[Howto] Battery Calibration - T-Mobile Samsung Galaxy S II SGH-T989

AS ALWAYS I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR WHAT YOU CHOOSE TO DO WITH YOUR PERSONAL DEVICE, PERIOD.
Battery Calibration and Other Tips from RealPariah
To save space on the post I am moving to spoiler type Q/A. Just click the SHOW CONTENT button for a given guide or answer to show the related information
Folks seem to keep asking a lot of the same questions so I have begun this thread at first to answer the Battery Calibration [Manually] and now I am going to keep adding things I find users keep asking about. Hopefully this will help alleviate the Dev Threads and please feel free to Link here in ROM directions I will try to break up things in to posts so you can link to a certain post for a certain item.
RealPariah's Manual Battery Calibration Methods
First is just whenever; Below that will be how to calibrate on flash of new ROM.
When I talk of charging it is highly highly recommended you use the AC adaptor and charge with phone off for absolute best results.
Calibrate Anytime
[Reminder: To save space on the post I am moving to spoiler type Q/A. Just click the SHOW CONTENT button right below to see the steps in battery calibration]
-> Charge phone to 100%
-> Restart phone [to be sure it isn't off by some amount (if phone off just unplug AC adapter for 30 secs and plug back in)]
-> Wait 20 min after you are sure it is 100% (phone should stay plugged in)
-> Boot in to recovery
-> wipe battery stats (advanced)
-> Get ready to pull battery and unplug phone and do so after the screen goes black after tapping restart device (pull AC adaptor first)
-> Wait 30 seconds and replace battery
-> Allow phone to boot
-> run through ENTIRE CHARGE (COMPLETELY DISCHARGE) the battery (whether normal usage or looped media files whatever you have time for)
-> restart phone to be sure it is totally dead
-> Charge fully one more time
You should be good to go!
Just remember it may take several days for phone to generate statistics and for this to fully settle in.
Calibrate Battery at ROM Install
Just be sure your battery to 100% as above and wipe battery stats right before you flash ROM zip.
Then be sure to fully kill the device and do one full phone off charge
You should be good to go!
as above it takes several days for battery stays to fully generate and settle in!
Hope they helps, and in my multiple tests seems to really make sure you get best performance!
Device: Samsung Tmobile S2 [SGH-T989]
ROM: Paranoid Android 2.52
Tweak Script: Newest Supercharger V6 with modified services.jar+KaK+3G Turbo Boost

Battery Calibration and other USEFUL ANDROID INFORMATION as answers to repeated ??s
JB AND ICS ROM Installation Procedure [or any ROM really]
**If You Follow the steps below it should clear any residual files and should leave you with a totally blank slate for the ROM to install on. So, be sure to do Nandroid and/or Titanium Backup as your scenario dictates**
First, to be thorough you should have 100% battery before flashing for best battery life.
Supplies:(links will be added)
Darkside Cache Wipe [OPTIONAL]
Darkside Super Wipe Script[Optional if using CWM more mandatory if using TWRP but it can be optional]
Kernel Cleanser Script [Very optional and only needed if you change kernels a lot and worry about residual files really]
Fix Permissions V2 by Minotauri Zip [yes v2 and v3 are different get v2]
Fix Permissions V3 Zip [edified again by Minotauri] [OPTIONAL]
*NEW* SEE Section BELOW INSTALL STEPS FOR HOW TO CHECK A ZIP FILES MD5 Signature via an ANDROID PHONE
ROM Installation Guide
Download The ROM of your choice using your WiFi Connection or Transfer it from your computer. Do not use the cell data connection [E, 3g, 4g] as there are more errors in data downloads this way. Also, some users report that they get the best results when they save the things they flash to their External SDCards. Myself, I use either the Internal Storage [EMMC] or the External SDCard interchangeably.
Reboot Phone in to Recovery
Choose Wipe Dalvick Cache [Advanced Menu]
Back at Main Menu, Tap Mounts and Storage
Tap to Wipe /cache /data and /system [Do each twice in a row]
Back at Main Menu Tap Install From SDCard and choose where you saved the kernel cleanser script and tap it to flash it [I suggest 2x again]
Do same thing for Darkside Superwipe Script [2x]
Restart Recovery [Advanced Menu]
Install From SD choosing your ROM zip file (just as above script zips)
Restart Device and allow to boot [skip account setup for now if it prompts we'll come back] wait 3 min from initial lock screen if unsure.
Restart in to Recovery
Clear Cache [Main Menu] and Dalvick Cache [Advanced Menu]
*(NEW) You can use Darkside Cache wipe here you should not need to clear any caches or to run fix perms separately if you flash Darkside cache wipe skip the above line, flash add-ons as stated in line below AND THEN flash darkside cache wipe (you can manually also skip cache wipes until after add-ons are installed the point is you clear both caches [before or after add-ons] and fix perms AFTER installing everything so adjust according to your tastes
Install any add-ons like super user, toggle zip installing custom radio and kernel last in that order [if nothing to add no worries that's cool]
Install From SDCard and find Fix Permissions v2 and flash it
or if you wish substitute Darkside cache wip here again subbing out the line right above this text
Restart Device and allow to boot [we cleared Dalvick Cache so yes it will be another longer boot]
You are done [unless you choose to fix ROM Manager so it doesn't freeze partially through fixing permissions while OS is running, but totally optional] Skip to Notes below and onward if not wanting ROM Manager fix
[OPTIONAL For ROM Manager FIX]
Once phone boots install [if it was not already apart of the ROM] ROM Manager [Premium License install will not affect anything do it now or later either way works]
Restart Device in to recovery
Flash the Fix Permissions V3 [YES VERSION 3 THIS TIME (Won't be needed again after this unless you install a new ROM, or uninstall ROM Manager when you re-install run this again) Just Like you installed the Zips above]
Once Done, Restart Device and let it fully boot and settle [give it 10 min after seeing initial lockscreen if unsure]
Open ROM Manager and Tap the Fix Permissions shortcut and let it do it's magic and it should not freeze on you now [best practice is to keep screen on in ICS it appears ICS sleeps deeper than GB and some apps haven't corrected for this so they stop processing just because device is in deep sleep not because the script is in error!]
DONE, Notes:
This method seems to ensure the best installation of ROM with least chance of cross contamination from the previous resident. I do find rarely even with this method I have to do this whole thing 2x in a row. This can happen when the data is transferred to the phone during install even if you do everything right. Once you run through it once or twice it gets easy and just throw those scripts and current ROM zip on Internal Storage if you find flashes from there work for you, because you should NEVER format EMMC [Internal Storage] as this will brick your phone [recoverable if you send it to Samsung or buy a $150 box and take your phone apart to connect it up [or if lucky know someone you trust that has one]]; and therefore as long as you have that and access to recovery you can flash your phone.
New Addition 2012.07.10
UPGRADING YOUR ROM WITHOUT WIPING USER DATA AND APPS!
This can only be done when upgrading from a previous to a new version of of your current ROM OR if you go from a ROM's base to the ROM [ie Paranoid Android is based on CM10 and you should be able to install Paranoid if you have CM10 without formatting your storage. This does also include how many changes exist between your current version and the one you are installing [ie you have Paranoid 2.2 installed and you try to install 2.52 you are more apt to have issues and/or errors than if you went from 2.51 to 2.52, so I can't account for EVERY scenario, use your best judgement please]. If this is your FIRST FLASH OF CM9 FOLLOW ABOVE INSTRUCTIONS AND USE TITANIUM BACKUP OR LIKE APP TO CARRY OVER USER APPS ONLY!
*BEFORE THE POSTING BEGINS YES I HAVE TESTED THIS USING NIGHTLY BUILDS AND HAVE DONE THIS OH ONLY ABOUT 12 TIMES IN THE LAST 14 DAYS! IT WORKS EVERY TIME!* I have also done this with both Clockwork Recovery 5.0.2.7 AND Clockwork TOUCH RECOVERY 5.8.1.3. I have not tried and will not risk using the Open Source Recovery [you can tell you are using it if the touch buttons are up and down and the enter key on the bottom of LCD screen and Clockwork Touch is the one the menu options themselves are tappable [If not sure install ROM Manager and have it install one or the other]]
Supplies
---------
** = Required
* = Optional
[/I]** You can use ROM Manager to Download the ROM file just don't have it start the flashing process automatically.
You can also visit Cyanogen Download Page
If you Happen to use the T-Mobile Galaxy S2 so do I so here is a direct link: Cyanogen T-Mobile S2 Download Section
** GApps
Click the top-most link labeled for CyanogenMod 9.0.x in the table at top of the page
* Chainfire SuperSU
I recommend Chainfire SuperSU as opposed to Original SuperUser included in CM9. It has some extra features, and its binary has been built better soo far. Well, Original Super User USED to Seg Fault All over ICS, but that has been fixed in the newest release. Chainfire has been built MUCH more recently geared towards ICS moreso [it works in Gingerbread just fine too] so I have stuck with it. If you like it PLEASE donate by buying SuperSU Pro on market. It is not my product, but it is well worth checking out and donating to if you find it useful.
Upgrade Guide
NOTE: It usually takes until AFTER the SDCard checks run through [2 if you installed ext SD] before the cell data even starts to connect, be PATIENT. If you have BEEN PATIENT AND ARE SURE THE RADIO IS ACTING UP FOLLOW ABOVE INSTRUCTIONS TO FLASH A ROM FROM SCRATCH [I recommend Paranoid Android].
Upgrading From a previous CM9 version to a Newer one
Gather the files you downloaded above and throw them on either your internal storage or your SDCard either will do just fine, just make 'em easy to find.
Don't forget to run the MD5 check as explained BELOW to ensure no data corruption during file download if you choose to do so.
FIRST RUN A NANDROID BACKUP [boot in to recovery, and use the backup feature provided in Recovery Menu] Step-by-Step Procedure on that coming soon . Of course, if you are an advanced user and do not feel this is needed then skip it, but if not is saving a few minutes skipping it worth rebuilding all your apps and settings if something goes wrong? You decide ...
Boot In To Recovery [Hold middle of Vol buttons so both are in while powering on and release them as soon as you see first Samsung Logo]
Now This is the order I do things, if you are comfortable or as you get comfortable you can change up exact order
Clear Cache [Main Menu]
Clear Dalvick Cache [Advanced Menu]
Now You can either go in to Mounts and Storage and Format the System Partition for a safer flash [I found not doing this on some Nightlys caused the touch screen to stop responding a lot, now that does seem to be fixed, just noting this incase you start wondering why the power, and vol keys work but the screen stops paying attention to you and how I fixed it go back in to recovery Wipe Storage and flash again from start [meaning dont skip re-flashing the following things as mentioned]]
Go to Install Zip from SDCard and Navigate to the CM Nightly you downloaded and flash it [remember to choose internal storage or SDCard as it applies to where you saved the files
WITHOUT RESTARTING
Install Zip and Now choose the Gapps zip [no worries your account info is retained but still flash it or Market and other Gapps will fail to work]
WITHOUT RESTARTING
IF you CHOSE to use Chainfire; Install Zip and Now choose the SuperSU zip
Now Run Fix Permissions [in Advanced Menu] IT WORKS FROM RECOVERY WITHOUT A FLASH PACK WHEN USING CM Based ROMs! [When they are installed to begin with if this is your FIRST CM flash then it still will bomb out and not run right] You can also skip this again if comfortable doing so
Once you are done those cache wipes and installs now Restart...
Be patient as anytime you wipe the Dalvick Cache you are on the hook for a LONG boot [~5 min]
Once the OS loads and you give it the 10 min to settle in and setup stats and all that background stuff [again use your judgement if comfortable skipping this]
Be sure to Open SuperSU from App Drawer and tap the button to update the binary when the pop-up prompts you to do so [if you did decide to use it]
Now you are good to go!
Now, THIS WAY you don't have to restore any USER APPs OR DATA [if you didn't wipe System before flash MOST of those settings should remain as well] and you only have your system settings to worry about!
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How To Run MD5 Check on Downloaded Zips Before Flashing
Screenshots will be added also (please bear with me as I have time). This will be via phone so it helps the most people it can I will add a Windows version as well soon, but this will work even if you have no computer.
Supplies and the Basics
An Android Phone
An MD5 checking App [I will use Android File Verifier (AFV) which is free and available on market and free]
A Zip to verify and
a known MD5 number for the zip [usually posted as a line of text with zip (something like MD5: MD5-NUMBER-WHICH-IS-MIX-OF-LETTERS-AND-NUMBERS (Hexadecimal) in thread near download zip [or sometimes changelogs] just copy it to a text file or bookmark thread to refer back once we generate the MD5 signature on the file when we complete downloading it.
Checking a Downloaded Zip's MD5 Signature on an Android Device Guide
[ANY ROM doesn't need to be specifically Gingerbread or ICS]
-> Download Zip you wish to check to some form of storage [Internal or External SD or even USB drive if you have USB host support and adapter doesn't matter where as long as you have enough storage to store the downloaded file.
-> Open Market and Install Android File Verifier [AFV]
-> If first install of AFV then click on return button on pop-up to see main window
-> Now, tap Select File and navigate to where you saved your zip
-> LONGPRESS the zip file [or any really] you want to check and choose calculate MD5 signature from the menu
-> Wait while it calculates the MD5 signature [this takes roughly 2 min with a 275MB ROM zip]
-> Once it is done you will see pop-up stating it is done, what the MD5 is and if you hit return the main window will now list the last checked zip's location with its MD5 checksum. The App also auto copies the number to your clipboard meaning if you saved the OPs MD5 in to a text file you can re-open it hit enter for a clean line, longpress screen and choose paste and it will paste the MD signature there for you to verify together with original signature.
-> You can go back and hit select file again and repeat for any files you would like and AFV supports following file signatures [incase OP likes to use more accurate checks [the longer the signature the more thorough the check, but also the longer it takes to process a file and generate that check]
AFV Supports FOLLOWING FILE SIGNATURE FORMATS:
* MD-5
* SHA-1
* Jar signing
* Verify Nandroid [MD-5]
* SHA-224
* SHA-256 [what I normally use to generate signatures when I release zips as it is more thorough than MD-5]
* SHA-512
Device: Samsung Tmobile S2 [SGH-T989]
ROM: Newest Paranoid Android [Currently 2.52]
Tweak Script: Newest Supercharger V6 with modified services.jar+KaK+3G Turbocharger

FAQs and Links to Other Useful Informational Threads
[size ="3"] How do I know when it is time to try and recalibrate my battery?
You can tell when if your phone says 0 battery and shuts down yet you can still power it on for any length of time. Basically, the OS uses statistics to judge what the exact battery level is when displaying in status bar as well as when to alert you to low battery. Have you ever gotten low battery warning and then a min later it rebounds and alerts again? I have and that again demonstrates the OS is not always dead on. Also, switching batteries usually aggravated this as well. I have also had users who have used same ROM for long periods of time and it degraded so slowly they hardly noticed then after it is re-calibrated it helps a lot. All that to say there are a few indicators, but using your judgment (*gasp*) if you feel it may be off give this a shot. I do not recommend running it every day or every boot but once every several weeks or roughly 30 charge cycles (whichever comes first (kinda like oil changes in cars use judgment and changing the oil does not mean you gain 100 miles to the gallon poor a million horsepower, you instead website the car (or battery here) is in top shape and runs the best it can.
Everyone keeps asking me to search for my questions/answers before posting but that is a lot of scrolling, how do I save time searching for the information I need?
CTRL+F [Windows or Linux] or Command Key+F [OS X] should allow you to search the webpage currently in view [all text not just what you can see, but all text on page period]
OR using:
" Site:forums.xda-developers.com" (without quotes unless you want the results to include every word just how you typed it search to be in the results shown, also, try different variations of your error or question not just a long written out sentence) at http://www.google.com and this will limit your results to only those pages on xda forums (you could copy/paste URL from inside any sub-forum to further limit searches [i.e. site:http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1332 would limit you to the Galaxy S2 T989 DEV forum only for results]
What is with some ROMs asking for me to use CWM Touch [OR NON-Touch]?
I have been using CWM Touch latest for sometime [Current: 5.8.1.3] (being since it first released)
and I have used it to flash EVERYTHING whether it is a Gingerbread or ICS ROM whether the thread said not to or to specifically use Touch doesn't matter.
Also, I can flash anything from either internal or external SD with really no difference [I seem to get an occasional flash error via external SD and have to flash a 2nd time but I use an old SD so prolly more the cells slowly going]
From my own testing it seems to be either user error or bad flash [keep in mind EVEN if you download the file right and it is read right sometimes you can have a bad flash because during the file copy process a random hiccup happened so rarely RARELY I have to re-flash and/or re-download the zip. JUST BE SURE TO DOWNLOAD ALL ZIPs VIA WIFI YOU INTEND TO FLASH as this will have less errors during data transfers as opposed to a cellular data connection like 4G. You could also use an MD5 signature checker [versions for android and desktop pcs are available easily by searching] and if OP posts MD5 signature you can verify your download before you even try to flash which can help. Of course MD5 checks on the phone will most likely take longer than if you use a computer, but if on comp be sure TO COPY ZIP TO SOME KIND OF PHONE STORAGE BEFORE CHECKING MD5 AS THE XFER FROM THE COMPUTER TO THE PHONE COULD CAUSE AN ERROR NOT CAUGHT IF YOU RUN MD5 CHECK BEFORE COPYING ZIP TO THE PHONE. I will be posting a quick how to check MD5 guide hopefully today.
After I Install my New ROM I am getting errors no one else seems to have, WHAT GIVES?!
I keep seeing users say I have FCs all this stuff doesn't work, while in OP it clearly states all the issues they post of are all working. In my experience of helping users in these spots one of the following is normally to blame...
>> Did you Download ROM over WiFi Only? If No, you need to do so it causes less errors in file to download via WiFi and not Cellular Data [2g, 3g, 4g, etc.]
>> Did You Run MD5 Check on ROM ZIP AFTER download? If No, You really should even if using WiFi only you could possibly have a transfer error [rare but happens due to many factors]. I have posted guide below install steps on how to verify MD5 on downloaded files
>> Did you use Kernel Cleanser, Darkside Super Wipe, and Fix Permissions v2 [my flash zip]? If NO, You really need to follow the guide and be sure you fully wipe data [DO NOT WIPE EMMC OR INTERNAL SD PERIOD] FULLY [just hitting format won't do it especially if installing ICS, hopefully will change soon, but until then you need a clean slate to install ANY ICS ROM EVER, YES EVEN UPGRADES].
>> Did you skip restart allow boot THEN Restart in to recovery Clear Dalvick cache and cache run fix perms v2 and restart? IF YES, you should stop now and do that restart recovery clear cache, clear Dalvick cache and run fix perms [built-in fix perms wont work must use flash pack]
>> I FOLLOWED Everything and Still have a problem, What now, genius?
Well, sadly, like everything computer and tech SOMETIMES [albeit rare] if you MD5 checked your download and did EVERYTHING right SOMETIMES there may still have been an error when copying files, setting symlinks, or setting permissions during install that while it didn't cause major problem still caused issues. I have had to flash ICS ROMs twice before to get things to fully take [Seems better now on T-mobile based leak than the Skyrocket based leak [imagine that], but can still happen even if EVERYTHING was done right. Just be sure to follow directions again to make sure you didn't gloss over something small and flash again.
I am getting weird errors out of any GAPPS [GMail, GTalk, Market com.google.gapps, etc] After installing a ROM [Darkside evolution is one I BELIEVE], How do I fix that one?
I found that when I removed apks from /system/app in Darkside 2b1 [tw launcher, snstw (twitter) snsli [LinkedIn], Mini Diary, Mini Notes, the Yahoo Stock watching apps, etc] that I got FCs from Google Talk [even though i never touched it, and com.google.gapps [again removed google quick search box but otherwise should never have had an error]. I tried MANY different fixes over many restarts [clear caches fix perms, put the removed apps back everything].
Then I flashed Newest Gapps from http://goo.im/gapps [I believe it is 2012.04.03 [should be newest for CM9 at top of page and no you dont need separate facelock pack as that is included since 2012.0.23 pack so DONT flash facelock ICS labeled pack I had to re-install a different ROM after I accidentally pulled that one myself.
How do I mount my external_sdcard as /sdcard?
I have found the following guide on how to do just that! Mostly useful only if your micro sd is larger than the 11G internal sd the phone already has. As always, be careful, read entire post before starting, run a full nandroid backup. This is not my work, and ask you to thank the OP if you find this useful.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1454753
OH NO, I am getting Bad Connection to Battery Error Messgae [and/or] When in charging screen [phone off battery grapic on display] and I see a yellow caution sign with a broken battery [and in some cases a rapid vibrate] IS MY PHONE DEAD?!
I ran across this myself not too long ago... First the Basics of how/why this happens the the rundown of how I fixed it
How/Why
---
Ok, so you are getting an error message stating bad connection to battery, or your phone is constantly restarting [this is not the only cause] and/or I got a weird yellow caution icon in the charge only screen [the screen seen when phone is off but plugged in to charger] [you may also get a series of quick vibrates as well in charge only screen with this as well].
From my research this seems to be caused by shutdown hangs when phone turns off when OS states 0% battery and goes to auto shutdown [may also happen if like 0 - 1% and you hit shutdown]. When the phone is about dead and goes to shutdown the capacitive lights [that bottom row of menu, home, back, search] stay off. The problem comes in if the ROM you are using hangs during this time. Contrary to popular belief when the OS says 0% and shuts down THIS DOES NOT MEAN THE BATTERY ITSELF IS AT FULLY 0% CHARGE. ANY BATTERY [not taking in to account so new experimental tech that may be out or come along come on lets be reasonable here] CAN NEVER BE TRULY FULLY DRAINED. If this were to occur you would need a special deep trickle charge device to breathe life back in to the battery. So now that's explained...
If shutdown hangs when the battery was already as dead as it can be unless you have that special device if it stays hung then it will very slowly take the battery past this safe point and you run the risk of killing it in such a way you cant revive it with a normal fast charger. Now of course since the phone is in a shutdown state it will hardly use any power at all and this should take hours [if not a couple days; I dunno as I dont want to test this and see how far you can push it] to get to the point of absolutely no return.
So when you go to even plug in to charge Android detects this and assumes the battery is damaged and is truly dead or close to it and warns you.
THE FIX
---
So after that happened when I went ot plug it in to charge the next morning [as I forgot to try to do it before bed and that would have shown a hang and I would have reseated battery and it would have been fine] I got to charge only with the yellow caution symbol and it was constantly quick vibrating so I hurried and pulled the battery and tried to put it back and got no boot vibrate and could not get charge only screen so I called Tmo and went through the motions and they agreed it was the battery and since they only replace phones referred me to Samsung
I called Samsung and to get a new battery they have A CRAZY RMA Policy [to force you to buy a battery rather than get a replacement] where you need the ORIGINAL receipt and then to wait for them to ship you a label [not next day; 5 business days], send it to them, wait for testing, and wait for them to send a new one back [again the SLOW way]. Since I dont have my receipt and refused to wait the crazy 4ish weeks it prolly would turn out to be I called them crazy and hung up. What I did was to leave the battery out of my phone for roughly 12 hours - 1 day [trying to just reseat the battery turned out to do no good the phone would not even boot vibrate even after a couple tries] then when I put it back I got it to boot to charge only screen with the warning and no constant vibrate this time]. I then waited a few min to try and ensure the battery got some charge and then pulled it out and reseated it and plugged phone back in [if you leave charger plugged in phone stays kinda on have to unplug charger AND reseat battery then plug it back in EVERY TIME].
THIS TIME I GOT TO CHARGE ONLY WITH NO WARNINGS! I let it sit for 12 hours [ENSURE it is FULLY CHARGED AS BEST YOU CAN] and I was able to boot the phone. For the next several days I would get random restarts and on occasion I would get an error stating Bad connection to battery. When that happened I had to pull battery reseat it and restart the phone [sometimes a few good times in a row stick with it] and over those few days I CAREFULLY monitored the battery to be sure I did full charge cycles [charged it fully in charge only and as soon as it auto shutdown I made sure to get it RIGHT on the charger [and pulled battery and made sure to see charge only screen to ensure another hang up didnt get me].
After those few days, I felt comfortable to CHARGE IT FULLY IN CHARGE ONLY and ran through calibrating the battery. After the calibration I no longer got random restarts or errors saying Bad Connection to Battery and ever since it has been good to go.
I know that was a little long winded but trying to get all the info in there as I AM NOT TESTING THE CONDITIONS THAT BROUGHT THIS ON TO FURTHER REFINE THE STEPS. Unless someone wants to buy me a couple spare batteries to test this and I know I have a good spare to fall back on.
Device: Samsung Tmobile S2 [SGH-T989]
ROM: Paranoid Android 2.52
Tweak Script: Newest Supercharger V6 with modified services.jar+KaK+3G Turbocharger

Which Android versions? So people aren't confused
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using xda premium

Locksmith81 said:
Which Android versions? So people aren't confused
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All Android versions apply I would specify in title of my thread if it were limited just tailored to be best method with our device regardless of OS as long as you have cwm or most other custom recoveries.
Device: Samsung Tmobile S2 [SGH-T989]
ROM: Yaldak's Vanilla ICS RC2
Radio: Blaze 4g ICS Radio
Tweak Script: Newest Supercharger V6 ICS with modified services.jar
Superchargers 3g turbo boost
(specific T989 pack as next project)

I agree with what Google said about battery calibration and conditioning, it is a placebo effect. I have never calibrated nor conditioned my battery and always get anywhere from 15 hours to 2 days use out of my battery depending on use.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda premium

DannyB513 said:
I agree with what Google said about battery calibration and conditioning, it is a placebo effect. I have never calibrated nor conditioned my battery and always get anywhere from 15 hours to 2 days use out of my battery depending on use.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LoL and if you abuse battery by leaving it plugged in our never fully charging discharging battery and statistics are messed up or a bad flash corrupts them what you get new battery?
All I can say is I have seen huge gains on devices doing this, yes it won't help to do it all the time that is a placebo, but trust me in real world with folks not always using devices per manufacturers guidelines (cough rooting and custom ROMs cough) it can really help.
Trust me I don't post info unless I exhaustively test something and can vouch for results myself on multiple devices and with multiple user feedbacks (just ask mysticfrog if it is worth reading what I post )
To each his own though you don't have to follow my advice if you choose not to I ain't gonna show up at your house or anything )
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

This method works not because u wipe battery stats, but because u reset the battery memory, which is built into the battery itself. Google has confirmed the myth, wipe battery stats simply deletes a bin file that android creates on each reboot that track your app usage per charge, that is all.
It should also be noted that doing the method frequently will actually have ADVERSE affects on your battery. Completely discharging newer lithium batteries can result in dead cells, so be careful.

icenight89 said:
This method works not because u wipe battery stats, but because u reset the battery memory, which is built into the battery itself. Google has confirmed the myth, wipe battery stats simply deletes a bin file that android creates on each reboot that track your app usage per charge, that is all.
It should also be noted that doing the method frequently will actually have ADVERSE affects on your battery. Completely discharging newer lithium batteries can result in dead cells, so be careful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well FYI, there is actually no way to FULLY discharge a battery UNLESS you left it without charging for days or weeks by fully discharging we mean until phone wont turn back on which leaves plenty of charge for a couple weeks still there. If battery EVER FULLY discharged you would need a special deep slow charger to revive it. You can trust I have been on computers and technically minded since I was VERY young [over 20+ years experience in computers and related devices]
Keep in mind Google engineers may not want to say admit there could ever be a battery issue that could be blamed on something like a stats file as that could open them to lawsuits since they do not disclose that at time of sale so sometimes what google may say on something while not an out right lie by any means will be shaded to benefit them every time [they have to make money can't blame them too much ] LLike they just got caught overriding browser privacy settings be exploiting an old loophole in cookie code so even if you said to deny google based cookies they were still getting all the tracking info they needed from you, or in UK [and here but under investigation] when they had the street cars for maps out and got caught gathering unencrypted wireless data to include passwords, emails, internet traffic, etc.] or how they just released that they are now spending 5 BILLION in lobbying in Washington up 5 fold from only a couple years ago. Not trying to say you cant listen to what they have to say just saying maybe you could investigate what they say just like you read my post and were not satisfied and went looking for information.
CORRECT, you wipe the statistics file SAVED ON THE DEVICE that saves your statistical information about your usage as battery charge changes [the file on the battery is actually just for dating, # of charge cycles, and current charge level you cant mess with that]. BUT, the statistics file ON the phone can be erased. By doing this you wipe away the files if they are corrupt OR have outdated information for say a differnt ROM with DIFFERENT usage conditions.
I already said you shouldn't do this everyday there is no gain from that, but if you say are home body and leave it plugged in all day everyday for a month and then go to go on a trip your battery will die too fast as the statistics Android is using are based on being plugged in all the time [NOT RECCOMENDED as again device chargers are fast chargers meaning they throttle between slow and fast charge and you DONT want the top 25% of a battery to be charged quickly as that can really hurt the battery and leaving it plugged in will increase the chances the charger accidentally throttles to fast during a time it should not as time goes on] so you would wipe those and have it restart stats while it is now being used off charger instead of on and that does and will get extra life [not more than the battery is physically capable of just the MAX it is capable of.
The only proof you need is to see when the phone shutsdown saying no more battery and then if you can boot it up and it says 10% left and stays running for another 15 min then the statistics are off and you can reset them to gain that time BACK instead of having the device shutdown earlier than it should have.
Dude I did not say this will give you more battery life than the battery is capable of, it is like chkdsk for your phone as you use NTFS it journals [albeit poorly and half ass] and should not suffer from corruption, BUT users who shutdown the machine incorrectly for instance will find when they run chkdsk on occasion they gain free space back due to errors caused by incorrect usage. The philosophy is the same here.
or EXT3 which is fully journalized should NEVER need to be checked yet they have e2fsck to fix errors due to corruption [again due to incorrect usage [ie forced power outtages that the FS can't account for] because even though it shouldn't happen in the real world nothing goes to plan.

sorry, gotta be said, stupidest post ever, clearing battery stats is pointless, and STORES NO INFORMATION ABOUT CELL CAPACITY/OR ANYTHING OF THE SORT, all that is actually on the board inside the cell.. also, check the location, gets wiped installing a new rom anyways? Also, with cell phones (keyword, CELL) Which use lithium ion cells, there is NO POSSIBLE WAY to "calibrate" the cell through the device, please at least research befor posting "how tos" u more or less are wasting peoples time
@buddy saying killing a lithionum cell will ruin it, also bull****, that. Control board inside is designed to actually stop or "die" around 100mAh meaning its impossible to kill a lithium ion cell without screwing with the board, or leaving it in device, empty, for over 6months.. PLZ PPL, CHECK UR FACTS BEFORE POSTING

doug36 said:
sorry, gotta be said, stupidest post ever, clearing battery stats is pointless, and STORES NO INFORMATION ABOUT CELL CAPACITY/OR ANYTHING OF THE SORT, all that is actually on the board inside the cell.. also, check the location, gets wiped installing a new rom anyways? Also, with cell phones (keyword, CELL) Which use lithium ion cells, there is NO POSSIBLE WAY to "calibrate" the cell through the device, please at least research befor posting "how tos" u more or less are wasting peoples time
@buddy saying killing a lithionum cell will ruin it, also bull****, that. Control board inside is designed to actually stop or "die" around 100mAh meaning its impossible to kill a lithium ion cell without screwing with the board, or leaving it in device, empty, for over 6months.. PLZ PPL, CHECK UR FACTS BEFORE POSTING
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Before being so abrasive, it should also be said that you stated facts without providing correlating evidence. I'm here to learn just like everyone else, and if something was said in error it is only based on information i have read or learned elsewhere. If you look at my thanks meter you will see i am an EXTREMELY helpful user on this forum.
Although uncalled for in the way you stated it, I would be interested to see where you obtained this information. Perhaps some links?

icenight89 said:
Before being so abrasive, it should also be said that you stated facts without providing correlating evidence. I'm here to learn just like everyone else, and if something was said in error it is only based on information i have read or learned elsewhere. If you look at my thanks meter you will see i am an EXTREMELY helpful user on this forum.
Although uncalled for in the way you stated it, I would be interested to see where you obtained this information. Perhaps some links?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am sorry if I hurt you're feelings, I can't account for local customs, I am here to pass along info. When I get time I will post links if needed you can google things like google cookies bypass browser settings, google street car suits, etc to double check me. Right now I have a dislocated ankle and getting dental work done so it may take a day or 2 before I can sit down and index the information for you.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

RealPariah said:
I am sorry if I hurt you're feelings, I can't account for local customs, I am here to pass along info. When I get time I will post links if needed you can google things like google cookies bypass browser settings, google street car suits, etc to double check me. Right now I have a dislocated ankle and getting dental work done so it may take a day or 2 before I can sit down and index the information for you.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not you RealPariah, you posted an informative thread with information based on your testing and results, and nothing is wrong with that, health debate is good and you provided some good arguments. I was making reference to doug36, and his rather uncalled for comments.

This would be what your looking for, quick google search,
Click a result and read the specifications.
http://elithion.com/lithiumate-pro-cell-boards.php
Ofc none really compare to the one in these batteries, but you should get the idea
They all have a preset for min (Isolation voltage apparently xD google rocks)
as other variables, and ofc with OEM cells, and boards,
Are actually able to store a WIDE variety of data to the cell, and the device doesn't have write access to this board...
So how can you calibrate it?
Also, google debunked this a while ago (batterystats)
And stated EXACTLY what its used for IT DOESNT STORE THE CURRENT PERCENT
batterystats.bin is located in "/data/system"
And 99% of roms wipe data/system/cache partition
Last point.
Its deleted/redone on boot, REGARDLESS OF POST STATE
meaning, its new every time anyway.

You are totally missing the point the below copied conversation may help:
The batt stats is a file under data, and it attempts to keep a good record of your usage to accurately predict your battery use. It's good to wipe this, if you're able, every two weeks or so. This file can also get messed up if you flash a rom on a non full battery, hence why battery can be worse after flashing a new rom.
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
Tank, *where* under data do I look for the battery stats - what's it called?
-Mike
It is the batterystats.bin under /data/system.
Oh and yes file is replaced at install and that's what causes you to have to then remove it while battery at totally full so file starts correctly thus fixing the problem. The same goes with usage the file may get corrupted if phone shutdown incorrectly, or app did something, or storage has an issue causing data loss, etc. Or be totally wrong because you swapped out the battery (whether it dies or you have spares what matters is it is a physically different battery you should wipe) and why I posted how to do it best on this phone.
I am not saying you are doing anything to the battery itself. You are working with the Android system and what it is doing (not changing it just restarting it).
I have seen this personally help at least 20 unique Android based devices personally and to varying degrees of success (depends how far off the estimation has gotten) so I know it can help.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

Ok, and u didnt read my post, ITS RECREATED ON BOOT REGARDLESS OF POST STATE,
Try this if you wanna test
Usng root explorer find the file, mod permissions 777 (rwxrwxrwx)
Edit it in text editor probly wont open it all, who cares.
Add anything at top or bottem, save, restore perms, and battery pull
Reboot and see if that lines there.
If it helped some devices it was probably the reboot.
Again please test this if your actually making a "guide".
Also, HOW CAN IF EFFECT A ROM INSTALL IF ITS A SYSTEM FUNCTION AND DOESNT EVEN CALL CURRENT %
Its main purpose is show a timeline in >SETTINGS>APPLICATIONS>battery use (I believe that's wherre) on GB
And >SETTINGS>battery on ics..
the file can't get messed from rom install..
Alls it does in a short sentance:
Stores information regarding uptime/cpu on running APPLICATIONS,not services.
This information is then calculated from the info from the cell board, such as
Max mAh and Isolation voltage, to get a estimation of the percentage of the battery use used by that application
COMPARED WITH THE SYSTEM. This file IN NO WAY DOES ANY SORT OF CALCULATIONS ITSELF
IT IS:
NOT a binary
NOT a configuration
NOT an executable
A list of references that the system should gather calculations for.
Recreated on boot
Read/write on system no perms on group/others
A temp file.
You brought up another useless. point, data corruption from incorrect shut down is rare to say the least that's what buffers are for
Android, like most full OSs (linux also, duh) use multiple countermeasures to stop this
If The system stored the mah levels of the cell WE COULDNT USE EXTENDED BATTERYS
as I said a few posts back RESEARCH BEFORE MAKING STUPID TOPICS

Its not recreated on boot if it were there would be even more problems that file should only be created when battery at 100%.
ALSO CACHES ARE USELESS IF SHUTDOWN INCORRECTLY (power loss due to not enough power a user pulling a battery during a freeze, etc can happen anytime you are thinking of journal which should eliminate errors (in theory) but really only help, if that ass umption were correct (that ext file systems gave no errors) then why does a file system repair tool exist (e2fsck) if errors never needed fixing?
Look you obviously have your head in a book, try something out in practice and stop quoting theory and corporate lackeys I have read all the same things before too. I am not new to Linux or Android.
Also statistics are not hard set to one mah level or they would have to do stats for every new battery the system takes basic info such as full mah from battery and current level (so if charger plugged in it is not fried) and generates a new stats file on boot if none exsists, but if you day have stock battery in it does then you plug in extended battery you would see when it"supposedly"did you can turn phone back in. if estimation was never wrong then once it dies saying 0% you couldn't turn it back on because you were already tools battery did not have enough power to continue to run phone. If it does turn on for any length of time the OS got it wrong.
you don't want to calibrate your battery don't this is last time I reply to this tangent.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

icenight89 said:
Not you RealPariah, you posted an informative thread with information based on your testing and results, and nothing is wrong with that, health debate is good and you provided some good arguments. I was making reference to doug36, and his rather uncalled for comments.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am sorry I misread you, and sorry you got lost in the mix there., thank you, but you can only lead a horse to water I guess. I just love how he says research and then says that cache helps save you from bad shutdowns when in fact cache is set aside fast access memory [usually a chip on the device or could be provisioned RAM] and that is what causes the problems on bad shutdowns [since it is in a form of memory dependent on power an you lose power that data is lost and how to try to mitigate that on power loss or bad shutdowns is half the battle. I think he was talking about the journaling found in the EXT file systems I think which is supposed to help re-create corrupted data if it happens, but as with everything computer nothing is ever 100% in practice, and is why you have need for error checking with things like e2fsck.
Also, I hope he realizes Google ASSUMES THE FOLLOWING CASE WITH ALL SUBSCRIBERS When dealing with anything: You buy your Android Device, You turn it on, you use it (maybe with some accessories like headset and bluetooth), and you never change anything the OS, the Battery, anything inside the case. They enjoy modders and developers, BUT they always call anything modified [EVEN EXTENDED BATTERIES] outside the normal and therefore outside of warranty and outside of the scope of any support they offer.
I do my best volunteering my time giving information learned from countless hours of love poured in to a craft that I love, working on a MULTITUDE of devices [I have co-workers, neighbors, and even sometimes strangers approach me and have me help them do any number of things]
FOR INSTANCE THIS METHOD OF CALIBRATION was thought of, sorted out and gathered AFTER my boss had an issue with his phone lasting like 6 hours on a charge and he wondered why when using 3 different batteries the phone would behave differently even though they were all the same make and size. I then went out and researched why that could be and gathered information and learned what was happening, was able to re-create it and then I fixed it. That was back in Android 1.5 LoL. Now when I got the S2 and had the same things happening several years later I researched that it was still an issue and went about fine tuning a method for fixing it best on the T989. Since initially learning how to do this and when and why I have helped COUNTLESS users who always complain their batteries die too quickly and who have never rooted, modified their phones or otherwise knew they could and when I went about getting custom recoveries and running variations of this method they all came back the next day or several days later and profusely thank me that they magically gained anywhere from an extra hour to 6. So I have to laugh when folks who read the first couple paid for results and quote the theory written in text books that I have already found through further research and practical use while not intentionally wrong did not take in to account certain things [be that apps can freeze a phone to the point you pull the battery or that a phone never loses power in such a way to cause data loss is just speaking in absolutes which is always an absurd thing in the technological realm.

Sounds like it's boiling over!
sent from a Android device
I'm always on!

axne1 said:
Sounds like it's boiling over!
sent from a Android device
I'm always on!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know right is why I am done I posted more than enough on that and more than enough folks vouch for it that's the last I pay attention and reply to that.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2

Related

[Q] Who provides a professional service to upgrade my Kaiser

Hey all,
I own an unlocked ATT Tilt 1 (Kaiser 8925). It is currently running windows mobile which is extremely slow. I have read all over the internet that you can put the Android 2.2 OS on this phone and have seen youtube videos on this topic also.
Ideally I need to be able to buy apps from the android marketplace.
Since I'm not a phone hacker I'd like to find a professional cel phone service company that can do this for me.
I searched extensively on Google and can't seem to find one. So who can do this and what is the normal charge for something like this.
Just trying make my old phone useful in wifi mode.
Any advice would be great.
Regards Henry
I don't think there is a company that provides such a service especially if we take in to account that kaiser/tilt is a 3 year old device and the android port is not official. There are plenty of topics in the forum describing how to replace winmo with Android. You don't have to be a hacker to run Android on your phone. Just read the stickies and you wil be able to flash ityourself in no time
There are phone dealers out there (in the USA anyway), that will do this for a fee on the Kaiser, but trust me, with what has gone into the development of this, almost anyone can do it. Save yourself the money and try it yourself. The worst I've heard about is a mis-flashed phone needing some master reset.
The question is who?
I live here in the Orlando area and have called a number of cel phone companies.
I was treated like King Gidorah Three Headed Space Monster. They didn't have a clue this could be done.
Henrykjr said:
I live here in the Orlando area and have called a number of cel phone companies.
I was treated like King Gidorah Three Headed Space Monster. They didn't have a clue this could be done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Listen HenrykJR there are about dozens of android builds on this forum + many different versions of two kernels, not all of those will work correctly for you. You might experience different issues with one setup but the other will work correctly for you. So even if there was a company that could flash it for you, you might end up with an unstable device. Also how could a company gain knowledge on flashing android builds to a phone that was originally shipped with windows mobile??? You seem to be looking for Nessy....in woods.
Your best bet now is to find someone in the forums to help you flash your device....maybe even use skype to show you how to do it. It really isn't that hard.
Hehe, i don´t think you´ll find a Company that will do it for you. Maybe you find some guys that do it for Money (me to ). But if you spend a little time with reading through this forum you could do it yourself and save the money.
Preparing:
1.) You need a SD card (mandatory for android on Kaiser). And you need a Google Mail Account for syncing your contacts etc. and access the android market.
2.) You have to "unlock" your Phone (with HSPL/HardSPL). Only after that you are able to flash things (Cusom WinMo ROMs, Radio, Android) to your Kaiser. So read through this guide and follow step 1-4.
3.) Now you have an unlocked phone an you should be able to flash everything. And the first thing you flash should be the latest "radio". The "radio" for Kaiser is similar to the BIOS for your PC. Like the subsystem and responsible for GSM chipset etc... So look & read in this Radio-Thread, download the latest Radio (it is 1.71.09.01) an follow the guide "Flashing Radio from microSD"
4.) Now your Phone is up-to-date and ready for flashing Android (or WinMo custom roms). YOU NEVER HAVE TO DO THE STEPS 1-3 AGAIN! Your Phone is now completely prepared!
Flashing Android:
For Android on Kaiser you always need 2 Parts. The Kernel (this part initialize the hardware so its similar to "driver" on PC) and the Built (the Android OS itself). But Both should work together so you´ll may find in some kernel suggestions in Built-threads because not ever kernel work with every built. For your beginning i whould suggest you some things:
First the kernel:
DZO is the most popular (the father of android on Kaiser) Kernel-Developer for Kaiser. So go to his repository and download "voguimg-240x320-2.6.32-froyo-09-10-10_23.nbh". Because Vouge and kaiser have almost the same hardware we all could use this kernel. But everyone have to modify this kernel to make phone related optimizations. You can do thy by hand (not recommended for you) or with a tool called "Atools". This tool is writthen in "Python" so mac and linux user could use it too. But you need to install Python. But that is all described in the Atools thread. Read through it and follow the guide.
Modifing Kernel:
We will only modify the madatory things. Not more at the moment...
So run Atools, klick on the "folder" Button and load the "voguimg-240x320-2.6.32-froyo-09-10-10_23.nbh".
Device: "Kaiser" should be checked
Resolution: 240x320 should be checked (native resolution of Kaiser display). Everything else will give blurry optic.
Version: "Froyo" should be checked, because we will flash a Froyo built (thats android 2.2). If you want to flash an older built like a Donut one (1.6) you have to modify & flash your kernel again.
Panel Type: Try "auto" or "1" first. But if you have a fuzzy screen or artifacts you have to try out which paneltype fits best for your device. HTC has built in 3 different displays in the Kaiser and the only way to find out which one is builtin is trial & error.
Keymap: Depends on which hardware keyboard layout you have. Here in Germeny i have to use "qwertz".
We leave the other options as they are an klick on the "Disk" button to save our modificated kernel now. it save it as "KAISIMG.nbh".
Now we need the Built:
I suggest "Fat Free Froyo" at the moment. Fast, stable, an looks good. So go to this thread and download "ODEX DOWNLOAD RLS5 ALL LANG-ODEX" on the bottom of the post.
then unzip/unrar this file...
Flashing your first Android:
1.) You should have a fat32 formatted SD card
2.) put the Kernel (the modified KAISIMG.nbh) to the root of SD card
3.) Create a folder named "andboot" on SD card
4.) Put the unzipped file (androidinstall.tar or .tgz) in the folder "andboot"
5.) Remove SIMcard and any cables from phone and put the SD card in your phone. Battery should be 50% carged or more...
6.) go to bootloader-mode (press and hold camera button and powerbutton). the KAISIMG should be loaded and it will show you "press powerbutton to update" or something similar. Do that... Now a progressbar will appear. When it is at 100% wait a few seconds an then pull the battery. Wait 10 seconds an insert it again. Voila! You flashed your first android kernel!
7.) Now we have to install android itself. So Power on the phone. In the moment when you see small white text on black background you have to press and hold the d-pad button. This one in the middle. Now you get in the install menu.
8.) Leave the options "System on nand" and "DATA on nand" as it is. Navigate to "install system" an press dpad. It ask "format system" and "format data". Both "YES". after this procedure you enter the menu again. navigate to "quit".
9.) Yeah! The first Bootup of Android! The first bootup takes longer as the following ones because now the system prepares for bootup and do a lot of optimisations. Even if you enter the lockscreen you should give it 10 minutes time to finish this optimization process in backround.
10.) Finish! You have flashed your first android completely! Now you can play around and make your settings. Remember: You have to sign in to your google account befor you can access the market or syncronize your contacts etc.!
Sounds more complicated as it is. Try it!
And if you´ll dig in deeper in this stuff you have to read here! Especially the Stickies/Refs/Tutorials! We´ve all done that!
have fun!
Henrykjr said:
Hey all,
I own an unlocked ATT Tilt 1 (Kaiser 8925). It is currently running windows mobile which is extremely slow. I have read all over the internet that you can put the Android 2.2 OS on this phone and have seen youtube videos on this topic also.
Ideally I need to be able to buy apps from the android marketplace.
Since I'm not a phone hacker I'd like to find a professional cel phone service company that can do this for me.
I searched extensively on Google and can't seem to find one. So who can do this and what is the normal charge for something like this.
Just trying make my old phone useful in wifi mode.
Any advice would be great.
Regards Henry
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brother, You can do it yourself, I can assure you. Regarding any ambiguity, you can contact me through PM. (I can guide you complete on voice over skype / msn). Its a TIDEOUS job but EASY to do since there is no MEANS OF BRICKING your kaiser (unless you flash something else than what u have do to install android).
I am here to help you in this community. And you can do this thing yourself.
Your device is At&t Tilt. The bad thing about installing android is getting a RIGHT kernel that suits your LCD type and enables wifi in the android build u install. (maybe in 1st try, maybe takes almost 10 tries like it happened for me)

[Q] AT&T tilt problem - gets stuck 2 to 3 times a day

Hi all,
My phone is AT&T tilt.
Kernel : 2.6.25-dirty modified using Atools - Panel 2 type
Android 2.2.1 - Not So Super Froyo RLS 18 updated with latest androidupdate using the kernel menu to update.
all installed on NAND , using p2 for system and p3 for data and auto for swap
My problem and it seems that i am the only one or at least no one has reported it, is that the phone gets stuck 2 or 3 times a day with the backlight dimmed and the screen pixeled with grey and black random pixels.
If anyone tries to call me when this happened, my phone doesn't do anything and they have a normal ringing as if i am not answering. when i restart the phone there would be no log of what happens during the stuck phase. Sometimes it also gets stuck during the restart and i have to clear the Dalvik Cache, and all info , contacts gmail account . everything is gone and i have to resync.
Any help or pointing me to what i am doing wrong is highly appreciated.
Thanks to all in advance
Are you familiar with the Fn + Left Soft Key, wait 5 seconds, then Fn + Rt Soft Key?
Sounds like it's just stuck in VSync, which because the phone is not top of line, Android refreshes the screen faster than the phone can react, so there's a delay script in place that helps fix this, but this stuff still happens due to limited hardware.
Whenever you get the pixel snow, try that combination above too see if that helps. If not the only other thing that can be happening is data corruption, which has been around since Day 1. Try installing system on NAND and data on your SD Card and that should help with your data corruption issues as well.
Also, if you are installed completely on NAND, you could do backups of your /data partition on a daily basis (takes about 1 minute on replimenu). I do mine daily even though I have a fairly stable install. I have been having issues with the ribbon cable lately and the phone will lock in sleep mode and run the battery down a bit. Not sure if this is software or hardware related.
IMHO, if you download anything from the market, back up your /data partition as soon as you can to save all your info and newley downloaded apps or games.
Krazy-Killa said:
Are you familiar with the Fn + Left Soft Key, wait 5 seconds, then Fn + Rt Soft Key?
Sounds like it's just stuck in VSync, which because the phone is not top of line, Android refreshes the screen faster than the phone can react, so there's a delay script in place that helps fix this, but this stuff still happens due to limited hardware.
Whenever you get the pixel snow, try that combination above too see if that helps. If not the only other thing that can be happening is data corruption, which has been around since Day 1. Try installing system on NAND and data on your SD Card and that should help with your data corruption issues as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks a lot , no i am not familiar with this option and i will give it a try as soon as it happens , i also should try the data on SD .
PoXFreak said:
Also, if you are installed completely on NAND, you could do backups of your /data partition on a daily basis (takes about 1 minute on replimenu). I do mine daily even though I have a fairly stable install. I have been having issues with the ribbon cable lately and the phone will lock in sleep mode and run the battery down a bit. Not sure if this is software or hardware related.
IMHO, if you download anything from the market, back up your /data partition as soon as you can to save all your info and newley downloaded apps or games.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i tried the backup using the replimenu , but it is not working properly . it a long time , after that i restart the phone and the backup file size would be 0 KB.
that was on the old build that i used , i will try it with this build , thanks a lot

[Q] Tried to update, now unuseable

So I have upgraded my i927 captivate glide using the ROM from , but I only Androidupdate com called I927UCLH2_I927ATTLH2_I927UCLH2_Home tar md5 but I get a black screen with a slide down menu saying the date ‘Ongoing’ and an option to change the way that the device connects to another computer.
The update stated pass, it booted and proceeded to tell me that it was updating apps or something like that, then a black screen with the pull down menu from the top of the screen near the usb symbol came up but nothing else. I got a message a few hours later stating that the update application or something like that was not responding and an option to wait or quit. I chose wait, but nothing came of it eventually.
I then proceeded to try reflashing the process with no success even after factory reset and rebooting.
I then tried the pre-release ICS update as per XDA developers and other websites. Same thing
I tried a few other ODIN programs and ROMs but no success. Same issues including the hang up on the Samsung logo. I tried rooting it once and for some reason it started up into what looked like the same pull down menu, but it was requesting that I needed an to input a lock code for the network. I assume that is because my sim card was in it by now, but maybe not. I got so frustrated that I tried the bootloader and update bootloader options using the official ICS update ROM for some stupid reason but nothing. The thing is that at least it booted into the pull down menu that i got with a black screen again.
I then flashed with an updated ICS, CWM6 but cannot do the:
Third: Reboot into CWM6 (Volume- and power) install from sdcard (superuser)
Link to superuser: Superuser-3.2-RC2-arm-signed zip
Forth: Repeat third step above but install keyboard fix.
Link to keyboard fix: CWM_keyboard_backlight_fix zip
since I do not have an SD card that is working. I did get the SD Card in the device but I have always had problems with the format of it and I cannot put the zips onto the card due to the computer Win7 not recognizing it. I tried reformatting the device is HPUSB format program and windows. I inserted the card into the device to hopefully have it recognized on windows, and i gave me an option to format the SD card. So I proceeded and success. I was able to put the Zips onto the card. However, I returned to the CWM6 screen by pressing the VOL- and power keys but the files were no where to be found on the SD Card.
I moved on after a few other tries at it, so I tried to go backwards to the Gingerbread ROM. No success, same hanging issue at the Samsung logo.
I then tried to reflash with the devices original ROM as provided by DroidAngel on androidupdate com. Both without success.
I wanted to try the process involved on the 'stuck on boot screen' thread, but I cannot access the zip files on the sdcard in order to be able to do that.
I also bought my phone unlocked from the US (ATT version) and had it sent to me in Canada unlocked so I cannot just return it to the seller to get a new one, so my new phone is pretty useless.
I have spent two days reading through and trying different fixes and updated ROMs on multiple sites but I just cannot figure out what the heck to do now. I know that this site is not to spoon feed people and I am a noob to all of this but I am out of ideas and cannot find anything else to help out.
Where do I go from here. Is there a possibility of reformatting EVERYTHING on the device including all partitions etc etc.? I mean the hardware is fine, it is just a software issue. I do this to my laptop whenever I get into a bind.
Have you tried booting into CWM and restoring factory?
sent from my captivate glide running ICS (NardROM 0.3 Rooted)
Just a note, the SD card you're seeing in CWMR isn't actually your physical SD card, its the internal phone memory. I don't think we have a version of CWMR that reads the real external SD unless modified. So anything you put on it won't show up there. The folder structure will look like ... /sdcard/external_sd/ where /sdcard/ is where you want to put your files for CMWR to see, /external_sd/ is your physical card you can take in/out.
I have tried to reflash with CWM6 using ODIN v3. I didn't realize that the SD card that came up was actually a part of the internal memory. Thanks to you both for the help.
Any other suggestions since no matter what I do now the phone simply stops at the Samsung logo and wont turn off? I press the power button for the required time to shut it down but it automatically restarts by itself to again sit at the Samsung logo.
EaglesIII said:
I have tried to reflash with CWM6 using ODIN v3. I didn't realize that the SD card that came up was actually a part of the internal memory. Thanks to you both for the help.
Any other suggestions since no matter what I do now the phone simply stops at the Samsung logo and wont turn off? I press the power button for the required time to shut it down but it automatically restarts by itself to again sit at the Samsung logo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A few questions about your situation right now:
Can you get into Download mode? (Turn off the device, in your case remove the battery. Press power en volume UP)
Can you get into CWM? (Turn off the device, in your case remove the battery. Press power en volume DOWN)
Does it keep asking you for the Network Key? Are you stuck at that particular point...?
Evil Alex said:
A few questions about your situation right now:
Can you get into Download mode? (Turn off the device, in your case remove the battery. Press power en volume UP)
Can you get into CWM? (Turn off the device, in your case remove the battery. Press power en volume DOWN)
Does it keep asking you for the Network Key? Are you stuck at that particular point...?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay, so right now I can still get into the download mode to flash, the CWM6 to factory reset and reboot which I have tried already as stated, and I have not been asked for the network key again since the one time quite a long time ago. The network key is only asked when I load one of the other custom ROMS though, but I have not tried any of those in a while.
I am stuck at the black screen with white Samsung logo.
In CWM6, do you see "mounts and storage" (Second to last option)
If so, connect your phone with the USB cable and select "mounts and storage".
In there and select "mount USB storage" (Again, second to last option, you'll have to scroll to get to it)
Now your PC should see the USB storage which is in fact what is marked as internal SD. So the sdcard CWM can actually see and install things from.
Now you can copy a custom ROM to it, and install it through CWM. Or install anything that is in CWM format.
You may get the Network Key Request as before. I do not know if it can be bypassed by starting it without the SIM. If so, you could then try to unlock your device using one of the methods on the forum.
Alternatively, and highly recommended by yours truly, is to buy the unlock code.
It is somewhat common for these devices to re-lock, so having the code handy is very convenient. I used americanunlocker to get mine, and I put the code on the inside of the back-cover should I find myself re-locked in the middle of nowhere. The code works, and isn't that expensive. In fact, it's a steal if you look at your own time invested in all this in terms of hourly wage! Of course, you'll need the IMEI code. You can find that by removing the back-cover and the battery.
Good luck!
Got it running on Bio360 but 'Not Registered on Network' now
Evil Alex said:
In CWM6, do you see "mounts and storage" (Second to last option)
If so, connect your phone with the USB cable and select "mounts and storage".
In there and select "mount USB storage" (Again, second to last option, you'll have to scroll to get to it)
Now your PC should see the USB storage which is in fact what is marked as internal SD. So the sdcard CWM can actually see and install things from.
Now you can copy a custom ROM to it, and install it through CWM. Or install anything that is in CWM format.
You may get the Network Key Request as before. I do not know if it can be bypassed by starting it without the SIM. If so, you could then try to unlock your device using one of the methods on the forum.
Alternatively, and highly recommended by yours truly, is to buy the unlock code.
It is somewhat common for these devices to re-lock, so having the code handy is very convenient. I used americanunlocker to get mine, and I put the code on the inside of the back-cover should I find myself re-locked in the middle of nowhere. The code works, and isn't that expensive. In fact, it's a steal if you look at your own time invested in all this in terms of hourly wage! Of course, you'll need the IMEI code. You can find that by removing the back-cover and the battery.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for the feedback, I actually had not thought about the unlock code idea, and since you put it into such perfect terms considering the time and effort that has to go into something like that, it is a good idea for sure to get one. The idea of keeping it on the inside of the back cover is another awesome idea. Kudos to you and thanks!
As for the rest of what you had stated about the mounting and what not; I actually mounted and successfully reflashed and installed all of the required files for the new ICS stock upgrade. The good news was that I got past the Samsung screen again and it said that it was updating all of the applications or whatever again, but then it just gave me the pull down menu again with very limited functionability.
I then used your suggestion to try out another ROM. I tried the Bio360 and followed all directions on the 'phone stuck on boot screen thread'. It worked! I finally have a functional phone again and will be able to get calls from my boss. Thanks!
Now that I know I have one option, I can explore any other options. I still cannot figure out how it is that I will be able to get the ICS upgrade but maybe I will try Kies.
However, I just found that I don't have network access anymore despite that I have a strong cell signal, so I presume that I will have to enter the unlock code somewhere. Where can I put that into? It didn't pop up to tell me anything.
EaglesIII said:
Thank you so much for the feedback, I actually had not thought about the unlock code idea, and since you put it into such perfect terms considering the time and effort that has to go into something like that, it is a good idea for sure to get one. The idea of keeping it on the inside of the back cover is another awesome idea. Kudos to you and thanks!
As for the rest of what you had stated about the mounting and what not; I actually mounted and successfully reflashed and installed all of the required files for the new ICS stock upgrade. The good news was that I got past the Samsung screen again and it said that it was updating all of the applications or whatever again, but then it just gave me the pull down menu again with very limited functionability.
I then used your suggestion to try out another ROM. I tried the Bio360 and followed all directions on the 'phone stuck on boot screen thread'. It worked! I finally have a functional phone again and will be able to get calls from my boss. Thanks!
Now that I know I have one option, I can explore any other options. I still cannot figure out how it is that I will be able to get the ICS upgrade but maybe I will try Kies.
However, I just found that I don't have network access anymore despite that I have a strong cell signal, so I presume that I will have to enter the unlock code somewhere. Where can I put that into? It didn't pop up to tell me anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're very welcome! Glad to hear the phone is usable again. In order to get data back you will have to set your APN manually. Stock ROMs come with the APN settings for all providers it is expected to be sold with. But custom ROMs usually come without those settings. You can find the APN settings for your provider online, just do a search. There is even an app for it, but the name eludes me at the moment. You'll need wifi to get the app, though! Once the settings are in place (You put them in under wireless & Networks), you'll have data again.
As for the limited functionality, I had the same thing, at first. The upgrade was broken for me, I guess some settings/apps were causing problems. So, after flashing the upgrade, I did a factory reset in CWM. I also wiped the cache, and the Dalvik cache, for good measure(Under advanced in CWM). It rebooted, said it was upgrading and installing, and I let it sit for a few minutes. Then I was greeted by an initial setup screen, and the phone has been on a working ICS ever since! I did lose all my settings and such, but I had a back-up of those with Titanium Backup, and got those back that way.
Hope this will help as well.

Internal SDcard Busted, Can't Format or Write (Forever Locked as Read-only)

HI,
I used to be more active in this forum, but honestly nowadays I can't found any reason to since everything has been smooth sailing for me without any problems—until this day, at least. Somehow I got my internal sdcard busted, it was pretty spontaneous, all I can recall is suddenly the system starts to reboot itself. Nothing much, I thought to myself, problem is the system keeps rebooting, it doesn't even last a minute. Naturally when faced with this problem one would do the usual procedure, namely completely format the thing to stock the rule out any possibility on the user side of things, but then this is the part when it starts to get interesting...
The thing refused to be formatted, seriously, it baffles me at first but it does
Things I've tried:
Fastboot, it hangs at writing system, whether I was doing it line per line manually or via the flash_all.sh script, I haven't tried the toolkit but I think it's safe to assume that It'll do the same thing. Even if it does go on (which it did, once) it doesn't do any sort of changes whatsoever to the system.
ADB, nope, not this one either. And since the system reboots faster before I can do anything worthwhile it's pretty much out of the question.
Recovery, multiple times I've tried nuking everything via CWM, nada. I've tried TWRP too, I have to boot it from fastboot since it apparently doesn't allow me to flash a new recovery either, it reverts back to CWM every time. Also tried to flash a different ROM (CM), that didn't work, it spits out an error message regarding some failure in changing metadata, thought it was a corrupted file or something, so I re-downloaded it, that doesn't work. Still convinced that it's corrupted I tried 4 different version of it without any luck. Even the one I had successfully flashed before. Interestingly enough, flashing the exact same ROM I'm currently using (ShinyROM) works, not that it seems to do anything.
Built-in data format from settings, now this doesn't work because I assume that it needs the stock recovery to work, which I couldn't flash because it wouldn't let me—in a sense that it flashes just fine on the command line—fastboot doesn't show up any error or anything—but it defaults back to CWM as soon as I reboot it.
Manually via terminal emulator/file manager, still nothing, curiously enough, Terminal Emulator indicates that the whole system is read-only (I tried making a file with it, it shows that exact message).
Grit my teeth, clench my fist and screams out every curse word that I know of, this somewhat reduced my stress levels, but ultimately yields nothing.
Which led to be believe that either my phone was either a) Haunted or b) Has a serious hardware problem, I'm leaning on the latter. A few quick lookup with my limited amount of Google-fu and I've found several threads that described the exact same issue:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/go...-factory-settings-no-matter-method-i-try.html
http://forums.androidcentral.com/go...eset-nexus-7-2102-using-multiple-methods.html
Both of which hints at it being a hardware problem. Which was my biggest fear since I can't really revert the phone back to stock now can I? Locking the bootloader doesn't seem to work either (the 'fastboot oem lock' command works just fine but just like every single thing I've tried, reverts back to my previous setup as soon as I did a reboot), plus this means I have to send it back with my private data still on it, and I can't say I trust Samsung, Google (or anyone really) with my private data. Not to mention some of the stories I've heard/read about Samsung and their policy regarding rooted devices (much less ones with an unlocked bootloader).
In case it helps, here's a few more details:
What state the device is currently in:
It boots up just fine, but nor for long, apps starts to hang and ends up with a cold reboot (sorry if it's not the right jargon, but it starts right from the Google screen).
Everything that doesn't require you to access the filesystem works fine.
Apps doesn't seem to be able to write anything to the filesystem, I tried backing it up with Titanium Backup, much to my surprise the backup files weren't made (although TiBu seems to indicate that they were).
What the device is running:
Variant: Maguro 16GB
ROM: ShinyROM 4.4.2
Kernel: franco.Kernel r395
Baseband: XXLJ1
Bootloader: PRIMED04
Also I don't know if this will affect things but for the record I'm running the latest Ubuntu and Debian.
So this post is pretty much a shot in the dark, since I think I know what I'm dealing with already; if anyone had this problem before in the past, or has it now and somehow managed to fixed it, please do tell. Or if anyone has any experiences RMA-ing your device with a condition like this I'd love to know.
Yep your EMMC is fried. Sorry man.. But you can go to warranty. They *should* accept it since it is a developers phone but they could make a lot of hassle about it being rooted..
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA Premium HD app

[NST/G] Update FW 1.2.2 UK (unofficial)

If anyone has an old UK device at the bottom of a drawer somewhere which they recollect has a non-English language dictionary from B&N on it, please contact me before trying this.
Spoiler: How I did it
While looking at the CWM Region Changer with someone from the UK trying to get their old NST up and running, it occurred to me that we might be able to do better. Several days and a few out-of-order epiphanies later, I had a rough idea of what needed to happen.
The most important discovery was that the "UK ROM" was still there in the US FW 1.2.2 update. That is to say, if you copied over the splash screens from the UK 1.2.1 update and the Oxford dictionary, you had nearly everything that was different between the two. Except it didn't work. It looked different on boot, but was still the US version (you can tell by looking at Settings which are different in the two versions).
Eventually I took at look at the update script in the B&N zip and saw that it was checking build.prop before doing anything else. I compared that file on the UK 1.2.1 and US 1.2.2 zips and found the major difference was in localization. In two entries "GB" was used instead of "US". Was it that simple?
Yes!
Ah...but it refused to register. In fact, it refused to authenticate, so it never got to asking about your account. The final discovery was the result of a completely idle-brained attempt (because I was out of ideas). I had rooted an instance after skipping OOBE. In the launcher app drawer I saw the familiar junk, including DeviceRegistrator (anyone who has rooted an NST knows this app with the smiley-face icon). I've always thought it was just cyber-detritus, an early version or mock-up left by B&N developers. They were not very tidy, after all. But maybe intents of the app are used in the current registration process. Who knows? Anyway, I tapped on the icon and proceeded to successfully authenticate the device. That got my attention! Then I tried to register with my existing B&N account and password. BINGO! I could see my device on the B&N website under my account and I was able to "buy" a free book using the Shop app (you need a credit card on file with B&N to get even a free book).
So it works for me, in the US.
Because of the changes I made to the original US 1.2.2 update zip, the internal signature is broken, so it cannot be used as an auto-update zip. Hence the need for CWM.
To avoid the necessity to root (for those who would rather not), I removed the broken Lancher.apk in /system/app and replaced it with a simple launcher in the Gingerbread style that is able to run as a system app. So when the device gets to displaying "home", it asks how you want to do that. Initially, the Launcher app is selected so that you have access to an app drawer and the DeviceRegistrator app. After registration, a reboot will present the "home" option choice again. This time the "always" box can be ticked and the B&N "Home" app selected. The Launcher.apk will never be heard from again. Those who go on to root can remove it from /system/app if they wish.
Outstanding issue to be explored: dictionaries. There seems to be a capability for adding different language dictionaries. The User Guide refers to this also. I have not been successful in doing this and don't know whether there ever were any other dictionaries. Since this was not a US option, I'm guessing that the only hard-coded URLs for the dictionary downloads are to non-existent UK servers. I still haven't tracked down where those URLs are. The Nook app for Android is reputed to have the same capability, but when I installed it on one of my rooted tablets, it only had an English dictionary. The format of this db file seemed to be exactly the same as the Oxford dictionary on the UK ROM. I got a Spanish book from B&N and tried to look up a word from there. This gives an option to download a dictionary (as the user guide says) but the result just sends you to the Settings where the only dictionary visible is the default English. So maybe you have to be in another country? Anyway, I could not get the NST to recognize the English dictionary offloaded from the Nook app, despite the apparent structure similarity with the Oxford already onboard. Perhaps there is a database somewhere that would keep track of the dictionaries on the device if the download function were still working. I have not found it. Or, perhaps additional "downloaded" dictionaries have a special place to be (Edit: YES! They go into /data/media/B&N Downloads/Dictionary). Someone with a long memory who has experience with the UK ROM but is not primarily an English speaker might hold the key.
Spoiler: Q&A
--Is this the same thing as the Region Changer?
No. The region changer procedure gives you a device running US firmware (although it looks like B&N still knows it's a UK device based on the serial number and their own records--or they might be identifying its point of origin by the internet connection). This update zip will give you a true UK ROM: the different splash screens, the different settings options (including language) and the ability to enter letters with diacritical marks from the keyboard. It also features the Oxford dictionary. However, it will contact US B&N servers, not the non-existent UK ones.
--Do I need to have an existing B&N account?
I think so. The back door we are using to authenticate and register the device does not have an option for creating a new account.
--Should I deregister my device before doing this?
If you did a region change and are currently running registered US FW 1.2.2, I would recommend deregistering the device before converting to the UK ROM, just to avoid potential conflicts. You can use the same account to register the new ROM. If you have B&N content, it might even show up since it's the same account (mine did).
--Can I purchase books from B&N using the Shop app?
Maybe. I was able to "buy" a free book from B&N and have it appear on my device (note: to purchase even a free book you need to have a credit card on file for your B&N account). But, I am in the US. The B&N Terms of Service says that you have to use (or have on file) a credit card with a US address. There appear to be workarounds like purchasing a US-based cash card, etc. Seems like a lot of extra effort, but apparently some people have done it.
--I live in the US but this sounds interesting. Can I try it too?
Well, I did! The ROM is interesting in a number of ways. It really is a Western European variant, not just UK. German, English, French, Italian and Spanish are the available languages. If your primary language is not English but instead one of these, this might be an attraction. However, there is at least one unexpected consequence. Some external servers will be absolutely convinced you are outside the US. I found this out by trial-and-error when I could not get my Today's Comics app to work. When I changed the region to English (US), it began to work, so I guess the content was region-blocked. I jiggered the Settings app of the UK ROM slightly so it would display the English(US) option.
--I see "Chinese" among the languages! Can my NST display Chinese?
Well, no. Unfortunately the only way to get English(US) to display is to display all of the "development" languages. I tried to suppress "Chinese" but had no luck. There are Chinese characters in DroidSansFallback but the strings for the B&N system were never fully translated (maybe not at all). There is a lot that is translated (appears to be Taiwanese Chinese), probably left from the original phone ROM they used to make the NST OS. However, if you select Chinese any apps you may have installed that are correctly localized for Chinese will display appropriately.
How to do it
Note: I did this on a deregistered device. It does not matter whether your device is currently US FW 1.2.2 or a UK FW 1.2.1.
1. Prepare a CWM card (if you don't already have one, use one of the two sdcard versions). If you've never done this sort of thing before it's probably easiest to download the zip for the Nook Region Changer and follow the instructions there for making the sdcard (steps 1-3). You don't need the two update zips that are on the card, but it's still CWM. If you already have a Region Changer card, you can use it as-is.
2. Download a copy of my 1.2.2 UK update zip. Copy the update zip to the CWM card (the card should be in the card-reader slot of your PC, not in the Nook)
3. Power down your Nook.
4. Insert the CWM card into your Nook and power up. You'll see the logo and maybe the opening menu.
CWM is a little wobbly on the NST. Sometimes it seems to get stuck on a white screen after the logo. If that happens to you, press the lower right hardware button. That generally wakes it up.
Navigating in CWM involves using the upper left hardware button (go back to the previous menu), the two right hardware buttons (go up and down a menu) and the "n" button (do what is highlighted).
5. Move down to "backup and restore". Press "n".
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
6. The menu should show "backup" at the top. Press "n". This will backup your current configuration onto the sdcard.
7. At the conclusion of the backup you should be returned to the top of the menu.
8. Move down (or one step "up") to "advanced". Press "n".
9. Move down one step to "wipe dalvik cache". Press "n".
Then move way down (or a little up) to "yes". Press "n".
Here you may run into another CWM issue. At least for me, CWM has a tendency to freeze after any kind of wipe. If that happens to you, don't panic. If the buttons don't seem to be responsive, press and hold the power button. If the device does not reboot back into CWM, release the power button and press and hold again. Eventually the device will reboot, taking you to the top of the menu again.
10. From the top of the menu move down to "wipe data/factory reset". This option is just like the previous one, including the potential freeze. Do it.
11. From the top of the menu, move down to "install zip from sdcard". Press "n".
12. The top of the next menu says "choose zip from sdcard". Press "n".
13. Move to select the nook_1_2_2_UK_update_CWM.zip and press "n", etc.
14. After the update is complete you need to return to the top of the menu where it says "reboot now" (if you are not already there). At that point, remove the CWM card from the device and press "n" to reboot.
15. Your Nook will boot into the UK ROM setup. You'll see the familiar multi-lingual splash screen, the marching dots, and finally come to a Language choice screen.
Select whichever language you prefer. You can change this later from Settings.
16. The next screen is the "Welcome" screen.
You are now going to execute a "skip OOBE". Since registration fails in the usual setup wizard, we will have to go in the back door, so to speak. At the "Welcome" screen, press and hold the upper right hardware button and swipe your finger across the top of the screen from left to right. You should see a "Factory" button appear in the upper left corner of the screen. Tap it.
17. Now you are on the Factory screen.
Again, press and hold the upper right hardware button and tap the screen in the lower right corner. You should see a "Skip OOBE" button appear on the screen. Tap it.
18. OK, so now you are faced with a choice which I have added to the ROM in order to finesse the registration issue without needing to root the device. There should be two options listed on the screen: Home (the B&N home screen) and Launcher (I added this). For now tap on "Home". The B&N home screen loads up with the infinite spinner in the lower half (no registration, no wi-fi, no data).
19. Press the "n" button and select "Settings". Set up a wi-fi connection and set the time zone and time display format. Leave wi-fi on. Use the power button to shut the device off.
20. Power up your Nook. When it has passed the marching dots it will ask you again whether you want "Home" or "Launcher". This time, choose "Launcher".
A simple Android launcher screen is displayed. All you care about is the app drawer, that little square of tiny squares in the center of the bottom of the screen. Tap it.
21. There is a bunch of stuff (mostly junk) in the app drawer. Resist the impulse to fool around there. Keep your eyes on the prize! Locate the DeviceRegistrator app (stupid smiley-face icon). Tap it. Check to be sure your wi-fi is on.
22. You need to do two things here.
First, register (authenticate) the device itself. That's the first button on the left in the first row. Tap that. If all is going well (and your wi-fi is on) you should get a confirmation alert. After that, type in your username (email) and password for your B&N account. There is no option here to create an account, so you need to have one already established for this to work. After you've typed in the information, tap on "Register User". You should get a confirmation alert. You can now turn off wi-fi. Press the "n" button and select "Settings". Check Device Info>About your NOOK. If everything went according to plan you should see that it is registered.
23. Shut down the Nook. Power up one more time. After the marching dots you are again faced with the choice of "Home" or "Launcher". Before you make your selection, tap on the little (empty) checkbox. This will make your next move permanent. Now tap on "Home".
You'll never hear from "Launcher" again. It will just languish in /system/app with all the other unused apps and your Nook is now registered and good to go!
If you want to root and further customize your Nook, select one of the updated NookManager packages. I strongly recommend using NookManager to make a backup of your device before rooting. The CWM backup you made at the beginning of this process is not a complete nandroid backup and you'd be better off with one before you make any more changes. If you are not interested in rooting, you may want to make another backup with the CWM card at this point and then put it away somewhere safe. Just in case.
I've just followed these instructions on my 1.2.0 UK Nook Simple Touch. In the UK, and it works perfectly. Thanks very much!
ashh87 said:
I've just followed these instructions on my 1.2.0 UK Nook Simple Touch. In the UK, and it works perfectly. Thanks very much!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for the feedback. Now we know it was not just a one-time fluke for me. I'm glad it worked for you as well.
Also worked for me. After registering I used NookManager to root it, then installed the latuk kernel from this post with CWM and it's now UK 1.2.2 and external keyboard supporting. That's all I was looking for. Another thumbs up for the repeatability of your method. Thanks for the detailed instructions.
A quick question - in step 23 ("never hear from Launcher again") above, if I accidentally make the wrong one the default, how would I get the launcher selection screen back again on startup?
markeq said:
A quick question - in step 23 ("never hear from Launcher again") above, if I accidentally make the wrong one the default, how would I get the launcher selection screen back again on startup?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let's say--hypothetically, of course--that you did that. There are two ways around it.
1. If you rooted with the "traditional" or "stealth" versions of NookManager, you have ES File Explorer. You can use it to access the App Manager and remove the defaults from the "Launcher" (or "Home", or whatever). After doing this, a reboot will present you with the choices again. Screenshots for a likely sequence below.
2. A more general quick-and-dirty method that will work in any situation: install yet another launcher app. When you reboot, the activity picker will see a new option and give you your choices again. When you've got it right, just uninstall the additional launcher (which you never have to run for this method to work). Here's a link to another simple and relatively useless launcher that will fit the bill.
nmyshkin said:
Move to select the nook_1_2_2_UK_update_CWM.zip and press "n", etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@nmyshkin have you ever seen an issue where CWM freezes on this step under opening update package... ?
i have left it on this step for 2-3 hours - im guessing it doesnt normally take this long ?
i also had the same problem in the exactt same place when i tried running the nook_1_2_update_US_CWM.zip region changer
any ideas on what i could try different to get working ? otherwise im stuck on a de-registered 1.2.1uk so my only option might be to nuke all b&n and go custom ereader route (which is probably fine tbh)
A couple of minutes is all it should take.
Check out the update using a desktop zip utility.
Does it look normal?
Renate said:
A couple of minutes is all it should take.
Check out the update using a desktop zip utility.
Does it look normal?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah it looks normal on my computer (im running popos although i cant see how that would change anything)
Well, you can always do it semi-manually, at least you'll get feedback.
Extract META-INF\com\google\android\update-binary
Go to TWRP and use ADB to push both the (original) zip and the (extracted) update-binary somewhere useful.
Use ADB (you do have a rooted prompt?)
Code:
# chmod 755 update-binary
# ./update-binary 2 1 whatever.zip
You'll get text out of this and maybe figure out what the problem is.
cyberboy666 said:
@nmyshkin have you ever seen an issue where CWM freezes on this step under opening update package... ?
i have left it on this step for 2-3 hours - im guessing it doesnt normally take this long ?
i also had the same problem in the exactt same place when i tried running the nook_1_2_update_US_CWM.zip region changer
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Click to collapse
Hmm...
Well, two things come to mind. First, the zip package is NOT an update. You're just supposed to choose "install zip from sdcard". So if you chose an update zip instead, that could be a problem, although I would expect CWM to say it couldn't find an update zip rather than just hang. At least that's what it has done with me before when I've made the wrong choice.
Second, since you have the same problem with the "region changer" zip, is it possible that your CWM card is bad? You might want to go straight to the source: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...od-based-recovery-fixed-backup-issue.1360994/. Either sdcard version should work fine, depending on the size of your card.
FWIW, these are the MD5 values for the various files in question, just in case you've got a file corruption problem somewhere:
2 gb CWM zip: 61a9cfea527a81e17c9b5bc751af27ce
128 gb CWM zip: 670bccc38737a722eaed75871bb36d35
Unofficial UK 1.2.2 FWzip: fbaaac9957483850cb723d46a518c064
Region changer zip: bca752409c8cc6da43658c7d537dfdf1
nmyshkin said:
Hmm...
Well, two things come to mind. First, the zip package is NOT an update. You're just supposed to choose "install zip from sdcard". So if you chose an update zip instead, that could be a problem, although I would expect CWM to say it couldn't find an update zip rather than just hang. At least that's what it has done with me before when I've made the wrong choice.
Second, since you have the same problem with the "region changer" zip, is it possible that your CWM card is bad? You might want to go straight to the source: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...od-based-recovery-fixed-backup-issue.1360994/. Either sdcard version should work fine, depending on the size of your card.
FWIW, these are the MD5 values for the various files in question, jus tin case you've got a file corruption problem somewhere:
2 gb CWM zip: 61a9cfea527a81e17c9b5bc751af27ce
128 gb CWM zip: 670bccc38737a722eaed75871bb36d35
Unofficial UK 1.2.2 FWzip: fbaaac9957483850cb723d46a518c064
Region changer zip: bca752409c8cc6da43658c7d537dfdf1
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Click to collapse
omg thanks ! yes i think issue was with CWM card - i flashed a new one from the link you gave and now it is working
and also thanks for the advice @Renate - i want to get set up/learn to send ADB anyway so this is helpful
Hmm, well, I didn't know that.
OTOH, you would have seen that you couldn't find an update-binary in that zip.
nmyshkin said:
While looking at the CWM Region Changer with someone from the UK trying to get their old NST up and running, it occurred to me that we might be able to do better. Several days and a few out-of-order epiphanies later, I had a rough idea of what needed to happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Another success, from UK 1.2.1 to your pseudo-UK 1.2.2.
It halted, as in your examples, after both wipes.
Great step-by-step instructions. Spot on. I wouldn't say I'm a complete novice at such things, but it's always great to have such detailed instructions to make sure I don't go and do something daft.
Thanks so much! Do you have any kind of buy-me-a-coffee link?
(Now to work out what my battery issues were, if they come back, 'cos I know from disassembling the hardware and testing the battery that it's not the battery!)
jewelie said:
Another success, from UK 1.2.1 to your pseudo-UK 1.2.2.
It halted, as in your examples, after both wipes.
Great step-by-step instructions. Spot on. I wouldn't say I'm a complete novice at such things, but it's always great to have such detailed instructions to make sure I don't go and do something daft.
Thanks so much! Do you have any kind of buy-me-a-coffee link?
(Now to work out what my battery issues were, if they come back, 'cos I know from disassembling the hardware and testing the battery that it's not the battery!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad it worked for you. That's my reward
Unless your glowlight is not turning off completely, I can't think of any other factor on a stock system that would drain the battery fast, barring some unknown hardware issue.
Hopefully this sorts it out.
On top of the running an unregistered device, I've read that manually tapping the power button to force it to sleep can cause battery issues, which is what I had been doing. Other possibilities that have been suggested to me are corrupt books, and maybe having the WiFi off.
I did notice that the internal disk was seen by windows and Linux as having an fs error, and windows couldn't fix it. That actually persisted following the instructions you gave above, it seems it didn't actually wipe the 240Mb internal disk so some files and settings and of course the corruption remained, which was a surprise, so I an erase and deregister to go properly from scratch. That did clean in!
Device is now on sleep with wifi off and no books after the fresh start. I also hacked the cover I was using to make sure it wasn't touching the screens or buttons. It's at 79% now, let's see what the percentage goes to over the next few days...
EDIT: BTW The reason I know it's not the battery itself is because I disassembled it and tested the battery through a few 0.5A charge & discharge cycles and gave it a week to see if there was any significant self discharge - madly, it still has almost the full 1500mAh capacity - impressive for a device that's been going for 10yrs now!
jewelie said:
I've read that manually tapping the power button to force it to sleep can cause battery issues, which is what I had been doing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think this has been debunked in the distant past although I can't put my finger on the particular post.
jewelie said:
I did notice that the internal disk was seen by windows and Linux as having an fs error, and windows couldn't fix it. That actually persisted following the instructions you gave above, it seems it didn't actually wipe the 240Mb internal disk so some files and settings and of course the corruption remained, which was a surprise, so I an erase and deregister to go properly from scratch. That did clean in!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That part is interesting and the initial result is not surprising. Unfortunately CWM cannot do a thorough wipe unlike, say, TWRP. A factory re-image is the most thorough cleaning I'm aware of, followed by the deregister/erase, then with CWM bringing up the rear. The reason I didn't include a factory re-image at the beginning of the process is that I wanted to keep it simple and not scare away those averse to anything approaching root. The 8-failed-boot-attempts method for a factory re-image is tremendously tedious and involves close timing and dexterity. OTOH, a NookManager card can initiate the process with the push of one hardware button. But that means making yet another card and flirting with the whole root thing (not necessary to root just to do the factory re-image).
The internal disk error may or may not have something to do with the battery drain. You'll find out. When I was doing a lot of testing with battery life a long time ago I found that a loss of 1% was typical overnight if the device was just sleeping. Of course, that's with whatever I had going on my system at the time.
@nmyshkin Thank you so much for the detailed guide.
I followed all the steps without any issue. I even got the freezing bug after clearing the Dalvik cache. But followed your steps, pressed on the power button twice and it restarted.
I used a 2Gb memory card and used the sd_2gb_clockwork-rc2.zip and I've written the image with WinImage 8.50.
nmyshkin said:
The internal disk error may or may not have something to do with the battery drain. You'll find out. When I was doing a lot of testing with battery life a long time ago I found that a loss of 1% was typical overnight if the device was just sleeping. Of course, that's with whatever I had going on my system at the time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm seeing about 3% drop (as seen in settings -> about) every two days, which sounds about in the right ball park?
jewelie said:
I'm seeing about 3% drop (as seen in settings -> about) every two days, which sounds about in the right ball park?
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I'd say so, especially if you've been doing any reading at all.
nmyshkin said:
I'd say so, especially if you've been doing any reading at all.
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Click to collapse
Update: It's over a month later, battery is still on 26%. Touch wood, it's fixed. THANK YOU!

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