Develop Bugs

Repost/help

This person posted this about kindle fire not working
At first my Fire wouldn't charge unless it was placed in a particular way, then it stopped altogether. I pronounced it dead, and left it stowed away for a few months, but then decided to try and fix it. I think this guide may be useful for anyone who wants to fix a kindle with dead charging. Note that you may damage your kindle in the process so if you are still under warranty, use it.
1. Take off the back cover. You may need to use a guitar pick or something similar.
2. Take off the two battery leads. One has a locking mechanism which needs to be lifted before the ribbon cable can be taken out.
3. Take out all screws connected motherboard to rest of device. There are connections underneath the board so be careful when lifting it.
4. When I lifted it, I found the USB connector had broken off the entire board (if it was even attached in the first place) and this was obviously causing the problems, as the USB connector could now only connect to the motherboard if pressure was applied so that it was being held on somehow by it. To fix this, I could have tried to solder the tiny USB connections onto the board, but instead I used a different way which is working perfectly for many weeks now.
5. Get a rubber band and tie a not in it numerous times until the knot is about 3-4mm thick. Cut off remaining rubber band and superglue the knot onto the bottom side of the USB connector (the side that faces the display when assembled). Then insert the USB connector into it's little holder under the board, with the rubber band firm beneath it and replace the motherboard. Redo all the screws, reconnect any connectors you've disconnected (you may have had to disconnect some to remove/move the motherboard - always undo battery cables before you work on the innards of any device).
6. If you've done this correctly, the round rubber band knot should press the USB connector continuously on to the board. Test using your stock charger before you put it back together because the back cover is pretty hard to get off.
7. Replace the back cover and enjoy!
Notes: My rubber band knot was actually a little too large, which meant that to connect the USB plug I had to press the kindle together to insert the cable, but charging is reliable and working so far, so I'm happy about that.
If you found this post helpful, please click the Thanks button!
And I think he's long gone it's an old post and I need help what does he mean by connect the rubber band to the usb where do you put the rubber band where do you super glue it the motherboard kindle or the usb and what does he mean by tie it how do you tie a rubber band

Powering on unit outside of car

Hello,
I recently sold my car and no longer have the need for one of these MTCB units. Like an idiot, I forgot to wipe my information from the unit (Eonon / KLD) before uninstalling it.
The unit is made for plug and play with a Mazda 3. Is there something I can do to power it on without the car, so I can erase all of my information / settings and get it ready for resale. Otherwise I'm not going to feel safe selling it. (Even though I could probably revoke the important accounts from the cloud.)
Thanks.

I used a PC power supply.
You need 3 pins Positive and negative for power and positive for ignition power
Look at the adapter wiring specific for your car and you will figure it out.

DRidilla said:
Hello,
I recently sold my car and no longer have the need for one of these MTCB units. Like an idiot, I forgot to wipe my information from the unit (Eonon / KLD) before uninstalling it.
The unit is made for plug and play with a Mazda 3. Is there something I can do to power it on without the car, so I can erase all of my information / settings and get it ready for resale. Otherwise I'm not going to feel safe selling it. (Even though I could probably revoke the important accounts from the cloud.)
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dazza007 said:
I used a PC power supply.
You need 3 pins Positive and negative for power and positive for ignition power
Look at the adapter wiring specific for your car and you will figure it out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No need to a PC power supply, an AC Adapter 12v - 2a is sufficient.
Cut the end if the connector and make 3 wire ( 2x positive - 1x negative ).
1 positive, 1 negative wire to the power pins "normally the thin pins" to power up the unit
1 positive wire to the ignition wire to start the unit.

I used a PC power supply, the yellow wires are 12V, black are ground. I just put the battery and ignition wires in the yellow wire plug and the ground in a black wire black on a 4-pin Molex connector.
To turn on the power supply, you have to jumper the green wire to a black wire in the 24-pin motherboard connector.
Make sure the power wires can't touch the ground pins. I kept shorting mine out and took me a couple times to figure out what was happening.

I'm like an absolutely moron with wiring so this sounds fun!
I guess hacking up the adapter is better than never selling the unit anyway. Thanks everyone for all the help.

youtube is your friend when it comes to this.. plenty of video's on it..
I have made one up myself from youtube videos
Sent from my K00C using Tapatalk

P605 Several USB issues

Hi XDA community,
firstly thank you for your all your great jobs here!
I own a P605 Galaxy Note 10.1 2014. It has been "soft"-rooted (through kernel bug, without KNOXing the device) but it has probably gone out of warranty.
I experence some serious issues with any USB-related operation, let me enumerate them:
1) USB Charging: when powered off the tablet charges normally (but slowly), when powered on the tablet charges (fastly) until the screen switches off, then it stops charging.
2) USB OTG: when attatching an OTG cable, the device detect it but when attaching an USB drive nothing happens
3) USB to PC: on a Windows OS, attaching the tablet results in a "Device Descriptor" error, even with the tablet in download mode, so any firmware flashing operation is impossible. On Linux OS there's a similar error, related to device descriptors.
Obviously, when I bought it everything worked fine. Sadly, I suspect an hardware issue... I'm asking you any kind of help: tests to indentify exactly the problem and, hopefully, a solution.
P.S. I've already tried changing USB cable/USB port/PC/charger/mood/wearing/house...:crying:

Hello , i too have this problems, do you run also Lollipop 5.1.1`? Any solution found?

1) If not using the original charger/cable (or non compliant) then there's a possibility thad the data pins of the charger are not shortened. You need a charger compliant with our tablets or data-pins-shorted cable. (you can do it yourself but the cable will only be used for charging)
https://www.ibm.com/developerworks/...ssue_solved_hack_your_usb_cable_today?lang=en
https://www.amazon.co.uk/PortaPow-Charge-Block-Adapter-SmartCharge/dp/B00QRRZ2QM
2) try Es file explorer (remember ntfs is not supported)
3) install kies or try
http://org.downloadcenter.samsung.c...G_USB_Driver_for_Mobile_Phones_v1.5.45.00.exe
(just the usb driver)

I have exactly the same case as #1 and I fixed finally. It's because of the bad contact of the usb cable. Open the back cover (gentle and slowly prevent broke it), disconnect the usb cable from the adapter near camera, wash your hand and keep it dry, touch the golden finger one or two times with your cleaned finger, then connect it back with a little push it to the end, make sure it lock firm. ( I also use a piece 3M plastic tape to stick on the surface ). Power on and test, no problem and then close back the back cover. My machine no more that problem again. Sorry for my english not so good, and hope this can help.

With Davidmueller's Lineage and RR there is a (recurring) charging problem with usb cables. You need a cable like the one supplied, where the second GND line on the m-usb plug is not connected. The plug of the white original cable has the contact missing, i bought a recent, black Samsung cable with 5contacts,also working. None of the other cables i tried, did. The problem was there almost a year ago, got solved and re-occured during the last updates.

Results after the replace of the usb module.
As suggested by Jan&March, I tried cleaning the usb module connector on the motherboard. It solved EVERY issue for about 3 days, then they came up again. So I thought that maybe, touching and cleaning the connector, there was some bad contact on the cable. I bought a replacement part for the usb module. It has been working for about 2 weeks before showing the same issues today. I hope I'm helping someone with my experience. Any suggestions?

The pcb jack may have bad solder joints. I never had the case open, but i think the usb and display connectors belong to the components bearing most of the pressure exerted on the back cover. Except the battery and the metal shieldings on the pcb stand out more,which can only be told if you have the back cover removed.

lecorbusier said:
The pcb jack may have bad solder joints. I never had the case open, but i think the usb and display connectors belong to the components bearing most of the pressure exerted on the back cover. Except the battery and the metal shieldings on the pcb stand out more,which can only be told if you have the back cover removed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, so what do you recommend?

That would require re-soldering. It's hard to tell, it's less likely if the connector's aren't among the most prominent parts under the back cover and won't make contact with it. I can't tell from the pics i've seen.

Jan&March said:
I have exactly the same case as #1 and I fixed finally. It's because of the bad contact of the usb cable. Open the back cover (gentle and slowly prevent broke it), disconnect the usb cable from the adapter near camera, wash your hand and keep it dry, touch the golden finger one or two times with your cleaned finger, then connect it back with a little push it to the end, make sure it lock firm. ( I also use a piece 3M plastic tape to stick on the surface ). Power on and test, no problem and then close back the back cover. My machine no more that problem again. Sorry for my english not so good, and hope this can help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this just did it for me. i think the bracket that secures the ribbon cable isn't exerting enough pressure on the cable so maybe some data pins may not be in contact.

Broken power ribbon cable

Hello guys,
I have replaced my battery today, but it seems as I was struggling to remove the glue I have ripped the side buttons ribbon cable a little, therefore the power button is not working and I can't power on the device.
When I plug it in a computer, I can see it charging. In device manager it is showing up as DVD Device - HTC Android Phone USB Device and as a USB Mass Storage Device. I have tried fastboot and adb and they are not responding.
I only want to power on the device, so I can use it, because for a new cable to arrive it will take like two months.
Any help is appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
EDIT: This is the part where it got ripped.
As I was looking for a cable from ebay, I noticed something. The cable there on the bending has only one track!
The first thing I immediately tried was touching the two parts of the cable to try to reconnect it, so I can at least power the phone on, but it didn't work.
What I was also thinking is to put some kind of conductor between the rippage, but I thought there were more than one path on the circuit and that I can put electricity where I don't want it.
Now, looking at this one circuit path do you think putting a solder wire in between could transfer the power up signal? Or is it not a good idea? Is it possible that there are more connections inside beside that track?
P.S: I am not a very good electrician, I have soldered some pins, but I really have no deep knowledge in that area.
EDIT: I have fixed this by buying a new module from ebay and replacing it.

sofia EDL points found

after two days straight of beating my head against the wall i finally found the EDL points
they're located under the usb ribbon cable and are a ***** to short because of that
I'm currently facing an issue with getting the device to stay connected to my pc but im not sure if its just my setup

using a piece of solder wick,

For me, a small piece of solder wick just disintegrates into the individual strands. So I tried soldering some "wire wrap" wire to each pad, and then short the 2 wires together. So there's another approach to dealing with these hard to access points. But I didn't see anything appear in Device Manager so I wonder if I'm doing something wrong or if these aren't actually the edl points. Has anyone had success actually getting to the point where they can blank flash their phone?
FWIW mine's a Stylus, but it's very similar to the Power (I've installed sofia roms on it) and the mobo looks identical.

hola el modo EDL es J y L de tu foto ya lo descubri lo que me pasa es que no se mantiene 5 segundo y se desconecta... espero les sirva y si les pasa lo mismo avisan

The preceeding post seems to say that she found the J & L test points in the first photo to be the correct ones.
Shorting random things can cause resets. It's best to be sure what are actually EDL points.
I'd warn anybody to not indiscriminately short random points on your phone.
The EDL test point is a (fairly high impedance with a pull-down resistor) input so you don't have to short anything.
You can use a resistor that is of low enough value (maybe 1000 ohms) that it is as good as a short (as far as the correct input goes) to poke around with.
If you short a power supply with the 1000 ohm resistor it won't mind.
Also, one point should be 1.8V, the other should measure 0V.
What @TheShanMan says is a good idea. Use teensy tiny (30 AWG) wire to connect to test points.
Thick wire can rip up the little solder pads.
Also, if you do this often, you can run your teeny wires to a magnetic reed switch so that you can activate it with a magnet on the back cover.
(It doesn't do any harm when it's activated when your device is running normally.)

I can confirm that the J and L points are the correct ones on an xt2041-4, at least they were for me. You will also need the battery plugged in to get the phone to show up on your computer, or at least I did. I would recommend not doing anything you see in this thread unless you have 0 other options for your phone. It is very easy to damage or completely kill your phone if you screw around with the motherboard like this.
That being said, I needed to solder a set of wires to the J and L points because I didn't have a good tool to jump them manually. You may also want to consider doing so because, in my experience, it took many trials and errors to not only get the phone to show up, but to keep it there, and the pads are fairly difficult to reach when you have the battery still plugged in (which again, you need to do). This isn't something I'd recommend doing normally, but if it's the difference between your phone being bricked and it working again, it might be worth considering if you don't have luck with a tweezers or other tools. I would also consider doing so because, in my case, the procedure that I needed to do to get the EDL mode to show up was time sensitive and required unplugging and plugging the battery back in. I'm sure my procedure can be improved and that there is a logic to it, but it was the only way I could get the phone to show up.
Make sure that if you solder wires to the jumpers, that you strip the absolute minimum amount of the wire's sheath off for the ends you intend to solder to these points. Any exposed metal around this area can bridge the battery or USB power if you're reckless, impatient, or have no hope like I did. I'm speaking from experience as there were a couple times where I even made sparks trying to touch these jumpers with a wire or tweezers.
And now, my procedure. You'll see why I think the wires are kind of critical. Make sure that, if you try this, you read the whole procedure first and get familiar with it before you try.
If your phone is plugged into USB-C, unplug it, but make sure the USB ribbon cable is connected on the motherboard. Unplug the battery's ribbon cable from the motherboard.
Wait 5 seconds, then do the following steps within 5 seconds.
Plug the battery into the motherboard.
Connect your EDL jumpers and make sure they stay connected.
Hold the volume down button while you plug in your USB-C cable.
Hold the power button while still holding the volume down button.
Within about 15 seconds (in my experience it was almost always less than 10), you should hear the device connection noise (on Windows). After this, you can let the power and volume buttons go.
At this point, assuming you already have the motorola and qualcomm drivers installed, it should show up as 9008. You can then use one of the blankflash tools that you can either get from lolinet or scrounge up on the forums. The ones on lolinet didn't work for me. I had to dig for one that the smart Brazilian folks had. This is the version I used on my RETUS phone: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mHVOjqMyUJJeCkUPaf2YfUwf_tLykiSm/view
If you get your phone to show up but it keeps disconnect and reconnecting itself, you need a different USB cable. This is something that happened to me. Also try other ports on your computer because it could be the USB controller for that particular port. While this was happening to me, I found out that the device manager can actually stop working and it will not detect when devices are plugged in or unplugged. You can see if that happens by manually going to the top left, then doing Actions > Scan for Hardware Changes. If the little window pops up and it freezes, you're stuck. I had to restart my PC when that happened.
I have some documentation on this and I intend to compile it into a guide in the future. If you have any immediate questions, feel free to message me. If there are any corrections you have for my process, please share, because I'm not a dev nor have I ever taken apart a phone like this before. Thanks.

Awesome, @Vvanderfell ! Your procedure might explain why it didn't seem to show up in Windows for me. I'll have to give those steps a try sometime soon. Thanks for figuring this out and sharing all the details!