after two days straight of beating my head against the wall i finally found the EDL points
they're located under the usb ribbon cable and are a ***** to short because of that
I'm currently facing an issue with getting the device to stay connected to my pc but im not sure if its just my setup
using a piece of solder wick,
For me, a small piece of solder wick just disintegrates into the individual strands. So I tried soldering some "wire wrap" wire to each pad, and then short the 2 wires together. So there's another approach to dealing with these hard to access points. But I didn't see anything appear in Device Manager so I wonder if I'm doing something wrong or if these aren't actually the edl points. Has anyone had success actually getting to the point where they can blank flash their phone?
FWIW mine's a Stylus, but it's very similar to the Power (I've installed sofia roms on it) and the mobo looks identical.
hola el modo EDL es J y L de tu foto ya lo descubri lo que me pasa es que no se mantiene 5 segundo y se desconecta... espero les sirva y si les pasa lo mismo avisan
The preceeding post seems to say that she found the J & L test points in the first photo to be the correct ones.
Shorting random things can cause resets. It's best to be sure what are actually EDL points.
I'd warn anybody to not indiscriminately short random points on your phone.
The EDL test point is a (fairly high impedance with a pull-down resistor) input so you don't have to short anything.
You can use a resistor that is of low enough value (maybe 1000 ohms) that it is as good as a short (as far as the correct input goes) to poke around with.
If you short a power supply with the 1000 ohm resistor it won't mind.
Also, one point should be 1.8V, the other should measure 0V.
What @TheShanMan says is a good idea. Use teensy tiny (30 AWG) wire to connect to test points.
Thick wire can rip up the little solder pads.
Also, if you do this often, you can run your teeny wires to a magnetic reed switch so that you can activate it with a magnet on the back cover.
(It doesn't do any harm when it's activated when your device is running normally.)
I can confirm that the J and L points are the correct ones on an xt2041-4, at least they were for me. You will also need the battery plugged in to get the phone to show up on your computer, or at least I did. I would recommend not doing anything you see in this thread unless you have 0 other options for your phone. It is very easy to damage or completely kill your phone if you screw around with the motherboard like this.
That being said, I needed to solder a set of wires to the J and L points because I didn't have a good tool to jump them manually. You may also want to consider doing so because, in my experience, it took many trials and errors to not only get the phone to show up, but to keep it there, and the pads are fairly difficult to reach when you have the battery still plugged in (which again, you need to do). This isn't something I'd recommend doing normally, but if it's the difference between your phone being bricked and it working again, it might be worth considering if you don't have luck with a tweezers or other tools. I would also consider doing so because, in my case, the procedure that I needed to do to get the EDL mode to show up was time sensitive and required unplugging and plugging the battery back in. I'm sure my procedure can be improved and that there is a logic to it, but it was the only way I could get the phone to show up.
Make sure that if you solder wires to the jumpers, that you strip the absolute minimum amount of the wire's sheath off for the ends you intend to solder to these points. Any exposed metal around this area can bridge the battery or USB power if you're reckless, impatient, or have no hope like I did. I'm speaking from experience as there were a couple times where I even made sparks trying to touch these jumpers with a wire or tweezers.
And now, my procedure. You'll see why I think the wires are kind of critical. Make sure that, if you try this, you read the whole procedure first and get familiar with it before you try.
If your phone is plugged into USB-C, unplug it, but make sure the USB ribbon cable is connected on the motherboard. Unplug the battery's ribbon cable from the motherboard.
Wait 5 seconds, then do the following steps within 5 seconds.
Plug the battery into the motherboard.
Connect your EDL jumpers and make sure they stay connected.
Hold the volume down button while you plug in your USB-C cable.
Hold the power button while still holding the volume down button.
Within about 15 seconds (in my experience it was almost always less than 10), you should hear the device connection noise (on Windows). After this, you can let the power and volume buttons go.
At this point, assuming you already have the motorola and qualcomm drivers installed, it should show up as 9008. You can then use one of the blankflash tools that you can either get from lolinet or scrounge up on the forums. The ones on lolinet didn't work for me. I had to dig for one that the smart Brazilian folks had. This is the version I used on my RETUS phone: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mHVOjqMyUJJeCkUPaf2YfUwf_tLykiSm/view
If you get your phone to show up but it keeps disconnect and reconnecting itself, you need a different USB cable. This is something that happened to me. Also try other ports on your computer because it could be the USB controller for that particular port. While this was happening to me, I found out that the device manager can actually stop working and it will not detect when devices are plugged in or unplugged. You can see if that happens by manually going to the top left, then doing Actions > Scan for Hardware Changes. If the little window pops up and it freezes, you're stuck. I had to restart my PC when that happened.
I have some documentation on this and I intend to compile it into a guide in the future. If you have any immediate questions, feel free to message me. If there are any corrections you have for my process, please share, because I'm not a dev nor have I ever taken apart a phone like this before. Thanks.
Awesome, @Vvanderfell ! Your procedure might explain why it didn't seem to show up in Windows for me. I'll have to give those steps a try sometime soon. Thanks for figuring this out and sharing all the details!
Related
Trying to give new life to a friend's Kindle fire, but it seems to have a weird problem and she has no idea why. I've looked through the forums and I have found several posts that are close, but not the same (and the solutions won't work either) because the KF will just shut down the minute a cable is plugged in.
Here's the array of responses for the various attempts:
The device will charge if it is plugged in (USB cable and AC charger) but no light comes on at all under any circumstance. And it will shut down when plugged in to charge, and will not power up if on the charger. If it is just powering up and you plug it into the charger, the light stays on for a few seconds and the first screen that just says "Kindle Fire" shows up, then it shuts down.
The device will boot if no USB cable is inserted. The device will shut down when you insert a USB cable. The device will not boot with the cable plugged in (AC adapter or computer) and the power button never goes green. With a usb cable plugged into a computer, the computer will not recognize the device (and it shuts down immediately upon the cable being plugged in to the Kindle.) Also, if you just power it up, then plug it into the computer (just like with the power supply above) the light stays on for a few seconds and the first screen that just says "Kindle Fire" shows up, then it shuts down.
When I received it, I noticed that the case had been opened (or at least pried on.) Also, the USB connector was loose. I removed the board, re-soldered the connector (it appears to be intact now, but the connections are TINY so there is a limit to what I'm sure of) and reinstalled the board. Behaves the same way. I performed a 'power button' reset to the device and there was no change. I performed a factory reset and there was no change to the behavior.
Next I purchased the N2A fastboot cable thinking that would allow me to boot the thing and force a real reset (and install a non-kindle version of android), but I went through everything again and there is no change in how it reacts. The moment that USB cable gets plugged into the kindle, it shuts down. I think I followed the instructions properly (they aren't that complicated) but I'm having no success.
I've reset it a couple of different ways and several times with no change.
Any suggestions?
My goal is to get this thing working, install a 'non-kindle' version of android and get it back to her to use as an inexpensive tablet and e-reader, just not tied to Amazon (or BN).
Grant
gfhopper said:
Trying to give new life to a friend's Kindle fire, but it seems to have a weird problem and she has no idea why. I've looked through the forums and I have found several posts that are close, but not the same (and the solutions won't work either) because the KF will just shut down the minute a cable is plugged in.
Here's the array of responses for the various attempts:
The device will charge if it is plugged in (USB cable and AC charger) but no light comes on at all under any circumstance. And it will shut down when plugged in to charge, and will not power up if on the charger. If it is just powering up and you plug it into the charger, the light stays on for a few seconds and the first screen that just says "Kindle Fire" shows up, then it shuts down.
The device will boot if no USB cable is inserted. The device will shut down when you insert a USB cable. The device will not boot with the cable plugged in (AC adapter or computer) and the power button never goes green. With a usb cable plugged into a computer, the computer will not recognize the device (and it shuts down immediately upon the cable being plugged in to the Kindle.) Also, if you just power it up, then plug it into the computer (just like with the power supply above) the light stays on for a few seconds and the first screen that just says "Kindle Fire" shows up, then it shuts down.
When I received it, I noticed that the case had been opened (or at least pried on.) Also, the USB connector was loose. I removed the board, re-soldered the connector (it appears to be intact now, but the connections are TINY so there is a limit to what I'm sure of) and reinstalled the board. Behaves the same way. I performed a 'power button' reset to the device and there was no change. I performed a factory reset and there was no change to the behavior.
Next I purchased the N2A fastboot cable thinking that would allow me to boot the thing and force a real reset (and install a non-kindle version of android), but I went through everything again and there is no change in how it reacts. The moment that USB cable gets plugged into the kindle, it shuts down. I think I followed the instructions properly (they aren't that complicated) but I'm having no success.
I've reset it a couple of different ways and several times with no change.
Any suggestions?
My goal is to get this thing working, install a 'non-kindle' version of android and get it back to her to use as an inexpensive tablet and e-reader, just not tied to Amazon (or BN).
Grant
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds like a hardware related issue some kind of permanent or near permanent damage.
Thepooch said:
That sounds like a hardware related issue some kind of permanent or near permanent damage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the reply!
I'd agree that it could have a hardware component. I don't think it's fatal though since 1) it charges, 2) it powers up and works, 3) the wifi works.
I'd guess that it has something to do with the USB (to serial?) hardware but I don't know where to look on the board (other than tracing the traces but it's a multi layer board....)
I'm comfortable working (or rather 're-working') surface mount components. I have not see any interior/board layout info so I'd have no idea which chips to be looking at or testing.
Any suggestions about what area might be affected or pointers to schematic designs?
Thanks again,
Grant
gfhopper said:
Thank you for the reply!
I'd agree that it could have a hardware component. I don't think it's fatal though since 1) it charges, 2) it powers up and works, 3) the wifi works.
I'd guess that it has something to do with the USB (to serial?) hardware but I don't know where to look on the board (other than tracing the traces but it's a multi layer board....)
I'm comfortable working (or rather 're-working') surface mount components. I have not see any interior/board layout info so I'd have no idea which chips to be looking at or testing.
Any suggestions about what area might be affected or pointers to schematic designs?
Thanks again,
Grant
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Grant you could attempt usb boot it acts different than any other form of booting the device and may actually fix what is broken do a Soupkit setup, and run usb fix parts install fff and twrp.
There is at least the potential that it could travel the course less traveled and rebuild partitions that may or may not be broken.
Soupkit is here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1850038 and you will use one of it`s components firekit.
Rather than attempting to do a physical repair to the board because the components are very small and packed so tightly together.
It`s a medium to high risk approach but if you desire it could lead to benefit.
Truthfully IMO some things are better left alone.
Thepooch said:
Grant you could attempt usb boot it acts different than any other form of booting the device and may actually fix what is broken do a Soupkit setup, and run usb fix parts install fff and twrp.
There is at least the potential that it could travel the course less traveled and rebuild partitions that may or may not be broken.
Soupkit is here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1850038 and you will use one of it`s components firekit.
Rather than attempting to do a physical repair to the board because the components are very small and packed so tightly together.
It`s a medium to high risk approach but if you desire it could lead to benefit.
Truthfully IMO some things are better left alone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that is a good plan and I very much appreciate the advice.
The fire is nearly useless to her in the present state and she was going to 'toss it' when I suggested the alternative. So, at the very least it's an education for me, and at the very best I'm able to resolve the issue, learn something and get her a working tablet in the end.
If I can get it acting 'normally' that would tell me a lot.
I have a spare 8G thumb drive so I suspect I'm in good shape for tackling this and it will be an interesting change to run linux on something other than a raspberry pi or a server....
Thank you again!
Grant
gfhopper said:
I think that is a good plan and I very much appreciate the advice.
The fire is nearly useless to her in the present state and she was going to 'toss it' when I suggested the alternative. So, at the very least it's an education for me, and at the very best I'm able to resolve the issue, learn something and get her a working tablet in the end.
If I can get it acting 'normally' that would tell me a lot.
I have a spare 8G thumb drive so I suspect I'm in good shape for tackling this and it will be an interesting change to run linux on something other than a raspberry pi or a server....
Thank you again!
Grant
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you wish for help with the setup if we can get connected I will give you a hand I made hundreds of these live usb during the test phase of Soupkit there's a little to it but when it's setup it works well.
Thepooch said:
If you wish for help with the setup if we can get connected I will give you a hand I made hundreds of these live usb during the test phase of Soupkit there's a little to it but when it's setup it works well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be great! How do we connect?
Grant
gfhopper said:
That would be great! How do we connect?
Grant
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Teamviewer is the best way.
Hi XDA community,
firstly thank you for your all your great jobs here!
I own a P605 Galaxy Note 10.1 2014. It has been "soft"-rooted (through kernel bug, without KNOXing the device) but it has probably gone out of warranty.
I experence some serious issues with any USB-related operation, let me enumerate them:
1) USB Charging: when powered off the tablet charges normally (but slowly), when powered on the tablet charges (fastly) until the screen switches off, then it stops charging.
2) USB OTG: when attatching an OTG cable, the device detect it but when attaching an USB drive nothing happens
3) USB to PC: on a Windows OS, attaching the tablet results in a "Device Descriptor" error, even with the tablet in download mode, so any firmware flashing operation is impossible. On Linux OS there's a similar error, related to device descriptors.
Obviously, when I bought it everything worked fine. Sadly, I suspect an hardware issue... I'm asking you any kind of help: tests to indentify exactly the problem and, hopefully, a solution.
P.S. I've already tried changing USB cable/USB port/PC/charger/mood/wearing/house...:crying:
Hello , i too have this problems, do you run also Lollipop 5.1.1`? Any solution found?
1) If not using the original charger/cable (or non compliant) then there's a possibility thad the data pins of the charger are not shortened. You need a charger compliant with our tablets or data-pins-shorted cable. (you can do it yourself but the cable will only be used for charging)
https://www.ibm.com/developerworks/...ssue_solved_hack_your_usb_cable_today?lang=en
https://www.amazon.co.uk/PortaPow-Charge-Block-Adapter-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM
2) try Es file explorer (remember ntfs is not supported)
3) install kies or try
http://org.downloadcenter.samsung.c...G_USB_Driver_for_Mobile_Phones_v1.5.45.00.exe
(just the usb driver)
I have exactly the same case as #1 and I fixed finally. It's because of the bad contact of the usb cable. Open the back cover (gentle and slowly prevent broke it), disconnect the usb cable from the adapter near camera, wash your hand and keep it dry, touch the golden finger one or two times with your cleaned finger, then connect it back with a little push it to the end, make sure it lock firm. ( I also use a piece 3M plastic tape to stick on the surface ). Power on and test, no problem and then close back the back cover. My machine no more that problem again. Sorry for my english not so good, and hope this can help.
With Davidmueller's Lineage and RR there is a (recurring) charging problem with usb cables. You need a cable like the one supplied, where the second GND line on the m-usb plug is not connected. The plug of the white original cable has the contact missing, i bought a recent, black Samsung cable with 5contacts,also working. None of the other cables i tried, did. The problem was there almost a year ago, got solved and re-occured during the last updates.
Results after the replace of the usb module.
As suggested by Jan&March, I tried cleaning the usb module connector on the motherboard. It solved EVERY issue for about 3 days, then they came up again. So I thought that maybe, touching and cleaning the connector, there was some bad contact on the cable. I bought a replacement part for the usb module. It has been working for about 2 weeks before showing the same issues today. I hope I'm helping someone with my experience. Any suggestions?
The pcb jack may have bad solder joints. I never had the case open, but i think the usb and display connectors belong to the components bearing most of the pressure exerted on the back cover. Except the battery and the metal shieldings on the pcb stand out more,which can only be told if you have the back cover removed.
lecorbusier said:
The pcb jack may have bad solder joints. I never had the case open, but i think the usb and display connectors belong to the components bearing most of the pressure exerted on the back cover. Except the battery and the metal shieldings on the pcb stand out more,which can only be told if you have the back cover removed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, so what do you recommend?
That would require re-soldering. It's hard to tell, it's less likely if the connector's aren't among the most prominent parts under the back cover and won't make contact with it. I can't tell from the pics i've seen.
Jan&March said:
I have exactly the same case as #1 and I fixed finally. It's because of the bad contact of the usb cable. Open the back cover (gentle and slowly prevent broke it), disconnect the usb cable from the adapter near camera, wash your hand and keep it dry, touch the golden finger one or two times with your cleaned finger, then connect it back with a little push it to the end, make sure it lock firm. ( I also use a piece 3M plastic tape to stick on the surface ). Power on and test, no problem and then close back the back cover. My machine no more that problem again. Sorry for my english not so good, and hope this can help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this just did it for me. i think the bracket that secures the ribbon cable isn't exerting enough pressure on the cable so maybe some data pins may not be in contact.
Hi everyone,
A few days ago, this problem started to show on my device.
When I'm charging it, it says "charging", but even the slightest movement can stop the phone from charging.
Sometimes it even toggles *charging*/*not charging* without me moving it at all.
For example, if the battery is on <15%, the phone will vibrate - so when I charge it when it's below 15%, if I touch it, it vibrates every 5 seconds or so.
It's really terrible... I once left the phone to charge for a few hours just to come back and find out it wasn't charging.
I've tried different USB cables, power sockets, chargers, so I guess it has to be a problem with my device.
I'm pretty confident it's a hardware issue, and I bought it around 10 month ago, so warranty should still be up. However, I don't remember anything particular that could damage the charging port, and this started all of a sudden (a day earlier it was charging perfectly).
I'd like to hear some opinions, solutions, and if any of you have had this before.
Thanks,
Barak
It's definitely the charging port, maybe it was faulty from factory, send it in warranty
Get a dress making pin or something tough and really pointy and carefully scratch inside the port. Be careful of the plastic inside. Do not bend it or snap it off. Do not scratch or pick at the pins on the top of the plastic. Only scratch around the plastic.
Shine a torch in and see if you can find any loose debris that you may have dislodged. Keep doing it until you can't get no more fluff etc out of it and try plugging the charger in again.
It should have a nice solid clunk as the plug goes in and seats properly now.
Hey, thanks alot for your replies. @shivadow I've tried cleaning the port like you said , this maybe helped a little but the problem is not solved.
P.S : I noticed that there is a position which is problematic.
When the phone is connected to the charger, if I hold the cable with my hand, and push it upwards (I exert force on the cable in a direction vertical to the screen). This is when it stops charging. Just stating this if it might help you diagnosing something specific.
Anyway I think I'll be sending it back to the lab this week or next week, thanks a lot for your help!
Either a faulty cable, plug or socket. If it happens with other cables it'll be the socket. If you know for a fact that the plug is seating correctly but you still have the problem then either worn pins or worn socket.
So it turns out that when I tried to check whether the charger, or the USB cable is to blame, I tried 2 different cables, but they were both faulty, which made me think the problem is with my HTC.
Now I tried changing phones and still had the same issue, so I tried more usb cables, and voila! Works like a charm
Thanks for the help @shivadow, much appreciated.
Always blame the cable first!
Help please...
My note 10 plus suddenly when plugging headphone or USB adapter ; connected disconnected usb , appears and disappears rapidly in notification and doesn't work ,fast charging not working also,only regular charge...
I tried clean the USB port but no benefit...
any solution please??
samsung lo said:
Help please...
My note 10 plus suddenly when plugging headphone or USB adapter ; connected disconnected usb , appears and disappears rapidly in notification and doesn't work ,fast charging not working also,only regular charge...
I tried clean the USB port but no benefit...
any solution please??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The port can be replaced by a Samsung authorized repair shop.
rcobourn said:
The port can be replaced by a Samsung authorized repair shop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So its hardware problem 100%?
samsung lo said:
So its hardware problem 100%?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've seen reports of this before, and it always seems to have been a hardware issue. You could try a factory reset, but it's unlikely to help.
first step try as many different leads as you can as it could be faulty leads, it's the most common problem but as you say it's happening with multiple things it probably isn't this.
had similar problems on other phones alcohol and a thin pick has tended to fix it when I've needed to do it.
one way I've found that works to clean it out assuming the USB lead is going in fully, (if not use a thin pick as it could be a bit fluff in the bottom of the socket stopping it engaging fully) is to turn off the phone get a disconnected USB lead, (very important it isn't plugged into any source of power during) dip the end that plugs into the phone in alcohol (proper cleaning alcohol not just drink as it evaporates quick) put the plug in and out a couple of times, let it dry out then repeat a couple of times, if it's just dirty contacts this will clean it, just make sure when connecting the USB lead is just damp and not dripping to avoid any flooding of the socket.
outside ofm that I would assume it's a hardware fault.
Belimawr said:
first step try as many different leads as you can as it could be faulty leads, it's the most common problem but as you say it's happening with multiple things it probably isn't this.
had similar problems on other phones alcohol and a thin pick has tended to fix it when I've needed to do it.
one way I've found that works to clean it out assuming the USB lead is going in fully, (if not use a thin pick as it could be a bit fluff in the bottom of the socket stopping it engaging fully) is to turn off the phone get a disconnected USB lead, (very important it isn't plugged into any source of power during) dip the end that plugs into the phone in alcohol (proper cleaning alcohol not just drink as it evaporates quick) put the plug in and out a couple of times, let it dry out then repeat a couple of times, if it's just dirty contacts this will clean it, just make sure when connecting the USB lead is just damp and not dripping to avoid any flooding of the socket.
outside ofm that I would assume it's a hardware fault.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your help...
Fixed it by using electronic cleaner spray its made my day ,moisture alert appears and after four hours gone after that its works!!:laugh:, i dont know if its bad but it fixed this problem
was possibly just a short in the socket due to dampness for a while, but the port should be waterproof like the rest of the phone really so nothing should have really got in the phone.
but if it's working it likely was just dirty contacts.
Belimawr said:
first step try as many different leads as you can as it could be faulty leads, it's the most common problem but as you say it's happening with multiple things it probably isn't this.
had similar problems on other phones alcohol and a thin pick has tended to fix it when I've needed to do it.
one way I've found that works to clean it out assuming the USB lead is going in fully, (if not use a thin pick as it could be a bit fluff in the bottom of the socket stopping it engaging fully) is to turn off the phone get a disconnected USB lead, (very important it isn't plugged into any source of power during) dip the end that plugs into the phone in alcohol (proper cleaning alcohol not just drink as it evaporates quick) put the plug in and out a couple of times, let it dry out then repeat a couple of times, if it's just dirty contacts this will clean it, just make sure when connecting the USB lead is just damp and not dripping to avoid any flooding of the socket.
outside ofm that I would assume it's a hardware fault.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for providing detailed instructions on port contact maintenance. I started having issues right after updating to A11 so assumed ultra fast charging on my note 10+ broke due to that update. However, just to be sure i ordered new oem block and cable and the ultra fast charging began to rapidly cycle from on to off, so i did more research and came across your reply. I dipped both ends of the old usbc cable into a half oz of reagent grade alcohol 99%+ shook them off so there wasnt a full drop of alcohol in them and slid the cable in and out a few times. Then let it dry for a min and plugged it back in to the new block using new cable. It seems to be stable now, however as i write this reply, it cycled twice between on and off, so I'll keep trying to clean the port and report back if successful.
Confirming that cleaning the contacts on the cable and phone using reagent grade alcohol and a thin pick worked to resolve the issue. Examination of the port and cable with the naked eye did not reveal fouling. Keep that in mind when deciding on trying the cleaning.
Does anyone have any clue where the EDL points on the Realme GT Master Edition
Took it apart and was unable to find the points by bridging them across with an exposed wire, and disconnecting the battery and plugging in the usb cable.
It's possible that it's in that big line of dots on the bottom left.
But don't just go shorting things, you could vaporize something useful!
If you know for a definite fact that two points are it you could just short them with a wire.
But if you're just poking around it's much better/safer to use a resistor, 200-3000 ohms.
Use your fingernails and pull up the mezzanine/FPC connectors for the three cameras.
Manufacturers like to hide stuff under the FPC.
If you have a voltmeter, check for one point that is 1.8V and another that is 0V
if you have recovery access, go to recovery mod insert usb cable, multiple time press recovery version, from the popup select OK. done, send any XML using ROM2box/oppo/new/gt-master-edition