Having stupidly cracked my screen last week I pulled the trigger on a replacement part from an eBay seller. Thanks go out to the people who graciously donated a few Euros/Dollars/Pounds/etc. to this cause. This tutorial is my thanks to you, and also to the wider XDA community for having provided me plenty of yummy Android fun ever since my first Galaxy S last July. Any subsequent donations are of course welcome (I have a bumper case to buy for obvious reasons) however thanks are also gladly received.
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This tutorial will be completed progressively, hence the various edits and reserved posts. Do bear with me. So here goes!
Tutorial complete! Enjoy. I am happy to help out with any questions, although please respect the following rules:
1. If you quote posts, please remove references to images. These are hosted on my own shared hosting space at the moment and I want to keep bandwidth down. Please refer to pictures either by step# or by using a URL link.
2. Please read the tutorial through from top to bottom before attempting to do this to your own phone. Despite this, neither myself or XDA can be held liable for you not paying attention or asking questions before carrying out the repair.
3. Stay on topic! I will use this at my own discretion:
I hope this proves useful and helps recover some dead in the water S2s!!!!
1. The patient with the battery, SIM card and SD card removed.
2. The new donor part.
3. All parts, connectors and their ribbon cables were checked for kinks or other faults.
4. I removed the seven screws securing the body's back panel. I test fitted my selected screwdriver for "bite" as there are many easily-damaged microSMD parts and fine tracks around the various PCBs. A magnetic tip helped remove the screws.
5. To part the rear plastic part of the body, a thin but stiff plastic separator was needed. A guitar pick was idea for this. Carry out these steps in a clean and organised environment! The captive buttons are easily lost and they literally drop out when you remove the rear bezel.
** under no circumstances use a flat-bladed screwdriver! One slip and you could find yourself with one dead phone if it scratches a PCB track or hits a component. **
I started at the corner nearest the headphone jack....
6. Then I slid the pick down the side to the bottom corner....
7. Cracked open the bottom....(fnar)
8. Before working up the other side to the top....
9. The cover came off easily from thereonin.
10. I familiarised myself with the components needing to be transplanted across. This amounts to the main L-shaped PCB and the front-facing camera/proximity detector. Everything else is part and parcel of the LED panel unit.
11. Working anticlockwise, I gently popped the five ribbon connectors with my nail. I took care not to force these as the connector density and therefore fragility are both high.
12. I found that the antenna connector was actually the hardest component to deal with. Popping it was no problem....reconnecting it however....but we'll get to that later....
13. I removed the two screws that hold the main PCB to the chassis. Although I have not yet seen this yet, I believe that some i9100s have miniature hex screws. Mine are standard crosstops (heh) which made life easier. Again, I checked my screwdriver for bite. If there was any play instead of a solid engagement with the screw then I would have needed to find a better screwdriver! This was a €500 decision, right there. One slip and you can easily say goodbye to those SMDs.
14. The buttons were secured to the chassis with a thin sticky tape. I used my plastic tool to gently separate them from the back, then pushed the switches upwards from underneath. I found that my pick was maybe a little too thick for this job. Perhaps a 0.60mm orange Tortex would have been better (!). Patience is needed here as this is not an easy job to carry out.
** do not try to pull them from the body by pulling the PCB! **
15. The PCB can be lifted right out. The ribbon cables tended to catch whilst I was doing this, so I needed to poke them underneath a bit.
Almost finished the dissection!
16. The final part to remove is the front-facing camera and proximity detector. Firstly, I needed to remove the cover from the proximity detector which comprised a tiny metal plate and a small pad. This needed to be pried up from the top for which I used a knife. This was perhaps not the best choice, so a pin or a fine flathead screwdriver might have been better. After removing this, the camera and detector were lifted out carefully.
17. Next I replaced the old chassis and started the process in reverse.
18. Firstly, the camera and detector were fitted. The thin metal plate was replaced and clipped into place using a quick poke from the screwdriver.
I'M IN UR BASE REFITTED UR DOODS
19. The PCB was carefully fitted taking care not to trap any of the ribbon connectors underneath or to scrape the board on the chassis.
20. I manoeuvred the switches into place, and thankfully they still had the majority of the sticky tape left on them. I took care to position them as close as possible with the slots. I didn't want any problems with the buttons not working!! I pressed them in from the side to allow the adhesive to do its job.
21. The two PCB screws were then replaced.
22. This was probably the most difficult part of the job. Smooth the antenna cable down in the groove with your plastic tool and secure in under the PCB, bringing it up through the small notch in the side of the PCB. Apologies for the lack of focus in the photo.
The difficult part is reattaching the antenna connector. I made several attempts at this, checking and rechecking the shape of the connector and failing to make it fit. This is a FRAGILE connector! Don't force it. When it mated, it needed relatively little effort. It was all an alignment job.
23. I finally reclipped all of the ribbon cables back together. Alignment was again of paramount important as the photos show. The force required to reseat these was no greater than the force it takes to press the volume or power button on the S2. Treat these with respect.
24. Reassembly of the case is made more difficult due to the captive buttons. Rather than trying to balance them whilst whanging the case back together, I progressively closed the case and slipped the buttons into the widened slots before closing the case around them. Far easier!
First, I clipped together the bottom corner of the "volume" side.
I then worked my way up to just below the opening for the volume button and slipped in the button insert.
The top "volume" corner was then closed.
Back at the bottom, I closed the "power" corner.
....then worked up to just below the button....
....slipped in the button....
....and cracked the entire case closed! Woo me.
25. I refitted the battery, SIM and SD card and powered up. 1% battery remaining.
....is this screenshot an advert?
Whoa mad skills. I would never be able nor have the time to do what you did.
Mic covering?
Thanks for your tutorail nice clear shots. Could you post a close up shot of the mic on board (white cover) and if poss with out the white covering and a shot of the covering please.
Reason I ask is some reports that removing this covering improves the mic audio on the SGS2. Thanks once again.
Nice tutorial, thanks. How much did the screen replacement cost?
You replaced whole housing with screen alredy attached, so this is not screen replacment. Rename thread.
£60 from ebay. Genuine SAMOLED+. I'll post a seller link when I get home. I'll have a look at the mic also.
ZhuraYuk said:
You replaced whole housing with screen alredy attached, so this is not screen replacment. Rename thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow. There's no pleasing some people.
This is where I bought my replacement:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180720196554#ht_500wt_1156
I've decided that I don't really want to go poking around inside my phone again at the moment. It isn't a difficult venture, however it is outside the bounds of the screen-replacement thing and I don't really want to go removing mine since I don't even know if it'll go back on, etc. The third picture in step 3 is pretty good, as is step 10.
The instructions on how to get to yours are up there also however! ;-D
Wow I think I won't even bother to try to replace my screen myself if it meets a mishap. Don't have skills to carry it out
I think you found yourself a new vocation though ^^ To repair screens haha.. Could make some money that way~
It's certainly not a difficult job. This took me about 20mins including photography. I could replace a screen or whatever you want to call it in about 4-5. That antenna is the worst bit! I wrote this so anyone carrying out this work knows that it is not labour-intensive.
As I said before you my friend have balls, but if it came to it again having done it would you not just take it to a service centre ?? Im still awaiting mine after a complete screen shatter(through no fault of my own they dont fly) I have a feeling though it make come back repaired, on a scale of 1-10 how difficult would you say this is to swap the phone to a new housing, I would be swapping everything over, unless i go to my service centre round the corner
Edit Scratch that just rang me there posting me a new phone on Tuesday
On a scale of 1-37 (how arbitrary) I would rate it about 12 on the basis that ham-fister work with the screwdriver can render the phone deader than a dead thing if those SMDs get chipped. If you discount that hazard, I would call it a 5.
Actually, if your scale of 1-37 had "desoldering, replacing and resoldering an SMD Intel ATOM chip" at "37" and writing your name as "1" then the scale makes more sense. If you've ever worked with micro miniature pitch ribbon cable connectors before, then perhaps less than 12. It truly is an easy-to-fix device which puts Apple's stupid "pentalobular" screw crap and general "stay-outishness" to shame. There are no weird connectors, permanently locked plastic security tags, thread lock gunk, glued up pieces or anything. I can understand why it would become a magnitude more difficult if you had to remove the glass from the bezel or whatever, but this is really a noddy job. Simpler than replacing the heatsink on your PC processor (sorry Apple, you don't count), changing the wheel on a car or cooking a reasonable French velouté soup.
As for a service centre, no. Definitely no. Sonera charge €50 just to look at it first, then the repair cost on top. Not sure of other avenues, but self repair is far better.
my display its ok and i am taking care of it..but this tutorial couldnt make me stay calm...amazing job you have done here mate. pics are superb and even link provided... you are worth my 5 thanks today... i hope we will have more people like you around here and then i will become a part of service centre - just watching stuff like this - great ...))
thanks again!!!!!!!
Related
Well, after as much as I loved my Samsung Captivate that I had previously wrapped in 3M Di-Noc Carbon Fiber vinyl, I decided to wrap the front and sides of my Atrix, as well as modify the back of it a bit. Here's the work done:
Wrap the entire front panel using one solid piece of vinyl, pre-cut prior to installation using templates - including the cut outs!
Cut out out the front camera hole, the speaker, the proximity sensor, ambient light sensor, and the status indicator light - then trimmed down the bottom with the microphone port - all prior to installation so as not to scratch the screen!
Wrapped over the excess on the sides to enable a better grip of the phone since the 3M Di-Noc material is TEXTURED just like real carbon fiber, then cut a relief cut on the edge of the screen so the vinyl could wrap successfully around the edge, went around it a bunch with the heat gun to seal it all up
Cut out the volume buttons but left the panel over them - we'll see how long it lasts in my pocket, but I heated it pretty well to ensure it wouldn't lift....
Wet sanded the back cover to remove the AT&T logo, the "HD VIDEO" text by the camera, and the word "blur" next to the Motorola logo for the ultimate in clean....
And now for the pics......
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You can see higher resolution pics by going to my album on Picasa:
https://picasaweb.google.com/garciam25/MotorolaAtrix4G3MDiNocCarbonFiber#
Now remember.... I am not taking any commissions on doing this to your phone, sorry.... the other vinyls available on eBay will just have to do because this stuff is too expensive and this was too time consuming to do for any customer, plus, I am NOT soliciting my services on here to do it, so don't ask! I do this professionally and install the material, I do NOT sell it for you to buy. Google it if you want this for yourself, but expect to spend well over the 2 hours this took me to do if you don't have any experience. Don't forget your heat gun and X-Acto knife with lots of fresh blades!
Again, all the buttons function exactly as they did from the factory. I have NO issues with this, so don't try and bash this concept because you think the buttons don't work - if they didn't work, I wouldn't leave this on! FUNCTION over FORM
What do you think? Better looking that my Captivate? Yeah, I think so too.... I am a carbon fiber junkie - if this isn't your thing, that's okay! I appreciate you being able to appreciate my hard work on the day after this phone was officially released!
That looks sick bro. I'm assuming it's 3m Di-noc film. Can you see the touch buttons when they are lit up through the vinyl?
Veeeery nice! Wish I had the patience.
loztboy said:
That looks sick bro. I'm assuming it's 3m Di-noc film. Can you see the touch buttons when they are lit up through the vinyl?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It sure is 3M - first line of the original post - and no, you cannot see the softkeys. I liked my Captivate that way, especially since I used NoLED and it required you to hit the Home key in order to bring up the screen if you had received a text, email, missed call, etc, as the power button didn't work any longer. With this phone, I guess my security is a little tougher with a fingerprint scanner!
Thanks for the compliments! First day "road testing" it with my younger cousin messing with it and she went out to buy one with me after 5 minutes of messing with it, so I guess it didn't hinder much of the stock capabilities, haha
Really like the clean look on the back after you wetsanded the logo off. I'm definitely going to attempt this myself, I hope it turns out just as nice!
looks good.
any advice for trying to do the back cover? I can't get it to wrap nicely on the corners. It just seems too thick to properly pull cleanly over the rounded bits.
LaZ8787 said:
Really like the clean look on the back after you wetsanded the logo off. I'm definitely going to attempt this myself, I hope it turns out just as nice!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used 2000 grit and a decent amount of water from the faucet. Just take your time and remember - NEVER press too hard when wetsanding. The whole point of using such fine paper is to let the grit do the work when it's good and ready, not pressing too hard that it burns up the material you are sanding! Good luck!
cegna09 said:
looks good.
any advice for trying to do the back cover? I can't get it to wrap nicely on the corners. It just seems too thick to properly pull cleanly over the rounded bits.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heat gun. I could have done the back too, but I liked how it came out so far and I love the cool home desktop "dock" I have, which is more of a stand with a cord to plug in manually. The material will bend around just about anything, as evidenced by the fact that I bent the material 90 degrees around the two sides of the phone, as I applied heat to it very carefully.
Post your pics when you get stuck or done with it, I'll see if I can help remotely, haha! Just cut more than you need so you have something to grip onto, heat smoothly and evenly, do NOT overheat the vinyl, and pull it straight around the corners and edges. It can EASILY stretch too far and ruin the natural looking 2 x 2 weave of the carbon, and then you mind as well just have bought the cheap stuff....
Very nice I love carbon fiber as well
can you at least post instructions on how to remove the blur and HD logo on the back please.
RacecarBMW said:
Very nice I love carbon fiber as well
can you at least post instructions on how to remove the blur and HD logo on the back please.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I kind of did in my last post, the post above yours, but I'll add a few things for those completely new to wet sanding altogether. As with anything, read through ALL the steps before you get so excited you'll have a phone rid of that blasted AT&T branding - inside AND out!
Things you'll need (not in bullet format because there's only three) - 2000 grit sandpaper that clearly states on it that it can be used for wet sanding, a sink with adjustable spray pressure levels, and patience!!! Wet sanding is probably the easiest way to sand, but you have to know what you're doing so as not to ruin the material you are protecting with the addition of water to the normal sanding process. If we tried this without sanding, it would require a good amount of buffing afterwards -that is, if we didn't burn right through the top, protective layer of the panel, the glossy part above the fake carbon fiber pattern!
Most important step of all - TAKE OFF THE BATTERY COVER BEFORE STARTING WORK!!!! I hope no one misses this step.....
Tear off a piece of sandpaper about 1" by 3" - the width of the paper should be around 3" so just cut or tear by folding a few times the 1" section. If you bought a square piece, grab some scissors and cut this size out.
Turn on the faucet to more than a drip and less than medium pressure. You want a steady stream but not too heavy pressure.
Hold the back panel so you can angle it such that the water runs on to it and off of it ONLY on the spots you will be sanding off! Now re-read what I just said - don't soak the whole thing in the water, just make the line of water hit the AT&T logo (or whatever else you're sanding off) and run off, not onto everything on the panel!
The water will rush off the panel because of how smooth it is. That's cool, with your other hand, rub the water onto the soon-to-be-removed logo, I use my thumb to utilize the most surface area.
Hold the paper in your hand such that the finger you are most comfortable with applying light pressure with is holding a 1" x 1" square at the end of the 3" section - this can be your thumb as it is in my case or your pointer and middle fingers together. Either way you feel comfortable NOT pressing down too hard, the better. Sometimes I've seen people not able to control the level of pressure their thumb emits, so I've told them to use their fingers instead and it has worked better for them.
Be aware of where the paper is in your hands in relation to the back panel. The reason I said to cut such a small piece is that anything bigger can "get away from you." You can easily let the paper grind up against other spots of the panel, ones that AREN'T being protected by the water! You might get the AT&T logo off, but your friends will all be saying "what happened here??" when they see a mistake.....
Wet the sandpaper thoroughly and then L I G H T L Y rub a section of the sandpaper onto the logo in a circle pattern while you alternate between 1 second under the stream of water and 3 seconds out of water. DO NOT go up and down, left and right, etc! Let the paper do the work for you and rub it every so gently.... The grit is actually strong enough to burn right through the logo and ruin the fake carbon fiber pattern below, so the lighter you press, the better chance you have of making the paper burn off just the logo and not the pattern below. You don't have to worry about JUST sanding off the logo and not touching the material - small circles about 1CM in diameter will work just fine and the water will protect the material from scratches - so don't be SO precise as to what you're sanding here!
Keep applying water! Keep up the pattern of 1 second under / 3 seconds out of water. You want it to get enough moisture between the sand paper and the material so that it doesn't scratch up the protection on the cover. Don't be afraid, as if you keep enough water between the two, you'll get it off in no time.
A Warning from Captain Obvious - items that have a lot of paint, like the Motorola logo, will take longer to remove than thin lettering like the "HD VIDEO" text! That means you have to ensure you're not burning off the protective layer below when you're sanding longer!
Once you're done with removing all that you want to remove, ensure that there aren't any traces of paint left on the outside cover by using water and / or a wet paper towel or napkin. You're not DRYING the piece just yet, you're making sure there aren't anything left on the panel that can be abrasive BEFORE drying it!
Dry the panel completely. You can do this with cool air like from a compressor (best option) or hair dryer on the cold setting, leaving outside NOT in the sun but in an area that wind blows, leaving it out to dry indoors for an hour, or a terry cloth or paper towel (both are last resort options because they can scratch up your nice work even if you don't think there's any chance they can). The point is.... give it some time to ENSURE it is dry before reinstalling it!!!
Inspect the panel. If you see some areas that look burned up or scratched, grab a clean, wet paper towel or napkin and gently rub over it. Then dry again, and then start using your fingers to rub over it and smooth it all out. You'll be surprised to see that some "blemishes" are just the oil from your skin or residue from the cleaning process!
Slap that sucker back together and post your pics!
Any questions, of course, post them here!
thanks so much! i was going to ask you for some advice. but no need now. thank you for being so thorough.
another method to remove the logo is to use a penny. took me about a minute and didnt scratch the surface.
where do you get the 3m tape? have you thought about putting it on the back cover to give it more grip?
Gonna have to try this! Thanks for the detailed instructions also! That'll prove to be very resourceful when i do this for my Atrix!
neotekz said:
another method to remove the logo is to use a penny. took me about a minute and didnt scratch the surface.
where do you get the 3m tape? have you thought about putting it on the back cover to give it more grip?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The best place to get it from (cheap plug for the awesome staff over there) is Carbon Fiber Gear's sister website, CarbonFiberFilm.com - best prices hands down!
Someone asked earlier HOW to do the back, and I guess I didn't get into WHY I didn't do the back on mine. I kinda like the tacky fake carbon on the back of the phone! Plus, with wet sanding, it gives it a TINY bit more grip, but then again, think about where you grip the phone anyways - the sides. These sides are wrapped and have tons more grip, so I haven't dropped it since I pulled it out of the box.... a couple times.... haha!
TfzSCVang said:
Gonna have to try this! Thanks for the detailed instructions also! That'll prove to be very resourceful when i do this for my Atrix!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome, good luck and post pics when you're done!
LaZ8787 said:
Really like the clean look on the back after you wetsanded the logo off. I'm definitely going to attempt this myself, I hope it turns out just as nice!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just scratch it off with a penny, took 5 seconds.
Tennis11 said:
Just scratch it off with a penny, took 5 seconds.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
another recommend on the penny method, literally took me less than 1 minute to remove "hd video, at&t, and blur", left the moto logo on there.
I couldn't get the lock and power logos off the top of the cover. I think they're different paint.
i just got the tape and cant seem to figure out how to make the outline for the sides.
i did the battery cover by putting the tape on first and then cut the holes after but i cant do that with the sides and dont want to scratch the phone.
neotekz said:
i just got the tape and cant seem to figure out how to make the outline for the sides.
i did the battery cover by putting the tape on first and then cut the holes after but i cant do that with the sides and dont want to scratch the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just PM'd you about the same question you asked here - there isn't an outline or template you need to make first, you cut the vinyl once it is heated ON the phone, not beforehand, using an X-Acto
i just finished. i found an easy way of making an outline for the sides. i put teh tape on and then take it off which leaves a good impression of all the holes and made it easy to cut.
here's teh finished product, i did the sides and battery cover as well as my candyshell case. thanks for the great idea GarciaM25
Looking GOOD! I love that you took my idea and went one step further with the outer case! Awesome job, seriously!!!
Has your Samsung Galaxy Note 8.0 dropped to the ground and now you need to replace the LCD or Touch Screen Digitizer? This tear down tutorial will assist you when needing to replace the following parts in your Galaxy Note 8.0 N5110 such as:
Samsung Galaxy Note 8.0 Touch Screen Digitizer
Samsung Galaxy Note 8.0 LCD Screen
Other internal components
Recommended Repair Tools:
Safe Open Pry Tool
Small Phillips Screwdriver (#00)
Adhesive Strips (required for screen replacements)
Heat Gun / Hair Dryer (required to warm and loosen adhesive)
Galaxy Note 8.0 N5110 Take Apart Guide:
Before you begin you will need to fully power off your device and remove the stylus pen.
Taking your safe open pry tool gently pry in between the seam of the back cover and the housing applying even pressure along all sides of the cover to release the clips holding it in place.
After the back cover has been removed you can now take your Small Phillips Screwdriver and remove the (8) screws circled in the figure below.
This will allow you to gently pry up the battery and release its connection shown below to fully remove it from your device.
See figure below for battery connector and screw locations.
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Next we can begin working at the top of the device.
You will need to take your Small Phillips Screwdriver and remove the (3) screws circled in the figure below.
Next taking your plastic pry tool you will need to gently release (5) these connections.
See figure below for connection and screw locations.
Next we can start working on the lower half of the device.
Taking your Small Phillips Screwdriver you will need to remove (7) more screws circled in the figure below.
With these screws removed you can now take your plastic pry tool and gently release the (6) connections below.
Note: The connection highlighted in yellow has a metal plate covering the connector. You will need to pry up this metal plate to expose the connection.
Next you can take your plastic pry tool and gently lift up and remove the (2) loud speakers at the bottom of the device.
See figure below for connection and screw locations.
Now that these screws and connections are released you can now begin removing the motherboard and other internal components.
Taking your plastic pry tool gently pry up towards the bottom of the motherboard to allow you to lift it out of the housing. (Use extreme care when handling the motherboard)
Next you can take your pry tool you can gently pry up and remove the headphone jack and front camera.
Now you will want to remove the microphone and button flex cable assembly. Gently pry up the ribbon starting from the top and slowly peel your way down towards the bottom. This flex ribbon is held on by some adhesive so you will want to use extreme caution not to rip or tear this cable.
See figure below for reference.
Now you will want to remove the vibration motor and memory card reader assembly.
These two components are connected with a very small flex ribbon cable. You will want to use extreme caution not to rip or tear this cable.
Taking your plastic pry tool and first pry up the memory card slot.
Next you will have to pry up the vibration motor from the inner housing (it is held down with adhesive.)
You may find when attempting to remove the vibration motor that using a small flat head screwdriver or other type of metal pry tool will help release it from the adhesive holding it in place. (Again use extreme care when attempting this.)
Next you will need to remove one last flex cable by taking your plastic pry tool and lifting up the tab on the jaw connector allowing you to remove it from the device completely.
See figure below for reference.
Next you are able to flip over your device and begin heating up the screen assembly.
You will want to take your heat source on a medium setting roughly 3-4 inches away from the screen.
Be sure to evenly apply heat to all outer edges of the screen to loosen up the adhesive holding the screen in place.
Notice: This guide is for informational and learning purposes only. Perform these procedures and repair at your own risk.
Is there a way to replace just the digitizer without completely disassembling the device? And ... do you know where I can get one for a while N5110?
car vs driver said:
Is there a way to replace just the digitizer without completely disassembling the device? And ... do you know where I can get one for a while N5110?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You would definitely have to disassemble the device to get to the flex cable to disconnect it.
This is great!
So it shouldn't be too difficult to replace the battery in a year or two.
Anyone know where replacement batteries can be found?
I must say, the non-removable battery is my biggest gripe with this tablet.
Where can you get a screen?
So now that we know HOW to replace a broken screen, does anyone know WHERE to buy a new screen and digitizer?
Samsung wants $298 to send it in for repair.
The Juggler said:
So now that we know HOW to replace a broken screen, does anyone know WHERE to buy a new screen and digitizer?
Samsung wants $298 to send it in for repair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh.. yeah. The same guy that posted this thread sells them.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using xda premium
car vs driver said:
Uh.. yeah. The same guy that posted this thread sells them.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent. Thanks. Do you happen to know if the GT-N5110 screen the same as the SGH-I467?
car vs driver said:
Uh.. yeah. The same guy that posted this thread sells them.
Sent from my GT-N5110 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for helping us out.
repairsuniverse said:
Thanks for helping us out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, your tutorial and also your video on youtube doesn't show how to disasembly the lcd screen from the digitizer.
When I tried to disassemble it came with the LCD, but non full LCD because the bottom of LCD is glued onto the LCD plate holder.
It's built like the samsung Galaxy S2.
For me it's quite impossible to disassemble without breaking the LCD.
Am I wrong?
Did somebody manage to change only the digitizer?
Lilian63 said:
Hi, your tutorial and also your video on youtube doesn't show how to disasembly the lcd screen from the digitizer.
When I tried to disassemble it came with the LCD, but non full LCD because the bottom of LCD is glued onto the LCD plate holder.
It's built like the samsung Galaxy S2.
For me it's quite impossible to disassemble without breaking the LCD.
Am I wrong?
Did somebody manage to change only the digitizer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was wrong, the LCD is not much glued to the bezel but it's firmly glued with epoxy glue to the digitizer.
It's definitly quite impossible to change only the digitizer.
Once again with samsung, good stuff but be very careful cause if you drop it, it's dead.
The complete LCD assembly is about 230$.
Screen replacement means full LCD screen replacement
As you can see below, digitizer is fully glued to LCD screen, plus epoxy glue pods in the corners.
Lilian63 said:
Once again with samsung, good stuff but be very careful cause if you drop it, it's dead.
The complete LCD assembly is about 230$.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I just got a call from samsung service that I need LCD as well as Mother Board replaced and then some small Parts apparently for some liquid clogged damage that I am not at all aware of, All i know is 1/3rd of my screen went dark.
It'll cost me arm and a leg as warranty does not cover that. imo Dropping it is not the only thing one should worry about when there are other factors at play, family, pets, rain luck and who knows what..
A Question
Do you happen to know if the GT-N5110 screen the same as the SGH-I467?
As far as I know they are different.
Hacked it? Walk thru?
Have anyone successfully change parts or swap parts from i467 to N5100/N5120 to access and use phone calls? Or maybe teach me how to change my imei number to trick carrier into thinking this is a phone cuz I hate to have it stuck with only Tablet data only!!
repairsuniverse said:
As far as I know they are different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Question
repairsuniverse said:
As far as I know they are different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a Samsung N5120 with a shattered LCD+Digitizer, can RepairUniverse help? in repairing it. The tablet turns on, charges, hear Samsung booting sound etc - everything is working but the screen is badly busted
fadejare said:
I have a Samsung N5120 with a shattered LCD+Digitizer, can RepairUniverse help? in repairing it. The tablet turns on, charges, hear Samsung booting sound etc - everything is working but the screen is badly busted
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The LCD and digitizer are two seperate parts - are they both broken? Either way, the replacement procedure is basically the same. Just order the parts and follow the instructions on the youtube video and/or this thread to repair it.
Seems intimidating, but it's pretty easy and shouldn't take you more than 30-45 minutes if you are well prepared.
Samsung Galaxy Note 8.0 Screen Replacement
May be I my request is not clear, I want information (Real Ones) on where to get the complete assembly so I can get it repaired or for a repair shop like yours to tell me what it will cost to repair it. Sorry for the delay in replying I just lost hope after so many weeks of nothing.
Does anyone know where to buy the full LCD+digitizer and front glass? Recently broke the LCD on my Note 8 and from what I read, replacing the whole lot would be easier than trying to separate the digitizer and glass from the LCD.
Acerlyte said:
Does anyone know where to buy the full LCD+digitizer and front glass? Recently broke the LCD on my Note 8 and from what I read, replacing the whole lot would be easier than trying to separate the digitizer and glass from the LCD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is incorrect. You have to remove the digitizer to get to the LCD, then the LCD requires additional steps to remove once you have the digitizer off.
The hardest (if you can call it that) part is carefully heating up the outer edges of the device to loosen up the glue that holds the digitizer in place.
The helpful techs at Repairs Universe have put together this screen repair guide for the HTC Windows Phone 8S. This take apart guide will help walk you through all of the necessary steps to safely disassemble your Windows Phone 8S to perform repairs such as a replacing a cracked or broken screen or even internal components that may have stopped working.
This repair guide will help you install the following Windows Phone 8S parts:
Windows Phone 8S Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Windows Phone 8S LCD Screen Replacement
Windows Phone 8S LCD + Touch Screen Assembly
Recommended Repair Tools:
Small Phillips Screwdriver (#00)
T5 Torx Screwdriver
Adhesive Strips
Safe Open Pry Tool
Spudger Opening Tool
Heat Gun or Blow dryer
How to fix a Windows Phone 8S (Step-by-Step Tutorial) :
Before you begin make sure you fully power off your device.
Next take your pry tool or fingernail and remove the bottom back cover. From here you will need to remove your sim card and/or micro SD card.
With this cover removed you can take your Torx T5 screwdriver and remove the two (2) screws circled in the figure shown below.
Now taking your safe open pry tool start prying off the back housing by releasing the clips holding it in place. (Be careful not to damage or break these clips.)
See figure below for reference:
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With the back housing removed you can now remove the six (6) Small Phillips (#00) screws circled in the figure below.
Please note that the screws circled in BLUE are a different size from the screws circled in RED.
There will also be a small black protective cover that can be removed with the screws circled in BLUE.
See figure below for screw locations:
Now with the screws removed you want to lift out the battery and fold it over to the side where the flex cable is still connected.
You can now remove the black housing covering its connection.
Now taking your pry tool gently release the battery connection and remove it from the device.
See figure below for reference:
Now taking your pry tool you will need to gently peel up the three components from the housing highlighted in GREEN in the figure below. These are the volume buttons, vibrator motor and power button.
Be cautious not to rip or tear their connections. You will only need to release them from the housing in order to remove the motherboard. (The volume and power buttons are held down with a little adhesive, the vibrator motor has it's own nest in the housing.)
You will also need to remove the protective tape covering the connections highlighted in BLUE in the figure below. Then use your pry tool to safely release their jaw-bone connections.
With these components now freed from the housing you can now safely pry up and lift out the motherboard. (Use caution when handling the motherboard.)
Next you will want to remove the protective tape covering the mid-frame and the back of the LCD screen from the slots in the housing. (Highlighted in RED in the figure below)
You now will want to gently peel up the ribbon cable(s) pointed out with red arrows in the figure below. These arrows point in the direction to which you will want to peel these cables from the housing. (Use caution not to rip or tear these flex ribbon cables.)
You will also need to take your spudger and gently lift up the copper colored film from the back of the LCD screen to be able to remove it from the housing without any issues.
See figure below for reference:
To proceed you will need to take your heat source and apply heat to the front and back of the mid-frame and screen assembly.
A medium heat setting hovering roughly 3-4 inches away from the device is ideal. Evenly heat these areas for roughly 30-45 second intervals. (Be cautious not to hover over any flex cables you may not want to damage.)
The adhesive holding the back of the LCD to the mid-frame is quite strong. You will need to apply enough heat to the back of the frame to loosen this adhesive enough to remove the screen assembly.
See figure below for reference:
With the screen and mid-frame properly heated you can begin prying the LCD + digitizer assembly starting from the back of the mid-frame.
We found that using a spudger opening tool is ideal to get between the LCD and this mid-frame. Insert the chisel end of your spudger through these slots in the frame as demonstrated in the figure below.
While attempting to remove the screen assembly from the mid-frame insert your spudger in a slot in the housing and use a second pry tool to work around the edges of the screen. The spudger will give you enough space for extra prying leverage and keep the LCD from re-adhering to the adhesive on the frame.
Once enough of the adhesive is releasing the screen assembly you should be able to remove the screen assembly completely from the mid-frame.
Be cautious of the flex cables when sliding them through the slots in the housing.
See figure below for reference:
Notice: Repairs Universe's repair guides are for informational and learning purposes only. Anyone attempting to repair their device should do so at your own risk.
Speaker
You guys rock! Helping me do a bunch of repairs for my customers but I wanted to know if the ear speaker from the WP8X will fit the WP8S....Glad to be the first to post also!
One question. Do I need to follow this guide to replace the digitizer and do I need to remove the screen if I want to replace it ? And also, do you void warranty if you open just the backside?
Here is the link(that you know what i mean): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Repair-pa...K_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item2ec9d7a01d
Thanks!
Is there a way to only replace the digitizer?
dna² said:
Is there a way to only replace the digitizer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can try but the LCD is bonded to the touch screen in a way that makes it very difficult. I'd suggest using a full screen assembly.
repairsuniverse said:
You can try but the LCD is bonded to the touch screen in a way that makes it very difficult. I'd suggest using a full screen assembly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a digitizer and will try to carefully replace the original one that is totally shattered right now. At the moment i use the screen with tape on it, becuase bits of the screen are falling off. I will try to report back after i failed or succeeded, but that will take some time(just ordered the digitizer). Maybe i will post some before/after pics. :fingers-crossed:
dna² said:
I bought a digitizer and will try to carefully replace the original one that is totally shattered right now. At the moment i use the screen with tape on it, becuase bits of the screen are falling off. I will try to report back after i failed or succeeded, but that will take some time(just ordered the digitizer). Maybe i will post some before/after pics. :fingers-crossed:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, please do!
Hey,
is the internal storage also a micro-SD? Do you know if it's possible to replace the storage with a bigger sd-card?
dexter morgan said:
Hey,
is the internal storage also a micro-SD? Do you know if it's possible to replace the storage with a bigger sd-card?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has an easy to reach mirco sd slot right next to the simcard slot.
dna² said:
It has an easy to reach mirco sd slot right next to the simcard slot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm, i also guess that it has an easy to reach touchscreen display on the front of the phone...
I just wanted to ask u guys (specially the guys/or girls/ who disassembled the phone) if there's any possibility to change the internal storage...for example it was possible with my old HTC HD7...but found out that the internal storage is fixed with the board
dexter morgan said:
hmm, i also guess that it has an easy to reach touchscreen display on the front of the phone...
I just wanted to ask u guys (specially the guys/or girls/ who disassembled the phone) if there's any possibility to change the internal storage...for example it was possible with my old HTC HD7...but found out that the internal storage is fixed with the board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have to wait for the digitizer before i open it up, but my guess is it's fixed to the board somewhere or is it really that common to have 2 SD slots?
Edit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHGZnMUk6KA i couldn't see any removable SD card, but maybe it's behind of one of those covers on the mainboard?
would be great if you could post some photos if you see the slot... must soldered into the board but maybe with some skilful hands it's possible to change...
What i am propaply going to try or at least something similar:
eheheh said:
well it isnt fake that the digitizer cant be separated from the lcd!!!!
this is bull**** myth!!! of course that technicians and in the stores tell you that isnt possible, more easy for them, and they make more money!!!!
this pics were taken from a spanish mobiles forum, his nickname samsungnia
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was posted in the Motorola Droid RAZR forum here on xda.
I like this technique, thanks for posting!
I did it! I got the Digitizer off. Too bad the new digitizer isn't here yet :/
I accidently cut the navigation flex cable damn.
DNA89 said:
I did it! I got the Digitizer off. Too bad the new digitizer isn't here yet :/
I accidently cut the navigation flex cable damn.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, congrats! Looks like that wasn't too easy, but that's awesome.
Yeah it took me a while, now i need to remove the rest of the glue and wait for the digitizer and the flex cable replacement.
dexter morgan said:
would be great if you could post some photos if you see the slot... must soldered into the board but maybe with some skilful hands it's possible to change...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There realy is no slot for a internal sd card. All important motherboard components where hidden behind a metal cover.
Progress: I removed all the adhesive left on the lcd with a adhesive remover. It works great, but now i see that i should have used that motorola digitizer removal technique. There are a few scratches on the lcd that hopefully aren't too visible after putting a ditizer on it.
@repairsuniverse would you guys put new adhesive between lcd and digitizer? I saw a video on youtube were a few guys used some sort of UV adhesive. Not exactly for the htc 8s but for other phones. Can i skip that part? Btw all the UV light i have is from the sun
DNA89 said:
There realy is no slot for a internal sd card. All important motherboard components where hidden behind a metal cover.
Progress: I removed all the adhesive left on the lcd with a adhesive remover. It works great, but now i see that i should have used that motorola digitizer removal technique. There are a few scratches on the lcd that hopefully aren't too visible after putting a ditizer on it.
@repairsuniverse would you guys put new adhesive between lcd and digitizer? I saw a video on youtube were a few guys used some sort of UV adhesive. Not exactly for the htc 8s but for other phones. Can i skip that part? Btw all the UV light i have is from the sun
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were on the right track, you will need UV adhesive for that to be successful.
Hi, my son has smashed the screen of his HTC 8s and I was wondering how easy it was to replace the screen or if it is better for me to take it to a shop to be repaired.
Many thanks
Well, as i need to "repair" my sm-p600 note 10.1 2014 edition, and there isn´t any tear dow manual or tutorial, so i start by my self, i have a little experience disassembling gadgets and assembling again (lucky me, when i was a kid i cant put together many devices haha) well the main duty is know if the screen comes glued to the lcd, hoping they comes just atached by 3m tape or something "easy" to remove, and replace just the glass
By now you can buy the digitizer glass cover alone(i haven´t bought it, since i dont know if i need the whole front panel)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Touch-Scree...ablet_eReader_Accessories&hash=item19e72eed16
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Touch-Scree...105?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4618b717e1
or alibaba ($40 usd+20 ems shipping service)
well, hope this help somebody. ill be updating the thread as any news come out (i need to add text, ill do it tomorrow)
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Haha this is exactly what I would've done in this kind of situation - just tear the damn thing apart and repair whatever it is that's broken. Well, except that I usually have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to repairing computer-related stuff. It always seems to work out in the end though.
Anyway, good luck with your repair project. Always nice to have some reference in case of a broken screen.
Sent from my SM-P600 using XDA Premium HD app
Very Nice. Im trying to find a broken one to buy somewhere
Sent from my SM-P600 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Nice the glass on mine is busted, previous owner dropped it. I would of figured ifixit would of had something on this tab by now, but I see it's close to the 10.1 2012 model. This has been a big help!
Anyone know yet of the screen comes glued to the LCD?
Pedro2NR said:
Anyone know yet of the screen comes glued to the LCD?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont think the screen is glued to the lcd because when i put pressure on the glass it does push in u can see it move. the glass seems really weak.
Nice. Is it still the same after you put it back together. Once my stylus becomes lose I'm probably going to open her up to fix it.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk 4
Pedro2NR said:
Anyone know yet of the screen comes glued to the LCD?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Soon
zeraworld said:
i dont think the screen is glued to the lcd because when i put pressure on the glass it does push in u can see it move. the glass seems really weak.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well the flex conectors are arrayed too far one from the other, so if it comes glued they dont use logic, but who knows, this sunday ill buy some auto agdhesive plastic to retain the glass in "one" part, then heat it and remove it. if you can wait, ill confirm glued or not.
aznmode said:
Nice. Is it still the same after you put it back together. Once my stylus becomes lose I'm probably going to open her up to fix it.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I havent put it togueter, i havent ask for the part, i found a better seller, he ships trought ems shipping service, $70 usd shipping included 4-5 days
Good to know. I am knew to this. My wife's tablet cracked. How different is this with the phones? I understand the phones use LOCA between the glass and digitizer. Is it the same case with this tablet?
If its built like their phones then the digitizer is glued to the glass. Which is what you bought. If it helps any, I did take apart an Asus tablet and the digitizer is glued to the glass as well. But the LCD panel has a double sided foam around it which is how it was attached to the LCD/digitizer. If you don't heat the foam tape enough it's going to be a PITA it won't separate easily. But don't force it or you will crack the LCD panel. They are probably 2-3 mm thin panel. So heat it up enough to allow it to separate on its own while you put your prying tool in between. And work your way around with little force. If you have to use more force to separate them, then it's not hot enough. Dont rush like I did and I ended up cracking the lcd panel.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk 4
There are glued and attached ... Glued are kind of fused and attached stay together using a 3m double sided tape... We are here to know what is the p600 using... I'll try to heat it and separate em this Sunday ... Even iPad is attached ... The glued one is common in high end devices... Not tablets hope the same for this one
Sent from my LG-P880 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
dandeli21 said:
Soon
Well the flex conectors are arrayed too far one from the other, so if it comes glued they dont use logic, but who knows, this sunday ill buy some auto agdhesive plastic to retain the glass in "one" part, then heat it and remove it. if you can wait, ill confirm glued or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did it go on Sunday?
Just curious, what kind of room, if any, is available under the back cover. It would be nice to make a wireless charging dock for this like my old touchpad had.
After picking up my sons Note 10.1 and noticing that it would apparently come on but had nothing on the screen I began googling. Not much info out there. Appears to be a common problem. His tablet seemed to be working fine but nothing displayed on the screen. Read several threads on here with most ending in sending the units back under warranty. Although I did purchase 3 year warranties on both units I bought...I'm just not one to do the right thing. I powered the unit down and began taking the back off like the poster did in this thread. http://forum.xda-developers.com/show....php?t=2617614. Once I got the back off I tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it. No dice. The poster then said he disconnected the two ribbons and reconnected them and that worked for him...still no worky for me. One of the ribbons is labeled "LCD". I followed it to the other end. It is covered by a silver "hold down" sticker. I unstuck the sticker and could then clearly see that the ribbon was clearly cocked very slightly in it's socket. If you don't know, these ribbon sockets come open by prying the black piece up and away from the ribbon. Be very careful doing this. I did this on this end of the LCD ribbon, straightened the ribbon and clipped the socket back closed. BAM. Black Screen Gone! Works like a charm.
If you are comfortable digging around in very small electronics give it a try. If not, send it in.
Hope this helps.
The other thing to be weary of is make sure you dont break the tabs on the back cover. In particular the area where the spen sits. Otherwise the spen will become loose. There's a plastic C looking piece inside that hold on to the spen. This is creates that click feel (not the vibrate) when you insert the spen all the way. There's a part of that piece that lines up with the groove near the end of the spen that it latches on to sort of speak. You can bend to make it hold the pen better but if the back is loose, that clip will not sit in place and the spen will be loose no matter what.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
Does anyone know of a tutorial with pics on how to remove the back?
Crazypinoy9 said:
Does anyone know of a tutorial with pics on how to remove the back?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't find a video. Get a very small flat blade screwdriver or one of the plastic tools that comes with a new cell phone battery. Start on either side of the charging port and slowly work your way around prying on it. It has clips and also a thin line of glue holding it on. Take your time and it will come open with ease.
reath1 said:
Didn't find a video. Get a very small flat blade screwdriver or one of the plastic tools that comes with a new cell phone battery. Start on either side of the charging port and slowly work your way around prying on it. It has clips and also a thin line of glue holding it on. Take your time and it will come open with ease.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Will give it a shot!
label
Thinking about making a purchase to replace my cracked screen, but I am noticing that these replacements don't have the 'Samsung' logo on them. Should I continue to wait longer until digitzer screens with the 'Samsung' logo come out, or would I be safe purchasing these?
And the answer comes out... It's glued in the hard way. Took me about two hours to detach the cracked screen. There is a lot of glue on the LCD that I have to remove now. Check is it is still working and ask for the replacement...
About the last message The brand logo is hidden for copyrights
Sent from my LG-P880 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
EDIT- there are two different types of tape that holds the battery in. There is no obvious way to tell which type your phone has (to my knowledge). One has foam double sided tape, the other is some kind of thin & very strong adhesive tape. If your phone is the latter, you'll need to be VERY careful when trying to take it out.
I would suggest applying a lot of heat to the front of the phone screen - this should transfer to the tape behind the screen, and make it much easier to remove. If you damage your battery it'll cost approximately $45 USD + shipping to replace it. I haven't tried this method yet, but that is the only way I can see.
Ok, here is my guide / how-to for replacing the display assembly on the Asus Zenfone 2 ZE551ML.
Let me know if you have any questions. I would say it was fairly straight forward - I have not done this before on any phone, and mine works well.
I've posted the full guide with pictures on Imgur here: http://imgur.com/a/KXTFV
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Compatible Replacement Part
The original screen has the following code stamped on the back of the display: "TL055VDXP34-00".
The first replacement display assembly (did not work) had the following code: "TLD55VVXP31-00".
The second replacement assembly (did work) had the following code: "TL055VDXP34-00".
On that basis, I would suggest that the first unit I received was an earlier model, and was the incorrect part. I assume that the replacement display assembly must be model TL055VDXP34-00.
Step 1
Remove back cover
Step 2
Remove screws in plastic panel
NOTE: Remember to remove the one next to the camera (this might be covered by a small sticker).
This cover should remove quite easily - if you can't lift it, count those screws! There should be 14. Again - check that one by the camera that is somewhat hidden.
NOTE These screws are actually the only screws which hold the phone together. Once these are out and the cover is up, the speaker unit will fall away from the phone.
Step 3
To remove the plastic panel pry it up at one end, and use a sharp blade to separate the double sided tape between the battery and the plastic panel.
NOTE: I removed the double sided tape completely when I put it back together. It doesn't seem to really be necessary.
Step 4
Remove the antenna cable, vibrate motor, and four other connections.
The three above the battery pop up away from the phone.
Step 5
To disconnect the flat cable at the bottom of the battery you need to first remove the yellow plastic sticker covering it. Next lift the white tab to release the cable, then gently pull the cable out towards the base of the phone.
Step 6
To remove the battery, gently pull up away from the phone. Once you have located the double sided tape holding it to the phone, you should use the sharp blade to separate it from the housing.
NOTE: Be gentle with the small metal tabs on the edge of the battery; these are quite flimsy and will bend if used to force the battery. I removed the double sided tape completely here too, and did not replace it.
Step 7
Once the battery is out you need to lift the copper sheet from the body of the phone, which is held in place with some mild adhesive. Use tweezers and lift from one corner gently, working your way slowly across the square piece.
Step 8
Lift the yellow plastic sticker, then disconnect the screen plug shown in the picture.
NOTE This is a connection for the display, and actually goes under the main unit in a right angle, then up and out a small slit at the top of the phone (shown in picture for step 16). This cable is part of the display assembly, and is being replaced entirely. If it is easier, you could actually cut this cable completely.
Step 9
There are four plastic retainers which fix the remaining unit to the body of the phone. Use a small amount of force on one side to pop this section out. Once this is freed, it should be simple to remove it completely.
Step 10
Once the internal pieces of the phone are removed, you'll need to detach the display cable (from step 8) from the body. This is held in place with some adhesive, and shouldn't be too hard to pry up.
NOTE: Your new display assembly will have some adhesive on the replacement cable - should be self explanatory when fixing this back on.
Step 11
To remove the display itself you'll need to apply heat. I had a heat gun - this makes it a lot easier ($20-$30 on eBay) but you could use a hair drier if you don't have a heat gun. For the sake of comparison - the heat gun took around 30 seconds to heat the display completely, which would take 3-5 minutes with a hair drier.
Once the adhesive behind the screen has been heated up, work your way around the edges of the screen with a sharp razor blade. The display will begin to separate from the housing.
Once mostly free, carefully lift the display cable through the hole in the top of the phone body. Again; you're replacing this cable completely, so don't worry too much about it.
Step 12
You will need to separate the speaker grill from the original display, clean the adhesive off, and attach it for the new screen. I found it easier to attach the grill to the actual phone body (rather than the display assembly).
Step 13
Because of the condition of the adhesive for the screen assembly, I decided to replace the adhesive completely. You could skip this step, but I figured it was worth cleaning it up.
To remove the existing adhesive I just used the sharp razor blade and worked my way around peeling it all off.
NOTE: This would be a good opportunity to 'test fit' the new screen (without adhesive) so you can see where the cables need to go. There is one which goes up behind the screen and through the middle of the phone, and another which goes through the top hole. The top one is a strange shape, and needs to go through sideways first.
Step 14
I used the 3M double sided adhesive tape to go around the edge of the new screen assembly.
NOTE: The replacement adhesive I used was 3M double sided adhesive tape (2mm) - the tape was around $10 from a mobile phone repair supplies store. The tape was too wide and not thick enough, so I doubled it over. It fit perfectly once I did that. Unless you can find thicker double sided tape which is closer to the original adhesive, I would recommend this approach.
Step 15
Once the adhesive is all laid out on the phone, put the screen assembly on. I started from the top and slide the top cable through the hole, then slowly worked my way down to the bottom.
NOTE: I'd suggest you don't press too hard on the adhesive until you are sure that both cables are through to the back, and that the screen is sitting well in the body.
Step 16
Looking at the phone from the back, remove the adhesive backing from the display cable and carefully position the cable between the four black markers.
Step 17
After the new screen is fixed in, start the re-assembly. This is effectively the same as disassembly, but in reverse. There were only a couple of parts that I'd make note of:
a) Keep an eye on the display cable that comes in through the top. Mine got caught on the double sided tape, and needed to be pulled through.
b) You will need to use a little bit of force to mount the processor unit between the four plastic clips. Be careful when doing this. (shown in step 9)
c) I completely removed the double sided tape from under the battery and under the plastic case. I figured that if I need to go back into the phone, I wouldn't want to deal with the tape again. I'm glad I did, because the first screen was a dud.
d) If you lose any of the yellow plastic cable stickers, you can borrow a piece from your old display assembly.
Additional pictures:
Are those pictures too big? Someone let me know, I'll resize them.
thanks for the how-to!
i just have one question... where did u buy the screen with that exact code? all i've found is the one that's not working with u
Added to index, thanks for your work!
MegyK said:
thanks for the how-to!
i just have one question... where did u buy the screen with that exact code? all i've found is the one that's not working with u
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the one I bought http://r.ebay.com/fCPlmR
I suppose all the different versions might be my problem. My original screen is manufactured by AUO and is labeled as H546DAN03.4 MP1.0. So far I've gotten three replacements. Two with the XP31 code and one with the XP34. First XP31 only the backlight worked. Second touch screen didn't work. XP34 is acting the same as second XP31. Three attempts later I'm in the same boat. Google search brought up what appears to be an older version of the screen only. Now I'm thinking of sending it to Asus, if they'll still touch it, or call it a loss and buy myself a new phone. It still doesn't explain why the touch screen worked on the first but not the other two though.
alexjez05 said:
I suppose all the different versions might be my problem. My original screen is manufactured by AUO and is labeled as H546DAN03.4 MP1.0. So far I've gotten three replacements. Two with the XP31 code and one with the XP34. First XP31 only the backlight worked. Second touch screen didn't work. XP34 is acting the same as second XP31. Three attempts later I'm in the same boat. Google search brought up what appears to be an older version of the screen only. Now I'm thinking of sending it to Asus, if they'll still touch it, or call it a loss and buy myself a new phone. It still doesn't explain why the touch screen worked on the first but not the other two though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The nature of electronics means that it's entirely possible you damaged something in the process. I guess that's part of the risk you take when you go about a DIY repair.
Might be worth double checking all of those connections to make sure that you got them all plugged in.
Also, double check that the phone is charged?
alexjez05 said:
I suppose all the different versions might be my problem. My original screen is manufactured by AUO and is labeled as H546DAN03.4 MP1.0. So far I've gotten three replacements. Two with the XP31 code and one with the XP34. First XP31 only the backlight worked. Second touch screen didn't work. XP34 is acting the same as second XP31. Three attempts later I'm in the same boat. Google search brought up what appears to be an older version of the screen only. Now I'm thinking of sending it to Asus, if they'll still touch it, or call it a loss and buy myself a new phone. It still doesn't explain why the touch screen worked on the first but not the other two though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
make sure you slide in the connector on the top left (i think CON2001)
Excellent write up.. Thanks
Good work and excellent write up.
Help needed please.
Having problems after replacing the touch screen digitizer. Home Key, Return Key and Recent Applications keys not working. I am attaching a picture of the Screen Touch Test. The lower portion of display is not working and Home Screen and Navigation buttons are unresponsive
loveerslane said:
Having problems after replacing the touch screen digitizer. Home Key, Return Key and Recent Applications keys not working. I am attaching a picture of the Screen Touch Test. The lower portion of display is not working and Home Screen and Navigation buttons are unresponsive
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Almost certain that's caused by a loose cable - had a similar issue with mine. Open it up, check the cables are seated properly.
I have an issue now after replacing the screen where it says "Camera failed to launch. Please reboot." Did you ever see this, or better yet know of a solution. The connectors to the camera are ok as are all other connectors.
Very thanks
i used some rubbing alcohol to loosen up the adhesive for the battery. I lifted up one side of the battery and put a few drops of rubbing alcohol onto the adhesive. it worked perfectly to weaken the adhesive and i was able to pull the battery up without damaging the battery.
that was probably the hardest part of the repair.
I have a ZE551ML, i got the XP31 screen, and at first the touch did not work.
I double checked the cable from the screen to the main board.
Turned out there was tape on it. Moved the tape, reassembled, and the screen worked.
Details:
wisdomous.ca/BLOG/Asus_Zenfone2_screen_replacement_ZE551ML.htm
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i have zenfone 2 one sim card slot not proper working
sunil9327 said:
i have zenfone 2 one sim card slot not proper working
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also have a similar problem after finally managing to get one screen working properly;
After changing two screens without being able to get touch to work I had to go back to my old, and seriously broken, screen - which still worked every time I remounted it
However, in a last move of desperation I checked the cable connections, cleaned them off just in case and especially wedging the tiny flat cable into its slot extra hard and deep... and at the second go, it just booted up as usual - with touch fully working (!!!)
Now almost all is well again, even though my old and new screen have completely different numbers...?
So maybe, what can sometimes be needed is to really shove the tiny flat cable from the screen (connects on the top left of the mainboard) into its slot and to boot and reboot more than twice to get touch active...?
On another note, for my personal sake, the SD-card slot seems to be malfunctioning, and if I have an SD mounted the phone reboots itself at some point and runs incredibly hot. So obviously I leave it out. However, as much as I wanted it to be due to the double sided flat cable (with SIM1/2 and SD slot) running across the battery between the mainboard and the speaker/usb-board, it seems that the actual connection on the mainboard has been damaged and probably needs to be replaced. But after extensive searching online I cannot find a single thing. I work in electronic manufacturing and would in theory easily be able to solder a new one in place.
Does anyone know what this is called?
PS. Maybe this last part should go into another thread, but the first paragraphs are on topic, I believe (and can maybe help someone...?)
Having some issues with it
I'm having problems with the touch screen. It started to be unresponsive some days after I replaced it, but it didn't notice it at the beginning because the problem wasn't serious. However, the following days it started to be always less responsive, and now the top part of the screen it doesn't response at all. Inexplicably, sometimes the touch screen works perfectly for some minutes, and then becomes totally unresponsive.
The software is up to date. Have you any idea of what's happening?
Question: screen adhesive to be purchased separately, or does it come with the screen? Thanks!