Develop Bugs

[HOW TO] Repair DINGS and PIMP BA [TUTORIAL]

Do you have dings dents and scratch on your beloved BLUEANGEL?
Do you have ugly paint peel and scuff marks on your beloved BLUEANGEL?
Is your PIMPED BLUEANGEL starting to paint peel?
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[TUTORIAL] On how to correctly PIMP YOU BLUEANGEL to last a thousand years.
Things Needed:
Grit 100 Sandpaper
Grit 1000 Sandpaper
Spray Paint
Primer
Lacquer
Expoxy Fixer
Rubbing Compound
1) Disassemble your BLUEANGEL and STORED them from dust.
2) Rough sand your faceplate using Grit 100 sandpaper. Rough sand it will allow primer to bond better later.
3) Use an EPOXY FIXER to fix on any dings and dents. Buy those really good ones which allow you to sand and fill. Leave for it to heal, approx 2hrs.
4) Rough sand the EPOXY FIXER with Grit 100 sandpaper.
5) Spray a few light coats of Primers on the face plate. (You might need to sand the primers if you are not a skiled spray man). Primers will bond better on the rough surface on the face plate and will help spray paint to bond better too. This way, the paint will last longer and better.
6) Spray many (4-6) light coats of SPRAY PAINT on your face plate and wait for it to heal, approx 1 hr.
7) WET SAND the face plate SOFLTY and LIGHTLY with Grit 1000 sandpaper to a SMOOTH standard (this is very important.. this will give a good glossy shiny surface or a rough rugged suface.)
8) Spray 3 average coat of Lacquer and leave it for 24hrs for total healing. (Leaving it a few hrs is not enough..!! IM SERIOUS)
9) After the Lacquer has heal totally, Rub the face plate with RUBBING COMPUND to polish.. use micro fibre clothe.
THERE YOU GO!!! YOU FIXED A DING AND GOTTEN YOURSELF A NEW PIMPED BA!
IF I HAVE EXTRA TIME I WOULD HAVE ALSO RE-SPRAY MY MID PIECE.. ggrrr..

w0w..great job!!
the BA now shinny again and much better than the original.^^

jilaxzone said:
w0w..great job!!
the BA now shinny again and much better than the original.^^
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yeah need to polish dah.. took ard 2hrs to polish and watch harry potter at the same time.. LOL

hi,
btw can the faceplate be removed without dissamble the BA?
cause in my case, I just want my faceplate to be painted.
Can u give me clear steps on how to remove the faceplate only?
Thanks

jilaxzone said:
hi,
btw can the faceplate be removed without dissamble the BA?
cause in my case, I just want my faceplate to be painted.
Can u give me clear steps on how to remove the faceplate only?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes babe..
look at this link.. post #28
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=484661&page=3

how's the paint holding up?

wew i did my last time, but i wasnt able to put primer before the paint, you know what happened..

I will try repainting my BA the right way. The first time I tried repainting it, paint peeled off for the reason that I did not use any primers.
I will post pictures here soon as I finish repainting it.

maybe????
can you make this a downloadable file? to keep for future refrenses or is that to much to ask? I could always do my own I guess. Thanks Much!!!

Concept seems great...but how well will the paint job stand up in the humidity of your pocket? The reason I ask is because I did this kind of job on an old Nextel i730 I had back in the day and lets just say it felt like I had a giant melted Starburst stuck in my pocket. Can you tell me the name and type of the laquer and paint you used. Thank you!

I painted my otterbox

I needed some way to differentiate my dev phone from my daily phone. So, I grabbed some fusion plastic paint from Walmart. I scuffed the surface with a scotch-brite pad, then cleaned with 92% alcohol, then painted and applied clear-coat.
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The paint also helps to hide the small crack I repaired next to the menu button.
I'll let you guys know how the paint holds up. What do you think?

Oh that's nice. You have given me inspiration!
Makes me really want an Oreo though.....

ive been tempted but, weary of paint scraping off and looking bad... I have some professional graffiti spray paint sitting around
let us know how long it lasts...
Ive also had an idea about painting the phone itself. by lightly sanding and using Nail Polish and a super hard Clear Coat

Very cool dude awesome I thing I should try it blue and black
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App

I definately want to try this now. Lol. I'm going red.

Not a bad idea. Keep us posted as to how it survives. Will check back in 3 weeks

yeah that paint on the two 'nobs' is going to scrape off, then scratches on the front ring...

joe.nobody said:
yeah that paint on the two 'nobs' is going to scrape off, then scratches on the front ring...
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Not if he goes and buys a quality clearcoat.
I mean, id even suggest going to autozone for automotive clear coat and using that. If you want it to really last, use a few coats.
EDIT: I should read the entire first post.

It looks good. Matches up with the colors from Andromeda.

Nice. My friend has an otterbox for his iphone just like that.

I should have done a better prep job. Do not use the method I mentioned above. Go with 400 grit sand paper to smooth out the surface, then 800 grit sandpaper to remove the 400 grit scuffs. Then use alcohol to clean and then paint.
It has received 1 chip so far which I attribute to improper surface prep.
Here's a picture I snapped to day of my ultra-jig and the arduino which I plan on communicating with.

ok now i want more info on your ultra jig....
what else does it do? just varriable resistance via the switches? so it would be able to enter dock mode too eh? anything else?
and the arduino? what you gonna do with that fun thing?
http://www.arduino.cc/

It's for all the factory modes and OTG mode listed here in this thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=820275 I plan on helping out on saving some bricks with the Arduino's communications libraries. The wrapped around wire will connect into the Arduino. Hopefully I can get some good USB to serial to UART going on.

i needed some fun reading...

Oh wow you made it. So you got the connection you were wanting.

!
That's pretty cool really stands out with those colors. but my case broke in same exact spot no more then 5 minutes ago. But hey if the case could talk it woukd have storys for days

Just call otter. They will send a new one. That's why I don't have a problem messing with this one. My new one was free. Just go on their website, dial the number in the upper right corner and tell them what happened to your case and where you bought it. They sent me a new one with that information only.

Trusselo said:
ive been tempted but, weary of paint scraping off and looking bad... I have some professional graffiti spray paint sitting around
let us know how long it lasts...
Ive also had an idea about painting the phone itself. by lightly sanding and using Nail Polish and a super hard Clear Coat
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, this is off topic a bit but do you think clear coat nail polish would be able to make the rubber part of the Otterbox Commuter less rubbery (and maybe harder)?
I know you probably don't have the case, but I'm talking about this rubber piece that goes before the hard shell:
The reason for this is because the rubber piece is too rubbery and it collects a ton of dust. It also dislodges a bit when I take it out of my pockets due to it being rubbery so I was looking for something I could use to make it less so. I didn't think of nail polish though. Let me know if you think this would make sense. It's just a random idea in my head when I seen you mention it. I would just be using it on the exposed top and bottom parts.

Enhanced said:
Sorry, this is off topic a bit but do you think clear coat nail polish would be able to make the rubber part of the Otterbox Commuter less rubbery (and maybe harder)?
I know you probably don't have the case, but I'm talking about this rubber piece that goes before the hard shell:
The reason for this is because the rubber piece is too rubbery and it collects a ton of dust. It also dislodges a bit when I take it out of my pockets due to it being rubbery so I was looking for something I could use to make it less so. I didn't think of nail polish though. Let me know if you think this would make sense. It's just a random idea in my head when I seen you mention it. I would just be using it on the exposed top and bottom parts.
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Same problem here with the Commuter. I suspect that wouldn't work though. Ive been wrong before though.

a hard-coat or anything sprayed/painted on to the rubber would just flake off...

Easy & Quick solutions: loose battery cover and that thingy under transparent strip

Easy & Quick solutions: loose battery cover and that thingy under transparent strip
Hello, lately i had problems with loose battery cover on my Xperia S, and, thinking about getting it even more loosy by leaving that be brought me to tinkering with easy and cheap solution, and i've found revertible and easy solution for both issues.
Loose battery cover:
A tiny layer of hot glue placed here (image 1) can fix your solution. Keep in mind that too thick layer can bulge the cover a little, work quickly and press on the S(E) logo firmly after cover installation to make the layer as thin as possible. Only drawback is that the glue needs to be reapplied every time you need to change your SIM card. glue can be easily removed without leaving any trace on the phone in case of warranty service request or selling the phone... to remove the cover just use a little bit more force than you are used to.
Image 1 - Personally recommended place to put the hot glue layer:
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Loose plastic thingy covering antenna under transparent strip:
Using a gutiar pick or any similar object (definately NOT screwdrivers or any other metal tools, nails - they are too solid, too, and might damage the plastic, it's better to destroy gutiar pick than look of your treasured phone, trust me)
The picture below shows how to properly remove the thin plastic covering antenna:
Just be carefull and do not use too much force, the plastic is really thin... it might be kinda tricky but you should figure it out eventually...
after successfully removing the cover, use some glue designed to make plastic to plastic connections. (NOTE: cyanoacrylate based glues are not recommended - in case you need to put the cover off again, you will most likely destroy it... I've personally used Revell contacta glue compound designed to glue plastic models - it is firm, but the glue can be easily removed with little effort and the joint is not too superior so it will break sooner than the plastic cover)
After putting few drops of glue (the less is better) just carefully put it back in - this should be easier than removing it, just be sure to fit it properly, it's kinda PITA to put it back down... Let the glue dry and enjoy
DISCLAIMER:
Despite both methods are used and tested for one month by me, I take no responsibility for results. Basics of workmanship skills required (or at least recommended, if you are not comfy with putting your phone apart even a little, then entrust with the work somebody you believe he can get the job done, or just forget about this thread

Nice tips, although I solved the loose battery cover by placing two small bits of blu-tack on top of the two screws at the bottom left and right of the back. That has solved the issue without needing to reglue or get messy every time you need access to the SIM.

Thanks for another tip, when i need to access my SIM card i'll try your method, I've considered it first but i was sceptical a bit about the potential results

loose back cover
I actually just rolled some normal tape on itself and stuck it on the spot where the glue is put (didn't have glue).. Works perfect as well

The tape i've tryed now is most likely using weaker glue than yours and it's not as firm as i would expect but it's quicker solution and undoubtly less messy, not to mention that it doesn't require quick manipulation... I've used standard office transparent tape... i've no access to my toolbox atm as i'm @ work, so i'll try stronger tape when i return home... thanks for your tip

Problem after screen replacement

Hey guys, my lg g2 screen was cracked so I got a replacement screen, both digitizer and lcd. Everything went smoothly and I have everything working but a small this bothers me. The screen is not flush with the frame it pops out a bit maybe the double sided tape I used inside to hold the screen down wasn't good enough. Do you guys have any ideas as to what I can do? I was thinking of applying a little bit of silicone and let it set. Any help will be much appreciated. I am attaching the photos of it as well to get a better idea.
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abhishekpujar said:
Hey guys, my lg g2 screen was cracked so I got a replacement screen, both digitizer and lcd. Everything went smoothly and I have everything working but a small this bothers me. The screen is not flush with the frame it pops out a bit maybe the double sided tape I used inside to hold the screen down wasn't good enough. Do you guys have any ideas as to what I can do? I was thinking of applying a little bit of silicone and let it set. Any help will be much appreciated. I am attaching the photos of it as well to get a better idea. View attachment 2951532View attachment 2951533View attachment 2951534
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I used a glue from Home Depot, the type you mix. I got the clear kind. There are many types but look and see the pressure resistance and if it works on plastics before you buy. Mine was also water proof. I believe it was a type of Gorilla glue, it worked wonders unlike the tape. Jus make sure you get the correct type, even Gorilla has different types. You also have to maintain pressure till it dries by the way or your screen will stick out.

abhinav.tella said:
I used a glue from Home Depot, the type you mix. I got the clear kind. There are many types but look and see the pressure resistance and if it works on plastics before you buy. Mine was also water proof. I believe it was a type of Gorilla glue, it worked wonders unlike the tape. Jus make sure you get the correct type, even Gorilla has different types. You also have to maintain pressure till it dries by the way or your screen will stick out.
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If we use this method, how easy would it be to replace the screen again if need be?
I'm just wondering if the glue would work TOO well.
Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk

Use a type of glue which melts with the heat, like the original.

daddymikey1975 said:
If we use this method, how easy would it be to replace the screen again if need be?
I'm just wondering if the glue would work TOO well.
Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk
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The people that repaired my screen did a bad job, thats why I added the glue, the new screen had rainbow lines issues but they manged to get it off with a little force and replace it again. This is because I did not go overboard and add too much, so you should be fine if u need to break off or replace the LCD.
I used Gorilla Epoxy (3300Psi and sets in 5 mins), just make sure to use very little amounts or it might get in between the LCD layers, basically just don't be overzealous and you will be fine.

[MOD][THERMAL][GUTS] nVidia Shield TV 16GB Thermal Paste Replacement

Here we have a simple MOD to replace the thermal paste on my Shield TV.
I have not tested to see how bad or if this X1 chip throttles under a good load but I figured it couldn't hurt to replace the TIM with something better than stock. So here we Gooooooo!
Disclaimer: I hold no responsibility if you attempt this and break your device. You my friend bear all the risks.
Here we have the Guts! The Bottom was surprisingly easy to remove with only some clips holding it in place. So pry lightly from the corner and edges and be careful not to pry to hard or insert anything like a spludger as you may break tabs or crack the plastic so be easy and work your way around by hand if at all possible.
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The device does not look as glamorous on the inside as the nvidia renders suggested when it was advertised. lol
It does however show a very small, powerful device, with a lot of added weight to assist in its premium feel and or using the available vertical stand you can purchase from nVidia.
Here is the connection board. I won't have to take all this stuff out at the moment but If there is a bigger demand for it I will later as I can't find many teardowns of the shield anywhere, I had found one but it was not very detailed on the method.
Here is a small piece of tape holding the very small wires away from the heat pipe. Make sure these are clear from the pipe during and after removal as you don't want to pull on them or expose them to direct contact with the heat pipe after it's reinstall.
We start by removing the two small screws holding the fan and heat sink into place.
Sometimes the small anker will come out with the screw but it can be reseated with a little pressure.
Next, begin by removing the three spring reinforced screws applying pressure to the main X1 chip.
Now we get to see and clean the gunk they slathered on at the factory! YAY!
Use some high grade alcohol at least 70% and begin cleaning with some cotton swabs and q-tips.
Ugh!! Clean it..... Clean it real good!
Oooha Shiny!
Clean the X1 chip off carefully and try not to let the gunk flop around and get pushed into the small crevices in the top of the metal CPU lid. We don't want to insulate the heat in the chip. The best method is to soak a cotton ball in alcohol but not too much and go in for one big swipe to get the bulk of the TIM off. Then go back in with a small q-tip to get the remaining film or small pieces of leftover TIM
Now simply use your TIM of choice. I chose Gelid Extreme with a thermal conductivity of 8.5w/m-k as it had exceptional results when I did a similar cooling mod to my Nexus 6P. Apply a small rice grain sized amount to the top of the X1 chip right in the middle. Mine usually end up looking like a small grey Hershey's Kiss. Do not spread it with a card or spreader. This creates air pockets under pressure and insulates the chip from the heat pipe and will cause temperatures to go up.
Now reseat the fan in the exhaust slot first.
Then begin laying heat pipe and copper plate back onto the CPU slowly, and in a straight downward fashion. If the plate makes contact with the TIM and you have to back it out for any reason, you will need to remove and clean the TIM before reapplying because now air pockets will develope.
Screw the 3 screws on the heat pipe back in tightly
Screw the fan back in securely
Clean up and snap the bottom back on and wipe her down and boom your good to go!
To break the paste in a little make sure you heat her up good and play a graphically intense game. Just anything to get the Cuda cores churning a little. Then let her fully cool off at some point by pulling the power cable and letting it sit a little to fully cool in an off state instead of simply just sleeping. This simple full heat cycle ensures the TIM adjusts and sets correctly.
Enjoy!!!:highfive:

I really see no need to do this, but thx anyway
BTW, nice vaping unit

scaramonga said:
I really see no need to do this, but thx anyway
BTW, nice vaping unit
Click to expand...
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I agree this is not a mod everyone needs to do because of shields dropping dead from heat damage or anything because they don't. But I did it to mine so I figured having some pics available and such would be at least worth posting and having available. Oh and thanks it is a Mini Volt. It is a tiny little thing! Good for carrying when your just headed to the corner store and back.

What I have found to make quite a difference is to put some thermal pads over the heatsink so that it is thermally connected to the aluminum baseplate.

Do I need ink to do this properly?
Pp.
sent from my stone/stock S6e using microwave technology.