Related
I've read a bunch of threads but haven't found a solution to my particular problem.
I've had my Nexus since April, and all was fine until about 3-4 weeks ago when I noticed that no matter how long I left the phone charging it wouldn't go past 88%. Getting married in August and working a lot of overtime, I have been frustrated by this issue but have done nothing about it, so over time I've been watching as it was maxing out at 84%, then 80% then 76%, 74%, 72%, 70%...it now will not charge past 66% and by the end of the week it will probably be 62%!
So, I have tried three different chargers (one that came with Nexus, the one tht came with my fiancee's HTC One X, and a no name). I have replaced the battery (a friend has the same phone with a spare battery). Nothing changes. This is clearly not the "well it reaches 100% and then stops charging even while plugged in to save the battery" thing that most threads talk about. It's not the charger and it's not the battery.
It's the phone (or the software). I'm not positive I even understand what "rooting" a phone is so it's safe to say that it is not rooted. It is an out of the box Galaxy Nexus that has only had official updates (currently running Jelly Bean but the problem did begin before it updated from ICS).
I'm praying for a solution as I bought the phone in Hong Kong, and therefor cannot return it.
DynoNobel said:
I've read a bunch of threads but haven't found a solution to my particular problem.
I've had my Nexus since April, and all was fine until about 3-4 weeks ago when I noticed that no matter how long I left the phone charging it wouldn't go past 88%. Getting married in August and working a lot of overtime, I have been frustrated by this issue but have done nothing about it, so over time I've been watching as it was maxing out at 84%, then 80% then 76%, 74%, 72%, 70%...it now will not charge past 66% and by the end of the week it will probably be 62%!
So, I have tried three different chargers (one that came with Nexus, the one tht came with my fiancee's HTC One X, and a no name). I have replaced the battery (a friend has the same phone with a spare battery). Nothing changes. This is clearly not the "well it reaches 100% and then stops charging even while plugged in to save the battery" thing that most threads talk about. It's not the charger and it's not the battery.
It's the phone (or the software). I'm not positive I even understand what "rooting" a phone is so it's safe to say that it is not rooted. It is an out of the box Galaxy Nexus that has only had official updates (currently running Jelly Bean but the problem did begin before it updated from ICS).
I'm praying for a solution as I bought the phone in Hong Kong, and therefor cannot return it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your mistake was most likely your purchasing location.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
Fire n mage said:
Your mistake was most likely your purchasing location.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it's not exactly like I bought it from a mom and pop shop or from the guy with a suitcase on the corner. It was purchased from Fortress, which is a subsidiary of Hutchison Whampoa which is an international conglomerate that operates in the US, Canada, and all over Europe as well. Don't confuse Hong Kong with mainland China, there is no difference in quality between this phone and one purchased in USA
Did battery calibration help at all? I'm starting to think that either the software is showing a wrong percentage (which in case you can calibrate it) or you have to get it checked.
kyokeun1234 said:
Did battery calibration help at all? I'm starting to think that either the software is showing a wrong percentage (which in case you can calibrate it) or you have to get it checked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I downloaded a calibration app, and realized the phone needs to be rooted. The app said that it would only calibrate the phone when it was in a 100% charged state.
The default battery meter said 66%, app called power circle said 66%, and the battery calibration app said 66%
DynoNobel said:
I downloaded a calibration app, and realized the phone needs to be rooted. The app said that it would only calibrate the phone when it was in a 100% charged state.
The default battery meter said 66%, app called power circle said 66%, and the battery calibration app said 66%
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok you can calibrate the battery status by draining the battery until the power turns off and then just turn it on again (while charging obviously) and then charge it to the max and then hopefully it charges to 100%
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda app-developers app
kyokeun1234 said:
Ok you can calibrate the battery status by draining the battery until the power turns off and then just turn it on again (while charging obviously) and then charge it to the max and then hopefully it charges to 100%
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, ya I definitely did that, more than once, with both batteries. I let it completely die on it's own (which isn't hard as the battery life is noticeably shorter since it won't charge all the way). I also let it drain to 1% and then charged it full. I tried draining until it shut itself off and then charging it full while it was shut off, and then again with it powered on during charging. Whether on or off, it continues to tell me it is charging, but never reaches higher than the numbers i posted above (currently 66%).
DynoNobel said:
Oh, ya I definitely did that, more than once, with both batteries. I let it completely die on it's own (which isn't hard as the battery life is noticeably shorter since it won't charge all the way). I also let it drain to 1% and then charged it full. I tried draining until it shut itself off and then charging it full while it was shut off, and then again with it powered on during charging. Whether on or off, it continues to tell me it is charging, but never reaches higher than the numbers i posted above (currently 66%).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dial *#*#4636#*#* and go to "Battery... something" and check what it says at Battery health
bgdxv said:
dial *#*#4636#*#* and go to "Battery... something" and check what it says at Battery health
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Says:
Battery Status: Discharging
Power plug: Unplugged
Battery Level: 40
Scale: 100
Health: Good
Voltage: 3603 mV
Temperature: 35.0 C
Technology: Li-ion
Time Since Boot: 53:52:47
I will try this again once I've gotten home and charged it all the way (back to 66%...) and have it plugged in when I input the code
DynoNobel said:
Says:
Battery Status: Discharging
Power plug: Unplugged
Battery Level: 40
Scale: 100
Health: Good
Voltage: 3603 mV
Temperature: 35.0 C
Technology: Li-ion
Time Since Boot: 53:52:47
I will try this again once I've gotten home and charged it all the way (back to 66%...) and have it plugged in when I input the code
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you can still calibrate your battery with this app
https://play.google.com/store/apps/...xLDEsImNvbS5uZW1hLmJhdHRlcnljYWxpYnJhdGlvbiJd
just untick wait til 100% if your battery is still coming up odd
it definitely sounds like a software issue to me
I'm having exactly the same problem. My phone was purchased in a different country and had several different firmwares (we've used it for kernel development) so it's not under warranty anymore.
At some point I flashed the stock firmware (it was 4.0.2 back then) from Google's website and started using it as a normal phone. Everything was fine until at some point (somewhere in September) I noticed it stopped charging past 89%. After that I saw this figure go all the way down to 39% and that's where it is now. It charges to 39 within an hour or so, then the charging status while being plugged says "not charging". If I leave it like this it can go to 60 over a few more hours, in this case if I go into charging status I can sometimes see "Charging (USB)" which basically means lower charging current (seems like some kind of trickle charge situation).
I think that it started after I saw a different charging glitch (that one is quite popular on the Internet) - when the phone doesn't see that it's plugged I fixed that one with bending the USB "tongue".
I've tried switching the battery with a properly working GN phone - my device sees a different charge level than the working phone. The working phone had shown 95% on my battery and 90% on its own battery. My phone had shown somewhat like 35 and 30 respectively.
I've tried multiple different stock firmwares (4.1, 4.1.1, 4.2.1). I've tried full reset with data wipe and clean firmware load a number of times. I've tried battery stats reset, battery pull, full discharge (in bootloader and another phone) - nothing helps.
It looks like the phone detects the current battery charge incorrectly and while the circuitry prevents the battery from overcharging and turns off charging when the battery is at full capacity, the software for some reason sees 39% instead of 99% and thus turns off the phone when it sees 0 (and it's really somewhere around 60%).
The two things that I haven't tried were flashing a different kernel (CM? AOKP?) and replacing the USB port board.
I don't want to mess around with different kernels because I don't really believe that it'll help, but I did order the USB board.
I'd appreciate if someone with similar problem shared their experiences.
P.S.: Just took my *#*#4636#*#* battery info screen: it sees that it's at 24%, sees that it's plugged into AC and it's not charging.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
This is strange. I posted a thread a while back about the same issue. Theres also another one too.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2080383
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2059289
Everyone's seems to have gone through every possible combination of chargers, batteries, roms, kernels...idk to me it's just freaky that these threads (which i never recall seeing ANY outlining the same issue) suddenly are popping up. Mine started soon after i flashed my first 4.2 rom. my battery info also reports similarly to what others are saying (good health, 100 scale, 3.9v). i just think its very strange that more and more people are complaining of this.
another side note, whenever im using my phone while its plugged in, the battery seems to drain pretty quickly (even though it is saying ac-charging). anyone else getting this too?
crowmallet said:
This is strange. I posted a thread a while back about the same issue. Theres also another one too.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2080383
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2059289
Everyone's seems to have gone through every possible combination of chargers, batteries, roms, kernels...idk to me it's just freaky that these threads (which i never recall seeing ANY outlining the same issue) suddenly are popping up. Mine started soon after i flashed my first 4.2 rom. my battery info also reports similarly to what others are saying (good health, 100 scale, 3.9v). i just think its very strange that more and more people are complaining of this.
another side note, whenever im using my phone while its plugged in, the battery seems to drain pretty quickly (even though it is saying ac-charging). anyone else getting this too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, thanks for pointing out those threads, looks like they all describe the same issue. I guess, a moderator needs to unite them or something.
When I'm using an AC plugged phone - the battery drain seems to be of similar scale as charging in WiFi web browsing scenario. If I'm streaming a high-res video over WiFi, sometime the drain is higher than charge rate and it dies even being plugged, saw that a couple of times.
If I'm using it as a GPS in a car, it drains faster than it charges with a regular auto charger (not sure of its amperage), however I haven't checked this scenario before the problems with charge started.
To address my experience with the issues mentioned in other threads:
- I tried my stock battery in another gnex that doesn't have the problem - that phone saw a different charge level in my battery from what my phone had been showing. Also my phone had shown incorrect value for the other battery which leads me to believe that it's not a battery issue.
- I had the thought that dirt and dust in the connections might be an issue. I disassembled the phone (following this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sD6LRfJHSk), checked and cleaned all the connections (not with alcohol, though). Except for the inside of the USB port all the internals were pretty clean to begin with. The procedure didn't solve the problem.
Now, the only suspect I have remaining is the charging circuitry. I have ordered this part http://cnn.cn/shop/samsung-i9250-galaxy-nexus-microusb-connector-flex-cable-p-15348.html (also available on ebay) and will see if it will solve the problem. Luckily it's fairly easy to replace, requires no soldering (though it does require to disassemble the phone completely).
Corvin666 said:
Hey, thanks for pointing out those threads, looks like they all describe the same issue. I guess, a moderator needs to unite them or something.
When I'm using an AC plugged phone - the battery drain seems to be of similar scale as charging in WiFi web browsing scenario. If I'm streaming a high-res video over WiFi, sometime the drain is higher than charge rate and it dies even being plugged, saw that a couple of times.
If I'm using it as a GPS in a car, it drains faster than it charges with a regular auto charger (not sure of its amperage), however I haven't checked this scenario before the problems with charge started.
To address my experience with the issues mentioned in other threads:
- I tried my stock battery in another gnex that doesn't have the problem - that phone saw a different charge level in my battery from what my phone had been showing. Also my phone had shown incorrect value for the other battery which leads me to believe that it's not a battery issue.
- I had the thought that dirt and dust in the connections might be an issue. I disassembled the phone (following this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sD6LRfJHSk), checked and cleaned all the connections (not with alcohol, though). Except for the inside of the USB port all the internals were pretty clean to begin with. The procedure didn't solve the problem.
Now, the only suspect I have remaining is the charging circuitry. I have ordered this part http://cnn.cn/shop/samsung-i9250-galaxy-nexus-microusb-connector-flex-cable-p-15348.html (also available on ebay) and will see if it will solve the problem. Luckily it's fairly easy to replace, requires no soldering (though it does require to disassemble the phone completely).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really hoping you figure this out. After spending far too long trying to fix mine, I broke down and replaced it. It is currently a paper-weight. When plugged in it says it is charging, but won't go past 0%. I plugged it in on the weekend for approx 30 hours and upon unplugging it immediately shut down. I have an external battery charger and two batteries and I can charge the battery full and put it back in the phone and it will still say 0%.
If it means anything to anybody, this problem starting happening to my phone when it was in stock condition (hadn't been unlocked or rooted) but after it was updated to 4.2 through the standard consumer method of updating.
DynoNobel said:
Really hoping you figure this out. After spending far too long trying to fix mine, I broke down and replaced it. It is currently a paper-weight. When plugged in it says it is charging, but won't go past 0%. I plugged it in on the weekend for approx 30 hours and upon unplugging it immediately shut down. I have an external battery charger and two batteries and I can charge the battery full and put it back in the phone and it will still say 0%.
If it means anything to anybody, this problem starting happening to my phone when it was in stock condition (hadn't been unlocked or rooted) but after it was updated to 4.2 through the standard consumer method of updating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I've finally given up. I broke down and bought another battery on amazon (samsung verizon oem one) with near certainty it wouldn't help. It didn't. I've been running stock now and I'm going into the Verizon store tomorrow to see what they can do (if anything). I'm sure they will give me the run around though (oh its probably just the battery etc).
Corvin666 said:
Now, the only suspect I have remaining is the charging circuitry. I have ordered this part (also available on ebay) and will see if it will solve the problem. Luckily it's fairly easy to replace, requires no soldering (though it does require to disassemble the phone completely).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you have any success with replacing this part?
leadthrower21 said:
Did you have any success with replacing this part?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm still waiting for it to arrive. I live in Eastern Europe and mail is really crappy here.
same story for me
Corvin666 said:
I'm having exactly the same problem. My phone was purchased in a different country and had several different firmwares (we've used it for kernel development) so it's not under warranty anymore.
At some point I flashed the stock firmware (it was 4.0.2 back then) from Google's website and started using it as a normal phone. Everything was fine until at some point (somewhere in September) I noticed it stopped charging past 89%. After that I saw this figure go all the way down to 39% and that's where it is now. It charges to 39 within an hour or so, then the charging status while being plugged says "not charging". If I leave it like this it can go to 60 over a few more hours, in this case if I go into charging status I can sometimes see "Charging (USB)" which basically means lower charging current (seems like some kind of trickle charge situation).
I think that it started after I saw a different charging glitch (that one is quite popular on the Internet) - when the phone doesn't see that it's plugged I fixed that one with bending the USB "tongue".
I've tried switching the battery with a properly working GN phone - my device sees a different charge level than the working phone. The working phone had shown 95% on my battery and 90% on its own battery. My phone had shown somewhat like 35 and 30 respectively.
I've tried multiple different stock firmwares (4.1, 4.1.1, 4.2.1). I've tried full reset with data wipe and clean firmware load a number of times. I've tried battery stats reset, battery pull, full discharge (in bootloader and another phone) - nothing helps.
It looks like the phone detects the current battery charge incorrectly and while the circuitry prevents the battery from overcharging and turns off charging when the battery is at full capacity, the software for some reason sees 39% instead of 99% and thus turns off the phone when it sees 0 (and it's really somewhere around 60%).
The two things that I haven't tried were flashing a different kernel (CM? AOKP?) and replacing the USB port board.
I don't want to mess around with different kernels because I don't really believe that it'll help, but I did order the USB board.
I'd appreciate if someone with similar problem shared their experiences.
P.S.: Just took my *#*#4636#*#* battery info screen: it sees that it's at 24%, sees that it's plugged into AC and it's not charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same story for me. Exact same issue. Ive flashed roms (CM, PA, Unique, Minco) and the issue does not go away. I did change the USB board. It did not help. I think too that the circuitry prevents the battery from overcharging. Battery Indicator App says FULLY CHARGED even when android reports 0% charge.
---------- Post added at 12:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:09 PM ----------
Corvin666 said:
I'm still waiting for it to arrive. I live in Eastern Europe and mail is really crappy here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem. Ive replaced the board 2 times. It does not help
Got my USB board today, replaced it and it didn't help. Short of changing the mainboard, I'm out of ideas
I'm having this same problem. Purchases a Nexus off Craiglist the other day (with forwarning of this battery problem) and figured I could fix it easily with a new ROM or by wiping battery stats. Unfortunately nothing I try seems to have any effect. I've used different batteries and charged them fully with an external charger. As soon as I put them in this phone they read 64%. So Frustrating!!!!
How is everyone finding the battery life. Personally, I am finding it just plain horrible. I'm not sure what the issue is specifically but either something is draining it or it is just really that bad, in which case I will return it. I can't get a day's worth of moderate use out of it. It seems to be at most half of what I get from my note 10.1 and they aren't set up any differently. I've tried some of the basics like turning down the screen brightness (which annoys me), turning off the smart stay (but why have a feature you can't use), tweaking email checking settings, turning off samsung sync, turning off bluetooth (don't use it), and locations services. Is anyone else seeing this as an issue and does anyone have any additional suggestions for me to try?
Thanks in Advance
I get about two days between charges on mine. I get a decent amount of usage on a daily basis between email, Facebook, and candy crush. I even have Google Now running. How many charge cycles have you been through?
05GT said:
I get about two days between charges on mine. I get a decent amount of usage on a daily basis between email, Facebook, and candy crush. I even have Google Now running. How many charge cycles have you been through?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If by charge cycles you mean fully discharging the phone until it shuts off, I haven't done that, but could give it a shot. It has gone down to 10% several times though.
No battery problems here. I wouldn't blame charge cycles, if they have any effect at all, it is minor. If I were you, I would do a factory reset, followed by an exchange if the reset doesn't fix it.
I have smart stay on , backlight on auto, and take no extra precautions for battery savings.
DownTFish said:
How is everyone finding the battery life. Personally, I am finding it just plain horrible. I'm not sure what the issue is specifically but either something is draining it or it is just really that bad, in which case I will return it. I can't get a day's worth of moderate use out of it. It seems to be at most half of what I get from my note 10.1 and they aren't set up any differently. I've tried some of the basics like turning down the screen brightness (which annoys me), turning off the smart stay (but why have a feature you can't use), tweaking email checking settings, turning off samsung sync, turning off bluetooth (don't use it), and locations services. Is anyone else seeing this as an issue and does anyone have any additional suggestions for me to try?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you please post some screen shots of your battery life at the end of a typical cycle? It will help with comparisons by giving us more details on your running apps, screen-on display times, etc. Also, what wakelocks do you have? Use BetterBatteryStats or Wakelock Detector from the Play store for that. This info might help us to identify just how much drain is related to rogue apps or the general battery life itself.
sefrcoko said:
Can you please post some screen shots of your battery life at the end of a typical cycle? It will help with comparisons by giving us more details on your running apps, screen-on display times, etc. Also, what wakelocks do you have? Use BetterBatteryStats or Wakelock Detector from the Play store for that. This info might help us to identify just how much drain is related to rogue apps or the general battery life itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Just downloaded BetterBatteryStatus. I'll let it run for a bit and see what comes up. I'll post what I came up with with screen shots from it. Thanks for pointing me in a direction.
Also, it'd help to know how many hours "just plain horrible" is.
I'm not delighted by the battery life I'm seeing, I'm finding I want to charge every night, and that I can easily consume 15% / hour or more even without the screen turned up past 20-25%. (watching video off the NAS in the house.)
Then again, this is the first LCD display I've been able to read in full sunlight, and that's remarkable to me. I often wind up with full sun in the morning when I get up, and am delighted that if I did charge overnight I can use the device even then.
The battery needs some initial "training".
Charge fully on the first and run it all the way down to nearly zero, and fully charge again.
DO NOT interrupt the initial charge.
Battery life is great here after 5 cycles running it to 1% and recharging full at first it was draining faster but now I can watch 4 hours of netflix and still have 25% left nice thing is that the battery charges superfast so no worries
DownTFish said:
If by charge cycles you mean fully discharging the phone until it shuts off, I haven't done that, but could give it a shot. It has gone down to 10% several times though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
10% is just fine, for purposes of calibrating the battery meter. Preferable actually. You shouldn't actually drain the device until shutdown. There are safeguards that are supposed to ensure the battery voltage does not drop too low (its not actually zero when the phone shuts down). However, in reality these safeguards are not always failsafe and I've seen plenty of cases on various Android devices where letting the battery drain to shutoff renders the battery unable to take a charge (below the minimum threshold voltage). Sometimes, letting the battery charge overnight will bring the battery back. Otherwise, you are pretty screwed, as the only remedy would be a battery meter with a boost function.
In any case, the battery meter is not very accurate, even under the best of circumstances, so letting it drain to 10% is plenty accurate enough. Then let it charge to 100%, and let it sit at full for a while, as fully saturating the battery takes extra time.
---------- Post added at 11:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:08 AM ----------
That said, its hard to say what "moderate use" means. Everyone uses their devices differently. If you are playing intensive games, downloading files, heavy internet usage, it can drain the battery much faster than other activities. And the number of hours of screen-on time is key. So the idea of getting some battery stats and screenshots, is a good one.
I haven't been tracking screen-on time myself. But I find the battery to be decent. I use it a good amount in the evening (don't bring it to work) mostly for reading and web browsing. I have brightness on 40-50% usually (sometimes less, if the room is darker). The battery was just under 40% after 2 nights of use (maybe 40 hours after the last charge). Just guessing, but maybe 3 or 4 hours of screen on time?
Some online reviews mentioned the battery life is not as good as some other comparable devices (such as Nexus 7 and iPad Mini). Not surprising, since the Note 8 has a faster processor and higher resolution screen than either. And so far, battery life is not amazing, but seems comparable or better (better drain while idle) than my old HTC Flyer tablet. So for me, thats just fine.
I got about 4 hours screen-on time on my first battery cycle with heavy usage. Was playing games, movies, internet browsing, etc. My second and third cycles were better, giving me 5-6 hours screen-on time with moderate to heavy usage. Didn't really play any movies, but did play a fair amount of games and stuff.
On those later cycles my screen-on drain represented about 85% of my overall drain. This leads me to say that you can expect 4.5-6.5 hours of screen-on time with the Note 8, depending on usage. Keep in mind that I keep wifi always on, disabled bluetooth/auto-sync/smart stay, stopped some running apps like Maps and Factory Test, and kept brightness down to about 15% of the max setting.
Screen is definitely the big drain here, and these results lead me to believe that even with root and apps like Greenify I would not get much better results. Looks like any further battery savings will need to come from a custom kernel and custom rom (unless maybe you root and then underclock/undervolt using a third party app like Voltage Control or SetCpu). Anyone else have similar (or different ) results?
mingkee said:
The battery needs some initial "training".
Charge fully on the first and run it all the way down to nearly zero, and fully charge again.
DO NOT interrupt the initial charge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dumbest thing wrote in this thread probably. You do not need to train or do a full charge. How come people still believe that nonsense in 2013 ??
Bagbug said:
dumbest thing wrote in this thread probably. You do not need to train or do a full charge. How come people still believe that nonsense in 2013 ??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
:what:...XDA is for fun and for sharing; not for putting others down. Please be a little more respectful towards forum users when you post in the future. If you disagree with something then just explain so we can all learn together.
I am assuming the Note 8 has a lithium based battery. I couldn't confirm it though. The below link has some tips for how to care for different type of batteries. Useful reading.
http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/tablets/how-and-when-to-charge-your-tablet-battery/814
Sent from my GT-N5110 using xda app-developers app
Although the battery life is of concern to me, the fact it charges via a micro USB input rather than propriatry cable alieviates that worry (looking at you Apple). I dont think I go anywhere where there isnt a charger available thanks to the amount of devices that use them.
Bagbug said:
dumbest thing wrote in this thread probably. You do not need to train or do a full charge. How come people still believe that nonsense in 2013 ??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While his terminology might have been a bit clumsy, he is not completely incorrect.
The terminology of "training the battery" invokes the concepts of conditioning the old technology NiCad batteries to prevent memory effects, which are not a concern with Li ion batteries, which is what you seem to be referring to. Folks on XDA will often talk about conditioning or calibrating the battery, which can be a bit misleading (as often they have the behavior of the old NiCad batteries in mind when saying this).
However, it is true that the battery meter needs to be calibrated to be completely accurate. This calibration has no chemical effect on the battery itself (like it does with NiCad batteries) but simply effects how the current readings are displayed by the % battery meter on the device's screen. Without fully charging and draining the device, it doesn't have fully accurate "flags" associated the current to battery %.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/battery_calibration
Failure to calibrate the meter won't have a negative chemical effect, like failure to periodically condition a NiCad battery. And therefore it won't have an affect on the battery life. But properly calibrating will give you the most accurate % battery reading possible. The battery meter is not accurate out of the box, after a ROM flash, and an OTA may also reset the calibration.
As I've already mentioned in a previous response, I don't recommend draining the battery to shutoff. As doing so can lead to the battery no longer taking a charge, and the device no longer powering on. Its rare, but it does happen. Fully changing, then draining to 10% or so is enough. Full cycles are also not good for the long term life of the battery, although just doing it once every few months is still acceptable.
---------- Post added at 10:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:07 AM ----------
kisrita said:
I am assuming the Note 8 has a lithium based battery. I couldn't confirm it though. The below link has some tips for how to care for different type of batteries. Useful reading.
http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/tablets/how-and-when-to-charge-your-tablet-battery/814
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty good link, thanks. And reinforces what I just said above.
Most any smartphone or tablet made in the past several years uses a Li ion battery. This confirms it: http://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_galaxy_note_8_0_n5100-5252.php
---------- Post added at 10:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:21 AM ----------
hertsjoatmon said:
Although the battery life is of concern to me, the fact it charges via a micro USB input rather than propriatry cable alieviates that worry (looking at you Apple). I dont think I go anywhere where there isnt a charger available thanks to the amount of devices that use them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The charger for the Note 8 is 2 Amps, while most MicroUSB chargers (at least for phones and other small devices) are 1 Amp. Although this varies, and there are other tablet chargers that are also 2 Amps; but these are far less common than phone charges that just about anyone with a phone that isn't Apple will have.
What this means is that the 1 Amp charger will charge the Note 8 very slowly. I tried mine on a 1 Amp charger just once so far. Left it on for maybe an hour, and the charge only increased by a few percent.
So yes, you can charge with most MicroUSB chargers in a pinch. But it will be slow.
hertsjoatmon said:
Although the battery life is of concern to me, the fact it charges via a micro USB input rather than propriatry cable alieviates that worry (looking at you Apple). I dont think I go anywhere where there isnt a charger available thanks to the amount of devices that use them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't get the physical plug of a charger confuse you - I believe this tablet needs a 2amp output from the charger, meaning just because your charger has the same end connection, it won't necessarily help you charge this battery. I've had my users come to me thinking their devices are defective because they somehow started charging their tablet with their Bluetooth headset charger.
Someone also mentioned the black wallpaper that might help with the battery consumption - I believe that is only helpful on AMOLED screens that Samsung has used on other devices.
I'm really still on the fence on keeping it after I bought this - I'm coming from a GT 7.7 which had excellent build quality,screen, and battery life. The loss of the AMOLED screen for both graphics and battery efficiency is bothering me. I put both up side by side and feel disappointed that Samsung couldn't just make a JB updated 7.7 with new CPU, 2GB RAM, and stylus with the same design and beautiful Super AMOLED Plus screen. It's not even the price - but just feeling like I'm getting a somewhat inferior device (in a few but important aspects) from the 7.7, when it's supposed to be an upgrade to the older device.
I've seen the news about an upgrade to the 7.7 possibly coming, but will it come with the stylus that is also important to me and the other software enhancements from the Note 8?
Bagbug said:
dumbest thing wrote in this thread probably. You do not need to train or do a full charge. How come people still believe that nonsense in 2013 ??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Funny thing happened on mine.
The battery was VERY BAD the second day, but it could play live streaming for two hours when the battery was 1%. As soon as the tablet went off due to depleted battery, I charged it until it went all the way until the "full battery" came up.
After that, the battery is much better now, so don't say anything "dumb" or any nonsense because it works.
rEVOLVE said:
Someone also mentioned the black wallpaper that might help with the battery consumption - I believe that is only helpful on AMOLED screens
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is correct, having a black background does not effect battery life on LCD screens.
On AMOLED screens, black pixels are actually not emitting light (while pixels displaying other colors emit light), which is why a black background will cause less battery drain than other colors.
On an LCD, the liquid crystal layer that depicts the colors is not itself a source of light. Its lit from the back, and the light intensity of the backlight is the same regardless of what color is being displayed. How much light is blocked or let though by the liquid crystal layer varies depending on their alignment (what color is being displayed). But this doesn't affect how bright the backlight is, anymore than pulling a window blind makes the sun burn less hydrogen.
Speedy Gonzalez said:
Battery life is great here after 5 cycles running it to 1% and recharging full at first it was draining faster but now I can watch 4 hours of netflix and still have 25% left nice thing is that the battery charges superfast so no worries
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only four hours? My Nexus 7 averages about 10.5 hours of Netflix with 10% left. I wonder how other note 8's compare?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
Speaking for myself I've always been kinda aware of the failure potential of these batteries. For instance, I tend to not leave the phone unattended during charging and also use such tasker profiles as to shutdown when charge below 5% or alert when charging above 95%. These latter measures and others are mostly to help with battery longevity as well as or rather my ocdness on this subject.
My only gripe is that I never succeeded in instilling the same 'respect' for battery in my wife.. Pre or even post-note she always forgets her tablet or her phone plugged in the charger, even when no one's at home, sometimes for days!
But this recent note7 'mishap' let me tell you, made me even more wary of the destructive potential of the batteries in our phones. Especially since most of my latest snapdragon devices (m7, z5) get very warm while performing various mundane tasks (syncing via wifi/lte, camera, games rendering etc), much warmer then the defunct note.
Did this event affect the way you use your mobile devices and how? Is there any particular strategy you use with this respect? Or do you rather think that the failure rate being so low it's rather silly to worry about it?
millicent said:
Did this event affect the way you use your mobile devices and how?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, it hasn't made me change anything so far. I don't believe the issue with the Note 7 is directly a result of the battery since Samsung had two manufacturers make batteries and in both instances Note 7 devices with either battery still failed.
Is there any particular strategy you use with this respect?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as the device is working properly meaning there's no defect that I am aware of (as in no global recall in effect, etc) in any part of the power or charging systems then I tend to leave my devices plugged in until they charge to 100% status then I'll usually leave them connected to the charger for up to 30 minutes past that point then disconnect. With the GS7A I have, I only charge it once every 2.5-3 days typically and that's from 5-10% back to 100% using a Samsung 2A charger - I don't use the factory fast charger and I don't use fast charging because I believe that ends up shortening the potential lifespan of the battery cell itself.
I did not say that's a fact for everyone to live by or accept as the gospel truth, I said for myself personally I believe that fast charging shortens the lifespan of the battery cell itself.
For the record I've owned several hundred devices over the decades, some with Ni-Cad batteries, most with Li-Ion over the past decade, and a few with Li-Po technolology and I only had one instance of a battery having a problem (not a failure). It was a knockoff cheap Chinese clone battery for my Galaxy S4 Active several years ago and it bloated up one afternoon - thankfully that GS4A had a removable back cover and I caught the swelling up very fast because as soon as it started to bloat up the back cover literally popped off about 4 inches above my desk and landed on my keyboard. I of course took the battery out immediately and put it in a small ceramic box my Wife had laying around, nothing else happened and I ended up taking it to a local battery store here in Las Vegas and turning it in for safe destruction.
See, there really is a good reason to have removable batteries and removable back covers on some devices.
Or do you rather think that the failure rate being so low it's rather silly to worry about it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As stated above, I don't believe the actual point of failure with the Note 7 is the battery directly - the burning up and explosions of the battery cells is the effect, not the cause. Something is happening to cause the battery (now two different ones, which most of us know about now) to fail.
Now it remains to be seen if the cause can be determined for the failures.
There is one other, perhaps more placebo induced effect, routine I'd do every once in a while, related to battery calibration. So I'd let the battery go as low as can possibly go, or let it turn off by itself, charge at cold until 100% then power on while still plugged in and finally unplug when os fully booted up.
Is this still a proper thing to do or it rather stresses the battery uselessly?
After I got this GS7A I did allow it to run down entirely till it shut off once, just one time and I actually got concerned because when I then plugged in the charger all I got on the display was a battery outline (the white battery icon that's hollowed out) and I was expecting the lightning-bolt symbol to appear there to indicate yes it's charging, after which it should change into the progress meter along the inside bottom of the icon.
That didn't happen.
So I sat there waiting. 5 minutes went by, then about 10 minutes, and I started to worry that perhaps I'd just killed it completely. But about 11 minutes after I plugged in the charger the lightning bolt appeared for about 10 seconds, flashing a few times, then I saw a thin green line across the bottom. Success!
But it did pretty much scare me for a few minutes at the thought of potentially ruining it by doing that so, I don't intend to ever let that happen. Your practice you mentioned of using Tasker to shut down at 5% (not a complete discharge like I did that one time) and to stop charging at 95% is a good idea and something I'm going to have to do more research into.
I've spent a lot of time over the years reading research papers at Battery University and I know that full discharge of a Li-Ion cell is a bad idea but I still ended up doing it. I was actually trying to capture a screenshot at 1% then I planned to initiate a shutdown immediately after that but taking the screenshot just killed it, oops.
But the idea of shutdown at maybe 4% and stopping the charging at 95% (or at least providing me with some kind of alert I can hear clearly and charge or disconnect as required) is a very good idea so thanks for mentioning that.
My research and understanding of the available info at Battery University is that it's better to do your best to not let a Li-Ion cell go below at least 30-40% charged most of the time with short periods of charging to bring it back up to the 90-95% point and, and occasionally - like maybe once a month - allow it to go deeper into the discharge state but not fully (I learned my lesson on that one) and then charge it back to full. The question is what that "full" point might be because some papers say charging Li-Ion to full capacity ruins them as time passes and other papers say it's just fine to do so occasionally - the problem is there's no absolute consensus on either method.
The deep discharge method once a month might work better as a method of calibrating (?!?!) but I honestly don't know for sure, not sure anyone does. But I think I'm going to start using Tasker for that 4-5% shutdown and 95% top off point on my Active, it sure can't actually hurt the device and could give me longer battery lifespan or should I say longevity as you did - that word actually seems more appropriate because most folks hear "battery lifespan" and they only understand that to mean how long it runs on a single charge which isn't the meaning I'm trying to get across.
all i can say after this incident , my knowledge of ion battery deepen and yes in case of emergency , you cant remove if its seal tight shut inside , something to consider , Samsung .
for me, no it's not made me more wary, I always am re Li cells as there have been many failures not only in phones. I have laptops, eCigs, torches etc that all use Li cells. That said, I use the devices as "normal" but stay aware of how warm they've gotten in charge/use, try to not drop them or leave them on/in a source of external heating etc. Anything containing combustible material can go bang after all. A disposable lighter left on an iron fireplace with the fire burning goes bang very well indeed, as would one of these cells in the same circumstances
I tend to top off the charge regularly since I have Qi chargers on my desk and in the car holder but never charge overnight while I sleep. I'd guess my operating capacity ranges from 100% down to maybe 30% and mainly hanging in the 60-80% range as the device tops up. SatNav tends to mean in-car the device only gathers a minor gain even over a couple hours use as the draw from the screen/cpu offsets the input from the Qi charger plate. The phone of course gets warm in this mode, hence it is set halfway down on the centre dash rather than up high and in the sun. And no I'm not always looking at it - voice guidance is very handy
On charge levels, I've also read a number of articles on various cell types. Typically the recommendations are that Li cells effectively eat themselves if kept at 100%, degrading and losing capacity over time. Hence its best if storing them to have them at 50-70% and not fully charged. Of course whether the phone actually takes the cell to its 100% limit or its charge management calls 100% at the 95% of cell capacity I don't know. When fully discharge has happened then yes it does seem to take longer for the charge icon to start ticking along, seen the same on the old iPad-1 I have, probably because the initial part has to be a very slow energising charge to get the cell to a point when it can accept more current and maybe the icon only shows rates above a certain current.
re the swelling cell. I've not used non-Samsung cells in my note 1/3 or S2 but have seen Sammy's cells also swell when they get to end of life. Both notes had this happen around the 18-26 month mark but not to the extent of the back popping off/open. Dramatic shortening of on-battery runtime yes, but from the outside no real visible indications that anything was up.
NO, LiPo, and Li ion batts are everywhere why worry about, I have had dozens of LiPo an LiOn powered devices
What about Li-On batteries though?
Hasn't changed for me either. But it has made me more wary of Samsung devices. There no way I'm getting the s8 (or note 8) no matter how great the features are. They can't even figure out what's wrong with the note 7.. Who's to say their upcoming phones won't have the same problem.
The only thing that worries me is that it may become even harder to get batteries and such shipped to Hawaii, it's horrible.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N930A using Tapatalk
So I have the wireless charging mod and I have several wireless chargers “All the same brand and model” I mostly only use two. The one beside my bed and the one at work. I know this is going to sound crazy but when I use the charger beside my bed and charge to %100 the battery life is not nearly as long. It is enough to be VERY noticeable I have tested and compared like 6 times. Charging on both to 100% and just let the phone sit for an hour and when it is charged by the one beside my bed it drains about 20% faster. Can a charger effect battery life in this way????
Based on my experiences... yes!
enetec said:
Based on my experiences... yes!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've never had that happen till now. I wonder if that particular charger is going bad or something
X_man. said:
I've never had that happen till now. I wonder if that particular charger is going bad or something
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Experiment... swap the chargers? bring the work one home and vice versa? maybe different mains or "dirty mains" could be the culprit? see if the issue follows the charger or area?
Uzephi said:
Experiment... swap the chargers? bring the work one home and vice versa? maybe different mains or "dirty mains" could be the culprit? see if the issue follows the charger or area?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea! I'll do that next week and post what happens.
X_man. said:
Great idea! I'll do that next week and post what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any time. I personally ran into that. It wasn't 20% more like 5% (average 3hr drain on my old Rezound was 2hrs and 45mins when charged from work. It was due to ingress on my work's lines that wasn't there at home. We had little oddities with some PC's until we found the UPS for our server was causing noise on our circuits).
This is absolutely normal. I build custom vape systems, some on li-poly Batts, some on li-ion. In both cases, charge rate -can- drastically affect charge effectiveness.
Most of this in your case likely has to do with thermal reads. Remember, not only is your phone and charger loaded with chips to be smart and safe about the charge, the battery (and sometimes individual cells within it) are also microchipped. Wireless charging creates a lot of heat. Should any one of the three components recognize this heat as excessive, the voltage will drop. I _believe_ this is most relevant during the end of "saturation" phase during charging, because if the battery says "no" during this phase, or anytime after (during completion/final) , the charger's subsequent "topping-charge" will also be denied. This kind of results in cycle of the charger saying "take it!" , The battery saying "no", dropping the voltage, the charger seeing the drop and expecting it to need a top-off and immediately trying to push again, repeat. The reason you're seeing the difference is because the charger is getting it's numbers from current output from the battery. The battery can drop down to zero current when overheated to prevent thermal rail? From occurring, which the charger then translates " 0 current must mean full".
That's one part of the difference, and not necessarily what is occurring... The other part has to do with manufacturing intent. Most USB 3.1/c power supplies are actually pushing out the maximum amperage and thus has a huge stage-1 charging state, with a minimum stage-2 (saturation) charging state. This basically translates into , your charger and phone are both lying when you rapid charge.
I'm sure I'm missing some facets or misrepresenting them here as I can't remember all the damn physics, but short story is: for absolute saturation, battery life, battery runtime, and safety... Charge at the same rate as battery discharge.
Edit: also what Uzephi mentioned about dirty power is also relevant. When power factors are not near 1.0 (1:1, meaning everything drawn is used, and everything requested is given), bad sh*t happens. This actually relates to the physical wave (sinusoidal) of electricity. All the anomalies are probably listed somewhere by some physicist, but suffice to say, there's a lot of possibilities, none of them "good" when out-of-phase power factors occur. This is why sensitive equipment almost always gets run through a power conditioner. The more sensitive and volatile the system, the more aggressive the conditioner needs to be (hence massive amplifiers for sound systems like the ones I use in my work need $200 glorified power strips).
Some_Donkus said:
This is absolutely normal. I build custom vape systems, some on li-poly Batts, some on li-ion. In both cases, charge rate -can- drastically affect charge effectiveness.
Most of this in your case likely has to do with thermal reads. Remember, not only is your phone and charger loaded with chips to be smart and safe about the charge, the battery (and sometimes individual cells within it) are also microchipped. Wireless charging creates a lot of heat. Should any one of the three components recognize this heat as excessive, the voltage will drop. I _believe_ this is most relevant during the end of "saturation" phase during charging, because if the battery says "no" during this phase, or anytime after (during completion/final) , the charger's subsequent "topping-charge" will also be denied. This kind of results in cycle of the charger saying "take it!" , The battery saying "no", dropping the voltage, the charger seeing the drop and expecting it to need a top-off and immediately trying to push again, repeat. The reason you're seeing the difference is because the charger is getting it's numbers from current output from the battery. The battery can drop down to zero current when overheated to prevent thermal rail? From occurring, which the charger then translates " 0 current must mean full".
That's one part of the difference, and not necessarily what is occurring... The other part has to do with manufacturing intent. Most USB 3.1/c power supplies are actually pushing out the maximum amperage and thus has a huge stage-1 charging state, with a minimum stage-2 (saturation) charging state. This basically translates into , your charger and phone are both lying when you rapid charge.
I'm sure I'm missing some facets or misrepresenting them here as I can't remember all the damn physics, but short story is: for absolute saturation, battery life, battery runtime, and safety... Charge at the same rate as battery discharge.
Edit: also what Uzephi mentioned about dirty power is also relevant. When power factors are not near 1.0 (1:1, meaning everything drawn is used, and everything requested is given), bad sh*t happens. This actually relates to the physical wave (sinusoidal) of electricity. All the anomalies are probably listed somewhere by some physicist, but suffice to say, there's a lot of possibilities, none of them "good" when out-of-phase power factors occur. This is why sensitive equipment almost always gets run through a power conditioner. The more sensitive and volatile the system, the more aggressive the conditioner needs to be (hence massive amplifiers for sound systems like the ones I use in my work need $200 glorified power strips).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some very good points! Doesn't seem quite as strange now LOL Thanks!
@Some_Donkus than for your complete explanation...
I've found even "about same rate" chargers (measured on phones...) often differs in heating battery: on my old Moto Z, the OnePlus X charger and the Samsung Galaxy Tab one both charged my phone (quite fast...), BUT the first heated it A LOT more, while the second hot A LOT itself!!
I think it's related to components quality too...
What I don't undestand well is why the Incipio MotoMod battery, which charge the phone at quite low rate, is able to heat it more than fast chargers....!?!?
enetec said:
@Some_Donkus than for your complete explanation...
I've found even "about same rate" chargers (measured on phones...) often differs in heating battery: on my old Moto Z, the OnePlus X charger and the Samsung Galaxy Tab one both charged my phone (quite fast...), BUT the first heated it A LOT more, while the second hot A LOT itself!!
I think it's related to components quality too...
What I don't undestand well is why the Incipio MotoMod battery, which charge the phone at quite low rate, is able to heat it more than fast chargers....!?!?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Without knowing the specific charge voltage and stage setup of the individual batteries it's tough to speculate. One thing that comes in mind relates back to the power factors I was speaking of. It might actually be a high quality device that just has a lot of extra MOSFET + capacitors built in. These are used in order to "clean and manage" power on the fly. Capacitors are used to provide extra little bumps of discharge / supply when the battery cells themselves can't necessarily output enough mA/amp in a peak. MOSFETs do the opposite, providing a safe gateway for extra unused power either coming into the device from the battery, or from outside power to charging battery...
Both of these little guys basically are giant heat retainers (MOSFETs actually usually have heatsinks pasted to them, even the micro sized ones used in small devices)....
Just a thought.
Some_Donkus said:
...
Just a thought.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it surely could be but two weird things still happen with Incipio battery MOD (and, they say, NOT with the new Turbo Power which do fast charging instead! ):
- the overheat seems to be coming from the phone and not from the battery MOD...
- the Incipio battery MOD I have adds wireless charging too to the phone. What it's weird is that wireless charging phone (by the same rear connector on the phone) seems to overheat it less than using battery to charge it... (and battery charge rate is a bit lower...).
I think it could be related from the fact that battery MOD has probably to raise his voltage to charge phone... but strangely this overheats more phone than battery...!
enetec said:
Well, it surely could be but two weird things still happen with Incipio battery MOD (and, they say, NOT with the new Turbo Power which do fast charging instead! ):
- the overheat seems to be coming from the phone and not from the battery MOD...
- the Incipio battery MOD I have adds wireless charging too to the phone. What it's weird is that wireless charging phone (by the same rear connector on the phone) seems to overheat it less than using battery to charge it... (and battery charge rate is a bit lower...).
I think it could be related from the fact that battery MOD has probably to raise his voltage to charge phone... but strangely this overheats more phone than battery...!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ohhh, I see what you're saying...
Okay well, from what I understand, the Incipio Wireless mod actually charges the phone's battery first, THEN the pack within the mod. By default, magnetic induction (wireless charging method) actually will charge everything and anything within the field simultaneously.. but.. what I assume the incipio mod does is this....
Wireless charger sends out induction wave > (Induction wave charges both internal battery and mod for a moment) > Incipio mod get's a mV current reading from phone's internal battery > If internal phone battery mV current is ≠ 0, Incipio mod uses MOSFET's to gate-drain incoming charge from wireless for X amount of time (and possibly send charge to internal battery via connectors) + > induction wave continues to charge internal phone battery > Incipio takes another mV current reading from phone battery to see if it's full >>>
Cycle continues until Incipio gets mV current reading = 0, at which point it stops using gate-drains and accepts induction wave charge.
^^^ -IF- that's accurate, then it would mean that the Incipio mod is passing it's charge into the phone battery (received from induction wave) at the same time that the internal phone battery is receiving the induction wave from pad... So that internal battery is receiving a shiz-load of joose quickly...
again, pure speculation.... but it would make sense...
Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.
minhntp said:
Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also felt the same...Though the charging speed on custom roms is higher...in terms of stability of current, Stock Rom is the best.
minhntp said:
Hello everybody.
I just want to share with you guys what I found out.
I've been using custom ROMs and custom kernels for LG V30, and I faced a lot of issues. The most common issue is overheating, especially on charging or using mobile data.
I use Anker's adapter that supports Quick Charge 3.0, and an Anker USB-C to USB-3.0 cable. I use Ampere app to see how the battery is charge.
On custom ROMs, the ampere number (mA) changes every few seconds, jumps up and down with big gap, and the phone gets very hot.
On stock ROM (US99820H) in my case, mA number is very stable. It increases or decreases slowly and doesn't jump up and down. On plugging in, min and max mA are equal. The phone is just a little bit hotter than before plugging in.
So I just wanted to share my own experience with you guys. If you want you phone to last long, use Stock ROMs, disable bloatwares and useless system apps.
I'm going to purchase the battery and change it myself for better battery life. I wanted to change to another phone but for now, this is the best phone for music.
Please discuss if you disagree with me or have a solution for custom ROMs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In terms of stability, I have different results, when I charge using a custom rom the phone tends to stay cool, but when I used the stock rom the phone got a lot hotter then before charging.
Custom ROMs may not be utilizing QC properly. QC 2.0 has few discrete voltage/current steps, while QC 3.0 has many (200mA increments iirc) designed to strike a balance between charging speed and heat. Maybe it's getting stuck in QC 2.0 mode and the temperature feedback isn't working properly?
You could just use a non-fast-charging wireless charger, if you're only charging up at night. 5v/~1A is pretty much harmless, it's just on the slow side of things.
fyi, battery capacity (as tracked by the charging controller driver, I guess) is stored at sys/class/power_supply/bms/charge_full; it defaults to design capacity until a full charge cycle has been completed* and then I suppose is revised each time the driver tracks less energy has been stored after a complete charge. Cycle count, cell resistance and a couple other things are also stored here. I think all values are persistent until the battery is physically disconnected.
Might be worth doing a full discharge+charge (to 100%, then let it sit for a few hours to saturate) to see if your battery is worn enough to warrant pulling the phone apart. Accubattery does seem to be more or less accurate, so you charge while it's on you can get a real-time idea of how much has gone in.
* a full charge might be from 1% to 100%. It might be from 5% to 100%. Who knows! I've charged from 2% to 100% a couple times and not had cycle_count increase.
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
edit: hmm, thinking about it...bms = Battery Management System? (not this one specifically, of course)
Septfox said:
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is possible that you bought a smaller battery - but you should know that the capacity of Li** batteries increases within the first couple of cycles. Also usually the nominal capacity might be different from the real (typical) capacity. So you would need to meassure a.new original battery against your replacement battery (not take the value LG tells us for.granted)
daniu said:
It is possible that you bought a smaller battery - but you should know that the capacity of Li** batteries increases within the first couple of cycles. Also usually the nominal capacity might be different from the real (typical) capacity. So you would need to meassure a.new original battery against your replacement battery (not take the value LG tells us for.granted)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Li-po capacity hasn't really gone anywhere in a while, and I wouldn't expect cheap eBay batteries to be using the newest and best chemistry. It was definitely undersize/weight; I attached some pictures.
Because I wanted to be absolutely sure before I called the seller on it, I purposefully ran it four full cycles, then built up another two during normal use. The best capacity that the BMS ever rated it for was 2980mah, while Accubattery put in something like...3060mah once with subsequent charges in the 2900-3000 range.
While I get what you're saying, I find it unlikely that the BMS would set to the expected design capacity if they were using undersize batteries from the factory.
The reason being that at a guess, the battery "fuel gauge" is probably based on capacity_full, which = capacity_full_design until set. With a new phone that isn't charged to 100% (thus setting capacity_full), if using the phone down to 1% you'd risk either a) the phone suddenly shutting down at ~10% or b) overdischarge damage if the battery is actually less than the phone's design capacity.
Kind of a corner case though, I'll admit, since this would only be on the first run.
Last, I submit my own OEM battery for consideration: prior to taking it out, it had accumulated 537 cycles and had a recorded capacity of 2485mah. That's about what I'd expect from a 3300mah battery that was almost certainly used "normally" e.g. discharged daily, charged nightly and left on the tap at full charge for hours on end.
Like you said, though, the only way to know for sure would be testing a new OEM battery, and we've been fresh out of those for a year and a half now. Maybe someone could nab one from one of their newer models and test for science? I already have too many spare lipo cells laying around.
Septfox said:
Custom ROMs may not be utilizing QC properly. QC 2.0 has few discrete voltage/current steps, while QC 3.0 has many (200mA increments iirc) designed to strike a balance between charging speed and heat. Maybe it's getting stuck in QC 2.0 mode and the temperature feedback isn't working properly?
You could just use a non-fast-charging wireless charger, if you're only charging up at night. 5v/~1A is pretty much harmless, it's just on the slow side of things.
fyi, battery capacity (as tracked by the charging controller driver, I guess) is stored at sys/class/power_supply/bms/charge_full; it defaults to design capacity until a full charge cycle has been completed* and then I suppose is revised each time the driver tracks less energy has been stored after a complete charge. Cycle count, cell resistance and a couple other things are also stored here. I think all values are persistent until the battery is physically disconnected.
Might be worth doing a full discharge+charge (to 100%, then let it sit for a few hours to saturate) to see if your battery is worn enough to warrant pulling the phone apart. Accubattery does seem to be more or less accurate, so you charge while it's on you can get a real-time idea of how much has gone in.
* a full charge might be from 1% to 100%. It might be from 5% to 100%. Who knows! I've charged from 2% to 100% a couple times and not had cycle_count increase.
Also, if you do go shopping, beware of undersized batteries. I bought an "OE spec" battery a while ago that was obviously thinner and lighter than the original; it weighed some 12.5% less and only took a 3000mah charge, more or less lining up with the reduced weight. The seller was "tele*cell", and I very much doubt they're the only ones pulling this crap. Record the contents of power_supply/bms if they're important to you, too, as they zero out upon battery disconnect.
edit: hmm, thinking about it...bms = Battery Management System? (not this one specifically, of course)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have sleep problem after changing the battery? After changing the battery, my phone doesn't go to sleep when the screen is off, so the battery just keeps draining. I'm using stock ROM. I don't know if this is a software of hardware issue.
minhntp said:
Do you have sleep problem after changing the battery? After changing the battery, my phone doesn't go to sleep when the screen is off, so the battery just keeps draining. I'm using stock ROM. I don't know if this is a software of hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only thing notable that happened was the battery stats getting wiped. Otherwise the phone behaved normally.
Try getting BetterBatteryStats, second post has the newest apk attached (2.3 iirc).
Start it up to get it established, Set Custom Ref. from the menu, shut the screen off for...ehh...20min.
Turn it back on, select Custom in the left drop-down menu and Current in the right drop-down menu.
Check Kernel Wakelocks and Partial Wakelocks using the top drop-down menu to see if anything sticks out.
Septfox said:
Li-po capacity hasn't really gone anywhere in a while, and I wouldn't expect cheap eBay batteries to be using the newest and best chemistry. It was definitely undersize/weight; I attached some pictures.
Because I wanted to be absolutely sure before I called the seller on it, I purposefully ran it four full cycles, then built up another two during normal use. The best capacity that the BMS ever rated it for was 2980mah, while Accubattery put in something like...3060mah once with subsequent charges in the 2900-3000 range.
While I get what you're saying, I find it unlikely that the BMS would set to the expected design capacity if they were using undersize batteries from the factory.
The reason being that at a guess, the battery "fuel gauge" is probably based on capacity_full, which = capacity_full_design until set. With a new phone that isn't charged to 100% (thus setting capacity_full), if using the phone down to 1% you'd risk either a) the phone suddenly shutting down at ~10% or b) overdischarge damage if the battery is actually less than the phone's design capacity.
Kind of a corner case though, I'll admit, since this would only be on the first run.
Last, I submit my own OEM battery for consideration: prior to taking it out, it had accumulated 537 cycles and had a recorded capacity of 2485mah. That's about what I'd expect from a 3300mah battery that was almost certainly used "normally" e.g. discharged daily, charged nightly and left on the tap at full charge for hours on end.
Like you said, though, the only way to know for sure would be testing a new OEM battery, and we've been fresh out of those for a year and a half now. Maybe someone could nab one from one of their newer models and test for science? I already have too many spare lipo cells laying around.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is the full capacity when you put those 2 battery in?
I just bought a battery. This new one has 6 symbols each line (like the one you bought) and 2 lines of manufactured date. The old (original) one has 5 symbols each line and also 2 lines of manufatured date.
When I check "charge_full" after full charging, it shows 3312000 for the original battery and 3230000 for the new one, while the "charge_full_design" being 3312000 for both battery.
minhntp said:
What is the full capacity when you put those 2 battery in?
I just bought a battery. This new one has 6 symbols each line (like the one you bought) and 2 lines of manufactured date. The old (original) one has 5 symbols each line and also 2 lines of manufatured date.
When I check "charge_full" after full charging, it shows 3312000 for the original battery and 3230000 for the new one, while the "charge_full_design" being 3312000 for both battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All three batteries I've had showed the same 3312000 charge_full_design. But I'm not sure if this is relevant to us, aside from as a reference to compare to.
Out of curiosity and so I don't purposely give outright bad information, I went and looked at the kernel (up on github courtesy of lunar-kernels).
3300mah design capacity is set when the kernel is built (BLT34 battery profile, which is grabbed by the power manager).
I'm not sure where the number "3312000" specifically is coming from. I can't read the source for the BMS well enough to tell why it's coming up with that number, aside from it's a calculated result based on more than just the design capacity.
Based on the above and other behavior, I don't think any permanent information is stored with or retrieved from the battery itself; design parameters are set in the BLT34 profile and then the BMS amends certain things as it takes measurements. It assumes that whatever attached battery is actually 3300/3312mah until proven otherwise (calibrated with sufficient cycling).
Said measurements are stored ~somewhere~ outside of the ROM, recovery and download mode - mine persisted through the LAFsploit process and TWRP on both partitions - and cleared when power is lost. Maybe they're stored in RAM somewhere? Maybe the BMS notices the discontinuity in power and assumes a battery change, resetting everything? I'll try making sense of the kernel source to see...
The labeling difference is curious, and something I hadn't really given thought to. The newer ones have NOM and NYCE marks, which are Mexican safety approval things. It's interesting that the originals don't have them; maybe because LG doesn't make phones for the Mexican market and thus saw no need? I doubt these third-party manufacturers have gone out of their way to actually obtain said approval...probably just stuck them there to satisfy customs.
I bought a battery from another seller and installed it this weekend; it uses the 12-symbol style as well, has date+date code like the original (dated a rather shiny 2019.09.08!), and weighs the expected 48g/has an OE-style "stepped" back making it thicker.
Seems to charge fully and otherwise work as expected. charge_full still = charge_full_design, I'm not sure if this is because the BMS has determined that it's an OEM-capacity battery, or it hasn't cycled sufficiently to update. Gonna keep an eye on it. Pictures attached.
Edit: battery listing on ebay. Note if anyone else buys it: the suction cup that came with mine was 100% useless. Plan accordingly.
-
A further note on the smaller battery I bought: it did perform admirably. It had no issues when using the phone as a power supply (~2.5A sustained output), right down to where I stopped it at 5%, which is rather abusive for cells in this form-factor. It was just...well...smaller. It certainly wasn't a bad battery at all, it was just misrepresented. Lighter/slightly-smaller batteries would make great travel batteries, if the V30 were swap-friendly...
-
@Septfox
I hope you bought a good one.
The battery I bought lasts long, but also takes long to charge (about 2 hours). The phone shows fast-charging but when I check battery log in Hidden menu, it shows only Quick charge 2.0.
I found a way to reset the battery information, hopefully sellers don't use this to reset the cycle count.
There's a thread on xda that shows a method to reset battery information on HTC phones. That is holding down 2 volume buttons + power button (volume down + power for LG V30) in 2 minutes while the phone is being charged, let the phone restart as many times it takes in 2 minutes. And then charge the phone to full.
I did that and when I check in Hidden menu, the battery information was resetted to 3312000 full capacity and 0 cycle count.
minhntp said:
@Septfox
The battery I bought lasts long, but also takes long to charge (about 2 hours). The phone shows fast-charging but when I check battery log in Hidden menu, it shows only Quick charge 2.0.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
QC 3.0 wouldn't outright increase the speed any; it exists to help reduce heat and provide more consistent charging.
If it makes you feel any better, mine is also getting stuck on QC 2.0. Judging by the way the Parallel Charging status flickers on and off as I move the cable and put pressure on the connector, I could probably stand to get a new charging port...
This is why wireless charging is a good idea. But now that I think about it, replacement boards are cheap on ebay ($5), so replacing it each time the battery is changed might be a good bit of cheap maintenance to do :good:
Have you tried a different cable and/or charger to see if your charging improves? Maybe you need a new port, too.
minhntp said:
I found a way to reset the battery information, hopefully sellers don't use this to reset the cycle count.
There's a thread on xda that shows a method to reset battery information on HTC phones. That is holding down 2 volume buttons + power button (volume down + power for LG V30) in 2 minutes while the phone is being charged, let the phone restart as many times it takes in 2 minutes. And then charge the phone to full.
I did that and when I check in Hidden menu, the battery information was resetted to 3312000 full capacity and 0 cycle count.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find this slightly alarming, actually...
The normal button combination to hard-reset the phone is power+vol down. This might just be what's happening, and by making the phone do it repeatedly, the firmware might be interpreting it as a bootloop condition caused by something in memory and completely disconnecting power in an attempt to mitigate it (clearing the battery stats in the process). Probably harmless though.
Dunno that a seller would bother trying it, though. What do they get out of it, other than a seemingly-new battery with less capacity than it should have? It would just recalibrate when charged and show the real capacity in the hidden menu, and the game would be up :v
Septfox said:
QC 3.0 wouldn't outright increase the speed any; it exists to help reduce heat and provide more consistent charging.
If it makes you feel any better, mine is also getting stuck on QC 2.0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All V30 always show QuickCharge 2.0 in Nougat as well as Oreo. Not sure about Pie.
Speculation was it was a script error, that it was really 3.0 -- but falsely shows 2.0.
Can't remember if it was ever proven one way or the other.
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
I'm still on rooted Oreo, so I don't care.
ChazzMatt said:
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't notice my phone charging any different. Even when using wired.
Sent from my LG-H932 using XDA Labs
ChazzMatt said:
All V30 always show QuickCharge 2.0 in Nougat as well as Oreo. Not sure about Pie.
Speculation was it was a script error, that it was really 3.0 -- but falsely shows 2.0.
Can't remember if it was ever proven one way or the other.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I read "the display may not be correct, so you should totally use this as an excuse to get a newer charger-doctor that supports QC".
...and you're completely right, I'm gonna go do that :v
ChazzMatt said:
I do remember people say it now charges slower on Pie. Again speculative because LG knows batteries are older?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Or to mitigate further aging by reducing internal heat. I also remember seeing somewhere that it was limited to 12w or 13w, now that you mention it, though that might have been for 15w wireless which has a reputation for slow-cooking the battery (in any phone, not just the V30).