I am hoping I can find some help in here with a couple problems I am running into on this system that would make it so much better to me.
The system is basically an Android box utilizing the touch screen and monitor of my Uconnect 8.4 head unit. The naming in the settings is rk3188 and is running on KitKat 4.4.4, so it is some variant of the Android TV boxes. If there are other specs or info that are needed to help in possibly fixing my issues please let me know.
Issue 1: although not major, there is no option to have OK Google from any screen. Having this option for a car system is obviously something helpful. In the settings of the Google App trying to access the menu for OK Google detection doesn't work, so I can't even get to the screen where that option lives. I have the most up to date version of Google App and Google Play Services. I have Google searched on ways to fix this but nothing has brought that ability up. I know Android version 4.4.4 was capable of this. There was another app that utilized Googles voice engine and allowed this function but Google made him stop using their servers and killed that as an option.
Issue 2: this is the biggest bother to me and I could not find anything even related to what's happening in my searches. The system comes loaded with some apps and using Launcher3 for its front end, it has big buttons but offers almost no ability to customize it. The bottom row has apps that you cannot switch out to anything else, and 3 of them I will never be using. The system works but is not as nice as it could look or function. The obvious answer is to use a different launcher which is where the problem arises. I have tried to use Nova and Apex so far with the same very frustrating outcome. After the install everything is great, I can set the screen up to look amazing and add icons and functionality that really make it a great experience. So everything is working lovely then I shut my truck off and go do whatever. The next time I come back I start the truck up everything loads fine, the new launcher and everything I did to it is working just as expected until about 5 minutes in the screen goes black for a second and then the system goes through a factory reset. Really? Are you kidding me? The first couple times I thought maybe I hit something because I hadn't fully put my truck back together but after playing with it more and having the system factory reset 5 other times I have concluded it is related to changing the launcher. I tried Nova first, then I tried Apex with the same outcome and same sequence of events. Obviously it's annoying everytime testing this because updating and reentering my info everytime just to try the launcher again is time consuming. The last test the only thing I did was a different launcher so that has to be it, but why and how can I fix it?
If anyone has any clue how using a different launcher would cause a factory reset to happen please help me out. Or if there is anything I can do to this system to prevent that. My last resort thought would be to root it but I read someone else who has this system that rooting it caused screen layout issues and made things go 90 degrees off? The loaded apps in the system have touch screen calibration and screen resizing which might be necessary for this to function with the monitor.
Thanks for any help.
I spoke with someone else that has the system and they are not having any issues with running a different launcher so something happen to my particular device. I contacted the company and they will be getting me the firmware to refresh it and hopefully that fixes the resetting issue.
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
RichTJ99 said:
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm getting a new unit sent out, it seems there are 2 versions and for whatever reason mine wouldn't let me customize the launcher.
But even though it's outdated, every app I tried worked just fine, they still install the latest versions. The system has 8gb of on board storage and a microSD card slot that is mainly for loading maps for offline navigation. I think you can still access it for other uses, but they have a better option for that. There is a USB input for flash drives or external drives. I tried my 2TB external drive on it and it accessed my movies fine from it.
How did you get it installed? Who?
got any pics?
Actually I would be interested in this too, I have an Alfa Romeo and the Uconnect 6.5 (european version) which isn't that great, it would be nice to attach a sort of box with ARM hardware running on Android and using the display and touch of the existing Uconnect. The question is, how this can be done?
http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/.../24632-android-phone-uconnect-8-4-screen.html
I would check out this thread. It has two videos that walk you through the entire process - great info!
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Diabollon said:
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi @michaelk
Good to hear that I am not alone here with this special system V4. Except for the issue with the system time and no root access, I am fully satisfied so far. I hope to fix it soon. If we had root access then we could solve this issue with the system time with some time apps ourselves.
Thank you for your experiences.
Best regards
Diabollon
wiring harness investigation
so played around some today.
I've got an issue where I need to recalibrate the screen almost every time I boot. it seems the box (or card added to the radio?) forgets things and only works the bottom right corner and also seems to rotate 90 degrees at boot. The end result is unusable screen. I think carperformance is just a reseller because of their response. They're friendly and reply quickly but are really unable to help. The first answer was just randomly fiddle with screen and try to find calibrate setting and reboot- that proved impossible and on my own I discovered a 6 dollar USB mouse from the Walmart could be used to navigate to the calibrate app. When I inquired again when it got more frequent they basically said it's not normal and offered no help except to adjust a personalization setting to run calibrate on boot- that only works once that I can figure (might be related to weird time bug)- so I settled on having tasker run calibrate on each boot. I wonder if there is a battery in the box that needs changing but the warranty sticker keeps me out for not- might add an external battery to keep it alive for a longer time to minimize the rebooting
Anyway took everything apart today to double-check and can't find any connection issues. I traced the harness a bit to try and understand a little and basically, the skinny cables run the daughterboard to snag the screen output and the touchscreen input. But i wanted to figure out what is tapped from the radio harness to the large white plug on the box and see if anything going on their .
DISCLAIMER- I NEED TO CONFIRM (it was hot - laughing) but basically seems what is tapped in radio harness is:
1) power and ground also
2) L&R aux audio signal- interesting here is they tapped a single ground (physically next to the right signal) for common. Earlier i had the RAX hack and their harness used a ground for each L&R and their aux input worked all the time without the little plugin shunt thing to trick aux input. When i dug some more and found a pin diagram from mopar I found that the 'left' ground is actually labeled "aux audio device detect signal" I need to play some more to see what happens but my guess is if we put a switch on that to short it to ground then the aux would just work to avoid the hokey plug.
3) Here's the fun- holding the screen to flip inputs could be the daughterboard running things. BUT since it also reacts to the left steering wheel button pack and switches inputs itself when you need the reverse cam- i figured it reads the can bus. and sure enough, it looks like it taps CAN IHS (+) and CAN IHS (-). Very cool that it would get into the whole bus and read anything- BUT since there are other FCA vehicles that don't auto-switch inputs on revers and they have alternate connections it seems the real dev is not involved to update things to sniff for other reverse signals. Reading around here- seems that there is probably a custom serial port someplace in the box that reads this and there's probably no documentation for us to do anything ourselves. But one can hope...
---------- Post added at 06:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 PM ----------
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the spec for the chipset for the V4 says it can handle an OTG port and a couple (maybe 3?) other USB ports. Obviously, the box only has the one USB A port visible on the pigtail. I wish we could get in the box and look for a header for the OTG port to help rooting but.... the darn warranty sticker.
on the FCA/Dodge side of things- I have a Durango with a USB port and SD card reader in the dash (USB Media "Hub" Apparently, FCA uses USB Mini B connectors to interconnect all the ports and the radio. They use latching connectors that are keyed but if you undo them there's a standard USB mini B in there. They do some odd male/female things so you have to pay attention to where you undo cables, but bottom line you can undo the connector on the back of the dash's USB port and stuff a USB mini B female on it and connect it to whatever host device you want.
I first tried an old laptop in case there's anything weird going on. My Dash "Hub" actually has 2 mini-B connectors and a multipin auto harness. Without the harness when you connect it to windows it sees a USB Hub, but the USB port was still dead. So I assumed it needs power from the harness on the back of the dash hub and connected that. UP popped up a USB mass storage device which I believe is the SD card reader- didn't get around to confirming and then the USB port also comes to life. Knowing that it was safe at that point I connected it to the USB A Host port on the box and presto chango now I have the in-dash port connected to the android tv box without any exposed wiring.
Connected the "android auto dongle" through the cars USB port and that works perfectly. I ordered a used 2 USB dash hub from eBay (later model years have 2 and will see what that does. The pictures of that also show the 2 mini B ports- I'll play some more when I get that. I'm not sure what is in those dongles but from the other folks hacking android auto into older models (by using newer radios) apparently, one port works for android auto and the other doesn't. The scuttle is its a body module programming thing but I wonder if maybe there's something physical in there and so the dongle won't be necessary any longer with the new hub? My other thought is if the two USB min B jacks allow you to connect to 2 different hosts- I would try one on the original Uconnect (in case I ever need to update the software) and the other for the android TV box.
So apparently the android tv box handles hubs just fine. As I mentioned earlier it handles a mouse or USB keyboard fine. Also, I played around and connected my hotspot by USB instead of wifi so the device sees it as a modem and that works just fine- so I assume a USB modem works out of the box too. (again odd if that works that carperformance sells a hotspot and not USB modem- like they don't know what the box can do)
I disassembled my display 2 times until it worked. After the first start, I had a black screen. I thought that was it... After 3 times it finally worked. I also had a cable on the plug which has easily resolved. I think you will also have a loose contact somewhere. One time I also had the display calibration gone. Then I connected my old usb keyboard and could then start the display calibration. I reset the system before. So far, the system works without problems. I also have a passive 4-way usb hub to connect.
I have already connected cables for the frontcam but have not yet moved into the engine compartment.
In the video tutorial of Carperformance, you can see when you switch to drive, the display then changes to the frontcam or signal from the cam, but the display does not change to the Frontcam signal with me.
Do you have with you the signal on the display of the camera when switching to drive?
Adw2 = bad mix
Went back and forth many times in email and turns out my calibration issue was probably all ADW2 launcher, guess it conflicts with whatever app they use to communicate with the display.
in the process of troubleshooting I got the update zip for the current version but I don't think those have recovery partition in there and so can't help root? I need to read some more.
I've ripped everything apart like 12 times with the screen, so that my front cam is not connected right now. For the brief time I had it, it was connected to one of the smaller video in pin connectors and don't think it worked in drive by itself, but can't really say for certain. I think certain models can't get the canbus command to see reverse and if I understand they connect in to the video in on the main connector and then use a point on the car that is energized to trigger the switch on that connection. If your adventurous they seem to have to flip a dip also. I think it's the Cherokees or maybe grand Cherokee so maybe Google their thread's? This site gives connector pin outs
http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm
There might be a lead for the drive on your shifter if lucky. I think I read the reverse shoulder comes from a body control box in the passenger wheel well?
Also they're super friendly and never wrong when you email but they can be brief. So you could ask if there's a dipswitch to flip to enable auto switching one of the inputs. Hec maybe we should just ask for a table of where the dips do...
(Sorry for any typos... Will try to edit later)
Supposedly it is enough to connect the extra input cable for DVD or CMMB. That answered me Carperformance. Before, I had no external input cable connected. That's why no signal came. The OEM rearcam works flawlessly.
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
michaelk said:
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately it's not available.
Diabollon said:
Unfortunately it's not available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
michaelk said:
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a cheaper fix but so no solution. Carperformance should offer a software update with root access. Then we would be satisfied. We should expect it for the money.
My frontcam is working now good.
You already tried Android auto? Which USB dongle do you use? Do you need a special app for this?
My China usb dongle does not want to connect properly with my oneplus 6T.
Edit:
Android auto is working with Pumpkin USB dongle and autoplaybox app. The noname China scrap goes back to shop.
The time fix is working until now also. Thanks for this info. The carperformance, they wrote or informed the affected people who ordered it. I did not get any info.
Diabollon said:
...
My frontcam is working now good.
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
besides powering your camera and connecting the yellow RCA video signal did you have to do anything else?
something with the red signal wire maybe?
I cant consistently get a signal on my front cam and not sure if the camera is bad or my setup
---------- Post added at 12:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------
few other notes for others-
FCA "aux audio device detect signal" harness line is actually normally closed (I think shorted to ground)- if you break the connection the oew radio flips right to aux in. make the connection again and it flips back to previous input.
the in dash usb port is infact a powered hub. I originally had a usb + SD card combo and replaced it with 2 usb port and works fine. FCA uses mini b connections to it- just use a usb a to mini b cable to connect it to the android auto box and your indash usb port(s) will work on android auto (And provide more watts to charge your stuff). oddly either dahs hub has a second usb mini b connector that i played around with a little but never could figure out what it does
more can bus fun! - i updated the dongle firmware on the android auto dongle sold direct from carperforance and now it has a beta feature to map buttons. somehow it seems to be sniffing the canbus through the android tv box. it has arrow keys, numbers, enter, etc and you use the app to select the input to assign then you press the same button on the car twice- it sniffs the signal and assignes it. I My durango has the button packs on the steering wheel and i was able to assign up, down, left, right and get it to have the android auto respond. Need to play more but i think it actually goes android wide. For example i think the down button on my steering wheel was sending page down to the chrome browser i had open on the box. Pretty cool stuff if they expand that.
Related
Even after uninstalling it with titanium backup,root explorer and native android in menu it keeps popping up in notification bar with these ill-effects:
It closes out any apps or programs I was using!
It automatically puts me on speaker when I make or receive calls
Screen orientation cannot be disabled
Screen lock cannot be disabled
Volume is lowered when playing music
stays at the same volume and cannot be adjusted.
Some suggestions were to disable automatic startup and bluetooth in Car Home's menus when it pops up, I did not see such option. Now the menu does not pop up anymore, only the steering wheel icon pops up in notification bar to let me know its here to make my day a living hell again. Everyday, Every Hour, Every minute. I've done full wipe,cache,dalvik, and reinstall of cm6 6.1.2 and it just wont GO AWAY! Please HELP!
Posting in general forum because I'm not getting any help in Q/A!
You know what, my phone started exactly the same thing yesterday lunchtime and it's bloody annoying.
One thing that bugs me is that the headphone volume is now jammed at "very loud" with no way to adjust it.
Likely cause: pins 4 & 5 of the USB port shorted out. I would recommend carefully cleaning the USB port on the phone to see if that helps (it didn't for me).
Unless anyone has a magic solution, mine is going back to stock today and then back to HTC for repair.
Had the exact same issue a while back so I just took it to Sprint and got a new one.
perhaps its my google account cuz i notice after fresh install and before i sync my market there car home is no where to be found. so im thinking theres probably an issue with my google account and apps. even thiugh it does not have car home as one of ny apps ive installed.
issue temporarily fixed by going to both car apps in applications and force stop/clearing data but then it came back again, defiantly sometime to do with usb port
My phone started having the same problem, it would come up for no reason at all. Just now I plugged it into my car charger and it magically stopped. I was wondering if the usb cable I got from HTC could be bad.
Its a provlem with your micro usb. I had the same problem on multiple
roms. Getting a new usb cable cleared it up for me.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
I had the same problem, and it turned out that it was a 3rd party charger that I bought on ebay that caused it. I bought a charger from Sprint, and it cleared up for me.
Don't mean to dig up an old thread, but figured would be better than starting a new one.
My Evo just started doing similar things just two days ago. Pretty sure mine was a moisture issue- put it in my pocket while swim suit was still wet, I've read similar reports on other forums.
My issue is Car Home will launch whenever it wants (seems to be purely random.) It will 'dock' then 'undock' (indicated by the chime it plays) two or three times in a row before it finally just runs in the background. If you are in an application while this happens it will either crash the program, or refresh everything, losing what ever state you were on.
Any got a software fix for this yet? I've tried uninstalling it, freezing it, reinstalling it, deleting the apk with root explorer... nothing. Not only is it god awful annoying it's killing my battery life. From what I am understanding this issue is rooted in hardware problems, but there has to be a way of stopping a program from auto loading.
I even went as far as to delete EVERY file that root explorer found the words 'car' and 'home' in with it's search function. Tried installing apps that supposedly blocked it from auto loading like NoDock, did nothing.
If all else fails I guess i could do a full wipe and reload CM7, but I've read reports that that doesn't even fix it. Is there anyway to confirm it's a USB problem, and not a short in the magnetic sensor? I attempted to take a cat log, think it was throwing a Java error, need to read up on how to post said log.
If there is a more complete thread or resolution page, please link it, I have no issues reading up on it myself if only I can find it.
Thanks for any input!
This problem is caused by the liquid damage... Everytime I have one come in with this issue.. I have signs of liquid damage to the board, especially around the charging port...
I hear ya, but there has to be a way of removing carhome completely. My phone operates fantastic for 80% of the day, so it's not like it's a catastrophic error or anything.
Same thing happening here on my Evo with Cyanogenmod 7.1RC1. Really odd behavior. I just uninstalled car home using Titanium and I'm waiting to see if that fixes it.
I downloaded nodock (trial) and pretty much solved the issue. I still have problems on start up but once I am able to enable the app. I might just end up buying the app because of no other choice.
I fixed this issue by getting a new phone. Its a hardware issue, something something usb port dying glitching, thinks its docking with car dock
I would totally do the same thing if I wasn't living in fear of the new ota
crakerjaks said:
I fixed this issue by getting a new phone. Its a hardware issue, something something usb port dying glitching, thinks its docking with car dock
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This.
It's a hardware issue, not software. The tech at my local Sprint store said they see this a lot with people that use car chargers, especially during the winter. The end of the cable falls on the floor and gets dirt, salt, and other crap in it then gets picked up and plugged into the phone and screws up the USB port. Sometimes it just needs to be cleaned, but sometimes it actually gets damaged.
Sent from my HTC EVO 4G with Tapatalk
I cleaned my charging port with rubbing alcohol and it seems to be fixed.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
has anyone found a solution to this issue, im currently experiencing it on my inspire.... from what i have read its a hardware issue, but isn't there anyway to make a patch of something that can block car home from launching?? it randomly starts up on my phone and causes my speaker phone to always be on when receiving calls or making one, until i manually turn it off but still its pretty annoying... help!! lol
water damage or generic charger
I had this problem I was using a cheap stand charger when I switched back to the stock charger it solved the problem after a few days.... but that evo broke and my next evo had it again plus HDMI wasn't working. Took it in and it had all kinds of corrosion from water damage causing the problem. So take it in or take it apart and clean it hope that helps
I have a TV box whit Intel atom z3735f quad-core, 2GB di RAM and 32GB of memory, HDMI, two USB, battery internal, bluetooth 4.0, Wi-Fi dualband(2.4 and 5ghz), preinstalled windows 8.1(i think 'RT') whit Bing, charge whit another micro-usb port!! Model name: Wintel Mini iPC002 (Vensmile W10) Producer: Vissontech [search it for other features] it's a good product for good price!!
Initially i have a problem whit the two USB and i think that it was disable on the bios setup. I procure an otg cable and connect the keyboard in a micro-usb port to finish a pre-configuration of Windows. Then i reboot and enter in the bios setup. Whit my big surprise, everithing is enable!..then reboot and try the two USB, but nothing: don't work!
At last, i re-enter in the bios setup and i can't select or change nothing!..I repeat the operation but i can't change nothing in the bios setup and the two USB don't work!!
Do you say me one way to reset the bios?..or one solution for the problem that i described in this post?
Exist a tool to flash a bios in WinOS for this product whit Intel processor?
Thank you for your time!
Hope in more reply
Best regardes
Soon.
Same problem
Hello novellus2014, i have exactly the same problem : the 2 USB ports doesn't work.
I have test 2 mouses and 2 keyboard. The led on the mouse don't light. Same for the led on the keyboard (caps lock...).
So perhaps there is a problem with the power on the USB ports ?
I can't finish Windows 8.1 install, i am blocked on the language selection of Windows 8.1.
To finish the install you have use an OTG USB cable on the mini USB power port ??
Thanks to send me a message if you found a solution for the USB ports. I'll do the same for you if i found a solution...
a friend!!
hi mediapole, luckily or unfortunately, we have a same problem!!
the answer at your question is: YES!!
i use an OTG cable for finish an initial install.
but or use it or charge the mini pc..a bad solution for use this product
also in my opinion the problem is the power of USB ports!!
also the led of my pen drive is off when it is attached!!
i have send a mail at vissontech and wait for response.
Soon
Same here
Just received my unit and have the same issues and the same oppinion. I think it is about not having power on those two USB ports, maybe a hw problem? I hope not.
I guess I will try to power the unit through the micro usb port, and I will use a bluetooth keyboard and mouse, and a big SD for storage
I am sending them an email too.
are you able to find solution to BIOS issue?
itechengine said:
are you able to find solution to BIOS issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought it through Aliexpress. I contacted the seller and they sent me a new firmware that I was able to update into my device. Still the same, no results, both USB's are just dead, there is not even power on them.
jmontesa said:
I bought it through Aliexpress. I contacted the seller and they sent me a new firmware that I was able to update into my device. Still the same, no results, both USB's are just dead, there is not even power on them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suggest you should try update your BIOS... Guleek i8 has the same hardware configuration...
http://www.guleek.com/3c/exzzx_view.asp?id=15
itechengine said:
I suggest you should try update your BIOS... Guleek i8 has the same hardware configuration...
Thank you very much. In fact it seems to be an older BIOS (Vx5_bios_20141231_2117_logo.bin) than the one the seller sent to me (Vx5_bios_201501271131_intel.bin), but still I have given it a try.
Still the same, well now I have lost the conection with bluetooth mouse and keyboard, but I guess I could pair them again if needed.
Now I am waiting the dealer to pay me a 50% of the shipping costs back to them. I have 30 days to return the item.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats bad... I think its because we tried to downgrade the BIOS from higher version. If you reflash the new one it should restore the bluetooth functionality. If possible could you please send (email) me the BIOS you have?[Vx5_bios_201501271131_intel.bin]
Also, see if this helps...
https://www.raymond.cc/blog/how-to-reset-remove-clear-or-reveal-cmos-bios-security-password/
Sure I can send the BIOS. Is your email published? I can't see it.
I agree that upgrading it again bluetooth should come back, I need to find the uUSB to USB cable again to do it.
I will also check the link you sent, but don't you think that after reflashing the BIOS, USB ports should get enabled if they weren't?
jmontesa said:
Sure I can send the BIOS. Is your email published? I can't see it.
I agree that upgrading it again bluetooth should come back, I need to find the uUSB to USB cable again to do it.
I will also check the link you sent, but don't you think that after reflashing the BIOS, USB ports should get enabled if they weren't?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If its a hardware issue then whatever we do it will not get enabled. What i do is i use RDP to this MiniPC if I want to change the settings. That way i dont have to physically connect keyb and mouse to it. I have installed Plex server on this minipc.
I have sent you PM with my email address.
Similar to what I planned at the begining with bluetooth mouse and keyboard. But I'd like to plug my 3Tb disk to it and still keep powered. I have also done some tests with usb hubs, but again no way.
I have tried few things on my mini pc
1) Disabled USB Legacy mode in the BIOS and restarted. flashed the Guleek BIOS BIN file, it flashed successfully and restored BIOS defaults.
2) I have again Disabled USB Legacy mode in the BIOS and restarted. flashed the Vensmile BIOS BIN file, now i cant go to BIOS anymore, it seems it doesn't restore the defaults. I then re-flashed the Guleek BIOS and it started again.
Hi!
i bought 2 days ago a vensmile ipc002.
Im trying to boot with linux usb key, but i have big problems in disabling secure boot...r u able to do it? can you help me?
Everytime it boots windows, even if i made my usb key with rufus, gpt partition, fat32 and every thing i read on the web.
The only way i won is to press restart+shift, then boot/rescue from there by uefi usb....in that way, my pc boot with linux (mate in this case, 64bit version).
Please help me to understand something in bios setup...it seems all disabled, but it everytimes boot windows instead of uefi usb key!!
i tried every solution without success.
I can boot anything ... only win8.1 .
I need to boot linux....is it possible?
Is it possible to flash a different bios without secure boot locked (i disabled from uefi setup but without success...)
Thanks a lot
I have also tried booting with other OS but didn't worked. I will need to investigate more, i will do it this weekend and let you know.
http://www.cnx-software.com/2015/02/13/how-to-install-ubuntu-15-04-on-mele-pcg03-intel-mini-pc/
is this of any help?
Working Solution for the USB Ports!!!
Hello,
i bought this device last week. and the USB Ports was not working.
so i searched through the Forums, but no solution.
the Solution i found out is, that you have to remove the black Stickers on the front and on the back.
under the Stickers there are 3 Screws on each side. on the front is the WLAN Antenna!
just remove the front plate... pay Attention of the Cable from the WLAN!
then press the electric out to the back side!... disconnect the WLAN Antenna from the Mainboard.
i removed the 2 screws from the USB Port and ... the cable was not connected to this circuit board!!
i removed the Battery (the cable is sticked to the battery) ... pulled the cable to the direction of the USB Ports. and connected it to the circuit board...
then the USB Ports are working!!
just Reassembly the Device after this procedure and all is working
Thomas
Thank for the instructions, if you could post some more pics of the screws (locations) and inside the product it will be great.
I did not wrote this, I found it on Amazon review of the pc.
By Brittany Thomason June 21, 2015
USB Problem and Solution for the Vensmile. If you are like me you plugged in your Vensmile and were unable to do anything with the plugged in usb keyboard and mouse. There was no power on mine, I checked with a voltmeter and it was dead. I knew it was powered up since it was coming up with the install for win 8. If you are having the same issue as me you will not have a light between the two usb ports in the back. I carefully peeled the plastic protector off slowly (black side with all the ports). This is a piece of plastic held on with sticky tape. This will expose the three screws. Remove the three screws and the main board will slide out. Mine required a tap on each side to start sliding out. You can see the usb board now and just flip the right battery back off the board. I have attached a pic. You can see it either fell out during transmit or was never attached in the first place. Pull up on the black ribbon connection, slide in the ribbon cable and lock the black ribbon connection back down. You will see the usb come back on right away. Slide it back in the case, attach the three screws and put the plastic stick on cover back on.
(I have image of the insides, but the forum don't let me post it)
Edit:
I did it! OMG I did it! It works again! Thomas_Eder and Brittany Thomason thank you so much guys! You are awesome!
1. Use knife to take out the back black bezel. I started from the side and pulled with fingers. Its tough dont worry. It got no scratches.
2. Remove the 3 screws.
3. Tap Tap Tap and the motherboard slide out.
4. On the bottom where the battery is you will have to detatch 2 screws to remove the usb board.
5. See the white ribbon next to battery. Thats it.
6. There is a small cap on the ribbon connector, be careful, open it with nail from the back of his entry.
7. Push the ribbon and close that little lid to hold it in place.
(The usb board will start blink)
8. Dont forget the 2 little screws.
9. Put all inside (watch out for the antenna and ribbon cables).
10. Test. Close. Enjoy.
I made some pics but cannot post them.
Edit 2:
I made video with the pictures on youtube - watch?v=OI55cAELoSo
Just wondering if Android Auto for connected car displays stopped working for anyone as of yesterday or today. I'm skeptical of another Google "back end experiment" that caused it to stop working. I have a Ford with Sync 3
Symptom: Plug phone into car, nothing happens. Phone only charges and will even say USB is connected.
I've done some basic and partially in depth trouble shooting. It most likely couldn't be caused by any updates on Car infotainment system or my Phone because it has been working (unless there was a back end play services update that was pushed out).
From the obvious to less obvious:
-Tried rebooting phone and restarted car
-Tried using a different USB A to C cable (Anker ones have worked perfectly for me)
-Tried using secondary USB port in car
-Tested phones ability to connect to a PC and transfer data, no issue
-Threw music onto a USB flash drive and plugged it into car, no issue
-Tried turning on USB debugging on phone, no change (not sure if this would have even helped in first place).
I'm at a loss right now. It does not make any sense.
I do not have another android phone to try or an iPhone to test CarPlay unfortunately.
Literally had the same thing happen to me on Sync 3 last week. I just deleted the car from the Android Auto app and deleted the phone from Sync 3. After that I was able to use Android Auto again after going through the setup prompts. No issues since.
Works fine for me on my 2018 silverado
no issues on 2017 Sierra
Here it works perfectly
bigblueshock said:
Just wondering if Android Auto for connected car displays stopped working for anyone as of yesterday or today. I'm skeptical of another Google "back end experiment" that caused it to stop working. I have a Ford with Sync 3
Symptom: Plug phone into car, nothing happens. Phone only charges and will even say USB is connected.
I've done some basic and partially in depth trouble shooting. It most likely couldn't be caused by any updates on Car infotainment system or my Phone because it has been working (unless there was a back end play services update that was pushed out).
From the obvious to less obvious:
-Tried rebooting phone and restarted car
-Tried using a different USB A to C cable (Anker ones have worked perfectly for me)
-Tried using secondary USB port in car
-Tested phones ability to connect to a PC and transfer data, no issue
-Threw music onto a USB flash drive and plugged it into car, no issue
-Tried turning on USB debugging on phone, no change (not sure if this would have even helped in first place).
I'm at a loss right now. It does not make any sense.
I do not have another android phone to try or an iPhone to test CarPlay unfortunately.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
happens to me every 3-6 months.
Swapping out the cable resolved it every time.
ya dude you need to try some different cables. that should always be your first step if there have been no updates.
Thanks for the replies. I deleted and unpaired AA from my phone and my car with no luck.
I actually had my coworker who has a Pixel 2 XL plug his phone in to my car. He had no issues at all even after multiple tries. Mine still wont connect. We're both on Pie with same security patch level. Did try tried Multiple new cables and still no luck (the anker high quality ones).
I found this thread incase it starts happening to anyone...
https://productforums.google.com/fo.../PWBrDUXzR4o;context-place=forum/android-auto
Something I picked off of that topic was some USB patches/features that went in to effect between Pie release and last month security patch.
I may just wait a month. Maybe another security patch which tweaks USB or 9.1 will drop fixing my issue. We shall see. At least I know its not my car or my cables.
Go into apps and check your "play services" versions between the two phones. Google controls a lot of **** through that app
Or just try to clear your usb port
Thanks for the replies. After the October patch I'm back up and running.
Lack of communication between departments at Google baffles my mind.
I just bought a PX5 unit, which seemed to be working perfectly until I finished installing it into my car and now it has become unresponsive with a black screen and a yellow rhombus with an exclamation point in the middle (unable to upload image as new user).
If I turn off the ignition, it will turn the stereo off and the android screen briefly shows before going into sleep. None of the buttons are allowing me to get past the screen and in to android. The reset button seems to do nothing, android is definitely running in the background, just unsure as to why this screen will not close. Any ideas?
Hi, I think I saw a yellow rhombus with an exclamation point when I was installing my radio and rear view camera was not connected to the radio. I think that it is a warning about missing video signal when radio is displaying live feed from a rear view camera.
So, one explanation for your issue could be that the radio thinks you are reversing, and the rear view camera is not connected to the radio. If I understand it right, radio can switch to rear view camera display mode based on two conditions 1) canbus information 2) +12v trigger signal.
For the condition 2), you could check that nothing is unintentional connected to reverse detect wire. If that does not help, then you could perhaps try to disable reverse view feature in the configuration menu before installing the radio to the car and/or find a working canbus configuration settings.
Please notice that I'm a beginner with Android head units and your problem might well be something totally different!!
Thanks for your reply. Some of your post seems to relate to my issue definitely, I think it is linked to the rear view camera which is currently disconnected. However I am unable to get into any configuration options. None of the buttons/resets I try get me past the exclamation screen, I can only see android once I turn off my ignition when it tells me it is closing down. None of the various reset button combinations seem to do anything with my head unit either, can't seem to reset it properly. Its strange, I will reattach the camera tomorrow and see if that brings any joy. I don't know anything about this stuff myself but I am wondering if I did something to the head unit to brick the non-android side somehow.
Edit: Unfortunately reattaching the camera did not change anything.
Update. I have managed to find a way in to the Android side if I connect my phone via bluetooth to the stereo, it then lets me use the split screen function via the top bar menu to put the warning screen other screen to the side, however whenever I touch the screen or attempt to use the android interface, my stereo goes back to the warning screen, none of my inputs via the stereo buttons or the touch screen seem to be registering with the Android side? Very confused. I have also tried as many button combination resets I can find and I have not been able to successfully get into the recovery menu, or any change except rebooting.
Was your unit professionally installed?
Also, what did the re-seller suggest when you contacted them for support?
No the unit was not professionally installed. I am not sure how I've become stuck with the problem. I made some minor changes in factory settings but nothing I thought would of caused this. The seller is yet to respond and its been a couple of days, but I have requested the hardware reset methods for this unit or any other solutions.
deano35 said:
No the unit was not professionally installed. I am not sure how I've become stuck with the problem. I made some minor changes in factory settings but nothing I thought would of caused this. The seller is yet to respond and its been a couple of days, but I have requested the hardware reset methods for this unit or any other solutions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check the reverse wire on the back of the unit...if necessary disconnect it to ensure no reverse signal is received.
If your unit can boot into android normally then you will have to figure out why the reverse wire is receiving signal .
Check your connectors to avoid any of them to be loose.
Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk
Everything has been disconnected from the unit except the power cable to car and and canbus, from what I can tell nothing is loose. Unit will not boot without the canbus box whatsoever, not sure if that is meant to happen.
deano35 said:
Everything has been disconnected from the unit except the power cable to car and and canbus, from what I can tell nothing is loose. Unit will not boot without the canbus box whatsoever, not sure if that is meant to happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, canbus decoder need to be connected for power up the HU. If you dont need the decoder box you need rewire the harness.
I think I am going to have to request a refund and return it. Still no reply from the reseller and I am not sure what else I can try, everything that is not needed to power it has now been removed. I can't send links or else I would update the thread with a video of the touch/physical buttons being completely unresponsive even when I manage to get to Android. The unit has definitely developed a fault and I am unable to reset it. Admittedly it could be my fault somehow as it was working for the first few boots, but unless they give me something to try I am just going to have to send it back.
Quick bump. Has anyone got any further ideas? I bought off Aliexpress so contact with the seller is slow and painful, they do not seem to understand the issue and just keep telling me to disconnect all wires and reconnect. Which has been done many times. If anyone wants to post a link to the video for me I would be happy to send them it privately.
deano35 said:
Quick bump. Has anyone got any further ideas? I bought off Aliexpress so contact with the seller is slow and painful, they do not seem to understand the issue and just keep telling me to disconnect all wires and reconnect. Which has been done many times. If anyone wants to post a link to the video for me I would be happy to send them it privately.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would start a dispute with them. I had a device that they sent with similar problems and plenty of issues, which they would not help with or would not understand. Best option is to dispute to get a new device or a full refund. Could you send the video?
xLeviNx said:
I would start a dispute with them. I had a device that they sent with similar problems and plenty of issues, which they would not help with or would not understand. Best option is to dispute to get a new device or a full refund. Could you send the video?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeh I have a dispute open currently, just was hoping it would inspire the seller to actually offer up a working way of resetting the device. Had to add link below seperately as needed to be ten or most posts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujHacKESAT8&feature=youtu.be
The stereo defaults as the warning image black screen and I can only get android up using the multiwindow button with a long press. Then the android side will not register any input and will keep trying to put the black screen to the front.
Update: I have been told by Aliexpress I can have a partial refund and keep the unit, or a full refund if I return to China. Anyone have any ideas how I would go about resetting the unit if I took the partial refund? To be honest I think my only option is to return it and get the full amount back but any ideas would be welcome! Shipping to China and awaiting a refund is going to take weeks, would rather just get it working if possible.
deano35: any progres? I have the same problem as you. This is my post from PX5 MTCD/E Head Unit Discussion Thread
" Hi , I have https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/DtwdJIt its px5, Mtce_gs_v2.90c. Now I have a little problem with rear camera. I bought reverse camera and tried to connect it into front camera input(I was curious how it would look like) and since then its stuck on camera view. Even after disconnecting camera. Only solution was disable "prohibit reverse" in factory settings menu, but with "prohibit reverse" disabled is obviously not showing reverse camera when I gear the reverse down. Everything is shown in this video. https://photos.app.goo.gl/XbYUHApzT8qTezkq6 Thanks for any advice. "
Take a look on the video, its similar as yours.
I have an S22 with Stock Android and bought Gamesir X2 to play XBOX Cloud and Retroarch games with it.
For some reason I decided to buy the USB-C version over the Bluetooth (I thought I was neat to be able to charge the phone while playing and also less input lag due to BT delays).
Thing is, gamepad arrived, I rushed to plug it in and found out nothing happened. Gamepad blue light stays blinking (its supposed to stay blu when connected) and the phone doesnt even detects anything.
This is supposed to be a simple OTG gamepad, so should be plug-n-play.
I reached to Samsung about 'how do I enable OTG to use my gamepad' and the answer was 'OTG is enabled by default'
I also reached out to Gamesir, they told me to try press G+S buttons on the pad while connected, but nothing happened
There's a Gamesir app that is suppsed to be used to detect it (and also map the gamepad on some touch screen games) but doesnt work for me
I also found some guy on youtube claiming I should enable ADB debug and set USB default to 'File transfer'. Doesnt work either
Anyone having the same issue?
Anyone having a USB-C Gamepad working?
Any ideas on what to try out to get it working?
Thanks in advance
I've recently run into a similar issue however on a S23+. The device I'm trying to use is a Seek CompactPro FF USB-C which uses powered OTG. No need of a cable as it has USB-C built into the device itself.
It didn't work at first, it detected it and tried to open the "Seek Thermal" app which is normal but in the app itself the device was not being detected. Did a ton of searching until finally I found another person having a similar issue where the work around was to plug in the OTG device, then reboot the phone with the device still plugged in.
Give that a try? IMO it shouldn't be like this, and it isn't very well documented anywhere I look...but that worked for me for my device. Did not work any other way. Device works perfectly fine after rebooting phone with it plugged in.
86brown said:
I've recently run into a similar issue however on a S23+. The device I'm trying to use is a Seek CompactPro FF USB-C which uses powered OTG. No need of a cable as it has USB-C built into the device itself.
It didn't work at first, it detected it and tried to open the "Seek Thermal" app which is normal but in the app itself the device was not being detected. Did a ton of searching until finally I found another person having a similar issue where the work around was to plug in the OTG device, then reboot the phone with the device still plugged in.
Give that a try? IMO it shouldn't be like this, and it isn't very well documented anywhere I look...but that worked for me for my device. Did not work any other way. Device works perfectly fine after rebooting phone with it plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply 86, tried that but didnt work for me. I saw a couple of videos where the blinking blue light might mean that its not connecting well (its supposed to stay blue) so I guess its something to do with how the cable is connecting. Since Gamesir already told me I have no warranty nor support from them as I bought it on Amazon instead of their site I'm thinking on tearing it appart during the weekend.
If I break it I'll end up with a nice pouch case for my cables (the most expensive pouch ever).