AS ALWAYS I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR WHAT YOU CHOOSE TO DO WITH YOUR PERSONAL DEVICE, PERIOD.
Battery Calibration and Other Tips from RealPariah
To save space on the post I am moving to spoiler type Q/A. Just click the SHOW CONTENT button for a given guide or answer to show the related information
Folks seem to keep asking a lot of the same questions so I have begun this thread at first to answer the Battery Calibration [Manually] and now I am going to keep adding things I find users keep asking about. Hopefully this will help alleviate the Dev Threads and please feel free to Link here in ROM directions I will try to break up things in to posts so you can link to a certain post for a certain item.
RealPariah's Manual Battery Calibration Methods
First is just whenever; Below that will be how to calibrate on flash of new ROM.
When I talk of charging it is highly highly recommended you use the AC adaptor and charge with phone off for absolute best results.
Calibrate Anytime
[Reminder: To save space on the post I am moving to spoiler type Q/A. Just click the SHOW CONTENT button right below to see the steps in battery calibration]
-> Charge phone to 100%
-> Restart phone [to be sure it isn't off by some amount (if phone off just unplug AC adapter for 30 secs and plug back in)]
-> Wait 20 min after you are sure it is 100% (phone should stay plugged in)
-> Boot in to recovery
-> wipe battery stats (advanced)
-> Get ready to pull battery and unplug phone and do so after the screen goes black after tapping restart device (pull AC adaptor first)
-> Wait 30 seconds and replace battery
-> Allow phone to boot
-> run through ENTIRE CHARGE (COMPLETELY DISCHARGE) the battery (whether normal usage or looped media files whatever you have time for)
-> restart phone to be sure it is totally dead
-> Charge fully one more time
You should be good to go!
Just remember it may take several days for phone to generate statistics and for this to fully settle in.
Calibrate Battery at ROM Install
Just be sure your battery to 100% as above and wipe battery stats right before you flash ROM zip.
Then be sure to fully kill the device and do one full phone off charge
You should be good to go!
as above it takes several days for battery stays to fully generate and settle in!
Hope they helps, and in my multiple tests seems to really make sure you get best performance!
Device: Samsung Tmobile S2 [SGH-T989]
ROM: Paranoid Android 2.52
Tweak Script: Newest Supercharger V6 with modified services.jar+KaK+3G Turbo Boost
Battery Calibration and other USEFUL ANDROID INFORMATION as answers to repeated ??s
JB AND ICS ROM Installation Procedure [or any ROM really]
**If You Follow the steps below it should clear any residual files and should leave you with a totally blank slate for the ROM to install on. So, be sure to do Nandroid and/or Titanium Backup as your scenario dictates**
First, to be thorough you should have 100% battery before flashing for best battery life.
Supplies:(links will be added)
Darkside Cache Wipe [OPTIONAL]
Darkside Super Wipe Script[Optional if using CWM more mandatory if using TWRP but it can be optional]
Kernel Cleanser Script [Very optional and only needed if you change kernels a lot and worry about residual files really]
Fix Permissions V2 by Minotauri Zip [yes v2 and v3 are different get v2]
Fix Permissions V3 Zip [edified again by Minotauri] [OPTIONAL]
*NEW* SEE Section BELOW INSTALL STEPS FOR HOW TO CHECK A ZIP FILES MD5 Signature via an ANDROID PHONE
ROM Installation Guide
Download The ROM of your choice using your WiFi Connection or Transfer it from your computer. Do not use the cell data connection [E, 3g, 4g] as there are more errors in data downloads this way. Also, some users report that they get the best results when they save the things they flash to their External SDCards. Myself, I use either the Internal Storage [EMMC] or the External SDCard interchangeably.
Reboot Phone in to Recovery
Choose Wipe Dalvick Cache [Advanced Menu]
Back at Main Menu, Tap Mounts and Storage
Tap to Wipe /cache /data and /system [Do each twice in a row]
Back at Main Menu Tap Install From SDCard and choose where you saved the kernel cleanser script and tap it to flash it [I suggest 2x again]
Do same thing for Darkside Superwipe Script [2x]
Restart Recovery [Advanced Menu]
Install From SD choosing your ROM zip file (just as above script zips)
Restart Device and allow to boot [skip account setup for now if it prompts we'll come back] wait 3 min from initial lock screen if unsure.
Restart in to Recovery
Clear Cache [Main Menu] and Dalvick Cache [Advanced Menu]
*(NEW) You can use Darkside Cache wipe here you should not need to clear any caches or to run fix perms separately if you flash Darkside cache wipe skip the above line, flash add-ons as stated in line below AND THEN flash darkside cache wipe (you can manually also skip cache wipes until after add-ons are installed the point is you clear both caches [before or after add-ons] and fix perms AFTER installing everything so adjust according to your tastes
Install any add-ons like super user, toggle zip installing custom radio and kernel last in that order [if nothing to add no worries that's cool]
Install From SDCard and find Fix Permissions v2 and flash it
or if you wish substitute Darkside cache wip here again subbing out the line right above this text
Restart Device and allow to boot [we cleared Dalvick Cache so yes it will be another longer boot]
You are done [unless you choose to fix ROM Manager so it doesn't freeze partially through fixing permissions while OS is running, but totally optional] Skip to Notes below and onward if not wanting ROM Manager fix
[OPTIONAL For ROM Manager FIX]
Once phone boots install [if it was not already apart of the ROM] ROM Manager [Premium License install will not affect anything do it now or later either way works]
Restart Device in to recovery
Flash the Fix Permissions V3 [YES VERSION 3 THIS TIME (Won't be needed again after this unless you install a new ROM, or uninstall ROM Manager when you re-install run this again) Just Like you installed the Zips above]
Once Done, Restart Device and let it fully boot and settle [give it 10 min after seeing initial lockscreen if unsure]
Open ROM Manager and Tap the Fix Permissions shortcut and let it do it's magic and it should not freeze on you now [best practice is to keep screen on in ICS it appears ICS sleeps deeper than GB and some apps haven't corrected for this so they stop processing just because device is in deep sleep not because the script is in error!]
DONE, Notes:
This method seems to ensure the best installation of ROM with least chance of cross contamination from the previous resident. I do find rarely even with this method I have to do this whole thing 2x in a row. This can happen when the data is transferred to the phone during install even if you do everything right. Once you run through it once or twice it gets easy and just throw those scripts and current ROM zip on Internal Storage if you find flashes from there work for you, because you should NEVER format EMMC [Internal Storage] as this will brick your phone [recoverable if you send it to Samsung or buy a $150 box and take your phone apart to connect it up [or if lucky know someone you trust that has one]]; and therefore as long as you have that and access to recovery you can flash your phone.
New Addition 2012.07.10
UPGRADING YOUR ROM WITHOUT WIPING USER DATA AND APPS!
This can only be done when upgrading from a previous to a new version of of your current ROM OR if you go from a ROM's base to the ROM [ie Paranoid Android is based on CM10 and you should be able to install Paranoid if you have CM10 without formatting your storage. This does also include how many changes exist between your current version and the one you are installing [ie you have Paranoid 2.2 installed and you try to install 2.52 you are more apt to have issues and/or errors than if you went from 2.51 to 2.52, so I can't account for EVERY scenario, use your best judgement please]. If this is your FIRST FLASH OF CM9 FOLLOW ABOVE INSTRUCTIONS AND USE TITANIUM BACKUP OR LIKE APP TO CARRY OVER USER APPS ONLY!
*BEFORE THE POSTING BEGINS YES I HAVE TESTED THIS USING NIGHTLY BUILDS AND HAVE DONE THIS OH ONLY ABOUT 12 TIMES IN THE LAST 14 DAYS! IT WORKS EVERY TIME!* I have also done this with both Clockwork Recovery 5.0.2.7 AND Clockwork TOUCH RECOVERY 5.8.1.3. I have not tried and will not risk using the Open Source Recovery [you can tell you are using it if the touch buttons are up and down and the enter key on the bottom of LCD screen and Clockwork Touch is the one the menu options themselves are tappable [If not sure install ROM Manager and have it install one or the other]]
Supplies
---------
** = Required
* = Optional
[/I]** You can use ROM Manager to Download the ROM file just don't have it start the flashing process automatically.
You can also visit Cyanogen Download Page
If you Happen to use the T-Mobile Galaxy S2 so do I so here is a direct link: Cyanogen T-Mobile S2 Download Section
** GApps
Click the top-most link labeled for CyanogenMod 9.0.x in the table at top of the page
* Chainfire SuperSU
I recommend Chainfire SuperSU as opposed to Original SuperUser included in CM9. It has some extra features, and its binary has been built better soo far. Well, Original Super User USED to Seg Fault All over ICS, but that has been fixed in the newest release. Chainfire has been built MUCH more recently geared towards ICS moreso [it works in Gingerbread just fine too] so I have stuck with it. If you like it PLEASE donate by buying SuperSU Pro on market. It is not my product, but it is well worth checking out and donating to if you find it useful.
Upgrade Guide
NOTE: It usually takes until AFTER the SDCard checks run through [2 if you installed ext SD] before the cell data even starts to connect, be PATIENT. If you have BEEN PATIENT AND ARE SURE THE RADIO IS ACTING UP FOLLOW ABOVE INSTRUCTIONS TO FLASH A ROM FROM SCRATCH [I recommend Paranoid Android].
Upgrading From a previous CM9 version to a Newer one
Gather the files you downloaded above and throw them on either your internal storage or your SDCard either will do just fine, just make 'em easy to find.
Don't forget to run the MD5 check as explained BELOW to ensure no data corruption during file download if you choose to do so.
FIRST RUN A NANDROID BACKUP [boot in to recovery, and use the backup feature provided in Recovery Menu] Step-by-Step Procedure on that coming soon . Of course, if you are an advanced user and do not feel this is needed then skip it, but if not is saving a few minutes skipping it worth rebuilding all your apps and settings if something goes wrong? You decide ...
Boot In To Recovery [Hold middle of Vol buttons so both are in while powering on and release them as soon as you see first Samsung Logo]
Now This is the order I do things, if you are comfortable or as you get comfortable you can change up exact order
Clear Cache [Main Menu]
Clear Dalvick Cache [Advanced Menu]
Now You can either go in to Mounts and Storage and Format the System Partition for a safer flash [I found not doing this on some Nightlys caused the touch screen to stop responding a lot, now that does seem to be fixed, just noting this incase you start wondering why the power, and vol keys work but the screen stops paying attention to you and how I fixed it go back in to recovery Wipe Storage and flash again from start [meaning dont skip re-flashing the following things as mentioned]]
Go to Install Zip from SDCard and Navigate to the CM Nightly you downloaded and flash it [remember to choose internal storage or SDCard as it applies to where you saved the files
WITHOUT RESTARTING
Install Zip and Now choose the Gapps zip [no worries your account info is retained but still flash it or Market and other Gapps will fail to work]
WITHOUT RESTARTING
IF you CHOSE to use Chainfire; Install Zip and Now choose the SuperSU zip
Now Run Fix Permissions [in Advanced Menu] IT WORKS FROM RECOVERY WITHOUT A FLASH PACK WHEN USING CM Based ROMs! [When they are installed to begin with if this is your FIRST CM flash then it still will bomb out and not run right] You can also skip this again if comfortable doing so
Once you are done those cache wipes and installs now Restart...
Be patient as anytime you wipe the Dalvick Cache you are on the hook for a LONG boot [~5 min]
Once the OS loads and you give it the 10 min to settle in and setup stats and all that background stuff [again use your judgement if comfortable skipping this]
Be sure to Open SuperSU from App Drawer and tap the button to update the binary when the pop-up prompts you to do so [if you did decide to use it]
Now you are good to go!
Now, THIS WAY you don't have to restore any USER APPs OR DATA [if you didn't wipe System before flash MOST of those settings should remain as well] and you only have your system settings to worry about!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How To Run MD5 Check on Downloaded Zips Before Flashing
Screenshots will be added also (please bear with me as I have time). This will be via phone so it helps the most people it can I will add a Windows version as well soon, but this will work even if you have no computer.
Supplies and the Basics
An Android Phone
An MD5 checking App [I will use Android File Verifier (AFV) which is free and available on market and free]
A Zip to verify and
a known MD5 number for the zip [usually posted as a line of text with zip (something like MD5: MD5-NUMBER-WHICH-IS-MIX-OF-LETTERS-AND-NUMBERS (Hexadecimal) in thread near download zip [or sometimes changelogs] just copy it to a text file or bookmark thread to refer back once we generate the MD5 signature on the file when we complete downloading it.
Checking a Downloaded Zip's MD5 Signature on an Android Device Guide
[ANY ROM doesn't need to be specifically Gingerbread or ICS]
-> Download Zip you wish to check to some form of storage [Internal or External SD or even USB drive if you have USB host support and adapter doesn't matter where as long as you have enough storage to store the downloaded file.
-> Open Market and Install Android File Verifier [AFV]
-> If first install of AFV then click on return button on pop-up to see main window
-> Now, tap Select File and navigate to where you saved your zip
-> LONGPRESS the zip file [or any really] you want to check and choose calculate MD5 signature from the menu
-> Wait while it calculates the MD5 signature [this takes roughly 2 min with a 275MB ROM zip]
-> Once it is done you will see pop-up stating it is done, what the MD5 is and if you hit return the main window will now list the last checked zip's location with its MD5 checksum. The App also auto copies the number to your clipboard meaning if you saved the OPs MD5 in to a text file you can re-open it hit enter for a clean line, longpress screen and choose paste and it will paste the MD signature there for you to verify together with original signature.
-> You can go back and hit select file again and repeat for any files you would like and AFV supports following file signatures [incase OP likes to use more accurate checks [the longer the signature the more thorough the check, but also the longer it takes to process a file and generate that check]
AFV Supports FOLLOWING FILE SIGNATURE FORMATS:
* MD-5
* SHA-1
* Jar signing
* Verify Nandroid [MD-5]
* SHA-224
* SHA-256 [what I normally use to generate signatures when I release zips as it is more thorough than MD-5]
* SHA-512
Device: Samsung Tmobile S2 [SGH-T989]
ROM: Newest Paranoid Android [Currently 2.52]
Tweak Script: Newest Supercharger V6 with modified services.jar+KaK+3G Turbocharger
FAQs and Links to Other Useful Informational Threads
[size ="3"] How do I know when it is time to try and recalibrate my battery?
You can tell when if your phone says 0 battery and shuts down yet you can still power it on for any length of time. Basically, the OS uses statistics to judge what the exact battery level is when displaying in status bar as well as when to alert you to low battery. Have you ever gotten low battery warning and then a min later it rebounds and alerts again? I have and that again demonstrates the OS is not always dead on. Also, switching batteries usually aggravated this as well. I have also had users who have used same ROM for long periods of time and it degraded so slowly they hardly noticed then after it is re-calibrated it helps a lot. All that to say there are a few indicators, but using your judgment (*gasp*) if you feel it may be off give this a shot. I do not recommend running it every day or every boot but once every several weeks or roughly 30 charge cycles (whichever comes first (kinda like oil changes in cars use judgment and changing the oil does not mean you gain 100 miles to the gallon poor a million horsepower, you instead website the car (or battery here) is in top shape and runs the best it can.
Everyone keeps asking me to search for my questions/answers before posting but that is a lot of scrolling, how do I save time searching for the information I need?
CTRL+F [Windows or Linux] or Command Key+F [OS X] should allow you to search the webpage currently in view [all text not just what you can see, but all text on page period]
OR using:
" Site:forums.xda-developers.com" (without quotes unless you want the results to include every word just how you typed it search to be in the results shown, also, try different variations of your error or question not just a long written out sentence) at http://www.google.com and this will limit your results to only those pages on xda forums (you could copy/paste URL from inside any sub-forum to further limit searches [i.e. site:http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1332 would limit you to the Galaxy S2 T989 DEV forum only for results]
What is with some ROMs asking for me to use CWM Touch [OR NON-Touch]?
I have been using CWM Touch latest for sometime [Current: 5.8.1.3] (being since it first released)
and I have used it to flash EVERYTHING whether it is a Gingerbread or ICS ROM whether the thread said not to or to specifically use Touch doesn't matter.
Also, I can flash anything from either internal or external SD with really no difference [I seem to get an occasional flash error via external SD and have to flash a 2nd time but I use an old SD so prolly more the cells slowly going]
From my own testing it seems to be either user error or bad flash [keep in mind EVEN if you download the file right and it is read right sometimes you can have a bad flash because during the file copy process a random hiccup happened so rarely RARELY I have to re-flash and/or re-download the zip. JUST BE SURE TO DOWNLOAD ALL ZIPs VIA WIFI YOU INTEND TO FLASH as this will have less errors during data transfers as opposed to a cellular data connection like 4G. You could also use an MD5 signature checker [versions for android and desktop pcs are available easily by searching] and if OP posts MD5 signature you can verify your download before you even try to flash which can help. Of course MD5 checks on the phone will most likely take longer than if you use a computer, but if on comp be sure TO COPY ZIP TO SOME KIND OF PHONE STORAGE BEFORE CHECKING MD5 AS THE XFER FROM THE COMPUTER TO THE PHONE COULD CAUSE AN ERROR NOT CAUGHT IF YOU RUN MD5 CHECK BEFORE COPYING ZIP TO THE PHONE. I will be posting a quick how to check MD5 guide hopefully today.
After I Install my New ROM I am getting errors no one else seems to have, WHAT GIVES?!
I keep seeing users say I have FCs all this stuff doesn't work, while in OP it clearly states all the issues they post of are all working. In my experience of helping users in these spots one of the following is normally to blame...
>> Did you Download ROM over WiFi Only? If No, you need to do so it causes less errors in file to download via WiFi and not Cellular Data [2g, 3g, 4g, etc.]
>> Did You Run MD5 Check on ROM ZIP AFTER download? If No, You really should even if using WiFi only you could possibly have a transfer error [rare but happens due to many factors]. I have posted guide below install steps on how to verify MD5 on downloaded files
>> Did you use Kernel Cleanser, Darkside Super Wipe, and Fix Permissions v2 [my flash zip]? If NO, You really need to follow the guide and be sure you fully wipe data [DO NOT WIPE EMMC OR INTERNAL SD PERIOD] FULLY [just hitting format won't do it especially if installing ICS, hopefully will change soon, but until then you need a clean slate to install ANY ICS ROM EVER, YES EVEN UPGRADES].
>> Did you skip restart allow boot THEN Restart in to recovery Clear Dalvick cache and cache run fix perms v2 and restart? IF YES, you should stop now and do that restart recovery clear cache, clear Dalvick cache and run fix perms [built-in fix perms wont work must use flash pack]
>> I FOLLOWED Everything and Still have a problem, What now, genius?
Well, sadly, like everything computer and tech SOMETIMES [albeit rare] if you MD5 checked your download and did EVERYTHING right SOMETIMES there may still have been an error when copying files, setting symlinks, or setting permissions during install that while it didn't cause major problem still caused issues. I have had to flash ICS ROMs twice before to get things to fully take [Seems better now on T-mobile based leak than the Skyrocket based leak [imagine that], but can still happen even if EVERYTHING was done right. Just be sure to follow directions again to make sure you didn't gloss over something small and flash again.
I am getting weird errors out of any GAPPS [GMail, GTalk, Market com.google.gapps, etc] After installing a ROM [Darkside evolution is one I BELIEVE], How do I fix that one?
I found that when I removed apks from /system/app in Darkside 2b1 [tw launcher, snstw (twitter) snsli [LinkedIn], Mini Diary, Mini Notes, the Yahoo Stock watching apps, etc] that I got FCs from Google Talk [even though i never touched it, and com.google.gapps [again removed google quick search box but otherwise should never have had an error]. I tried MANY different fixes over many restarts [clear caches fix perms, put the removed apps back everything].
Then I flashed Newest Gapps from http://goo.im/gapps [I believe it is 2012.04.03 [should be newest for CM9 at top of page and no you dont need separate facelock pack as that is included since 2012.0.23 pack so DONT flash facelock ICS labeled pack I had to re-install a different ROM after I accidentally pulled that one myself.
How do I mount my external_sdcard as /sdcard?
I have found the following guide on how to do just that! Mostly useful only if your micro sd is larger than the 11G internal sd the phone already has. As always, be careful, read entire post before starting, run a full nandroid backup. This is not my work, and ask you to thank the OP if you find this useful.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1454753
OH NO, I am getting Bad Connection to Battery Error Messgae [and/or] When in charging screen [phone off battery grapic on display] and I see a yellow caution sign with a broken battery [and in some cases a rapid vibrate] IS MY PHONE DEAD?!
I ran across this myself not too long ago... First the Basics of how/why this happens the the rundown of how I fixed it
How/Why
---
Ok, so you are getting an error message stating bad connection to battery, or your phone is constantly restarting [this is not the only cause] and/or I got a weird yellow caution icon in the charge only screen [the screen seen when phone is off but plugged in to charger] [you may also get a series of quick vibrates as well in charge only screen with this as well].
From my research this seems to be caused by shutdown hangs when phone turns off when OS states 0% battery and goes to auto shutdown [may also happen if like 0 - 1% and you hit shutdown]. When the phone is about dead and goes to shutdown the capacitive lights [that bottom row of menu, home, back, search] stay off. The problem comes in if the ROM you are using hangs during this time. Contrary to popular belief when the OS says 0% and shuts down THIS DOES NOT MEAN THE BATTERY ITSELF IS AT FULLY 0% CHARGE. ANY BATTERY [not taking in to account so new experimental tech that may be out or come along come on lets be reasonable here] CAN NEVER BE TRULY FULLY DRAINED. If this were to occur you would need a special deep trickle charge device to breathe life back in to the battery. So now that's explained...
If shutdown hangs when the battery was already as dead as it can be unless you have that special device if it stays hung then it will very slowly take the battery past this safe point and you run the risk of killing it in such a way you cant revive it with a normal fast charger. Now of course since the phone is in a shutdown state it will hardly use any power at all and this should take hours [if not a couple days; I dunno as I dont want to test this and see how far you can push it] to get to the point of absolutely no return.
So when you go to even plug in to charge Android detects this and assumes the battery is damaged and is truly dead or close to it and warns you.
THE FIX
---
So after that happened when I went ot plug it in to charge the next morning [as I forgot to try to do it before bed and that would have shown a hang and I would have reseated battery and it would have been fine] I got to charge only with the yellow caution symbol and it was constantly quick vibrating so I hurried and pulled the battery and tried to put it back and got no boot vibrate and could not get charge only screen so I called Tmo and went through the motions and they agreed it was the battery and since they only replace phones referred me to Samsung
I called Samsung and to get a new battery they have A CRAZY RMA Policy [to force you to buy a battery rather than get a replacement] where you need the ORIGINAL receipt and then to wait for them to ship you a label [not next day; 5 business days], send it to them, wait for testing, and wait for them to send a new one back [again the SLOW way]. Since I dont have my receipt and refused to wait the crazy 4ish weeks it prolly would turn out to be I called them crazy and hung up. What I did was to leave the battery out of my phone for roughly 12 hours - 1 day [trying to just reseat the battery turned out to do no good the phone would not even boot vibrate even after a couple tries] then when I put it back I got it to boot to charge only screen with the warning and no constant vibrate this time]. I then waited a few min to try and ensure the battery got some charge and then pulled it out and reseated it and plugged phone back in [if you leave charger plugged in phone stays kinda on have to unplug charger AND reseat battery then plug it back in EVERY TIME].
THIS TIME I GOT TO CHARGE ONLY WITH NO WARNINGS! I let it sit for 12 hours [ENSURE it is FULLY CHARGED AS BEST YOU CAN] and I was able to boot the phone. For the next several days I would get random restarts and on occasion I would get an error stating Bad connection to battery. When that happened I had to pull battery reseat it and restart the phone [sometimes a few good times in a row stick with it] and over those few days I CAREFULLY monitored the battery to be sure I did full charge cycles [charged it fully in charge only and as soon as it auto shutdown I made sure to get it RIGHT on the charger [and pulled battery and made sure to see charge only screen to ensure another hang up didnt get me].
After those few days, I felt comfortable to CHARGE IT FULLY IN CHARGE ONLY and ran through calibrating the battery. After the calibration I no longer got random restarts or errors saying Bad Connection to Battery and ever since it has been good to go.
I know that was a little long winded but trying to get all the info in there as I AM NOT TESTING THE CONDITIONS THAT BROUGHT THIS ON TO FURTHER REFINE THE STEPS. Unless someone wants to buy me a couple spare batteries to test this and I know I have a good spare to fall back on.
Device: Samsung Tmobile S2 [SGH-T989]
ROM: Paranoid Android 2.52
Tweak Script: Newest Supercharger V6 with modified services.jar+KaK+3G Turbocharger
Which Android versions? So people aren't confused
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using xda premium
Locksmith81 said:
Which Android versions? So people aren't confused
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All Android versions apply I would specify in title of my thread if it were limited just tailored to be best method with our device regardless of OS as long as you have cwm or most other custom recoveries.
Device: Samsung Tmobile S2 [SGH-T989]
ROM: Yaldak's Vanilla ICS RC2
Radio: Blaze 4g ICS Radio
Tweak Script: Newest Supercharger V6 ICS with modified services.jar
Superchargers 3g turbo boost
(specific T989 pack as next project)
I agree with what Google said about battery calibration and conditioning, it is a placebo effect. I have never calibrated nor conditioned my battery and always get anywhere from 15 hours to 2 days use out of my battery depending on use.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda premium
DannyB513 said:
I agree with what Google said about battery calibration and conditioning, it is a placebo effect. I have never calibrated nor conditioned my battery and always get anywhere from 15 hours to 2 days use out of my battery depending on use.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LoL and if you abuse battery by leaving it plugged in our never fully charging discharging battery and statistics are messed up or a bad flash corrupts them what you get new battery?
All I can say is I have seen huge gains on devices doing this, yes it won't help to do it all the time that is a placebo, but trust me in real world with folks not always using devices per manufacturers guidelines (cough rooting and custom ROMs cough) it can really help.
Trust me I don't post info unless I exhaustively test something and can vouch for results myself on multiple devices and with multiple user feedbacks (just ask mysticfrog if it is worth reading what I post )
To each his own though you don't have to follow my advice if you choose not to I ain't gonna show up at your house or anything )
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
This method works not because u wipe battery stats, but because u reset the battery memory, which is built into the battery itself. Google has confirmed the myth, wipe battery stats simply deletes a bin file that android creates on each reboot that track your app usage per charge, that is all.
It should also be noted that doing the method frequently will actually have ADVERSE affects on your battery. Completely discharging newer lithium batteries can result in dead cells, so be careful.
icenight89 said:
This method works not because u wipe battery stats, but because u reset the battery memory, which is built into the battery itself. Google has confirmed the myth, wipe battery stats simply deletes a bin file that android creates on each reboot that track your app usage per charge, that is all.
It should also be noted that doing the method frequently will actually have ADVERSE affects on your battery. Completely discharging newer lithium batteries can result in dead cells, so be careful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well FYI, there is actually no way to FULLY discharge a battery UNLESS you left it without charging for days or weeks by fully discharging we mean until phone wont turn back on which leaves plenty of charge for a couple weeks still there. If battery EVER FULLY discharged you would need a special deep slow charger to revive it. You can trust I have been on computers and technically minded since I was VERY young [over 20+ years experience in computers and related devices]
Keep in mind Google engineers may not want to say admit there could ever be a battery issue that could be blamed on something like a stats file as that could open them to lawsuits since they do not disclose that at time of sale so sometimes what google may say on something while not an out right lie by any means will be shaded to benefit them every time [they have to make money can't blame them too much ] LLike they just got caught overriding browser privacy settings be exploiting an old loophole in cookie code so even if you said to deny google based cookies they were still getting all the tracking info they needed from you, or in UK [and here but under investigation] when they had the street cars for maps out and got caught gathering unencrypted wireless data to include passwords, emails, internet traffic, etc.] or how they just released that they are now spending 5 BILLION in lobbying in Washington up 5 fold from only a couple years ago. Not trying to say you cant listen to what they have to say just saying maybe you could investigate what they say just like you read my post and were not satisfied and went looking for information.
CORRECT, you wipe the statistics file SAVED ON THE DEVICE that saves your statistical information about your usage as battery charge changes [the file on the battery is actually just for dating, # of charge cycles, and current charge level you cant mess with that]. BUT, the statistics file ON the phone can be erased. By doing this you wipe away the files if they are corrupt OR have outdated information for say a differnt ROM with DIFFERENT usage conditions.
I already said you shouldn't do this everyday there is no gain from that, but if you say are home body and leave it plugged in all day everyday for a month and then go to go on a trip your battery will die too fast as the statistics Android is using are based on being plugged in all the time [NOT RECCOMENDED as again device chargers are fast chargers meaning they throttle between slow and fast charge and you DONT want the top 25% of a battery to be charged quickly as that can really hurt the battery and leaving it plugged in will increase the chances the charger accidentally throttles to fast during a time it should not as time goes on] so you would wipe those and have it restart stats while it is now being used off charger instead of on and that does and will get extra life [not more than the battery is physically capable of just the MAX it is capable of.
The only proof you need is to see when the phone shutsdown saying no more battery and then if you can boot it up and it says 10% left and stays running for another 15 min then the statistics are off and you can reset them to gain that time BACK instead of having the device shutdown earlier than it should have.
Dude I did not say this will give you more battery life than the battery is capable of, it is like chkdsk for your phone as you use NTFS it journals [albeit poorly and half ass] and should not suffer from corruption, BUT users who shutdown the machine incorrectly for instance will find when they run chkdsk on occasion they gain free space back due to errors caused by incorrect usage. The philosophy is the same here.
or EXT3 which is fully journalized should NEVER need to be checked yet they have e2fsck to fix errors due to corruption [again due to incorrect usage [ie forced power outtages that the FS can't account for] because even though it shouldn't happen in the real world nothing goes to plan.
sorry, gotta be said, stupidest post ever, clearing battery stats is pointless, and STORES NO INFORMATION ABOUT CELL CAPACITY/OR ANYTHING OF THE SORT, all that is actually on the board inside the cell.. also, check the location, gets wiped installing a new rom anyways? Also, with cell phones (keyword, CELL) Which use lithium ion cells, there is NO POSSIBLE WAY to "calibrate" the cell through the device, please at least research befor posting "how tos" u more or less are wasting peoples time
@buddy saying killing a lithionum cell will ruin it, also bull****, that. Control board inside is designed to actually stop or "die" around 100mAh meaning its impossible to kill a lithium ion cell without screwing with the board, or leaving it in device, empty, for over 6months.. PLZ PPL, CHECK UR FACTS BEFORE POSTING
doug36 said:
sorry, gotta be said, stupidest post ever, clearing battery stats is pointless, and STORES NO INFORMATION ABOUT CELL CAPACITY/OR ANYTHING OF THE SORT, all that is actually on the board inside the cell.. also, check the location, gets wiped installing a new rom anyways? Also, with cell phones (keyword, CELL) Which use lithium ion cells, there is NO POSSIBLE WAY to "calibrate" the cell through the device, please at least research befor posting "how tos" u more or less are wasting peoples time
@buddy saying killing a lithionum cell will ruin it, also bull****, that. Control board inside is designed to actually stop or "die" around 100mAh meaning its impossible to kill a lithium ion cell without screwing with the board, or leaving it in device, empty, for over 6months.. PLZ PPL, CHECK UR FACTS BEFORE POSTING
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Before being so abrasive, it should also be said that you stated facts without providing correlating evidence. I'm here to learn just like everyone else, and if something was said in error it is only based on information i have read or learned elsewhere. If you look at my thanks meter you will see i am an EXTREMELY helpful user on this forum.
Although uncalled for in the way you stated it, I would be interested to see where you obtained this information. Perhaps some links?
icenight89 said:
Before being so abrasive, it should also be said that you stated facts without providing correlating evidence. I'm here to learn just like everyone else, and if something was said in error it is only based on information i have read or learned elsewhere. If you look at my thanks meter you will see i am an EXTREMELY helpful user on this forum.
Although uncalled for in the way you stated it, I would be interested to see where you obtained this information. Perhaps some links?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am sorry if I hurt you're feelings, I can't account for local customs, I am here to pass along info. When I get time I will post links if needed you can google things like google cookies bypass browser settings, google street car suits, etc to double check me. Right now I have a dislocated ankle and getting dental work done so it may take a day or 2 before I can sit down and index the information for you.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
RealPariah said:
I am sorry if I hurt you're feelings, I can't account for local customs, I am here to pass along info. When I get time I will post links if needed you can google things like google cookies bypass browser settings, google street car suits, etc to double check me. Right now I have a dislocated ankle and getting dental work done so it may take a day or 2 before I can sit down and index the information for you.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not you RealPariah, you posted an informative thread with information based on your testing and results, and nothing is wrong with that, health debate is good and you provided some good arguments. I was making reference to doug36, and his rather uncalled for comments.
This would be what your looking for, quick google search,
Click a result and read the specifications.
http://elithion.com/lithiumate-pro-cell-boards.php
Ofc none really compare to the one in these batteries, but you should get the idea
They all have a preset for min (Isolation voltage apparently xD google rocks)
as other variables, and ofc with OEM cells, and boards,
Are actually able to store a WIDE variety of data to the cell, and the device doesn't have write access to this board...
So how can you calibrate it?
Also, google debunked this a while ago (batterystats)
And stated EXACTLY what its used for IT DOESNT STORE THE CURRENT PERCENT
batterystats.bin is located in "/data/system"
And 99% of roms wipe data/system/cache partition
Last point.
Its deleted/redone on boot, REGARDLESS OF POST STATE
meaning, its new every time anyway.
You are totally missing the point the below copied conversation may help:
The batt stats is a file under data, and it attempts to keep a good record of your usage to accurately predict your battery use. It's good to wipe this, if you're able, every two weeks or so. This file can also get messed up if you flash a rom on a non full battery, hence why battery can be worse after flashing a new rom.
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
Tank, *where* under data do I look for the battery stats - what's it called?
-Mike
It is the batterystats.bin under /data/system.
Oh and yes file is replaced at install and that's what causes you to have to then remove it while battery at totally full so file starts correctly thus fixing the problem. The same goes with usage the file may get corrupted if phone shutdown incorrectly, or app did something, or storage has an issue causing data loss, etc. Or be totally wrong because you swapped out the battery (whether it dies or you have spares what matters is it is a physically different battery you should wipe) and why I posted how to do it best on this phone.
I am not saying you are doing anything to the battery itself. You are working with the Android system and what it is doing (not changing it just restarting it).
I have seen this personally help at least 20 unique Android based devices personally and to varying degrees of success (depends how far off the estimation has gotten) so I know it can help.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
Ok, and u didnt read my post, ITS RECREATED ON BOOT REGARDLESS OF POST STATE,
Try this if you wanna test
Usng root explorer find the file, mod permissions 777 (rwxrwxrwx)
Edit it in text editor probly wont open it all, who cares.
Add anything at top or bottem, save, restore perms, and battery pull
Reboot and see if that lines there.
If it helped some devices it was probably the reboot.
Again please test this if your actually making a "guide".
Also, HOW CAN IF EFFECT A ROM INSTALL IF ITS A SYSTEM FUNCTION AND DOESNT EVEN CALL CURRENT %
Its main purpose is show a timeline in >SETTINGS>APPLICATIONS>battery use (I believe that's wherre) on GB
And >SETTINGS>battery on ics..
the file can't get messed from rom install..
Alls it does in a short sentance:
Stores information regarding uptime/cpu on running APPLICATIONS,not services.
This information is then calculated from the info from the cell board, such as
Max mAh and Isolation voltage, to get a estimation of the percentage of the battery use used by that application
COMPARED WITH THE SYSTEM. This file IN NO WAY DOES ANY SORT OF CALCULATIONS ITSELF
IT IS:
NOT a binary
NOT a configuration
NOT an executable
A list of references that the system should gather calculations for.
Recreated on boot
Read/write on system no perms on group/others
A temp file.
You brought up another useless. point, data corruption from incorrect shut down is rare to say the least that's what buffers are for
Android, like most full OSs (linux also, duh) use multiple countermeasures to stop this
If The system stored the mah levels of the cell WE COULDNT USE EXTENDED BATTERYS
as I said a few posts back RESEARCH BEFORE MAKING STUPID TOPICS
Its not recreated on boot if it were there would be even more problems that file should only be created when battery at 100%.
ALSO CACHES ARE USELESS IF SHUTDOWN INCORRECTLY (power loss due to not enough power a user pulling a battery during a freeze, etc can happen anytime you are thinking of journal which should eliminate errors (in theory) but really only help, if that ass umption were correct (that ext file systems gave no errors) then why does a file system repair tool exist (e2fsck) if errors never needed fixing?
Look you obviously have your head in a book, try something out in practice and stop quoting theory and corporate lackeys I have read all the same things before too. I am not new to Linux or Android.
Also statistics are not hard set to one mah level or they would have to do stats for every new battery the system takes basic info such as full mah from battery and current level (so if charger plugged in it is not fried) and generates a new stats file on boot if none exsists, but if you day have stock battery in it does then you plug in extended battery you would see when it"supposedly"did you can turn phone back in. if estimation was never wrong then once it dies saying 0% you couldn't turn it back on because you were already tools battery did not have enough power to continue to run phone. If it does turn on for any length of time the OS got it wrong.
you don't want to calibrate your battery don't this is last time I reply to this tangent.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
icenight89 said:
Not you RealPariah, you posted an informative thread with information based on your testing and results, and nothing is wrong with that, health debate is good and you provided some good arguments. I was making reference to doug36, and his rather uncalled for comments.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am sorry I misread you, and sorry you got lost in the mix there., thank you, but you can only lead a horse to water I guess. I just love how he says research and then says that cache helps save you from bad shutdowns when in fact cache is set aside fast access memory [usually a chip on the device or could be provisioned RAM] and that is what causes the problems on bad shutdowns [since it is in a form of memory dependent on power an you lose power that data is lost and how to try to mitigate that on power loss or bad shutdowns is half the battle. I think he was talking about the journaling found in the EXT file systems I think which is supposed to help re-create corrupted data if it happens, but as with everything computer nothing is ever 100% in practice, and is why you have need for error checking with things like e2fsck.
Also, I hope he realizes Google ASSUMES THE FOLLOWING CASE WITH ALL SUBSCRIBERS When dealing with anything: You buy your Android Device, You turn it on, you use it (maybe with some accessories like headset and bluetooth), and you never change anything the OS, the Battery, anything inside the case. They enjoy modders and developers, BUT they always call anything modified [EVEN EXTENDED BATTERIES] outside the normal and therefore outside of warranty and outside of the scope of any support they offer.
I do my best volunteering my time giving information learned from countless hours of love poured in to a craft that I love, working on a MULTITUDE of devices [I have co-workers, neighbors, and even sometimes strangers approach me and have me help them do any number of things]
FOR INSTANCE THIS METHOD OF CALIBRATION was thought of, sorted out and gathered AFTER my boss had an issue with his phone lasting like 6 hours on a charge and he wondered why when using 3 different batteries the phone would behave differently even though they were all the same make and size. I then went out and researched why that could be and gathered information and learned what was happening, was able to re-create it and then I fixed it. That was back in Android 1.5 LoL. Now when I got the S2 and had the same things happening several years later I researched that it was still an issue and went about fine tuning a method for fixing it best on the T989. Since initially learning how to do this and when and why I have helped COUNTLESS users who always complain their batteries die too quickly and who have never rooted, modified their phones or otherwise knew they could and when I went about getting custom recoveries and running variations of this method they all came back the next day or several days later and profusely thank me that they magically gained anywhere from an extra hour to 6. So I have to laugh when folks who read the first couple paid for results and quote the theory written in text books that I have already found through further research and practical use while not intentionally wrong did not take in to account certain things [be that apps can freeze a phone to the point you pull the battery or that a phone never loses power in such a way to cause data loss is just speaking in absolutes which is always an absurd thing in the technological realm.
Sounds like it's boiling over!
sent from a Android device
I'm always on!
axne1 said:
Sounds like it's boiling over!
sent from a Android device
I'm always on!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know right is why I am done I posted more than enough on that and more than enough folks vouch for it that's the last I pay attention and reply to that.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
I've been working on this for the past week. Every exploit I've tried just hangs after a while. I've gotten much further manually. I've got unbuntu and been working using various manual methods. The thing I've noticed is that there is no system folder in root. There is a system partition in which app and bin folders exist. Later today I'm going to have time to try some more. If it weren't for these silly rules id reply to somebody elses post, but I guess reading in forums for 3 years as a registered user doesn't count. Never a need to post as I've always found something using a search. And now I've got a phones that's been out for a week and there's no info out on it so I guess I get to develop myself. Not a hard thing...just time consuming and I've got better things to do, but these pink apps gotta go and I need wired or wireless tehter again. Hopefully I have succcess later today and can post how I accomplished it.
I'll be waiting anxiously. please post updates in this thread with your progress!
Any progress on this? I have been attempting but no luck.
update on progress
jb0ne said:
I'll be waiting anxiously. please post updates in this thread with your progress!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok so here's what i've learned so far from trying every method that i can find...
when you boot the phone into the pink screen (volume up and volume down plus power) there is a partition containing 1 folder with 5 files. That folder is called image and the file inside are amss.mbn, boot.img, cust.img, emmcboot.mbn, and recovery.img
The Ascend G300 is a similar phone to the G312 and there is a filed called superrecovery which changes the recovery to set ADB with root priveliges and installs SU in system. If we use the recovery from that batch file made by PauloBrien and push it to the device while in pink screen mode and then reboot into recovery the phone won't power on. You can return to the pink screen and change back to the original recovery, but you can not boot the device into recovery nor regularly. Now this gave me an idea as i'm typing. what if i change it and issue the command in ADB as ADB works during the pink screen. I'm going to try that now.
But this can't be done when in bootloader, only in pinkscreen which makes me think it's fastboot USB mode, but fastboot commands dont work uless you are in the bootloader with the huawei logo which you can only get into by issuing the reboot-bootloader command through adb. once you enter bootloader mode via ADB reboot command then you are able to issue some fastboot commands.
ok so that didn't work...basically when the files in the imge folder are changed the device won't boot into anything but the pink screen mode.
the original recovery file size is 6340KB and the one from PauloBrien is smaller at 5074KB. I'm wondering if file size has something to do with why it won't boot, however, i'm not familiar with what's inside of these files. So...as i reasearch how to build our own clockworkmod recovery i'm wondering if there's a way to change the ADB command inside from not root to root. if it's a on off selecton i'm not sure how i'd affect file size. this is where we get into the realm of knowledge that i don't possess.
so if anybody can offer up some knowledge from where i stand now... please do so.
on a side note, when running exploits, (gingerbreak, zergrush, doomsomething, psneuter, etc)...they all hang.
in linux when trying to drop a file into /system/bin the terminal read out says something about failing to cycle power, not certain what this means.
as i learn a bit more, i'll go ahead and add more...
I am hopeful to hear back from you with a successful root method for this device. I myself just purchased this phone for myself and would really love to see more development on it. Seems like a solid phone with a low entry price. Look forward to seeing what you come up with.
I'm also waiting anxiously for someone to figure this out. I just got this phone and while I really like it, there is just so much packed on this thing that I want to get rid of before I can really enjoy the phone.
I'll be watching this thread as well hopefully OP or someone else will figure out the trick to rooting this phone, like others I have used the usual methods but no luck. I've counted no less than 13 programs I'd uninstall right off the bat.
For what its worth the phone seems to not be considered part of the Ascend models of phones although they are quite similar our model is called the Unite U8680 and the Unite Q U8730 (the slider version). I've sent a email to Huawei lets see if they respond at all.
It's pretty much useless but this is all I can find on the G312 on the Huawei website:
http://www.huaweidevice.com/worldwide/technicaIndex.do?method=gotoProductSupport&productId=4086&tb=0
I'll be watching this thread as well. According to a post on another forum regarding a different Huawei model, dialling *#*# 2846579 #*#* and making some changes in the log file settings suddenly made their phones rootable for some reason. However while the same # gets you into the service mode on this phone, the log file changes made no difference.
I wonder, though, there are quite a few other options in that service mode. Maybe something in there that could be useful.
Edit: There's one menu that looks interesting, the USB one. You can change it to all sorts of modes including "Manufacture mode" whatever that is. Afraid to try it, don't want to brick my wife''s new phone
I've been playing with this menu as well and some of the USB modes do seem interesting. I was hoping this would let me find the product ID for the phone cause I found a link on the Huawei homepage to register to get an unlock code for the boot loader on this phone. If anyone is interested here is a link to the page and sadly the method they say to find the product ID doesn't work on our phone.
http://www.huaweidevice.com/worldwide/servicePolicy.do?method=toApplyUnlock
huawei says the product ID is an 8 digit number. I've been trying to dump the log files so i can scan them for some kind of 8 digit number. i've also tried all the different USB modes as well as a few other changes in the project menu that we're able to access. These haven't given me any success in changing the ownership of the folders needed to gain root access. i've not had any time to tear apart the recovery image to figure out what it's doing. but all in due time somebody will figure this out. still haven't been able to get fastboot to work properly either. am running through the usb modes on that now.
Yes please help i cannot figure out out either
builder.clockworkmod.com
so i've been working on building a recovery image for this devices using koush's site and have been able to build it, but the device won't boot into recovery yet. not sure how to fix this, gonna mess around and keep on trying. i can get it to boot back up and can get it to respond to adb commands when in the mode that just shows the android 4g logo. but i can't get into recovery. not through adb and not through using the power and volume buttons.
still working on it... any body else have anything yet?
No info on rooting this phone but Huawei just posted on their website the open source gingerbread kernel for the G312 U8680 here is a link to it:
http://www.huaweidevice.com/worldwi...=toDownloadFile&flay=software&softid=NDY3MzU=
It's been rooted!
Yep, it's a simple one too. Happy to have my wife's phone rooted Removing bloat, however, is tricky -- it's hidden in an inaccessible partition and when you erase it, it restores it on next reboot.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=31237225#post31237225
http://www.droidrzr.com/index.php/topic/4276-how-to-root-huawei-mytouch-4g/
Big thanks to mattlgroff for cracking this nut!
jb0ne said:
Yep, it's a simple one too. Happy to have my wife's phone rooted Removing bloat, however, is tricky -- it's hidden in an inaccessible partition and when you erase it, it restores it on next reboot.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=31237225#post31237225
http://www.droidrzr.com/index.php/topic/4276-how-to-root-huawei-mytouch-4g/
Big thanks to mattlgroff for cracking this nut!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you install an update to one of these apps lets use the, yahoo mail on for example, it will show in the /system/app or /data/app. The problem is the apk before the update is in /cust/t-mobile/us/app which is read only and unable to be mounted as R/W and that is why Titanium backup is unable to uninstall it.
I have tried moving it and deleting it manually with no luck. I have not tried through ADB yet but may give that a try next.
jamonthis said:
When you install an update to one of these apps lets use the, yahoo mail on for example, it will show in the /system/app or /data/app. The problem is the apk before the update is in /cust/t-mobile/us/app which is read only and unable to be mounted as R/W and that is why Titanium backup is unable to uninstall it.
I have tried moving it and deleting it manually with no luck. I have not tried through ADB yet but may give that a try next.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you figure it out and find anything out I would love to know about it. Where should I watch for an update in case someone does get that sorted out?
Recovery mode
There is an accessible recovery mode, at least on my querty version of the phone. You have to completely pull the battery first. Put the battery back in, hold Volume up, and then hit power. I held the power button for a couple seconds, and volume up for maybe 6-8 seconds, then started hitting volume up repeatedly. The key is to pull the battery each time you try, I think. It looks like powering off from the phone's power menu just puts it in a suspend sort of mode. (Compare boot times when rebooting, and when pulling battery)
Apparently the bootloader is locked, so not sure how useful it is yet.
For anyone with a T-Mobile MyTouch Q (Huawei U8730), I created a wiki page for it, and we should post in the New Device Forum Requests thread so we have a specific place to post info.
I just purchased a U8730 today and will definitely be figuring out how to root it at some point.
For anyone that cares here's a link in case you haven't registered at the other site.
http://j.gs/1U5q
I'm hoping we can get some development going for this phone. I just picked one up for my daughter a month ago and it's giving her memory filled messages already. It'd be great if we can get it permanently rooted and remove bloat to start... then possibly move onto Cyanogen... considering she had the horrible Comet (also by Huawei) previously and it had development for CM7. I may be taking a leap from my contract soon, but can't go to Straight Talk with her phone unless it's unlocked
The eMMC module "crashed" in my Nexus 7, and it got into write-locked mode as much as I can tell.
Actually I get -110 on init, I can't reach the block devices in adb, as it says it's busy.
What I can do:
Get into bootloader mode
Get into recovery mode (The screen stays at TWRP logo, but I can adb shell in it, but I can't read or write the mmc blocks)
Now this is not much help in write locked mode of course, but then I ran into this thread.
I could try the same with my Nexus 7, but I need some help:
Reset command (if there is any) for H26M64003DQR (I guess that's what is inside the 32GB version)
A dump from the boot and some other neccesary partitions.
As an alternative if someone knows the pinouts of eMMC chip I can use to solder to an sd card reader, it would help a lot.
As a second alternative, if anyone knows a way to boot right from usb, it would help too.
If anyone could help me with this, I would be really grateful.
Having the same issue and need help
I'm also having the exact same issue. No access to the eMMC at all -- all attempts to mount or read from it results in I/O error (-110 error when checking via dmesg).
It all happened randomly and I thought it was just a random restart. But after it was stuck for 30 minutes on the Google logo, I found out something was not right.
Does someone have any ideas? I would be **very** interested and grateful if I can get this fixed. The warranty just expired two months ago... :crying:
leoetlino said:
I'm also having the exact same issue. No access to the eMMC at all -- all attempts to mount or read from it results in I/O error (-110 error when checking via dmesg).
It all happened randomly and I thought it was just a random restart. But after it was stuck for 30 minutes on the Google logo, I found out something was not right.
Does someone have any ideas? I would be **very** interested and grateful if I can get this fixed. The warranty just expired two months ago... :crying:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried everything, and as far as I can tell, you have 2 options:
Solder a microsd card to the proper pins on the motherboard. (When I looked, nobody knew those pins, maybe there is some development since then)
Buy a new motherboard. - That's what I did, it was about 75$ from eBay. It's working beautifully since.
Xmister said:
I've tried everything, and as far as I can tell, you have 2 options:
Solder a microsd card to the proper pins on the motherboard. (When I looked, nobody knew those pins, maybe there is some development since then)
Buy a new motherboard. - That's what I did, it was about 75$ from eBay. It's working beautifully since.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I'll buy a new motherboard: is this one [1] okay?
Also, would you mind writing up a quick guide as to how to change the motherboard? I've found a video on YouTube for disassembling but unsure on how to change the motherboard safely. Thanks!
L i n k s (sorry, but there's a restriction; you know what to do with the l i n k s):
[1] www-ebay-fr_itm/ASUS-Google-Nexus-7-tablet-Gen-2-2013-16gb-motherboard-logic-board-100-working-/271623781886
[2] www-youtube-com_watch?v=uv3u78YNUHk
Yes, it's okay.
I've done the disassembling from a youtube video too. Just be careful, the case can be easily cracked on the corners. Memorize(or take photo from) every cable's place. There is a few hidden screws holding parts of the MB you should be aware of, but you'll find them if you search.
It's not that hard, just be patient and gentle.
Good luck!
Thank you! I'll try this and hope I can revive my Nexus 7.
Did you also try booting from a USB flash driver through an OTG cable before replacing the motherboard? I'm just curious what you did end up trying when you say you tried everything.
I'm not the OP, but as I've had the same issue, I can definitely say it wouldn't have helped, since it was a hardware failure.