Like any hardware, even a printer has issues and bugs while interacting with another system. One of those issues is the fact that it reveals”offline” even if it’s properly connected. First, make it connected with the electric outlets and you’re network-connected. https://worldzine.org/printer/canon-printer-says-offline/
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I've been putting off posting this thread, as I really haven't bothered to sit down and take the time, but now that I do here at work, well... my thread.
Now, this thread, i'm putting towards the use of finding out the different Bluetooth chipsets out there and identifying their pitfalls and peaks. Now I have experience with only 3 chipsets so far, so I'm going to post the information on those and how well they performed doing different tasks, and what device I found them in.
===PLEASE NOTE: When you post your experience, please be sure to have your CHIPSET, DEVICE, and PROTOCOLS you used, just follow the format I'm using below, if you're missing the protocol, just describe what you were doing and I can identify it for you later, the chipset is a MUST, and the device is just a helper so we know what products to watch out for when shopping.===
Chipset: Cambridge Silicon Radio (CSR)
Found in: Macsense BT-100 USB2.0-BT1.2 Adapter, Motorola HT820 Stereo Headset, Bluetake BT009x USB2.0-BT1.2 Adapter
Protocols used with chipset and how well they performed:
A2DP (Stereo Audio): (HT820+BT-100/BT009x) - It has this annoying problem with extremely sensitive high-end clipping, where it just turns to static, not just myself but others had this same issue, not sure if it's the same chipset he had, but with all my CSR ones, it's the same story, and with 2 CSR chips, it's FAR worse.
Headset (Used for phonecalls, mono+mic): (HT820+BT009x/BT-100) - Sounds just fine, nothing really wrong here, the delay isn't too much, almost instant, but god forbid you go outside the range of the device, static.
File transfer: (BT-100<->K750i) Worked fine, pushed a nice 45kb/sec transfer rate through to the phone, and back, no problems here at all.
Pros: Works great if data is all you want.
Cons: Use it for audio and you suffer.
Chipset: Integrated Systems Solutions Corp (ISSC)
Found in: ? (USB2.0-BT1.2 Adapter)
Protocols used with chipset and how well they performed:
A2DP: (HT820+ISSC BT Adpt) - It got rid of a lot of the high-end clipping on the sound, but there's still clipping on the headset, so go figure, got 20m without LOS (cubicle dividers, computers, printers all in the way).
Headset: (ISSC<->HT820) - Works well, doesn't get static at the end of the range, just cuts out and stays out, adapter with the BlueSoleil stack holds the call open till you get back in range and reconnect to it
File transfer: (ISSC<->K750i) - Worked fine, pushes the same 45kb/sec, but gets better distance on the transfers, got 20m without LOS (cubicle dividers, computers, printers all in the way)
Pros: Gets great distance, works great for audio and data
Cons: Headset audio suffers a bit, people can't seem hear you well, still unsure why
Chipset: Philips Semiconductors
Found in: Sony Ericcson K750i World/Smartphone (BT1.2)
Protocols used:
File transfer: (K750i<->K750i) - Works great, has even better distance
Headset: (K750i<->HT820) - Works, but get obstructions like humans and walls in the way, and you're screwed.
Pros: Good distance, with data
Cons: Piss poor distance, with audio, very easy to drop calls without LOS
PROPOSE: The creation of a connection protocol that will force/enable standardization of all mobile devices... One in which that can work with current technology connection no matter the device. Simple embedding the wires into a custom case that will act as the ALL-IN-ONE adapter.
LIKE the 19-connector apple protocol or the PDMI (Portable Digital Media Interface)
While, this case will add to the bulk to older/newer devices I would rather gain the ability to use multitudes of accessories without the need of multiple adapter connection.
ADDITIONALLY: I truly believe we should think about apples supporters and help them as well by developing this connector with them in mind... This will force the market to stop deciding to design apple, android or windows and focus on making cool accessories and letting the customers figure it out.
I hope this made sense... I did call three case companies and two wire companies and they stated they liked the Idea but do not think there is a large enough audience to ensure success...
THIS IS AS FAR AS I CAN GO... I CAN COME UP WITH THE MONEY TO START THE PROCESS BUT LACK THE KNOW-HOW AND SUPPORTERS TO MAKE THIS A SUCCESS....
The Standardized Developers Connector needs to not required the need for hardware or drivers. Developing for the future while enabling the past to connect to the same accessories....
HOPE This made sense any questions or comments let me know...
Image a case with the standardized connection but you can add additional specific to your need to alleviate the need for another adapter... EXAMPLE.... The standardize connector on the bottom a head phone jack at the top and hdmi and multiple standard usb to enable a pc experience at any hdmi capable screen and mouse and key board.
Then when I am home I can plug my standardized connection into my media setup and use my bluetooth keyboard mouse and game pad and utilize my big screen as a media center...
Then go the my favorite bar to open spin night plug my standardized connection into their Standardized developed spin tables and battle the other contestants...
Then when I want to upgrade I plug my standardized connected device into a cluster of old devices that I will pass forward to kids of friends and families but until then they will create a virtual power house of processing for my new interactive input device...
I own a SEAT IBIZA car with Android Auto and Mirror-Link features.
I'm curious to know if there is a possible way to read some information Via CANBUS protocol like RPM, Speed, Oil temperature etc.
through the original USB plug and not from the OBD II.
Thanks in advance!
Chen_Gold said:
I own a SEAT IBIZA car with Android Auto and Mirror-Link features.
I'm curious to know if there is a possible way to read some information Via CANBUS protocol like RPM, Speed, Oil temperature etc.
through the original USB plug and not from the OBD II.
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course there is! Not everyone uses those damned rigged* Autel DS708 scantools anymore (even though they have been the gold standard for years, the UI has always been such a......tool.) VAG makes a scanner (not a code reader) that has a USB adapter for some foreign and domestic higher end vehicles.
Just do a Web search for a diagnostic auto scanner with USB adapters, or for the cars with USB diagnostic ports (sometimes they hide diag ports under the hood, too) - I threw it into a Google search and the Seat Ibiza was just the first car I came up with, followed by several scanners with matching port adapters.
Not to sound like a heifer, but finding a tech who is savvy enough to be able to tell the difference between a 16-pin OBD2 port and a USB port is a boon in and of itself. You'd do well to find a well rounded tech with a some history in electronics (wave forms are a marvelous thing when applied to the dynamics of an internal combustion engine and it's components!)
Automotive technicians are a rapidly changing group of people, with those who can't make the cut quickly fall by the wayside, so just be politely persistent about your needs, and [eventually] you may run across someone who specializes [which can be costly] or someone who has enough general knowledge to put a scanner to good use.
Just don't pay a ton of money for the "service" of plugging a scanner in and reading codes or resetting your sun roof - dealerships escalate the costs tremendously, but with intelligent scanners running anywhere from several hundred to several thousand dollars, I'd look for a smaller shop or individual. For what some of the dealers/specialists charge to plug in a scanner you could buy your own scantool!!
All that said, check with your favorite garage and inquire about the make/model of their scanner. The techs who stay up to date may charge a bit more for diagnostics, but it makes the repair a LOT less expensive when they can pinpoint the issues right away, and most are quick to offer up their services to show off that shiny new gadget that can read the cars' minds.
Depending on where you are, I may be able to offer a connect through a tech in your area. They may or may not have a scanner or a friend who does, but I don't mind asking if you'd like.
Good luck!
CC~
EDITED TO ADD: *The Autel Maxidas DS708 is, and has been planned as a terminal application, neatly coinciding with the termination date of Wince 6.x. Want more info? Drop me a line.
I'm sorry that this post is long, but if I don't explain everything, the issues won't make sense.
1. I got a firestick in January of 2020. I'm using it on a older TV: Sanyo -- 10 to 15 years old -- does have 2 HDMI ports.
2. I have fiber optic cable, and the connection speed always says "Very Good."
3. For roughly six months, the firestick worked amazingly well.
4. Recently, it is usually slow. Takes too much time to bring up the show I want. It sometimes cuts away from what I'm watching completely, and returns to the homepage. I've tried 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz. Neither seems better than the other.
5. I've tried restarting and resetting the firestick. I've also uninstalled whatever applications allow for that. On others, I've used "Force Stop," and I've cleaned out the data and cache for all apps. I've turned off all things like "Data Monitoring," as suggested on other sites.
6. I've tried the ethernet adapter and cable, connecting the firestick directly to the router. This doesn't seem to help at all.
7. The firestick is close to the router, anyway -- about 8 feet.
8. The router, rented from the cable company, is older, but I don't know how old. It's a Calix Gigacenter, 844E-1, model 100-04015.
Additional Info: I live in a small apartment. My nearest neighbor, whose apartment is a bit larger, has a Roku, and a different ISP. Her cable is the "regular," meaning not fiber optic. She has frequent disconnection problems, and we both have very poor cell phone signals. Other neighbors have similar problems regarding their cell phones -- but I've been told that cell phone signals (or lack of same) don't have any connection with cables. Even so, it seems that this apartment complex exists in a twilight zone of some kind.
This apartment complex is within the city limits of a small town (population @ 8000)
More information that seems especially ODD to me: Other than the firestick under discussion, I have one more firestick (in the bedroom), a fairly new laptop, and a state of the art desktop -- all on the same network. The ODD part is, the firestick under discussion does better when all the other devices are running. (Wait. The firestick in the bedroom runs for only a short time at night; then it's off. So the living room firestick runs better when the desktop and the laptop are both running.
This seems the opposite of what it should be, but there you have it. Any ideas and help will be much appreciated. Thank you
Can malware be installed in a vehicle (2014 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid) via USB port from iPhone?
I ask this question because I am a rideshare driver and I have let passengers connect iphones via USB to play their music. An unsettling thought came to me regarding someone potentially installing malware from their iphone in my cars system. Can this be done? I am not asking for any probability or likeliness of this happening. I just want to know if it can be done. If malware is installed via USB, can it then gain access beyond the media controls, can it then track me and/or maliciously attack any operating aspect of my car? I am concerned that this has been done, how can I solve the problem? Can the dealership/service center scan my vehicle to see if it has malware? Can they "factory reset" the cars computer and process the most current updates? Is it expensive to do so?
I suppose the best preventive measures is to always have the cars bluetooth off. Only provide AUX to listen to music. Only provide 12V usb plugin charger. However, I only put this thought into the bluetooth aspect of it. The other day I slipped up and was cought off guard. Passenger asked me if I had an iphone cable. I assumed they were just going to charge their phone. But then they asked me if they could play their music and not giving any thought I just unplugged from 12V and plugged it into cars USB port. It wasnt till after I dropped off passenger, that I realised I compromised my security measure of not allowing anyone to connect their device to my car (aside from AUX).
I think we take these sorts of things for granted just by letting strangers we dont know connect devices to our cars. This can compromise our safety, privacy and cars mechanical function if someone wants to be malicious.
Side Note: I do not use the cars BlueLink and never have. With that being said, can BlueLink then be compromised by the malware or be accessed even though I have never used it?