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I have travelled to devon on Saturday and used Google maps navigation which is simply superb as u could see the traffic jams in advance (believe me there were plenty of them) I had my phone charger charging my desire but the battery drained still any idea why surely the charger should charge it or keep the power at the same level ?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Anyone surely someone must know why the car charger hasn't enough power to charge the phone when running navigation and the normal phone functions
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
I have no solution but I have the same problem. Quite frustrating.
You need a charger that outputs at least 1000mA. Most in-car chargers only output 500mA, and so the phone will discharge quicker than the charger can charge it.
Regards,
Dave
foxmeister said:
You need a charger that outputs at least 1000mA. Most in-car chargers only output 500mA, and so the phone will discharge quicker than the charger can charge it.
Regards,
Dave
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Click to collapse
especially with some GPS apps that consume lots of juice...
Any suggestions which are the best chargers ? Does anyone know what the new HTC dock will incorporate ?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Get a cheap USB cable extender, cut it in half and short the middle 2 pins. Don't remember what colours they are. Look on Wikipedia.
I had same problem. Not anymore. Charges properly when I plug in through the custom cable.
This is a common problem.
It bugged me sufficiently that I investigated it in detail.
The Desire, and presumably some (all?) other HTC phones, employ relatively complex charging circuitry.
When you plug a USB cable into the phone, the phone does at least two different checks to determine what type of power source you have just connected.
If you have plugged in a mains powered official HTC charger, which has a rated output of 1A, then the phone knows that it is safe to draw a maximum of 1A from that charger.
The phone will then draw enough current to power itself and, on top of that, charge the battery at the same time.
This current will typically be in the region of 800mA (0.8A) to 900mA (0.9A).
Under these conditions there is enough current to power all the functions of the phone, including WiFi, Bluetooth and GPS, as well as the usual GSM radio and the phone's other functions, as well as being able to charge the battery.
However, if the phone believes that it is connected to a power source with a lower rating such as a standard USB port, then it will limit the maximum current that it draws from that power source to between 400mA (0.4A) and 500mA (0.5A) as this is the maximum officially provided by a USB port.
In other words, the phone is intelligent enough not to overload a standard USB port but, when more power is available, it is able to use it.
The mechanism that HTC uses to detect a power supply capable of supplying 1A, as opposed to a USB port, is very simple indeed.
When the phone detects that an external power source has been connected, it checks to see if the two data lines of the USB connector on the bottom of the phone have been short-circuited.
If they have been short-circuited, the phone takes this to mean that a suitable power source has been connected providing a current of at least 1A.
If the data lines are not short-circuited, the phone assumes that the power is coming from a USB port or other device not capable of providing more than 500mA.
In practice, the way this has been implemented is that within the official mains powered HTC charger, the two data pins of the USB connector are shorted together.
As soon as you connect this charger to the Desire, the phone detects the short-circuit and knows that it is connected to a charger capable of supplying 1A.
This particular trick seems to be something unique to HTC rather than being a universal standard, although this is a bit of a guess on my part based on having looked at only a few other chargers.
What this means is that if you have a car charger that is rated at 1A or higher, your HTC Desire will still only draw a maximum of 500mA from this charger.
This problem is easily rectified by opening up the charger and soldering together the two centre pens of the USB connector so that the phone sees this short-circuit and realises that it can safely draw I higher current from the charger.
Unless you know what you are doing and fully understand what I have explained above, then please don't go fiddling around with your charger.
I have carried out this modification myself on a couple of non-HTC mains-powered chargers and a couple of 12V car chargers with 100% success.
I have, however, found that some 12V chargers, even though they are rated at 1A or even 1.5A do not result in the Desire drawing the expected current.
What I found was that the phone would draw only about 250mA and then, after I had shorted the data terminals within the charger, the phone would draw about 450mA but not the 850mA or so that I had expected.
I have yet to determine with certainty why this is but it appears that as the phone begins to draw current from the charger it is able to detect if there is even a relatively small dip in the voltage coming from the charger and, if so, the phone backs off on the amount of current that it draws.
I will be doing a few more tests in my electronics lab to try and get to the bottom of this and provide a more detailed analysis and, hopefully, a useful solution.
In the meantime though, I have at least solved the problem that I was having and, based on numerous forum posts, the same problem that many other people have been having with car chargers not effectively charging the Desire.
Tim
mercianary said:
Get a cheap USB cable extender, cut it in half and short the middle 2 pins. Don't remember what colours they are. Look on Wikipedia.
I had same problem. Not anymore. Charges properly when I plug in through the custom cable.
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Snap!
I didn't see your post before making mine (above) but my experimentation agrees fully with what you've said.
You can do it the way you've described, by modifying a cable, or you can do it inside the charger itself.
Just make sure that the cable going to the phone has all four USB wires in it. Some of them only have the two power wires, so the phone will never detect the short circuited data lines.
Tim
If you do not want to open your car charger, you can always create a male to female adapter that shots D+ and D- on the female side like the one in the attached picture
Obviously, the charger needs to be able to provide the 1Amps that are needed. If not, it will at best shutdown in protection mode, at worst fry completely with a great chance of fire...
Interesting stuff...
I bought an official HTC car charger and noticed that the included usb cable, when plugged into a pc, does not allow data transfer, only charging.
Can anyone explain that ? Why would there be a difference in the wiring ?
They want you to buy an official USB cable I guess ? Considering any microusb cable works I'm surprised they bother
Maybe because they just put the two VCC and GND wires in there, thus saving on the cabling cost.
Ok how about this then......
I have a USB port I'm my car (to plug in music on a dongle I presume) if I use the USB lead from my charger supplied with the phone (which also works as a data cable) I get a the charging status icon on the battery bar.
So......
Is my phone charging at 1 amp on the car, and at home or am I getting 0.5 on both or something else?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
_Crusoe_ said:
Ok how about this then......
I have a USB port I'm my car (to plug in music on a dongle I presume) if I use the USB lead from my charger supplied with the phone (which also works as a data cable) I get a the charging status icon on the battery bar.
So......
Is my phone charging at 1 amp on the car, and at home or am I getting 0.5 on both or something else?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you check your battery stats by dialing *#*#4636#*#* and look at battery info, then you can see if it is charged by USB (max 500 mA) or at AC (more then 500mA)
I bought the official HTC charger, works perfectly.
thanks a lot for the explanation. I went for an uprated USB car charger but was still using normal cables to plug into it and the phone wasnt keeping up when bluetooth and GPS was on and was flat by the end of a long journey. Have tried the mod and phone is showing as plugged into AC so hopefully this is going to sort my issues.
So am I right in saying that, unless you get one which has been adapted as described above, there is no real difference between one in-car charger and another - none of them will be up to the job of keeping the phone full of jiuce whilst running GPS over a long journey.
Was thinking of shelling out for a Brodit kit, but at £50+, I'll stick with a cheap one.
Narco77 said:
Interesting stuff...
I bought an official HTC car charger and noticed that the included usb cable, when plugged into a pc, does not allow data transfer, only charging.
Can anyone explain that ? Why would there be a difference in the wiring ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the offical charger and the usb cable is fine for data transfer.
Bingo Accent said:
So am I right in saying that, unless you get one which has been adapted as described above, there is no real difference between one in-car charger and another - none of them will be up to the job of keeping the phone full of jiuce whilst running GPS over a long journey.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really.
For the "mod" to work, your charger must be able to source at least 1000mA which most can't anyway.
So you first have to find a charger that does and then, if it's not already the case, short the D+ and D- cables together.
Note that this can be done by disassembling the charger (not being sure of being able to put it back together), by using conductive glue on the USB plug itself (a bit invasive) or by using an adapter like the one I shown in my previous message (but you need to do it yourself or have someone do it for you)
I've seen people complaining that the i747 doesn't charage when your using USB OTG. I was watching a 720p mkv movie off my wd-750gb hd and noticed my battery was going up not down. I seem to have gotten it working with the following combo: Generic USB OTG L shaped cable, D-link usb2.0 hub that I hardwired the positive 5vdc rail to the host upstream power rail and [ROM] AOKP(Jellybean) Task & Ktoonsez 9/11. I had previously modded the usb hub to work with my Atrix as it needs 5vdc on the host rail in order to activate host mode.
There are a few ways to get the charging working. I have one of these
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/usb-2-0-4-port-hub-with-splitter-cable-black-18cm-125451?item=30
and if I plug the black line in and the red line into a USB port, I get charging. It just seems to have to do with if you're on a powered hub and if the 5v rail is hot.
Now I need to get an MHL adapter.
Yeah that's my next thing to test. I have one in the mail now.
Sent from my SGH-I747 using xda premium
When I used OTG cable, stuff I plug into it get power from my i747... In theory, I can charge other devices from my i747.
However, I suppose if the device connected to the i747 via OTG actually is hot (supplies power instead of getting power), it would then charge the phone instead...
Just a theory,.... A powered hub (with it's own power supply), might be able to charge the phone and power the devices connected to it... But a non-powered hub will get power from the i747 and power devices connected to the hub from the phone's battery... Do note that some devices require a certain amount of power to switch on and actually work... the power supplied by the phone is limited, so using a hub will divide the power across the connected devices to it...
This is the most finicky phone I've had in regards to the USB cable. I've never had an issue in the past with any of the mini usb cables I have on hand, but half of them don't work on this phone. Caused me problems with odin flashing, transfering files, etc - so I wouldn't rule out the cable as a possibility for your problems. Also, if you have a higher rated charger (more amp rating on the label) you might see if you get the same behavior. Also, I find that once in a while, my phone is hot after being 'off'. When I go into battery usage I find that 'Android System' is chomping the battery up. I haven't figured out if it's rom specific or just a 'feature'. Maybe that's drawing some extra current - check your task manager when you're watching your show to see if something might be getting busy in the background.
Ozark_8125 said:
This is the most finicky phone I've had in regards to the USB cable. I've never had an issue in the past with any of the mini usb cables I have on hand, but half of them don't work on this phone. Caused me problems with odin flashing, transfering files, etc - so I wouldn't rule out the cable as a possibility for your problems. Also, if you have a higher rated charger (more amp rating on the label) you might see if you get the same behavior. Also, I find that once in a while, my phone is hot after being 'off'. When I go into battery usage I find that 'Android System' is chomping the battery up. I haven't figured out if it's rom specific or just a 'feature'. Maybe that's drawing some extra current - check your task manager when you're watching your show to see if something might be getting busy in the background.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My moto atrix was way worse for cables and chargers. At least I can over ride the 500mah draw with the sgs3. Unless it was made by moto or you crossed the d+ d- lines it refused to go into fast mode.
Hey all,
The ONE gets too hot... Solved :good:
The ONE charges slowly... Solved :good:
My HTC ONE was charging very VERY slowly since I got it... And it was actually discharging slowly if plugged in and using navigation in the car..
Now, I don't have the original HTC car charger and its a stupid amount to pay for that...
I've used over a dozen of cables and chargers but none of them would charge properly...
Ordered this earlier this week and it got delivered today
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321159008835&ssPageName=ADME:L:eek:C:GB:3160
Looks decent, and I would highly recommend it for anyone having charging problems with universal USB chargers.
Just tested it, I fired up Waze (which I usually use), Mobile Data, GPS, Skype in background and anything that would run in the background using as much power as it can .... Streaming Music over Bluetooth.. Screen was ON all the time with MAX brightness
My ONE slowly (really slowly) went from 53% to 54% ..:laugh::laugh:
Regarding ROM etc (if it makes any difference) , I'm running Viper One with ElementalX Kernel. 384Mhz Min and 1674 Max. Undervolted to -50mV & Fastcharge ... plus an Air Vent mounted phone holder for cooling features .. The ONE gets too hot
I can finally use the ONE as a proper nav, without having to worry about switching the screen off every now and then...
Sounds good, and in what charger you use?
Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.
Kraize said:
Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.
rancor22 said:
That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.
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Click to collapse
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
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Click to collapse
Yep, might not fry a powered USB 3.0 port but don't try this.
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
Mpro747 said:
Sounds good, and in what charger you use?
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Click to collapse
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
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Click to collapse
Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you guys might wanna look at this sweet babe, you will know exactly how many hours to fully charge ur HTC One :silly:
http://www.thepowerpot.com/solar-power-optimized-practical-meter
hmm interesting, but if the 24awg cable has a potential of frying your usb port, guess what this one will do
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4
Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 24AWG wire used in the cable does nothing for helping your phone charge faster, its the fact that the two data lines are shorted in the cable. This tells the device that it is connected to a dedicated charger, even if it is not, and that it can pull however much current it needs.
Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.
Vincent Law said:
Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.
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Click to collapse
Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.
rancor22 said:
Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.
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Click to collapse
That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.
Vincent Law said:
That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.
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Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.
rancor22 said:
Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.
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Click to collapse
Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.
Vincent Law said:
Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.
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Click to collapse
I am not disagreeing with you that hosts can control and meter power but it does that by assuming the end device will also follow usb spec and is listening to what it is saying. So yes what I am saying is that for a device that does not follow USB spec and does not enumerate the only current control it receives is a hardware current limit. I don't know the whole usb spec well I know battery charging specifications so if this is completely wrong can you point me to the part of the USB specifications where it says the host must limit current draw. In a perfect system the hardware current limit will change as the host specifies how much power the device is allowed to draw, but more likely the protection IC(s) are just there in the case of a short, esd, or a device that is supplying power to the host (reverse current).
Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables
bliblablub said:
Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just bought a RocketFish USB car charger and cable From BestBuy. It charges wicked fast, even when using navi and or streaming. I believe is is 10 watts and 2.1 amp output. That adapter will probably fix ya up, I used to have the same problem but not any more
Sent from my gimped not yet unlocked Verizon One
Says it takes 7-8 hours sometimes even 10 hours to charge via USB from my PC and with its original charger it goes from 0%-100% in 3 hours, it doesn't have fast charge but it's an OK time to let it charge overnight, why isn't it as fast from PC, anyone else experiencing this?
KuGeL94 said:
Says it takes 7-8 hours sometimes even 10 hours to charge via USB from my PC and with its original charger it goes from 0%-100% in 3 hours, it doesn't have fast charge but it's an OK time to let it charge overnight, why isn't it as fast from PC, anyone else experiencing this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because the USB standard requires it. Unless a PC/device supports CDP detection/negotiation (rare), no device is allowed to draw more than 500 mA from a USB port.
I'm wondering how you're surprised by this since it's been a requirement of the USB standard for over a decade.
Entropy512 said:
Because the USB standard requires it. Unless a PC/device supports CDP detection/negotiation (rare), no device is allowed to draw more than 500 mA from a USB port.
I'm wondering how you're surprised by this since it's been a requirement of the USB standard for over a decade.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I owned a Moto G (1.st Gen) before and it charged exactly as it did from the wall adapter, never knew about that USB standard. At least I've learned something.
Someone told me you have to edit some settings from your device (Kernel Settings (ROOT)) to ''ask'' the PC drain more power from the USB Port.
Here in Japan the ¥100 shop (like a pound/dollar store) sells a little adapter that you put in the USB port that allows you to charge an iPad (normally you can't because 500 mA is insufficient) via a PC's USB port, presumably by increasing output to 1 amp. I suppose that would do the trick for the Zenfone too.
KuGeL94 said:
I owned a Moto G (1.st Gen) before and it charged exactly as it did from the wall adapter, never knew about that USB standard. At least I've learned something.
Someone told me you have to edit some settings from your device (Kernel Settings (ROOT)) to ''ask'' the PC drain more power from the USB Port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some PCs have what are defined as Charging Downstream Ports (CDPs). Some Android devices can detect these, some can't. Qualcomm's PMICs seem to be more featured in terms of detecting stuff - IIIRC, Qualcomm's PMICs also support detecting "nonstandard" (Apple) chargers.
A lot of developers hack up kernels on devices without CDP detection support to assume a CDP - this is dangerous since you might blow a fuse on a PC/hub that is just an SDP. For example, my monitor's USB ports are all dead thanks to a cheapo Chinese GPS that pulled way more than 500 mA.
For more - see the BC1.2 spec at http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/devclass_docs/
Hello,
I have a question about the charge of my new S20 (Exynos version):
1) connected to the charger it charges (small 'lightning bolt" on the battery symbol).
2) connected to a booted PC it charges (same for the lightning symbol)
3) connected to the same PC in standby: the symbol appears for a fraction of a second then disappears and it does not charge. It is the same cable and USB plug as in case 2.
4) PC in standby: other USB port / other cable: it is the same, charge symbol very brief then nothing, it does not charge.
Another phone charges without any problem with the same cables/USB socket on the PC in standby ... I do not understand what is wrong.
Same issue with the S20 plugged to another PC ... but ok with other phones
An expert opinion? Thanks in advance.
Its charging board issue
Same issue faced in my s9 then chaging baord changed by service center
I don't understand the "charging" board problem : the phone charges with the same cable when the PC is on, with a charger, with USB in the car...
I was thinking that maybe when the PC is in sleep mode there is not enough power going through the USB port and it won't charge this phone model ?
I think I get a possible answer to my question :
---> using a shorter (about 1 feet only - Aukey brand) USB-A to USB-C cable allows to charge the S20 while the PC is in sleep mode. Any longer cable will only charge the other phones.
--> I guess the S20 require more "power" from an USB port to start recharging. Of course while the PC is on it must have more power as it works even with a longer cable.
Are all the jacks/ports clean and free of debris?
Are the cables good? Partial cable failures happen and charging anomolies is how it will first manifest its self many times.
You'll get much faster charging using the Samsung brick... best to limit charge to 90%, ideally 60-70% to lengthen battery life.
Yes the phone is 2 weeks "old" so no debris in port. It is working flawlessly except when trying to charge it when the PC is in sleep mode ... if the cable is too long.
But I'll use the S9 or S20 charger so it'll be ok.
It doesnt sound like your phone's fault but usb port in your motherboard - if it works fine while using charger then i wouldnt worry
if it works fine while using charger then i wouldnt worry
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Agreed ! Even I think the USB port is working fine with every other (older) phone ... but it seems this S20 requires more "energy" to start charging. It is the same while trying with a laptop in sleep mode.
Why would you charge it over pc? Isnt it super slow?
Sent from my SM-G985F using Tapatalk
Explanation:
The ports on yor pc when it's sleeping are in power saving mode. It works with a shorter cable because of something called inner resistance of the cable. When the cable is longer but made of the same material it has a bigger resistance therefore the phone does not get enough current to charge. You see the bolt icon for a bit because of a current peak coming from the usb port. Then the phone thinks "damn, that's not enough power" and stops charging.
All of this means that when you connect your phone to charge when the pc is not sleeping it becomes barely enough current to charge, but nevertheless it becomes something, that's why it charges.
Faulty charging board and etc. is not the problem, there is actually no problem. Your phone just needs a current maybe over 1A/5V to start charging, your port probably doesn't have that capacity, especially when pc is sleeping.
Just use the charger, it's much faster and doesn't stress the battery for a long periods of time.
honor701 said:
Explanation:
The ports on yor pc when it's sleeping are in power saving mode. It works with a shorter cable because of something called inner resistance of the cable. When the cable is longer but made of the same material it has a bigger resistance therefore the phone does not get enough current to charge. You see the bolt icon for a bit because of a current peak coming from the usb port. Then the phone thinks "damn, that's not enough power" and stops charging.
All of this means that when you connect your phone to charge when the pc is not sleeping it becomes barely enough current to charge, but nevertheless it becomes something, that's why it charges.
Faulty charging board and etc. is not the problem, there is actually no problem. Your phone just needs a current maybe over 1A/5V to start charging, your port probably doesn't have that capacity, especially when pc is sleeping.
Just use the charger, it's much faster and doesn't stress the battery for a long periods of time.
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Thanks a lot for you technical explanations. I am using a wallcharger instead of charging the phone overnight hooked to the Pc in sleep mode.