I've got firestick 2.gen and it's not working.
I've plugged it to working HDMI port in my TV and apply power to micro usb port, but there's no signal on tv. Tried on other TV but it's the same. Stick is hot after couple of minutes.
Is it hardware failure?
snebojsa said:
I've got firestick 2.gen and it's not working.
I've plugged it to working HDMI port in my TV and apply power to micro usb port, but there's no signal on tv. Tried on other TV but it's the same. Stick is hot after couple of minutes.
Is it hardware failure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried unlocking it before this occurred? Mine did the exact same thing that I literally had to buy one. It appears there's a hardware revision with the tank that clearly prevents people from unlocking and maybe the clk component Amazon revised makes it hard brick? For some reason while unlocking it, it wouldn't get passed the "waiting for bootrom" after I tried countless number of times unlocking it with foil, some jump wire, and a wrapper. I would recommend just buying the 4k mantis instead the tank. That's what I did and its much faster.
I didn't try anything, it came to me like this so I don't know what happened.
Is there anything I can try to unbick it?
snebojsa said:
I didn't try anything, it came to me like this so I don't know what happened.
Is there anything I can try to unbick it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Idk if it helps for hdmi problems, but the unbrick thread is here:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/development/unlock-fire-tv-stick-2nd-gen-tank-t3907002
I tried that, with live Debian, but PC won't recognise the stick at all when I plug it with USB cable and shorting CLK and GROUND.
Is that means it's a hardware failure?
snebojsa said:
I tried that, with live Debian, but PC won't recognise the stick at all when I plug it with USB cable and shorting CLK and GROUND.
Is that means it's a hardware failure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In lsusb you should get the mediatek phone message, in case you short correct and steady.
Besides that, if its a new stick, lets say up to a half year old, it could be one of the bootrom patched sticks.
What messages in lsusb showed up without a short?
There is no message at all, like I did not connect anything.
snebojsa said:
There is no message at all, like I did not connect anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There isn't a message at all, even if you don't short the stick? The CLK resistor is fine?
You said it gets hot after a few minutes, so it should say something I guess.
Maybe check for cold joints at the usb port and measure the power level somewhere near the emmc (1,8v).
If you have an USB to TTL Serial adapter, you can take an UART serial console log. The UART pads are mentioned in the unbrick thread, see the picture.
Short or no short, no message at all, CLK is fine.
It gets very hot after few minutes.
I have USB to TTL serial adapter, have seen the pads and will try to connect that way and see what will happen.
snebojsa said:
Short or no short, no message at all, CLK is fine.
It gets very hot after few minutes.
I have USB to TTL serial adapter, have seen the pads and will try to connect that way and see what will happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok. As you know, connect RX->TX and TX->RX.
A power connection isn't needed, GND is enough.
Baudrate bootrom is 115200.
After bootrom the boot process switches to a higher rate, I would try 921600.
I just connected the stick to TTL adapter, but there is no log at all. Double check connections but no log, done this before so I know how to do it.
I think this means it's dead beyond repair.
snebojsa said:
I think this means it's dead beyond repair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the same way...
If you like, you can use the stick for read/write tests with your e-MMC adapter...
Haha, you're right, will try that, thanks ?
snebojsa said:
Haha, you're right, will try that, thanks ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take a look here , in order to find DAT0 and CMD on the board.
You can desolder the whole e-MMC chip with hotair from the board too.
Ok, thanks.
Sus_i said:
Take a look here , in order to find DAT0 and CMD on the board.
You can desolder the whole e-MMC chip with hotair from the board too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wonder if you could do that and solder in a new e-MMC chip with more storage? Is there anything hardcoded about the 8gb internal storage limit, or the type of chip that can be used? Though I lack the tools needed to accomplish such a job
dictorclef said:
I wonder if you could do that and solder in a new e-MMC chip with more storage?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe some things gets checked at boot, like the Disk identifier (GUID), idk. Technically it should work. May be a bit undue for such a cheap device^^
Sus_i said:
Maybe some things gets checked at boot, like the Disk identifier (GUID), idk. Technically it should work. May be a bit undue for such a cheap device^^
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ik, Gotta spend more money to avoid spending less money on a better device XD
Related
I'm wondering, if I'd want to solder something to the USB port (internally of course) and the attached device is not connected, would I still be able to use the port as before(charging, etc.)? Provided I would not use > (IIRC) 5V together, could they be use simultaneously?
Why I'm asking:
I found an old OCZ Trifecta (SD to USB-Adapter with MicroSD slot) laying around. Stripping the thing down reveals a really thin logicboard, which fits almost perfectly under the normal back cover.
So I thought, if I could wire the USB connector of this adapter to the internal one, I could have additional storage. I don't know if this specific adapter is SDHC compatible, but since there are newer ones around, I could get one of those.
Thus I'm asking for advice:
a) technically possible?
b) if yes, how hard is it for a semi-newb?
c) potential trouble I should be aware of? Not meaning loss of guarantee, more about possible hardware destruction.
Images of the board:
Front
Back
S.D.Richards said:
I'm wondering, if I'd want to solder something to the USB port (internally of course) and the attached device is not connected, would I still be able to use the port as before(charging, etc.)? Provided I would not use > (IIRC) 5V together, could they be use simultaneously?
Why I'm asking:
I found an old OCZ Trifecta (SD to USB-Adapter with MicroSD slot) laying around. Stripping the thing down reveals a really thin logicboard, which fits almost perfectly under the normal back cover.
So I thought, if I could wire the USB connector of this adapter to the internal one, I could have additional storage. I don't know if this specific adapter is SDHC compatible, but since there are newer ones around, I could get one of those.
Thus I'm asking for advice:
a) technically possible?
b) if yes, how hard is it for a semi-newb?
c) potential trouble I should be aware of? Not meaning loss of guarantee, more about possible hardware destruction.
Images of the board:
Front
Back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In theory if you rigged it up to work like usb otg and charging then you might be able to get it to work. I think it takes a resistor to trigger it.
mrsatan said:
In theory if you rigged it up to work like usb otg and charging then you might be able to get it to work. I think it takes a resistor to trigger it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No you wouldn't need a resistor, you just need to short pin 4 and 5 together on the micro usb side. That's what makes it an OTG cable. Check out the picture I attached. That should be the wiring you need to make it work. Refer to the link below.
http://tech2.in.com/how-to/accessor...sb-otg-cable-for-an-android-smartphone/319982
In theory it should work. The hardest part is attaching wires to the pins of the micro usb connector. It so [email protected]#$ing tiny... not the easiest thing to do. Unless the pins of the connector goes though the other side of the board, then you can solder onto the solder points itself. That should be a lot easier. Any potential problems? You could screw up your micro usb connector... then you might not even be able to charge it if you lose that...
Good luck. I would be interested to know if you succeed.
BTW Micro SDXC 64GB in FAT32 works in my Acro S running CM10 with Nova Kernel. You can gain a lot of storage!
is it possible to charge mobile while it is in OTG mode?
Thanks for your inputs.
According to this video it doesn't seem to be too easy, guess I'll need to wait a few days for a buddy, I'm not yet skilled enough for such delicate work.
If somebody has more skill and faith in his/her talents, you should be able to get an adapter for <5€ practically everywhere.
Odp: [Q] [Xperia S] Soldering on the USB-Port
webs1821 said:
is it possible to charge mobile while it is in OTG mode?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure. Just check this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1822653
Send from my...
Xperia S
mario_666 said:
Sure. Just check this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1822653
Send from my...
Xperia S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you this is what i was looking for
I have a kf1 with a jacked up Usb port. I can get it to charge with some wiggling but it doesn't show up in device manager. Is there anyway to root without Pc or fix the port?
black_bunny said:
I have a kf1 with a jacked up Usb port. I can get it to charge with some wiggling but it doesn't show up in device manager. Is there anyway to root without Pc or fix the port?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's happened to me several times, and I can speak from experience that it is your charger failing. The USB plug on the stock chargers are poorly made, don't fit well, and will eventually fail because of it.
The new black USB cables that Amazon is selling for the second generation devices, fit very well, and will charge your device without fail.
soupmagnet said:
That's happened to me several times, and I can speak from experience that it is your charger failing. The USB plug on the stock chargers are poorly made, don't fit well, and will eventually fail because of it.
The new black USB cables that Amazon is selling for the second generation devices, fit very well, and will charge your device without fail.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the cable is fine tested with other kindle fire, the soldering connecting the port has worn away. i can wiggle it into charging but there is still no connection to pc
black_bunny said:
the cable is fine tested with other kindle fire, the soldering connecting the port has worn away. i can wiggle it into charging but there is still no connection to pc
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're dealing with an actual hardware defect like the one you've described, it will only get worse, especially if you have to finagle it to get it to work properly. You cannot root the KF without a computer, so you should probably look into getting it repaired or replaced.
Hi,
I'm desperate, I tried everything on my ZF2!!! Since I upgraded to Android 6 theUSb interface has stopped to work. I mean: I'm not able to connect the phone to my PC: no ADB, no Asus Flash tool, no xFSTK nothing.
So I decided to downgrade it to Android 5 (also unlocked the bootloader) but didn't help. Of course I tried different cables/PC/OSs and I replaced the USB pcb on the bottom of the phone.
Can anyone address me to a solution? I'm just looking for a way to flash TWRP in order to install a custom ROM.
Thank you in advance
Does it connect in TWRP?
Mr.Sqbika said:
Does it connect in TWRP?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply.
No, I never flashed the TWRP, I'm still with the stock recovery. I just unlocked the bootloader by the ASUS app.
replace bottom usb pcb
sukhwant717 said:
replace bottom usb pcb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, you are right....I forgot ...I also replaced that part
passeroxda said:
Sorry, you are right....I forgot ...I also replaced that part
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you inspected the connector to the motherboard side. also remove flex cable from the bottom side PCB and Motherboard side. inspect it if there is some broken connection point on flex cable.
sukhwant717 said:
have you inspected the connector to the motherboard side. also remove flex cable from the bottom side PCB and Motherboard side. inspect it if there is some broken connection point on flex cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I dind't this is a good idea. Thanks!
EDIT: I just finished to inspect the flex cable (also the slamm one next to it) and it's correctly attached
EDIT2: this is what I get under linux when attach the device:
[ 117.392042] usb 4-7: new full-speed USB device number 7 using ohci-pci
[ 117.576054] usb 4-7: device descriptor read/64, error -62
[ 117.868045] usb 4-7: device descriptor read/64, error -62
[ 118.156050] usb 4-7: new full-speed USB device number 8 using ohci-pci
[ 118.340040] usb 4-7: device descriptor read/64, error -62
[ 118.632047] usb 4-7: device descriptor read/64, error -62
i was not referring to connection. i was referring that remove connector and insect its connection points those shiny golden points on flex cable if those correct. else check concerned circuit with multimeter
try replacing flex and bottom pcb with other mobile if you have one
sukhwant717 said:
i was not referring to connection. i was referring that remove connector and insect its connection points those shiny golden points on flex cable if those correct. else check concerned circuit with multimeter
try replacing flex and bottom pcb with other mobile if you have one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your suggestion but, to me, look good. I double checked now, I also did when I replaced the pcb.....I should replace it to be sure.....
passeroxda said:
Thanks for your suggestion but, to me, look good. I double checked now, I also did when I replaced the pcb.....I should replace it to be sure.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
swap pcb and flex with some working phone to figure out if there is any issue with motherboard, flex or PCB.
passeroxda said:
Thanks for your suggestion but, to me, look good. I double checked now, I also did when I replaced the pcb.....I should replace it to be sure.....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
another thing you can try factory reset device. put downgrade firmware from asus website on external sdcard and flash it
sukhwant717 said:
another thing you can try factory reset device. put downgrade firmware from asus website on external sdcard and flash it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what I did. I upgraded (manually) to 6.0.1 few month ago and and when I discovered the USB problem, I used UL-Z00A-WW-52.20.40.196-user.zip to downgrade to 5.0 and unlock the bootloader by the app (now I have the white screen).
I also have a dead USB port problem. Mine bricked twice and was recovered using xfSTK and stock ww-2.20.40.198 firmware. Now I need to re-root, but the USB port can only charge (sometimes it wouldn't even charge) and no adb or anything else. My computer simply didn't see the phone. It's all stock, bootloader not yet unlocked. What else can I try before I order a replacement USB port board off ebay?
motopig said:
I also have a dead USB port problem. Mine bricked twice and was recovered using xfSTK and stock ww-2.20.40.198 firmware. Now I need to re-root, but the USB port can only charge (sometimes it wouldn't even charge) and no adb or anything else. My computer simply didn't see the phone. It's all stock, bootloader not yet unlocked. What else can I try before I order a replacement USB port board off ebay?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you tried to disconnect sim flex connector ? lot of times bottom pcb is not the culprit. its either bad flex connector or faulty flex. also try to swap USB cable lot of times that is faulty too.
sukhwant717 said:
have you tried to disconnect sim flex connector ? lot of times bottom pcb is not the culprit. its either bad flex connector or faulty flex. also try to swap USB cable lot of times that is faulty too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I reseated the sim flex at both ends and the cable is back. I'm rooted again. Thank you!
Try pushing down on the flex cable just below the sim2 slot.
It seems that these cables have got some weak connection at the bends which break very easily when replacing the usb board.
Also do you have any vibration issues?
motopig said:
I reseated the sim flex at both ends and the cable is back. I'm rooted again. Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
pleasure it worked
ruleh said:
Try pushing down on the flex cable just below the sim2 slot.
It seems that these cables have got some weak connection at the bends which break very easily when replacing the usb board.
Also do you have any vibration issues?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Vibrator and speakers both not working when I had problems. After reseating the able they all work. Or do you mean if the phone suffered any outside vibration?
motopig said:
Vibrator and speakers both not working when I had problems. After reseating the able they all work. Or do you mean if the phone suffered any outside vibration?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was talking about the vibrator.
Do other usb options(otg etc) also work?
Good morning!
I just replaced the flex connector, easy and cheap (8 euros), and my phone back alive, ready to be rooted
Thanks to everyone
I had been somewhat unlucky and while charging my beloved FLO something went puf (literally). After that I don't have any USB connectivity. Charging my N7 works (very slowly), but no USB OTG or USB ADB. OK Fine and dandy if I wouldn't be total idiot and wipe system while trying to install new ROM before transferring ROM image to internal storage.
Now I have FLO paper clip able to go to TWRP but can't install nothing. As far I understand there's no way to enable wifi in TWRP.
Any ideas what would needed to be replaced to make my FLO work again so I can put some ROM on it and make it work again.
I'm not sure if USB daughter board would suffice and solve my problem. Any suggestions?
jxl69 said:
I had been somewhat unlucky and while charging my beloved FLO something went puf (literally). After that I don't have any USB connectivity. Charging my N7 works (very slowly), but no USB OTG or USB ADB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Either the USB port developed "dry joints" or the wide silver cable (LCM) needs to be re-seated on both connectors.
Disconnect the battery before fixing LCM cable. Here is advice on USB port repair.
Replacing the daughterboard PCB should be the last resort because it is unlikely that the touch function will work 100%. It would work if we had access to the touch calibration software - the problems are described here https://forum.xda-developers.com/ne...rivers-to-calibrate-touch-screen-usb-t3334898
k23m said:
Either the USB port developed "dry joints" or the wide silver cable (LCM) needs to be re-seated on both connectors.
Disconnect the battery before fixing LCM cable. Here is advice on USB port repair.
Replacing the daughterboard PCB should be the last resort because it is unlikely that the touch function will work 100%. It would work if we had access to the touch calibration software - the problems are described here https://forum.xda-developers.com/ne...rivers-to-calibrate-touch-screen-usb-t3334898
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt re-seating would help or cleaning USB port, since it was something electrical happening with that *puf*. If my memory serves me right there was a smell of burnt electronics. I doubt that some shortage disconnected any cables.
jxl69 said:
I doubt re-seating would help or cleaning USB port, since it was something electrical happening with that *puf*. If my memory serves me right there was a smell of burnt electronics. I doubt that some shortage disconnected any cables.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like you need a new charging port and board. Easy to fit but difficult to get hold of one. Maybe purchase a broken Flo on eBay and extract the charging port board
dave457 said:
Sounds like you need a new charging port and board. Easy to fit but difficult to get hold of one. Maybe purchase a broken Flo on eBay and extract the charging port board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Even tho charging works? The only problem is data part of USB connection. USB OTG will not work neither will it connect to a PC for file transfer/adb. But if connected to PC or plug device charges. I believe it will not charge past 80 or 90%.
jxl69 said:
Even tho charging works? .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes
due to my own stupidity, i had unlocked and installed twrp with a lot of effort, as the usb is decidedly iffy
i managed to use a file manager to import the requisite lineage rom and gapps, and then in my infinite wisdom stored them somewhere volatile - one mistake i won't make again
and so when i cleaned the device prior to a "new" install, i inadvertently lost the zip files, and now the computer refuses to recognise the device
no amount of forcing the right usb driver onit works, because i presume the computer does not know it's a flo
so, is there any way i can get it connected and push the roms to storage ?
my skills at the command line are limited, but i can follow scripts
this is sad, as i was soooooooo close to completing the install, after which the usb would have become redundant (i have a wireless charger and can wifi file across with a working system)
is this thus my very first brick ?
or can i trick the usb connection into working with the computer, or somehow wirelessly transfer to such a basic installation, or rig an otg connection (i have no cables that would seem to join micro-usb to any female plug to use a memory stick or sd card in adaptor)
thanks for any suggestions :fingers-crossed:
Get an image file from Google https://developers.google.com/android/images
Try going into TWRP and go into sideloading (can't remember exact menu - only used it once to get out of a similar problem), then try to connect USB lead to PC.
Run flash-all.bat on PC and that should at least get a system on the device.
Maybe...
thanks for the suggestion, but the sideload could place the lineage.zip instead if the computer would accept a usb connection - that's the problem: sideload can't work because the usb device is not recognised
my best bet would appear to be load the zip via otg - the twrp interface appears to allow that
i'll report back here if that works (once i procure a usb otg connector)
I was in a similar position once and couldn't get a normal USB ADB connection with PC until I tried TWRP sideloading which kicked in the PC connection.
Did you try it?
OTG was the next thing I was going to suggest
scruffy1 said:
the usb is decidedly iffy
no amount of forcing the right usb driver onit works, because i presume the computer does not know it's a flo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As the USB port is broken there is no hope that an OTG adapter would work because it can not function without the data connections, exactly like PC-USB. Have a look at the port's soldering, it may need some re-work. If the port's connectors are damaged then a replacement is very cheap.
:good:
k23m said:
As the USB port is broken there is no hope that an OTG adapter would work because it can not function without the data connections, exactly like PC-USB. Have a look at the port's soldering, it may need some re-work. If the port's connectors are damaged then a replacement is very cheap.
:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the suggestion
i sprung the back and was going to attempt to reflow the solder in case it had a dodgy connection - but i noted that the actual usb connector looked like it had been stretched, and took to it with my favourite pliers and performed some creative metalwork by squeezing it
lo and behold! the otg connection worked, at least for long enough to transfer the custom rom
thereafter when i reassembled the case, the otg connection failed but now the usb link seems to be happy enough even though that makes no great sense seeing it is the same connector port, and the otg works on my other android devices
still, gotta take what you can get, and i am now the proud owner of a nexus 7 "flo" with lineage doing nicely
thanks for all assistances
scruffy1 said:
thanks for the suggestion
i sprung the back and was going to attempt to reflow the solder in case it had a dodgy connection - but i noted that the actual usb connector looked like it had been stretched, and took to it with my favourite pliers and performed some creative metalwork by squeezing it....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahh this explains why my N7 - used daily - has never developed any USB port problems! I thought that this USB port's construction was rather 'weak' so preemptively I applied a simple reinforcement, have a look at the attachments.
It was 4 years ago....
:highfive: