Hi all, my Nexus 5x wont charge but Red led is blinking and then nothing happens, I broke the originale LG type c cable and I left the phone discharged for 5-6 days until the new cable come, and now It wont boot nor charge with no cable or Wall charger combination, searched on web and found people saying to let It in charger overnight then try booting and similar things but nothing is working.
anyone here got this problem?:crying:
Hi, I had the same issue... and charging overnight will not fix your problem....
it happened 5/6 times to my phone, the only way to make it works, was to pull out- pull in the original charger, and after 10/20 times you do this, it will work again.
I bring it to LG assistance and they told me that sometimes, all the updates and the full memory (mine was not full, but 17gb over 32) made this. I didn't believe that, BUT an hard reset of the phone and it never happened again in 3 months
Hope it will work for you too
dimostar said:
Hi, I had the same issue... and charging overnight will not fix your problem....
it happened 5/6 times to my phone, the only way to make it works, was to pull out- pull in the original charger, and after 10/20 times you do this, it will work again.
I bring it to LG assistance and they told me that sometimes, all the updates and the full memory (mine was not full, but 17gb over 32) made this. I didn't believe that, BUT an hard reset of the phone and it never happened again in 3 months
Hope it will work for you too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I will try, but how much time do I have to wait before pulling out and pull in again the charger?
Can anyone help me please?
I had the same. I forget about phone and left it with TWRP running. It drained all my battery and phone wont turn at all. I had this same red LED, so i plugged phone to charger and after maybe 2 hours it turned back on (charging screen), wnother hour and my nexus was fully restored with full charge.
Also i recommend you to get original charger and original usbc cable. Also before it you can hold power button for 30 sec. In some Xperia phones even a few days can do a trick.
Finally understanded the problem Thanks to "Dusan Milanovic"
In my case it was:
- 50% Battery problem
- 50% Qualcomm Power IC Chip
How I solved it:
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR EVERY DAMAGE YOU MAKE TO YOUR PHONE, HOUSE, GRANDMA.
REQUIREMENTS:
- Alluminium foil (biscuit metallic paper) not plastic
- Hairdryer (It seems stupid ahah)
- Chronometer
- Attention!
- A bit of patience
BATTERY PHASE
- Open the Phone and remove Fingerprint board.
- Remove the Battery.
- Put the battery on an universal charger.
(do this only if you are sure that the battery is discharged and don't want to charge)
Let it charge for an hour more and less.
POWER IC CHIP. PHASE
- Remove the metallic protection between the camera and the battery slot.
- Look for a black chip surrounded by little grey chips. (POWER IC)
- Protect everything in the motherboard with the Alluminium foil except for the black chip.
BE VERY CAREFUL, PROTECT EVERY SINGLE GREY CHIP NEAR THE POWER IC CHIP.
-Prepare the Chronometer 1 minute.
(NOT MORE THAN 2 MINUTES OR YOU MAY SERIOUSLY DAMAGE THE MOTHERBOARD)
-Use the Hairdryer to heat the POWER IC CHIP
(DO NOT USE HEATGUN). The chip needs to reach around 100°C
-After you heated the chip let it cool down for a minute or two
-Remount the metallic protection.
LAST PHASE
- Put the battery on the phone
- close everything
- Try to boot it
ALL DONE?:highfive:
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
- always shows 100% battery. → buy a new battery( this one is Dead)
-Doesn't boot.↓
→Are you sure your battery is charged?
No: charge it externally (BE VERY CAREFUL THIS COULD BE VERY DANGEROUS)
Yes: then try to heat again the POWER IC CHIP (2 MINUTES MAX)
→Still nothing?
- Buy a new Battery, this is the best choice.
- If even after you use the new Battery the Phone doesn't boot , just heat again that pain in the ass of a ic CHIP.
MounirHero said:
Finally understanded the problem Thanks to "Dusan Milanovic"
In my case it was:
- 50% Battery problem
- 50% Qualcomm Power IC Chip
How I solved it:
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR EVERY DAMAGE YOU MAKE TO YOUR PHONE, HOUSE, GRANDMA.
REQUIREMENTS:
- Alluminium foil (biscuit metallic paper) not plastic
- Hairdryer (It seems stupid ahah)
- Chronometer
- Attention!
- A bit of patience
BATTERY PHASE
- Open the Phone and remove Fingerprint board.
- Remove the Battery.
- Put the battery on an universal charger.
(do this only if you are sure that the battery is discharged and don't want to charge)
Let it charge for an hour more and less.
POWER IC CHIP. PHASE
- Remove the metallic protection between the camera and the battery slot.
- Look for a black chip surrounded by little grey chips. (POWER IC)
- Protect everything in the motherboard with the Alluminium foil except for the black chip.
BE VERY CAREFUL, PROTECT EVERY SINGLE GREY CHIP NEAR THE POWER IC CHIP.
-Prepare the Chronometer 1 minute.
(NOT MORE THAN 2 MINUTES OR YOU MAY SERIOUSLY DAMAGE THE MOTHERBOARD)
-Use the Hairdryer to heat the POWER IC CHIP
(DO NOT USE HEATGUN). The chip needs to reach around 100°C
-After you heated the chip let it cool down for a minute or two
-Remount the metallic protection.
LAST PHASE
- Put the battery on the phone
- close everything
- Try to boot it
ALL DONE?:highfive:
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
- always shows 100% battery. → buy a new battery( this one is Dead)
-Doesn't boot.↓
→Are you sure your battery is charged?
No: charge it externally (BE VERY CAREFUL THIS COULD BE VERY DANGEROUS)
Yes: then try to heat again the POWER IC CHIP (2 MINUTES MAX)
→Still nothing?
- Buy a new Battery, this is the best choice.
- If even after you use the new Battery the Phone doesn't boot , just heat again that pain in the ass of a ic CHIP.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I followed you steps and successful got it to work , but now it is showing that charger is pluged in but not charging, the charging symbol comes bit of does not charge , I even went into cpuid and saw that the status was not charging but plunged in ac power , I am ready to buy a new a battery but will it solve my issue of is it a pin connector issue
dimostar said:
Hi, I had the same issue... and charging overnight will not fix your problem....
it happened 5/6 times to my phone, the only way to make it works, was to pull out- pull in the original charger, and after 10/20 times you do this, it will work again.
I bring it to LG assistance and they told me that sometimes, all the updates and the full memory (mine was not full, but 17gb over 32) made this. I didn't believe that, BUT an hard reset of the phone and it never happened again in 3 months
Hope it will work for you too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MounirHero said:
Thanks, I will try, but how much time do I have to wait before pulling out and pull in again the charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the same issue tried changing battery but nothing changed
When phone turns on backup your files when you are in time
dimostar said:
Hi, I had the same issue... and charging overnight will not fix your problem....
it happened 5/6 times to my phone, the only way to make it works, was to pull out- pull in the original charger, and after 10/20 times you do this, it will work again.
I bring it to LG assistance and they told me that sometimes, all the updates and the full memory (mine was not full, but 17gb over 32) made this. I didn't believe that, BUT an hard reset of the phone and it never happened again in 3 months
Hope it will work for you too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HARD RESET instructions or link you followd that worked drop below
I just had the same thing happen. Using the original charger I kept on charging then trying again and again. I would leave it overnight unplugged from the charger. I think the battery was draining due to screen not coming on but phone booting over and over. Finally after about 6 times, I saw a battery symbol, then pressing power it came on as if everything was just fine.
I found another way, though be careful. Repeatedly unplugging/replugging did not help. Disassembled phone (lots of guides), unplugged battery. Measured 2.96v - too low for lipo. Used lipo charger (100mah) to boost charge to 3.2v. Reassembled, and it charged OK.
Cause is probably voltage dropped below the low charge threshold for lipo charging cct onboard. Lipos are very tricky to charge - lots of papers on this. In theory Nexus should have shut itself down before voltage dropped that low - but it didn't. Design flaw.
i had red blinking but battery was empty.
since in bootloop it will not charge, after i repaired reflow and patched the boot
to 4 core it worked perfect.
so if someone comes here and wonders, it might not be the charging chip
just the battery empty
Related
Hi,
I have recently purchased my P525 from Taiwan and after four months battery level indicator stuck at 71%.
I have reset it several times but no luck so far.
Also i have updated my ROM as well as Radio to the latest version from ASUS site..but no luck so far..
I have gone through different threads and seems people have fantastic knowledge about the WM5 and PDAs.
I cannot change the battery as I am in Mumbai, India and ASUS is very less popular here.
Please suggest some tweaks or some utility so that I can see the exact status of battery used..
Thanks a lot in advance.
deja vu
there is no solution for this.
the only way is to take it to asus ,because it the batterie problem(they will replace the batterie with new one if you have garentie).
i have asus p525 since 12.12.2006 and since 2 weeks i got the same problem ,batterie level stuck at 82% .i tried everything ,update the new firmware,hard,soft reset,even let the batterie die till 0% then charge again. but nothing helps.
i had another extra batterie so i put it in and everything work normal (so its for sure the batterie).
or buy new batterie or send it to asus.
Thanx for the quick reply...but as i stated I am not able to find the new battery here in Mumbai, India...so was thinking if some tweak can help me...
Will search for battery...
Anyone else faced the same problem...
shabbirali said:
Thanx for the quick reply...but as i stated I am not able to find the new battery here in Mumbai, India...so was thinking if some tweak can help me...
Will search for battery...
Anyone else faced the same problem...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can buy it from ebay like i did.
almost everyone have the asus p525 have the problem with the shipped battery.
i used to read the forum and say :i am lucky that my batterie is ok,until 2 weeks ago.(i knew thats coming at me).
anyway no tweak or program will help you m8.
don´t break your head searching for solution,i allready been searching and reading forums about pda`s and phone since 2 years ,and this problem is batterie hardware problem.
SO you have to live with your batterie 72% all the time ,till the phone dies.
or go search for other batterie.
Thanx.. for a good piece of advice.. I will search it in ebay if they can send a good battery....
It's a well known problem for P525 battery. My first one stuck at 100% after 9 month of use. I am using the 2nd one (free when I brought my P525) which doesn't have this problem
sx1-doc, what 4G mini-SD are you using for yr P525? I thought the max that P525 support is only 2G.
__________________________________________________
ASUS P525 ROM: Custom WWE v3.43.0 w/ Chinese support
Eten M600 ROM: Custom Hong Kong 230 w/ USB Host support
Dell Axim X51V ROM: Custom WWE A12
the 4 gb mini sd i bought on ebay normal mini sd (not hcsd).
i had some problems with it before couple of months (i thought it was corrupted ) but it works like a charm since 2 months.
some screenchots.
p.s(the batterie is the old batterie that stuck on 82% in pic 2,i use it one day full use, then i charge )
sx1-doc said:
the 4 gb mini sd i bought on ebay normal mini sd (not hcsd).
i had some problems with it before couple of months (i thought it was corrupted ) but it works like a charm since 2 months.
some screenchots.
p.s(the batterie is the old batterie that stuck on 82% in pic 2,i use it one day full use, then i charge )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any brand on it? Can you post a pic of yr miniSD? Thanks
add picture
Battery Level Indicator freezing problem is solved.
Dismount the battery by removing black film from both sides. Heat the "positive" contact attached to the controller by the copper (I mean soldering-iron) and lift it up.
You will see the elements on a plate. (See the picture attached in zip)
The red-marked place is empty. You are to put a capacitor there (any kind - for example 20-100 nF). I took the first one I found on the dead battery controller from MPx200.
That's it!
Solder the positive bus back to controller. Mount the battery (you should use some new tape to cover the body of a battery).
Enjoy.
Thanks Andrew,
But it seems to be a risk to do that..any suggestions.
There is another solution that does not require you to disassemble the battery, though you must be very careful and thorough with it.
Battery should be at moderate charge. Obviously you can not see the real charge value, but you can estimate it (ie do a full charge, and the use PDA for about half a time it normally lasts).
Then remove the battery from the PDA.
You will need a good external DC (not AC!!!) power supply that can provide about 12V DC at about 500-1000mA current (be sure - no more then 1000mA!). Slightly more or less voltage is fine. I myself did it with 15V 1000mA supply.
Connect power supply - to the battery - contact. Briefly connect power supply + to the battery + contact for about 2-3 seconds.
Connect power supply - to the battery + contact. BRIEFLY connect power supply + to the battery - contact (reverse polarity). MAKE SURE YOU WONT LEAVE IT CONNECTED FOR MORE THEN ABOUT 2 (two) SECONDS!. Sparks are normal, just dont connect it for long.
After that you can replace battery in the PDA. Indicator will show last "stuck" value, but dont be upset - it will not be stuck anymore. Start with full discharge immediately - you will see it will go down now.
Make sure you do full discharge first!
(Due to the battery "remembering" the initial stuck value instead of current true charge, if you will start charging it first, you may hit the situation when battery hits full charge voltage and overcharge switch kicks in before estimated capacity will be truly at 100%, and it can prevent you from reaching reported 100% forever.)
After full discharge, do a full recharge immediately (better with ASUS power supply, not via USB), and after that you should have fully functional & calibrated battery again.
I have just tried it myself on my stuck battery (ver. 1.2) and confirm that it works. At least 3 persons from asusmobile.ru confirmed that it works too. Just be sure you use the right external power supply and dont connect it for long.
Thanks to the GlazkovD from asusmobile.ru for providing this solution.
Btw, if you wonder about source of the problem, it seems to be not the "hung battery controller" contrary to the popular beleif, though the cause of the problem is truly the battery hardware. Hung battery controller results in "unknown charge" error on the PDA, and failure even to obtain the version of the battery (because all these values can not be reported by the frozen battery controller via the SMBus or whatever they do use).
This one is almost positive the voltage monitor/ADC entering the saturated state. So it stops reporting the current battery voltage to the controller - effectively preventing the capacity estimation algorithm from working (but controller is not frozen, it works, it just can not compute the charge anymore so its left at last known value).
Obviously this is a hardware design problem and its 100% can not be solved via any software patch or solution.
The saturated voltage monitoring circuit can be "unstuck" by several ways, thats why people reported various solutions:
- by disassembling the battery and briefly shortening the contacts AndrewSh outlined. Via resistor or capacitor, basically the same. Hovewer, I would not recommend to permanently solder anything there - most likely it will cause monitor circuit to slightly shift the reported voltages (since ver. 1.2 battery firmware was not designed with capacitor in mind) and may cause the improper LiIon cell handling (ie it will report 3.4V when true voltage is 3.2V - may cause a problems on the long run or reduced capacity).
- by disconnecting the LiIon cell from controller board for some time - this removes all power from it and effectively resets the monitoring circuit. Also can be achieved by briefly shortening the cell contacts (via a resistor only, to limit the current!!). Again, this mentions cell contacts, that you see only if you disassemble the battery package, not the external gold-plated contacts. Shortening the external gold-plated contacts will achieve nothing in most cases.
- by the "external shock therapy" outlined in the previous post. Slight and brief overvoltages/overcurrents are not enough to actually fry anything, but enough to kick the voltage monitoring circuit from its saturated state.
- also in some cases voltage monitor circuit can leave its saturated state on itself with time or with any other slight unpredictable stimulus. hovewer in most cases this wont happen.
Ingvarr way to fix that does not really matter. Additional capacitors or "shock-therapy" both work pretty well.
We discovered (see wce.by) already that some ver 1.2 controllers contain that capacitor. But have minor changes in chip types and versions. So sometimes is necessary to remove the existing capacitor depending on the controller type.
Anyway - one of mine works pretty well since April (with the capacitor mounted) without any issues (overheating, wrong charge level reports, reduced battery life and so on)
Actually it was never proven that capacitor is needed - only original circuit designers actually know that, and they are not talking . As you surely seen yourself, capacitor-containing boards are of slightly different design (that maybe actually takes capacitor into account). However both designs still subject to same issue - very slight chance that it will freeze the monitoring, with capacitor or not.
To solder the capacitor, you need to detach the battery from controller board - simply doing that and waiting for some time will already cause voltage monitor to reset and un-stuck (even if you will not solder the capacitor and not touch anything else and just solder the battery back).
Since this issue may not appear for many months even on "wrong" hardware, its very hard to say for certain wheither capacitor actually helps or not, or wheither the issue will ever appear on modified hardware again or not.
IMO its easier not to bother and just reset it with external PSU. Most likely it won't reappear in a months anyway, if reappear at all. I would advise against doing permanent hardware changes on the blind, when you dont exactly know what purpose they serve. Just to be on the safe side But its up to the personal preferences I guess
shock treatment is working perfectly
Dear All,
First of all thanks to Ingvarr and GlazkovD for the solution, I checked it and perfectly working . I used old alcatel mobile charger with 12v 500mA
thanks once again
Ingvarr said:
There is another solution that does not require you to disassemble the battery, though you must be very careful and thorough with it.
Battery should be at moderate charge. Obviously you can not see the real charge value, but you can estimate it (ie do a full charge, and the use PDA for about half a time it normally lasts).
Then remove the battery from the PDA.
You will need a good external DC (not AC!!!) power supply that can provide about 12V DC at about 500-1000mA current (be sure - no more then 1000mA!). Slightly more or less voltage is fine. I myself did it with 15V 1000mA supply.
Connect power supply - to the battery - contact. Briefly connect power supply + to the battery + contact for about 2-3 seconds.
Connect power supply - to the battery + contact. BRIEFLY connect power supply + to the battery - contact (reverse polarity). MAKE SURE YOU WONT LEAVE IT CONNECTED FOR MORE THEN ABOUT 2 (two) SECONDS!. Sparks are normal, just dont connect it for long.
After that you can replace battery in the PDA. Indicator will show last "stuck" value, but dont be upset - it will not be stuck anymore. Start with full discharge immediately - you will see it will go down now.
Make sure you do full discharge first!
(Due to the battery "remembering" the initial stuck value instead of current true charge, if you will start charging it first, you may hit the situation when battery hits full charge voltage and overcharge switch kicks in before estimated capacity will be truly at 100%, and it can prevent you from reaching reported 100% forever.)
After full discharge, do a full recharge immediately (better with ASUS power supply, not via USB), and after that you should have fully functional & calibrated battery again.
I have just tried it myself on my stuck battery (ver. 1.2) and confirm that it works. At least 3 persons from asusmobile.ru confirmed that it works too. Just be sure you use the right external power supply and dont connect it for long.
Thanks to the GlazkovD from asusmobile.ru for providing this solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Outstanding !!
This solution really worked on my battery. Mine was stucked at 100%. I used a 12V 500mah charger for this.
After the "electric chair" treatment the battery is working like new. Actually, I have the phone in use for two days with no need of recharge at all.
Thanks a lot !!
Hi,
yesterday I bought a used R800i, the seller said I just need to charge the Battery. So back at home i plugged it to a charger an the LED near the power button startet blinking. First I thought it´s not a big deal but after a couple of hours it was clear that this is not alrigt. Even if i remove the battery the red light keeps blinking continuous (not 3 times or something similar, just every second once). I don´t know if it´s a software or hardware bug but could you help me to get it fixed?
best Regards
Lukas
It could be empty battery (but voltage level is not high enough to start charging).
Check with flashtool can you enter flash mode or fastboot mode (if you can, then it's probably empty battery)
If you can, check voltage level of battery with voltmeter.
It can be that motherboard is dead, but to be sure, you must know what is voltage level of battery.
For now, try leaving it charging, it might take some time (few hours or more) to actually start charging...
Sent from my R800i using XDA Free mobile app
Over USB i only get unkown device, but USB with the Test Point works, measuring the Batter was 0 Volts but charging over hours didn´t help
Lukas94 said:
Over USB i only get unkown device, but USB with the Test Point works, measuring the Batter was 0 Volts but charging over hours didn´t help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If battery have 0 volts then it's dead and (most likely) can't be charged anymore. You need new battery, so you can know is motherboard is working or not.
But that is just my opinion, and i could be wrong...
Maybe to try and charge battery from external source of 5V power , easiest way is cut some usb cable or take two wires from PC's molex connector (red is +5V, black is GND) and charge it for shortly (about 30sec-1min) and measure does it have at least 3.2V. Repeat short charging untill it does. If it stay on 0V then is dead for sure.
I was really able to charge the battery over a cut USB cable. I got it to boot until lookscreen (digitizer does not response) but then the battery turned hot and the Xperia shut down. I ordered now a new battery then it should work again
Lukas94 said:
I was really able to charge the battery over a cut USB cable. I got it to boot until lookscreen (digitizer does not response) but then the battery turned hot and the Xperia shut down. I ordered now a new battery then it should work again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Digitizer not working could be faulty slider-flex cable or simply software error due overheating. You'll know with new battery...
Flex Cable looks like this, should I get a new one?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mixy0lczvb3hb3c/IMG_20140912_201712.jpg?dl=0
Lukas94 said:
Flex Cable looks like this, should I get a new one?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mixy0lczvb3hb3c/IMG_20140912_201712.jpg?dl=0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that's slider flex cable.
But wait untill you get new battery. Then you'll know does it have more problems or it is working normally
Sad News, today I got the new battery and i was even able to boot up the phone, but like the last time i was able to boot it up the battery and the mainboard got hot. I think the loading circuit is broken. So there are two options 1. buy a external charger for the batterie or 2. sell the phone as rarely used on ebay
No really I´m selling it, even if i get a charger theres also the problem with the not working digitzer. Thanks for your Help but this is ways to big for me.
Regards Lukas
Lukas94 said:
Sad News, today I got the new battery and i was even able to boot up the phone, but like the last time i was able to boot it up the battery and the mainboard got hot. I think the loading circuit is broken. So there are two options 1. buy a external charger for the batterie or 2. sell the phone as rarely used on ebay
No really I´m selling it, even if i get a charger theres also the problem with the not working digitzer. Thanks for your Help but this is ways to big for me.
Regards Lukas
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to hear that. Obviously problem is much bigger and hard to tell what is wrong without some proffesional look into it (lot of reasons for phone to get hot by itself - there is short circuit somewhere and that's why it's draing battery fast and causing overheating). I don't think external charger will solve problems.
Anyway, good luck :good:
Hello XDA members. I have a very troublesome issue with my galaxy tab 3 7.0 inch tablet. It will NOT turn on at all, no battery charging, no device power on, no comp recognition, nothing. I have already tried:
Letting it charge overnight (factory charger along with others) with several known working cables
Unplug battery for 5 minutes
Press and hold power, Vol Down, and home for 10 sec, 30 sec, and 1 minute
Press and hold power and vol down for 10,30,60 seconds.
I sent it in for repair and they wouldnt fix it because it's rooted. When I got it back it briefly turned on to the battery charging, but nothing since. I'm thinking there must have been some way they got it on.... All proper drivers are installed on PC and it's never been dropped, water damaged, etc.
Would anyone be able to provide insight as to why and provide a fix?
My 8 inch tab 3 wasn't coming on either a few days back, I got it back on by holding home and the power button for a while. I was about to give upwhen the battery charging image came on. I think I did the same again and it came on normally.
a97antonio said:
My 8 inch tab 3 wasn't coming on either a few days back, I got it back on by holding home and the power button for a while. I was about to give upwhen the battery charging image came on. I think I did the same again and it came on normally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was that from computer or wall?
From wall, it was about 3/4 charged by then
a97antonio said:
My 8 inch tab 3 wasn't coming on either a few days back, I got it back on by holding home and the power button for a while. I was about to give upwhen the battery charging image came on. I think I did the same again and it came on normally.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a97antonio said:
From wall, it was about 3/4 charged by then
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still no luck... I can feel the tablet getting hot down at the charge port so I know it's charging, and i know the lcd isn't damaged.
Mine is in the same condition. Anyone know how or why this happens and how to fix it?
Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk
Not sure if this will help, but just like with phones, sometimes android tablets just need a battery pull. My kids xo tablet went dead and before I tossed it in the trash I took the housing off and had to clip the + wire since it was soldered to the board. Twisted it back together to check and sure enough the tablet powered on like normal. Ive had to pull the battery on an Sm-t217a and it was a lot easier. They have a removable clip that attaches to the board.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T217A using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
I think it might be the battery itself. Just for giggles I left it plugged in for days and i just checked back on it and the Battery charging screen kept flashing on and off. Won't hold any charge. Probably will just order a new battery and see what happens. I pulled the battery a couple times and nothing happened. Closer inspection found that the tech that looked at it damaged the battery cord (unless it came with the copper on the wiring already exposed...)
xkn0s said:
I think it might be the battery itself. Just for giggles I left it plugged in for days and i just checked back on it and the Battery charging screen kept flashing on and off. Won't hold any charge. Probably will just order a new battery and see what happens. I pulled the battery a couple times and nothing happened. Closer inspection found that the tech that looked at it damaged the battery cord (unless it came with the copper on the wiring already exposed...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might be right about the battery being dead, although they usually don't just go all at once like that. The charge indicator flashing is odd. The only thing close I've seen is an "x" over the icon when there aren't enough amps (my tab needs 2 amps. 1 amp chargers and some pc usb ports give me the x.
If you have an old cable you can cut, you could try to charge the battery itself to see if it takes a charge (or at least use a multimeter on it to check for voltage). Then you could narrow it down a bit to whether it is the battery or possibly the charge port/hardware..... I saw a bit of exposed wire just before the clip of mine too, made me extra careful pulling the clip up.
rmntruexjr said:
You might be right about the battery being dead, although they usually don't just go all at once like that. The charge indicator flashing is odd. The only thing close I've seen is an "x" over the icon when there aren't enough amps (my tab needs 2 amps. 1 amp chargers and some pc usb ports give me the x.
If you have an old cable you can cut, you could try to charge the battery itself to see if it takes a charge (or at least use a multimeter on it to check for voltage). Then you could narrow it down a bit to whether it is the battery or possibly the charge port/hardware..... I saw a bit of exposed wire just before the clip of mine too, made me extra careful pulling the clip up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't even know where to start with the wiring. Multimeter isn't something I have access to, and it seems a little complicated for me to spend time on.
When I say it's flashing, I mean the device powers on to the battery charging screen, then dies, wash rinse repeat. If I go into recovery, same thing. It all happens within a couple seconds, so it's hard to describe.
My dad has one that I can pull the battery from, I might do that. Batteries are like 20 bucks on amazon, so I think I'll test with my Dads and if it works just order a battery and report back here.
similar problem here
rmntruexjr said:
You might be right about the battery being dead, although they usually don't just go all at once like that. The charge indicator flashing is odd. The only thing close I've seen is an "x" over the icon when there aren't enough amps (my tab needs 2 amps. 1 amp chargers and some pc usb ports give me the x.
If you have an old cable you can cut, you could try to charge the battery itself to see if it takes a charge (or at least use a multimeter on it to check for voltage). Then you could narrow it down a bit to whether it is the battery or possibly the charge port/hardware..... I saw a bit of exposed wire just before the clip of mine too, made me extra careful pulling the clip up.
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Click to collapse
My daughters tab 3 7 inch T210 also refuses to start. First time it was fixed by opening the device and disconnecting the battery. Now that doesn't help anymore. If I attach the original charger and measure the voltage when the device has rested for some months I can see that the voltage slowly rises so it seems to do the charging even if there is no sign of charging on the screen. After some hours of charging I measure 3,78V on the battery, after disconnecting the battery.
If I attach the battery and turn on the device I measure 3,76V before I push the start button and 3,74V directly after pushing the button. After about 15s the voltage goes back to 3,76V. Nothing happens on the screen... Tried with different combinations of pushing on-button and volume up, volume down, menu....
So -the best thing would of course be a quick visit to local shop to buy a new device of another brand but for some reason I refuse to give up.
Any advice would be appreciated.
(I Have made no significant modifications but the 4-year old daughter may have contributed in an unknown way )
magnusn68 said:
My daughters tab 3 7 inch T210 also refuses to start.
So -the best thing would of course be a quick visit to local shop to buy a new device of another brand but for some reason I refuse to give up.
Any advice would be appreciated.
(I Have made no significant modifications but the 4-year old daughter may have contributed in an unknown way )
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Click to collapse
The better way to test if your tablet can turn on: buy a new battery, under $15 on Ebay since your old battery is dead or completely drained.
Use the new battery to turn on your tablet. If it's on, check the build number of your device after go to About My Device: if it's not end with OB1, the latest firmware which fix charging issue.
It's more likely your build number is MK1 to NI1, the build numbers count by alphabet order. Upgrade the software via Wifi, battery must be at least 25%, otherwise your tablet won't allow you to upgrade. Bring the firmware to the current OB1, your tablet should take charge normally, otherwise the USB charging port is defective or damaged. This micro USB is cheap, around $2, but it need to solder to motherboard to replace the defective one.
Hey guys, so this morning my OP3 was dead, so far nothing out of the ordinary, I figured it could be empty by now.
But it won't charge. Not on a power bank, not on the official charger, not on USB.
When a cable is plugged it turns on automatically, shows 50% battery charged symbol, before going black, no charging led on.
Sometimes it will post the low battery warning for a short moment before, with the charging led on, then proceeding as above.
My device is unlocked, so I have the usual 5-second boot menu, if I choose to restart, it won't boot, but always come back to this menu after the 5 seconds passed, I don't get until the boot animation.
The device is running LOS 15.1, Franco Kernel, newest Magisk, and TWRP. I tried getting into TWRP to let it charge there, but I don't get past the TWRP animation.
I do however get into fastboot and it will sit there without a problem.
I did open the device and measured the battery, it is somewhere around 3.5-3.6V, that leads me to believe it is in fact not empty and I have a different problem here. I thought they discharge at least down to 3.3V
EDIT: I discovered, that without a cable it will not even turn on, show low battery or anything. The battery connector seems ok and the battery measures 3.59V
Any suggestions? Thanks a lot already
Try this. https://forums.oneplus.com/threads/guide-mega-unbrick-guide-for-a-hard-bricked-oneplus-3.452634/
Hey man, thanks for the reply. You think this might be what i am looking for? A software issue? I mean i can get into fastboot on a cable. My concern is the phone not responding to a power button press without being connected to a cable at a half full battery. not a damaged power ic chip or something?
felixchris said:
Hey guys, so this morning my OP3 was dead, so far nothing out of the ordinary, I figured it could be empty by now.
But it won't charge. Not on a power bank, not on the official charger, not on USB.
When a cable is plugged it turns on automatically, shows 50% battery charged symbol, before going black, no charging led on.
Sometimes it will post the low battery warning for a short moment before, with the charging led on, then proceeding as above.
My device is unlocked, so I have the usual 5-second boot menu, if I choose to restart, it won't boot, but always come back to this menu after the 5 seconds passed, I don't get until the boot animation.
The device is running LOS 15.1, Franco Kernel, newest Magisk, and TWRP. I tried getting into TWRP to let it charge there, but I don't get past the TWRP animation.
I do however get into fastboot and it will sit there without a problem.
I did open the device and measured the battery, it is somewhere around 3.5-3.6V, that leads me to believe it is in fact not empty and I have a different problem here. I thought they discharge at least down to 3.3V
EDIT: I discovered, that without a cable it will not even turn on, show low battery or anything. The battery connector seems ok and the battery measures 3.59V
Any suggestions? Thanks a lot already
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i had the same problem a few months back.
Flashing helped me resolve this..although i has to reflash 2-3 times
Okay guys for everyone that has this problem in the future:
It is possible that your battery is not properly connected, check that first. The behavior basically suggests that your device believes it has no battery.
For me it turned out to be a blown chip that is related to Voltage Ampflification/Control. In the end I swapped mainboards with a smashed device from ebay. about 70€
There are 3 possible solutions for this issue.
1: replace battery.
2: change the ROM for one that changes the Kernel for a version without this temperature protection.
3: fix or replace the main board.
To fix the main board you need to check 2 things on it.
On the left side of the battery connector (under a double sided glue tape foam), there are some SMD. The lowest two are related with this problem. I fix my board resoldering the one on the right (nearest to the connector). Be aware that the SMD is small and when are desoldered, it gets sticked on the double sided glue tape foam. I took a picture of it, but i don't know how to insert here.
JUMP TO SOLUTION
Hi everyone,
My phone (almost 2 years old, changed LCD for three times) started to lose a lot of its battery capacity from a month ago, and since yesterday I realized something's wrong with it, as it had some trouble charging the battery. At first, I was using my phone and its battery was around 20%, and then as soon as I connected the charger (genuine fast charge) it turned off and the red LED indicator kept turning on and off and refused to charge. then after a reboot, it started charging again, and then I left it charging at the night and at the morning I realized it only charged to 60% and the red LED didn't turn on at all. And now that all the battery is drowned out it's not charging at all and drawing no current from the charger ([email protected]).
Has anyone had any experience with it before? Is this a battery problem or the USB charging port flex cable which has some ICs on it (example)?
I'd appreciate your answers.
I can't tell from your story that you tried another charger ? I recall a similar charging issue from my HTC One X a few years back.
Replaced the charger and all issues disappeared.
Mr Hofs said:
I can't tell from your story that you tried another charger ? I recall a similar charging issue from my HTC One X a few years back.
Replaced the charger and all issues disappeared.
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Click to collapse
Yes I have, Also seconds before it ran out completely I tried to check if adb works. connected it to my laptop and on the bootloader mode the adb recognized the device but the red LED didn't light up.
m.m.m said:
Yes I have, Also seconds before it ran out completely I tried to check if adb works. connected it to my laptop and on the bootloader mode the adb recognized the device but the red LED didn't light up.
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Click to collapse
That's correct because a device doesn't charge in bootloader mode. Only off state, running OS or Dr TWRP recovery.
If you tried a different charger it can be pretty much only down to hardware, can't give any advice at that level.
Mr Hofs said:
That's correct because a device doesn't charge in bootloader mode. Only off state, running OS or Dr TWRP recovery.
If you tried a different charger it can be pretty much only down to hardware, can't give any advice at that level.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oops, I meant recovery mode.
does the device charge in the stock recovery?
m.m.m said:
Oops, I meant recovery mode.
does the device charge in the stock recovery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm afraid not, only the custom one.
I had almost the same problem with my phone. I sent it to a repair center and acording to their report, the circuit which is responsible for the monitoring of the charging process had a loose connection. Maybe because I dropped the phone a few times. Unfortunatly the circuits of modern phones are all on the same circuit board, so they had to change the whole motherboard of the phone. But now everything works fine.
So I just opened the phone and disconnect/reconnected the battery connector and it eventually started charging with the stock charger, but it charged up to 60% and then stopped. retried the same steps and no luck this time. then I tried charging the battery with an external li-ion charger (I know it's a dangerous task )
this time it charged up to 4.11 volts and then I turned on the phone and again the battery dropped to 60%. so I believe the battery is really dead and needs replacement. I'll update you when I replace it.
KingGong said:
I had almost the same problem with my phone. I sent it to a repair center and acording to their report, the circuit which is responsible for the monitoring of the charging process had a loose connection. Maybe because I dropped the phone a few times. Unfortunatly the circuits of modern phones are all on the same circuit board, so they had to change the whole motherboard of the phone. But now everything works fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turns out I was wrong, my case was similar to yours. had to waste $9 on a battery to find out
it just fixed by disconnecting/reconnecting the USB connector bottom of the board, but I don't know how the flex cable for the back button got cut so now I have to replace the whole bottom circuit ($17 approx.) :crying:
m.m.m said:
Turns out I was wrong, my case was similar to yours. had to waste $9 on a battery to find out
it just fixed by disconnecting/reconnecting the USB connector bottom of the board, but I don't know how the flex cable for the back button got cut so now I have to replace the whole bottom circuit ($17 approx.) :crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I went through the hurdle of replacing my battery and charge port, and the battery transplant went well, went from 70% to 100% battery health (yay!).
The first charge port I purchased (this is all eBay stuff) had a busted Recents button (copper trace in ribbon cable was nicked - when the part was removed from original phone for sure), so I complained and got a replacement; second one works well.
And because all bad things come in threes, the phone developed an echo (on the opposite side of the conversation) which I think I caused by ripping a bit of the mic rubber isolator which points towards the mic hole in the battery cover.
I believe I fixed it (still testing) by glueing some foam padding on the backside of the mic (on the charge port PCB, facing the battery cover).
Long story short, opening up the phone is a b###h, so do multiple repairs together, be careful not to break anything else (easier said....).
Good luck, let us know how it went.
So here's an update, First of all, I'm pretty happy with the battery replacement, It can hold like 10 hours of my usage while the old one could handle up to 6-8 lately, it's unbranded, and I got it from a local phone part store.
Second, the replacement for the charger flex turned out to be pretty good quality, and I've had no problems with it so far. I got it for $11 from AliExpress, but now it's about $10.5. But when I replaced everything and tried to reassemble the phone and tighten the screws it showed up with charging problems again, and I tried disassemble/reassembling the phone and reconnecting the charger flex, and the next time it charged but with no fast charge, so in the next try I also tried cleaning the flex connector with cleaning alcohol, and for the third try it finally started charging with no problems.
So now after like 2 weeks, it's had no problems so far.