Develop Bugs

Asus P525 - Battery Level Indicator stuck to 71%

Hi,
I have recently purchased my P525 from Taiwan and after four months battery level indicator stuck at 71%.
I have reset it several times but no luck so far.
Also i have updated my ROM as well as Radio to the latest version from ASUS site..but no luck so far..
I have gone through different threads and seems people have fantastic knowledge about the WM5 and PDAs.
I cannot change the battery as I am in Mumbai, India and ASUS is very less popular here.
Please suggest some tweaks or some utility so that I can see the exact status of battery used..
Thanks a lot in advance.

deja vu
there is no solution for this.
the only way is to take it to asus ,because it the batterie problem(they will replace the batterie with new one if you have garentie).
i have asus p525 since 12.12.2006 and since 2 weeks i got the same problem ,batterie level stuck at 82% .i tried everything ,update the new firmware,hard,soft reset,even let the batterie die till 0% then charge again. but nothing helps.
i had another extra batterie so i put it in and everything work normal (so its for sure the batterie).
or buy new batterie or send it to asus.

Thanx for the quick reply...but as i stated I am not able to find the new battery here in Mumbai, India...so was thinking if some tweak can help me...
Will search for battery...
Anyone else faced the same problem...

shabbirali said:
Thanx for the quick reply...but as i stated I am not able to find the new battery here in Mumbai, India...so was thinking if some tweak can help me...
Will search for battery...
Anyone else faced the same problem...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can buy it from ebay like i did.

almost everyone have the asus p525 have the problem with the shipped battery.
i used to read the forum and say :i am lucky that my batterie is ok,until 2 weeks ago.(i knew thats coming at me).
anyway no tweak or program will help you m8.
don´t break your head searching for solution,i allready been searching and reading forums about pda`s and phone since 2 years ,and this problem is batterie hardware problem.
SO you have to live with your batterie 72% all the time ,till the phone dies.
or go search for other batterie.

Thanx.. for a good piece of advice.. I will search it in ebay if they can send a good battery....

It's a well known problem for P525 battery. My first one stuck at 100% after 9 month of use. I am using the 2nd one (free when I brought my P525) which doesn't have this problem
sx1-doc, what 4G mini-SD are you using for yr P525? I thought the max that P525 support is only 2G.
__________________________________________________
ASUS P525 ROM: Custom WWE v3.43.0 w/ Chinese support
Eten M600 ROM: Custom Hong Kong 230 w/ USB Host support
Dell Axim X51V ROM: Custom WWE A12

the 4 gb mini sd i bought on ebay normal mini sd (not hcsd).
i had some problems with it before couple of months (i thought it was corrupted ) but it works like a charm since 2 months.
some screenchots.
p.s(the batterie is the old batterie that stuck on 82% in pic 2,i use it one day full use, then i charge )

sx1-doc said:
the 4 gb mini sd i bought on ebay normal mini sd (not hcsd).
i had some problems with it before couple of months (i thought it was corrupted ) but it works like a charm since 2 months.
some screenchots.
p.s(the batterie is the old batterie that stuck on 82% in pic 2,i use it one day full use, then i charge )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any brand on it? Can you post a pic of yr miniSD? Thanks

add picture

Battery Level Indicator freezing problem is solved.
Dismount the battery by removing black film from both sides. Heat the "positive" contact attached to the controller by the copper (I mean soldering-iron) and lift it up.
You will see the elements on a plate. (See the picture attached in zip)
The red-marked place is empty. You are to put a capacitor there (any kind - for example 20-100 nF). I took the first one I found on the dead battery controller from MPx200.
That's it!
Solder the positive bus back to controller. Mount the battery (you should use some new tape to cover the body of a battery).
Enjoy.

Thanks Andrew,
But it seems to be a risk to do that..any suggestions.

There is another solution that does not require you to disassemble the battery, though you must be very careful and thorough with it.
Battery should be at moderate charge. Obviously you can not see the real charge value, but you can estimate it (ie do a full charge, and the use PDA for about half a time it normally lasts).
Then remove the battery from the PDA.
You will need a good external DC (not AC!!!) power supply that can provide about 12V DC at about 500-1000mA current (be sure - no more then 1000mA!). Slightly more or less voltage is fine. I myself did it with 15V 1000mA supply.
Connect power supply - to the battery - contact. Briefly connect power supply + to the battery + contact for about 2-3 seconds.
Connect power supply - to the battery + contact. BRIEFLY connect power supply + to the battery - contact (reverse polarity). MAKE SURE YOU WONT LEAVE IT CONNECTED FOR MORE THEN ABOUT 2 (two) SECONDS!. Sparks are normal, just dont connect it for long.
After that you can replace battery in the PDA. Indicator will show last "stuck" value, but dont be upset - it will not be stuck anymore. Start with full discharge immediately - you will see it will go down now.
Make sure you do full discharge first!
(Due to the battery "remembering" the initial stuck value instead of current true charge, if you will start charging it first, you may hit the situation when battery hits full charge voltage and overcharge switch kicks in before estimated capacity will be truly at 100%, and it can prevent you from reaching reported 100% forever.)
After full discharge, do a full recharge immediately (better with ASUS power supply, not via USB), and after that you should have fully functional & calibrated battery again.
I have just tried it myself on my stuck battery (ver. 1.2) and confirm that it works. At least 3 persons from asusmobile.ru confirmed that it works too. Just be sure you use the right external power supply and dont connect it for long.
Thanks to the GlazkovD from asusmobile.ru for providing this solution.

Btw, if you wonder about source of the problem, it seems to be not the "hung battery controller" contrary to the popular beleif, though the cause of the problem is truly the battery hardware. Hung battery controller results in "unknown charge" error on the PDA, and failure even to obtain the version of the battery (because all these values can not be reported by the frozen battery controller via the SMBus or whatever they do use).
This one is almost positive the voltage monitor/ADC entering the saturated state. So it stops reporting the current battery voltage to the controller - effectively preventing the capacity estimation algorithm from working (but controller is not frozen, it works, it just can not compute the charge anymore so its left at last known value).
Obviously this is a hardware design problem and its 100% can not be solved via any software patch or solution.
The saturated voltage monitoring circuit can be "unstuck" by several ways, thats why people reported various solutions:
- by disassembling the battery and briefly shortening the contacts AndrewSh outlined. Via resistor or capacitor, basically the same. Hovewer, I would not recommend to permanently solder anything there - most likely it will cause monitor circuit to slightly shift the reported voltages (since ver. 1.2 battery firmware was not designed with capacitor in mind) and may cause the improper LiIon cell handling (ie it will report 3.4V when true voltage is 3.2V - may cause a problems on the long run or reduced capacity).
- by disconnecting the LiIon cell from controller board for some time - this removes all power from it and effectively resets the monitoring circuit. Also can be achieved by briefly shortening the cell contacts (via a resistor only, to limit the current!!). Again, this mentions cell contacts, that you see only if you disassemble the battery package, not the external gold-plated contacts. Shortening the external gold-plated contacts will achieve nothing in most cases.
- by the "external shock therapy" outlined in the previous post. Slight and brief overvoltages/overcurrents are not enough to actually fry anything, but enough to kick the voltage monitoring circuit from its saturated state.
- also in some cases voltage monitor circuit can leave its saturated state on itself with time or with any other slight unpredictable stimulus. hovewer in most cases this wont happen.

Ingvarr way to fix that does not really matter. Additional capacitors or "shock-therapy" both work pretty well.
We discovered (see wce.by) already that some ver 1.2 controllers contain that capacitor. But have minor changes in chip types and versions. So sometimes is necessary to remove the existing capacitor depending on the controller type.
Anyway - one of mine works pretty well since April (with the capacitor mounted) without any issues (overheating, wrong charge level reports, reduced battery life and so on)

Actually it was never proven that capacitor is needed - only original circuit designers actually know that, and they are not talking . As you surely seen yourself, capacitor-containing boards are of slightly different design (that maybe actually takes capacitor into account). However both designs still subject to same issue - very slight chance that it will freeze the monitoring, with capacitor or not.
To solder the capacitor, you need to detach the battery from controller board - simply doing that and waiting for some time will already cause voltage monitor to reset and un-stuck (even if you will not solder the capacitor and not touch anything else and just solder the battery back).
Since this issue may not appear for many months even on "wrong" hardware, its very hard to say for certain wheither capacitor actually helps or not, or wheither the issue will ever appear on modified hardware again or not.
IMO its easier not to bother and just reset it with external PSU. Most likely it won't reappear in a months anyway, if reappear at all. I would advise against doing permanent hardware changes on the blind, when you dont exactly know what purpose they serve. Just to be on the safe side But its up to the personal preferences I guess

shock treatment is working perfectly
Dear All,
First of all thanks to Ingvarr and GlazkovD for the solution, I checked it and perfectly working . I used old alcatel mobile charger with 12v 500mA
thanks once again

Ingvarr said:
There is another solution that does not require you to disassemble the battery, though you must be very careful and thorough with it.
Battery should be at moderate charge. Obviously you can not see the real charge value, but you can estimate it (ie do a full charge, and the use PDA for about half a time it normally lasts).
Then remove the battery from the PDA.
You will need a good external DC (not AC!!!) power supply that can provide about 12V DC at about 500-1000mA current (be sure - no more then 1000mA!). Slightly more or less voltage is fine. I myself did it with 15V 1000mA supply.
Connect power supply - to the battery - contact. Briefly connect power supply + to the battery + contact for about 2-3 seconds.
Connect power supply - to the battery + contact. BRIEFLY connect power supply + to the battery - contact (reverse polarity). MAKE SURE YOU WONT LEAVE IT CONNECTED FOR MORE THEN ABOUT 2 (two) SECONDS!. Sparks are normal, just dont connect it for long.
After that you can replace battery in the PDA. Indicator will show last "stuck" value, but dont be upset - it will not be stuck anymore. Start with full discharge immediately - you will see it will go down now.
Make sure you do full discharge first!
(Due to the battery "remembering" the initial stuck value instead of current true charge, if you will start charging it first, you may hit the situation when battery hits full charge voltage and overcharge switch kicks in before estimated capacity will be truly at 100%, and it can prevent you from reaching reported 100% forever.)
After full discharge, do a full recharge immediately (better with ASUS power supply, not via USB), and after that you should have fully functional & calibrated battery again.
I have just tried it myself on my stuck battery (ver. 1.2) and confirm that it works. At least 3 persons from asusmobile.ru confirmed that it works too. Just be sure you use the right external power supply and dont connect it for long.
Thanks to the GlazkovD from asusmobile.ru for providing this solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Outstanding !!
This solution really worked on my battery. Mine was stucked at 100%. I used a 12V 500mah charger for this.
After the "electric chair" treatment the battery is working like new. Actually, I have the phone in use for two days with no need of recharge at all.
Thanks a lot !!

Dead Battery potential issue

Today was the first time I let my phone's battery drain down to nothing and it died completely while i was on a phone call. But when it died, the screen went black as it should, but it refused to charge. The light didnt come on and it wouldnt power on. I had to pull the battery and then it booted to a 'critically low battery' notification on the screen. Has anyone experienced this kind of freezing when the battery is just on the verge of dying?

I don't have this specific issue, but definitely power draining problems on my Focus. I let it charge overnight - 10+ hours plugged in. That should be more than enough for a nice, full charge. Well it's been unplugged from the charger for a little over 3 hours now and it's already down 30%. All I did was listen to 4 songs on the Zune on the way to the office this morning.
Same thing happened yesterday. So two days in a row isn't looking good. By early afternoon yesterday it was almost drained.
I haven't even made any phone calls with this yet! I can only imagine what a handful of 30 minute phone calls would do.

hmm... faulty battery/phone? maybe take it back to the store and ask for an exchange?

Is there any way to calibrate the battery? Such as completely drain it, fully charge it then look around the settings menu for a way to delete any kind of battery stats file?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

I was thinking the same thing, about exchanging it. I'm going to give it more time and really put it through some paces to verify. I've got until the end of November to exchange it.
This was all without any Wifi on too

I've noticed my LG-C900 also seems like a battery hog, and takes forever to charge. The Samsung SGH-i917 is a little better, but both of them have a tendency to run out of battery quickly if I forget to charge them overnight. It's a little worrisome to me.
I don't measure smartphone battery length systematically, but my Motorola Droid seems to do a lot better, and my HTC G1 has gone all week without being charged (although the graphics aren't nearly as good, the processor doesn't have to work as hard even to change menus).
On the other hand, the advantage is in both of those phones, it is much easier to change batteries, making it possible to carry an extra battery and switch halfway through the day, something you could never do with an iphone.

The Gate Keeper said:
hmm... faulty battery/phone? maybe take it back to the store and ask for an exchange?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would probably be a good idea.

you could look at the wifi status , turn it off when you don't need it .
wifi is "on" as default , if I don't turn it off my batt is dying really quick .
I didn't look at it but maybe you can also turn off the GPS .

The first Focus I got shipped from AT&T refused to take a charge. You could plug it in and the icon would change to a plug, but it wouldn't charge up at all. I replaced it at a store and the new one is perfect. Charges quickly and lasts much longer than my old Fuze. I don't know if it was the phone or the battery, but I'd just get a replacement.

For some reason my HD7 won't charge from PC USB ports-- it's been "critically low" in the morning the two times I left it plugged into a PC overnight (orange light on, but apparently not charging quickly enough).
The ports work fine charging my HD2 and iPhones-- apparently not with the HD7 though. Only dedicated AC adapters feeding a full 1A have worked so far-- not hugely inconvenient, but kind of odd.

my G1 and HD2 would exibit this behavior when on my car's USB port when the charge was low enough, and the last system update that came down for the G1 would just slow the drain when attached to my car.
The first trip with the HD7 in the car > home, it died on the car's USB port, very slowly. After its first full charge it does accept a charge from the car. I think it may have issues once it gets low enough just like the HD2. I think it may be the output, I don't remember how much power Honda supplies at the USB port, but obviously not enough for all devices. All my ports on my laptop, desktop and WHS, except the front ports on the WHS and the desktop, charge these 3 devices handily, the front ports on the home server and the desktop must only provide minimal power, I've had USB sticks complain and drop speed on these.

[Q] Charging Problems with GN I9250-XXLFA

Hello,
I bought a GN, I9250, European model, made in China 4 days back from a vendor online.
I am having problems charging the phone.
When PHONE is ON
1. When plugged into the included charger/cable, the battery status shows CHARGING (AC) for a few minutes and then changed to NOT CHARGING. Removing the USB plug or switching off the mains and restarting in a minute takes the status back to CHARGING (AC) but again for a few minutes.
2. Tried with multiple chargers and cables with exactly the same results
3. When the phone is connected to USB port in laptop, the charging happens, for a longer duration. The laptop also detects the phone immediately and I can access files etc. After say 20-30 minutes odd the status again goes to NOT CHARGING. However, while the phone is not charging, I can still access files on the phone. This implies the USB connectivity is still perfect, only the charging has stopped.
4. Under no circumstances does the charge go beyond 50% odd, irrespective of the duration of charging
When PHONE is OFF
1. The phone shows the battery icon with bolt for a few seconds and then shuts off. If I click the power button briefly I can see the battery charging icon.
2. I kept the phone in charging with the wall adapter all night, and got 49% charge only, starting from about 10% when put to charge.
The battery indicator graph shows the phone is has never hit a charge level above 65% types.
I have not seen the other charging issue of the phone showing a bolt in the battery icon even if the phone is not plugged in ! (thank god!!!)
I bought it "as new" condition, and performed a factory reset immediately on receiving the phone. So its running stock applications, with almost everything except voice and 2g data on. No applications except Whatsapp are running.
All other aspects of functionality are working well.
I have read hundreds of posts across the web and am not sure what the problem could be with my phone. I am in India and since the phone was bought off the net, its unlikely that it will be provided warranty etc here. In fact I'm not even sure if there will be servicing competency in the technicians here.
I have tried to puch the micro USB tongue by pushing it upwards gently, but cannot really say whether or not it did bend or i was just too fearful. Have tried removing battery etc and all other soft methods written everywhere.
Any help ???

maybe a screwed battery ?

-Jesco- said:
maybe a screwed battery ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
I do suspect it myself, but I don't know how to verify this. Can any other Samsung phone battery be put in the phone or is the phone compatible only with this one? Getting another battery is not possible in the near future since this is not available in India...
Any thoughts on how to check this?

ketu269 said:
Hello,
I do suspect it myself, but I don't know how to verify this. Can any other Samsung phone battery be put in the phone or is the phone compatible only with this one? Getting another battery is not possible in the near future since this is not available in India...
Any thoughts on how to check this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem, but it's not the battery's fault. My brother also has a GNex, and I tried charging my phone with his battery, and vice-versa, without any luck. I think it's the USB port's fault. Something about power not getting to the phone correctly. Luckily I bought it at a store here. I talked to the owner, and I'm going to exchange it for a new one tomorrow.

edinchez said:
I have the same problem, but it's not the battery's fault. My brother also has a GNex, and I tried charging my phone with his battery, and vice-versa, without any luck. I think it's the USB port's fault. Something about power not getting to the phone correctly. Luckily I bought it at a store here. I talked to the owner, and I'm going to exchange it for a new one tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
I found another GN and did this experiment.
1. When I plugged in my battery which was showing 53% on my phone into the other phone it showed 79%.
2. When I charged the other GN with my battery inside, it charged to 100%
3. When I put my battery back into my phone, it showed 67%
4. When I put in the other GN battery into my phone it showed 49%, while it was showing 82% in the other GN.
5. I was able to charge this other battery in my phone to 60%.
6. When I put it back into the other GN it showed 94% charge.
Apparently my battery seems to be ok. Also, it seems that my phone is charging ok too. But there may be a problem with the phone detecting the battery level !!
Any thoughts?

Hello,
i have exact the same problem. I tried 3 batteries a lot of chargers and i changed the Charging Port Flex Cable.
This all without success
The Problem is, sometimes it charge to 50%, the most it charge to 75% and one time i get it to 81% yeah
So does it give any help for this Problem ?
Goofy

goofy_79 said:
Hello,
i have exact the same problem. I tried 3 batteries a lot of chargers and i changed the Charging Port Flex Cable.
This all without success
The Problem is, sometimes it charge to 50%, the most it charge to 75% and one time i get it to 81% yeah
So does it give any help for this Problem ?
Goofy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
some battery got data issues where phone cant recognize the exact capacity. try check *#*#4636#*#* your capacity of ****mah should be correctly read by phone here. if not, change your battery immediately bcoz big issues will coming up

here the screenshots .. first i plug out and in the power plug ...
and a few minutes later it stop charging
But the Phone see is connected to the AC ??
memaro_maro said:
some battery got data issues where phone cant recognize the exact capacity. try check *#*#4636#*#* your capacity of ****mah should be correctly read by phone here. if not, change your battery immediately bcoz big issues will coming up
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

goofy_79 said:
here the screenshots .. first i plug out and in the power plug ...
and a few minutes later it stop charging
But the Phone see is connected to the AC ??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
your battery got data detected.. maybe this 3800mah extended battery was totally crap.
give 2-3 day period. charge wt ac plug & usb charging method. see if got any different between this 2 merhod. if not, try buy the good replacement before your emmc fried.
* maybe u should ask to another forum.. gnex accessories /batteries. they must be got some experiences wt this type of extended batteries. maybe.??

Xperia Play red light

Hi,
yesterday I bought a used R800i, the seller said I just need to charge the Battery. So back at home i plugged it to a charger an the LED near the power button startet blinking. First I thought it´s not a big deal but after a couple of hours it was clear that this is not alrigt. Even if i remove the battery the red light keeps blinking continuous (not 3 times or something similar, just every second once). I don´t know if it´s a software or hardware bug but could you help me to get it fixed?
best Regards
Lukas

It could be empty battery (but voltage level is not high enough to start charging).
Check with flashtool can you enter flash mode or fastboot mode (if you can, then it's probably empty battery)
If you can, check voltage level of battery with voltmeter.
It can be that motherboard is dead, but to be sure, you must know what is voltage level of battery.
For now, try leaving it charging, it might take some time (few hours or more) to actually start charging...
Sent from my R800i using XDA Free mobile app

Over USB i only get unkown device, but USB with the Test Point works, measuring the Batter was 0 Volts but charging over hours didn´t help

Lukas94 said:
Over USB i only get unkown device, but USB with the Test Point works, measuring the Batter was 0 Volts but charging over hours didn´t help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If battery have 0 volts then it's dead and (most likely) can't be charged anymore. You need new battery, so you can know is motherboard is working or not.
But that is just my opinion, and i could be wrong...
Maybe to try and charge battery from external source of 5V power , easiest way is cut some usb cable or take two wires from PC's molex connector (red is +5V, black is GND) and charge it for shortly (about 30sec-1min) and measure does it have at least 3.2V. Repeat short charging untill it does. If it stay on 0V then is dead for sure.

I was really able to charge the battery over a cut USB cable. I got it to boot until lookscreen (digitizer does not response) but then the battery turned hot and the Xperia shut down. I ordered now a new battery then it should work again

Lukas94 said:
I was really able to charge the battery over a cut USB cable. I got it to boot until lookscreen (digitizer does not response) but then the battery turned hot and the Xperia shut down. I ordered now a new battery then it should work again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Digitizer not working could be faulty slider-flex cable or simply software error due overheating. You'll know with new battery...

Flex Cable looks like this, should I get a new one?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mixy0lczvb3hb3c/IMG_20140912_201712.jpg?dl=0

Lukas94 said:
Flex Cable looks like this, should I get a new one?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mixy0lczvb3hb3c/IMG_20140912_201712.jpg?dl=0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that's slider flex cable.
But wait untill you get new battery. Then you'll know does it have more problems or it is working normally

Sad News, today I got the new battery and i was even able to boot up the phone, but like the last time i was able to boot it up the battery and the mainboard got hot. I think the loading circuit is broken. So there are two options 1. buy a external charger for the batterie or 2. sell the phone as rarely used on ebay
No really I´m selling it, even if i get a charger theres also the problem with the not working digitzer. Thanks for your Help but this is ways to big for me.
Regards Lukas

Lukas94 said:
Sad News, today I got the new battery and i was even able to boot up the phone, but like the last time i was able to boot it up the battery and the mainboard got hot. I think the loading circuit is broken. So there are two options 1. buy a external charger for the batterie or 2. sell the phone as rarely used on ebay
No really I´m selling it, even if i get a charger theres also the problem with the not working digitzer. Thanks for your Help but this is ways to big for me.
Regards Lukas
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry to hear that. Obviously problem is much bigger and hard to tell what is wrong without some proffesional look into it (lot of reasons for phone to get hot by itself - there is short circuit somewhere and that's why it's draing battery fast and causing overheating). I don't think external charger will solve problems.
Anyway, good luck :good:

Battery holds charge, but phone restarts when not in a charger. More details inside.

Hey,
My LG G3 battery's holding a charge seemingly well, but it isn't able to power the phone anymore, for some reason. Off the phone, I've managed to have six common DC motors and 12 High Intensity SMD LED's running for two days, to test the battery capacity, and it managed this feat with 30% battery remaining. It seems OK by me.
But after plugging a single high power DC engine, the battery kinda "shuts down", like it tripped a breaker or something, and only turns on again after I remove the connected device. Several other batteries I own (notably many Nokia BL-5C, originals and knock-offs) are able to hold the high power DC motor flawlessly. Using an amperimeter to hit the terminals, it briefly shows 1.1A before "turning off", while other batteries just keep powered, showing 1.4A, 1.5A on the display.
On the phone, I think that when it tries to pull a high load from the battery, the battery turns off and the phone resets. On a charger, though, it is able to run indefinitely. If I disconnect the charger and don't touch the phone, with the screen on, it'll most likely keep on, until a notification arrives, or when I touch the screen (probably the touch boost that draws energy)
The battery isn't stuffed (i.e. "fat"), looks healthy visually and it seems to hold a charge pretty well, so I don't think it's internally shorted... right? What's possibly wrong with it?
P.S.: I've already ordered two new batteries.

ilmec PM'd me, as he cannot post yet.
ilmec said:
I can't reply on the tread you open so I send you a PM
I have the same problem. The phone works only with the USB cable pluged in. Without the cable, the phone goes out to the first notification. Problem starts with the 23/12 CM13 and the 26/12 the phone turn off. I try with the solution in the CM13 tread but nothing works. Stores tell me that it is a hardware problem and not the battery. Service centers are closed until the end of the holidays. I will buy a new battery but I think it is not the solution.
Please let me know if a new battery is the solution to the problem.
Sorry for my bad english...
PS: i post the link for the CM13 tread with the guide that I tried to use thinking in a hard brick
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=64531740&postcount=1041
http://open-freax.fr/guide-unbrick-your-lg-g3/
http://forum.xda-developers.com/sprint-lg-g3/general/guide-fix-hard-brick-recovery-guide-t3132359
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interestingly enough, it happened after a freeze and discharge overnight on CM13.
I do think it's the battery, though, because it also does that in TWRP, and my tests on the battery itself showed a weird pattern of sudden shutdown on heavy power consumption. Perhaps CM13's freeze contributed in damaging the battery, but I think the remaining of the hardware is in good shape. Mine would die on the first notification if sound is enabled, because it'd die just milliseconds after starting playing the notification sound, or just at random after I remove the power cable. I'm 98% sure it's the battery, at least in my case. I've managed to access TWRP, backup CM13, wipe the system and install the new LG Marshmallow ROM, all by using the charger cable. I've managed to boot up on the ROM, set it up and restore my Titanium Backup.
From my experience, stores always lies about "shorts" in the phone motherboard. It's a inexplicable excuse that most of the customers bite. I've had a friend taht was told his "wifi card" from his G3 had "busted", and it needed a "replacement" of the "wifi module only". As you know, the wifi module is integrated in the Snapdragon 801, so that'd be impossible if not replacing the entire SoC. He asked for my help, but I couldn't reach him. Most likely a hard reset and reflash of a stock KDZ would fix his issue, but he had to take it to a "professional", which asked for a good amount of money for "fixing" it. Probably they just did what I suggested, and took his money after a lame excuse.
I could be wrong, too. Although both our phones had similar issues after 12/23 CM13's, my case can be different than yours. One thing that I was willing to try was to rig another battery (like I said, I have many from different models) to the probably damaged LG G3 battery, to see if it holds the phone. Unfortunately, just connecting a different battery to the G3 will show a "?" mark on the screen, similar to that when you plug it in without a battery. Rigging it with the stock battery would fool the phone thinking the battery is original and is running fine, but unfortunately I cannot reach the terminals safely when the battery's connected. I'd rather just wait for the new batteries to come.
Can I post your PM to the thread? It seems very pertinent.
Thanks

I have seen batteries do all kinds of stuff. Most deff hold nominal operating voltages not just on phones but all things theyll hold nominal voltage but the actuall amperage to drive whatever isnt there. Not like a dead cell where forsay a 12 volt car batt has 6 cells 3 pos 3 neg each cell a. 2 volts per cell equalling 12 volts 1 cells bad 10 volts. Now back to even though u tested the batt i would still try a cheap bat and see the g3s are real finicky on batts normally i dont recomend a cheap batt or the bigger batts i always use the oem bat