Related
Did a search can't find anything specific to my issues.
So I had to replace my amoled screen (Samsung brand), did the replacement everything works fine. But...
now it seems my touch screen has a mind of it's own. It will jump out of apps on me or it's favorite is to jump to the recent apps screen (the screen when you hold the home down). It first seemed to do this when I held it's sides with a little pressure, now it's doing it less. Now it jumps to the screen when I gently set it down on it's back.
I have opened the phone back up washed my hands with dish soap, then disconnected all the ribbons and q-tipped them with rubbing alcohol to clean any oil off. (this seemed to help the side squeeze issue)
I also applied clear tape to the back side of the new screen like how it was on the OEM screen since it didn't come with any kind of shielding like to OEM screen (ie that weird metal fabric like tape).
I still get issues and am not sure what it could be or I could do, taking it to VW is not an option.
Oddy enough, hitting it seems to help it, I am not sure if something is shorting or what it could be. I have removed the screen and reset it back on the touch pad still nothing helps.
I am about to try cm7 to see if it's a software or hardware thing but I suspect hardware.
Thanks guys
Try a new rom, like you said. This will 100% determine if it is hardware or software. If it still jumps around on cm7, then there is something wrong with the hardware
Sent from my HTC Incredible
I don't know a great deal about replacing hardware on a phone, but is it possible that the screen type is different than the stock type? Some Incredibles have AMOLED screens and others have SLCD. I know with computers, if you replace a part that't not compliant with the original then you have issues.
So maybe the screen you put in isn't compatible with the rest of the hardware?
Just a guess...take my advice with a grain of salt lol
No its the right screen, like I said its the Samsung screen just like oem, the slcd is a Sony product used on 2nd gen dincs. plus the screen and the digitizer are two different parts, the screen is not touch sensitive.
Ah ok. Sorry...like I said, never messed with changing phone hardware....was just tossing out an idea.
I've repaired laptop parts like the LCD, touchpad, and such and had issues with the parts not being exactly the same as OEM, that's why I was asking.
It sounds like a loose connection to me... I havent had any problems with my glass unless its greasy or something. It could also be an issue with the touchpad (button), there is a rubber piece surrounding it that apparently MUST be there... Not sure what would happen if I didn't replace it tho I didn't wanna test it out
So I CM7'ed the phone, it defiantly runs better but it does still bug out.
seems to do it more at work when it's set on my plastic type desk.
I'll pull it apart again and double check the rubber gasket, blow out the optic track button and shim the ribbon connections.
seems something is defiantly shorting just a little bit and it all seems to happen down at the 4 menu buttons side of things
so I pulled it apart one last time. removed the screen and reset it in the case, this time for what it was worth I tried very hard to make sure the screen was mounted as high up toward the top as i could for what it was worth. I also made dbl sure the screen was then firmly pressed back in place and all edges were nice and recessed into it's case.
put the mother board back on and dbl checked all the ribbon connection to make sure they were nice and securely seated and not crooked, then snapped the ribbons down.
I also extended the little grounding? fingers (the ones that press against the copper pads) to make sure they would be firmly in contact with the copper pads. I only extended the ones down by the 4 menu buttons.
I con report it's been about 36 hours and nothing has bugged out yet.
not sure exactly what the issue was but i'll keep you posted if it comes back.
I replaced my digitizer on my inc and now it will randomly have touches on the screen. I have no idea why this is happening. I have tried two different digitizers with the same problem. It gets worse, i have tried the first digitizer i got on a second phone and this phone has the same problem.
I am running cyanogenmod and have "show touch" turned on so i can tell when its happening and where. The random touches appear to happen all on there own. I can not reproduce them. They do generally happen in about the same spot/spots each time. There are two general areas and when its registers a touch it moves a little, meaning when it touches it self it dances around a little. how ever if i turn off the screen and turn it back on it usually fixes the issue for a while.
Any idea what may be causing this problem and how to fix it?
Funny, I am having the same exact problem. Replaced my digitizer about a month ago and routinely get the "random touches" or just general unresponsiveness while using my phone.
I just assumed it was a side effect of my less then perfect installation but now I wonder if the digitizer itself is shoddy.
freestylesno said:
when it touches it self it dances around a little.
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Click to collapse
Haha, excellent...
Have you considered the trackpad as the possible culprit? I know when my phone does similar things (swiping homescreens, moving the cursor when typing, etc) it's usually because the trackpad is dirty. I can't really think of why the digitizer (assuming it was properly replaced) would be causing that problem..
My buddy Bob had this happen to his Incredible too when he cracked his screen and had it replaced. He had it replaced 3x through Best Buy because each time it came back it would freak out like that. It turns out that something inside the phone was shorting out to the chassis, it would only happen when he squeezed/held the side of the phone. They ended up just giving him a new one after the third time.
brando56894 said:
My buddy Bob had this happen to his Incredible too when he cracked his screen and had it replaced. He had it replaced 3x through Best Buy because each time it came back it would freak out like that. It turns out that something inside the phone was shorting out to the chassis, it would only happen when he squeezed/held the side of the phone. They ended up just giving him a new one after the third time.
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Click to collapse
Yeah im thinking it could be something shorting but no real way to test. But after many take apart's i seem to have got the screen to a point where it does it like all the time rendering the phone useless. i have put back on the original screen and am seeing if there are problems there. (i got a new plastic housing)
k_nivesout said:
Haha, excellent...
Have you considered the trackpad as the possible culprit? I know when my phone does similar things (swiping homescreens, moving the cursor when typing, etc) it's usually because the trackpad is dirty. I can't really think of why the digitizer (assuming it was properly replaced) would be causing that problem..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah i have disconnected the track pad and tried that with no change. and i tried disconnecting the light bar for a try and it would not boot. but i only tried once and i could have messed something else up when i put it back together.
i will report back with how the stock screen does and i'm thinking that will confirm that its the replacement digitizers .
Well the stock digitizer is doing the same thing. So its someting on the board, but i have tried it on two different phones.
So im up for trying just about any suggestion at this point. I have 2 phone and 3 digitizes doing this.
Mine does the same thing. I replaced just the screen awhile back.
I thought it might be related to maybe an upgraded screen family and the kernel not supporting it or something..
Like this post:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=15132827&postcount=3626
I usually take off the back and then pull the battery and snap the case back on. Seems to fix the problem until I mess with the battery again.
Anyone know how to see what touchscreen version you have?
ok so i have 3 phones(boards) 3 digitizers. 2 phones are the same hardware version i believe, one isn't. and all three experience this problem. This is even with swapping around the digitizers. I'm thinking that somehow all of these share something similar. All i can think of is me putting them together.
Any idea on what they share?
Just wondering if you ever fixed the problem or got it figured out to some extent?
Same thing is happening on my phone ever since I replaced the screen/digitizer. Took it back apart and cleaned all the ribbon connections and the problem is still there. Thinking it might be a grounding issue possibly since it seems like it goes away (most the time) after I vigorously squeeze the bottom of the phone, by the trackpad and capacitive buttons. But it invariably comes back, and seems to be worse when plugged in to the charger for whatever reason.
Also, since you've also taken apart and reassembled your phone, have you had an issue with the trackpad not sitting flush with the screen? No matter how I reassemble everything, it seems like my trackpad is recessed now and it's even worse when I use the little rubber gasket that was on there originally...
I haven't been able to determine what the problem is, but mine seems exactly like yours. When charging I pretty much can't use my phone random touches everywhere, or it doesn't fully reconize my touch. I just took my INC all the way apart and cleaned everything connections and all. I read somewhere it could be a dirty optical pad so cleaned that good too. Just powered on *Fingers Crossed*
odlay75 said:
I haven't been able to determine what the problem is, but mine seems exactly like yours. When charging I pretty much can't use my phone random touches everywhere, or it doesn't fully reconize my touch. I just took my INC all the way apart and cleaned everything connections and all. I read somewhere it could be a dirty optical pad so cleaned that good too. Just powered on *Fingers Crossed*
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Click to collapse
when you replaced it did you make sure you the ground straps where connected to the screw holes with nothing interfering? i pulled my LCD out of my screen on my dev phone because there was dust under the glass. after i put it all back together i was getting the same thing descried in the OP. so i took it apart and noticed that the thread lock used on the screws pealed off and on the ground straps. so i cleaned them up with Alcohol and a cotton swab. put it back together and haven't had it happen sense.
synisterwolf said:
when you replaced it did you make sure you the ground straps where connected to the screw holes with nothing interfering? i pulled my LCD out of my screen on my dev phone because there was dust under the glass. after i put it all back together i was getting the same thing descried in the OP. so i took it apart and noticed that the thread lock used on the screws pealed off and on the ground straps. so i cleaned them up with Alcohol and a cotton swab. put it back together and haven't had it happen sense.
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Click to collapse
When you say ground straps, are you referring to the two tiny screws that are near the top of the actual screen (after you've taken of the red battery compartment thing and the board)? I remember there being these little metal mesh strips that were in those screw holes that I think I promptly lost after taking the screws out..
k_nivesout said:
When you say ground straps, are you referring to the two tiny screws that are near the top of the actual screen (after you've taken of the red battery compartment thing and the board)? I remember there being these little metal mesh strips that were in those screw holes that I think I promptly lost after taking the screws out..
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yes. after removing the board on the back of the LCD screen there are 2 straps on the top that ground the screen to the frame. the screws had blue thread lock on the bottom. sometimes it will come off when you remove them.
basically make the head of the screw is clean and the metal straps are clean to make a good enough ground.
EDIT:
if you lost the screws you can try to pick up an eye glass repair kit. the ones used for glasses. they have small phillip screws that might work. you can normally buy the kit at a $.99 store.
I was wondering what the screws were for since it didn't look like they were actually holding anything in.. I didn't lose the screws, just the grounding material, which were those metal mesh adhesive strips. Trying to think of what I may be able to replace that with, maybe just some aluminum foil or something? There has to be some better material, I'm just not thinking of it..
k_nivesout said:
I was wondering what the screws were for since it didn't look like they were actually holding anything in.. I didn't lose the screws, just the grounding material, which were those metal mesh adhesive strips. Trying to think of what I may be able to replace that with, maybe just some aluminum foil or something? There has to be some better material, I'm just not thinking of it..
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Click to collapse
the straps fell off? (the straps are on the back and should be soldered to the drivers on the rear of the screen) i wouldn't recommend aluminum foil. try going to a store like radio shack or any do it your self electronic store and see if the can sell you some fine wire mesh.
Hm, I think we must be thinking of different things, cause these were just tiny little pieces of wires mesh that those screws held into place that were stuck to the metal on the back of the screen. Might have to open it up again and snap a picture or two to clarify if I can't find any other grounding issues, etc.
k_nivesout said:
Hm, I think we must be thinking of different things, cause these were just tiny little pieces of wires mesh that those screws held into place that were stuck to the metal on the back of the screen. Might have to open it up again and snap a picture or two to clarify if I can't find any other grounding issues, etc.
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Click to collapse
yea thats what im talking about. the 2 straps on top that are screwed in. they need to have a clean connection from the strap to the screw heads that it sits on after screwing them down.
Well I'll be damned, I think that was it! I "borrowed" a little bit of that wire mesh stuff from the back of the screen (it's holding down the screen's ribbon connector and covering other things) and put the screws back in holding little strips of the mesh down and stuck to the metal on the back of the screen. I haven't been using my phone much but the phantom touches and vibration haven't come back, crossing my fingers that it stays this way!
Thanks again synisterwolf, mashed your thanks button a bit
To the OP: I'd highly recommend making sure the screen is grounded properly with those two tiny screws towards the top of the screen.
Thanks for the info guys! Does anyone have a pic of this mesh stuff. I think my old screen had it, but the new screen does not..
odlay75 said:
Thanks for the info guys! Does anyone have a pic of this mesh stuff. I think my old screen had it, but the new screen does not..
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Click to collapse
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lr4uy9yKqIE
3:30 MARK is what we are talking about.
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k_nivesout said:
Well I'll be damned, I think that was it! I "borrowed" a little bit of that wire mesh stuff from the back of the screen (it's holding down the screen's ribbon connector and covering other things) and put the screws back in holding little strips of the mesh down and stuck to the metal on the back of the screen. I haven't been using my phone much but the phantom touches and vibration haven't come back, crossing my fingers that it stays this way!
Thanks again synisterwolf, mashed your thanks button a bit
To the OP: I'd highly recommend making sure the screen is grounded properly with those two tiny screws towards the top of the screen.
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Click to collapse
you are welcome. glad i could help and glad i took mine apart. now i can see how it all works. it was hard with my big hands but it was fun.
In addition to the constant influx of iPods and iPhones friends, family, and coworkers bring me to fix, I've taken apart a few different Xperia PLAY phones more times than I can count, so I thought I'd give a few "pro tips" to people who need to know the ins and outs of it. This isn't a disassembly, assembly, or even a repair guide, it's just the stuff I think those guys missed.
First, don't use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the front glass + digitizer. The plastic frame wrinkles and melts readily, particularly right under the face buttons.
Second, make sure you transfer as much as possible when you replace the frame. Replacement frames usually do not include the rubber shroud for the proximity sensor and it will not work right without it. I had one phone that seemingly worked fine until the screen protector peeled off while inserting in a pocket and then no amount of clear tape, screen protectors, or Sharpie-marking would fix it. A salvaged rubber shroud fixed it right up. Some replacement frames have a film-backed adhesive for holding it there and some don't. It probably depends on when they were yanked from the manufacturing line, assuming that they are original parts and not replica parts. You also want to make sure you transfer are the inner dust gasket that goes underneath the frame/glass or else things will be filling up with dust quickly. There is no speaker grill and the foam around it does not stop intrusion. A salvaged frame/glass adhesive is likely to allow dust in unless you didn't have to pick much out of it when swapping (usually glass shards). There are also little metallic grounding foam rectangles crammed in the corners that only one replacement frame I've seen has ever included (was probably salvage though listed as "new"). They probably aren't necessary and I've gone long periods without them, but why wonder if a static charge build up is responsible for your erratic touch screen?
Next, be extremely careful separating the glass from the frame. I've managed to crack good ones even going slowly and leaving gaps filled with picks and pry tools. Heat didn't seem to help much and, as mentioned earlier, is discouraged. Cleaning the screen after man-handling it isn't always easy, but don't avoid touching the back side because you will probably need the area to spread the pressure and avoid a crack. I use a levered "mini suction cup" from Harbor Freight on the top side and as many fingers as spread out as I can on the bottom, but the suction cup is near useless on a cracked screen (even tape-coated). I do suggest covering a shattered screen with tape to hold all the bits together but you are still going to have a hard time cleaning the adhesive up. You can always buy a frame with digitizer pre-installed but I know a lot of you want to buy complete replacement housings instead and it's kind of a waste, but at least you don't need to worry about that adhesive (still: don't forget to transfer the other bits!).
The digitizer parts I've salvaged from phones had higher version numbers than the ones I've seen sold as replacement parts and seemed to be more erratic so I prefer salvaged ones. There can be other problems as well. The flat flex cable from the digitizer is supposed to have an adhesive backing that holds it still where it connects to the tiny cable from the earpiece. Replacements often do not have it, which is yet ANOTHER reason to prefer salvage parts. It may not seem like such a big deal considering that there is a black plastic piece screwed down over it to protect it from getting caught in the mechanism, but the connector does not hold on very well and the phone will not boot if it is slightly out of alignment. If you reassemble it and just get a buzz from the vibration motor with no display and no other sign of booting, check this connection (same thing if the digitizer suddenly stops registering touch). Even a small drop/impact will cause it to happen again, so I recommend securing it with precisely cut tape or hot glue (stay clear of the sliding rails).
Now, keep it clean while you work or you will be staring at that contaminate or thumbprint for a long time. I usually wear fresh latex gloves when working on the glass but it doesn't do much good if you keep transferring oils from the rest of the phone. Wash your hands right before you start and clean the outside of the phone. Before you begin, try just touch a used dish soap dispenser with a damp thumb and run all along to screen except the buttons and earpiece. Do it again with just the damp thumb (dilutes the soap that remained from the first pass) and wipe it with a clean lint-free cloth. Your own clean and dry fingertips/palm should readily absorb any remaining streaks/oils. Be sure to wipe down the rest of the phone too and don't transfer it back to the glass. Once inside I use layer after layer of clear tape to lift gunk from the earpiece (no mesh, remember?). Put on new gloves before you start handling the glass after disassembly, even if you were wearing some for disassembly. To clean the back of the glass I put the adhesive between wax paper while I clean using lint-free cloths, 90+% alcohol, and acetone. For the LCD, use tape to lift most contaminates and resort to alcohol + lint-free cloth if that doesn't work. It doesn't need to be too perfect, especially if scratched from cracked glass. Most imperfections only show when it's off.
Hot glue is great for removing adhesive screw covers without showing pick marks or other signs of tampering but you have to make sure to leave an edge exposed so that you aren't just picking it out of the glue instead. I've been getting mine off cleanly without any tricks like this but it came in handy when I was first disassembling one and there weren't any guides to tell me that there weren't screws under the large silver strip (just covers rivets or injections mold points, IIRC). It's also good for sealing off water sensors, like the one you see through a hole under the battery door. There's another one by the contacts on the battery itself, one by the microphone under the gamepad, and one in the opposite corner under the PS Certified logo. I had an AT&T rep tell me that a brand new phone had a tripped water sensor (LIES!) so I would look for ways to do this with most any new phone.
I can't count how many times I've left the power button out while reassembling. It's not usually that I forgot: It's that it falls out while snapping the back on. I've left the face buttons out a few times too.
My first one had the cable folded wrong after reassembly. It still worked fine for a couple years but did eventually require replacement. Once it folds wrong it'll probably stay that way even after correct reassembly (like mine did). Do not try to attach it to the main PCB using a spudger, butterknife, or whatever to awkwardly push the connector down with everything pulled apart. The only thing you need to do is to slide the cable into the phone's closed position, align the plastic posts on the connector with the corresponding holes on the PCB, and then push down on the PCB until it snaps. I'm sure I tried this first back then but chickened out because the connector didn't snap very easily but that is how you are supposed to do it.
Before I talk about the replacing the slide cable, I want to express my annoyance at all the eBay/YouTube/iFixIt.com people who call it a "flex cable." I don't like the term flex cable because generally ALL cables should be flexible and that doesn't distinguish what it is well enough for people looking for the part. Technically, it's a flat cable or a slide cable, though I wouldn't object to it being called a flex PCB (flex PCBs usually have components other than just connectors like a rigid printed circuit board would). "Flex cable" is silly, redundant, and does not describe anything more specific than just "cable." To complicate matters, there are several actual flex PCBs in this phone to distinguish from when ordering the part. Why did so many people start calling flex PCBs "flex cables" in the first place?! In our case the sliding portion is a *flat* cable, so I can see where "cable" was introduced from, but people say "flex cable" for any flat cable made like a flex PCB these days whether fixed or sliding. At least you know now that you are probably going to have to use the incorrect terminology to find what you want online and sift through many useless results.
*whew*
Now, slide cable replacement is easier than it would seem but intact removal isn't and brand new replacements can be defective. It was a troubleshooting nightmare when I encountered a defective one because I replaced the LCD and glass + digitizer at the same time and suspected/checked everything else first, even taking apart my personal phone multiple times to test parts. The plastic part of the connector on the PCB end must be transferred to the new cable and the old one will not reliably stick back down to it even if you did not contaminate the adhesive. I successfully transferred a cable from a water-damaged phone to my personal phone before fixing up the water-damaged donor phone with a new one, so the adhesive on the salvaged part was weak and I didn't realize how hard it was to remove intact until later. When separating the defective new one there was seemingly no place to pry on one end other than underneath the part where the earpiece/camera connector was located. This broke the side of the connector that holds the locking flap though I was still able to use/lock it. I claimed warranty on the defective part anyway because the connector was not needed for proving the cable was defective (a functional cable works with that connector populated or not). This new part was slightly different from those found originally installed in the phone (different colored plastic connectors and such). The second new one I ordered from elsewhere had double-sided adhesive down the middle, a foil quality control sticker, and the same odd connector colors. I didn't think there was a market for replica parts on this phone but it does seem like more than simple factory revisions. Anyway, removing it involves removing metallic tape then lifting a plate that is still adhered underneath with amber-colored Kapton tape. You can see it from the slide mechanism below. I pinch the plate from above and below with two fingers and lift, gradually peeling the tape which I then fold inside and secure to avoid contaminating the adhesive. The cable has a plastic band across it that fits between fingers on this plate. When secured, this isolates the end with multiple connectors from the movement of the sliding portion, so make sure this is in place when reinstalling. It may be best to avoid removing the adhesive backing paper until after the plate and cable are securely taped back down with both the Kapton and metallic tape while the fingers are holding it in position. If you stick it down first and then secure the plate you may find it slightly too long or short to position inside the plate when securing it all back down. To thread the main connector through the slide board opening it may seem that it will only fit by folding the cable but DON'T! Coil it. Without flattening it, bend the connector 90-degrees over from the cable path and then adjust the angle until you have a coil-shape that you can work through with the connector sideways.
I ordered a "no useable parts" dummy phone just for the heck of it and, other than the Sony Ericsson logo on the fake battery door and maybe the stickers that cover the screws, they really don't have any salvageable parts. You can't swap any buttons, keys, springs, covers, etc into a real phone. The closest would be the face buttons. They will fit in a real phone, but they are too tall and put constant pressure on the PCB switches causing unintended key-presses (especially back and search buttons). The extra height easily protrudes out the top and is not the issue so filing them down vertically won't fix anything. I snipped some excess rubber to more closely match the design of the original buttons but it didn't help. I unscrewed the screw in the corner under the search key and unsnapped the bottom edge of the frame from the back/slide board and they work great until the phone inevitably snaps back together. I'd say they felt better then the original with the extra height (I can't stand how close they are to the screen). It's tolerable with ICS/JB's Navigation Bar (on-screen key functions), but I would rather salvage real buttons or pay too much for the eBay ones ($10-$20; very uncommon part; always sold with crap you probably don't need).
I have yet to find a replacement battery door that includes the rubber trim around the speakers and the foam piece surrounding the rear/noise-canceling microphone. I've ordered a few auctions that show them in the pictures but they always arrive bare. You can transfer them with a razor but it likely won't be perfect. Without them the speaker audio will probably echo around inside the battery compartment and make its way into the mic, though people usually don't notice it. Painting on some Plasti-Dip might do the trick, so try that if it bothers you.
Unlike an iPhone with a million different screws, you don't have to keep track of what goes where and everything is easily accessible. Bare minimum to take it all apart: Some fingernails, a T5 or T6 (pick one) and a PH0, 00, or 000 Phillips (pick one). There don't seem to be any tamper/warranty seals and the only concealed screws are the two obvious ones underneath metallic cover stickers on the display/slide board. There are no screws under tape or labels and no water sensors covering them either. All 6 Phillips screws are the same size but you'll likely want to keep the two with adhesive in their original holes to re-use the covers (adhesive usually remains on the screw instead of the cover). There are only two different Torx screw types but it's obvious what goes where (6 stubby flat ones on the top and bottom, 7 long thin ones around the battery area).
There are bits and bobs taped to and embedded in the rear housing including antenna/RF stuff, some more obvious that others. I've compared and the R800x is very different from the R800at even though the plastic frame looks really similar (R800x has a blocked SIM slot, of course). IMO, any housing swap should be limited to the front frame, the gamepad, and the battery door (only colored parts anyway). If you nicked your chrome, hopefully it was on a button or something that can be swapped (springs are a pain). It may be possible to transfer everything but I wouldn't trust it after all the peeling and picking. The one report I've seen of someone transferring between a GSM/CDMA models seems blissfully unaware of the metal wire behind the volume keys on the CDMA model that isn't there on GSM (at least it's not there on my R800at GSM).
That's all my advice for now. If you are having any trouble, let me know.
Excellent guide, thank you for taking the time to type this up. I think a mod should sticky this.....
Awesome guide! Thanks much for it!
@ozzmanj1 Agree, so more people will notice it.
Thanks for help buddy!!!
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Arevyn said:
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
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Click to collapse
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Arevyn said:
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am color blind and never took notice but I switched LCD between R800i, R800x, and R800at and they were all compatible. They have no reason to make anything in that half of the phone different, so they don't.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
narflynn619 said:
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
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Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
matfai said:
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
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Click to collapse
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
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Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
matfai said:
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
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Click to collapse
In my experience, cable alignment has also been an all or nothing issue so you probably need to replace the digitizer. It couldn't hurt to realign the digitizer cable first just in case it can avoid an unnecessary expense. That fixed a Cubot C9+ I worked on Saturday (digitizer not working at all) but not the iPhone 4S I worked on yesterday (bottom row of digitizer not responding).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
stuck in safe mode after replace slider cable(flex)
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
docsmiley said:
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Bakisha said:
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
docsmiley said:
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have received a defective flex cable before so it's possible you have also. In my case it didn't work at all (no picture).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Thanks for your replies I'll see if I can get it replaced
Sendt fra min Galaxy S4 med Tapatalk
slide flex replacement
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
dashu31 said:
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are the same. I have also switched then between a "4G" R800at and a R800x. I have also received bad digitizer flex cables that were new. It really is luck of the draw. A lot of replacement parts on eBay are factory seconds, which may have been removed from the production line for good reason. That's why I always order parts in sets of two for anything I know I will need in the future and I always test both. For example, recently I got two iPhone 4S screens and one had the frame installed upside down. Before that I ordered two replacement iPhone 4 30-pin dock replacements and one had a defective microphone. Before that I ordered two iPod touch 2G digitizer/frame assemblies and one didn't work along the left side.
Here I am identifying a couple bad iPhone displays from a lot:
http://youtu.be/TbxzCiGhwPM
I didn't own an iPhone so I had to test them all with the phone the first customer provided.
Edit: Oh! And make sure the problem is not with the digitizer connection under the black plastic cover. Mine works it's way loose all the time and needs to be secured with tape. Even when inserted fully straight and locked, I put it together and find it not working or the display black until I take it back apart and reseat it. It will twist slightly and even the slightest angle affects the connection.
Today I finally decided to replace the broken screen on my Nexus 7. Everything went well and according to plan, and when turning on the device I noticed it was working fine. However, upon closer inspection it turned out that one thin line on my screen isn't working. It's preventing me from doing SwiftKey flow, and when I tried drawing in Evernote I could see it was skipping over that part of the screen.
What could be the cause of this? I can't rule out that it's the screen part itself, but could it be more likely that I somehow damaged the LCD flex cable? I tried detaching and reattaching cables, so I have doublechecked that. I guess my question is mostly, how useful is it to try and replace the cable? Thanks in advance!
wi11ow said:
Today I finally decided to replace the broken screen on my Nexus 7. Everything went well and according to plan, and when turning on the device I noticed it was working fine. However, upon closer inspection it turned out that one thin line on my screen isn't working. It's preventing me from doing SwiftKey flow, and when I tried drawing in Evernote I could see it was skipping over that part of the screen.
What could be the cause of this? I can't rule out that it's the screen part itself, but could it be more likely that I somehow damaged the LCD flex cable? I tried detaching and reattaching cables, so I have doublechecked that. I guess my question is mostly, how useful is it to try and replace the cable? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you replace the combo lcd/digitizer, or just the digitizer? In the latter case, you're lucky to have just a thin dead band; usually,1/3 of the screen would be unusable. In the former case, if the bezel is bent, however slightly, or there is some glue residue from the old screen on the bezel that causes the new screen to lie on an uneven surface, it would happen. I've experimented enough times to know the bezel has to be absolutely clean of everything and the surface must be 100% smooth and even. If you used strong tape on the new screen, your best bet is the multi-fix touch, as removing it would in most cases damage it.
graphdarnell said:
Did you replace the combo lcd/digitizer, or just the digitizer? In the latter case, you're lucky to have just a thin dead band; usually,1/3 of the screen would be unusable. In the former case, if the bezel is bent, however slightly, or there is some glue residue from the old screen on the bezel that causes the new screen to lie on an uneven surface, it would happen. I've experimented enough times to know the bezel has to be absolutely clean of everything and the surface must be 100% smooth and even. If you used strong tape on the new screen, your best bet is the multi-fix touch, as removing it would in most cases damage it.
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Click to collapse
I replaced the screen + digitizer. I looked at the bezel (luckily the tape I used wasn't that strong so the screen was still detachable) and I cleaned it up thoroughly. There were indeed some glue residues left. However, it was no use, the screen still fails in the same locations. I had high hopes this might be the cause, but apparently not.
I highly doubt the bezel was bent, because I was very careful with it. I will try out the multi-fix touch option, but I'll do that tomorrow as I'm quite tired now. Thanks for all the suggestions!
wi11ow said:
I replaced the screen + digitizer. I looked at the bezel (luckily the tape I used wasn't that strong so the screen was still detachable) and I cleaned it up thoroughly. There were indeed some glue residues left. However, it was no use, the screen still fails in the same locations. I had high hopes this might be the cause, but apparently not.
I highly doubt the bezel was bent, because I was very careful with it. I will try out the multi-fix touch option, but I'll do that tomorrow as I'm quite tired now. Thanks for all the suggestions!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't know if you're familiar with the mechanics of the touchscreen, so I'm adding this for the sake of completeness. Lots of people would post problems and when you try to help, would snap back: "I already tried this and that and other things..." So if you already know, forget the rest.
I've found Yet Another Multi-touch Test (YAMTT) of tremendous help in diagnosing. When you switch from one firmware to another, YAMTT allows you to pinpoint exactly where touches do not register. If the dead band remains consistent, it's probably the screen itself. However, touch detection sometimes varies with the speed at which you touch. I've seen touches missing in some areas, which would register on a second or third or fourth pass. So, go slow in those areas, and back and forth to make sure they're really dead. Tedious process indeed, since you have around 30 variants to play with.
graphdarnell said:
Don't know if you're familiar with the mechanics of the touchscreen, so I'm adding this for the sake of completeness. Lots of people would post problems and when you try to help, would snap back: "I already tried this and that and other things..." So if you already know, forget the rest.
I've found Yet Another Multi-touch Test (YAMTT) of tremendous help in diagnosing. When you switch from one firmware to another, YAMTT allows you to pinpoint exactly where touches do not register. If the dead band remains consistent, it's probably the screen itself. However, touch detection sometimes varies with the speed at which you touch. I've seen touches missing in some areas, which would register on a second or third or fourth pass. So, go slow in those areas, and back and forth to make sure they're really dead. Tedious process indeed, since you have around 30 variants to play with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know about the mechanics of the touchscreen, so all of this is helping me
I took a look at that tool, and I posted the result of drawing on imgur: paste "oyIt3bg" after imgur.com (I'm apparently still too 'new' to post links, sorry about that). It is clearly one band, very consistent. I think I should probably talk to the shop I got it from and ask for a replacement. Which sucks, because this particular parts took 3 weeks to even get here. Anyhow, glad I know what the problem is now. Again, thanks for all your help, I appreciate it
Hello fellow dutchie,
I have experienced this problem on my Nexus 4, and after having replaced the LCD+digitizer I also had issues with touch responsiveness in exactly the same areas. As silly as it would sound beforehand, it doesn't seem to be the screen or digitizer. Best... to give up.
EDIT- there are two different types of tape that holds the battery in. There is no obvious way to tell which type your phone has (to my knowledge). One has foam double sided tape, the other is some kind of thin & very strong adhesive tape. If your phone is the latter, you'll need to be VERY careful when trying to take it out.
I would suggest applying a lot of heat to the front of the phone screen - this should transfer to the tape behind the screen, and make it much easier to remove. If you damage your battery it'll cost approximately $45 USD + shipping to replace it. I haven't tried this method yet, but that is the only way I can see.
Ok, here is my guide / how-to for replacing the display assembly on the Asus Zenfone 2 ZE551ML.
Let me know if you have any questions. I would say it was fairly straight forward - I have not done this before on any phone, and mine works well.
I've posted the full guide with pictures on Imgur here: http://imgur.com/a/KXTFV
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Compatible Replacement Part
The original screen has the following code stamped on the back of the display: "TL055VDXP34-00".
The first replacement display assembly (did not work) had the following code: "TLD55VVXP31-00".
The second replacement assembly (did work) had the following code: "TL055VDXP34-00".
On that basis, I would suggest that the first unit I received was an earlier model, and was the incorrect part. I assume that the replacement display assembly must be model TL055VDXP34-00.
Step 1
Remove back cover
Step 2
Remove screws in plastic panel
NOTE: Remember to remove the one next to the camera (this might be covered by a small sticker).
This cover should remove quite easily - if you can't lift it, count those screws! There should be 14. Again - check that one by the camera that is somewhat hidden.
NOTE These screws are actually the only screws which hold the phone together. Once these are out and the cover is up, the speaker unit will fall away from the phone.
Step 3
To remove the plastic panel pry it up at one end, and use a sharp blade to separate the double sided tape between the battery and the plastic panel.
NOTE: I removed the double sided tape completely when I put it back together. It doesn't seem to really be necessary.
Step 4
Remove the antenna cable, vibrate motor, and four other connections.
The three above the battery pop up away from the phone.
Step 5
To disconnect the flat cable at the bottom of the battery you need to first remove the yellow plastic sticker covering it. Next lift the white tab to release the cable, then gently pull the cable out towards the base of the phone.
Step 6
To remove the battery, gently pull up away from the phone. Once you have located the double sided tape holding it to the phone, you should use the sharp blade to separate it from the housing.
NOTE: Be gentle with the small metal tabs on the edge of the battery; these are quite flimsy and will bend if used to force the battery. I removed the double sided tape completely here too, and did not replace it.
Step 7
Once the battery is out you need to lift the copper sheet from the body of the phone, which is held in place with some mild adhesive. Use tweezers and lift from one corner gently, working your way slowly across the square piece.
Step 8
Lift the yellow plastic sticker, then disconnect the screen plug shown in the picture.
NOTE This is a connection for the display, and actually goes under the main unit in a right angle, then up and out a small slit at the top of the phone (shown in picture for step 16). This cable is part of the display assembly, and is being replaced entirely. If it is easier, you could actually cut this cable completely.
Step 9
There are four plastic retainers which fix the remaining unit to the body of the phone. Use a small amount of force on one side to pop this section out. Once this is freed, it should be simple to remove it completely.
Step 10
Once the internal pieces of the phone are removed, you'll need to detach the display cable (from step 8) from the body. This is held in place with some adhesive, and shouldn't be too hard to pry up.
NOTE: Your new display assembly will have some adhesive on the replacement cable - should be self explanatory when fixing this back on.
Step 11
To remove the display itself you'll need to apply heat. I had a heat gun - this makes it a lot easier ($20-$30 on eBay) but you could use a hair drier if you don't have a heat gun. For the sake of comparison - the heat gun took around 30 seconds to heat the display completely, which would take 3-5 minutes with a hair drier.
Once the adhesive behind the screen has been heated up, work your way around the edges of the screen with a sharp razor blade. The display will begin to separate from the housing.
Once mostly free, carefully lift the display cable through the hole in the top of the phone body. Again; you're replacing this cable completely, so don't worry too much about it.
Step 12
You will need to separate the speaker grill from the original display, clean the adhesive off, and attach it for the new screen. I found it easier to attach the grill to the actual phone body (rather than the display assembly).
Step 13
Because of the condition of the adhesive for the screen assembly, I decided to replace the adhesive completely. You could skip this step, but I figured it was worth cleaning it up.
To remove the existing adhesive I just used the sharp razor blade and worked my way around peeling it all off.
NOTE: This would be a good opportunity to 'test fit' the new screen (without adhesive) so you can see where the cables need to go. There is one which goes up behind the screen and through the middle of the phone, and another which goes through the top hole. The top one is a strange shape, and needs to go through sideways first.
Step 14
I used the 3M double sided adhesive tape to go around the edge of the new screen assembly.
NOTE: The replacement adhesive I used was 3M double sided adhesive tape (2mm) - the tape was around $10 from a mobile phone repair supplies store. The tape was too wide and not thick enough, so I doubled it over. It fit perfectly once I did that. Unless you can find thicker double sided tape which is closer to the original adhesive, I would recommend this approach.
Step 15
Once the adhesive is all laid out on the phone, put the screen assembly on. I started from the top and slide the top cable through the hole, then slowly worked my way down to the bottom.
NOTE: I'd suggest you don't press too hard on the adhesive until you are sure that both cables are through to the back, and that the screen is sitting well in the body.
Step 16
Looking at the phone from the back, remove the adhesive backing from the display cable and carefully position the cable between the four black markers.
Step 17
After the new screen is fixed in, start the re-assembly. This is effectively the same as disassembly, but in reverse. There were only a couple of parts that I'd make note of:
a) Keep an eye on the display cable that comes in through the top. Mine got caught on the double sided tape, and needed to be pulled through.
b) You will need to use a little bit of force to mount the processor unit between the four plastic clips. Be careful when doing this. (shown in step 9)
c) I completely removed the double sided tape from under the battery and under the plastic case. I figured that if I need to go back into the phone, I wouldn't want to deal with the tape again. I'm glad I did, because the first screen was a dud.
d) If you lose any of the yellow plastic cable stickers, you can borrow a piece from your old display assembly.
Additional pictures:
Are those pictures too big? Someone let me know, I'll resize them.
thanks for the how-to!
i just have one question... where did u buy the screen with that exact code? all i've found is the one that's not working with u
Added to index, thanks for your work!
MegyK said:
thanks for the how-to!
i just have one question... where did u buy the screen with that exact code? all i've found is the one that's not working with u
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the one I bought http://r.ebay.com/fCPlmR
I suppose all the different versions might be my problem. My original screen is manufactured by AUO and is labeled as H546DAN03.4 MP1.0. So far I've gotten three replacements. Two with the XP31 code and one with the XP34. First XP31 only the backlight worked. Second touch screen didn't work. XP34 is acting the same as second XP31. Three attempts later I'm in the same boat. Google search brought up what appears to be an older version of the screen only. Now I'm thinking of sending it to Asus, if they'll still touch it, or call it a loss and buy myself a new phone. It still doesn't explain why the touch screen worked on the first but not the other two though.
alexjez05 said:
I suppose all the different versions might be my problem. My original screen is manufactured by AUO and is labeled as H546DAN03.4 MP1.0. So far I've gotten three replacements. Two with the XP31 code and one with the XP34. First XP31 only the backlight worked. Second touch screen didn't work. XP34 is acting the same as second XP31. Three attempts later I'm in the same boat. Google search brought up what appears to be an older version of the screen only. Now I'm thinking of sending it to Asus, if they'll still touch it, or call it a loss and buy myself a new phone. It still doesn't explain why the touch screen worked on the first but not the other two though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The nature of electronics means that it's entirely possible you damaged something in the process. I guess that's part of the risk you take when you go about a DIY repair.
Might be worth double checking all of those connections to make sure that you got them all plugged in.
Also, double check that the phone is charged?
alexjez05 said:
I suppose all the different versions might be my problem. My original screen is manufactured by AUO and is labeled as H546DAN03.4 MP1.0. So far I've gotten three replacements. Two with the XP31 code and one with the XP34. First XP31 only the backlight worked. Second touch screen didn't work. XP34 is acting the same as second XP31. Three attempts later I'm in the same boat. Google search brought up what appears to be an older version of the screen only. Now I'm thinking of sending it to Asus, if they'll still touch it, or call it a loss and buy myself a new phone. It still doesn't explain why the touch screen worked on the first but not the other two though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
make sure you slide in the connector on the top left (i think CON2001)
Excellent write up.. Thanks
Good work and excellent write up.
Help needed please.
Having problems after replacing the touch screen digitizer. Home Key, Return Key and Recent Applications keys not working. I am attaching a picture of the Screen Touch Test. The lower portion of display is not working and Home Screen and Navigation buttons are unresponsive
loveerslane said:
Having problems after replacing the touch screen digitizer. Home Key, Return Key and Recent Applications keys not working. I am attaching a picture of the Screen Touch Test. The lower portion of display is not working and Home Screen and Navigation buttons are unresponsive
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Almost certain that's caused by a loose cable - had a similar issue with mine. Open it up, check the cables are seated properly.
I have an issue now after replacing the screen where it says "Camera failed to launch. Please reboot." Did you ever see this, or better yet know of a solution. The connectors to the camera are ok as are all other connectors.
Very thanks
i used some rubbing alcohol to loosen up the adhesive for the battery. I lifted up one side of the battery and put a few drops of rubbing alcohol onto the adhesive. it worked perfectly to weaken the adhesive and i was able to pull the battery up without damaging the battery.
that was probably the hardest part of the repair.
I have a ZE551ML, i got the XP31 screen, and at first the touch did not work.
I double checked the cable from the screen to the main board.
Turned out there was tape on it. Moved the tape, reassembled, and the screen worked.
Details:
wisdomous.ca/BLOG/Asus_Zenfone2_screen_replacement_ZE551ML.htm
l
i have zenfone 2 one sim card slot not proper working
sunil9327 said:
i have zenfone 2 one sim card slot not proper working
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also have a similar problem after finally managing to get one screen working properly;
After changing two screens without being able to get touch to work I had to go back to my old, and seriously broken, screen - which still worked every time I remounted it
However, in a last move of desperation I checked the cable connections, cleaned them off just in case and especially wedging the tiny flat cable into its slot extra hard and deep... and at the second go, it just booted up as usual - with touch fully working (!!!)
Now almost all is well again, even though my old and new screen have completely different numbers...?
So maybe, what can sometimes be needed is to really shove the tiny flat cable from the screen (connects on the top left of the mainboard) into its slot and to boot and reboot more than twice to get touch active...?
On another note, for my personal sake, the SD-card slot seems to be malfunctioning, and if I have an SD mounted the phone reboots itself at some point and runs incredibly hot. So obviously I leave it out. However, as much as I wanted it to be due to the double sided flat cable (with SIM1/2 and SD slot) running across the battery between the mainboard and the speaker/usb-board, it seems that the actual connection on the mainboard has been damaged and probably needs to be replaced. But after extensive searching online I cannot find a single thing. I work in electronic manufacturing and would in theory easily be able to solder a new one in place.
Does anyone know what this is called?
PS. Maybe this last part should go into another thread, but the first paragraphs are on topic, I believe (and can maybe help someone...?)
Having some issues with it
I'm having problems with the touch screen. It started to be unresponsive some days after I replaced it, but it didn't notice it at the beginning because the problem wasn't serious. However, the following days it started to be always less responsive, and now the top part of the screen it doesn't response at all. Inexplicably, sometimes the touch screen works perfectly for some minutes, and then becomes totally unresponsive.
The software is up to date. Have you any idea of what's happening?
Question: screen adhesive to be purchased separately, or does it come with the screen? Thanks!