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I am attempting to house an i-mate PDA2 in a custom enclosure (for a product that we make). I want to modify the 22 pin connector on the sync/power cable but I cannot find a pinout.
I need a picture or diagram of the 3, or is it 4, rows of pins with pin numbers, pin function and connector wiring (jumpers, etc.)
Anyone know where I might find this?
Before you get crushed by the "rtfm" type posts, I humbly direct your attention to the "connectors" link on the front page of this site, which will lead you to: http://wiki.xda-developers.com/wiki/Connectors. It's an extremely useful page!
OK, I told you so now you tell me; what're you guys making?!
I did check out the "connectors" page and it is helpful.
However, what I am looking for are details of the inside of the cable connector. I took one of these connectors apart and it's not the easiest thing in the world to figure out which pin goes to which on the PDA side or what the number system is.
So, it would be very helpful to know if someone has already gone through the unravelling.
In a nutshell, our company has developed a technology that uses ultrasonics to measure load in bolts both during and after tightening. The PDA is the platform for the controller of the tightening and inspection tools.
Sorry, I assumed that you'd not looked at the connectors page because I used it to figure out (I think) what it is you're after when I was trying to make my own sync/charge/gps connector.
If this is something that you can't resolve with a multimeter, then I guess you must be looking at an interesting connector! I'd suggest posting a couple of pics of the connector with it's top off lined up with the phone's socket. That'll make it easier to figure out what's what!
The load detector sounds cool, I'd love to see a screenshot if you've got one.
Yes, it can be resolved with a multimeter - I was just looking for the lazy way out!
I have attached a photo of the prototype unit - not the most professional representation, but a decent one nonetheless.
That looks cool! I love it when people *really* use these things.
If you open the connector up and see 2 (staggered) rows of tiny, really hard to solder :lol: pins, pin 1 (left side of the phone connector if you hold it bottom towards you, screen up) is the bottom left pin.
_| | | | | | | | | | |
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^ bottom left is pin 1. Hope this helps, sorry I had to bath the baby earlier and was typing whilst holding a somewhat sticky little girl
Thank you!
Subject: PDA2 sync/power cable connector pinout
On this thread, I was thinking of using the desktop cradle as the base for a mobile mount.
But the pin-outs for the PDA2k are not easily found.
The connector link now appears to be at:
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Connectors
This page seems only to refer to the Wallaby and the Himalaya.
Is there a specific page for the PDA2k or does anyone know if the pin-outs of the 22 pin connector are the same for the Wallaby/Himalaya as they are for the PDA2k?
-I found elsewhere that Pin 19 was different.
Are there any other differences?
Also somewhere amongst the threads there was a mention of the pin-outs of the 2.5mm audio out /mic in was different or was it the switch on the hands free headset?
I have trawlled the site and it has eluded me so far for a consiolidated posting on the connectors for the PDA2k.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Perhaps I am just deluding myself
Thanks in advance
If you lost your marbles, would you know where to find them?
harrier mounts and connectors
I wouldn't use the desk cradle to make a car mount. IMO the car mount from Clicon (www.clicon.com.au) is better mechanically than the desk cradle, and already suited to vehicle mounting
There are a number of variants of their kits, but not many that suit my pda2k-evdo. The ones that do suit are:
- plain cradle with no connectors, but leaving the pda2k connector exposed and accessible
- plain cradle with "passthrough" connector - so connect your own charger etc to the bottom of it. Note that this passthrough doesn't support the two lugs that some pda2k plugs have (eg the charging dongle that came with the pda2k-evdo)
- cradle with lighter-socket charger. The charger part is actually removeable; they've just screwed the car charger to the cradle.
The lighter-socket charger mentioned above has a small board inside the connector with Tx and Rx holes labelled. It looks like it was designed for making a serial+charge adaptor.
I have a separate RS232+charger adaptor cable ("suits XDA IIs") which looks like it's charging, but really just keeps the screen on and runs down the battery quicker. It turns out it only has one V+ and one Gnd pin connected, as opposed to 3 of each listed on the Connector page on this site. Makes me wonder whether the 3 pins for V+ actually all have the same function. Time to mod the connector...
Gregnash,
I agree with your summary,
and I have looked at the available in car cradles/holders.
I have already ported a XDA1 cradel with audio/mic,USB and power to see if the connections can be done successfully.
All worked except for the mic as I need to find a 4 polo 2.5mm panel socket so that it switches on hook.(this I assume is pin 19)
You are right, by itself the Harrier cradle does not securely hold the pda in place as there is lateral movement.
What I am trying to achieve is a "all in one" in car cradle/holder.
I have sucessfully mounted a NOKIA passive anennae connector to a stand alone generic brand pda holder.
This as you said allows the connector to be exposed for charging.
I have used this method with a 9db external (old analogue antenna-funny that, you can use them for CDMA) antenna or a 9 db through glass antenna.
Currently the system is clumsy as also I run a bluetooth external GPS and route the audio from the 2.5mm socket to the cassette player adapter.
-(no audio IN in this car radio)
What I was hoping to do was to incorporate the Nokia Passive antenna coupler at the rear of the Harrier cradle which would put slight pressure in the forwards direction to both make an antenna connection and more secure and stop the Harrier from moving.
(Another flash idea is to strip the inductance plate from the coupler and mount a antenna cable socket on the coupler face so that it aligns with the antenna out from the Harrier)
With the audio out /mic in and charge through this connector , I am hoping to eliminate all of the wiring as I can conceal the wiring back inside the dash.
The only other thing is the on hook switch for receiving calls.
As you can probably guess I probably have too much spare time.
Perhaps Bluetooth In car kit will by-pass the need for the physical connectors as it is software driven.
But I have heard of so many bad reports of BT connecting to the phone that it appears to be pot luck if I find one that works.
What about this arrangement:
1. Harrier cradle -with antenna coupler if secure,
2. bluetooth in car (cigarette lighter style) hands free-Blue Ant etc,
3. audio out from cradle to radio ( for GPS instructions and playing mp3 from Harrier) freq transmitter(powered externally).
4. bluetooth GPS external antenna
mmmm..... maybe a bit of an ask but it does allow a "drop on cradle ,push forwards to engage antenna and forget" action.
Maybe I am off with the fairies, what do you think?
Any comments would be appreciated.
For antenna supplies you can try this site http://www.wpsantennas.com/ basically I think it would boost reception back to 3 watts. 3 watts is the same wattage as the old car mounted mobile phones. Mobile phones operate on 0.5 watts. No wonder our reception sucks in so many places.
Hook the antenna into a car cradle and some type of handsfreee switch for the radio, and you have a very powerful, very mobile 3 watt mobile phone with great reception.. if you got carried away you could even connect your car to the ppc and moniter engine, fuel, etc. Plus a GPS.. and oh the possibilties are endless.
Johnno's ambitious car kit
Yeah, I think you do have too much time on your hands
Sounds like a plan, though, and I'd like to know if you make it all work. The antenna couplers I've seen take a bit too much force for a "drop in, push back" arrangement, but one designed for a different phone may do the trick if it fits.
btw, my interest in serial is for wired GPS and to talk to the engine management computer (not at the same time, or one will have to be bluetooth). Even better if they can be powered from the same cable.
dougnet
Thanks for the link.
I actually had thought of this proposal.
I actually contacted tht crowd (amongst others) about two months ago as I was thinking the same as you.
They answered that they are not allowed to export GSM or CDMA amplifiers to Australia.
I think it might be that new "Free Trade Agreement and respecting our telcos" we now have with the US where things are not really "FREE".
Probabably if I asked 12 months ago it might not have been a problem.
Nice products.
Trouble with Antenna couplers , is that you lose at least 1.2db + in the cconnection.
You you really need a grunty antenna or output.
".. if you got carried away you could even connect your car to the ppc and moniter engine, fuel, etc. Plus a GPS.. and oh the possibilties are endless. "
Now I have an automatic car so rev monitoring would certainly be overkill.
I get your drift, though thanks for the input.
gregnash
I will have to see how much force is needed to engage the pda.
Don't forget that at least the same force will be needed to disengage it as well.
Mmmm...good point, this means seeing whether a panel mount socket is available in this cofig.
Wouldn't have a clue who might sell panel mount sockets suitable for the Harrier/Blue Angel?
I am not sure how a cable termination would cope with the forces needed.
The fixing method would have to be substantial.
Serial connections to the car comp?
You would probably need to hack the code to get access to it I suppose?
But if you could tap into the on-board engine management computer, then you could change the air to fuel ratio at the injectors and lots of other cool things like disengage my engine cut-out at 190k/per hour and have some real fun!!!
Not much fun at 190K/h and the engine stops-no brakes, no steer!!!
Must be for the rev heads-NOT ME!
I will investigate the force on the antenna connector to see if this is feasable to mount.
I will let you know what I find.
Hi all.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Well life is full of compromises!
So long as you do not require audio output and you are happy with the Harriers speakerphone volume, I think I have a home solution for the uninitiated.
1. I have a "generic brand mobile phone holder-one of those adjustable in width ones- full width just held the Harrier nice and snug.
2. To this I mounted at the bottom (after removing the locking latches)
a USB car charger cable -with no modifications.
-Actually I pop rivetted the backing shell to the holder.
3. I then mounted a Nokia a passive antenna coupler and sculptured the holder-so that it fits at the right height and to the left of the Harrier.(where the antennae is on the Harrier)
4. I then mounted the holder onto the dash of the car (my choice as I put it though a removable panel where a digital clock is fitted in an other model, and passed the antenna cable,and the charger cable to a cavity in the dash.
5. Here I supplied a cigarette socket with 12 volts and connected the charger cable.
What I ended up with was a car mount that was a "drop in" style that
was easy to build without any fiddly soldering of connector pins.
I actually did make it with USB and audio out but these were surperflous as at the moment I do not have an audio in for my car radio or an amp to drive it.
But I just wanted to see if it could be done.
This is why in the picture you can see electrical tape around the cabling.
(This is because I had USB,Audio out and Car charger cable.)
Once you have this type of holder, it is not hard to get a new holder and move only the antenna coupler across ( I would think that the new connector would be different from the Harrier)when you upgrade to a new PDA.
In summary:
Compromise 1.
1.2db loss at antenna coupler-using 9db external antennae so I can live with that.- but no nasty "push to connect" hassles.
Compromise 2.
Audio out does work but the level is so low that it needs good amplification , this I will not follow up until I get a car radio with audio in.
Rely on Speakerphone fore the time being.
I hope this is of help to those thinking of this kind of project.
I hope the picture is reasonably self explanitary.
If you have any questions just let me know.
I was thinking about this yesterday and I don't see why this wouldn't be possible.
According to Motorola all the Laptop Dock is, is a screen keyboard and mouse. In the interest of saving money, why not just take an old netbook, take out the internals and convert it? I'm not exactly skilled with electronics but I don't see why this wouldn't be possible, you would need to either keep the DC board (if it is separate) or remove it from the motherboard itself. Then it would just be a matter of converting the LCD to HDMI Input and linking the USB's to the Atrix. At which point you just plug your phone via 2 cables and voila, it would work. Granted you would clearly need to change the connectors for the Keyboard and trackpad, but strip down an HDMI Multimedia dock and I could easily see this being done and saving money. (easily being subjective)
That might be challenging. Adding an HDMI input to a screen that wasn't designed with it is very difficult and potentially expensive. Most netbooks are using analog inputs and HDMI is digital.
The main way to go from analog to digital is a video capture device that encodes the analog signal. Those tend to have a fair bit of latency and are neither small nor cheap.
If you started with a display that supported HDMI input you could build a home brew laptop from that. Power might be an issue at that point though.
From what I have seen the Webtop is merely a feature of pluggin in the HDMI cable and selecting the appliction. The HDMI dock is not going to add much value other than be a convient and nice form factor.
I have considered doing somthing like you are suggesting but I am struggling with the HDMI issue. Currently the only option seems to be taking a display that supports HDMI and converting it into a homebrew laptop. At this time I can't find a digital display that is smaller that 20". An 11-15 inch screen that supports HDMI doesn't seem to exist.
I have thought of the same thing. The sticking point in my mind is the HDMI connection to the screen. The keyboard and mouse are likely just regular usb devices.
The next problem is that my Frankenstein device may cost $100+ to create and will likely look like crap.
The next problem is that the webtop appears to be locked down unless you have a tethering plan.
My conclusion from all of this is that it is cheaper and cleaner to buy a netbook and either add tethering only when necessary or root the device and add barnacle wifi.
If I'm not mistaken though, a netbook with an 11.6 inch display probably isn't only analog. I have a Toshiba T215-S1150 as well as an Asus EeePC that I'm looking into doing such with.
Granted off the top of my head a Pixel Qi display may accomplish such but I'm not sure if that is a Digital Input display.
I could be wrong though but I thought that in the end it's an LCD panel, the inputs are sodered on as to how you want to allow a Video Input.
You say the laptop dock is locked down without a tethering plan, one thing I did notice is you can buy the HDMI dock and it doesn't require it. You can use it with webtop also, I don't see how AT&T can determine if you are using Webtop on a Laptop or on a Desktop. Especially since from what I can tell, plugging in an HDMI cable will bring up the option for webtop also.
I don't see how the Frankenstein device is going to look bad especially since you will be removing most of the internals, you just remove a VGA port or plug an HDMI cable into the HDMI out. Then you use the USB as it was intended to connect the device to the rest of the internals. I know I'm not an electrical engineer or anything, but I know enough of the basics to see how this could work.
krkeegan said:
I have thought of the same thing. The sticking point in my mind is the HDMI connection to the screen. The keyboard and mouse are likely just regular usb devices.
The next problem is that my Frankenstein device may cost $100+ to create and will likely look like crap.
The next problem is that the webtop appears to be locked down unless you have a tethering plan.
My conclusion from all of this is that it is cheaper and cleaner to buy a netbook and either add tethering only when necessary or root the device and add barnacle wifi.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In regards to the tethering plan:
As I understand it the only requirement to have the tethering plan is to get the subsidy on the Laptop dock.
If you purchase the laptop dock outside a subsidized bundle then there is no need for a tethering plan.
As naturefreak85 said. The dock will allow webtop to launch as will a basic HDMI cable.
There is a video on you tube of a guy doing a demo where he plugs in an HDMI cable and webtop gives an option to launch.
AT&T is merely foisting the tethering plan on people who get the laptop dock on the $500 bundle. If you want to drop $500 on teh dock seperatly there is no requirement.
Mod's and Homebrew can look good. Thats up to the artist. For me its not about circumventing the $500 dock. Its about building somthing cool.
In regards to the HDMI/netbook thing... I did a little more thinking on how that works.
The motherboard has an LCD controller on it which sits between the video adapter on the MB and the LCD.
It goes:
Motherboard->Video Adapter (on silicon)->LCD controller->ribbon cable->LCD
There is also a LCD backlight and inverter involved.
If you just try to plug into the ribbon cable you loose the controller (and backlight inverter)
The contorller is the missing link and they are difficult to purchase on their own in any cost effective manner.
That is where canabalizing a monitor would workas it has a controller with it. The netbook/laptop has thecontroller embeded or loosely couple with the MB.
The hunt goes on.
I'll have to do some research on the schematics of my 1000HA and see the connection the display has to the motherboard. I figure it could be done in terms of converting the display to HDMI, just a matter of figuring out the right pinout and still supplying the right amount of power.
I would love to bring this to fruition because I've never done too much modding, but always been interested in such. I envision the ability to lift up the keyboard and plug the phone in, then lay the keyboard right back down. To the average viewer, it's a laptop but you are keeping your phone nicely protected/connected in it especially nice on an airplane. Much harder to leave a laptop behind vs a phone.
emoose said:
As I understand it the only requirement to have the tethering plan is to get the subsidy on the Laptop dock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We will likely found out the answer to this on Monday, but the ATT page seems to say that tethering is required for use of firefox in the webtop mode.
The Atrix page on ATT's website states:
Code:
Full Firefox® browser use with AT&T Mobile Broadband requires DataPro 4GB Personal plan.
** Although, on second thought, that may be an "ATT Requirement" but it doesn't necessarily mean that the browser won't work.
Right as I read that it means, in order to use Webtop on 3G you need the tethering plan, but at the same time, I'm not sure how they can differentiate between desktop firefox if you change the ID tag of it. Plus they don't restrict it if used on WiFi.
krkeegan said:
We will likely found out the answer to this on Monday, but the ATT page seems to say that tethering is required for use of firefox in the webtop mode.
The Atrix page on ATT's website states:
Code:
Full Firefox® browser use with AT&T Mobile Broadband requires DataPro 4GB Personal plan.
** Although, on second thought, that may be an "ATT Requirement" but it doesn't necessarily mean that the browser won't work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
naturefreak85 said:
I'll have to do some research on the schematics of my 1000HA and see the connection the display has to the motherboard. I figure it could be done in terms of converting the display to HDMI, just a matter of figuring out the right pinout and still supplying the right amount of power.
I would love to bring this to fruition because I've never done too much modding, but always been interested in such. I envision the ability to lift up the keyboard and plug the phone in, then lay the keyboard right back down. To the average viewer, it's a laptop but you are keeping your phone nicely protected/connected in it especially nice on an airplane. Much harder to leave a laptop behind vs a phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The issue is laptop displays typically use LVDS, which is very incompatible with DVI/HDMI signals. You basically need a DVI>LVDS board, which will run into the hundreds of dollars to buy like that.
Unless your laptop uses DisplayPort for it's display connection (unlikely on a netbook,) in which case it would basically be a matter of including a 'cheap' DVI>Displayport converter then pin-matching it to the screen.
I'm actively working on a way to achieve it, too, though (with my Asus Eee 1215T.)
Sjael said:
The issue is laptop displays typically use LVDS, which is very incompatible with DVI/HDMI signals. You basically need a DVI>LVDS board, which will run into the hundreds of dollars to buy like that.
Unless your laptop uses DisplayPort for it's display connection (unlikely on a netbook,) in which case it would basically be a matter of including a 'cheap' DVI>Displayport converter then pin-matching it to the screen.
I'm actively working on a way to achieve it, too, though (with my Asus Eee 1215T.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doing a little bit more research and we have a possible solution, it may require splicing out the HDMI cable to get audio off the connector but this could work.....and it's $29
http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CCAQ8wIwAA#
naturefreak85 said:
Doing a little bit more research and we have a possible solution, it may require splicing out the HDMI cable to get audio off the connector but this could work.....and it's $29
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a board designed for a specific miniITX motherboard - it takes whatever the mobo puts out and turns it into DVI and LVDS. If you could figure out what signals you need to provide to that board, then make those out of an HDMI signal, you might have a way in. Not sure just what functions that board actually provides, and it would be a rather extensive project to find out. I'm guessing that since it has a fair bit of circuitry behind the DVI port, it's not a natively DVI/HDMI-compatible signal.
That means a bit of reverse-engineering though, which I'm not *too* keen on doing. My current line of thought involves using some form of portable media player with a decent screen, since they typically accept some form of video input, haxxed into a case with a USB keyboard and (maybe) touchpad. The hard part is finding a usable screen that is actually better than the one on the Atrix.
That, or find a broken (not the screen! ) modern, high-end laptop that uses Displayport for it's display..
PROPOSE: The creation of a connection protocol that will force/enable standardization of all mobile devices... One in which that can work with current technology connection no matter the device. Simple embedding the wires into a custom case that will act as the ALL-IN-ONE adapter.
LIKE the 19-connector apple protocol or the PDMI (Portable Digital Media Interface)
While, this case will add to the bulk to older/newer devices I would rather gain the ability to use multitudes of accessories without the need of multiple adapter connection.
ADDITIONALLY: I truly believe we should think about apples supporters and help them as well by developing this connector with them in mind... This will force the market to stop deciding to design apple, android or windows and focus on making cool accessories and letting the customers figure it out.
I hope this made sense... I did call three case companies and two wire companies and they stated they liked the Idea but do not think there is a large enough audience to ensure success...
THIS IS AS FAR AS I CAN GO... I CAN COME UP WITH THE MONEY TO START THE PROCESS BUT LACK THE KNOW-HOW AND SUPPORTERS TO MAKE THIS A SUCCESS....
The Standardized Developers Connector needs to not required the need for hardware or drivers. Developing for the future while enabling the past to connect to the same accessories....
HOPE This made sense any questions or comments let me know...
Image a case with the standardized connection but you can add additional specific to your need to alleviate the need for another adapter... EXAMPLE.... The standardize connector on the bottom a head phone jack at the top and hdmi and multiple standard usb to enable a pc experience at any hdmi capable screen and mouse and key board.
Then when I am home I can plug my standardized connection into my media setup and use my bluetooth keyboard mouse and game pad and utilize my big screen as a media center...
Then go the my favorite bar to open spin night plug my standardized connection into their Standardized developed spin tables and battle the other contestants...
Then when I want to upgrade I plug my standardized connected device into a cluster of old devices that I will pass forward to kids of friends and families but until then they will create a virtual power house of processing for my new interactive input device...
I'm designing a dock for the N7v2 for use in a car. It will have Qi wireless charging and Bluetooth audio receiver, with a standard 3.5mm audio output. It should be compatible with most cases.
I am also currently designing a mounting method that should be close to universal between different cars, and should not fall off like most other docks in the market.
I designed one for the N7v1 using the Pogo pins, and I can never go back to not having a dock for my tablet in my car. It's amazing the difference it made for me.
I want to know a couple things.Please reply with the following template:
1. Would you want a dock like this?
2. How much do you expect to pay for it?
Thank you everyone, in advance!
lorddralnu said:
I'm designing a dock for the N7v2 for use in a car. It will have Qi wireless charging and Bluetooth audio receiver. It should be compatible with most cases.
I am also currently designing a mounting method that should be close to universal between different cars, and should not fall off like most other docks in the market.
I designed one for the N7v1 using the Pogo pins, and I can never go back to not having a dock for my tablet in my car. It's amazing the difference it made for me.
I want to know a couple things.Please reply with the following template:
1. Would you want a dock like this?
2. How much do you expect to pay for it?
Thank you everyone, in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a great idea. Do you have any links showing your work with N7v1? Heck, I may be interested in that version since the v1 tablet can be had for cheap these days and is more than capable for the limited functions needed in a car. At any rate:
1. yes, would be interested
2. no idea what a fair price would be, but $50-$100 seems like a fair ballpark
I would think very carefully why you need a wireless charger in a car.
Heat kills batteries; tablets in cars get hot. Why add heat to your woes?
The tablet is likely to be busy playing music and navigating, often in full sunlight. Why add to the heating problems by using a wireless charger when a 5v cord charger attached to the car supply will do the trick?
The wireless car mount/charger iterations for the Nexus 4 were a failure, I recall.
rant said:
Sounds like a great idea. Do you have any links showing your work with N7v1? Heck, I may be interested in that version since the v1 tablet can be had for cheap these days and is more than capable for the limited functions needed in a car. At any rate:
1. yes, would be interested
2. no idea what a fair price would be, but $50-$100 seems like a fair ballpark
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've attached 4 pictures of the dock I made for the first Nexus 7. You'll notice that it inst exactly a dock you can put in just any car. I realized I made a little too rugged... and big!
croques said:
I would think very carefully why you need a wireless charger in a car.
Heat kills batteries; tablets in cars get hot. Why add heat to your woes?
The tablet is likely to be busy playing music and navigating, often in full sunlight. Why add to the heating problems by using a wireless charger when a 5v cord charger attached to the car supply will do the trick?
The wireless car mount/charger iterations for the Nexus 4 were a failure, I recall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, that's why I don't leave the tablet in the car, I keep it with me. While I'm in the car, if it's hot out I will have the A/C on anyways, so heat has not been an issue.
Most of my broken devices are dead because the USB port broke because of wear and tear. One of the points of this dock is to reduce that. Plugging in a device everytime I get in the car is partly to blame for such failures. I would have used Pogo Pins, like with the first Nexus 7, but they don't exist on the second.
Shared app developing ideas
Hey everyone,
my name is joseph and i am new to this website. I am also new to the whole rooting phones as well as i am learning the basics of computer science-- os, rom, ram, eprom, android, custom roms.....etc.
I honestly have no idea what i am looking to read and study up on so if you have any ideas than please let me know so i can educate myself. I end goal is to be a program developer.
Also i have an amazing ideas of a great new app. I have the layouts for the app but don't have the knowledge to build the app myself. If you are interested in learning more about my idea and possibly collaberate pleae let me know and we can possibly exchange numbers.
Another thing, i am an inventor and creator.
-----trickyspartan
lorddralnu said:
Most of my broken devices are dead because the USB port broke because of wear and tear. One of the points of this dock is to reduce that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look at active Brodit car mounts - say for a Nexus 4. There the device is supported and aligned as it glides onto or off the USB. There is no possibility of twisting or yawing.
I think your proposal maybe over-kill - simplest solutions are always best IMHO. A guy in the Nexus 4 forum came to no good end and had a lot of unhappy 'subscribers'. Just saying.
croques said:
Look at active Brodit car mounts - say for a Nexus 4. There the device is supported and aligned as it glides onto or off the USB. There is no possibility of twisting or yawing.
I think your proposal maybe over-kill - simplest solutions are always best IMHO. A guy in the Nexus 4 forum came to no good end and had a lot of unhappy 'subscribers'. Just saying.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would normally agree. I was hoping to make one that doesnt require a case to be removed to use. I designed my previous dock the way you describe (except it used the Pogo pins on the side), but I always had to remove the case and eventually the first case was showing signs of damage from being removed so often.
My hope is that the base platform of the dock I want to build will be compatible with multiple models of smartphones and tablets that are Qi capable. That'll require a lot more planning, but may be worth it.
lorddralnu said:
.
My hope is that the base platform of the dock I want to build will be compatible with multiple models of smartphones and tablets that are Qi capable. That'll require a lot more planning, but may be worth it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well if you're set on the route you've described; ... I see you've picked up on the Peltier pump in another thread. Credit me somewhere if you make it!
But I might consider an approach made by Philips in an Android Bluetooth Speaker and dock. The adjustment for USB and its placement on an edge, plus 180 degree rotation needed for some models, was catered for physically. A much cheaper approach which copes with tablets and phones!
croques said:
Well if you're set on the route you've described; ... I see you've picked up on the Peltier pump in another thread. Credit me somewhere if you make it!
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I think I will use a Peltier pump. And yes, I'll make sure you get credit for that idea I'll mount the transmitting coil onto the cold side (probably with a layer of copper in between, we'll try several things) and have the hot side of the pump mounted to the aluminum/sheet metal of the back plate (probably with thermal paste as well). I'll have the pump on a simple thermostat. Good thing I have an EE helping me with this project
Hopefully the final product won't need a Peltier pump, but I will definitely have it in the prototype.
croques said:
But I might consider an approach made by Philips in an Android Bluetooth Speaker and dock. The adjustment for USB and its placement on an edge, plus 180 degree rotation needed for some models, was catered for physically. A much cheaper approach which copes with tablets and phones!
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Click to collapse
I haven't had very good experiences with using that type of dock The results of daily use tend to be USB ports that are stretched and loose. At least that's how it has been in my experience.
lorddralnu said:
I'll mount the transmitting coil onto the cold side (probably with a layer of copper in between, we'll try several things) and have the hot side of the pump mounted to the aluminum/sheet metal of the back plate (probably with thermal paste as well). I'll have the pump on a simple thermostat. Good thing I have an EE helping me with this project
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't forget to talk to your EE about eddy current loses in any conductors (copper, aluminium) you have nearby to your induction coil.
Interesting read, but with the cooler this is going to be a very expensive dock. Without it, look to Canada for your market.
I rigged up one for my Nexus 4 last Winter. Based on some testing, I used the most efficient charger I could find for that phone (the LG wcp-700). It worked very well... until late spring when the mercury broke 70. To make a long story short, I pulled it last month as the phone was getting too hot. This in a suv with a 4 liter v6 with plenty of air conditioning, front and rear.
Without the cooler, the tablet needs to be located directly in front of a vent, or even in moderate climates the unit will get hot enough to significantly reduce charging current.
One more thing to consider... the Nexus 7 is polarized vertically. This means that it is invisible in landscape orientation for anyone wearing polarized driving glasses, which I am willing to bet is a large percentage of your prospective market (tech savvy, auto enthusiasts). Most displays designed for vehicles are polarized at 45°, making this not such an issue.
While the tinkerer, software developer, and electronic geek in me wanted a fully integrated tablet in my truck, I soon came to the conclusion that it was simply not practical. What is really needed is a properly done appRadio, where a head unit can mirror the display of a mobile device (ideally wirelessly - miracast, etc.) with a control link set up to pass touches on the head unit back to the mobile device. We're about 30% there now, but a lack of standards, and major players wanting proprietary solutions is a problem.
I wish you much success with your endeavor, but just wanted to share my experience and feelings that this will not be all that marketable a product.
The problems you had with the nexus 4 does not necessarily effect the nexus 7. The nexus 4 was pretty terrible at wireless charging. I had a car setup with a qi charger with the lumia 920 and it worked great even in hot weather. I am not saying the nexus 7 will work, but it might.
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
txaggies07 said:
The nexus 4 was pretty terrible at wireless charging.
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What makes you say that? I ask as I have seen relatively similar performance with both the N7 and N4. The tricky thing about the N4 is that the coil is not centered in the vertical dimension, so for folks making the assumption that it is, there will be quite a bit of offset.
Solutions Etcetera said:
What makes you say that? I ask as I have seen relatively similar performance with both the N7 and N4. The tricky thing about the N4 is that the coil is not centered in the vertical dimension, so for folks making the assumption that it is, there will be quite a bit of offset.
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I say that because of all the issues people had with car docks. It also had issues with the dt-900 qi chargers when it shouldn't have. It heated up excessively with most chargers.
I wonder if there will be an Official dock that lets you:
1. Charge
2. Expand TV HDMI out
3. USB port for Hard drive access
I really want the Nexus & FHD to be a Home entertainment player...may be a remote/ Or Kinect like gesture control app built in with the dock
Hope this comes true...it will be the best Combo for a home unit!
Can malware be installed in a vehicle (2014 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid) via USB port from iPhone?
I ask this question because I am a rideshare driver and I have let passengers connect iphones via USB to play their music. An unsettling thought came to me regarding someone potentially installing malware from their iphone in my cars system. Can this be done? I am not asking for any probability or likeliness of this happening. I just want to know if it can be done. If malware is installed via USB, can it then gain access beyond the media controls, can it then track me and/or maliciously attack any operating aspect of my car? I am concerned that this has been done, how can I solve the problem? Can the dealership/service center scan my vehicle to see if it has malware? Can they "factory reset" the cars computer and process the most current updates? Is it expensive to do so?
I suppose the best preventive measures is to always have the cars bluetooth off. Only provide AUX to listen to music. Only provide 12V usb plugin charger. However, I only put this thought into the bluetooth aspect of it. The other day I slipped up and was cought off guard. Passenger asked me if I had an iphone cable. I assumed they were just going to charge their phone. But then they asked me if they could play their music and not giving any thought I just unplugged from 12V and plugged it into cars USB port. It wasnt till after I dropped off passenger, that I realised I compromised my security measure of not allowing anyone to connect their device to my car (aside from AUX).
I think we take these sorts of things for granted just by letting strangers we dont know connect devices to our cars. This can compromise our safety, privacy and cars mechanical function if someone wants to be malicious.
Side Note: I do not use the cars BlueLink and never have. With that being said, can BlueLink then be compromised by the malware or be accessed even though I have never used it?