Develop Bugs

Stop battery from charging while PC USB connected

I've put this question on other post, but that post was old and was not specific to this subject.
The question itself is: how do I prevent the PDA battery from charge while connected to PC through the USB cable?
I've already tested and got to this conclusion:
- Cut/disconnect the +5V pin from the usb port/cable don't work, when that is done the PC/PDA don't recognize each other and nothing happens.
Note: some ones my say that the lithium battery don't have the memory effect problem, bla bla bla, but my experience tells me otherwise. I believe that start charging when the battery is not almost empty is not a problem but stop charging before it is full is not good to the battery.
Best Regards,
Cidi Rome

Charging the XDA Orbit
I have had this mobile since March 07 and when I get to work I plug it into the computer and when I get home I plug it into the computer and when I am in the car I plug it into the cigarette lighter. As of now I have not had any issue with the battery dying due to overcharging which is a pile of bs that was put around a few years back sort of like the idea that you have to drain the battery before charging it. If you actually look at your phone while it is plugged in it will state charging and will continue to charge until it is fully charge then will stop charging as there is no need.

In my opinion the problem is not overcharging or start charging before the battery is empty.
The real problem is to interrupt the charge before it is full.
I compare the case you describe to my chargeable screwdriver witch is always on the charger and time off it is not enough to discharge more than it will be charging next time, in other words, the time on the charger is always enough to charge the battery to 100% before the next usage, so a charge is never interrupted.
In my case I only connect the PDA to the computer when I need to install software, copy files or synchronize. The time I'm on the computer is never enough to fully charge the battery but is enough to start a charge that will be interrupted soon. The myth is that if a charge is stopped several times at (e.g.) 70%, after a while the battery will only charge to 70% even it says it is 100%.
Best Regards.

Understand your "logic" even if I don't agree with it but everyone entitled to their point of view.
I don't know how to solve your problem though as like you say, remove the 5v and the unit will no longer be seen by the PC and therefore will not sync.
If you are concerned about battery memory you could however have two batteries.
One which you only charge to full, another you use when you want to do the quick sync etc.
I know this approach requires you to swap the batteries but it's the only way I can think to resolve what you are after and it would also allow you to compare battery life between the two batteries to confirm your opinion on battery memory affect.

The idea about two batteries is not bad but it would be only doable if it is possible to remove the battery while the PDA is connected to the PC and stays on otherwise the power cycle is to long to wait for it to turn off and on to switch battery.

or...
ednap said:
Understand your "logic" even if I don't agree with it but everyone entitled to their point of view.
I don't know how to solve your problem though as like you say, remove the 5v and the unit will no longer be seen by the PC and therefore will not sync.
If you are concerned about battery memory you could however have two batteries.
One which you only charge to full, another you use when you want to do the quick sync etc.
I know this approach requires you to swap the batteries but it's the only way I can think to resolve what you are after and it would also allow you to compare battery life between the two batteries to confirm your opinion on battery memory affect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...or you have two batteries, one of which you keep in a cupboard and swap it out when you think you see a memory effect on your original one.

Happen to see this at madaco.
Disable USB charge:
HKLM\Drivers\BuiltIn\usbfndrv
and change the
EnableUsbCharging to '0'
Soft reset.
Docc.
Source: xda-dev
Worked for me. I had soft reset my device via programs/reset device.
and the key in registry is stored

Hi there.
What software do you use to edit the registry?
Are you sure it is not charging?
I've read somewhere that it only disables the charging light but keeps charging, it would be good if it works.
Best Regards.

CidiRome said:
Hi there.
What software do you use to edit the registry?
Are you sure it is not charging?
I've read somewhere that it only disables the charging light but keeps charging, it would be good if it works.
Best Regards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
one good one is PHM Registry

bobybravo said:
Happen to see this at madaco.
Disable USB charge:
HKLM\Drivers\BuiltIn\usbfndrv
and change the
EnableUsbCharging to '0'
Soft reset.
Docc.
Source: xda-dev
Worked for me. I had soft reset my device via programs/reset device.
and the key in registry is stored
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When i got that in the registry which one do I change?
I see:
BusIoctl
Dll
EndpointCount
Flags
IClass
IoBase
IoLen
MemBase
MemLen
Order
Prefix
Priority256
SupportedSpeeds
Sysintr
UsbIfDelayTime
UsbIfTestMode
i have HTC Touch Pro so I don't know if that makes a difference.

Stop usb charging
When someone asks about stopping charging through usb, So many people just say that modern batteries don't have menory problems and itis ok to charge it all the time. But, Here I want to present my personal otherwise experience . I was using my G3 for 15 months without problem, but for last couple of moths I am tethering it to my PC all day and my battery has gone. It used to last a couple of daysbut now doesn't last 6-8 hours.
So, If there is a way to stop charging via usb in android, Pl share it.

i had the same problem, so i sold it xD

fake battery for HTC devices?

I wish my HTC Sprint Mogul's hardware (i.e., the battery place) could be rewired so that I could plug in my PDA to an outside source and be able to turn on my phone without the battery. This way I could use the device as an ad-hoc using WMWifirouter or a navigation system for as long as I need to without damaging or overheating the battery.
Does anyone have any idea whether a fake battery that just has the same physical dimensions, resistance, output voltage, and amperage as the original battery can be made or obtained and used to turn on HTC devices (like my Sprint Mogul TyTnII PPC6800 wm6.1) using external power without having the original battery in? This inability to keep the device on external power without the battery in its place is common to all HTC devices. If a solution is found, it would allow us to utilize power consuming programs like WMWifirouter and use the device as a complete navigation device for long trips.
When I go on long trips and want to have the Sprint navigation system on the whole time, the battery either runs out or overheats from being charged by the car charger. Subsequently the device turns off. How annoying! Hope someone can help. Thank you.

This is actually a decent request and wouldn't mind a solution.
Laptops don't need the battery in to work via AC/DC. Would be great if HTC would wire these devices so as to behave without the dependency of the battery all the time.

i wouldn't agree more... htc only works with batery inserted, and i would like too take it off and work with just the adapter

Get an after market battery?

shahriar5252 said:
When I go on long trips and want to have the Sprint navigation system on the whole time, the battery either runs out or overheats from being charged by the car charger. Subsequently the device turns off. How annoying! Hope someone can help. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once the battery is fully charged the charging stops. The device is going to get hot from just being on and communication with sprint for the navigation regardless of the battery.

shahriar5252 said:
I wish my HTC Sprint Mogul's hardware (i.e., the battery place) could be rewired so that I could plug in my PDA to an outside source and be able to turn on my phone without the battery. This way I could use the device as an ad-hoc using WMWifirouter or a navigation system for as long as I need to without damaging or overheating the battery.
Does anyone have any idea whether a fake battery that just has the same physical dimensions, resistance, output voltage, and amperage as the original battery can be made or obtained and used to turn on HTC devices (like my Sprint Mogul TyTnII PPC6800 wm6.1) using external power without having the original battery in? This inability to keep the device on external power without the battery in its place is common to all HTC devices. If a solution is found, it would allow us to utilize power consuming programs like WMWifirouter and use the device as a complete navigation device for long trips.
When I go on long trips and want to have the Sprint navigation system on the whole time, the battery either runs out or overheats from being charged by the car charger. Subsequently the device turns off. How annoying! Hope someone can help. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
for once my troubleshooting of my old htc universal will help. I found when I kept my finger across the battery terminals I could run the htc universal indefinatly off just the mais adapter. this suggests that if you took an old battery and usde some VERY high resistance to the sense pins coming from the main positive battery terminal you could fool it into thinking there's a battery present. and in theory use only an external power supply. I wouldsuggest starting with an original battey or a compatable 3rd party battery that is no longer usable then gut it out and connect the mains adapter. from there use a high value variable resistor to simulate what I did as the resistance of skin would be very high. it will not give you a battery level and will most likely give the red light saying battery charging failure but at least you get to use no battery.if it works then your good to go. another theory but would be valid for temp sensor on battery is to hook a very weelfiltered dc source to the battery cell terminals of the tiny circuit board you'll find inside the battery. and give it a very clean and regulater soure of dc. then it'll always show a full battery but if the temp sensor on the circuit board gets hot due to wireless chipset use then your back to my first idea.good luck and hope it works out

Forgot to mention that I would be careful using this in your car with the power directly on the battery terminals. I doubt the circuit board regulates the battery power, since the battery should provide clean power. Most car chargers are crude at the voltage regulation. When you start the car you might see a spike or sag. Just something to think about.

~~Tito~~ said:
Get an after market battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Tito:
No, not an after-market battery. The idea is to be able to work with HTC devices using only external power without the battery being in the device. As of now, all HTC PDAs require the battery to be in the device to turn on even when you are using external power to power up the device. The wiring of all HTC PDAs allow an external power supply to function in only recharging the battery--not powering up the device. The wiring of HTC PDAs require that only the battery be able to power up the device. The problem is when you are trying to use the device for a long time for applications such as navigation system, the act of using the battery to keep the device on and recharging it at the same time will heat up the battery, and the device turns off. I am asking the community whether anyone has a suggestion about how to modify the device to enable an external power supply to turn on the device directly with out the battery being in the device. Please re-read my original power that started this thread for more info. Thank you.

cyberjak said:
for once my troubleshooting of my old htc universal will help. I found when I kept my finger across the battery terminals I could run the htc universal indefinatly off just the mais adapter. this suggests that if you took an old battery and usde some VERY high resistance to the sense pins coming from the main positive battery terminal you could fool it into thinking there's a battery present. and in theory use only an external power supply. I wouldsuggest starting with an original battey or a compatable 3rd party battery that is no longer usable then gut it out and connect the mains adapter. from there use a high value variable resistor to simulate what I did as the resistance of skin would be very high. it will not give you a battery level and will most likely give the red light saying battery charging failure but at least you get to use no battery.if it works then your good to go. another theory but would be valid for temp sensor on battery is to hook a very weelfiltered dc source to the battery cell terminals of the tiny circuit board you'll find inside the battery. and give it a very clean and regulater soure of dc. then it'll always show a full battery but if the temp sensor on the circuit board gets hot due to wireless chipset use then your back to my first idea.good luck and hope it works out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From my understanding batteries should have low internal resistance, so I don't see how hooking up a resistor will help here. Do you know whether HTC has a chip in its batteries so that the device could only recognize its batteries and thereby exclude after-market batteries? A recognition chip in the battery could explain why my device will not turn on even when I connect together all the battery prongs on my Spring Mogul (PPC6800) and the red no-battery light goes away. If there is a chip in the battery, is there a way to harvest its program and put it on a blank chip and connect it to the device battery holder's prongs to turn on the devise? Thanks for your suggestions.

rsw686 said:
Forgot to mention that I would be careful using this in your car with the power directly on the battery terminals. I doubt the circuit board regulates the battery power, since the battery should provide clean power. Most car chargers are crude at the voltage regulation. When you start the car you might see a spike or sag. Just something to think about.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The car charger that I have is a Motorola and has a fuse in it to break circuit in case of a power surge. I think we just need to find a way to power up the device without needing the battery. Any other suggestions? Thank you.

cyberjak said:
for once my troubleshooting of my old htc universal will help. I found when I kept my finger across the battery terminals I could run the htc universal indefinatly off just the mais adapter. this suggests that if you took an old battery and usde some VERY high resistance to the sense pins coming from the main positive battery terminal you could fool it into thinking there's a battery present. and in theory use only an external power supply. I wouldsuggest starting with an original battey or a compatable 3rd party battery that is no longer usable then gut it out and connect the mains adapter. from there use a high value variable resistor to simulate what I did as the resistance of skin would be very high. it will not give you a battery level and will most likely give the red light saying battery charging failure but at least you get to use no battery.if it works then your good to go. another theory but would be valid for temp sensor on battery is to hook a very weelfiltered dc source to the battery cell terminals of the tiny circuit board you'll find inside the battery. and give it a very clean and regulater soure of dc. then it'll always show a full battery but if the temp sensor on the circuit board gets hot due to wireless chipset use then your back to my first idea.good luck and hope it works out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These suggestion will not work because I think HTC batteries have a chip in them to stop excess recharging. Therefore the device needs to recognize the battery chip's permission to turn on itself. See my next post for how the recharging works on Sprint Mogul (HTC PPC6800).
I would appreciate any other suggestions.

~~Tito~~ said:
Get an after market battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I want to be able to use the HTC device using an external power supply without the battery in the device.

Possible solution using a new cooked up ROM:
My Sprint Mogul (HTC PPC6800) has an LED that turns orange when I plug in the device for recharging, and the battery normally gets warmed up as the battery is being recharged. The orange LED will turn green once the battery is fully charged, and then the battery cools. Once the LED is green and the device is still plugged in to an external power supply, the fully recharged battery remains cool even if it is being used for intensive applications. From this observation, I am guessing that HTC batteries or the device itself must have a chip in them that sense the amount of charge in the battery and shup down further recharging of the battery so as to prevent overcharging the battery.
If so, can someone find out how a new ROM can be cooked up to trick the device or the battery into thinking that the battery is fully charged and thereby prevent the battery from being charged when the owner wants to use the device on external power without recharging the battery?
Of course, this must be a reversible thing to do.

I did this last year, but haven't put much time into perfecting it
I got mine to work by soldering the -/+ ends of a usb cable to the +/- leads where the battery connects on my HTC Wizard, though I haven't perfected it yet, I post some pics when I can, I also had it running on 3 AAA batteries, using the same method but connecting it to a 3x AAA battery case from radioshack, I'm no technician, so I'm winging it a bit, but I think I may need to use a resister or something cuz the battery is 3.7v and usb is 5v so I don't know how safe it is but it works. Any constructive input/advice is appreciated

curiousandroid said:
I got mine to work by soldering the -/+ ends of a usb cable to the +/- leads where the battery connects on my HTC Wizard, though I haven't perfected it yet, I post some pics when I can, I also had it running on 3 AAA batteries, using the same method but connecting it to a 3x AAA battery case from radioshack, I'm no technician, so I'm winging it a bit, but I think I may need to use a resister or something cuz the battery is 3.7v and usb is 5v so I don't know how safe it is but it works. Any constructive input/advice is appreciated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know how you did the soldering of the connections because when I hooked them using wires, it did not work. A red LED would come on and the phone would not turn on. So go ahead and post your pictures to see what you did. Thanks.

Here's my working design
You will need torx wrenches to get the device open, Lowes sells a great mini torx screwdriver that holds several small attachments with different torx sizes in the handle for about $5 USD (and it's made of metal not plastic so it'll last!) I should also mention that i use rechargeable batteries in battery packs so if you try that method with the usb, you may want to use rechargeable NiMH or non-Rechargeable Lithium AAA's since they have a slightly higher voltage than regular batteries. I used a fast drying epoxy to better secure and protect the soldiered ends. I drilled holes through the battery cover and the plastic shell and added a small screw to secure the battery door, I drilled another hole in the battery door for the cord to come out through and tied a knot in it so that if the cord got yanked, the battery door would keep the cord from ripping off the board inside. It seems to run best @3.7v like it original lithium battery, but it will run at 5v but it gets hot if it's on too long.
CuriousAndroid
[email protected]

Here's my working design
Also, be sure to only attach to the left and right battery lead dont let the +\- wires touch any of the other battery leads, a good way to this if u want to test it 1st is to use alligator clips to connect +\- wires and use a small square of electrical tape to cover the other 4 leads.
VERY IMPORTANT: You need to use a USB 1.0 Cord, USB 2.0 voltage is too high, that maybe why you got the RED LED
CuriousAndroid
[email protected]

curiousandroid said:
You will need torx wrenches to get the device open, Lowes sells a great mini torx screwdriver that holds several small attachments with different torx sizes in the handle for about $5 USD (and it's made of metal not plastic so it'll last!) I should also mention that i use rechargeable batteries in battery packs so if you try that method with the usb, you may want to use rechargeable NiMH or non-Rechargeable Lithium AAA's since they have a slightly higher voltage than regular batteries. I used a fast drying epoxy to better secure and protect the soldiered ends. I drilled holes through the battery cover and the plastic shell and added a small screw to secure the battery door, I drilled another hole in the battery door for the cord to come out through and tied a knot in it so that if the cord got yanked, the battery door would keep the cord from ripping off the board inside. It seems to run best @3.7v like it original lithium battery, but it will run at 5v but it gets hot if it's on too long.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
curiousandroid said:
Also, be sure to only attach to the left and right battery lead dont let the +\- wires touch any of the other battery leads, a good way to this if u want to test it 1st is to use alligator clips to connect +\- wires and use a small square of electrical tape to cover the other 4 leads.
VERY IMPORTANT: You need to use a USB 1.0 Cord, USB 2.0 voltage is too high, that maybe why you got the RED LED
CuriousAndroid
[email protected]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply. The pictures that you attached are too small to see what is connected to what. From what I understand, you are trying to use NiMH rechargeable batteries of non-rechargeable AAA batteries in place of the original battery. How do you fit AAA batteries in there? What exactly did you soldier to what? A schematic hand diagram would be nice in addition to zoomed-in photos.
I was more thinking of buying another battery for the phone from ebay for about $10 and taking its gut out and putting resistors inside the battery so that the batteries voltage would be the same. This way, if I want to make long travels in my car with Sprint Navigation on the whole time, the battery would continually get power from the car charger and put out the same voltage for the PDA device.
I am worried about the original battery having a device-recognition chip in it to regulate the charging of the battery or stopping the charging if the battery gets too hot. From what you are describing, the battery does not seem to have an internal chip that can regulate battery activity or turn off the device when the battery gets too hot. I hope this is the case of my new Sprint/HTC Touch Pro (I used to have a Sprint/HTC Mogul).
It would be nice to get a 2nd battery from ebay, take out its gut, and fit small resistors there, and render it as a "fake" battery. This way, I will be able to swap the real battery with the fake one whenever I have to use Navigation system in my car. And by attaching the car charger to the device's USB, I can power up the device through the fake battery without having to worry about battery drainage or turning off of the device from recharging and using the battery at the same time. Do you have any suggestions on how to do this or have you tried to do this yourself?

sorry about the pic, the forum wouldnt let me upload full sized version, i'll try to us a link instead and put it on photobucket.
I think the regulatory chip for lithium batteries is normally stored in the battery pack itself, you cant see it unless you peel off the plastic layer on the outside of the battery, also inside the pack you will find a couple of generic lithium cells, that can be replaced with same voltage/size cells from many other pda/phone battery packs, though it does require a bit of careful soldiering the cells to the regulatory chip and battery harness. BTW "AAA" batteries don't actually fit in the device, but i plugged them in via usb battery pack to the usb plug i soldiered into the device. I suppose it may be possible to fit 3 "AAAA" batteries in the device since they are thinner, but they probably wouldn't last too long between charges.
the reg chip probably connects through the middle 4 prongs that I don't use [+||||-]

Battery holds charge, but phone restarts when not in a charger. More details inside.

Hey,
My LG G3 battery's holding a charge seemingly well, but it isn't able to power the phone anymore, for some reason. Off the phone, I've managed to have six common DC motors and 12 High Intensity SMD LED's running for two days, to test the battery capacity, and it managed this feat with 30% battery remaining. It seems OK by me.
But after plugging a single high power DC engine, the battery kinda "shuts down", like it tripped a breaker or something, and only turns on again after I remove the connected device. Several other batteries I own (notably many Nokia BL-5C, originals and knock-offs) are able to hold the high power DC motor flawlessly. Using an amperimeter to hit the terminals, it briefly shows 1.1A before "turning off", while other batteries just keep powered, showing 1.4A, 1.5A on the display.
On the phone, I think that when it tries to pull a high load from the battery, the battery turns off and the phone resets. On a charger, though, it is able to run indefinitely. If I disconnect the charger and don't touch the phone, with the screen on, it'll most likely keep on, until a notification arrives, or when I touch the screen (probably the touch boost that draws energy)
The battery isn't stuffed (i.e. "fat"), looks healthy visually and it seems to hold a charge pretty well, so I don't think it's internally shorted... right? What's possibly wrong with it?
P.S.: I've already ordered two new batteries.

ilmec PM'd me, as he cannot post yet.
ilmec said:
I can't reply on the tread you open so I send you a PM
I have the same problem. The phone works only with the USB cable pluged in. Without the cable, the phone goes out to the first notification. Problem starts with the 23/12 CM13 and the 26/12 the phone turn off. I try with the solution in the CM13 tread but nothing works. Stores tell me that it is a hardware problem and not the battery. Service centers are closed until the end of the holidays. I will buy a new battery but I think it is not the solution.
Please let me know if a new battery is the solution to the problem.
Sorry for my bad english...
PS: i post the link for the CM13 tread with the guide that I tried to use thinking in a hard brick
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=64531740&postcount=1041
http://open-freax.fr/guide-unbrick-your-lg-g3/
http://forum.xda-developers.com/sprint-lg-g3/general/guide-fix-hard-brick-recovery-guide-t3132359
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interestingly enough, it happened after a freeze and discharge overnight on CM13.
I do think it's the battery, though, because it also does that in TWRP, and my tests on the battery itself showed a weird pattern of sudden shutdown on heavy power consumption. Perhaps CM13's freeze contributed in damaging the battery, but I think the remaining of the hardware is in good shape. Mine would die on the first notification if sound is enabled, because it'd die just milliseconds after starting playing the notification sound, or just at random after I remove the power cable. I'm 98% sure it's the battery, at least in my case. I've managed to access TWRP, backup CM13, wipe the system and install the new LG Marshmallow ROM, all by using the charger cable. I've managed to boot up on the ROM, set it up and restore my Titanium Backup.
From my experience, stores always lies about "shorts" in the phone motherboard. It's a inexplicable excuse that most of the customers bite. I've had a friend taht was told his "wifi card" from his G3 had "busted", and it needed a "replacement" of the "wifi module only". As you know, the wifi module is integrated in the Snapdragon 801, so that'd be impossible if not replacing the entire SoC. He asked for my help, but I couldn't reach him. Most likely a hard reset and reflash of a stock KDZ would fix his issue, but he had to take it to a "professional", which asked for a good amount of money for "fixing" it. Probably they just did what I suggested, and took his money after a lame excuse.
I could be wrong, too. Although both our phones had similar issues after 12/23 CM13's, my case can be different than yours. One thing that I was willing to try was to rig another battery (like I said, I have many from different models) to the probably damaged LG G3 battery, to see if it holds the phone. Unfortunately, just connecting a different battery to the G3 will show a "?" mark on the screen, similar to that when you plug it in without a battery. Rigging it with the stock battery would fool the phone thinking the battery is original and is running fine, but unfortunately I cannot reach the terminals safely when the battery's connected. I'd rather just wait for the new batteries to come.
Can I post your PM to the thread? It seems very pertinent.
Thanks

I have seen batteries do all kinds of stuff. Most deff hold nominal operating voltages not just on phones but all things theyll hold nominal voltage but the actuall amperage to drive whatever isnt there. Not like a dead cell where forsay a 12 volt car batt has 6 cells 3 pos 3 neg each cell a. 2 volts per cell equalling 12 volts 1 cells bad 10 volts. Now back to even though u tested the batt i would still try a cheap bat and see the g3s are real finicky on batts normally i dont recomend a cheap batt or the bigger batts i always use the oem bat

which part is wrong in my e988 ?

Before flexible-homebutton-softkeys-charger port part replacement :
1. Battery already swollen
2. Home button unresponsive most of the time
After flexible-homebutton-softkeys-charger port part replacement :
1.home button still unresponsive most of the time
2. Charging the phone only reach 15% max, then it goes down to 14%, then goes up to 15% again in infinite cycle
3. Had to use external battery charger in order to get the battery charged to 100%
Which part in my e988 is the real source of this problem ?

Paleskin said:
Before flexible-homebutton-softkeys-charger port part replacement :
1. Battery already swollen
2. Home button unresponsive most of the time
After flexible-homebutton-softkeys-charger port part replacement :
1.home button still unresponsive most of the time
2. Charging the phone only reach 15% max, then it goes down to 14%, then goes up to 15% again in infinite cycle
3. Had to use external battery charger in order to get the battery charged to 100%
Which part in my e988 is the real source of this problem ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had similar home-button issues with Galaxy R after DIY screen assembly replacement. Can be button having bad physical contact with board (manifested by dropped button, short clicks, hard button or even too soft button; button has to be in level with front panel glass and has to be soft-ish, but shouldn't get stuck or too hard to press), can be board's bad connection with motherboard - check that micro connector, it maybe didn't fit properly or there is possibly some dust in it (this was my issue with Galaxy R).
Battery one is probably connected multiple factors, including broken battery, because I think that charging electronics in E988 won't allow charging of broken batteries on high currents - mine didn't even want to start with broken or replacement batteries without temperature sensor (so had no luck finding good replacements - funny enough, friend with F240K could use all of those). Capacity reading can be also false (but if battery is charging with powerbank, but not with charger, small chances for that) - you may want to check what dmesg reports - it gives constant battery percentage and voltage updates during charging, and also check Ampere measurements while on charger to make sure device actually has some juice coming in.
Last idea was from experience, I've connected mine (while it's pot was 100% functional) to a friends cable, device charged up to some percent (maybe 20%), and started playing same game due to really low charging current it was getting from that cable. Back then I didn't have Ampere, but I was accustomed to things like that from the begging, when my brand-new E988 didn't want to charge on Samsung and Nokia cables Had to trade some really nice and long Nokia cable for crappy LG's one longer than 50cm because of that...
P.S. How did you get that part all in one? Isn't home button/softkeys one assembly, and USB/OTG/MHL/Charging another? Or my old E988 somehow differs from yours. I'm looking for charger assembly because I gave my phone to a family member who asked for it and knew about a problem, and they are already whining how "it works only with one cable and I can't use phone while it's charging!"

ShadySquirrel said:
I had similar home-button issues with Galaxy R after DIY screen assembly replacement. Can be button having bad physical contact with board (manifested by dropped button, short clicks, hard button or even too soft button; button has to be in level with front panel glass and has to be soft-ish, but shouldn't get stuck or too hard to press), can be board's bad connection with motherboard - check that micro connector, it maybe didn't fit properly or there is possibly some dust in it (this was my issue with Galaxy R).
Battery one is probably connected multiple factors, including broken battery, because I think that charging electronics in E988 won't allow charging of broken batteries on high currents - mine didn't even want to start with broken or replacement batteries without temperature sensor (so had no luck finding good replacements - funny enough, friend with F240K could use all of those). Capacity reading can be also false (but if battery is charging with powerbank, but not with charger, small chances for that) - you may want to check what dmesg reports - it gives constant battery percentage and voltage updates during charging, and also check Ampere measurements while on charger to make sure device actually has some juice coming in.
Last idea was from experience, I've connected mine (while it's pot was 100% functional) to a friends cable, device charged up to some percent (maybe 20%), and started playing same game due to really low charging current it was getting from that cable. Back then I didn't have Ampere, but I was accustomed to things like that from the begging, when my brand-new E988 didn't want to charge on Samsung and Nokia cables Had to trade some really nice and long Nokia cable for crappy LG's one longer than 50cm because of that...
P.S. How did you get that part all in one? Isn't home button/softkeys one assembly, and USB/OTG/MHL/Charging another? Or my old E988 somehow differs from yours. I'm looking for charger assembly because I gave my phone to a family member who asked for it and knew about a problem, and they are already whining how "it works only with one cable and I can't use phone while it's charging!"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the part, which I bought online
Yet, it still doesnt fix the problem, is it possible that the IC chip on the board is the real culprit ?

Paleskin said:
This is the part, which I bought online
Yet, it still doesnt fix the problem, is it possible that the IC chip on the board is the real culprit ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure my USB board looks like one from the attachment, without all that plastics around... I may be wrong, though, it was long time ago I've opened my device, and I can't really grab it now and open to check out.
As for the IC, chances for that are small. Have you tried charging with other cable/charger pair? If buttons aren't working you can always use on-screen ones, but port is a greater issue.

ShadySquirrel said:
I'm pretty sure my USB board looks like one from the attachment, without all that plastics around... I may be wrong, though, it was long time ago I've opened my device, and I can't really grab it now and open to check out.
As for the IC, chances for that are small. Have you tried charging with other cable/charger pair? If buttons aren't working you can always use on-screen ones, but port is a greater issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That plastics are the softkeys, and in the middle are the home button and micro usb port
Tried many cables, all give the same result

Red led of death

Hi all, my Nexus 5x wont charge but Red led is blinking and then nothing happens, I broke the originale LG type c cable and I left the phone discharged for 5-6 days until the new cable come, and now It wont boot nor charge with no cable or Wall charger combination, searched on web and found people saying to let It in charger overnight then try booting and similar things but nothing is working.
anyone here got this problem?:crying:

Hi, I had the same issue... and charging overnight will not fix your problem....
it happened 5/6 times to my phone, the only way to make it works, was to pull out- pull in the original charger, and after 10/20 times you do this, it will work again.
I bring it to LG assistance and they told me that sometimes, all the updates and the full memory (mine was not full, but 17gb over 32) made this. I didn't believe that, BUT an hard reset of the phone and it never happened again in 3 months
Hope it will work for you too

dimostar said:
Hi, I had the same issue... and charging overnight will not fix your problem....
it happened 5/6 times to my phone, the only way to make it works, was to pull out- pull in the original charger, and after 10/20 times you do this, it will work again.
I bring it to LG assistance and they told me that sometimes, all the updates and the full memory (mine was not full, but 17gb over 32) made this. I didn't believe that, BUT an hard reset of the phone and it never happened again in 3 months
Hope it will work for you too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I will try, but how much time do I have to wait before pulling out and pull in again the charger?

Can anyone help me please?

I had the same. I forget about phone and left it with TWRP running. It drained all my battery and phone wont turn at all. I had this same red LED, so i plugged phone to charger and after maybe 2 hours it turned back on (charging screen), wnother hour and my nexus was fully restored with full charge.
Also i recommend you to get original charger and original usbc cable. Also before it you can hold power button for 30 sec. In some Xperia phones even a few days can do a trick.

Finally understanded the problem Thanks to "Dusan Milanovic"
In my case it was:
- 50% Battery problem
- 50% Qualcomm Power IC Chip
How I solved it:
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR EVERY DAMAGE YOU MAKE TO YOUR PHONE, HOUSE, GRANDMA.
REQUIREMENTS:
- Alluminium foil (biscuit metallic paper) not plastic
- Hairdryer (It seems stupid ahah)
- Chronometer
- Attention!
- A bit of patience
BATTERY PHASE
- Open the Phone and remove Fingerprint board.
- Remove the Battery.
- Put the battery on an universal charger.
(do this only if you are sure that the battery is discharged and don't want to charge)
Let it charge for an hour more and less.
POWER IC CHIP. PHASE
- Remove the metallic protection between the camera and the battery slot.
- Look for a black chip surrounded by little grey chips. (POWER IC)
- Protect everything in the motherboard with the Alluminium foil except for the black chip.
BE VERY CAREFUL, PROTECT EVERY SINGLE GREY CHIP NEAR THE POWER IC CHIP.
-Prepare the Chronometer 1 minute.
(NOT MORE THAN 2 MINUTES OR YOU MAY SERIOUSLY DAMAGE THE MOTHERBOARD)
-Use the Hairdryer to heat the POWER IC CHIP
(DO NOT USE HEATGUN). The chip needs to reach around 100°C
-After you heated the chip let it cool down for a minute or two
-Remount the metallic protection.
LAST PHASE
- Put the battery on the phone
- close everything
- Try to boot it
ALL DONE?:highfive:
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
- always shows 100% battery. → buy a new battery( this one is Dead)
-Doesn't boot.↓
→Are you sure your battery is charged?
No: charge it externally (BE VERY CAREFUL THIS COULD BE VERY DANGEROUS)
Yes: then try to heat again the POWER IC CHIP (2 MINUTES MAX)
→Still nothing?
- Buy a new Battery, this is the best choice.
- If even after you use the new Battery the Phone doesn't boot , just heat again that pain in the ass of a ic CHIP.

MounirHero said:
Finally understanded the problem Thanks to "Dusan Milanovic"
In my case it was:
- 50% Battery problem
- 50% Qualcomm Power IC Chip
How I solved it:
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR EVERY DAMAGE YOU MAKE TO YOUR PHONE, HOUSE, GRANDMA.
REQUIREMENTS:
- Alluminium foil (biscuit metallic paper) not plastic
- Hairdryer (It seems stupid ahah)
- Chronometer
- Attention!
- A bit of patience
BATTERY PHASE
- Open the Phone and remove Fingerprint board.
- Remove the Battery.
- Put the battery on an universal charger.
(do this only if you are sure that the battery is discharged and don't want to charge)
Let it charge for an hour more and less.
POWER IC CHIP. PHASE
- Remove the metallic protection between the camera and the battery slot.
- Look for a black chip surrounded by little grey chips. (POWER IC)
- Protect everything in the motherboard with the Alluminium foil except for the black chip.
BE VERY CAREFUL, PROTECT EVERY SINGLE GREY CHIP NEAR THE POWER IC CHIP.
-Prepare the Chronometer 1 minute.
(NOT MORE THAN 2 MINUTES OR YOU MAY SERIOUSLY DAMAGE THE MOTHERBOARD)
-Use the Hairdryer to heat the POWER IC CHIP
(DO NOT USE HEATGUN). The chip needs to reach around 100°C
-After you heated the chip let it cool down for a minute or two
-Remount the metallic protection.
LAST PHASE
- Put the battery on the phone
- close everything
- Try to boot it
ALL DONE?:highfive:
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
- always shows 100% battery. → buy a new battery( this one is Dead)
-Doesn't boot.↓
→Are you sure your battery is charged?
No: charge it externally (BE VERY CAREFUL THIS COULD BE VERY DANGEROUS)
Yes: then try to heat again the POWER IC CHIP (2 MINUTES MAX)
→Still nothing?
- Buy a new Battery, this is the best choice.
- If even after you use the new Battery the Phone doesn't boot , just heat again that pain in the ass of a ic CHIP.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I followed you steps and successful got it to work , but now it is showing that charger is pluged in but not charging, the charging symbol comes bit of does not charge , I even went into cpuid and saw that the status was not charging but plunged in ac power , I am ready to buy a new a battery but will it solve my issue of is it a pin connector issue

dimostar said:
Hi, I had the same issue... and charging overnight will not fix your problem....
it happened 5/6 times to my phone, the only way to make it works, was to pull out- pull in the original charger, and after 10/20 times you do this, it will work again.
I bring it to LG assistance and they told me that sometimes, all the updates and the full memory (mine was not full, but 17gb over 32) made this. I didn't believe that, BUT an hard reset of the phone and it never happened again in 3 months
Hope it will work for you too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MounirHero said:
Thanks, I will try, but how much time do I have to wait before pulling out and pull in again the charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the same issue tried changing battery but nothing changed
When phone turns on backup your files when you are in time

dimostar said:
Hi, I had the same issue... and charging overnight will not fix your problem....
it happened 5/6 times to my phone, the only way to make it works, was to pull out- pull in the original charger, and after 10/20 times you do this, it will work again.
I bring it to LG assistance and they told me that sometimes, all the updates and the full memory (mine was not full, but 17gb over 32) made this. I didn't believe that, BUT an hard reset of the phone and it never happened again in 3 months
Hope it will work for you too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HARD RESET instructions or link you followd that worked drop below

I just had the same thing happen. Using the original charger I kept on charging then trying again and again. I would leave it overnight unplugged from the charger. I think the battery was draining due to screen not coming on but phone booting over and over. Finally after about 6 times, I saw a battery symbol, then pressing power it came on as if everything was just fine.

I found another way, though be careful. Repeatedly unplugging/replugging did not help. Disassembled phone (lots of guides), unplugged battery. Measured 2.96v - too low for lipo. Used lipo charger (100mah) to boost charge to 3.2v. Reassembled, and it charged OK.
Cause is probably voltage dropped below the low charge threshold for lipo charging cct onboard. Lipos are very tricky to charge - lots of papers on this. In theory Nexus should have shut itself down before voltage dropped that low - but it didn't. Design flaw.

i had red blinking but battery was empty.
since in bootloop it will not charge, after i repaired reflow and patched the boot
to 4 core it worked perfect.
so if someone comes here and wonders, it might not be the charging chip
just the battery empty