Hi this is a specific issue that may occur. The fix is a simple mechanical one so there should be no harm to try it. I don't advocate disabling any of the thermal protections because you may damage your device.
Somethimes you will find your LG G# ( and probably G4) shutting off saying the temperature is too high even though the set is only mildly warm and the battery once opened is comparatively cool. If you use battery temperature monitoring software ( I use osmonitor 3.5.0.7 from eolwral) you will see spurious battery temparature reading of the order of 110 + degrees faranheit just before phone shutoff even though the battery is cool to the touch.
I belive the reason for this is the battery temperature sensor lies on the top edge of the battery just beside the battery contacts . This sensor is normally pressed against the battery pack. However over time and due to the way the upper plastic tab which houses the charging circuitry and battery contacts is placed it can separate from the battery pack. when this happens the sensor is no longer able to read the values from the actual pack and starts giving spuriously high values probably as a failsafe measure.
There is a simple fix for this. Take some celltape and wrap the battery from top to bottom. this forces the top plastic tab back down against the battery pack and enables it to get consistent readings again. I first suspected this when I bought some refurbished batteryes and found that they had a slightly different silver covering that included a flap that went over the top part of the battery . Subsequeitly I opened Up a battry that had failed and noted that there is a thermal pad between the lower part of the plastic tab and the battery pack on the inside.
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There is an issue with this... Even if a temperature sensor is detached from the battery the readings it would have would still be within the acceptable range as if a battery is cold/unused it doesnt freak out. Pressing the pcb against the battery works for some but not all and i believe it depends on the version of the battery. The 2014 batteries and the 2015/2016 ones arent the same. Paper trick works for the earlier ones but the later ones require a solder
LG g3 F400l
I have LG g3 F400l I use this from an year ago last time when I use my mobile it won't charge the charging was struck at 1% then I remove battery and reinsert into mobile but the mobile show invalid battery sign then I remove battery again and reinsert it then mobile show something in Korean language I translate it and it show charging paused due to high temperature if anyone have solutions please help me ?
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I just couldn't stand to do that.
Still, the official purpose is one too long pin (marked with red on last photo), which deforming the back housing cover.
Has got to cut it down a bit.
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Thanks for it.
<pedantic>
blank strings but no blank bar codes and qr code.
</pedantic>
Just to make sure; so you dont separate the white back cover between the from the bronze and the cover but between the bronze rim and the glass front?
OP, did you cut the long pin? Also, was it easy to pull off the screen from the back cover? I may try this because there seems to be a slight bump coming up from my T700.
It looks to me like the usb port is a separate module which is good news. In the past i've had to repair these by desoldering and replacing, which is not any easy task due to their minute size.
Hi, I've got some questions. Not precisely about the deformation, though. Hope its not an issue.
I've got this issue. Battery draining even while the tablet has been turned off (completely off - turned off via the software button that comes up via long press on the power button).
Amongst other things, I suspect that the power drain has something to do with the antenna's on the back cover. Anyone know what those antennas are for? They say stuff like LTE and WiFi however, I've taken off the back cover and its still connecting to mobile data and wifi etc. So these may be extra antenna's etc.
bluetooth and gps need antennas as well though some can share.
John.
ozaq1 said:
Hi, I've got some questions. Not precisely about the deformation, though. Hope its not an issue.
I've got this issue. Battery draining even while the tablet has been turned off (completely off - turned off via the software button that comes up via long press on the power button).
Amongst other things, I suspect that the power drain has something to do with the antenna's on the back cover. Anyone know what those antennas are for? They say stuff like LTE and WiFi however, I've taken off the back cover and its still connecting to mobile data and wifi etc. So these may be extra antenna's etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi the little white cord above the camera is missing from my tab. What is it?
Hi my tablet is crashing every time the battery is lower than 80% (it turns off immediately) end keeps crashing every time i restart it and begin using it after 2 or 3 seconds and the battery drains every restart .Is it surely a battery problem or it could be caused by anything else?
lomlom10 said:
Hi my tablet is crashing every time the battery is lower than 80% (it turns off immediately) end keeps crashing every time i restart it and begin using it after 2 or 3 seconds and the battery drains every restart .Is it surely a battery problem or it could be caused by anything else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably you have a cracked battery connector, common problem of Samsung tablet. Re solder will fix this problem, you can verify by removing the back cover, apply directly pressure on the black battery connector and turn your tablet on; if it works, problem solved, just find someone or a repair shop to help you to re solder the battery connector.
Don't forget to fix the white battery connector too, it's also the source of problem
http://forum.xda-developers.com/gal...-flicker-screen-freezes-random-t3165471/page2
Beut said:
Probably you have a cracked battery connector, common problem of Samsung tablet. Re solder will fix this problem, you can verify by removing the back cover, apply directly pressure on the black battery connector and turn your tablet on; if it works, problem solved, just find someone or a repair shop to help you to re solder the battery connector.
Don't forget to fix the white battery connector too, it's also the source of problem
http://forum.xda-developers.com/gal...-flicker-screen-freezes-random-t3165471/page2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you for the reply I unplugged the black connector and re-plugged it and the problem seems to be fixed but i didn't find the white battery connector
lomlom10 said:
thank you for the reply I unplugged the black connector and re-plugged it and the problem seems to be fixed but i didn't find the white battery connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unplugged and re-plugged battery helps to solve problem, then you may need to do this little fix of the white battery connector. I had one battery which didn't take charge, after this simple fix , it works normal again.
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You need a thin knife and magnified glass to do this fix, push the opening as close as possible.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PU0OoZSbma8&feature=youtu.be
Hello,
I have several Tab Pro's that are all having the same problem. I have charged the devices to 100% then when it sits for a few days it will not turn back on. I have plugged it back in and it show 0%.
This is what i have done to try and find the issue...
1. I have reset all cables
2.Tried different batteries (USED)
3.Re-Rom with ODIN and Factory reset
4.Checked the pins on battery terminal for bad solder contacts
5.Waiting on new batteries
Now the interesting part. I charged 2 devices to 100% then disconnected the battery from the Logic board so I could check to see if the battery is discharging on its own. After 3 days I reconnected the battery terminal and tried to turn it back on. They will not power on, then I plug in the charger and battery icon shows up with 100% and then I'm able to turn it back on. Any ideas what the issues with these are I have about 8 of them all doing the same thing?
Thank you,
The battery doesn't discharge on its own so fast like your description. I have a Tab Pro 12.2 , which is off almost 3 months, when turns on it still keep the charge at 99%
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The problem is from the cracked battery connector, it will cause intermittent connection. Trust me, remove the back cover, use your hand to press directly on the battery connector while turning it on, it might work depending how bad the crack is. All you need is resolder the battery connector.
Beut said:
The battery doesn't discharge on its own so fast like your description. I have a Tab Pro 12.2 , which is off almost 3 months, when turns on it still keep the charge at 99%
The problem is from the cracked battery connector, it will cause intermittent connection. Trust me, remove the back cover, use your hand to press directly on the battery connector while turning it on, it might work depending how bad the crack is. All you need is resolder the battery connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have tried to resolder a few of them and they still do not turn on or they discharge the battery. I have a few that I charged the batteries up to 100% and disconnected them from the battery terminal on the logic board over the weekend. They all still do not turn on, then I connect the charger and the battery icon shows up with 100% then I can turn it on. I have tried what you said and pushed on the terminals on all of the ones I have and not one will turn on. I'm starting to think there is a issue with the power management chip on the board. Has anyone tried to replace any of these?
I have had issues with SM-t/p900 12.2 pros that had the issues you are talking about, not charging, flickering screen, and the terminals needed to be resoldered. I could actually push the pins up and down. The SM-t520 pins are solid and do not move.
Finally understanded the problem Thanks to "Dusan Milanovic" @DusanMilanovicLgTec
In my case it was:
- 50% Battery problem
- 50% Qualcomm Power IC Chip
But in most cases it solves by just letting the Phone charge normally for a few hours.
How I solved it:
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAKE TO YOUR PHONE, HOUSE, GRANDMA ETC.
REQUIREMENTS:
- Alluminium foil (biscuit metallic paper) not plastic
- Hairdryer (It seems stupid ahah)
- Chronometer
- Attention!
- A bit of patience
BATTERY PHASE
- Open the Phone and remove Fingerprint board.
- Remove the Battery.
- Put the battery on an universal charger.(VERY DANGEROUS)
(do this only if you are sure that the battery is discharged and don't want to charge)
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Let it charge for an hour more and less.
POWER IC CHIP. PHASE
- Remove the metallic protection between the camera and the battery slot.
- Look for a black chip surrounded by little grey chips. (POWER IC)
- Protect everything in the motherboard with the Alluminium foil except for the black chip.
BE VERY CAREFUL, PROTECT EVERY SINGLE GREY CHIP NEAR THE POWER IC CHIP.
-Prepare the Chronometer 1 minute.
(NOT MORE THAN 2 MINUTES OR YOU MAY SERIOUSLY DAMAGE THE MOTHERBOARD)
-Use the Hairdryer to heat the POWER IC CHIP
(DO NOT USE HEATGUN). The chip needs to reach around 100°C
-After you heated the chip let it cool down for a minute or two
-Remount the metallic protection.
LAST PHASE
- Put the battery on the phone
- close everything
- Try to boot it
ALL DONE?:highfive:
POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
- always shows 100% battery. → buy a new battery( this one is Dead)
-Doesn't boot.↓
→Are you sure your battery is charged?
No: Try charging it externally (VERY DANGEROUS)
Yes: then try to heat again the POWER IC CHIP (2 MINUTES MAX)
→Still nothing?
- Buy a new Battery, this is the best choice.
- If even after you use the new Battery the Phone doesn't boot , just heat again that pain in the ass of a ic CHIP.
My theory is the overheat is caused by cheap USB type-c cables and/or high voltage chargers. Using original or high quality one avoid to overheat when it charges and, consequently, decreases risk of geting the problem in the solders.
Dammer Martins said:
My theory is the overheat is caused by cheap USB type-c cables and/or high voltage chargers. Using original or high quality one avoid to overheat when it charges and, consequently, decreases risk of geting the problem in the solders.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I agree, using high quality cables is the best thing to do, to prevent this problem
MounirHero
:good::good::good::good:Tnx MounirHero
Hello everyone. My question is related to the pin connector and battery life:
3 months ago, i though it was moment for battery replacement of my S 8.4, but in the process i broke the 6-pin connector placed in the board. So, I tried to deal with it and charge the new battery once, with the connector slightly detached and badly soldered. It went bad since wasn't charging normally, i screwed badly the connector so had to replace it.
I ordered the new connector with an official tech support. Connector took few weeks to arrive (i live in Chile). I did the microsoldering with a lot of troubles, and after watching tutorials and buying soldering stuff, practicing and studying the possible troubles i could face, i finally did it (see the pic). Anyway I'm skeptic about what i just did XD (btw i used soldering paste for smd, really cool stuff)
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Now it's charging, after 3 hrs it went from 20 - 90%. My questions are 2:
1) considering that many experts point out that lithium battery's first charge is extremely important for technical reasons (SEI forming on first charge cycle; non full charge leads to fading over time), should i replace my battery soon, if i stored at 20% for 2 months?
2) how do i know if i soldered correctly the connector, should i consider the time it takes (normally charging cycle was around 3 hrs 30 from 0 - 100%)?
Thanks!
need help with soldering
Hi buddy , have a similar needs as yours, except in my case i did not break the connector , it broke by itself after a few months , guess a bad solder at the samsung factory itself .
So now coming to the point , i ordered a new connector and was thinking to solder it myself as service center was charging a hefty price for a small repair . Could you please guide me as to what all is required to do it properly .
li-ion battery`s dont need a forming charge on first charge.
Dont run the battery too low as the battery can fail, I don't go below 20% (I use a charge level alarm)
I don't charge above 80%(I use a charge alarm) , I have charged to 100% only 7 time in 28months(only after flashing or upgrades to calibrate the battery gauge)
i have used my T800 every day and no problems so far.
John.
Im also having the same problem...
The connector pin just came off from the motherboard...In my case..im so afraid to do the microsoldering,however i tried “reflow solder” heat up the connecter while sticking it on the motherboard for few seconds...then let it cool...yes it was succesfully connected..but its not strong enough...it just came off again when i grabbed the tablet to put on its backcover...The main reason why im scared to do the microsoldering is what if i accidently damaged other components in the motherboard...is there any other way to solve this issue other replacing the motherboard...