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Hi,
a while ago, I cracked my Uni's LCD. So I ordered a new one including the digitizer, opened my Uni and swithched the displays. Now at times, the touch screen wouldn't work at all - unless I tap the upper left corner (the start button; in portrait mode) or the lower left corner (the left button or slightly above it; in landscape). After that, tapping everywhere works normally. Does anyone have an idea what this could be caused by or how to solve it?
Thanks in advance!
I'd make sure your contacts are very clean. If you think maybe they're not, then take out and clean contacts with dry cloth or contact cleaner and re-insert.
Also, make sure there's no debris around screen. That nothing is pressing on digitiser anywhere else that gives false postive for it.
enigma may be able to help you better, I think she's more accustomed to the HW
Generally, all touch problems are associated with a digitizer. Without actually seeing your device I assume your digitizer is faulty and the problem may be either improper adhesion or the soldering joint improperly formed. Adhesion problem may be resolved by warming the screen with a blowdryer, no need to get it hot, just slightly warm all over and smooth with a soft cloth as if you are applying a screen protector, it loosens the special sticky gel that attaches the digitizer to the LCD and usually helps in cases where sensitivity is sporadic or screen calibration returns wrong response. Check for any bubbling, although not seen when the screen is viewed directly, some may be noted at the angle.
However, in your case there are certain points that need to be pressed in order for it to work, so I take it, the screen works most of the time and the problem is intermittent, the corners that need to be pressed might be the ones where adhesion is not up to scratch.
Try re-assembly, if all fails - contact the screen supplier, faults can happen, especially in non-OEM parts.
Do keep us updated if you find the solution, I am sure all members can benefit.
Problem solved
Well over time, the situation changed so that the touch screen didn't work at all, unless I was pressing one spot above the LCD fairly hardly, at which time it worked without problems. Once I stopped presing the spot, it stopped working again.
So I tried opening the Uni and disconnecting and reconnecting the LCD FPC (which was located just under the spot that needed to be pressed), which seems to have solved the problem
I replaced my digitizer on my inc and now it will randomly have touches on the screen. I have no idea why this is happening. I have tried two different digitizers with the same problem. It gets worse, i have tried the first digitizer i got on a second phone and this phone has the same problem.
I am running cyanogenmod and have "show touch" turned on so i can tell when its happening and where. The random touches appear to happen all on there own. I can not reproduce them. They do generally happen in about the same spot/spots each time. There are two general areas and when its registers a touch it moves a little, meaning when it touches it self it dances around a little. how ever if i turn off the screen and turn it back on it usually fixes the issue for a while.
Any idea what may be causing this problem and how to fix it?
Funny, I am having the same exact problem. Replaced my digitizer about a month ago and routinely get the "random touches" or just general unresponsiveness while using my phone.
I just assumed it was a side effect of my less then perfect installation but now I wonder if the digitizer itself is shoddy.
freestylesno said:
when it touches it self it dances around a little.
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Haha, excellent...
Have you considered the trackpad as the possible culprit? I know when my phone does similar things (swiping homescreens, moving the cursor when typing, etc) it's usually because the trackpad is dirty. I can't really think of why the digitizer (assuming it was properly replaced) would be causing that problem..
My buddy Bob had this happen to his Incredible too when he cracked his screen and had it replaced. He had it replaced 3x through Best Buy because each time it came back it would freak out like that. It turns out that something inside the phone was shorting out to the chassis, it would only happen when he squeezed/held the side of the phone. They ended up just giving him a new one after the third time.
brando56894 said:
My buddy Bob had this happen to his Incredible too when he cracked his screen and had it replaced. He had it replaced 3x through Best Buy because each time it came back it would freak out like that. It turns out that something inside the phone was shorting out to the chassis, it would only happen when he squeezed/held the side of the phone. They ended up just giving him a new one after the third time.
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Yeah im thinking it could be something shorting but no real way to test. But after many take apart's i seem to have got the screen to a point where it does it like all the time rendering the phone useless. i have put back on the original screen and am seeing if there are problems there. (i got a new plastic housing)
k_nivesout said:
Haha, excellent...
Have you considered the trackpad as the possible culprit? I know when my phone does similar things (swiping homescreens, moving the cursor when typing, etc) it's usually because the trackpad is dirty. I can't really think of why the digitizer (assuming it was properly replaced) would be causing that problem..
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Yeah i have disconnected the track pad and tried that with no change. and i tried disconnecting the light bar for a try and it would not boot. but i only tried once and i could have messed something else up when i put it back together.
i will report back with how the stock screen does and i'm thinking that will confirm that its the replacement digitizers .
Well the stock digitizer is doing the same thing. So its someting on the board, but i have tried it on two different phones.
So im up for trying just about any suggestion at this point. I have 2 phone and 3 digitizes doing this.
Mine does the same thing. I replaced just the screen awhile back.
I thought it might be related to maybe an upgraded screen family and the kernel not supporting it or something..
Like this post:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=15132827&postcount=3626
I usually take off the back and then pull the battery and snap the case back on. Seems to fix the problem until I mess with the battery again.
Anyone know how to see what touchscreen version you have?
ok so i have 3 phones(boards) 3 digitizers. 2 phones are the same hardware version i believe, one isn't. and all three experience this problem. This is even with swapping around the digitizers. I'm thinking that somehow all of these share something similar. All i can think of is me putting them together.
Any idea on what they share?
Just wondering if you ever fixed the problem or got it figured out to some extent?
Same thing is happening on my phone ever since I replaced the screen/digitizer. Took it back apart and cleaned all the ribbon connections and the problem is still there. Thinking it might be a grounding issue possibly since it seems like it goes away (most the time) after I vigorously squeeze the bottom of the phone, by the trackpad and capacitive buttons. But it invariably comes back, and seems to be worse when plugged in to the charger for whatever reason.
Also, since you've also taken apart and reassembled your phone, have you had an issue with the trackpad not sitting flush with the screen? No matter how I reassemble everything, it seems like my trackpad is recessed now and it's even worse when I use the little rubber gasket that was on there originally...
I haven't been able to determine what the problem is, but mine seems exactly like yours. When charging I pretty much can't use my phone random touches everywhere, or it doesn't fully reconize my touch. I just took my INC all the way apart and cleaned everything connections and all. I read somewhere it could be a dirty optical pad so cleaned that good too. Just powered on *Fingers Crossed*
odlay75 said:
I haven't been able to determine what the problem is, but mine seems exactly like yours. When charging I pretty much can't use my phone random touches everywhere, or it doesn't fully reconize my touch. I just took my INC all the way apart and cleaned everything connections and all. I read somewhere it could be a dirty optical pad so cleaned that good too. Just powered on *Fingers Crossed*
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when you replaced it did you make sure you the ground straps where connected to the screw holes with nothing interfering? i pulled my LCD out of my screen on my dev phone because there was dust under the glass. after i put it all back together i was getting the same thing descried in the OP. so i took it apart and noticed that the thread lock used on the screws pealed off and on the ground straps. so i cleaned them up with Alcohol and a cotton swab. put it back together and haven't had it happen sense.
synisterwolf said:
when you replaced it did you make sure you the ground straps where connected to the screw holes with nothing interfering? i pulled my LCD out of my screen on my dev phone because there was dust under the glass. after i put it all back together i was getting the same thing descried in the OP. so i took it apart and noticed that the thread lock used on the screws pealed off and on the ground straps. so i cleaned them up with Alcohol and a cotton swab. put it back together and haven't had it happen sense.
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When you say ground straps, are you referring to the two tiny screws that are near the top of the actual screen (after you've taken of the red battery compartment thing and the board)? I remember there being these little metal mesh strips that were in those screw holes that I think I promptly lost after taking the screws out..
k_nivesout said:
When you say ground straps, are you referring to the two tiny screws that are near the top of the actual screen (after you've taken of the red battery compartment thing and the board)? I remember there being these little metal mesh strips that were in those screw holes that I think I promptly lost after taking the screws out..
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yes. after removing the board on the back of the LCD screen there are 2 straps on the top that ground the screen to the frame. the screws had blue thread lock on the bottom. sometimes it will come off when you remove them.
basically make the head of the screw is clean and the metal straps are clean to make a good enough ground.
EDIT:
if you lost the screws you can try to pick up an eye glass repair kit. the ones used for glasses. they have small phillip screws that might work. you can normally buy the kit at a $.99 store.
I was wondering what the screws were for since it didn't look like they were actually holding anything in.. I didn't lose the screws, just the grounding material, which were those metal mesh adhesive strips. Trying to think of what I may be able to replace that with, maybe just some aluminum foil or something? There has to be some better material, I'm just not thinking of it..
k_nivesout said:
I was wondering what the screws were for since it didn't look like they were actually holding anything in.. I didn't lose the screws, just the grounding material, which were those metal mesh adhesive strips. Trying to think of what I may be able to replace that with, maybe just some aluminum foil or something? There has to be some better material, I'm just not thinking of it..
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the straps fell off? (the straps are on the back and should be soldered to the drivers on the rear of the screen) i wouldn't recommend aluminum foil. try going to a store like radio shack or any do it your self electronic store and see if the can sell you some fine wire mesh.
Hm, I think we must be thinking of different things, cause these were just tiny little pieces of wires mesh that those screws held into place that were stuck to the metal on the back of the screen. Might have to open it up again and snap a picture or two to clarify if I can't find any other grounding issues, etc.
k_nivesout said:
Hm, I think we must be thinking of different things, cause these were just tiny little pieces of wires mesh that those screws held into place that were stuck to the metal on the back of the screen. Might have to open it up again and snap a picture or two to clarify if I can't find any other grounding issues, etc.
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yea thats what im talking about. the 2 straps on top that are screwed in. they need to have a clean connection from the strap to the screw heads that it sits on after screwing them down.
Well I'll be damned, I think that was it! I "borrowed" a little bit of that wire mesh stuff from the back of the screen (it's holding down the screen's ribbon connector and covering other things) and put the screws back in holding little strips of the mesh down and stuck to the metal on the back of the screen. I haven't been using my phone much but the phantom touches and vibration haven't come back, crossing my fingers that it stays this way!
Thanks again synisterwolf, mashed your thanks button a bit
To the OP: I'd highly recommend making sure the screen is grounded properly with those two tiny screws towards the top of the screen.
Thanks for the info guys! Does anyone have a pic of this mesh stuff. I think my old screen had it, but the new screen does not..
odlay75 said:
Thanks for the info guys! Does anyone have a pic of this mesh stuff. I think my old screen had it, but the new screen does not..
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lr4uy9yKqIE
3:30 MARK is what we are talking about.
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k_nivesout said:
Well I'll be damned, I think that was it! I "borrowed" a little bit of that wire mesh stuff from the back of the screen (it's holding down the screen's ribbon connector and covering other things) and put the screws back in holding little strips of the mesh down and stuck to the metal on the back of the screen. I haven't been using my phone much but the phantom touches and vibration haven't come back, crossing my fingers that it stays this way!
Thanks again synisterwolf, mashed your thanks button a bit
To the OP: I'd highly recommend making sure the screen is grounded properly with those two tiny screws towards the top of the screen.
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you are welcome. glad i could help and glad i took mine apart. now i can see how it all works. it was hard with my big hands but it was fun.
In addition to the constant influx of iPods and iPhones friends, family, and coworkers bring me to fix, I've taken apart a few different Xperia PLAY phones more times than I can count, so I thought I'd give a few "pro tips" to people who need to know the ins and outs of it. This isn't a disassembly, assembly, or even a repair guide, it's just the stuff I think those guys missed.
First, don't use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the front glass + digitizer. The plastic frame wrinkles and melts readily, particularly right under the face buttons.
Second, make sure you transfer as much as possible when you replace the frame. Replacement frames usually do not include the rubber shroud for the proximity sensor and it will not work right without it. I had one phone that seemingly worked fine until the screen protector peeled off while inserting in a pocket and then no amount of clear tape, screen protectors, or Sharpie-marking would fix it. A salvaged rubber shroud fixed it right up. Some replacement frames have a film-backed adhesive for holding it there and some don't. It probably depends on when they were yanked from the manufacturing line, assuming that they are original parts and not replica parts. You also want to make sure you transfer are the inner dust gasket that goes underneath the frame/glass or else things will be filling up with dust quickly. There is no speaker grill and the foam around it does not stop intrusion. A salvaged frame/glass adhesive is likely to allow dust in unless you didn't have to pick much out of it when swapping (usually glass shards). There are also little metallic grounding foam rectangles crammed in the corners that only one replacement frame I've seen has ever included (was probably salvage though listed as "new"). They probably aren't necessary and I've gone long periods without them, but why wonder if a static charge build up is responsible for your erratic touch screen?
Next, be extremely careful separating the glass from the frame. I've managed to crack good ones even going slowly and leaving gaps filled with picks and pry tools. Heat didn't seem to help much and, as mentioned earlier, is discouraged. Cleaning the screen after man-handling it isn't always easy, but don't avoid touching the back side because you will probably need the area to spread the pressure and avoid a crack. I use a levered "mini suction cup" from Harbor Freight on the top side and as many fingers as spread out as I can on the bottom, but the suction cup is near useless on a cracked screen (even tape-coated). I do suggest covering a shattered screen with tape to hold all the bits together but you are still going to have a hard time cleaning the adhesive up. You can always buy a frame with digitizer pre-installed but I know a lot of you want to buy complete replacement housings instead and it's kind of a waste, but at least you don't need to worry about that adhesive (still: don't forget to transfer the other bits!).
The digitizer parts I've salvaged from phones had higher version numbers than the ones I've seen sold as replacement parts and seemed to be more erratic so I prefer salvaged ones. There can be other problems as well. The flat flex cable from the digitizer is supposed to have an adhesive backing that holds it still where it connects to the tiny cable from the earpiece. Replacements often do not have it, which is yet ANOTHER reason to prefer salvage parts. It may not seem like such a big deal considering that there is a black plastic piece screwed down over it to protect it from getting caught in the mechanism, but the connector does not hold on very well and the phone will not boot if it is slightly out of alignment. If you reassemble it and just get a buzz from the vibration motor with no display and no other sign of booting, check this connection (same thing if the digitizer suddenly stops registering touch). Even a small drop/impact will cause it to happen again, so I recommend securing it with precisely cut tape or hot glue (stay clear of the sliding rails).
Now, keep it clean while you work or you will be staring at that contaminate or thumbprint for a long time. I usually wear fresh latex gloves when working on the glass but it doesn't do much good if you keep transferring oils from the rest of the phone. Wash your hands right before you start and clean the outside of the phone. Before you begin, try just touch a used dish soap dispenser with a damp thumb and run all along to screen except the buttons and earpiece. Do it again with just the damp thumb (dilutes the soap that remained from the first pass) and wipe it with a clean lint-free cloth. Your own clean and dry fingertips/palm should readily absorb any remaining streaks/oils. Be sure to wipe down the rest of the phone too and don't transfer it back to the glass. Once inside I use layer after layer of clear tape to lift gunk from the earpiece (no mesh, remember?). Put on new gloves before you start handling the glass after disassembly, even if you were wearing some for disassembly. To clean the back of the glass I put the adhesive between wax paper while I clean using lint-free cloths, 90+% alcohol, and acetone. For the LCD, use tape to lift most contaminates and resort to alcohol + lint-free cloth if that doesn't work. It doesn't need to be too perfect, especially if scratched from cracked glass. Most imperfections only show when it's off.
Hot glue is great for removing adhesive screw covers without showing pick marks or other signs of tampering but you have to make sure to leave an edge exposed so that you aren't just picking it out of the glue instead. I've been getting mine off cleanly without any tricks like this but it came in handy when I was first disassembling one and there weren't any guides to tell me that there weren't screws under the large silver strip (just covers rivets or injections mold points, IIRC). It's also good for sealing off water sensors, like the one you see through a hole under the battery door. There's another one by the contacts on the battery itself, one by the microphone under the gamepad, and one in the opposite corner under the PS Certified logo. I had an AT&T rep tell me that a brand new phone had a tripped water sensor (LIES!) so I would look for ways to do this with most any new phone.
I can't count how many times I've left the power button out while reassembling. It's not usually that I forgot: It's that it falls out while snapping the back on. I've left the face buttons out a few times too.
My first one had the cable folded wrong after reassembly. It still worked fine for a couple years but did eventually require replacement. Once it folds wrong it'll probably stay that way even after correct reassembly (like mine did). Do not try to attach it to the main PCB using a spudger, butterknife, or whatever to awkwardly push the connector down with everything pulled apart. The only thing you need to do is to slide the cable into the phone's closed position, align the plastic posts on the connector with the corresponding holes on the PCB, and then push down on the PCB until it snaps. I'm sure I tried this first back then but chickened out because the connector didn't snap very easily but that is how you are supposed to do it.
Before I talk about the replacing the slide cable, I want to express my annoyance at all the eBay/YouTube/iFixIt.com people who call it a "flex cable." I don't like the term flex cable because generally ALL cables should be flexible and that doesn't distinguish what it is well enough for people looking for the part. Technically, it's a flat cable or a slide cable, though I wouldn't object to it being called a flex PCB (flex PCBs usually have components other than just connectors like a rigid printed circuit board would). "Flex cable" is silly, redundant, and does not describe anything more specific than just "cable." To complicate matters, there are several actual flex PCBs in this phone to distinguish from when ordering the part. Why did so many people start calling flex PCBs "flex cables" in the first place?! In our case the sliding portion is a *flat* cable, so I can see where "cable" was introduced from, but people say "flex cable" for any flat cable made like a flex PCB these days whether fixed or sliding. At least you know now that you are probably going to have to use the incorrect terminology to find what you want online and sift through many useless results.
*whew*
Now, slide cable replacement is easier than it would seem but intact removal isn't and brand new replacements can be defective. It was a troubleshooting nightmare when I encountered a defective one because I replaced the LCD and glass + digitizer at the same time and suspected/checked everything else first, even taking apart my personal phone multiple times to test parts. The plastic part of the connector on the PCB end must be transferred to the new cable and the old one will not reliably stick back down to it even if you did not contaminate the adhesive. I successfully transferred a cable from a water-damaged phone to my personal phone before fixing up the water-damaged donor phone with a new one, so the adhesive on the salvaged part was weak and I didn't realize how hard it was to remove intact until later. When separating the defective new one there was seemingly no place to pry on one end other than underneath the part where the earpiece/camera connector was located. This broke the side of the connector that holds the locking flap though I was still able to use/lock it. I claimed warranty on the defective part anyway because the connector was not needed for proving the cable was defective (a functional cable works with that connector populated or not). This new part was slightly different from those found originally installed in the phone (different colored plastic connectors and such). The second new one I ordered from elsewhere had double-sided adhesive down the middle, a foil quality control sticker, and the same odd connector colors. I didn't think there was a market for replica parts on this phone but it does seem like more than simple factory revisions. Anyway, removing it involves removing metallic tape then lifting a plate that is still adhered underneath with amber-colored Kapton tape. You can see it from the slide mechanism below. I pinch the plate from above and below with two fingers and lift, gradually peeling the tape which I then fold inside and secure to avoid contaminating the adhesive. The cable has a plastic band across it that fits between fingers on this plate. When secured, this isolates the end with multiple connectors from the movement of the sliding portion, so make sure this is in place when reinstalling. It may be best to avoid removing the adhesive backing paper until after the plate and cable are securely taped back down with both the Kapton and metallic tape while the fingers are holding it in position. If you stick it down first and then secure the plate you may find it slightly too long or short to position inside the plate when securing it all back down. To thread the main connector through the slide board opening it may seem that it will only fit by folding the cable but DON'T! Coil it. Without flattening it, bend the connector 90-degrees over from the cable path and then adjust the angle until you have a coil-shape that you can work through with the connector sideways.
I ordered a "no useable parts" dummy phone just for the heck of it and, other than the Sony Ericsson logo on the fake battery door and maybe the stickers that cover the screws, they really don't have any salvageable parts. You can't swap any buttons, keys, springs, covers, etc into a real phone. The closest would be the face buttons. They will fit in a real phone, but they are too tall and put constant pressure on the PCB switches causing unintended key-presses (especially back and search buttons). The extra height easily protrudes out the top and is not the issue so filing them down vertically won't fix anything. I snipped some excess rubber to more closely match the design of the original buttons but it didn't help. I unscrewed the screw in the corner under the search key and unsnapped the bottom edge of the frame from the back/slide board and they work great until the phone inevitably snaps back together. I'd say they felt better then the original with the extra height (I can't stand how close they are to the screen). It's tolerable with ICS/JB's Navigation Bar (on-screen key functions), but I would rather salvage real buttons or pay too much for the eBay ones ($10-$20; very uncommon part; always sold with crap you probably don't need).
I have yet to find a replacement battery door that includes the rubber trim around the speakers and the foam piece surrounding the rear/noise-canceling microphone. I've ordered a few auctions that show them in the pictures but they always arrive bare. You can transfer them with a razor but it likely won't be perfect. Without them the speaker audio will probably echo around inside the battery compartment and make its way into the mic, though people usually don't notice it. Painting on some Plasti-Dip might do the trick, so try that if it bothers you.
Unlike an iPhone with a million different screws, you don't have to keep track of what goes where and everything is easily accessible. Bare minimum to take it all apart: Some fingernails, a T5 or T6 (pick one) and a PH0, 00, or 000 Phillips (pick one). There don't seem to be any tamper/warranty seals and the only concealed screws are the two obvious ones underneath metallic cover stickers on the display/slide board. There are no screws under tape or labels and no water sensors covering them either. All 6 Phillips screws are the same size but you'll likely want to keep the two with adhesive in their original holes to re-use the covers (adhesive usually remains on the screw instead of the cover). There are only two different Torx screw types but it's obvious what goes where (6 stubby flat ones on the top and bottom, 7 long thin ones around the battery area).
There are bits and bobs taped to and embedded in the rear housing including antenna/RF stuff, some more obvious that others. I've compared and the R800x is very different from the R800at even though the plastic frame looks really similar (R800x has a blocked SIM slot, of course). IMO, any housing swap should be limited to the front frame, the gamepad, and the battery door (only colored parts anyway). If you nicked your chrome, hopefully it was on a button or something that can be swapped (springs are a pain). It may be possible to transfer everything but I wouldn't trust it after all the peeling and picking. The one report I've seen of someone transferring between a GSM/CDMA models seems blissfully unaware of the metal wire behind the volume keys on the CDMA model that isn't there on GSM (at least it's not there on my R800at GSM).
That's all my advice for now. If you are having any trouble, let me know.
Excellent guide, thank you for taking the time to type this up. I think a mod should sticky this.....
Awesome guide! Thanks much for it!
@ozzmanj1 Agree, so more people will notice it.
Thanks for help buddy!!!
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Arevyn said:
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
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Click to collapse
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
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Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Arevyn said:
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
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I am color blind and never took notice but I switched LCD between R800i, R800x, and R800at and they were all compatible. They have no reason to make anything in that half of the phone different, so they don't.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
narflynn619 said:
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
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Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
matfai said:
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
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If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
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Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
matfai said:
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
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In my experience, cable alignment has also been an all or nothing issue so you probably need to replace the digitizer. It couldn't hurt to realign the digitizer cable first just in case it can avoid an unnecessary expense. That fixed a Cubot C9+ I worked on Saturday (digitizer not working at all) but not the iPhone 4S I worked on yesterday (bottom row of digitizer not responding).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
stuck in safe mode after replace slider cable(flex)
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
docsmiley said:
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
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If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Bakisha said:
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
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Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
docsmiley said:
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
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I have received a defective flex cable before so it's possible you have also. In my case it didn't work at all (no picture).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Thanks for your replies I'll see if I can get it replaced
Sendt fra min Galaxy S4 med Tapatalk
slide flex replacement
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
dashu31 said:
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
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They are the same. I have also switched then between a "4G" R800at and a R800x. I have also received bad digitizer flex cables that were new. It really is luck of the draw. A lot of replacement parts on eBay are factory seconds, which may have been removed from the production line for good reason. That's why I always order parts in sets of two for anything I know I will need in the future and I always test both. For example, recently I got two iPhone 4S screens and one had the frame installed upside down. Before that I ordered two replacement iPhone 4 30-pin dock replacements and one had a defective microphone. Before that I ordered two iPod touch 2G digitizer/frame assemblies and one didn't work along the left side.
Here I am identifying a couple bad iPhone displays from a lot:
http://youtu.be/TbxzCiGhwPM
I didn't own an iPhone so I had to test them all with the phone the first customer provided.
Edit: Oh! And make sure the problem is not with the digitizer connection under the black plastic cover. Mine works it's way loose all the time and needs to be secured with tape. Even when inserted fully straight and locked, I put it together and find it not working or the display black until I take it back apart and reseat it. It will twist slightly and even the slightest angle affects the connection.
Today I finally decided to replace the broken screen on my Nexus 7. Everything went well and according to plan, and when turning on the device I noticed it was working fine. However, upon closer inspection it turned out that one thin line on my screen isn't working. It's preventing me from doing SwiftKey flow, and when I tried drawing in Evernote I could see it was skipping over that part of the screen.
What could be the cause of this? I can't rule out that it's the screen part itself, but could it be more likely that I somehow damaged the LCD flex cable? I tried detaching and reattaching cables, so I have doublechecked that. I guess my question is mostly, how useful is it to try and replace the cable? Thanks in advance!
wi11ow said:
Today I finally decided to replace the broken screen on my Nexus 7. Everything went well and according to plan, and when turning on the device I noticed it was working fine. However, upon closer inspection it turned out that one thin line on my screen isn't working. It's preventing me from doing SwiftKey flow, and when I tried drawing in Evernote I could see it was skipping over that part of the screen.
What could be the cause of this? I can't rule out that it's the screen part itself, but could it be more likely that I somehow damaged the LCD flex cable? I tried detaching and reattaching cables, so I have doublechecked that. I guess my question is mostly, how useful is it to try and replace the cable? Thanks in advance!
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Did you replace the combo lcd/digitizer, or just the digitizer? In the latter case, you're lucky to have just a thin dead band; usually,1/3 of the screen would be unusable. In the former case, if the bezel is bent, however slightly, or there is some glue residue from the old screen on the bezel that causes the new screen to lie on an uneven surface, it would happen. I've experimented enough times to know the bezel has to be absolutely clean of everything and the surface must be 100% smooth and even. If you used strong tape on the new screen, your best bet is the multi-fix touch, as removing it would in most cases damage it.
graphdarnell said:
Did you replace the combo lcd/digitizer, or just the digitizer? In the latter case, you're lucky to have just a thin dead band; usually,1/3 of the screen would be unusable. In the former case, if the bezel is bent, however slightly, or there is some glue residue from the old screen on the bezel that causes the new screen to lie on an uneven surface, it would happen. I've experimented enough times to know the bezel has to be absolutely clean of everything and the surface must be 100% smooth and even. If you used strong tape on the new screen, your best bet is the multi-fix touch, as removing it would in most cases damage it.
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I replaced the screen + digitizer. I looked at the bezel (luckily the tape I used wasn't that strong so the screen was still detachable) and I cleaned it up thoroughly. There were indeed some glue residues left. However, it was no use, the screen still fails in the same locations. I had high hopes this might be the cause, but apparently not.
I highly doubt the bezel was bent, because I was very careful with it. I will try out the multi-fix touch option, but I'll do that tomorrow as I'm quite tired now. Thanks for all the suggestions!
wi11ow said:
I replaced the screen + digitizer. I looked at the bezel (luckily the tape I used wasn't that strong so the screen was still detachable) and I cleaned it up thoroughly. There were indeed some glue residues left. However, it was no use, the screen still fails in the same locations. I had high hopes this might be the cause, but apparently not.
I highly doubt the bezel was bent, because I was very careful with it. I will try out the multi-fix touch option, but I'll do that tomorrow as I'm quite tired now. Thanks for all the suggestions!
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Don't know if you're familiar with the mechanics of the touchscreen, so I'm adding this for the sake of completeness. Lots of people would post problems and when you try to help, would snap back: "I already tried this and that and other things..." So if you already know, forget the rest.
I've found Yet Another Multi-touch Test (YAMTT) of tremendous help in diagnosing. When you switch from one firmware to another, YAMTT allows you to pinpoint exactly where touches do not register. If the dead band remains consistent, it's probably the screen itself. However, touch detection sometimes varies with the speed at which you touch. I've seen touches missing in some areas, which would register on a second or third or fourth pass. So, go slow in those areas, and back and forth to make sure they're really dead. Tedious process indeed, since you have around 30 variants to play with.
graphdarnell said:
Don't know if you're familiar with the mechanics of the touchscreen, so I'm adding this for the sake of completeness. Lots of people would post problems and when you try to help, would snap back: "I already tried this and that and other things..." So if you already know, forget the rest.
I've found Yet Another Multi-touch Test (YAMTT) of tremendous help in diagnosing. When you switch from one firmware to another, YAMTT allows you to pinpoint exactly where touches do not register. If the dead band remains consistent, it's probably the screen itself. However, touch detection sometimes varies with the speed at which you touch. I've seen touches missing in some areas, which would register on a second or third or fourth pass. So, go slow in those areas, and back and forth to make sure they're really dead. Tedious process indeed, since you have around 30 variants to play with.
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I don't know about the mechanics of the touchscreen, so all of this is helping me
I took a look at that tool, and I posted the result of drawing on imgur: paste "oyIt3bg" after imgur.com (I'm apparently still too 'new' to post links, sorry about that). It is clearly one band, very consistent. I think I should probably talk to the shop I got it from and ask for a replacement. Which sucks, because this particular parts took 3 weeks to even get here. Anyhow, glad I know what the problem is now. Again, thanks for all your help, I appreciate it
Hello fellow dutchie,
I have experienced this problem on my Nexus 4, and after having replaced the LCD+digitizer I also had issues with touch responsiveness in exactly the same areas. As silly as it would sound beforehand, it doesn't seem to be the screen or digitizer. Best... to give up.
A small PSA for anyone having issues with the touchpanel on Redmi 5 Plus:
This isn't a bug (though some of you may already know this); it's related to copper oxides forming on the connector of the touchpanel. The fix is surprisingly easy - the most difficult part is popping off the metal back panel which is kept in place by little notches. A pry tool or the side of a pill blister pack can be used (or anything thin like a guitar pick). You need to eject the SIM tray, then start at either bottom corner and get something lodged between the trim (the usb port is a good place to start). Then gradually use something else to work your way up the sides of the device until it pops off. Do not use anything with too much surface hardness or you could damage the chassis materials.
The touchscreen connector is the one left of the fingerprint sensor and immediately above the battery. It's a wide rectangle and identical to one across from it on the right (the connector for the battery). You can either pop it off and reseat it back down (which is what I did) or clean the pins with some isopropyl (do NOT use water). You probably won't notice anything amiss with the pins; the oxides are largely invisible and will have built up as the copper pins oxidise with the air. Just re-seating the connector may disturb the surface oxides enough to fix the issue completely. It did for me but you're best cleaning it with a minute amount of isopropyl on a new toothbrush; allow it to evaporate and seat it back in place.
After doing this my Redmi 5 Plus behaves like it did brand new. No intermittent input freezes; no keyboard taps missed, no mis-registered swipes. It's back to normal. 24 hours and counting; the difference is unmistakable, night and day.
I did it man and at first i thought it improved the touch screen but after a while i noticed touch screen non responsiveness all over so i think this is merely a placebo effect.
ash549k said:
I did it man and at first i thought it improved the touch screen but after a while i noticed touch screen non responsiveness all over so i think this is merely a placebo effect.
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Did you seat the connector fully down? Sometimes it appears like it's clicked into place but it hasn't.
The guy who posted the YouTube video for this said you need to clean the connector with alcohol (i.e isopropyl). I didn't, I think it's pot-luck that reseating the connector worked for me. Supposedly you do need to clean it. I'd suggest re-attempting with some isopropyl if you didn't already but I can say without a doubt it's worked for me. The screen is back to normal responsiveness here and it was a right pain the a- to use before. Not had even a hint of the old unresponsiveness; I can say with certainty it's not placebo now it's been 24 hours. I was getting tons of input freezes before; now not a single instance.