Finally understanded the problem Thanks to "Dusan Milanovic" @DusanMilanovicLgTec
In my case it was:
- 50% Battery problem
- 50% Qualcomm Power IC Chip
But in most cases it solves by just letting the Phone charge normally for a few hours.
How I solved it:
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAKE TO YOUR PHONE, HOUSE, GRANDMA ETC.
REQUIREMENTS:
- Alluminium foil (biscuit metallic paper) not plastic
- Hairdryer (It seems stupid ahah)
- Chronometer
- Attention!
- A bit of patience
BATTERY PHASE
- Open the Phone and remove Fingerprint board.
- Remove the Battery.
- Put the battery on an universal charger.(VERY DANGEROUS)
(do this only if you are sure that the battery is discharged and don't want to charge)
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Let it charge for an hour more and less.
POWER IC CHIP. PHASE
- Remove the metallic protection between the camera and the battery slot.
- Look for a black chip surrounded by little grey chips. (POWER IC)
- Protect everything in the motherboard with the Alluminium foil except for the black chip.
BE VERY CAREFUL, PROTECT EVERY SINGLE GREY CHIP NEAR THE POWER IC CHIP.
-Prepare the Chronometer 1 minute.
(NOT MORE THAN 2 MINUTES OR YOU MAY SERIOUSLY DAMAGE THE MOTHERBOARD)
-Use the Hairdryer to heat the POWER IC CHIP
(DO NOT USE HEATGUN). The chip needs to reach around 100°C
-After you heated the chip let it cool down for a minute or two
-Remount the metallic protection.
LAST PHASE
- Put the battery on the phone
- close everything
- Try to boot it
ALL DONE?:highfive:
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
- always shows 100% battery. → buy a new battery( this one is Dead)
-Doesn't boot.↓
→Are you sure your battery is charged?
No: Try charging it externally (VERY DANGEROUS)
Yes: then try to heat again the POWER IC CHIP (2 MINUTES MAX)
→Still nothing?
- Buy a new Battery, this is the best choice.
- If even after you use the new Battery the Phone doesn't boot , just heat again that pain in the ass of a ic CHIP.
My theory is the overheat is caused by cheap USB type-c cables and/or high voltage chargers. Using original or high quality one avoid to overheat when it charges and, consequently, decreases risk of geting the problem in the solders.
Dammer Martins said:
My theory is the overheat is caused by cheap USB type-c cables and/or high voltage chargers. Using original or high quality one avoid to overheat when it charges and, consequently, decreases risk of geting the problem in the solders.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I agree, using high quality cables is the best thing to do, to prevent this problem
MounirHero
:good::good::good::good:Tnx MounirHero
Related
Weighs in at 1.5 pounds, it pack's 26000 mAh battery in a smaller package, enough to charge your mobile phones and more. Perfect for everyday use, longer trips and emergency situations.
initial thoughts on unpacking.
comes with a pretty nice carry case pouch.has exterior pocket for all wires and adapters.nice packaging. love the brushed aluminum look.
Features:
Huge capacity, 26000mAh, provides 1 full charge to most laptops or approximately 12 cycles to most smartphones; Perfect for using on travelling and outdoor activities
Brand New AAAA Li-Polymer battery cell ensures reliability and safety; 1000+ recharge cycles over the life of the battery
Power conversion: if the output ports, 1*USB(5V 2.1A)+1*DC(12V/4A, 16V/3.5A or 19V/3A), are not connected to any digital device or the connected device is already fully charged, Intocircuit PC26000 will shut down automatically and goes into a sleep mode to conserve power
Stylish quality design with aluminum alloy body, safer and more sturdy than plastic
Package includes: Intocircuit® PC26000 Battery, 12 connectors for most laptops, 10 connectors for phones and other devices, 1 DC power wire/ 1 USB spring power wire, 1 18.5V 2A AC Adapter(A full charger only takes 5-6 hours using the provided charger)
specs below
Battery cells Lithium Polymer
Volt 18.5V 2A
Charging port Specifications
Output: USB(5V 2.1A)+DC*1(12V/ 16V/ 19V)(3.5A Max)
Pics.
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my over all thoughts. its a beautifully made external power bank. twice the size of anything i was ever given the chance to test. its charged my ipod and my note 3 and wifes s3 from dead to full no issues. my only two issues.
1. i have a dell studio laptop. i have a larger 9 cell battery on it. well this will register its connected but not charge. little disappointed.
2. I have a asus tablet. shares same connection as most samsung tablets. while it comes with a plethora of connectors.this one seems to be lacking. as for usb .not enough juice to charge it with cord that way.
over all its a great bank. if your looking to have juice in a emergency then this is for you. if your looking to do every device you own. check compatibility first.
thank you for your time.
VENDORS WANT YOUR PRODUCTS REVIEWED??? SEND ME A PM
EDIT: Please move this to Q&A and help section.. sorry.
Hello fellow tablet users.
Since the lost 2 weeks my tablet has been acting weird. It jumps alot on the battery levels, one second having 50% then 13% then suddenly 3% then plugging in the charger it has 50%.
I've tried to charge it fully then making a battery calibration but with no luck.. what should I do next? Full reset?
Kind regards,
Ratty
If you have the 8.4" it`s most likely an bad battery connection, due to an bad power connector or the part of the connector that is soldered to the motherboard coming loose, it`s an common problem with the 8.4" with people bending it while in back pockets ect, less of an problem with the 10.5" as you would need an hell of a back pocket.
Samsung knows about this problem, and according to one 8.4" owner replaced the battery connector with an more heavy duty version, some people say to solder the battery wires directly to the motherboard.
It`s quite easy to open the Tab S, lots of video`s on youtube and you just need an plastic pry tool they call an spluger or an guitar pick, I got an spluger on ebay for £1 an replacement battery is £9 an full kit is around $60 for battery and tools if you can do the job yourself.
https://www.newpower99.com/Samsung_...tery_Kit_p/samsung-galaxy-tab-s-8.4smt700.htm
https://www.newpower99.com/Samsung_...attery_Kit_p/samsung-galaxy-tab-s-sm-t800.htm
John.
ratty123 said:
Since the last 2 weeks my tablet has been acting weird. It jumps alot on the battery levels, one second having 50% then 13% then suddenly 3% then plugging in the charger it has 50%.
I've tried to charge it fully then making a battery calibration but with no luck.. what should I do next? Full reset?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reset won't solve a hardware problem, it's very common in Samsung tablets : cracked or loose battery connector : male and female.
This is a close look of female connector:
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If it's not fully contact with male connector's pins, you will have battery fluctuation in capacity. The fix is simple: push the opening closer for all six cables.
This is the male connector , it's re soldered to fix battery quick discharge or capacity fluctuation
I'm having this problem for a long time on my TabS 10.5". I think it's time to discard this device but I'm low of budget to buy a good tablet now, is it secure to open it and bypass battery using direct connection to charging cable from the original USB cable? There are some videos on how to do it, but none of this device.
They are not engineered the same as laptops. They always run off the battery, whether the tablet is plugged in or not. This is a series arrangement. A laptop has power source switcher inside and can run off either; that's a parallel arrangement.
The battery completes the circuit. The charge cord doesn't connect directly to the tablet because the battery is in between. Outlet-->charge cord-->battery-->tablet. You can't just jump over a step.The battery completes the circuit. The charge cord doesn't connect directly to the tablet because the battery is in between. Outlet-->charge cord-->battery-->tablet. You can't just jump over a step.
They are designed on an idea that the user will use it on the go, rather than sitting at a fixed location connected to a charger.
As such, the internal circuitry of a tablet allows the device to work only when the battery is connected to it.
Bypass the battery for direct connection
Hi,
I have a similar connector for the battery on a Samsung Tab GT-P5200.
I want to directly connect the (two) wires from USB power source and bypass the defective battery and the normal mimi USB connector.
Therefore can someone help me out with matching the colours?
Tere is just +-(red/black wires on USB) and the connector from the battery has two red, two bue and two black.
I presume at least two should charge the battery and other two should transport the charge from the battery. And the blue ones maybe for control?
Please give me your though, or maybe suggest other place on the bord co connect directly.
Thank you!
Hello,
I have several Tab Pro's that are all having the same problem. I have charged the devices to 100% then when it sits for a few days it will not turn back on. I have plugged it back in and it show 0%.
This is what i have done to try and find the issue...
1. I have reset all cables
2.Tried different batteries (USED)
3.Re-Rom with ODIN and Factory reset
4.Checked the pins on battery terminal for bad solder contacts
5.Waiting on new batteries
Now the interesting part. I charged 2 devices to 100% then disconnected the battery from the Logic board so I could check to see if the battery is discharging on its own. After 3 days I reconnected the battery terminal and tried to turn it back on. They will not power on, then I plug in the charger and battery icon shows up with 100% and then I'm able to turn it back on. Any ideas what the issues with these are I have about 8 of them all doing the same thing?
Thank you,
The battery doesn't discharge on its own so fast like your description. I have a Tab Pro 12.2 , which is off almost 3 months, when turns on it still keep the charge at 99%
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The problem is from the cracked battery connector, it will cause intermittent connection. Trust me, remove the back cover, use your hand to press directly on the battery connector while turning it on, it might work depending how bad the crack is. All you need is resolder the battery connector.
Beut said:
The battery doesn't discharge on its own so fast like your description. I have a Tab Pro 12.2 , which is off almost 3 months, when turns on it still keep the charge at 99%
The problem is from the cracked battery connector, it will cause intermittent connection. Trust me, remove the back cover, use your hand to press directly on the battery connector while turning it on, it might work depending how bad the crack is. All you need is resolder the battery connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have tried to resolder a few of them and they still do not turn on or they discharge the battery. I have a few that I charged the batteries up to 100% and disconnected them from the battery terminal on the logic board over the weekend. They all still do not turn on, then I connect the charger and the battery icon shows up with 100% then I can turn it on. I have tried what you said and pushed on the terminals on all of the ones I have and not one will turn on. I'm starting to think there is a issue with the power management chip on the board. Has anyone tried to replace any of these?
I have had issues with SM-t/p900 12.2 pros that had the issues you are talking about, not charging, flickering screen, and the terminals needed to be resoldered. I could actually push the pins up and down. The SM-t520 pins are solid and do not move.
Hello everyone. My question is related to the pin connector and battery life:
3 months ago, i though it was moment for battery replacement of my S 8.4, but in the process i broke the 6-pin connector placed in the board. So, I tried to deal with it and charge the new battery once, with the connector slightly detached and badly soldered. It went bad since wasn't charging normally, i screwed badly the connector so had to replace it.
I ordered the new connector with an official tech support. Connector took few weeks to arrive (i live in Chile). I did the microsoldering with a lot of troubles, and after watching tutorials and buying soldering stuff, practicing and studying the possible troubles i could face, i finally did it (see the pic). Anyway I'm skeptic about what i just did XD (btw i used soldering paste for smd, really cool stuff)
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Now it's charging, after 3 hrs it went from 20 - 90%. My questions are 2:
1) considering that many experts point out that lithium battery's first charge is extremely important for technical reasons (SEI forming on first charge cycle; non full charge leads to fading over time), should i replace my battery soon, if i stored at 20% for 2 months?
2) how do i know if i soldered correctly the connector, should i consider the time it takes (normally charging cycle was around 3 hrs 30 from 0 - 100%)?
Thanks!
need help with soldering
Hi buddy , have a similar needs as yours, except in my case i did not break the connector , it broke by itself after a few months , guess a bad solder at the samsung factory itself .
So now coming to the point , i ordered a new connector and was thinking to solder it myself as service center was charging a hefty price for a small repair . Could you please guide me as to what all is required to do it properly .
li-ion battery`s dont need a forming charge on first charge.
Dont run the battery too low as the battery can fail, I don't go below 20% (I use a charge level alarm)
I don't charge above 80%(I use a charge alarm) , I have charged to 100% only 7 time in 28months(only after flashing or upgrades to calibrate the battery gauge)
i have used my T800 every day and no problems so far.
John.
Im also having the same problem...
The connector pin just came off from the motherboard...In my case..im so afraid to do the microsoldering,however i tried “reflow solder” heat up the connecter while sticking it on the motherboard for few seconds...then let it cool...yes it was succesfully connected..but its not strong enough...it just came off again when i grabbed the tablet to put on its backcover...The main reason why im scared to do the microsoldering is what if i accidently damaged other components in the motherboard...is there any other way to solve this issue other replacing the motherboard...
Hi this is a specific issue that may occur. The fix is a simple mechanical one so there should be no harm to try it. I don't advocate disabling any of the thermal protections because you may damage your device.
Somethimes you will find your LG G# ( and probably G4) shutting off saying the temperature is too high even though the set is only mildly warm and the battery once opened is comparatively cool. If you use battery temperature monitoring software ( I use osmonitor 3.5.0.7 from eolwral) you will see spurious battery temparature reading of the order of 110 + degrees faranheit just before phone shutoff even though the battery is cool to the touch.
I belive the reason for this is the battery temperature sensor lies on the top edge of the battery just beside the battery contacts . This sensor is normally pressed against the battery pack. However over time and due to the way the upper plastic tab which houses the charging circuitry and battery contacts is placed it can separate from the battery pack. when this happens the sensor is no longer able to read the values from the actual pack and starts giving spuriously high values probably as a failsafe measure.
There is a simple fix for this. Take some celltape and wrap the battery from top to bottom. this forces the top plastic tab back down against the battery pack and enables it to get consistent readings again. I first suspected this when I bought some refurbished batteryes and found that they had a slightly different silver covering that included a flap that went over the top part of the battery . Subsequeitly I opened Up a battry that had failed and noted that there is a thermal pad between the lower part of the plastic tab and the battery pack on the inside.
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There is an issue with this... Even if a temperature sensor is detached from the battery the readings it would have would still be within the acceptable range as if a battery is cold/unused it doesnt freak out. Pressing the pcb against the battery works for some but not all and i believe it depends on the version of the battery. The 2014 batteries and the 2015/2016 ones arent the same. Paper trick works for the earlier ones but the later ones require a solder
LG g3 F400l
I have LG g3 F400l I use this from an year ago last time when I use my mobile it won't charge the charging was struck at 1% then I remove battery and reinsert into mobile but the mobile show invalid battery sign then I remove battery again and reinsert it then mobile show something in Korean language I translate it and it show charging paused due to high temperature if anyone have solutions please help me ?