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Hi
I Need Information About Upgrading The Ram Memory Of My Xda Exec.i'll Realy Appreciate A Do It Yourself Info.along With The Actual Tipe Of Memory And How Much Would Be The Maximum I Can Upgrade It To.any Info Will Be Well Appreciated!
Thanks!
the only thing I can think of is, that the Universal has some empty places for memory on the pcb.
if you are good in soldering SMD mounted memory you can check, if this is possible and where you must solder them in the universal by looking in the service manual (which also explains how to take apart the device).
the service manual you can find in the ftp of xda-developers.com.
if you do not know what is SMD etc. then just forget it as you will for sure screw up your device.
for what do you need more memory?
it has been tried, and you can find a forum post on this site about 8 - 10 months old.
there is a spare slot on the main board. it was done and added, but the OS didnt recognise the extra addition.
i find it odd. it was proposed that M$ OS limited its use, however, my wife has an IPAQ running WM5, and she has about 130mb of program memory (cant check she isnt here). Sure its not a phone, doesnt have 3G or GPRS etc, but as PDA, its fast, never runs out of memory, and has more than what mine does. So it isnt M$, it must be HTC manufacturer.
In summary, no matter how good you solder, it aint gonna work.
I also remember reading somwhere that with the extra memory the battery will drain way to fast thus rendering the upgrade utterly useless
Bro u shld really forget this thght coz as it is mentioned above dat even v know dat there is an empty slot provided by the hardware manuf. but there is no support recognized by our M$ OS .
So let's get this straight once and for all:
I've read through a lot of threads regarding this, and some ppl say that the limitation lies with WM, some say that it does NOT lie with WM, some say that you have to get the hardware correctly hooked up, some say that the soldering has to be correct.........
It seems nobody has been able to settle the issue conclusively one way or the other.
so, does a pocketpc device exist that:
a) is based on the same CPU as the uni
b) has more than 64MB of RAM (128/256)
c) has WM5/6 and it sees all of the RAM??
If such a device exists, then in theory no ROM change should be necessary, and the answer should lie with hooking up the additional/replacement chips correcctly.
Thoughts along this road?
D.
Develo said:
So let's get this straight once and for all:
I've read through a lot of threads regarding this, and some ppl say that the limitation lies with WM, some say that it does NOT lie with WM, some say that you have to get the hardware correctly hooked up, some say that the soldering has to be correct.........
It seems nobody has been able to settle the issue conclusively one way or the other.
so, does a pocketpc device exist that:
a) is based on the same CPU as the uni
b) has more than 64MB of RAM (128/256)
c) has WM5/6 and it sees all of the RAM??
If such a device exists, then in theory no ROM change should be necessary, and the answer should lie with hooking up the additional/replacement chips correcctly.
Thoughts along this road?
D.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it cant be a limitation of the "os" as atena has 128 mb ram
Think most if not all the WM6 models are now 128mb at least aren't they? Would seem to point towards HTC issue...
the universal was originally a wm2003se device with 128mb ram, they made it down to 64mb with the release of wm5, this is why the slots remain. If you can solder bga (needs an x-ray machine to verify the connections) and also find out how to get the memory noticed by the motherboard then it's a simple hex edit to make wm5/6 use it.
Interesting. Suppose I get the bga chips soldered on correctly.
1) What has to be done to wm5/6 so that the added ram gets seen?
2) I read someqhere that soldering just the bga chips is not enough. It seems that some additional parts are required. How about we get a detailed explanation going here?
Or is there a thread somewhere else about this already? I've searched around but haven't seen an explanation...
D.
Edit: while using an xray really insures that the connections are correct, I've soldered bgas before using more traditional methods (i.e.: hot plate + hot air gun). Doing this can damage the bga chips you;re trying to solder, but it is not that hard to do. Plus, I think the risk of damaging a few of the new chips you just bought is worth getting the final reward of doubling the RAM of the Uni...
BlackICE said:
for what do you need more memory?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the only reason I want to sell mine, because it has too little memory. I cannot start Navigon Mobile Navigator 6. Well I can start it but as soon as I want to search for a route to my Destination it lacks memory.
I found out that with PDAViet's ROM (one of the older Crossbow ones) where it has about 30 MB free it works, but I normaly have only about 22-24 MB left after syncing with no Program running. That's too little. This is why I wait for the Ultimate 7150 from IMATE.
simon_darley said:
i find it odd. it was proposed that M$ OS limited its use, however, my wife has an IPAQ running WM5, and she has about 130mb of program memory (cant check she isnt here). Sure its not a phone, doesnt have 3G or GPRS etc, but as PDA, its fast, never runs out of memory, and has more than what mine does. So it isnt M$, it must be HTC manufacturer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's why I'm awaiting the new ones from IMate. Perhaps they are fast as they are supposed to be. My MDA III (That's the BlueAngel) was much faster than the MDA Pro (Universal)
NiTeSHiFT said:
That's why I'm awaiting the new ones from IMate. Perhaps they are fast as they are supposed to be. My MDA III (That's the BlueAngel) was much faster than the MDA Pro (Universal)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes but that was because Storage Memory was also in RAM...
Develo said:
1) What has to be done to wm5/6 so that the added ram gets seen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing should be done. Device would detect 128Mb automatically if RAM is correctly soldered. The RAM detection code is identical to the code used in BlueAngel ROM, so it should be working.
I even made a patched ROM on which device always think that 128Mb RAM is installed. So the problem is in soldering
2) I read someqhere that soldering just the bga chips is not enough. It seems that some additional parts are required. How about we get a detailed explanation going here?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are 2 resistors that need to be shifted. Search forum, we've published the fotos.
But that is not enough, the whole RAM is not accessible, so something else should be soldered.
Does anyone know if the new imate ultimate series will recognize an sd / mini sd card greater than 2mb??
Midget_1990 said:
the universal was originally a wm2003se device with 128mb ram, they made it down to 64mb with the release of wm5, this is why the slots remain. If you can solder bga (needs an x-ray machine to verify the connections) and also find out how to get the memory noticed by the motherboard then it's a simple hex edit to make wm5/6 use it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does anyone have one of these 2003SE Uni's, to compare hardware? Has anyone seen one of these?
It was never released as a WM2003 device though before it was changed to run WM5. Finding one is pretty much impossible if anything.. I do recall a year or two ago a chinese user of the device soldered the ram on the device and got it to detect the full 128mb. His work was never posted here though, I came across it on google a long time ago. If I find the page I'll post it here.
good god please do that!!!!!!!! I've been racking my brains out reading datasheets and googling and reading stuff about this, and I've been wondering for the longest time how come nobody has done it yet!!
Hope you find that page again!!!! I sure haven't!
D.
Has anyone tried looking for FCC or Patent Diagrams?
I've been trying emailing reviewers who had pre-production ones, especially the ones who's articles said 128mb of ram
Sounds very good all this,
Hopefully someone finds out how this is to be done.
Oh and i am willing to try it out too (hmm man too bad i cannot solder bga chips)
This is a question for those in the know when it comes to programming.Why isn't there a way to revive a bricked phone? Can't there be some method for a host computer to manually write the radio to the device? How does HTC fix a bricked phone for it to be a refurb?
I'm just very curious about this because I see a few people attempt to update the radio only to lose power and brick their EVO. I have no programming experience so don't know what goes on at the internal component level. Thanks in advance for your input.
It goes back to the old bootstrapping problem when computers were being developed. A computer (in this case, your cell phone) is pretty dumb at the hardware level. All it can do is run programs. That's ALL it can do. It can't even load a program, only run them. Thus the problem. It gets solved by injecting a "bootstrap" program at startup (from the phrase "pull yourself up by your bootstraps") which is a program that runs and gives access to all the I/O, and the computer can then load more programs.
When you update this bootstrapping program, it gets dicey, because if it isn't written right, or if there's a glitch during the update, this most basic of all functions gets corrupted. If the program that tells the phone how to load programs goes away, all the phone can do is... sit there. Like a brick.
Hope this helped!
That helped me, thanks.
Soylent Grin said:
It goes back to the old bootstrapping problem when computers were being developed. A computer (in this case, your cell phone) is pretty dumb at the hardware level. All it can do is run programs. That's ALL it can do. It can't even load a program, only run them. Thus the problem. It gets solved by injecting a "bootstrap" program at startup (from the phrase "pull yourself up by your bootstraps") which is a program that runs and gives access to all the I/O, and the computer can then load more programs.
When you update this bootstrapping program, it gets dicey, because if it isn't written right, or if there's a glitch during the update, this most basic of all functions gets corrupted. If the program that tells the phone how to load programs goes away, all the phone can do is... sit there. Like a brick.
Hope this helped!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info. That is interesting. So how does HTC initially put the bootstrap in and/or how do they handle a bricked phone?
Soylent Grin said:
It goes back to the old bootstrapping problem when computers were being developed. A computer (in this case, your cell phone) is pretty dumb at the hardware level. All it can do is run programs. That's ALL it can do. It can't even load a program, only run them. Thus the problem. It gets solved by injecting a "bootstrap" program at startup (from the phrase "pull yourself up by your bootstraps") which is a program that runs and gives access to all the I/O, and the computer can then load more programs.
When you update this bootstrapping program, it gets dicey, because if it isn't written right, or if there's a glitch during the update, this most basic of all functions gets corrupted. If the program that tells the phone how to load programs goes away, all the phone can do is... sit there. Like a brick.
Hope this helped!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks good explanation appreciate that.
rafroehlich2 said:
Thanks for the info. That is interesting. So how does HTC initially put the bootstrap in and/or how do they handle a bricked phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is probably a JTAG interface somewhere in there. In fact,that's how the original hack of the IPhone was done. (Better ways were since found) Most devices have a quasi standard interface for programming the flash and accessing and the hardware for diagnostics. For instance,linksys routers actually have a spot on the board to solder a header and you can make a cable that connects to the parralel port. Do a google search for "Hairy Dairy Maid Debrick" and you will find it. A similar thing is probobally possible with the Evo (Ive even seen them on Hard Drives and CD Rom drives) The problem is,its not entirely standardized,and it might not even be a connector or pads on the board. It might instead be a matter of knowing where you can connect the leads on the board to something that under the right circumstances BECOMES the JTAG connector. (For instance,a pin that controls something else might be a JTAG interface for the first few hundred milliseconds of start-up,or if a certain other pin of the chip is grounded when the power is applied. It might also be completely internal to the chip,and there be NO connectors on the board (it almost CERTAINLY has the capability,they need it during prototyping) and the chips might be programmed BEFORE they are soldered in. It might take replacing the rom chip to get it to go. There are lots of ifs
Chances are though,the factory has a special cable and a special software program that can reprogram the device. To replicate that might be relatively easy or could be next to impossible but requires a certain degree of knowledge about the hardware. What I suspect is,until someone who has the skills to make such a cable bricks their phone,they wont bother figuring out how to debrick one. In fact,when that person bricks their phone,they will probably take it back to sprint and say "I dont know what happens" In fact,even if its stuck looping in an obviously hacked boot loader he for some odd reason cant undo,hes probably going to send it back to sprint. I know someone who did exactly that to their brand new HP laptop. He found that 15kv from the flyback of an old B&W television applied to the memory slots took care of the looping and Best Buy gave him another one. As he put it "I dont know what happened,but it smells bad and wont boot up"
pflatlyne said:
There is probably a JTAG interface somewhere in there. In fact,that's how the original hack of the IPhone was done. (Better ways were since found) Most devices have a quasi standard interface for programming the flash and accessing and the hardware for diagnostics. For instance,linksys routers actually have a spot on the board to solder a header and you can make a cable that connects to the parralel port. Do a google search for "Hairy Dairy Maid Debrick" and you will find it. A similar thing is probobally possible with the Evo (Ive even seen them on Hard Drives and CD Rom drives) The problem is,its not entirely standardized,and it might not even be a connector or pads on the board. It might instead be a matter of knowing where you can connect the leads on the board to something that under the right circumstances BECOMES the JTAG connector. (For instance,a pin that controls something else might be a JTAG interface for the first few hundred milliseconds of start-up,or if a certain other pin of the chip is grounded when the power is applied. It might also be completely internal to the chip,and there be NO connectors on the board (it almost CERTAINLY has the capability,they need it during prototyping) and the chips might be programmed BEFORE they are soldered in. It might take replacing the rom chip to get it to go. There are lots of ifs
Chances are though,the factory has a special cable and a special software program that can reprogram the device. To replicate that might be relatively easy or could be next to impossible but requires a certain degree of knowledge about the hardware. What I suspect is,until someone who has the skills to make such a cable bricks their phone,they wont bother figuring out how to debrick one. In fact,when that person bricks their phone,they will probably take it back to sprint and say "I dont know what happens" In fact,even if its stuck looping in an obviously hacked boot loader he for some odd reason cant undo,hes probably going to send it back to sprint. I know someone who did exactly that to their brand new HP laptop. He found that 15kv from the flyback of an old B&W television applied to the memory slots took care of the looping and Best Buy gave him another one. As he put it "I dont know what happened,but it smells bad and wont boot up"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow. Thanks for the detailed answer. Too bad this isn't a standardized item. I hope eventually things progress enough where this isn't even a thought. Thanks again for the good response.
Sent from my PC36100
rafroehlich2 said:
Wow. Thanks for the detailed answer. Too bad this isn't a standardized item. I hope eventually things progress enough where this isn't even a thought. Thanks again for the good response.
Sent from my PC36100
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea,it would be nice if it were. Its kinda sorta quasi standard,so it HAS been done in some cases where its necessary,but often there are easier ways around it. Personally, I have allways thought that its a pretty stupid thing to make a piece of equipment that can fail due to a bad flash. The people who designed many of the flash memory chips seemed to agree,and they added something called a "boot block" to many,but the way its implemented,when its implemented doesn't fully protect you from a bad flash. Its even worse now that everything is in ball grid array chips soldered down to the board.
I've read on HF that if you put your phone on usb debugging and connect it via usb, then defragment it with windows it will speed your phone up 50% faster.
opinions?
elvensbane said:
I've read on HF that if you put your phone on usb debugging and connect it via usb, then defragment it with windows it will speed your phone up 50% faster.
opinions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how exactly do you defragment t once connected?
never heard of this
do you mean like defrag the sd card??
I use two cache cleaner apps to keep my phone clean of everything, use them both at least once a day.
andybones said:
how exactly do you defragment t once connected?
never heard of this
do you mean like defrag the sd card??
I use two cache cleaner apps to keep my phone clean of everything, use them both at least once a day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 I'm curious as well. I'm all about fast speeds on this thing
Sent from my Incredible 2 HD using Forum Runner
Interesting... so I hooked up my phone to my laptop, connected as disc drive, went to properties on my sd card, selected tools, and then defragment, analyze.
After it did the analysis, it said that my sd card was 37% fragmented So needless to say, as I'm typing this, my sd card is being defragmentend
Oh... I do have a backup of my sd card so if anything weird happens, I'll be safe
I'll report back later with the results
PacerguyDon said:
Interesting... so I hooked up my phone to my laptop, connected as disc drive, went to properties on my sd card, selected tools, and then defragment, analyze.
After it did the analysis, it said that my sd card was 37% fragmented So needless to say, as I'm typing this, my sd card is being defragmentend
Oh... I do have a backup of my sd card so if anything weird happens, I'll be safe
I'll report back later with the results
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very interesting man, nice find!
9% defrag for me, defragmenting now
Edit: all done, 0% defrag now, didn't delete anything. very nice find.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but but I believe that fragmentation means nothing to flash media. Defragmenting moves the files closer to each other on a physical disk, so the needle has to move around less. But on a flash storage device I believe you're doing nothing of use, and actually just using up write cycles on the flash media
Sent from my Cyancredible 2 using Tapatalk
Zax_Was_Here said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but but I believe that fragmentation means nothing to flash media. Defragmenting moves the files closer to each other on a physical disk, so the needle has to move around less. But on a flash storage device I believe you're doing nothing of use, and actually just using up write cycles on the flash media
Sent from my Cyancredible 2 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may very well be correct. It makes sense to me anyway. I just thought I'd see if it was possible or not... So far, I'm still waiting on the final results. It's taking forever. I've went through the defragmenting stage, and now at 16% consolidated.
PacerguyDon said:
You may very well be correct. It makes sense to me anyway. I just thought I'd see if it was possible or not... So far, I'm still waiting on the final results. It's taking forever. I've went through the defragmenting stage, and now at 16% consolidated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is that a 32gb or a 16gb class 4?
C'mon man it took 2hrs for 16% and that was 2hrs ago.. LOL JK...
Seriously tho, wouldn't a card reader be more efficient?
EDIT:
My Targus card reader and DiskTrix found 48% fragged files an my 8gb card and it took about an hour to fix fragged files only.
I thought consolidation would take forever. The result was a faster reboot and quicker data access.
I may be wrong but this seems to be a better option then the occasional formatting of the card.
As it only moves the files that need to move.
Android uses the Linux kernel and is backed by a linux-based file system (Ext 2/3/4). Ext by default handles the locating and storage of your files by finding the least fragmented sections on the 'disk' (or in our case flash memory). Ext can get fragmented, but it's very rare (you have to be fully maxing out the disk in some really awkward ways -- basically trying to fragment it).
All in all you should never need to 'defrag' it since the file system keeps things nice and tidy. A FAT-based memory card is a different case, however since memory cards have basically no seek time it shouldn't impact you.
Defragging flash memory is a serious no-no. Flash memory has a finite number of read/write cycles before it wears out (this has to do with electrons leaving permanent channels in the transistors) and defragging would only use up more of these.
I just found this article describing SSD defrag but I think it still applies to SD Cards.
It makes sense that wear leveling or fragging the files would increase the write life cycles of the sectors.
http://www.ghacks.net/2009/01/03/should-you-defragment-a-ssd/
Defragmentation describes the process of physically organizing the contents of a hard drive or partition so that the data sectors of each file will be stored close together to reduce load and seek times.
Solid State Drives can access any location on the drive in the same time. This is one of the main advantages over hard drives. This also means that there is no need to defragment a Solid State Drive ever. These drives have actually been designed to write data evenly in all sectors of the drive which the industry is calling wear leveling. Each sector of a Solid State Drive has a limited number of writes before it cannot be overwritten anymore. (this is a theoretical limit which cannot be reached in work environments)
If you did defragment your Solid State Disk you can rest assured that you did not harm it in any way. It is just that this process is not needed and that defragmentation causes lots of write processes which means that the drive will reach its write limits sooner.
No need for defragmentation is therefor another advantage of Solid State Drives.
cac2us said:
I just found this article describing SSD defrag but I think it still applies to SD Cards.
It makes sense that wear leveling or fragging the files would increase the write life cycles of the sectors.
http://www.ghacks.net/2009/01/03/should-you-defragment-a-ssd/
Defragmentation describes the process of physically organizing the contents of a hard drive or partition so that the data sectors of each file will be stored close together to reduce load and seek times.
Solid State Drives can access any location on the drive in the same time. This is one of the main advantages over hard drives. This also means that there is no need to defragment a Solid State Drive ever. These drives have actually been designed to write data evenly in all sectors of the drive which the industry is calling wear leveling. Each sector of a Solid State Drive has a limited number of writes before it cannot be overwritten anymore. (this is a theoretical limit which cannot be reached in work environments)
If you did defragment your Solid State Disk you can rest assured that you did not harm it in any way. It is just that this process is not needed and that defragmentation causes lots of write processes which means that the drive will reach its write limits sooner.
No need for defragmentation is therefor another advantage of Solid State Drives.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does apply to SD cards as well, as SSD drives are another form of flash media, just like SD cards, and the phone's internal memory
So in the case of flash drives, the more fragged the better.
Read only cards would theoretically last forever.
The Only advantage to having consolidated the data, would be in the case of backups that would be accessed quicker.
I think I would rather give up a few milliseconds of my time to get the mileage out of a fgagged flash drive..
cac2us said:
Is that a 32gb or a 16gb class 4?
C'mon man it took 2hrs for 16% and that was 2hrs ago.. LOL JK...
Seriously tho, wouldn't a card reader be more efficient?
EDIT:
My Targus card reader and DiskTrix found 48% fragged files an my 8gb card and it took about an hour to fix fragged files only.
I thought consolidation would take forever. The result was a faster reboot and quicker data access.
I may be wrong but this seems to be a better option then the occasional formatting of the card.
As it only moves the files that need to move.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a 32g class 10 and it was done in 15 minutes.
+1 on the previous posts by ubuntunerd and cac2us.
Defragmentation only helps to reduce drive head movement as separated bits of the file are read. Flash drives and ssd's don't have drive heads, and hence don't need to be defragmented. Defragging them will only cause unnecessary read/erase/write cycles.
This is one instance where less is more.
I just got my kickstarter edition and was trying to sideload apps through usb port in ouya. At first when I plugged in the usb lights went on but nothing showed up on ouya. After fiddling the USB drive and pushing in a bit more, the drive showed up. I realised that any USB I try I have to insert it and fiddle it till it gets a connection and carefully leave it at that angle otherwise it wont detect.
Anyone else facing same issue?
igoforthebest said:
I just got my kickstarter edition and was trying to sideload apps through usb port in ouya. At first when I plugged in the usb lights went on but nothing showed up on ouya. After fiddling the USB drive and pushing in a bit more, the drive showed up. I realised that any USB I try I have to insert it and fiddle it till it gets a connection and carefully leave it at that angle otherwise it wont detect.
Anyone else facing same issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats an interesting find, Ive been having a hard time getting the ouya to pick up my seagate backup plus 3tb. Its formatted to ntfs though Im not sure if android supports +2tb drives.
tennisbgc said:
Thats an interesting find, Ive been having a hard time getting the ouya to pick up my seagate backup plus 3tb. Its formatted to ntfs though Im not sure if android supports +2tb drives.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All I tried so far is a FAT32 formatted 16gb USB drive and a USB keyboard. Will try out my 2tb hdd today and let you know if it picks up.
my usb kind of slip and slides out.
its not a tight fit at all, rather loose.
r_idn said:
my usb kind of slip and slides out.
its not a tight fit at all, rather loose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There have been quite a few HW issues (controllers, fan noise, USB, WiFi). People like us (xda folk) can tolerate some of these things, but this stuff is completely unacceptable to the general public. They need to fix this stuff.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
tennisbgc said:
Thats an interesting find, Ive been having a hard time getting the ouya to pick up my seagate backup plus 3tb. Its formatted to ntfs though Im not sure if android supports +2tb drives.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
android doesn't natively support ntfs in the first place. Samsung and a few other phone/tablet manufacturers add their own ntfs drivers but android on its own doesn't have them and the license for a company to add them is quite expensive (ntfs is patented and needs licensing from Microsoft) so I doubt the ouya has the drivers.
The usb issue sounds like a dodgy connection between the socket and motherboard, most likely a broken solder join (applying pressure as you are will cause further damage btw). An email to ouya support might be in order. Or if you are brave a quick session with a soldering iron should have it sorted easily.
Loose connector can also be fixed by applying pressure to the topside of the socket to bend it inwards but you can do more harm than good, an email might be an idea again.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
android doesn't natively support ntfs in the first place. Samsung and a few other phone/tablet manufacturers add their own ntfs drivers but android on its own doesn't have them and the license for a company to add them is quite expensive (ntfs is patented and needs licensing from Microsoft) so I doubt the ouya has the drivers.
The usb issue sounds like a dodgy connection between the socket and motherboard, most likely a broken solder join (applying pressure as you are will cause further damage btw). An email to ouya support might be in order. Or if you are brave a quick session with a soldering iron should have it sorted easily.
Loose connector can also be fixed by applying pressure to the topside of the socket to bend it inwards but you can do more harm than good, an email might be an idea again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So what file system other than fat32 does android support cause I was kinda annoyed when my ext3 drives didnt get recognized, I thought they would have drivers for them since its a linux format. So far I've been able to get fat32 and ntfs to work.
tennisbgc said:
So what file system other than fat32 does android support cause I was kinda annoyed when my ext3 drives didnt get recognized, I thought they would have drivers for them since its a linux format. So far I've been able to get fat32 and ntfs to work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's where some of the advantages of custom kernels come in. They can add support for more filesystems
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
mybook4 said:
That's where some of the advantages of custom kernels come in. They can add support for more filesystems
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
wish I had the smarts to install one on the ouya
tennisbgc said:
wish I had the smarts to install one on the ouya
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We don't have a custom kernel yet. When we do, it's pretty straightforward to do in recovery.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
tennisbgc said:
So what file system other than fat32 does android support cause I was kinda annoyed when my ext3 drives didnt get recognized, I thought they would have drivers for them since its a linux format. So far I've been able to get fat32 and ntfs to work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FAT16? Thats pretty much it. Ext3 drives do work on android but I think some root + terminal usage is needed first. ExFat and NTFS are both patented so arent guaranteed to work on all devices unless the manufacturer has licensed the patent, technically custom roms adding support for these filesystems would be in violation of the law but I doubt M$ would bother chasing it up.
My usb port its working well. I bough an usb hub with 5 ports and also works too. Now i have connected 2 memory sticks, cable keyboard, cable mouse and 360 xbox controller
This usb hub doesnt need to be outpowered, the own usb port into ouya handles with it without problem
Does anyone know what exact steps I need to follow to get one of theese apps to work? I plan on rooting the ouya I just want to know what I would need to install. https://play.google.com/store/apps/...1bGwsMSwyLDYsImNvbS5rd3VsbC5udGZzbW91bnRlciJd https://play.google.com/store/apps/...251bGwsMSwxLDEwOSwibmV0LnNoYWp1bC51c2JvdGciXQ.. and would these apps work in mounting ext3?
tennisbgc said:
Does anyone know what exact steps I need to follow to get one of theese apps to work? I plan on rooting the ouya I just want to know what I would need to install. https://play.google.com/store/apps/...1bGwsMSwyLDYsImNvbS5rd3VsbC5udGZzbW91bnRlciJd https://play.google.com/store/apps/...251bGwsMSwxLDEwOSwibmV0LnNoYWp1bC51c2JvdGciXQ.. and would these apps work in mounting ext3?
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You don't need that app. From skimming the page I think ouya already does all of that out of the box. Read through the threads about file format compatibility.
Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
TadeoNYC said:
You don't need that app. From skimming the page I think ouya already does all of that out of the box. Read through the threads about file format compatibility.
Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
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Click to collapse
not ext3
tennisbgc said:
Thats an interesting find, Ive been having a hard time getting the ouya to pick up my seagate backup plus 3tb. Its formatted to ntfs though Im not sure if android supports +2tb drives.
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I have my 2TB NTFS drive running properly on my ouya but you need 2 things to make it work.
First you have to root your ouya second you need an app called "stickmount".
There are other apps that should work but stickmount works great for me.
ineedaname said:
I have my 2TB NTFS drive running properly on my ouya but you need 2 things to make it work.
First you have to root your ouya second you need an app called "stickmount".
There are other apps that should work but stickmount works great for me.
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Click to collapse
yeah I can get up to 2tb working fine with ouya just not above that. Not sure if android is cappable of mounting 3tb+ drives
USB Fix
Hi, I'm not sure how common this problem is. but, here's what fixed me.
First off I emailed OUYA support:
They replied to update firmware and test with wired mouse at "play" screen. at that point if the mouse does not work, you have verified there is a problem with the port itself.
Their next suggestion was to return it to the store where I bought it.
So, Naturally, I took it apart:
BEFORE YOU CONTINUE:: look at the usb port on your assembled console. inside you will see 2 prongs along the inside. they provide the required tension to keep good contact on the 4 usb connections and serve as a ground. Try using a small exacto knife, screw driver, or even a toothpick to bend them in a tiny bit. you want it feel snug when you inset a usb device. Not Tight, you shouldn't have to force it, but it shouldn't feel loose.
IF THAT FIXED YOUR PROBLEM:: then... go have fun! otherwise, read on.
SIDENOTE:: you might want to mark/note the orientation of the the console lid before removing, it's not overly obvious which way it goes on at reassembly.
The USB is part of a USB HDMI unijack, soldered onto the board.
SIDENOTE:: The board is grounded to the frame via a stamped metal prong that acts like a latch preventing you from removing the board. Do yourself a favor, use flashlight, don't break the prong.
Once, you have it out the solder joints you are concerned with are the 4 larger ones in a row (not the 4 that ground the housing of the unijack)
After re-soldering those 4 I can use a 16GB ntfs no problem.
None of my USB Storage Drives would work! My PSx Controller did though.
It required a Factory Reset. Now all my drives are working as they should.
There is a FAT32 format tool posted over in the Ouya Forums:
http://ouyaforum.com/showthread.php?3589-Formatting-Hard-Drive-to-FAT32&p=35834&viewfull=1#post35834
Format your drive using that tool. If that doesn't work, Factory Reset and try again.
Hello! Been lurking for a while and just finally decided to post.
A little background: My first Kindle Fire 2 was rooted just fine. Everything worked for several months, then the screen went bad. Called Amazon and got a replacement sent over. The night I received said replacement, I decided that I wanted to try the 2nd bootloader + TWRP and install CyanogenMod. Unfortunately, I missed the part about reverting back to the older version of the bootloader before patching. Oops.
TLDR; Bricked KF2.
That brings me to the main focus of this topic: After reading a plethora of threads stating that there was no way to fix a bricked KF2 with the USB, I began thinking... Theoretically speaking, couldn't the e-MMC be accessed if it was taken out and mounted to an e-MMC to USB? This would allow reflashing the partitions and (hopefully) returning it to an unbricked state. Of course, that means remounting the e-MMC to the KF2 motherboard, but you can do wonders with a stencil, some solder paste, and a toaster oven, it seems.
Then, while searching for a good e-MMC to USB adapter, I stumbled across a very intriguing thread on hacking TomToms' NAV3 where the e-MMC is left on the device and wired to a MMC USB reader. Page 36 and 37 are the useful bits. (I can't post links yet, so this is the best to demonstrate): mobilescommunity.com/tomtom-discussions/178770-nav3-cracking-patching-copying-navcore-v10-v11-v12-36.html
At this point, I'm just waiting on an old, broken KF1 to arrive to track down where the leads go and possible solder points. I'll keep you posted as things progress.
Any comments, thoughts, suggestions?
P.S. I have a feeling that this would be better suited in the development forum, but as I am new, I can't post there. Assuming that this crazy idea actually works, (and considering that I'll probably have ten posts by then), I'll likely post a clean guide over on that forum.
i had my already taken apart cause of a broken screen, and one is for sure, there was no e-MMC or anything that you could take out and put into an adapter :\
I think you are not out of luck! Are you getting a red screen or is evrything dead?
Completely dead.
...and there is an e-MMC. On my KF2, it was under a piece of foam. If you look at it like you just took off the back cover (without moving the motherboard) from the bottom (the side with the usb port) it's on the right lower portion of the motherboard. It's a Samsung chip, KLM8G2FE3B-B001. There's also a line of solder points just below it. It looks like a decent number of the pins (which we can't see because it's a surface mount) go to that bank of solder points.
Since I still can't post real links/pictures: tinypic.com/r/20hppw5/5
Image credit: iFixit.
That picture is the motherboard from a KF1, but it's in the same location. It's the chip outlined in red.
Just a little update... Have a junk motherboard, the e-MMC is off, now I'm just tracking down where the pins go and possible solder points. It looks like the motherboard has exposed pads that will work well for soldering (my guess is they were originally access points for board/component testing?). I'll post again when I have more info.
Another update: I've tracked down solder points for DAT0-7, CMD, and CLK. I just need to track down the voltage (Vcc and Vss) and grounds (VccQ and VssQ). After that, I'll have pictures with it labelled. Then I need to work on soldering to said points and attaching them to a MMC reader, and praying that it works.
Hmm well if you can get your PC to recognize the emmc, with what I'm assuming is going to be Linux because of the fact the filesystem is ext4 on kindles last I checked, I'm curious if the modules that Linux have will recognize the device. If it does I wonder if u can simply use dd to flash the messed up partitions with the correct signed replacements. I wish I had your solder skills... I need a new tip for mine but I'm too lazy to go out and get one, much less do soldering on a kindle motherboard. If this works u could offer repair services to people, because I doubt most people would attempt this. I find this thread very interesting!
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire HD running CM10.1 Tablet UI using xda-developers app
Then good luck to you!
Hopefuly we will have an unbrick method...
Finished tracking down solder points. Attached are some pictures with them labelled. I'll be working on the actual soldering and connecting it to my computer in the next few days here as my mini-vacation is over and I have to go back to work tonight.
So! I have good news. I soldered everything together and plugged it in. Ubuntu auto-mounted all the partitions from the e-MMC! I'll post pictures on Friday as I'm about to take a nap before spending the next 24 hours at work.
I have a couple minutes on break, so I'm uploading a screenshot of Ubuntu with the partitions mounted. All my pictures of the board/SD card reader and solder job are on my camera at home, so I'll post those later.
Note: The partitions are on the bottom left of the window, the 17 MB one through the 929 MB one. Once I track down which one is the boot partition, I'm going to rewrite it with the original boot image and pray that has fixed the problem.
Wow this is awesome, I am very impressed at this. Now to just use dd to shove the boot loader down the emmc's throat. I wonder does linux recognize the fact that any of the partitions are signed in like gparted under a partitions properties? Not sure if u have gparted installed, probably have to install it from the repos. Also kinda curious about the partition layout as to how everything is ordered on the emmc, as gparted shows.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire HD running CM10.1 Tablet UI using xda-developers app
stunts513 said:
Wow this is awesome, I am very impressed at this.
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Click to collapse
Thanks! Assuming this works, I'm thinking of designing a solder-less device to make all the connections. Soldering to those tiny pads on the motherboard was a pain!
stunts513 said:
I wonder does linux recognize the fact that any of the partitions are signed in like gparted under a partitions properties?
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Is it the partition itself that's signed, or the boot files?
stunts513 said:
Also kinda curious about the partition layout as to how everything is ordered on the emmc, as gparted shows.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a really good idea. I'll make sure to take a screenshot of the partitions in gparted when I have a chance to work on it some more on Friday.
From what I understand not all, but some of the partitions are signed, like the boot loader, they have a 64kb signature in the partitions header if I remember correctly. That's also the reason we can't fix the device when we brick the boot loader, because these things show up as omap devices and we have the means to use that device and try to fix it, but we can't fix it because the initial file it loads up has to be signed. Your fix is kinda unorthodox, but hey, whatever works.:thumbup:bet amazon didn't think people would go this far to fix it. Heck technically if this works you could probably root it in this manor even if an exploit wasn't viable. Anyways for more I to on what I was talking about read q2, q3, and q4 of this post: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2228539
I personally want to look into why we can't just hex edit a image that's unsigned to clone a signed images signature, but I don't feel like opening up 2 huge files in a hex editor to compare the differences to see how the signature is in the file, not to me took that would be next to impossible I think since it would be difficult to try to make a partition exactly like the one on the kindle minus a signature (because even if u copied the files over, they wouldn't necessarily be in the stored in the exact same sectors of a partition), making it even more complicated for me to see the actual signature. Soupemagnet said this is impossible to do already and he knows what he's talking about so i seriously doubt I could do this.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire HD running CM10.1 Tablet UI using xda-developers app
stunts513 said:
I personally want to look into why we can't just hex edit a image that's unsigned to clone a signed images signature, but I don't feel like opening up 2 huge files in a hex editor to compare the differences to see how the signature is in the file
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Click to collapse
I'd venture an (un)educated guess that TI considered this sort of tampering and the header is essentially an encrypted checksum for the image. That would make sense when you consider the need for proprietary software to "generate" a signed header.
An interesting idea while we're going down this road... I'd think the only thing that prevents us from brute-forcing (through trial and error) our way to some sort of method of generating the signed headers is that an attempt could only be made once (assuming an incorrect algorithm) before you'd end up with a paperweight, meaning up until now you'd need a LOT of Kindles to even hope to get close; however, assuming that what I'm working on works to restore the KF2 to functioning, one could rig up a port to reflash the image (with a header generated with a new algorithm each time) until either you wore out the e-MMC or you managed upon one that worked.
Perhaps we could run the idea by soupmagnet and see what he thinks?
Yea that's an interesting idea, I have no idea how u could generate headers to try to forge what the kindle has though, and I'm assuming if it is a 64kb signature, that is a huge amount of combinations. I'm assuming figuring out how to make a signed image is similar to how some key generators are made that take a activation code and spit put another code for you to use. Though I have no idea how they figure out the common denominators for making a code based on such. Its one thing in simple math but to do it to strings of letters and numbers is beyond me. Luckily we have several partitions for reference, if it was just one we'd be pretty screwed, assuming I have any idea what I'm talking about. Feel free to run the idea by him, I chatted with him before a little about something like this in some PM's.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire HD running CM10.1 Tablet UI using xda-developers app
kurohyou said:
I'd venture an (un)educated guess that TI considered this sort of tampering and the header is essentially an encrypted checksum for the image. That would make sense when you consider the need for proprietary software to "generate" a signed header.
An interesting idea while we're going down this road... I'd think the only thing that prevents us from brute-forcing (through trial and error) our way to some sort of method of generating the signed headers is that an attempt could only be made once (assuming an incorrect algorithm) before you'd end up with a paperweight, meaning up until now you'd need a LOT of Kindles to even hope to get close; however, assuming that what I'm working on works to restore the KF2 to functioning, one could rig up a port to reflash the image (with a header generated with a new algorithm each time) until either you wore out the e-MMC or you managed upon one that worked.
Perhaps we could run the idea by soupmagnet and see what he thinks?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's say you are able to restore the device every time you brick it. In order for brute force to work, you would need to be able to flash the image, attempt to boot, restore the device when it fails, create a new disk.img while somehow generating a new signature for it, flash that one, etc....and it all has to be done automatically.
Putting that aside for a moment, there's a lot of speculation online about how long it will actually take to brute force just a simple 128bit encryption key. I've seen everything from several years to several hundred years. Multiply that by about 500 and you'll have an idea of the amount of time it would take to brute force a 64Kb signature, and that's without having to repack, flash, restore, etc. for every single iteration....so I highly doubt a brute force attack is even feasible in this situation.
You should probably just focus on getting the device restored so you can have yourself a little side business of restoring hard bricked 2nd generation Kindle Fires...although, it would be extremely nice if you shared with the community how you were able to do so...if you are ever successful that is.
soupmagnet said:
Let's say you are able to restore the device every time you brick it. In order for brute force to work, you would need to be able to flash the image, attempt to boot, restore the device when it fails, create a new disk.img while somehow generating a new signature for it, flash that one, etc....and it all has to be done automatically.
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Click to collapse
Sounds like a lot of work; although, I didn't expect anything less.
soupmagnet said:
Putting that aside for a moment, there's a lot of speculation online about how long it will actually take to brute force just a simple 128bit encryption key. I've seen everything from several years to several hundred years. Multiply that by about 500 and you'll have an idea of the amount of time it would take to brute force a 64Kb signature, and that's without having to repack, flash, restore, etc. for every single iteration....so I highly doubt a brute force attack is even feasible in this situation.
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What, you're telling me that cracking the encryption in a few million years from now wouldn't be useful?
It probably didn't help that in my sleep-deprived state last night, I failed to differentiate between 64kb and 64bit. Oops.
soupmagnet said:
You should probably just focus on getting the device restored
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Click to collapse
That's always been the focus, but I also figured that while we're here discussing things (and with confirmed access to the e-MMC now), why stop with just the basic restore to working when there's the possibility of more?
soupmagnet said:
although, it would be extremely nice if you shared with the community how you were able to do so...if you are ever successful that is.
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Of course I'm going to share! As soon as I finish the last few steps here and confirm that it's working, I'm going to post a guide over on the Development forum. I don't know how many people will be comfortable with the soldering part, though. It was a beast trying to solder to the motherboard. I do plan on trying to develop a solderless method, probably by fabricating a board that connects to all the important points and secures to the motherboard itself (probably using the screw holes).
Some more images, now that I'm home.
Here's what everything looks liked when it's soldered together:
Here it is connected to the computer:
...and finally, a screenshot of the partitions in gparted:
Sweet, didn't realize how many partitions the kindle had. So now all we need to figure out is which partition of those is the bootloader partition, so u can try flashing the boot loader with the dd command. Might I suggest backing up the entire emmc device with dd instead of just some of the partitions? Also was wondering if all goes well, if the kfhd's emmc pin layout is the same, be nice if a solderless bolt on version could be truly "universal" for all kindles, shape wise it wouldn't be a problem as long as the bolt-on-board has multiple hole configurations.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire HD running CM10.1 Tablet UI using xda-developers app