canceling microphone. I've ordered a few auctions that show them in the pictures but they always arrive bare. You can transfer them with a razor but it likely won't be perfect. Without them the speaker audio will probably echo around inside the battery compartment and make its way into the mic, though people usually don't notice it. Painting on some Plasti-Dip might do the trick, so try that if it bothers you.
Unlike an iPhone with a million different screws, you don't have to keep track of what goes where and everything is easily accessible. Bare minimum to take it all apart: Some fingernails, a T5 or T6 (pick one) and a PH0, 00, or 000 Phillips (pick one). There don't seem to be any tamper/warranty seals and the only concealed screws are the two obvious ones underneath metallic cover stickers on the display/slide board. There are no screws under tape or labels and no water sensors covering them either. All 6 Phillips screws are the same size but you'll likely want to keep the two with adhesive in their original holes to re-use the covers (adhesive usually remains on the screw instead of the cover). There are only two different Torx screw types but it's obvious what goes where (6 stubby flat ones on the top and bottom, 7 long thin ones around the battery area).
There are bits and bobs taped to and embedded in the rear housing including antenna/RF stuff, some more obvious that others. I've compared and the R800x is very different from the R800at even though the plastic frame looks really similar (R800x has a blocked SIM slot, of course). IMO, any housing swap should be limited to the front frame, the gamepad, and the battery door (only colored parts anyway). If you nicked your chrome, hopefully it was on a button or something that can be swapped (springs are a pain). It may be possible to transfer everything but I wouldn't trust it after all the peeling and picking. The one report I've seen of someone transferring between a GSM/CDMA models seems blissfully unaware of the metal wire behind the volume keys on the CDMA model that isn't there on GSM (at least it's not there on my R800at GSM).
That's all my advice for now. If you are having any trouble, let me know.

Excellent guide, thank you for taking the time to type this up. I think a mod should sticky this.....

Awesome guide! Thanks much for it!
@ozzmanj1 Agree, so more people will notice it.

Thanks for help buddy!!!

As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.

So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!

Arevyn said:
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens

Arevyn said:
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am color blind and never took notice but I switched LCD between R800i, R800x, and R800at and they were all compatible. They have no reason to make anything in that half of the phone different, so they don't.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

narflynn619 said:
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....

matfai said:
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

CZroe said:
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?

matfai said:
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my experience, cable alignment has also been an all or nothing issue so you probably need to replace the digitizer. It couldn't hurt to realign the digitizer cable first just in case it can avoid an unnecessary expense. That fixed a Cubot C9+ I worked on Saturday (digitizer not working at all) but not the iPhone 4S I worked on yesterday (bottom row of digitizer not responding).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

stuck in safe mode after replace slider cable(flex)
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post

docsmiley said:
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)

Bakisha said:
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.

docsmiley said:
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have received a defective flex cable before so it's possible you have also. In my case it didn't work at all (no picture).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

Thanks for your replies I'll see if I can get it replaced
Sendt fra min Galaxy S4 med Tapatalk

slide flex replacement
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,

dashu31 said:
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are the same. I have also switched then between a "4G" R800at and a R800x. I have also received bad digitizer flex cables that were new. It really is luck of the draw. A lot of replacement parts on eBay are factory seconds, which may have been removed from the production line for good reason. That's why I always order parts in sets of two for anything I know I will need in the future and I always test both. For example, recently I got two iPhone 4S screens and one had the frame installed upside down. Before that I ordered two replacement iPhone 4 30-pin dock replacements and one had a defective microphone. Before that I ordered two iPod touch 2G digitizer/frame assemblies and one didn't work along the left side.
Here I am identifying a couple bad iPhone displays from a lot:
http://youtu.be/TbxzCiGhwPM
I didn't own an iPhone so I had to test them all with the phone the first customer provided.
Edit: Oh! And make sure the problem is not with the digitizer connection under the black plastic cover. Mine works it's way loose all the time and needs to be secured with tape. Even when inserted fully straight and locked, I put it together and find it not working or the display black until I take it back apart and reseat it. It will twist slightly and even the slightest angle affects the connection.

HTC Windows Phone 8S Screen Repair Take Apart Guide

The helpful techs at Repairs Universe have put together this screen repair guide for the HTC Windows Phone 8S. This take apart guide will help walk you through all of the necessary steps to safely disassemble your Windows Phone 8S to perform repairs such as a replacing a cracked or broken screen or even internal components that may have stopped working.
This repair guide will help you install the following Windows Phone 8S parts:
Windows Phone 8S Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Windows Phone 8S LCD Screen Replacement
Windows Phone 8S LCD + Touch Screen Assembly
Recommended Repair Tools:
Small Phillips Screwdriver (#00)
T5 Torx Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips
Safe Open Pry Tool
Spudger Opening Tool
Heat Gun or Blow dryer
How to fix a Windows Phone 8S (Step-by-Step Tutorial) :
Before you begin make sure you fully power off your device.
Next take your pry tool or fingernail and remove the bottom back cover. From here you will need to remove your sim card and/or micro SD card.
With this cover removed you can take your Torx T5 screwdriver and remove the two (2) screws circled in the figure shown below.
Now taking your safe open pry tool start prying off the back housing by releasing the clips holding it in place. (Be careful not to damage or break these clips.)
See figure below for reference:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
With the back housing removed you can now remove the six (6) Small Phillips (#00) screws circled in the figure below.
Please note that the screws circled in BLUE are a different size from the screws circled in RED.
There will also be a small black protective cover that can be removed with the screws circled in BLUE.
See figure below for screw locations:
Now with the screws removed you want to lift out the battery and fold it over to the side where the flex cable is still connected.
You can now remove the black housing covering its connection.
Now taking your pry tool gently release the battery connection and remove it from the device.
See figure below for reference:
Now taking your pry tool you will need to gently peel up the three components from the housing highlighted in GREEN in the figure below. These are the volume buttons, vibrator motor and power button.
Be cautious not to rip or tear their connections. You will only need to release them from the housing in order to remove the motherboard. (The volume and power buttons are held down with a little adhesive, the vibrator motor has it's own nest in the housing.)
You will also need to remove the protective tape covering the connections highlighted in BLUE in the figure below. Then use your pry tool to safely release their jaw-bone connections.
With these components now freed from the housing you can now safely pry up and lift out the motherboard. (Use caution when handling the motherboard.)
Next you will want to remove the protective tape covering the mid-frame and the back of the LCD screen from the slots in the housing. (Highlighted in RED in the figure below)
You now will want to gently peel up the ribbon cable(s) pointed out with red arrows in the figure below. These arrows point in the direction to which you will want to peel these cables from the housing. (Use caution not to rip or tear these flex ribbon cables.)
You will also need to take your spudger and gently lift up the copper colored film from the back of the LCD screen to be able to remove it from the housing without any issues.
See figure below for reference:
To proceed you will need to take your heat source and apply heat to the front and back of the mid-frame and screen assembly.
A medium heat setting hovering roughly 3-4 inches away from the device is ideal. Evenly heat these areas for roughly 30-45 second intervals. (Be cautious not to hover over any flex cables you may not want to damage.)
The adhesive holding the back of the LCD to the mid-frame is quite strong. You will need to apply enough heat to the back of the frame to loosen this adhesive enough to remove the screen assembly.
See figure below for reference:
With the screen and mid-frame properly heated you can begin prying the LCD + digitizer assembly starting from the back of the mid-frame.
We found that using a spudger opening tool is ideal to get between the LCD and this mid-frame. Insert the chisel end of your spudger through these slots in the frame as demonstrated in the figure below.
While attempting to remove the screen assembly from the mid-frame insert your spudger in a slot in the housing and use a second pry tool to work around the edges of the screen. The spudger will give you enough space for extra prying leverage and keep the LCD from re-adhering to the adhesive on the frame.
Once enough of the adhesive is releasing the screen assembly you should be able to remove the screen assembly completely from the mid-frame.
Be cautious of the flex cables when sliding them through the slots in the housing.
See figure below for reference:
Notice: Repairs Universe's repair guides are for informational and learning purposes only. Anyone attempting to repair their device should do so at your own risk.

Speaker
You guys rock! Helping me do a bunch of repairs for my customers but I wanted to know if the ear speaker from the WP8X will fit the WP8S....Glad to be the first to post also!

One question. Do I need to follow this guide to replace the digitizer and do I need to remove the screen if I want to replace it ? And also, do you void warranty if you open just the backside?
Here is the link(that you know what i mean): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Repair-pa...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item2ec9d7a01d
Thanks!

Is there a way to only replace the digitizer?

dna² said:
Is there a way to only replace the digitizer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can try but the LCD is bonded to the touch screen in a way that makes it very difficult. I'd suggest using a full screen assembly.

repairsuniverse said:
You can try but the LCD is bonded to the touch screen in a way that makes it very difficult. I'd suggest using a full screen assembly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a digitizer and will try to carefully replace the original one that is totally shattered right now. At the moment i use the screen with tape on it, becuase bits of the screen are falling off. I will try to report back after i failed or succeeded, but that will take some time(just ordered the digitizer). Maybe i will post some before/after pics. :fingers-crossed:

dna² said:
I bought a digitizer and will try to carefully replace the original one that is totally shattered right now. At the moment i use the screen with tape on it, becuase bits of the screen are falling off. I will try to report back after i failed or succeeded, but that will take some time(just ordered the digitizer). Maybe i will post some before/after pics. :fingers-crossed:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, please do!

Hey,
is the internal storage also a micro-SD? Do you know if it's possible to replace the storage with a bigger sd-card?

dexter morgan said:
Hey,
is the internal storage also a micro-SD? Do you know if it's possible to replace the storage with a bigger sd-card?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has an easy to reach mirco sd slot right next to the simcard slot.

dna² said:
It has an easy to reach mirco sd slot right next to the simcard slot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm, i also guess that it has an easy to reach touchscreen display on the front of the phone...
I just wanted to ask u guys (specially the guys/or girls/ who disassembled the phone) if there's any possibility to change the internal storage...for example it was possible with my old HTC HD7...but found out that the internal storage is fixed with the board

dexter morgan said:
hmm, i also guess that it has an easy to reach touchscreen display on the front of the phone...
I just wanted to ask u guys (specially the guys/or girls/ who disassembled the phone) if there's any possibility to change the internal storage...for example it was possible with my old HTC HD7...but found out that the internal storage is fixed with the board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have to wait for the digitizer before i open it up, but my guess is it's fixed to the board somewhere or is it really that common to have 2 SD slots?
Edit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHGZnMUk6KA i couldn't see any removable SD card, but maybe it's behind of one of those covers on the mainboard?

would be great if you could post some photos if you see the slot... must soldered into the board but maybe with some skilful hands it's possible to change...

What i am propaply going to try or at least something similar:
eheheh said:
well it isnt fake that the digitizer cant be separated from the lcd!!!!
this is bull**** myth!!! of course that technicians and in the stores tell you that isnt possible, more easy for them, and they make more money!!!!
this pics were taken from a spanish mobiles forum, his nickname samsungnia
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was posted in the Motorola Droid RAZR forum here on xda.

I like this technique, thanks for posting!

I did it! I got the Digitizer off. Too bad the new digitizer isn't here yet :/
I accidently cut the navigation flex cable damn.

DNA89 said:
I did it! I got the Digitizer off. Too bad the new digitizer isn't here yet :/
I accidently cut the navigation flex cable damn.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, congrats! Looks like that wasn't too easy, but that's awesome.

Yeah it took me a while, now i need to remove the rest of the glue and wait for the digitizer and the flex cable replacement.

dexter morgan said:
would be great if you could post some photos if you see the slot... must soldered into the board but maybe with some skilful hands it's possible to change...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There realy is no slot for a internal sd card. All important motherboard components where hidden behind a metal cover.
Progress: I removed all the adhesive left on the lcd with a adhesive remover. It works great, but now i see that i should have used that motorola digitizer removal technique. There are a few scratches on the lcd that hopefully aren't too visible after putting a ditizer on it.
@repairsuniverse would you guys put new adhesive between lcd and digitizer? I saw a video on youtube were a few guys used some sort of UV adhesive. Not exactly for the htc 8s but for other phones. Can i skip that part? Btw all the UV light i have is from the sun

DNA89 said:
There realy is no slot for a internal sd card. All important motherboard components where hidden behind a metal cover.
Progress: I removed all the adhesive left on the lcd with a adhesive remover. It works great, but now i see that i should have used that motorola digitizer removal technique. There are a few scratches on the lcd that hopefully aren't too visible after putting a ditizer on it.
@repairsuniverse would you guys put new adhesive between lcd and digitizer? I saw a video on youtube were a few guys used some sort of UV adhesive. Not exactly for the htc 8s but for other phones. Can i skip that part? Btw all the UV light i have is from the sun
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were on the right track, you will need UV adhesive for that to be successful.

Hi, my son has smashed the screen of his HTC 8s and I was wondering how easy it was to replace the screen or if it is better for me to take it to a shop to be repaired.
Many thanks

replacing screen from zenfone 2 551

Hi all,
i'm very disappointed because i'm just breaking my screen when my zenfone fall of 60cm.
LCD is ok but screen is dead
On ebay i know you can find only the screen with kit, and LCD + screen
Does any one have advice for replacing the screen or screen + lcd? (video or pictures).
Asus France ask me 180€ to change that
thank for your help...

pulesky said:
Hi all,
i'm very disappointed because i'm just breaking my screen when my zenfone fall of 60cm.
LCD is ok but screen is dead
On ebay i know you can find only the screen with kit, and LCD + screen
Does any one have advice for replacing the screen or screen + lcd? (video or pictures).
Asus France ask me 180€ to change that
thank for your help...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems pretty easy, please check these videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMIivqu6XJY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4HZt3Aadsc

I ordered a screen replacement on AliExpress. I've only cracked the glass on my phone, but I don't think it's possible to replace the glass on its own. (Unless you have the hands of a neurosurgeon and special equipment.)
Tried changing screen today, but it requires a complete disassemble of the unit. I managed to remove the back and disconnect the components, however I wasn't able to remove the battery since it seems to be glued (?) in place on one side. I even tried using quite a bit of force, but eventually I chickened out since the battery started bending. I have no idea how they do it so easily in the video. If anyone here has managed this disassemble I'd be very interested in getting some details.

dodongobongo said:
I ordered a screen replacement on AliExpress. I've only cracked the glass on my phone, but I don't think it's possible to replace the glass on its own. (Unless you have the hands of a neurosurgeon and special equipment.)
Tried changing screen today, but it requires a complete disassemble of the unit. I managed to remove the back and disconnect the components, however I wasn't able to remove the battery since it seems to be glued (?) in place on one side. I even tried using quite a bit of force, but eventually I chickened out since the battery started bending. I have no idea how they do it so easily in the video. If anyone here has managed this disassemble I'd be very interested in getting some details.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try using a hair dryer on the battery for a minute, but keep moving the hair dryer up and down, to spread the heat all over, this should make the glue soft enough to make it easier to peel the battery off.

Finally managed to replace the screen. This one was really difficult to repair compared to the previous phones I've worked on, but maybe in part because there are no complete instructions out there yet. Lots of glue and tape holding it all together.
The battery isn't really glued, but rather held down by some sticky plastic. (Kinda like chewing gum.) I don't think heating will help here. I used a long, flat plastic object to reach underneath and loosen it from the battery.
I forgot to take pictures, but here are the steps I took. You can find some photos for the first half of the procedure.
Remove 14 screws from the back cover
Carefully remove back plastic cover (double sided tape on center)
Unplug the three connectors going to the top PCB/SoC (these are screen, SIM/SD and battery)
Remove speaker (black piece at the bottom, nothing is holding it in place)
Remove bottom PCB: flip up the little black switch to loosen the connector cable next to the battery, then unplug the wire going to the top PCB, then you can remove it. Vibrator piece doesn't need to be unplugged.
Battery can now be removed, but is as mentioned fastened very well. Try to pull it up on the left side to reach under it.
Unplug digitizer connector on the left side of the top PCB. Just peel off the yellow take and pull it out.
Peel loose the part of the metallic shielding that fastened the top PCB to the surface under where the battery was.
Top PCB can now be removed, start from right side.
Peel off the little "sticker" the digitizer connector goes to. This is probably part of what you're replacing, so it doesn't matter if you destroy it in the process. Otherwise try heating it.
Screen can finally be removed. It's removed from the front of the phone, same as for Zenfone 5. Start at the bottom. It's fastened with glue along all sides. If you're hoping not to ruin the LCD while removing the screen you will probably need a heat gun and extreme patience.

dodongobongo said:
Finally managed to replace the screen. This one was really difficult to repair compared to the previous phones I've worked on, but maybe in part because there are no complete instructions out there yet. Lots of glue and tape holding it all together.
The battery isn't really glued, but rather held down by some sticky plastic. (Kinda like chewing gum.) I don't think heating will help here. I used a long, flat plastic object to reach underneath and loosen it from the battery.
I forgot to take pictures, but here are the steps I took. You can find some photos for the first half of the procedure.
Remove 14 screws from the back cover
Carefully remove back plastic cover (double sided tape on center)
Unplug the three connectors going to the top PCB/SoC (these are screen, SIM/SD and battery)
Remove speaker (black piece at the bottom, nothing is holding it in place)
Remove bottom PCB: flip up the little black switch to loosen the connector cable next to the battery, then unplug the wire going to the top PCB, then you can remove it. Vibrator piece doesn't need to be unplugged.
Battery can now be removed, but is as mentioned fastened very well. Try to pull it up on the left side to reach under it.
Unplug digitizer connector on the left side of the top PCB. Just peel off the yellow take and pull it out.
Peel loose the part of the metallic shielding that fastened the top PCB to the surface under where the battery was.
Top PCB can now be removed, start from right side.
Peel off the little "sticker" the digitizer connector goes to. This is probably part of what you're replacing, so it doesn't matter if you destroy it in the process. Otherwise try heating it.
Screen can finally be removed. It's removed from the front of the phone, same as for Zenfone 5. Start at the bottom. It's fastened with glue along all sides. If you're hoping not to ruin the LCD while removing the screen you will probably need a heat gun and extreme patience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just cracked my phone. :crying:Thanks for the instructions. Before I decide to do this, are any of the adhesives necessary to put the phone back together?

Yes, order some double-tape for cellphones.
Glad I'm not the only one that succeded althought I scrapped the battery in my case .
I followed mostly the same steps but for anyone that want some pictures, I posted them in another thread
http://forum.xda-developers.com/zenfone2/help/q-lcd-replacement-procedure-t3135165

Can asus ze550ml screen will fit to ze550kl model

@Ptselv: probably best to start a new thread rather than hijack one that is several months old.
And to answer your question: No, a ZE550ML screen will not fit a ZE550KL phone. My suggestion: search AliExpress.com for "ze551kl digitizer" and you'll be likely to find what you need.