Hello,
Apparently my Samsung Note 10+ battery temperature sensor stopped working and I need to ask you a question.
Whenever I try to charge my Note 10+ I get an error message saying that my battery temperature is too cold, it prevents me from charging the phone.
I downloaded an app that measures the temperature of the battery and it says that the temperature is at -20C.
I've already tried to leave it turned off, on, near a heat source, near the hair dryer and so on, none of that works, the cell phone is too hot, but this warning that the battery is too cold continues...
I also tried to disable fast charging/wireless charging, formatting etc, but nothing had any effect, the only thing I didn't do was unmount the phone.
Anyway, my question is, the message that prevents my phone from charging is probably from the operating system (OneUi or Android 11), my doubt is: if I install another operating system/Custom Rom, there is a possibility of " cheat" this message that prevents the cell phone from charging?
Thanks !
Replace battery. Pretty sure that's where the failed sensor is located. See if you can find a source toverify this.
If so it may indicate a battery failure as well.
Samsung has a thermistor that communicates with the power IC that is probably damaged. Replacing it will help you resolve the problem.
miravision said:
Samsung has a thermistor on the charging daughterboard that is probably damaged. Replacing it will help you resolve the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried to find the thermistor for the battery temperature with DevChek. All the reported ones didn't correspond to the reported battery temperature. My deduction was it was the battery it's self. Probably more likely for better responsiveness.
An easy fix if so... the C port pcb is also cheap and relatively easy to replace.
Regardless until it's fixed, it won't charge. It's an important safety feature.
You could try a hard reboot in the off chance it's a freak glitch.
Samsung Galaxy Note10+ Charging Paused Problems
Charging Paused Massage
Battery Temperature Too Low.
Samsung Note10+ SM-N976V heats up during charging.
No response when the charger is connected.
Samsung Galaxy Note10+ Charging Paused Problem Repair Solution:The Problem is the charging paused or we called a thermistor.
so you need to remove the thermistor or replace it from the other board.
Just Follow the Picture Shown Below.
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In order to overcome the water damage problem, all you have to do is to:Clean charging dock strip and check.
If the problem persists or if the pins are damaged then you need to replace the entire charging dock strip.
Now check the voltage of the 1st pin (from right) of the charging connector with the help of a Multi-Meter, if there is a problem then re-solder the charging pin.
Now check voltage at the capacitor, if it is zero then check whether it is short or not if it then changes the capacitor. If not then:
Check the connection between the charging pin and Capacitor, if the connection is broken re-solder it or place a jumper.
The charge is provided to the Samsung Galaxy Note10+ board via Capacitor.
Repair Samsung Galaxy Note10+ Charging Paused Problem
Hello, mobile technician here is the full solution of Samsung Galaxy Note10+ 5G Charging paused battery temperature is too low problem repair solution in
www.mobilerdx.com
That gave me a headache...
This seems more likely.
Great find. I like when people share their take on problem solving. Collective thinking is what helps us all make progress.
Was the phone dropped or exposed to water?
Probably for a device of this value a good repair shop be the best option.
Use DevChek to try to ID the failed thermistor circuit. No circuit schematic makes troubleshooting more difficult...
It could be something other than a failed thermistor. Low temperature thermistors seldom fail; a failed or loose connector, solder crack or mobo trace failure are just as possible.
Related
Hi guys, so a few weeks back, I experienced reboots and I classified them as 'random'. Thought maybe it was TouchWiz so I changed to CM11. Still had reboots. The only way to stop them was either put it on charge as it rebooted or leave it off for a while. I thought, maybe my battery percentage is just wrong.
Then after a while on CM11, the issue was gone. And it was, until today. I downloaded my games that I had before and I experienced reboots again and I thought maybe it was just this specific game (Sky Force 2014). So I tried Need For Speed. And it rebooted after a while in the game.
Every time I play these games, the device gets very hot. They are quite high graphic games and obviously require a lot of process power. Do you think that these reboots are caused because the tab overheats? Has anyone been in a similar situation?
I don't live in a hot country?
Thanks
Zakanam said:
Hi guys, so a few weeks back, I experienced reboots and I classified them as 'random'. Thought maybe it was TouchWiz so I changed to CM11. Still had reboots. The only way to stop them was either put it on charge as it rebooted or leave it off for a while. I thought, maybe my battery percentage is just wrong.
Then after a while on CM11, the issue was gone. And it was, until today. I downloaded my games that I had before and I experienced reboots again and I thought maybe it was just this specific game (Sky Force 2014). So I tried Need For Speed. And it rebooted after a while in the game.
Every time I play these games, the device gets very hot. They are quite high graphic games and obviously require a lot of process power. Do you think that these reboots are caused because the tab overheats? Has anyone been in a similar situation?
I don't live in a hot country?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sounds like a hardware issue. but it could be caused by glitchy software too!
a few weeks back i had an "overheat" issue but it didn't get so bad that the device started rebooting.
i noticed it pretty early on and although i'm not sure which APP caused it, it hasn't repeated since then.
i confirmed that my overheat issue was due to CPU: when i checked my cpu status in "CPU-Z" i found that two of my four cores were "locked" at 2.3GHz and never idled, even if i closed all the apps on my device! very strange.
maybe you should install CPU-Z too and see what it reports about your CPU cores. it also has a temperature monitor, but it only reports battery temperature.
I'm having exactly the same problem. Any guess on how to fix it?
ivansaab said:
I'm having exactly the same problem. Any guess on how to fix it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most of Samsung tablet's overheat problem is causing by cracked battery connector.
Resolder the battery connector will fix this issue. Imagine this, you're running an application which requires 20 amperes wire on a power cord which can only handle 10 amperes, it will overheat and burn. The same thing happens when current runs through cracked solder joints of battery connector.
Beut said:
Most of Samsung tablet's overheat problem is causing by cracked battery connector.
Resolder the battery connector will fix this issue. Imagine this, you're running an application which requires 20 amperes wire on a power cord which can only handle 10 amperes, it will overheat and burn. The same thing happens when current runs through cracked solder joints of battery connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where exactly do you propose to solder? Can you provide a picture?
Regards
modestos said:
Where exactly do you propose to solder? Can you provide a picture?
Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This black battery connector needs to be re soldered. This battery connector is used in most Samsung tablets
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This is an example, more solders added to secure this connector which is prone to crack in most Samsung tablets
This overheating problem I just fixed yesterday by resoldering the battery connector, this fix is applied
to all Samsung tablets as they use the same connector
EDIT: Please move this to Q&A and help section.. sorry.
Hello fellow tablet users.
Since the lost 2 weeks my tablet has been acting weird. It jumps alot on the battery levels, one second having 50% then 13% then suddenly 3% then plugging in the charger it has 50%.
I've tried to charge it fully then making a battery calibration but with no luck.. what should I do next? Full reset?
Kind regards,
Ratty
If you have the 8.4" it`s most likely an bad battery connection, due to an bad power connector or the part of the connector that is soldered to the motherboard coming loose, it`s an common problem with the 8.4" with people bending it while in back pockets ect, less of an problem with the 10.5" as you would need an hell of a back pocket.
Samsung knows about this problem, and according to one 8.4" owner replaced the battery connector with an more heavy duty version, some people say to solder the battery wires directly to the motherboard.
It`s quite easy to open the Tab S, lots of video`s on youtube and you just need an plastic pry tool they call an spluger or an guitar pick, I got an spluger on ebay for £1 an replacement battery is £9 an full kit is around $60 for battery and tools if you can do the job yourself.
https://www.newpower99.com/Samsung_...tery_Kit_p/samsung-galaxy-tab-s-8.4smt700.htm
https://www.newpower99.com/Samsung_...attery_Kit_p/samsung-galaxy-tab-s-sm-t800.htm
John.
ratty123 said:
Since the last 2 weeks my tablet has been acting weird. It jumps alot on the battery levels, one second having 50% then 13% then suddenly 3% then plugging in the charger it has 50%.
I've tried to charge it fully then making a battery calibration but with no luck.. what should I do next? Full reset?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reset won't solve a hardware problem, it's very common in Samsung tablets : cracked or loose battery connector : male and female.
This is a close look of female connector:
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If it's not fully contact with male connector's pins, you will have battery fluctuation in capacity. The fix is simple: push the opening closer for all six cables.
This is the male connector , it's re soldered to fix battery quick discharge or capacity fluctuation
I'm having this problem for a long time on my TabS 10.5". I think it's time to discard this device but I'm low of budget to buy a good tablet now, is it secure to open it and bypass battery using direct connection to charging cable from the original USB cable? There are some videos on how to do it, but none of this device.
They are not engineered the same as laptops. They always run off the battery, whether the tablet is plugged in or not. This is a series arrangement. A laptop has power source switcher inside and can run off either; that's a parallel arrangement.
The battery completes the circuit. The charge cord doesn't connect directly to the tablet because the battery is in between. Outlet-->charge cord-->battery-->tablet. You can't just jump over a step.The battery completes the circuit. The charge cord doesn't connect directly to the tablet because the battery is in between. Outlet-->charge cord-->battery-->tablet. You can't just jump over a step.
They are designed on an idea that the user will use it on the go, rather than sitting at a fixed location connected to a charger.
As such, the internal circuitry of a tablet allows the device to work only when the battery is connected to it.
Bypass the battery for direct connection
Hi,
I have a similar connector for the battery on a Samsung Tab GT-P5200.
I want to directly connect the (two) wires from USB power source and bypass the defective battery and the normal mimi USB connector.
Therefore can someone help me out with matching the colours?
Tere is just +-(red/black wires on USB) and the connector from the battery has two red, two bue and two black.
I presume at least two should charge the battery and other two should transport the charge from the battery. And the blue ones maybe for control?
Please give me your though, or maybe suggest other place on the bord co connect directly.
Thank you!
Hello,
I have several Tab Pro's that are all having the same problem. I have charged the devices to 100% then when it sits for a few days it will not turn back on. I have plugged it back in and it show 0%.
This is what i have done to try and find the issue...
1. I have reset all cables
2.Tried different batteries (USED)
3.Re-Rom with ODIN and Factory reset
4.Checked the pins on battery terminal for bad solder contacts
5.Waiting on new batteries
Now the interesting part. I charged 2 devices to 100% then disconnected the battery from the Logic board so I could check to see if the battery is discharging on its own. After 3 days I reconnected the battery terminal and tried to turn it back on. They will not power on, then I plug in the charger and battery icon shows up with 100% and then I'm able to turn it back on. Any ideas what the issues with these are I have about 8 of them all doing the same thing?
Thank you,
The battery doesn't discharge on its own so fast like your description. I have a Tab Pro 12.2 , which is off almost 3 months, when turns on it still keep the charge at 99%
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The problem is from the cracked battery connector, it will cause intermittent connection. Trust me, remove the back cover, use your hand to press directly on the battery connector while turning it on, it might work depending how bad the crack is. All you need is resolder the battery connector.
Beut said:
The battery doesn't discharge on its own so fast like your description. I have a Tab Pro 12.2 , which is off almost 3 months, when turns on it still keep the charge at 99%
The problem is from the cracked battery connector, it will cause intermittent connection. Trust me, remove the back cover, use your hand to press directly on the battery connector while turning it on, it might work depending how bad the crack is. All you need is resolder the battery connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have tried to resolder a few of them and they still do not turn on or they discharge the battery. I have a few that I charged the batteries up to 100% and disconnected them from the battery terminal on the logic board over the weekend. They all still do not turn on, then I connect the charger and the battery icon shows up with 100% then I can turn it on. I have tried what you said and pushed on the terminals on all of the ones I have and not one will turn on. I'm starting to think there is a issue with the power management chip on the board. Has anyone tried to replace any of these?
I have had issues with SM-t/p900 12.2 pros that had the issues you are talking about, not charging, flickering screen, and the terminals needed to be resoldered. I could actually push the pins up and down. The SM-t520 pins are solid and do not move.
Finally understanded the problem Thanks to "Dusan Milanovic" @DusanMilanovicLgTec
In my case it was:
- 50% Battery problem
- 50% Qualcomm Power IC Chip
But in most cases it solves by just letting the Phone charge normally for a few hours.
How I solved it:
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAKE TO YOUR PHONE, HOUSE, GRANDMA ETC.
REQUIREMENTS:
- Alluminium foil (biscuit metallic paper) not plastic
- Hairdryer (It seems stupid ahah)
- Chronometer
- Attention!
- A bit of patience
BATTERY PHASE
- Open the Phone and remove Fingerprint board.
- Remove the Battery.
- Put the battery on an universal charger.(VERY DANGEROUS)
(do this only if you are sure that the battery is discharged and don't want to charge)
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Let it charge for an hour more and less.
POWER IC CHIP. PHASE
- Remove the metallic protection between the camera and the battery slot.
- Look for a black chip surrounded by little grey chips. (POWER IC)
- Protect everything in the motherboard with the Alluminium foil except for the black chip.
BE VERY CAREFUL, PROTECT EVERY SINGLE GREY CHIP NEAR THE POWER IC CHIP.
-Prepare the Chronometer 1 minute.
(NOT MORE THAN 2 MINUTES OR YOU MAY SERIOUSLY DAMAGE THE MOTHERBOARD)
-Use the Hairdryer to heat the POWER IC CHIP
(DO NOT USE HEATGUN). The chip needs to reach around 100°C
-After you heated the chip let it cool down for a minute or two
-Remount the metallic protection.
LAST PHASE
- Put the battery on the phone
- close everything
- Try to boot it
ALL DONE?:highfive:
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
- always shows 100% battery. → buy a new battery( this one is Dead)
-Doesn't boot.↓
→Are you sure your battery is charged?
No: Try charging it externally (VERY DANGEROUS)
Yes: then try to heat again the POWER IC CHIP (2 MINUTES MAX)
→Still nothing?
- Buy a new Battery, this is the best choice.
- If even after you use the new Battery the Phone doesn't boot , just heat again that pain in the ass of a ic CHIP.
My theory is the overheat is caused by cheap USB type-c cables and/or high voltage chargers. Using original or high quality one avoid to overheat when it charges and, consequently, decreases risk of geting the problem in the solders.
Dammer Martins said:
My theory is the overheat is caused by cheap USB type-c cables and/or high voltage chargers. Using original or high quality one avoid to overheat when it charges and, consequently, decreases risk of geting the problem in the solders.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I agree, using high quality cables is the best thing to do, to prevent this problem
MounirHero
:good::good::good::good:Tnx MounirHero
Hello everyone. My question is related to the pin connector and battery life:
3 months ago, i though it was moment for battery replacement of my S 8.4, but in the process i broke the 6-pin connector placed in the board. So, I tried to deal with it and charge the new battery once, with the connector slightly detached and badly soldered. It went bad since wasn't charging normally, i screwed badly the connector so had to replace it.
I ordered the new connector with an official tech support. Connector took few weeks to arrive (i live in Chile). I did the microsoldering with a lot of troubles, and after watching tutorials and buying soldering stuff, practicing and studying the possible troubles i could face, i finally did it (see the pic). Anyway I'm skeptic about what i just did XD (btw i used soldering paste for smd, really cool stuff)
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Now it's charging, after 3 hrs it went from 20 - 90%. My questions are 2:
1) considering that many experts point out that lithium battery's first charge is extremely important for technical reasons (SEI forming on first charge cycle; non full charge leads to fading over time), should i replace my battery soon, if i stored at 20% for 2 months?
2) how do i know if i soldered correctly the connector, should i consider the time it takes (normally charging cycle was around 3 hrs 30 from 0 - 100%)?
Thanks!
need help with soldering
Hi buddy , have a similar needs as yours, except in my case i did not break the connector , it broke by itself after a few months , guess a bad solder at the samsung factory itself .
So now coming to the point , i ordered a new connector and was thinking to solder it myself as service center was charging a hefty price for a small repair . Could you please guide me as to what all is required to do it properly .
li-ion battery`s dont need a forming charge on first charge.
Dont run the battery too low as the battery can fail, I don't go below 20% (I use a charge level alarm)
I don't charge above 80%(I use a charge alarm) , I have charged to 100% only 7 time in 28months(only after flashing or upgrades to calibrate the battery gauge)
i have used my T800 every day and no problems so far.
John.
Im also having the same problem...
The connector pin just came off from the motherboard...In my case..im so afraid to do the microsoldering,however i tried “reflow solder” heat up the connecter while sticking it on the motherboard for few seconds...then let it cool...yes it was succesfully connected..but its not strong enough...it just came off again when i grabbed the tablet to put on its backcover...The main reason why im scared to do the microsoldering is what if i accidently damaged other components in the motherboard...is there any other way to solve this issue other replacing the motherboard...