Develop Bugs

[Q] Broke Amazon Fire Tv box?

I brought a new amazon fire tv box. I am not looking to root. I booted it up, it updated. I connected to my network. Downloaded Netflix tried to watch Netflix and it gave me a error. So I unplugged the box to reboot. Plugged it back up and nothing. The unit won't power on. So I did an RMA and got a new one.
Got the new one, powered it up, took the update, downloaded Netflix, same error on not playing. Used the remote to put unit in sleep mode. And now the unit won't come back on. Did I get two bad units? Is there any hope in getting this thing to boot back up?
Any thoughts?

nighthawk777 said:
I brought a new amazon fire tv box. I am not looking to root. I booted it up, it updated. I connected to my network. Downloaded Netflix tried to watch Netflix and it gave me a error. So I unplugged the box to reboot. Plugged it back up and nothing. The unit won't power on. So I did an RMA and got a new one.
Got the new one, powered it up, took the update, downloaded Netflix, same error on not playing. Used the remote to put unit in sleep mode. And now the unit won't come back on. Did I get two bad units? Is there any hope in getting this thing to boot back up?
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is some strange stuff...netflix errors are common but a reboot almost always fixes it. I don't know what's going on but amazon actually has great customer service so make a call and more than likely they'll either walk you through it or possibly send you a new one.

i have the same issue, it stopped working after a day. No power LED no nothing.
I was holding "select and play" in an attempt to restart the box because i encountered sluggish performance on Kodi.
Afterwhich, i am not able to turn it back on again despite changing socket points and random clicking on the remote.
While i am waiting for a new set from Amazon, is there anyone who has encountered the same issue but have managed to power up the box??

I am in the exact same position ....
- new out of the box
- updated as part of the install process
- side-loaded Kodi with a "success" message
- rebooted as instructed with play and select for 5 seconds ....
- nothing, dead, no reboot, nothing, no light. Seems completely dead.
As the person above - let me know if you anyone has a thought.

brickspeed said:
I am in the exact same position ....
- new out of the box
- updated as part of the install process
- side-loaded Kodi with a "success" message
- rebooted as instructed with play and select for 5 seconds ....
- nothing, dead, no reboot, nothing, no light. Seems completely dead.
As the person above - let me know if you anyone has a thought.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was reading the feedback on Amazon fire tv product page, apparently we are not the only ones.
Based on the users' feedback, seems like Amazon engineers have acknowledged that it's a known issue. SCARY.

I have the exact same thing, there is definitely a bad batch going around.
My Fire TV arrived on Monday, 2/16/15. I plugged it in and took an update as part of the setup. I installed several apps and logged in to accounts, watched about 3 hours of stuff on it that night. The next day it was dead as a door nail. No lights, no amount of button mashing on the remote made any difference. I have a replacement being sent out. The AFTV is currently out of stock, I'm curious if this is related.

I read another person complaining another site. Do we have anything resembling a common link? It seems so far this is effecting non-rooted aftvs with the latest update but not all aftvs. Are all of these units relatively new? Purchase date?
I just want to figure out if it's hardware or software related. I purchased another one after Xmas and no issues so far.

Just got mine, set it up, used it maybe for 2 hours, unplugged, connected to the TV and same thing. Dead.

Haha same thing happened to me. Got Kodi and everything installed. Unplugged the Fire TV and now it's bricked.

same happened to me.
got my unit today installed kodi fine. Was using the llama method to get a kodi icon added to the home screen. needed a reboot and used the select+play method on remote and now it won't turn back on. Contacted amazon and they are sending me a new replacement.

teng247 said:
got my unit today installed kodi fine. Was using the llama method to get a kodi icon added to the home screen. needed a reboot and used the select+play method on remote and now it won't turn back on. Contacted amazon and they are sending me a new replacement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Anyone who have gotten their replacement units, may i know if you guys encounter the same issue again?
I am still waiting for my replacement set.

I'm guessing from the symptoms mentioned that it is their recent efuse blow up related. Maybe recent update did not update bootloader for some reason. If that so then box is not booting bootloader and sits in qualcomm recovery mode in which you can hook up it with usb "male a - male a" cable to pc and have full emmc access for flashing correct bootloader.

Add me on the list for a broken 1 day use on the AFTV. I sideloaded Kodi and was using it last night. Put it in sleep mode and then went to sleep myself. Woke up this morning and no lights/repsonse or anything on the box. Contacted Amazon customer support. One for the first few questions they asked is if I had sideloaded anything. I of course denied I did such a thing in case they try to back out of warranty issues. Customer Service Representative talks to her supervisor and instead of issuing a replacement unit they are sending me a new power adapter instead. Customer service rep states that her supervisor says from their experience that is usually the issue. I tell her with my voltage tester that i am detecting current running through the line. They still insist on power adapter.
Just to see if there is commonality among the AFTVs, did you guys get your boxes during the Sling TV promotion? Maybe a bad production batch?

How would side load affects the ability to power the box?? *puzzled*
There are so many users who did it, why does the issue only occurs recently.
An Amazon customer service told me this is not a common issue, but I have been seeing more and more of such cases.

All,
I have rooted at least 10 boxes, none fo my family or friends have report this issues. Of course, all these AFTV has Rbox pre-rooted firmware installed so i am going to guess folks who have reported this issues are non rooted boxes running the latest Amazon firmware.
It would ideal, If users who have reported this could provide the following info, this will help to identify a patter.
1) Serial number (it generally starts with 70900xxx)
3) Purchase date
4) Box purchased from?
4) Is your box rooted? If so what is have you installed (boatloader unlock (partial or fully) CWM, prerooted rom, ect)
5) what firmware is the box running (Amazon stock or Rbox), please provide the actual firmware version.
6) Was the firmware ever updated, if so from what version to what?
6) Sideloaded app
7) how long did you use the box before it went dead.
Thank you

tylerxm84 said:
How would side load affects the ability to power the box?? *puzzled*
There are so many users who did it, why does the issue only occurs recently.
An Amazon customer service told me this is not a common issue, but I have been seeing more and more of such cases.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not a "common issue" is pretty subjective. What matters is its happened to several people in a short span of time, and xda members account for a tiny percentage of aftv owners. I contacted amazon for a different issue recently and what I realized was that rep giving support has never actually used a fire TV.
I don't think its the efuse like another person mentioned here unless it blew and had unintended consequences. Efuse, I think, is supposed to put it in an "obscure recovery mode". The box should power on. It'd still be useless but the fact that it does nothing makes me think its not efuse related.
For curiosity sake I'd like to hear what happens if they try a different power supply. Not amazon stock as that's been tried. But that might be academic, those boxes seem dead and unrecoverable. Since amazon will surely send a replacement, I'd open it up and see if there's anything noticeable. You won't find a blown efuse since that's not visible to the naked eye.

KLit75 said:
I don't think its the efuse like another person mentioned here unless it blew and had unintended consequences. Efuse, I think, is supposed to put it in an "obscure recovery mode". The box should power on. It'd still be useless but the fact that it does nothing makes me think its not efuse related.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How you identified than box is not powering on? Front white led indicator initialized when bootloader is loaded, if bootloader blacklisted by efuse there will be no light on front panel.

Ck-NoSFeRaTU said:
How you identified than box is not powering on? Front white led indicator initialized when bootloader is loaded, if bootloader blacklisted by efuse there will be no light on front panel.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could very well be right. Just from reading vaguely about refuse, it renders the device useless but you would see something on the screen. I didn't think the light indicated boot loader. I thought it was an indication of power and it turns white when an internet connection is established. As far as I know...exactly how a blown refuse manifests on aftv has yet to be described.

KLit75 said:
You could very well be right. Just from reading vaguely about refuse, it renders the device useless but you would see something on the screen. I didn't think the light indicated boot loader. I thought it was an indication of power and it turns white when an internet connection is established. As far as I know...exactly how a blown refuse manifests on aftv has yet to be described.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had first hand experience with a blown efuse. After certain pre-rooted ROM was loaded, it was ON,After the first reboot, unit had no LED light, nothing on screen. Using A A USB cable I can see the file structures of the unit, I was able to partially recovered (lost root) afterward.
These new units show the exact symptoms, dead after first reboot.

Unit won't come back on
I have the same problem. I am on my second unit. It powered up correctly, I re-registered, and I re-selected my favorites, I watched one show. I finished and turned it off. Now, nothing! I cannot turn it back on. This was the same problem with the first unit. I've tried all the basic hardware fixes - new batteries, new HDMI, etc, but still nothing. I have followed all the basic troubleshooting suggestions from Amazon. Still nothing. Can someone please suggest the right fix?

[Unsolved] Screen issues

Video of the issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzIx9SHj6MQ&feature=youtu.be
According to my sister it has always had the screen "artifacts"as shown in the video where certain pixels are the wrong colours (which apparently never set off any alarm bells in her head... ). But apparently the screen and device stopped responding correctly a while back which i have been able to find out can be fixed by taking the back off the device. I can not use the recovery on the device since it just displays multicolored static on the screen, same thing happens when the device is plugged in to charge while powered off. I told her to get all important data off the device and factory reset it so the device is all at factory defaults to rule out software issues. After that didn't work i took the back off the device to check to see if the screen was connected correctly and to see if there were any obvious issues such as the cable being visibly damaged or disconnected etc.
Image of the issue when charging: http://i.imgur.com/Kat1RoC.jpg
So everything is stock on the device. It has never ran anything but official updates directly from Google.
The device is out of warranty and considering the cracks on the corners of the case i doubt Google/Asus would be happy to fix the device out of warranty without it getting expensive. It would be nice to fix it if it is possible or financially viable.
Any ideas and suggestions appreciated!

Have you tried a factory reset? If not, have you tried reflashing a stock rom, wiping everything?

dikidera said:
Have you tried a factory reset? If not, have you tried reflashing a stock rom, wiping everything?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It has been factory reset. I have not flashed a new ROM to it.
I have actually fixed that issue by putting some padding in to prevent the cable from flexing so much inside the case. So the device now functions as an e-reader and web browser. But it still cannot play video or cope with scrolling through images and so on due to the tearing. It gets worse the more that is updated on the screen. This may still be a cable issue.
I would flash a new kernel and ROM to the device but download mode doesn't work since no computer can recognize the device. In download mode and recovery the screen shows the static as shown in the image meaning i cant really use it easily. Since it is still running stock recovery i cant just flash a zip file, since download mode doesn't work it may be difficult to do the above.
But i only have experience with my own Galaxy S2 which runs custom everything. So my experience is with Odin and CWM, so i am not familiar with download mode for other manufacturers.

The second image, I know this. I was fiddling with the ribbon cables one day and I also got that distorted screen.
If it appears when charging, sounds like...the cable is not grounded or something and the signal(to/from the ribbon cable) is being distorted. But that is just a guess, it could be anything.

dikidera said:
The second image, I know this. I was fiddling with the ribbon cables one day and I also got that distorted screen.
If it appears when charging, sounds like...the cable is not grounded or something and the signal(to/from the ribbon cable) is being distorted. But that is just a guess, it could be anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its not exclusive to charging though therefore i dont think it is power related. It happens every single time the system displays something on screen outside of Android. So the charging screen, recovery and download mode are all displayed as that.

Have you tried fiddling with said cable when you get the distorted image, in an attempt to perhaps fix it? it's odd that it appears with system messages. This sounds more and more like a true hardware issue(a defective unit) than software or a "simple" ribbon cable problem.

dikidera said:
Have you tried fiddling with said cable when you get the distorted image, in an attempt to perhaps fix it? it's odd that it appears with system messages. This sounds more and more like a true hardware issue(a defective unit) than software or a "simple" ribbon cable problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not while it displays that image. But i have unplugged it and plugged it back in and nothing has helped.
My theory at the moment is that the cable is damaged meaning when the device tries to completely update the screen data goes missing and it struggles. Since videos dont work at all while the android flappy bird clone works flawlessly since it doesn't need to send as much data to update the screen due to the solid background colours and so on. But there are still holes in that theory, for example the issues become many many times worse when the device is in landscape mode.
So as far as i can tell it could be anything from heavily corrupted software to broken vram and anything in between including broken cable (since fiddling with that has fixed a different issue, perhaps its related) to the displays RAM for storing the previous screen update being broken. I can't tell.

Defective VRAM is also a possibility.
But I am not aware of any tool(for Android) that would allow for direct memory scanning of the VRAM. If you end up deciding the tablet is a goner, and want to buy a new one. I'd advise against another N7, it's already old, and the bugs are not worth the hassle.

dikidera said:
Defective VRAM is also a possibility.
But I am not aware of any tool(for Android) that would allow for direct memory scanning of the VRAM. If you end up deciding the tablet is a goner, and want to buy a new one. I'd advise against another N7, it's already old, and the bugs are not worth the hassle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, im not aware of any either. I have also been through all the relevant debugging tools. Telling the screen to flash on update actually made the device function much better (where it flashes pink on each update) it stopped the issues from being serious. But lets face it, no one is going to want to use a device with that debugging option left enabled.

Carperformance.se Uconnect Android system help.

I am hoping I can find some help in here with a couple problems I am running into on this system that would make it so much better to me.
The system is basically an Android box utilizing the touch screen and monitor of my Uconnect 8.4 head unit. The naming in the settings is rk3188 and is running on KitKat 4.4.4, so it is some variant of the Android TV boxes. If there are other specs or info that are needed to help in possibly fixing my issues please let me know.
Issue 1: although not major, there is no option to have OK Google from any screen. Having this option for a car system is obviously something helpful. In the settings of the Google App trying to access the menu for OK Google detection doesn't work, so I can't even get to the screen where that option lives. I have the most up to date version of Google App and Google Play Services. I have Google searched on ways to fix this but nothing has brought that ability up. I know Android version 4.4.4 was capable of this. There was another app that utilized Googles voice engine and allowed this function but Google made him stop using their servers and killed that as an option.
Issue 2: this is the biggest bother to me and I could not find anything even related to what's happening in my searches. The system comes loaded with some apps and using Launcher3 for its front end, it has big buttons but offers almost no ability to customize it. The bottom row has apps that you cannot switch out to anything else, and 3 of them I will never be using. The system works but is not as nice as it could look or function. The obvious answer is to use a different launcher which is where the problem arises. I have tried to use Nova and Apex so far with the same very frustrating outcome. After the install everything is great, I can set the screen up to look amazing and add icons and functionality that really make it a great experience. So everything is working lovely then I shut my truck off and go do whatever. The next time I come back I start the truck up everything loads fine, the new launcher and everything I did to it is working just as expected until about 5 minutes in the screen goes black for a second and then the system goes through a factory reset. Really? Are you kidding me? The first couple times I thought maybe I hit something because I hadn't fully put my truck back together but after playing with it more and having the system factory reset 5 other times I have concluded it is related to changing the launcher. I tried Nova first, then I tried Apex with the same outcome and same sequence of events. Obviously it's annoying everytime testing this because updating and reentering my info everytime just to try the launcher again is time consuming. The last test the only thing I did was a different launcher so that has to be it, but why and how can I fix it?
If anyone has any clue how using a different launcher would cause a factory reset to happen please help me out. Or if there is anything I can do to this system to prevent that. My last resort thought would be to root it but I read someone else who has this system that rooting it caused screen layout issues and made things go 90 degrees off? The loaded apps in the system have touch screen calibration and screen resizing which might be necessary for this to function with the monitor.
Thanks for any help.

I spoke with someone else that has the system and they are not having any issues with running a different launcher so something happen to my particular device. I contacted the company and they will be getting me the firmware to refresh it and hopefully that fixes the resetting issue.

i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?

RichTJ99 said:
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm getting a new unit sent out, it seems there are 2 versions and for whatever reason mine wouldn't let me customize the launcher.
But even though it's outdated, every app I tried worked just fine, they still install the latest versions. The system has 8gb of on board storage and a microSD card slot that is mainly for loading maps for offline navigation. I think you can still access it for other uses, but they have a better option for that. There is a USB input for flash drives or external drives. I tried my 2TB external drive on it and it accessed my movies fine from it.

How did you get it installed? Who?

got any pics?

Actually I would be interested in this too, I have an Alfa Romeo and the Uconnect 6.5 (european version) which isn't that great, it would be nice to attach a sort of box with ARM hardware running on Android and using the display and touch of the existing Uconnect. The question is, how this can be done?

http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/.../24632-android-phone-uconnect-8-4-screen.html
I would check out this thread. It has two videos that walk you through the entire process - great info!

I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?

Diabollon said:
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything

michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi @michaelk
Good to hear that I am not alone here with this special system V4. Except for the issue with the system time and no root access, I am fully satisfied so far. I hope to fix it soon. If we had root access then we could solve this issue with the system time with some time apps ourselves.
Thank you for your experiences.
Best regards
Diabollon

wiring harness investigation
so played around some today.
I've got an issue where I need to recalibrate the screen almost every time I boot. it seems the box (or card added to the radio?) forgets things and only works the bottom right corner and also seems to rotate 90 degrees at boot. The end result is unusable screen. I think carperformance is just a reseller because of their response. They're friendly and reply quickly but are really unable to help. The first answer was just randomly fiddle with screen and try to find calibrate setting and reboot- that proved impossible and on my own I discovered a 6 dollar USB mouse from the Walmart could be used to navigate to the calibrate app. When I inquired again when it got more frequent they basically said it's not normal and offered no help except to adjust a personalization setting to run calibrate on boot- that only works once that I can figure (might be related to weird time bug)- so I settled on having tasker run calibrate on each boot. I wonder if there is a battery in the box that needs changing but the warranty sticker keeps me out for not- might add an external battery to keep it alive for a longer time to minimize the rebooting
Anyway took everything apart today to double-check and can't find any connection issues. I traced the harness a bit to try and understand a little and basically, the skinny cables run the daughterboard to snag the screen output and the touchscreen input. But i wanted to figure out what is tapped from the radio harness to the large white plug on the box and see if anything going on their .
DISCLAIMER- I NEED TO CONFIRM (it was hot - laughing) but basically seems what is tapped in radio harness is:
1) power and ground also
2) L&R aux audio signal- interesting here is they tapped a single ground (physically next to the right signal) for common. Earlier i had the RAX hack and their harness used a ground for each L&R and their aux input worked all the time without the little plugin shunt thing to trick aux input. When i dug some more and found a pin diagram from mopar I found that the 'left' ground is actually labeled "aux audio device detect signal" I need to play some more to see what happens but my guess is if we put a switch on that to short it to ground then the aux would just work to avoid the hokey plug.
3) Here's the fun- holding the screen to flip inputs could be the daughterboard running things. BUT since it also reacts to the left steering wheel button pack and switches inputs itself when you need the reverse cam- i figured it reads the can bus. and sure enough, it looks like it taps CAN IHS (+) and CAN IHS (-). Very cool that it would get into the whole bus and read anything- BUT since there are other FCA vehicles that don't auto-switch inputs on revers and they have alternate connections it seems the real dev is not involved to update things to sniff for other reverse signals. Reading around here- seems that there is probably a custom serial port someplace in the box that reads this and there's probably no documentation for us to do anything ourselves. But one can hope...
---------- Post added at 06:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 PM ----------
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the spec for the chipset for the V4 says it can handle an OTG port and a couple (maybe 3?) other USB ports. Obviously, the box only has the one USB A port visible on the pigtail. I wish we could get in the box and look for a header for the OTG port to help rooting but.... the darn warranty sticker.
on the FCA/Dodge side of things- I have a Durango with a USB port and SD card reader in the dash (USB Media "Hub" Apparently, FCA uses USB Mini B connectors to interconnect all the ports and the radio. They use latching connectors that are keyed but if you undo them there's a standard USB mini B in there. They do some odd male/female things so you have to pay attention to where you undo cables, but bottom line you can undo the connector on the back of the dash's USB port and stuff a USB mini B female on it and connect it to whatever host device you want.
I first tried an old laptop in case there's anything weird going on. My Dash "Hub" actually has 2 mini-B connectors and a multipin auto harness. Without the harness when you connect it to windows it sees a USB Hub, but the USB port was still dead. So I assumed it needs power from the harness on the back of the dash hub and connected that. UP popped up a USB mass storage device which I believe is the SD card reader- didn't get around to confirming and then the USB port also comes to life. Knowing that it was safe at that point I connected it to the USB A Host port on the box and presto chango now I have the in-dash port connected to the android tv box without any exposed wiring.
Connected the "android auto dongle" through the cars USB port and that works perfectly. I ordered a used 2 USB dash hub from eBay (later model years have 2 and will see what that does. The pictures of that also show the 2 mini B ports- I'll play some more when I get that. I'm not sure what is in those dongles but from the other folks hacking android auto into older models (by using newer radios) apparently, one port works for android auto and the other doesn't. The scuttle is its a body module programming thing but I wonder if maybe there's something physical in there and so the dongle won't be necessary any longer with the new hub? My other thought is if the two USB min B jacks allow you to connect to 2 different hosts- I would try one on the original Uconnect (in case I ever need to update the software) and the other for the android TV box.
So apparently the android tv box handles hubs just fine. As I mentioned earlier it handles a mouse or USB keyboard fine. Also, I played around and connected my hotspot by USB instead of wifi so the device sees it as a modem and that works just fine- so I assume a USB modem works out of the box too. (again odd if that works that carperformance sells a hotspot and not USB modem- like they don't know what the box can do)

I disassembled my display 2 times until it worked. After the first start, I had a black screen. I thought that was it... After 3 times it finally worked. I also had a cable on the plug which has easily resolved. I think you will also have a loose contact somewhere. One time I also had the display calibration gone. Then I connected my old usb keyboard and could then start the display calibration. I reset the system before. So far, the system works without problems. I also have a passive 4-way usb hub to connect.
I have already connected cables for the frontcam but have not yet moved into the engine compartment.
In the video tutorial of Carperformance, you can see when you switch to drive, the display then changes to the frontcam or signal from the cam, but the display does not change to the Frontcam signal with me.
Do you have with you the signal on the display of the camera when switching to drive?

Adw2 = bad mix
Went back and forth many times in email and turns out my calibration issue was probably all ADW2 launcher, guess it conflicts with whatever app they use to communicate with the display.
in the process of troubleshooting I got the update zip for the current version but I don't think those have recovery partition in there and so can't help root? I need to read some more.
I've ripped everything apart like 12 times with the screen, so that my front cam is not connected right now. For the brief time I had it, it was connected to one of the smaller video in pin connectors and don't think it worked in drive by itself, but can't really say for certain. I think certain models can't get the canbus command to see reverse and if I understand they connect in to the video in on the main connector and then use a point on the car that is energized to trigger the switch on that connection. If your adventurous they seem to have to flip a dip also. I think it's the Cherokees or maybe grand Cherokee so maybe Google their thread's? This site gives connector pin outs
http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm
There might be a lead for the drive on your shifter if lucky. I think I read the reverse shoulder comes from a body control box in the passenger wheel well?
Also they're super friendly and never wrong when you email but they can be brief. So you could ask if there's a dipswitch to flip to enable auto switching one of the inputs. Hec maybe we should just ask for a table of where the dips do...
(Sorry for any typos... Will try to edit later)

Supposedly it is enough to connect the extra input cable for DVD or CMMB. That answered me Carperformance. Before, I had no external input cable connected. That's why no signal came. The OEM rearcam works flawlessly.

Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s

michaelk said:
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately it's not available.

Diabollon said:
Unfortunately it's not available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s

michaelk said:
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a cheaper fix but so no solution. Carperformance should offer a software update with root access. Then we would be satisfied. We should expect it for the money.
My frontcam is working now good.
You already tried Android auto? Which USB dongle do you use? Do you need a special app for this?
My China usb dongle does not want to connect properly with my oneplus 6T.
Edit:
Android auto is working with Pumpkin USB dongle and autoplaybox app. The noname China scrap goes back to shop.
The time fix is working until now also. Thanks for this info. The carperformance, they wrote or informed the affected people who ordered it. I did not get any info.

Diabollon said:
...
My frontcam is working now good.
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
besides powering your camera and connecting the yellow RCA video signal did you have to do anything else?
something with the red signal wire maybe?
I cant consistently get a signal on my front cam and not sure if the camera is bad or my setup
---------- Post added at 12:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------
few other notes for others-
FCA "aux audio device detect signal" harness line is actually normally closed (I think shorted to ground)- if you break the connection the oew radio flips right to aux in. make the connection again and it flips back to previous input.
the in dash usb port is infact a powered hub. I originally had a usb + SD card combo and replaced it with 2 usb port and works fine. FCA uses mini b connections to it- just use a usb a to mini b cable to connect it to the android auto box and your indash usb port(s) will work on android auto (And provide more watts to charge your stuff). oddly either dahs hub has a second usb mini b connector that i played around with a little but never could figure out what it does
more can bus fun! - i updated the dongle firmware on the android auto dongle sold direct from carperforance and now it has a beta feature to map buttons. somehow it seems to be sniffing the canbus through the android tv box. it has arrow keys, numbers, enter, etc and you use the app to select the input to assign then you press the same button on the car twice- it sniffs the signal and assignes it. I My durango has the button packs on the steering wheel and i was able to assign up, down, left, right and get it to have the android auto respond. Need to play more but i think it actually goes android wide. For example i think the down button on my steering wheel was sending page down to the chrome browser i had open on the box. Pretty cool stuff if they expand that.

Problem with Hizpo radio

Good morning!
I have bought a Hizpo Android radio for my Mercedes Benz Vito w639 (2012). This car haven't got steering wheel or controller for the radio, so I installed it without canbus (as the seller told me) and connecting Illumination and ACC directly to the car, bypassing the canbus.
The thing is that It started working perfectly the first day, but after some time the radio started to do really weird things, like resetting alone or getting looped on the startup showing a black screen with backlight on. Sometimes it works again for 1 day and after that starts again to fail. Anyone knows what is happening? I tried to access the recovery mode for trying a wipe, but I don't know the proper combination of buttons (this radio doesn't have physical buttons, only a reset button).
I don't know if in this forum is allowed to post the link of the website where I bought the radio, but if it's possible just tell me and I paste it.
I have a video of what happens when the radio starts to fail, but I cannot link it already to the post cuz I have less than 10 posts :crying: If you need them for helping me just tell me and I will send you a PM!
Thx for your help!! :laugh:

Nithilgan said:
Good morning!
I have bought a Hizpo Android radio for my Mercedes Benz Vito w639 (2012). This car haven't got steering wheel or controller for the radio, so I installed it without canbus (as the seller told me) and connecting Illumination and ACC directly to the car, bypassing the canbus.
The thing is that It started working perfectly the first day, but after some time the radio started to do really weird things, like resetting alone or getting looped on the startup showing a black screen with backlight on. Sometimes it works again for 1 day and after that starts again to fail. Anyone knows what is happening? I tried to access the recovery mode for trying a wipe, but I don't know the proper combination of buttons (this radio doesn't have physical buttons, only a reset button).
I don't know if in this forum is allowed to post the link of the website where I bought the radio, but if it's possible just tell me and I paste it.
I have a video of what happens when the radio starts to fail, but I cannot link it already to the post cuz I have less than 10 posts :crying: If you need them for helping me just tell me and I will send you a PM!
Thx for your help!! :laugh:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What did the reseller suggest when you contacted them for support?

marchnz said:
What did the reseller suggest when you contacted them for support?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing at all, He didn't answer my messages at this moment.

hello....I keep getting this error code: 001, does anybody has a solution?

px5 MTCE screen flipped left-to-right

Hi guys,
I just bought a car unit android 8, but the screen sometimes (90% of times) looks flipped left-to-right. Sometimes is also flipped upsdide-down+left-to-right.
And sometimes I get the screen working as it should be, flawlessly, until I do not restart the car.
The defect appears from the beginning, right from the initial logo, and it remains also if I try to reset the unit. Also when I get the "boot" text menu, it appears flipped as everything. (edit - in addition, the touch layer still working in the right way, so I cannot easily understand what I'm touching on the screen, and this makes everything more complicate)
The unit is a px5, 4GB RAM, 8-core, the MCU is MTCE_XRC_V2.93_1.
I didn't already tried to overwrite the android files, because I'm trying to get some assistance from the producer. Anyway the product is coming from China, so I guess I will have to do it by myself. Until now, I rebooted, reset, cleaned, changed startup settings, and spent a lot of time in doing and re-doing all these tasks, but the unit still like at the beginning.
My question for you: do you think is it hardware problem, or can be fixed with a firmware update?
Do you have any suggestion, setting or trick in order to solve the problem?
Thank you in advance for your help.
Kind regards

It looks like a hardware problem indeed. The touchscreen 'digitizer' is apart from the display in the front. You could try if the ribbon cable inside the radio is firmly connected to the mainboard i guess. Otherwise i think a new screen..?

I will have the same issue with this same units. I write to selller , he send me a new spare part responsible for displaying the image.

I have the same problem. What is the spare part that solve this probem? Thank you in advance.