I wish my HTC Sprint Mogul's hardware (i.e., the battery place) could be rewired so that I could plug in my PDA to an outside source and be able to turn on my phone without the battery. This way I could use the device as an ad-hoc using WMWifirouter or a navigation system for as long as I need to without damaging or overheating the battery.
Does anyone have any idea whether a fake battery that just has the same physical dimensions, resistance, output voltage, and amperage as the original battery can be made or obtained and used to turn on HTC devices (like my Sprint Mogul TyTnII PPC6800 wm6.1) using external power without having the original battery in? This inability to keep the device on external power without the battery in its place is common to all HTC devices. If a solution is found, it would allow us to utilize power consuming programs like WMWifirouter and use the device as a complete navigation device for long trips.
When I go on long trips and want to have the Sprint navigation system on the whole time, the battery either runs out or overheats from being charged by the car charger. Subsequently the device turns off. How annoying! Hope someone can help. Thank you.
This is actually a decent request and wouldn't mind a solution.
Laptops don't need the battery in to work via AC/DC. Would be great if HTC would wire these devices so as to behave without the dependency of the battery all the time.
i wouldn't agree more... htc only works with batery inserted, and i would like too take it off and work with just the adapter
Get an after market battery?
shahriar5252 said:
When I go on long trips and want to have the Sprint navigation system on the whole time, the battery either runs out or overheats from being charged by the car charger. Subsequently the device turns off. How annoying! Hope someone can help. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once the battery is fully charged the charging stops. The device is going to get hot from just being on and communication with sprint for the navigation regardless of the battery.
shahriar5252 said:
I wish my HTC Sprint Mogul's hardware (i.e., the battery place) could be rewired so that I could plug in my PDA to an outside source and be able to turn on my phone without the battery. This way I could use the device as an ad-hoc using WMWifirouter or a navigation system for as long as I need to without damaging or overheating the battery.
Does anyone have any idea whether a fake battery that just has the same physical dimensions, resistance, output voltage, and amperage as the original battery can be made or obtained and used to turn on HTC devices (like my Sprint Mogul TyTnII PPC6800 wm6.1) using external power without having the original battery in? This inability to keep the device on external power without the battery in its place is common to all HTC devices. If a solution is found, it would allow us to utilize power consuming programs like WMWifirouter and use the device as a complete navigation device for long trips.
When I go on long trips and want to have the Sprint navigation system on the whole time, the battery either runs out or overheats from being charged by the car charger. Subsequently the device turns off. How annoying! Hope someone can help. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
for once my troubleshooting of my old htc universal will help. I found when I kept my finger across the battery terminals I could run the htc universal indefinatly off just the mais adapter. this suggests that if you took an old battery and usde some VERY high resistance to the sense pins coming from the main positive battery terminal you could fool it into thinking there's a battery present. and in theory use only an external power supply. I wouldsuggest starting with an original battey or a compatable 3rd party battery that is no longer usable then gut it out and connect the mains adapter. from there use a high value variable resistor to simulate what I did as the resistance of skin would be very high. it will not give you a battery level and will most likely give the red light saying battery charging failure but at least you get to use no battery.if it works then your good to go. another theory but would be valid for temp sensor on battery is to hook a very weelfiltered dc source to the battery cell terminals of the tiny circuit board you'll find inside the battery. and give it a very clean and regulater soure of dc. then it'll always show a full battery but if the temp sensor on the circuit board gets hot due to wireless chipset use then your back to my first idea.good luck and hope it works out
Forgot to mention that I would be careful using this in your car with the power directly on the battery terminals. I doubt the circuit board regulates the battery power, since the battery should provide clean power. Most car chargers are crude at the voltage regulation. When you start the car you might see a spike or sag. Just something to think about.
~~Tito~~ said:
Get an after market battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Tito:
No, not an after-market battery. The idea is to be able to work with HTC devices using only external power without the battery being in the device. As of now, all HTC PDAs require the battery to be in the device to turn on even when you are using external power to power up the device. The wiring of all HTC PDAs allow an external power supply to function in only recharging the battery--not powering up the device. The wiring of HTC PDAs require that only the battery be able to power up the device. The problem is when you are trying to use the device for a long time for applications such as navigation system, the act of using the battery to keep the device on and recharging it at the same time will heat up the battery, and the device turns off. I am asking the community whether anyone has a suggestion about how to modify the device to enable an external power supply to turn on the device directly with out the battery being in the device. Please re-read my original power that started this thread for more info. Thank you.
cyberjak said:
for once my troubleshooting of my old htc universal will help. I found when I kept my finger across the battery terminals I could run the htc universal indefinatly off just the mais adapter. this suggests that if you took an old battery and usde some VERY high resistance to the sense pins coming from the main positive battery terminal you could fool it into thinking there's a battery present. and in theory use only an external power supply. I wouldsuggest starting with an original battey or a compatable 3rd party battery that is no longer usable then gut it out and connect the mains adapter. from there use a high value variable resistor to simulate what I did as the resistance of skin would be very high. it will not give you a battery level and will most likely give the red light saying battery charging failure but at least you get to use no battery.if it works then your good to go. another theory but would be valid for temp sensor on battery is to hook a very weelfiltered dc source to the battery cell terminals of the tiny circuit board you'll find inside the battery. and give it a very clean and regulater soure of dc. then it'll always show a full battery but if the temp sensor on the circuit board gets hot due to wireless chipset use then your back to my first idea.good luck and hope it works out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From my understanding batteries should have low internal resistance, so I don't see how hooking up a resistor will help here. Do you know whether HTC has a chip in its batteries so that the device could only recognize its batteries and thereby exclude after-market batteries? A recognition chip in the battery could explain why my device will not turn on even when I connect together all the battery prongs on my Spring Mogul (PPC6800) and the red no-battery light goes away. If there is a chip in the battery, is there a way to harvest its program and put it on a blank chip and connect it to the device battery holder's prongs to turn on the devise? Thanks for your suggestions.
rsw686 said:
Forgot to mention that I would be careful using this in your car with the power directly on the battery terminals. I doubt the circuit board regulates the battery power, since the battery should provide clean power. Most car chargers are crude at the voltage regulation. When you start the car you might see a spike or sag. Just something to think about.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The car charger that I have is a Motorola and has a fuse in it to break circuit in case of a power surge. I think we just need to find a way to power up the device without needing the battery. Any other suggestions? Thank you.
cyberjak said:
for once my troubleshooting of my old htc universal will help. I found when I kept my finger across the battery terminals I could run the htc universal indefinatly off just the mais adapter. this suggests that if you took an old battery and usde some VERY high resistance to the sense pins coming from the main positive battery terminal you could fool it into thinking there's a battery present. and in theory use only an external power supply. I wouldsuggest starting with an original battey or a compatable 3rd party battery that is no longer usable then gut it out and connect the mains adapter. from there use a high value variable resistor to simulate what I did as the resistance of skin would be very high. it will not give you a battery level and will most likely give the red light saying battery charging failure but at least you get to use no battery.if it works then your good to go. another theory but would be valid for temp sensor on battery is to hook a very weelfiltered dc source to the battery cell terminals of the tiny circuit board you'll find inside the battery. and give it a very clean and regulater soure of dc. then it'll always show a full battery but if the temp sensor on the circuit board gets hot due to wireless chipset use then your back to my first idea.good luck and hope it works out
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These suggestion will not work because I think HTC batteries have a chip in them to stop excess recharging. Therefore the device needs to recognize the battery chip's permission to turn on itself. See my next post for how the recharging works on Sprint Mogul (HTC PPC6800).
I would appreciate any other suggestions.
~~Tito~~ said:
Get an after market battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I want to be able to use the HTC device using an external power supply without the battery in the device.
Possible solution using a new cooked up ROM:
My Sprint Mogul (HTC PPC6800) has an LED that turns orange when I plug in the device for recharging, and the battery normally gets warmed up as the battery is being recharged. The orange LED will turn green once the battery is fully charged, and then the battery cools. Once the LED is green and the device is still plugged in to an external power supply, the fully recharged battery remains cool even if it is being used for intensive applications. From this observation, I am guessing that HTC batteries or the device itself must have a chip in them that sense the amount of charge in the battery and shup down further recharging of the battery so as to prevent overcharging the battery.
If so, can someone find out how a new ROM can be cooked up to trick the device or the battery into thinking that the battery is fully charged and thereby prevent the battery from being charged when the owner wants to use the device on external power without recharging the battery?
Of course, this must be a reversible thing to do.
I did this last year, but haven't put much time into perfecting it
I got mine to work by soldering the -/+ ends of a usb cable to the +/- leads where the battery connects on my HTC Wizard, though I haven't perfected it yet, I post some pics when I can, I also had it running on 3 AAA batteries, using the same method but connecting it to a 3x AAA battery case from radioshack, I'm no technician, so I'm winging it a bit, but I think I may need to use a resister or something cuz the battery is 3.7v and usb is 5v so I don't know how safe it is but it works. Any constructive input/advice is appreciated
curiousandroid said:
I got mine to work by soldering the -/+ ends of a usb cable to the +/- leads where the battery connects on my HTC Wizard, though I haven't perfected it yet, I post some pics when I can, I also had it running on 3 AAA batteries, using the same method but connecting it to a 3x AAA battery case from radioshack, I'm no technician, so I'm winging it a bit, but I think I may need to use a resister or something cuz the battery is 3.7v and usb is 5v so I don't know how safe it is but it works. Any constructive input/advice is appreciated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know how you did the soldering of the connections because when I hooked them using wires, it did not work. A red LED would come on and the phone would not turn on. So go ahead and post your pictures to see what you did. Thanks.
Here's my working design
You will need torx wrenches to get the device open, Lowes sells a great mini torx screwdriver that holds several small attachments with different torx sizes in the handle for about $5 USD (and it's made of metal not plastic so it'll last!) I should also mention that i use rechargeable batteries in battery packs so if you try that method with the usb, you may want to use rechargeable NiMH or non-Rechargeable Lithium AAA's since they have a slightly higher voltage than regular batteries. I used a fast drying epoxy to better secure and protect the soldiered ends. I drilled holes through the battery cover and the plastic shell and added a small screw to secure the battery door, I drilled another hole in the battery door for the cord to come out through and tied a knot in it so that if the cord got yanked, the battery door would keep the cord from ripping off the board inside. It seems to run best @3.7v like it original lithium battery, but it will run at 5v but it gets hot if it's on too long.
CuriousAndroid
[email protected]
Here's my working design
Also, be sure to only attach to the left and right battery lead dont let the +\- wires touch any of the other battery leads, a good way to this if u want to test it 1st is to use alligator clips to connect +\- wires and use a small square of electrical tape to cover the other 4 leads.
VERY IMPORTANT: You need to use a USB 1.0 Cord, USB 2.0 voltage is too high, that maybe why you got the RED LED
CuriousAndroid
[email protected]
curiousandroid said:
You will need torx wrenches to get the device open, Lowes sells a great mini torx screwdriver that holds several small attachments with different torx sizes in the handle for about $5 USD (and it's made of metal not plastic so it'll last!) I should also mention that i use rechargeable batteries in battery packs so if you try that method with the usb, you may want to use rechargeable NiMH or non-Rechargeable Lithium AAA's since they have a slightly higher voltage than regular batteries. I used a fast drying epoxy to better secure and protect the soldiered ends. I drilled holes through the battery cover and the plastic shell and added a small screw to secure the battery door, I drilled another hole in the battery door for the cord to come out through and tied a knot in it so that if the cord got yanked, the battery door would keep the cord from ripping off the board inside. It seems to run best @3.7v like it original lithium battery, but it will run at 5v but it gets hot if it's on too long.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
curiousandroid said:
Also, be sure to only attach to the left and right battery lead dont let the +\- wires touch any of the other battery leads, a good way to this if u want to test it 1st is to use alligator clips to connect +\- wires and use a small square of electrical tape to cover the other 4 leads.
VERY IMPORTANT: You need to use a USB 1.0 Cord, USB 2.0 voltage is too high, that maybe why you got the RED LED
CuriousAndroid
[email protected]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply. The pictures that you attached are too small to see what is connected to what. From what I understand, you are trying to use NiMH rechargeable batteries of non-rechargeable AAA batteries in place of the original battery. How do you fit AAA batteries in there? What exactly did you soldier to what? A schematic hand diagram would be nice in addition to zoomed-in photos.
I was more thinking of buying another battery for the phone from ebay for about $10 and taking its gut out and putting resistors inside the battery so that the batteries voltage would be the same. This way, if I want to make long travels in my car with Sprint Navigation on the whole time, the battery would continually get power from the car charger and put out the same voltage for the PDA device.
I am worried about the original battery having a device-recognition chip in it to regulate the charging of the battery or stopping the charging if the battery gets too hot. From what you are describing, the battery does not seem to have an internal chip that can regulate battery activity or turn off the device when the battery gets too hot. I hope this is the case of my new Sprint/HTC Touch Pro (I used to have a Sprint/HTC Mogul).
It would be nice to get a 2nd battery from ebay, take out its gut, and fit small resistors there, and render it as a "fake" battery. This way, I will be able to swap the real battery with the fake one whenever I have to use Navigation system in my car. And by attaching the car charger to the device's USB, I can power up the device through the fake battery without having to worry about battery drainage or turning off of the device from recharging and using the battery at the same time. Do you have any suggestions on how to do this or have you tried to do this yourself?
sorry about the pic, the forum wouldnt let me upload full sized version, i'll try to us a link instead and put it on photobucket.
I think the regulatory chip for lithium batteries is normally stored in the battery pack itself, you cant see it unless you peel off the plastic layer on the outside of the battery, also inside the pack you will find a couple of generic lithium cells, that can be replaced with same voltage/size cells from many other pda/phone battery packs, though it does require a bit of careful soldiering the cells to the regulatory chip and battery harness. BTW "AAA" batteries don't actually fit in the device, but i plugged them in via usb battery pack to the usb plug i soldiered into the device. I suppose it may be possible to fit 3 "AAAA" batteries in the device since they are thinner, but they probably wouldn't last too long between charges.
the reg chip probably connects through the middle 4 prongs that I don't use [+||||-]
Related
Hi,
I have recently purchased my P525 from Taiwan and after four months battery level indicator stuck at 71%.
I have reset it several times but no luck so far.
Also i have updated my ROM as well as Radio to the latest version from ASUS site..but no luck so far..
I have gone through different threads and seems people have fantastic knowledge about the WM5 and PDAs.
I cannot change the battery as I am in Mumbai, India and ASUS is very less popular here.
Please suggest some tweaks or some utility so that I can see the exact status of battery used..
Thanks a lot in advance.
deja vu
there is no solution for this.
the only way is to take it to asus ,because it the batterie problem(they will replace the batterie with new one if you have garentie).
i have asus p525 since 12.12.2006 and since 2 weeks i got the same problem ,batterie level stuck at 82% .i tried everything ,update the new firmware,hard,soft reset,even let the batterie die till 0% then charge again. but nothing helps.
i had another extra batterie so i put it in and everything work normal (so its for sure the batterie).
or buy new batterie or send it to asus.
Thanx for the quick reply...but as i stated I am not able to find the new battery here in Mumbai, India...so was thinking if some tweak can help me...
Will search for battery...
Anyone else faced the same problem...
shabbirali said:
Thanx for the quick reply...but as i stated I am not able to find the new battery here in Mumbai, India...so was thinking if some tweak can help me...
Will search for battery...
Anyone else faced the same problem...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can buy it from ebay like i did.
almost everyone have the asus p525 have the problem with the shipped battery.
i used to read the forum and say :i am lucky that my batterie is ok,until 2 weeks ago.(i knew thats coming at me).
anyway no tweak or program will help you m8.
don´t break your head searching for solution,i allready been searching and reading forums about pda`s and phone since 2 years ,and this problem is batterie hardware problem.
SO you have to live with your batterie 72% all the time ,till the phone dies.
or go search for other batterie.
Thanx.. for a good piece of advice.. I will search it in ebay if they can send a good battery....
It's a well known problem for P525 battery. My first one stuck at 100% after 9 month of use. I am using the 2nd one (free when I brought my P525) which doesn't have this problem
sx1-doc, what 4G mini-SD are you using for yr P525? I thought the max that P525 support is only 2G.
__________________________________________________
ASUS P525 ROM: Custom WWE v3.43.0 w/ Chinese support
Eten M600 ROM: Custom Hong Kong 230 w/ USB Host support
Dell Axim X51V ROM: Custom WWE A12
the 4 gb mini sd i bought on ebay normal mini sd (not hcsd).
i had some problems with it before couple of months (i thought it was corrupted ) but it works like a charm since 2 months.
some screenchots.
p.s(the batterie is the old batterie that stuck on 82% in pic 2,i use it one day full use, then i charge )
sx1-doc said:
the 4 gb mini sd i bought on ebay normal mini sd (not hcsd).
i had some problems with it before couple of months (i thought it was corrupted ) but it works like a charm since 2 months.
some screenchots.
p.s(the batterie is the old batterie that stuck on 82% in pic 2,i use it one day full use, then i charge )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any brand on it? Can you post a pic of yr miniSD? Thanks
add picture
Battery Level Indicator freezing problem is solved.
Dismount the battery by removing black film from both sides. Heat the "positive" contact attached to the controller by the copper (I mean soldering-iron) and lift it up.
You will see the elements on a plate. (See the picture attached in zip)
The red-marked place is empty. You are to put a capacitor there (any kind - for example 20-100 nF). I took the first one I found on the dead battery controller from MPx200.
That's it!
Solder the positive bus back to controller. Mount the battery (you should use some new tape to cover the body of a battery).
Enjoy.
Thanks Andrew,
But it seems to be a risk to do that..any suggestions.
There is another solution that does not require you to disassemble the battery, though you must be very careful and thorough with it.
Battery should be at moderate charge. Obviously you can not see the real charge value, but you can estimate it (ie do a full charge, and the use PDA for about half a time it normally lasts).
Then remove the battery from the PDA.
You will need a good external DC (not AC!!!) power supply that can provide about 12V DC at about 500-1000mA current (be sure - no more then 1000mA!). Slightly more or less voltage is fine. I myself did it with 15V 1000mA supply.
Connect power supply - to the battery - contact. Briefly connect power supply + to the battery + contact for about 2-3 seconds.
Connect power supply - to the battery + contact. BRIEFLY connect power supply + to the battery - contact (reverse polarity). MAKE SURE YOU WONT LEAVE IT CONNECTED FOR MORE THEN ABOUT 2 (two) SECONDS!. Sparks are normal, just dont connect it for long.
After that you can replace battery in the PDA. Indicator will show last "stuck" value, but dont be upset - it will not be stuck anymore. Start with full discharge immediately - you will see it will go down now.
Make sure you do full discharge first!
(Due to the battery "remembering" the initial stuck value instead of current true charge, if you will start charging it first, you may hit the situation when battery hits full charge voltage and overcharge switch kicks in before estimated capacity will be truly at 100%, and it can prevent you from reaching reported 100% forever.)
After full discharge, do a full recharge immediately (better with ASUS power supply, not via USB), and after that you should have fully functional & calibrated battery again.
I have just tried it myself on my stuck battery (ver. 1.2) and confirm that it works. At least 3 persons from asusmobile.ru confirmed that it works too. Just be sure you use the right external power supply and dont connect it for long.
Thanks to the GlazkovD from asusmobile.ru for providing this solution.
Btw, if you wonder about source of the problem, it seems to be not the "hung battery controller" contrary to the popular beleif, though the cause of the problem is truly the battery hardware. Hung battery controller results in "unknown charge" error on the PDA, and failure even to obtain the version of the battery (because all these values can not be reported by the frozen battery controller via the SMBus or whatever they do use).
This one is almost positive the voltage monitor/ADC entering the saturated state. So it stops reporting the current battery voltage to the controller - effectively preventing the capacity estimation algorithm from working (but controller is not frozen, it works, it just can not compute the charge anymore so its left at last known value).
Obviously this is a hardware design problem and its 100% can not be solved via any software patch or solution.
The saturated voltage monitoring circuit can be "unstuck" by several ways, thats why people reported various solutions:
- by disassembling the battery and briefly shortening the contacts AndrewSh outlined. Via resistor or capacitor, basically the same. Hovewer, I would not recommend to permanently solder anything there - most likely it will cause monitor circuit to slightly shift the reported voltages (since ver. 1.2 battery firmware was not designed with capacitor in mind) and may cause the improper LiIon cell handling (ie it will report 3.4V when true voltage is 3.2V - may cause a problems on the long run or reduced capacity).
- by disconnecting the LiIon cell from controller board for some time - this removes all power from it and effectively resets the monitoring circuit. Also can be achieved by briefly shortening the cell contacts (via a resistor only, to limit the current!!). Again, this mentions cell contacts, that you see only if you disassemble the battery package, not the external gold-plated contacts. Shortening the external gold-plated contacts will achieve nothing in most cases.
- by the "external shock therapy" outlined in the previous post. Slight and brief overvoltages/overcurrents are not enough to actually fry anything, but enough to kick the voltage monitoring circuit from its saturated state.
- also in some cases voltage monitor circuit can leave its saturated state on itself with time or with any other slight unpredictable stimulus. hovewer in most cases this wont happen.
Ingvarr way to fix that does not really matter. Additional capacitors or "shock-therapy" both work pretty well.
We discovered (see wce.by) already that some ver 1.2 controllers contain that capacitor. But have minor changes in chip types and versions. So sometimes is necessary to remove the existing capacitor depending on the controller type.
Anyway - one of mine works pretty well since April (with the capacitor mounted) without any issues (overheating, wrong charge level reports, reduced battery life and so on)
Actually it was never proven that capacitor is needed - only original circuit designers actually know that, and they are not talking . As you surely seen yourself, capacitor-containing boards are of slightly different design (that maybe actually takes capacitor into account). However both designs still subject to same issue - very slight chance that it will freeze the monitoring, with capacitor or not.
To solder the capacitor, you need to detach the battery from controller board - simply doing that and waiting for some time will already cause voltage monitor to reset and un-stuck (even if you will not solder the capacitor and not touch anything else and just solder the battery back).
Since this issue may not appear for many months even on "wrong" hardware, its very hard to say for certain wheither capacitor actually helps or not, or wheither the issue will ever appear on modified hardware again or not.
IMO its easier not to bother and just reset it with external PSU. Most likely it won't reappear in a months anyway, if reappear at all. I would advise against doing permanent hardware changes on the blind, when you dont exactly know what purpose they serve. Just to be on the safe side But its up to the personal preferences I guess
shock treatment is working perfectly
Dear All,
First of all thanks to Ingvarr and GlazkovD for the solution, I checked it and perfectly working . I used old alcatel mobile charger with 12v 500mA
thanks once again
Ingvarr said:
There is another solution that does not require you to disassemble the battery, though you must be very careful and thorough with it.
Battery should be at moderate charge. Obviously you can not see the real charge value, but you can estimate it (ie do a full charge, and the use PDA for about half a time it normally lasts).
Then remove the battery from the PDA.
You will need a good external DC (not AC!!!) power supply that can provide about 12V DC at about 500-1000mA current (be sure - no more then 1000mA!). Slightly more or less voltage is fine. I myself did it with 15V 1000mA supply.
Connect power supply - to the battery - contact. Briefly connect power supply + to the battery + contact for about 2-3 seconds.
Connect power supply - to the battery + contact. BRIEFLY connect power supply + to the battery - contact (reverse polarity). MAKE SURE YOU WONT LEAVE IT CONNECTED FOR MORE THEN ABOUT 2 (two) SECONDS!. Sparks are normal, just dont connect it for long.
After that you can replace battery in the PDA. Indicator will show last "stuck" value, but dont be upset - it will not be stuck anymore. Start with full discharge immediately - you will see it will go down now.
Make sure you do full discharge first!
(Due to the battery "remembering" the initial stuck value instead of current true charge, if you will start charging it first, you may hit the situation when battery hits full charge voltage and overcharge switch kicks in before estimated capacity will be truly at 100%, and it can prevent you from reaching reported 100% forever.)
After full discharge, do a full recharge immediately (better with ASUS power supply, not via USB), and after that you should have fully functional & calibrated battery again.
I have just tried it myself on my stuck battery (ver. 1.2) and confirm that it works. At least 3 persons from asusmobile.ru confirmed that it works too. Just be sure you use the right external power supply and dont connect it for long.
Thanks to the GlazkovD from asusmobile.ru for providing this solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Outstanding !!
This solution really worked on my battery. Mine was stucked at 100%. I used a 12V 500mah charger for this.
After the "electric chair" treatment the battery is working like new. Actually, I have the phone in use for two days with no need of recharge at all.
Thanks a lot !!
Recently successfully replaced the LCD screen on my Acer A100. Device worked fine for some time after that repair. Wanting to get a secondary charger for use at work I went to radio shack. Sales "tech" tried several different adapters, found one that fit inside he port, but wiggled. She plugged it in but device wasn't showing a charge. Decided to order one from online. At home the device still would not charge with its own charger. Thought maybe the charger was faulty. Ordered two more. Still the A100 turned off when charger plugged in. Figured tech had burned out the a/c port. Ordered and installed a new one. Still A100 turns off immediately when charger is plugged in. I have 3 chargers now - same results with all 3. Have now ordered a docking station to utilize (hopefully) charging ability through 40 pin connector.
If this connection creates same shut down am I looking at a battery replacement? AM sitting at 33% battery level now, device shut down completely.
Acer wants 199.00 prepaid to submit to them for repair - this is more than I paid for the device! Not really an expense I am willing to pay if all it needs is a battery. There is no erratic behavior , just immediate shutdown as soon as a charger is connected. Any ideas?
PocketFuzz said:
Recently successfully replaced the LCD screen on my Acer A100. Device worked fine for some time after that repair. Wanting to get a secondary charger for use at work I went to radio shack. Sales "tech" tried several different adapters, found one that fit inside he port, but wiggled. She plugged it in but device wasn't showing a charge. Decided to order one from online. At home the device still would not charge with its own charger. Thought maybe the charger was faulty. Ordered two more. Still the A100 turned off when charger plugged in. Figured tech had burned out the a/c port. Ordered and installed a new one. Still A100 turns off immediately when charger is plugged in. I have 3 chargers now - same results with all 3. Have now ordered a docking station to utilize (hopefully) charging ability through 40 pin connector.
If this connection creates same shut down am I looking at a battery replacement? AM sitting at 33% battery level now, device shut down completely.
Acer wants 199.00 prepaid to submit to them for repair - this is more than I paid for the device! Not really an expense I am willing to pay if all it needs is a battery. There is no erratic behavior , just immediate shutdown as soon as a charger is connected. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If its doing it on 3 chargers its sounding more like a board charging circuit issue. You could remove the battery and then see if it behaves normally, that'll be battery or board right there. Or if you have a multi meter test output at the battery connector.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Tried connection without battery
pio_masaki said:
If its doing it on 3 chargers its sounding more like a board charging circuit issue. You could remove the battery and then see if it behaves normally, that'll be battery or board right there. Or if you have a multi meter test output at the battery connector.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't have a multi meter. Tried connection via new docking station, got same response: device immediately shut off. Tried your suggestion, disconnected battery connected to docking station, got immediate shut off. Same with charger via a/c port. :crying: Mainboard is out? But Device responds and acts normal when in battery mode - or is this isolated to the charging circuit part of the main board?
Thanks for the suggestion!
PocketFuzz said:
Don't have a multi meter. Tried connection via new docking station, got same response: device immediately shut off. Tried your suggestion, disconnected battery connected to docking station, got immediate shut off. Same with charger via a/c port. :crying: Mainboard is out? But Device responds and acts normal when in battery mode - or is this isolated to the charging circuit part of the main board?
Thanks for the suggestion!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like its tripping on the charger circuit and cutting out, like a breaker tripping. IMO look carefully for any shorts on the boards, even something stupid like dog hair can cause strange things to happen. A good blasting with air wouldn't hurt either. It could even be the dock port as it does charge from there and is subject to debris also.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
one more try
pio_masaki said:
Sounds like its tripping on the charger circuit and cutting out, like a breaker tripping. IMO look carefully for any shorts on the boards, even something stupid like dog hair can cause strange things to happen. A good blasting with air wouldn't hurt either. It could even be the dock port as it does charge from there and is subject to debris also.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again for more suggestions. Yup I have been over the board and all connections with a looking glass. Changed out the A/C dock port. My suspicion is that when the Radio Shack tech powered up the "Almost fits" adapter it blew whatever breaker the board has.
When I had it connected to the docking station with the battery disconnected, it powered on, then immediately shut off. So this definitely sounds like a "blown fuse". I completely disassembled and reassembled it again (except for the LCD screen) and checked all connections and plugs. Nothing visible to indicate a burnout or cross connection.
No odd smells either. Probably some teensy weensy transistor or resistor or something. I am not an electrician - just good at R & R.
Another visit to ebay and I am parting with 50 bucks for a "factory refurbished" motherboard. In the mean time, my beloved tablet will await further surgery. Will keep you posted. Board should be here by Saturday. I hope so - battery is down to 27%. Thanks again for weighing in!
PocketFuzz said:
Thanks again for more suggestions. Yup I have been over the board and all connections with a looking glass. Changed out the A/C dock port. My suspicion is that when the Radio Shack tech powered up the "Almost fits" adapter it blew whatever breaker the board has.
When I had it connected to the docking station with the battery disconnected, it powered on, then immediately shut off. So this definitely sounds like a "blown fuse". I completely disassembled and reassembled it again (except for the LCD screen) and checked all connections and plugs. Nothing visible to indicate a burnout or cross connection.
No odd smells either. Probably some teensy weensy transistor or resistor or something. I am not an electrician - just good at R & R.
Another visit to ebay and I am parting with 50 bucks for a "factory refurbished" motherboard. In the mean time, my beloved tablet will await further surgery. Will keep you posted. Board should be here by Saturday. I hope so - battery is down to 27%. Thanks again for weighing in!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To bad considering the crappy battery life so its not like you can charge some other way and swap the battery around.
Example, I have a bricked unit that charges but doesn't otherwise work, so I mean using my bricked board to charge it and the non charge board for use. The a100 isn't really a good setup for swapping around lol. I may actually be interested in that board now that I think about it...
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
hmmm an idea for the brave
pio_masaki said:
To bad considering the crappy battery life so its not like you can charge some other way and swap the battery around.
Example, I have a bricked unit that charges but doesn't otherwise work, so I mean using my bricked board to charge it and the non charge board for use. The a100 isn't really a good setup for swapping around lol. I may actually be interested in that board now that I think about it...
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I could figure out a way to charge the battery OTHER than through the board - I would! Which got me to thinking. One COULD get a second rear panel, cut a door in it, install teensy weensy hinges or create a hinge with cloth tape. then make some sort of extension cord for the battery charging cord, plug it in to the "external" charging board and refill the battery that way.
With a working board and the right know how, one could just extract the board, put it in a box and make a charger out of it too.
But that is just my brain rattling around ideas. :silly: Hopefully this new "refurbished" mother board will do the trick and I will learn my lesson and NEVER let a sales "tech" attempt trial adapters! at 10 minutes to 9pm tonight it was in Texas....
Until I CANNOT use it, I didn't realize how MUCH I used this little tablet!
now it blinks orange?
Oh fer cryin out loud! The motherboard has arrived, I have installed it. Can plug n the charger and drop it onto the docking station and now I get the same response for both charging options: Charge LED lights up orange solid for just about 60 seconds, then begins blinking. Device doesn't respond when power button is pushed UNLESS it is plugged in, and then it just sits at the "ACER" screen.led changes to blue.
OK, wait a minute, this is the third time I have turned it on while plugged in. Acer screen has moved to Android, Device has started. Battery icon showing a question mark. 23%
Turned off, turned back on, now battery shows only 3%????
Think I saw something on the forums about that. will go on a quest.
Finally charging again!
Shhh, don't want to disturb my device....
Found folks on other forums with similar issues of the Acer A100 tablet showing only 3% charge. I removed and inserted the charging pin several times, the device would show solid orange led for about one minute then start blinking. Turned the device on when charger plugged in, unlocked the screen, then with device still plugged in I shut it down completely. Removed charger. Plugged it back in and so far the led is staying at solid orange.
Please keep your fingers crossed for me! This has been quite the roller coaster ride of discovery. Will leave it be for overnight (what is left of the overnight). Then peek at it in the morning. With any luck at all it will have accepted a full charge and I will be greeted with a functioning device! I almost want to learn a new trade..
well now that is weird, got up this morning to a nice blue charge indicator. Yay! Unplugged charger, press on button, hold, hold, hold, hold, hold and device does not start up. Dang it! Plugged it back in, led went solid orange, then started blinking again! Pressed and held on button. Device came on. battery meter shows 3% and a question mark! HUH?
have device plugged in, settings of course show android version 3.2.1 for this motherboard. Guess I need to upgrade it to ICS maybe that will resolve this weird battery issue? Hope soemone here has ideas, feels like I am soooo close to resolving this.
I read the upper posts.
Now I want to share my experience regarding battery load sharing:
I have allso problems to charge the battery.
I have on my tab, for example, 40% of battery power.
I turn my tab off.
When i plugged the charging cable in it shows me the orange led for load.
After two hours or more i turned the tab on.
It shows me not more than 40% but only 37% or so.
So not loaded. This was a bad sign....
I dont no was happend.
I get a little bit nervous but when the tab not get power it doesnt work....
After two/three hours the battery was empty.
Now i can only start my tab while plugged the charging cabel in because the battery will not load.
I have tried several options to find a solution (disconnect the battery, install a new battery, etc. ....).
My solution was fairly straightforward:
I open the tab. Look where the power comes in.
Of the charging socket go four (two red and two black) cable to the motherboard and from the motherboard it goes seven (two red, two black and for me not so important three other coloured cabels) to the battery.
I organized four thin wire and soldered it from the charging socket directly to the battery (of course red to red black to black ).
The result:
When i plugged the charging cabel in while android is running i get no information to load and it shows me not to.
But when i turned the tab off and on again it shows me that it has the battery charged :fingers-crossed: .
After on night while the charger plugged in the battery is fully loaded!!
And of course i get the information in android the discharging of the battery but this is an normaly thing!
So, the problem to load the battery for me is solved .
I hope it helps a little bit for everyone!
frischeis said:
I read the upper posts.
Now I want to share my experience regarding battery load sharing:
I have allso problems to charge the battery.
I have on my tab, for example, 40% of battery power.
I turn my tab off.
When i plugged the charging cable in it shows me the orange led for load.
After two hours or more i turned the tab on.
It shows me not more than 40% but only 37% or so.
So not loaded. This was a bad sign....
I dont no was happend.
I get a little bit nervous but when the tab not get power it doesnt work....
After two/three hours the battery was empty.
Now i can only start my tab while plugged the charging cabel in because the battery will not load.
I have tried several options to find a solution (disconnect the battery, install a new battery, etc. ....).
My solution was fairly straightforward:
I open the tab. Look where the power comes in.
Of the charging socket go four (two red and two black) cable to the motherboard and from the motherboard it goes seven (two red, two black and for me not so important three other coloured cabels) to the battery.
I organized four thin wire and soldered it from the charging socket directly to the battery (of course red to red black to black ).
The result:
When i plugged the charging cabel in while android is running i get no information to load and it shows me not to.
But when i turned the tab off and on again it shows me that it has the battery charged :fingers-crossed: .
After on night while the charger plugged in the battery is fully loaded!!
And of course i get the information in android the discharging of the battery but this is an normaly thing!
So, the problem to load the battery for me is solved .
I hope it helps a little bit for everyone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really hope other isn't any voltage or amperage changes needed of that can blow that battery up real quick, plus it can't stop charging, you'll need to monitor that yourself.
Thanks for the info though, it does appear to be yet another somewhat common bug these have that can be addressed by a user if they feel the need to.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
Not switch the charger off when the battery is full?
I think the charger there is a shutdown would otherwise overload the battery, right?
Or do this the motherboard?
Anyway, for me the tab is fully working now and if the battery is broken, it is not a big expense to replace them .
frischeis said:
Not switch the charger off when the battery is full?
I think the charger there is a shutdown would otherwise overload the battery, right?
Or do this the motherboard?
Anyway, for me the tab is fully working now and if the battery is broken, it is not a big expense to replace them .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was saying the board is in charge of cutting the battery charge off, not the charger itself so maybe keep an eye on it, its a good way for an explosion or fire.
Tapatalked from my HTC DNA - ReVolt
A100 tablet not charging still
Frischies is much braver than I am.
Wiring the battery direct to the charging port- I would definitely worry about burning up the battery or causing a fire - especially while charging when I sleep. I have had more than my fair share of run ins with fire.
The Motherboard I ordered arrived and I installed it. It was listed as "factory refurbished", but unfortunately will not accept a charge. I thought it had charged overnight at one point, but all it does is blink orange and the battery reads 3% or 0%. Turning the device off when plugged in and doing a reset has not helped. The vendor has been gracious to do a replacement, so I will follow that route until I get a working motherboard.
I have discovered that the docking station will be a welcome addition to my Acer tablet paraphernalia! Although this model docking station isn't the one that allows HDMI throughput, it still will be nice for music, and other media. A Bluetooth keyboard and the tablet will offer yet another computer tool!
First things first though, get the tablet to accept a charge - until then it is a really wide flat paper weight! I am getting VERY adept at opening the tablet and removing the internals!
It is working again! The motherboard sent was defective but vendor issued an RMA. Received the replacement yesterday, installed it last night. Charged over night and fully functional this morning! Ahhh it feels good to have my little buddy back again. Didn't realize how much I used it, until I couldn't use it! Thanks to all for the help.
Sent from my A100 using xda app-developers app
Hey,
My LG G3 battery's holding a charge seemingly well, but it isn't able to power the phone anymore, for some reason. Off the phone, I've managed to have six common DC motors and 12 High Intensity SMD LED's running for two days, to test the battery capacity, and it managed this feat with 30% battery remaining. It seems OK by me.
But after plugging a single high power DC engine, the battery kinda "shuts down", like it tripped a breaker or something, and only turns on again after I remove the connected device. Several other batteries I own (notably many Nokia BL-5C, originals and knock-offs) are able to hold the high power DC motor flawlessly. Using an amperimeter to hit the terminals, it briefly shows 1.1A before "turning off", while other batteries just keep powered, showing 1.4A, 1.5A on the display.
On the phone, I think that when it tries to pull a high load from the battery, the battery turns off and the phone resets. On a charger, though, it is able to run indefinitely. If I disconnect the charger and don't touch the phone, with the screen on, it'll most likely keep on, until a notification arrives, or when I touch the screen (probably the touch boost that draws energy)
The battery isn't stuffed (i.e. "fat"), looks healthy visually and it seems to hold a charge pretty well, so I don't think it's internally shorted... right? What's possibly wrong with it?
P.S.: I've already ordered two new batteries.
ilmec PM'd me, as he cannot post yet.
ilmec said:
I can't reply on the tread you open so I send you a PM
I have the same problem. The phone works only with the USB cable pluged in. Without the cable, the phone goes out to the first notification. Problem starts with the 23/12 CM13 and the 26/12 the phone turn off. I try with the solution in the CM13 tread but nothing works. Stores tell me that it is a hardware problem and not the battery. Service centers are closed until the end of the holidays. I will buy a new battery but I think it is not the solution.
Please let me know if a new battery is the solution to the problem.
Sorry for my bad english...
PS: i post the link for the CM13 tread with the guide that I tried to use thinking in a hard brick
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=64531740&postcount=1041
http://open-freax.fr/guide-unbrick-your-lg-g3/
http://forum.xda-developers.com/sprint-lg-g3/general/guide-fix-hard-brick-recovery-guide-t3132359
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interestingly enough, it happened after a freeze and discharge overnight on CM13.
I do think it's the battery, though, because it also does that in TWRP, and my tests on the battery itself showed a weird pattern of sudden shutdown on heavy power consumption. Perhaps CM13's freeze contributed in damaging the battery, but I think the remaining of the hardware is in good shape. Mine would die on the first notification if sound is enabled, because it'd die just milliseconds after starting playing the notification sound, or just at random after I remove the power cable. I'm 98% sure it's the battery, at least in my case. I've managed to access TWRP, backup CM13, wipe the system and install the new LG Marshmallow ROM, all by using the charger cable. I've managed to boot up on the ROM, set it up and restore my Titanium Backup.
From my experience, stores always lies about "shorts" in the phone motherboard. It's a inexplicable excuse that most of the customers bite. I've had a friend taht was told his "wifi card" from his G3 had "busted", and it needed a "replacement" of the "wifi module only". As you know, the wifi module is integrated in the Snapdragon 801, so that'd be impossible if not replacing the entire SoC. He asked for my help, but I couldn't reach him. Most likely a hard reset and reflash of a stock KDZ would fix his issue, but he had to take it to a "professional", which asked for a good amount of money for "fixing" it. Probably they just did what I suggested, and took his money after a lame excuse.
I could be wrong, too. Although both our phones had similar issues after 12/23 CM13's, my case can be different than yours. One thing that I was willing to try was to rig another battery (like I said, I have many from different models) to the probably damaged LG G3 battery, to see if it holds the phone. Unfortunately, just connecting a different battery to the G3 will show a "?" mark on the screen, similar to that when you plug it in without a battery. Rigging it with the stock battery would fool the phone thinking the battery is original and is running fine, but unfortunately I cannot reach the terminals safely when the battery's connected. I'd rather just wait for the new batteries to come.
Can I post your PM to the thread? It seems very pertinent.
Thanks
I have seen batteries do all kinds of stuff. Most deff hold nominal operating voltages not just on phones but all things theyll hold nominal voltage but the actuall amperage to drive whatever isnt there. Not like a dead cell where forsay a 12 volt car batt has 6 cells 3 pos 3 neg each cell a. 2 volts per cell equalling 12 volts 1 cells bad 10 volts. Now back to even though u tested the batt i would still try a cheap bat and see the g3s are real finicky on batts normally i dont recomend a cheap batt or the bigger batts i always use the oem bat
Before flexible-homebutton-softkeys-charger port part replacement :
1. Battery already swollen
2. Home button unresponsive most of the time
After flexible-homebutton-softkeys-charger port part replacement :
1.home button still unresponsive most of the time
2. Charging the phone only reach 15% max, then it goes down to 14%, then goes up to 15% again in infinite cycle
3. Had to use external battery charger in order to get the battery charged to 100%
Which part in my e988 is the real source of this problem ?
Paleskin said:
Before flexible-homebutton-softkeys-charger port part replacement :
1. Battery already swollen
2. Home button unresponsive most of the time
After flexible-homebutton-softkeys-charger port part replacement :
1.home button still unresponsive most of the time
2. Charging the phone only reach 15% max, then it goes down to 14%, then goes up to 15% again in infinite cycle
3. Had to use external battery charger in order to get the battery charged to 100%
Which part in my e988 is the real source of this problem ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had similar home-button issues with Galaxy R after DIY screen assembly replacement. Can be button having bad physical contact with board (manifested by dropped button, short clicks, hard button or even too soft button; button has to be in level with front panel glass and has to be soft-ish, but shouldn't get stuck or too hard to press), can be board's bad connection with motherboard - check that micro connector, it maybe didn't fit properly or there is possibly some dust in it (this was my issue with Galaxy R).
Battery one is probably connected multiple factors, including broken battery, because I think that charging electronics in E988 won't allow charging of broken batteries on high currents - mine didn't even want to start with broken or replacement batteries without temperature sensor (so had no luck finding good replacements - funny enough, friend with F240K could use all of those). Capacity reading can be also false (but if battery is charging with powerbank, but not with charger, small chances for that) - you may want to check what dmesg reports - it gives constant battery percentage and voltage updates during charging, and also check Ampere measurements while on charger to make sure device actually has some juice coming in.
Last idea was from experience, I've connected mine (while it's pot was 100% functional) to a friends cable, device charged up to some percent (maybe 20%), and started playing same game due to really low charging current it was getting from that cable. Back then I didn't have Ampere, but I was accustomed to things like that from the begging, when my brand-new E988 didn't want to charge on Samsung and Nokia cables Had to trade some really nice and long Nokia cable for crappy LG's one longer than 50cm because of that...
P.S. How did you get that part all in one? Isn't home button/softkeys one assembly, and USB/OTG/MHL/Charging another? Or my old E988 somehow differs from yours. I'm looking for charger assembly because I gave my phone to a family member who asked for it and knew about a problem, and they are already whining how "it works only with one cable and I can't use phone while it's charging!"
ShadySquirrel said:
I had similar home-button issues with Galaxy R after DIY screen assembly replacement. Can be button having bad physical contact with board (manifested by dropped button, short clicks, hard button or even too soft button; button has to be in level with front panel glass and has to be soft-ish, but shouldn't get stuck or too hard to press), can be board's bad connection with motherboard - check that micro connector, it maybe didn't fit properly or there is possibly some dust in it (this was my issue with Galaxy R).
Battery one is probably connected multiple factors, including broken battery, because I think that charging electronics in E988 won't allow charging of broken batteries on high currents - mine didn't even want to start with broken or replacement batteries without temperature sensor (so had no luck finding good replacements - funny enough, friend with F240K could use all of those). Capacity reading can be also false (but if battery is charging with powerbank, but not with charger, small chances for that) - you may want to check what dmesg reports - it gives constant battery percentage and voltage updates during charging, and also check Ampere measurements while on charger to make sure device actually has some juice coming in.
Last idea was from experience, I've connected mine (while it's pot was 100% functional) to a friends cable, device charged up to some percent (maybe 20%), and started playing same game due to really low charging current it was getting from that cable. Back then I didn't have Ampere, but I was accustomed to things like that from the begging, when my brand-new E988 didn't want to charge on Samsung and Nokia cables Had to trade some really nice and long Nokia cable for crappy LG's one longer than 50cm because of that...
P.S. How did you get that part all in one? Isn't home button/softkeys one assembly, and USB/OTG/MHL/Charging another? Or my old E988 somehow differs from yours. I'm looking for charger assembly because I gave my phone to a family member who asked for it and knew about a problem, and they are already whining how "it works only with one cable and I can't use phone while it's charging!"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the part, which I bought online
Yet, it still doesnt fix the problem, is it possible that the IC chip on the board is the real culprit ?
Paleskin said:
This is the part, which I bought online
Yet, it still doesnt fix the problem, is it possible that the IC chip on the board is the real culprit ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure my USB board looks like one from the attachment, without all that plastics around... I may be wrong, though, it was long time ago I've opened my device, and I can't really grab it now and open to check out.
As for the IC, chances for that are small. Have you tried charging with other cable/charger pair? If buttons aren't working you can always use on-screen ones, but port is a greater issue.
ShadySquirrel said:
I'm pretty sure my USB board looks like one from the attachment, without all that plastics around... I may be wrong, though, it was long time ago I've opened my device, and I can't really grab it now and open to check out.
As for the IC, chances for that are small. Have you tried charging with other cable/charger pair? If buttons aren't working you can always use on-screen ones, but port is a greater issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That plastics are the softkeys, and in the middle are the home button and micro usb port
Tried many cables, all give the same result
Hey, I have a messed up P600 tablet here, I messed it up by trying to install a custom ROM but my tablet was very outdated, so now the bootloader will not charge the battery, which is now completely dead. When I took the back off of my tablet, I noticed the battery is connected with 6 small wires (2 red, 2 green and 2 black) and a small white connector. I remember a while ago it was possible to power up an old Android phone by cutting up a USB cable and having the wires touch the pins where the battery connects to, in a certain way to fool the phone it is running off of the battery. Does anybody know if something like this can be pulled off with the P600, possibly a USB to P600 battery's connector exists (although I highly doubt something specific like that would exist lol)? Thanks!
Battery voltage ranges from 3,5 to 4,2 volts while usb is 5 volts. This idea don't sound healthy, but may work or scrap the Note.
If the battery is not completely dead by discharge, the safety circuit/polyfuse will re-arm once connected to the charger and the battery should charge, but the system will notice it's presence only upon unplugging and replugging. I once thought an old mobile of mine was dead, or it's battery, cos the aforementioned trick seeked not to work. Before throwingveverything in the hin, i tried it two or three times more, and it came to life again. But that was deep discharge by a freeze, not by having the device lie around for years w/o charge, then the battery is toast.