Develop Bugs

charges but no USB connection

OK gonna start a new thread as my others seem to have gone dead, ok problem.
PC won't see any connection for kindle nor Ubuntu doesn't show up on device manager at all. I made a factory cable and can get into fastboot but no joy, device powers up kindle logo appears then powers off.

Have you tried another PC, cable?

hi
if you want to view your kindle on your pc try this
on your kindle go to settings
click storage - click the 3 dots at the top right
a pop up box opens saying 'usb connection'
check media device(mtp)
make sure usb debugging is checked in settings - developer options
if you plug your kindle into your pc you should see the kindle if you double click computer

I repair these
bandit250 said:
OK gonna start a new thread as my others seem to have gone dead, ok problem.
PC won't see any connection for kindle nor Ubuntu doesn't show up on device manager at all. I made a factory cable and can get into fastboot but no joy, device powers up kindle logo appears then powers off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do lots of repairs on kindle's. It sounds like a few of the pins on the charging port are busted. Because of the way these are made I get lots of snapped kindle's in my shop. I have done 3 this week alone. If you know how to do fine soldering this is easy to fix. I also have a reflow station but don't use that on the kindle's. Placement of a few components near the charging port make it so you can't safely use the hot air or it will blow the components off the board.
It could be as simple as just some busted solder joints and just reheating the contacts will use the solder there a fuse them together again. Ebay sells replacement ports for about $9 and takes about 15 minutes to install.

Erisin ES9746A RK3066 - No Wifi since road accident

Hi there,
Hope my post is in correct section and my english will be explicit.
So in first time, thanks to the community for all work done on this, i little mod my Unit with ur fantastic work.
In second time, i had an accident with my car on the road (a ****ing guy hit me on my rear left and do a 360° ...) and since that, i have no wifi with my unit, do cant update any app, can use my GPS (Waze), cant hear somes song and more...
When i try to put wifi ON, the slide go on "ON" during 5sec and after, go back in OFF. I check the M.A.C Adress and is blank, so, opening the unit for check the board and nothing seems to be brake.
I try to update my unit, android, MCU but nothing work, so i hope u can help me, cause Erisin dont reply to my problem.
Thanks

Hi
Did you checked if your wires are ok? Maybe the accident caused some connections to get loose.
Enviado do meu SM-T330 através de Tapatalk

I allready check but nothing seems to be broke.
I search for the card board détail for find wifi module but i didnt get them

Your USB chip died, just like mine did. Took away all that had something to do with usb, such as wifi, external disc option, 3g...

Nothing can be do for repair ?
The front usb work for u ?

Nitro-TecK said:
Nothing can be do for repair ?
The front usb work for u ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
None of the usb ports work because usb controller died on board.
First my wifi started to go off by itself, and soon enough nothing worked that could be connected to usb.
You should change the mainboard, or buy another device.
But first try factory reset.

In my case, front USB work (just the mini USB/USB cable move a lot, so i lost connection).
I allready try a factory reset and dont work too. For information, when i put WIFI dongle on USB Front, i can swap wifi ON too., but this dongle work on my computer.
Where i can find a mainboard ?

From your seller, I guess...

Carperformance.se Uconnect Android system help.

I am hoping I can find some help in here with a couple problems I am running into on this system that would make it so much better to me.
The system is basically an Android box utilizing the touch screen and monitor of my Uconnect 8.4 head unit. The naming in the settings is rk3188 and is running on KitKat 4.4.4, so it is some variant of the Android TV boxes. If there are other specs or info that are needed to help in possibly fixing my issues please let me know.
Issue 1: although not major, there is no option to have OK Google from any screen. Having this option for a car system is obviously something helpful. In the settings of the Google App trying to access the menu for OK Google detection doesn't work, so I can't even get to the screen where that option lives. I have the most up to date version of Google App and Google Play Services. I have Google searched on ways to fix this but nothing has brought that ability up. I know Android version 4.4.4 was capable of this. There was another app that utilized Googles voice engine and allowed this function but Google made him stop using their servers and killed that as an option.
Issue 2: this is the biggest bother to me and I could not find anything even related to what's happening in my searches. The system comes loaded with some apps and using Launcher3 for its front end, it has big buttons but offers almost no ability to customize it. The bottom row has apps that you cannot switch out to anything else, and 3 of them I will never be using. The system works but is not as nice as it could look or function. The obvious answer is to use a different launcher which is where the problem arises. I have tried to use Nova and Apex so far with the same very frustrating outcome. After the install everything is great, I can set the screen up to look amazing and add icons and functionality that really make it a great experience. So everything is working lovely then I shut my truck off and go do whatever. The next time I come back I start the truck up everything loads fine, the new launcher and everything I did to it is working just as expected until about 5 minutes in the screen goes black for a second and then the system goes through a factory reset. Really? Are you kidding me? The first couple times I thought maybe I hit something because I hadn't fully put my truck back together but after playing with it more and having the system factory reset 5 other times I have concluded it is related to changing the launcher. I tried Nova first, then I tried Apex with the same outcome and same sequence of events. Obviously it's annoying everytime testing this because updating and reentering my info everytime just to try the launcher again is time consuming. The last test the only thing I did was a different launcher so that has to be it, but why and how can I fix it?
If anyone has any clue how using a different launcher would cause a factory reset to happen please help me out. Or if there is anything I can do to this system to prevent that. My last resort thought would be to root it but I read someone else who has this system that rooting it caused screen layout issues and made things go 90 degrees off? The loaded apps in the system have touch screen calibration and screen resizing which might be necessary for this to function with the monitor.
Thanks for any help.

I spoke with someone else that has the system and they are not having any issues with running a different launcher so something happen to my particular device. I contacted the company and they will be getting me the firmware to refresh it and hopefully that fixes the resetting issue.

i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?

RichTJ99 said:
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm getting a new unit sent out, it seems there are 2 versions and for whatever reason mine wouldn't let me customize the launcher.
But even though it's outdated, every app I tried worked just fine, they still install the latest versions. The system has 8gb of on board storage and a microSD card slot that is mainly for loading maps for offline navigation. I think you can still access it for other uses, but they have a better option for that. There is a USB input for flash drives or external drives. I tried my 2TB external drive on it and it accessed my movies fine from it.

How did you get it installed? Who?

got any pics?

Actually I would be interested in this too, I have an Alfa Romeo and the Uconnect 6.5 (european version) which isn't that great, it would be nice to attach a sort of box with ARM hardware running on Android and using the display and touch of the existing Uconnect. The question is, how this can be done?

http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/.../24632-android-phone-uconnect-8-4-screen.html
I would check out this thread. It has two videos that walk you through the entire process - great info!

I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?

Diabollon said:
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything

michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi @michaelk
Good to hear that I am not alone here with this special system V4. Except for the issue with the system time and no root access, I am fully satisfied so far. I hope to fix it soon. If we had root access then we could solve this issue with the system time with some time apps ourselves.
Thank you for your experiences.
Best regards
Diabollon

wiring harness investigation
so played around some today.
I've got an issue where I need to recalibrate the screen almost every time I boot. it seems the box (or card added to the radio?) forgets things and only works the bottom right corner and also seems to rotate 90 degrees at boot. The end result is unusable screen. I think carperformance is just a reseller because of their response. They're friendly and reply quickly but are really unable to help. The first answer was just randomly fiddle with screen and try to find calibrate setting and reboot- that proved impossible and on my own I discovered a 6 dollar USB mouse from the Walmart could be used to navigate to the calibrate app. When I inquired again when it got more frequent they basically said it's not normal and offered no help except to adjust a personalization setting to run calibrate on boot- that only works once that I can figure (might be related to weird time bug)- so I settled on having tasker run calibrate on each boot. I wonder if there is a battery in the box that needs changing but the warranty sticker keeps me out for not- might add an external battery to keep it alive for a longer time to minimize the rebooting
Anyway took everything apart today to double-check and can't find any connection issues. I traced the harness a bit to try and understand a little and basically, the skinny cables run the daughterboard to snag the screen output and the touchscreen input. But i wanted to figure out what is tapped from the radio harness to the large white plug on the box and see if anything going on their .
DISCLAIMER- I NEED TO CONFIRM (it was hot - laughing) but basically seems what is tapped in radio harness is:
1) power and ground also
2) L&R aux audio signal- interesting here is they tapped a single ground (physically next to the right signal) for common. Earlier i had the RAX hack and their harness used a ground for each L&R and their aux input worked all the time without the little plugin shunt thing to trick aux input. When i dug some more and found a pin diagram from mopar I found that the 'left' ground is actually labeled "aux audio device detect signal" I need to play some more to see what happens but my guess is if we put a switch on that to short it to ground then the aux would just work to avoid the hokey plug.
3) Here's the fun- holding the screen to flip inputs could be the daughterboard running things. BUT since it also reacts to the left steering wheel button pack and switches inputs itself when you need the reverse cam- i figured it reads the can bus. and sure enough, it looks like it taps CAN IHS (+) and CAN IHS (-). Very cool that it would get into the whole bus and read anything- BUT since there are other FCA vehicles that don't auto-switch inputs on revers and they have alternate connections it seems the real dev is not involved to update things to sniff for other reverse signals. Reading around here- seems that there is probably a custom serial port someplace in the box that reads this and there's probably no documentation for us to do anything ourselves. But one can hope...
---------- Post added at 06:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 PM ----------
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the spec for the chipset for the V4 says it can handle an OTG port and a couple (maybe 3?) other USB ports. Obviously, the box only has the one USB A port visible on the pigtail. I wish we could get in the box and look for a header for the OTG port to help rooting but.... the darn warranty sticker.
on the FCA/Dodge side of things- I have a Durango with a USB port and SD card reader in the dash (USB Media "Hub" Apparently, FCA uses USB Mini B connectors to interconnect all the ports and the radio. They use latching connectors that are keyed but if you undo them there's a standard USB mini B in there. They do some odd male/female things so you have to pay attention to where you undo cables, but bottom line you can undo the connector on the back of the dash's USB port and stuff a USB mini B female on it and connect it to whatever host device you want.
I first tried an old laptop in case there's anything weird going on. My Dash "Hub" actually has 2 mini-B connectors and a multipin auto harness. Without the harness when you connect it to windows it sees a USB Hub, but the USB port was still dead. So I assumed it needs power from the harness on the back of the dash hub and connected that. UP popped up a USB mass storage device which I believe is the SD card reader- didn't get around to confirming and then the USB port also comes to life. Knowing that it was safe at that point I connected it to the USB A Host port on the box and presto chango now I have the in-dash port connected to the android tv box without any exposed wiring.
Connected the "android auto dongle" through the cars USB port and that works perfectly. I ordered a used 2 USB dash hub from eBay (later model years have 2 and will see what that does. The pictures of that also show the 2 mini B ports- I'll play some more when I get that. I'm not sure what is in those dongles but from the other folks hacking android auto into older models (by using newer radios) apparently, one port works for android auto and the other doesn't. The scuttle is its a body module programming thing but I wonder if maybe there's something physical in there and so the dongle won't be necessary any longer with the new hub? My other thought is if the two USB min B jacks allow you to connect to 2 different hosts- I would try one on the original Uconnect (in case I ever need to update the software) and the other for the android TV box.
So apparently the android tv box handles hubs just fine. As I mentioned earlier it handles a mouse or USB keyboard fine. Also, I played around and connected my hotspot by USB instead of wifi so the device sees it as a modem and that works just fine- so I assume a USB modem works out of the box too. (again odd if that works that carperformance sells a hotspot and not USB modem- like they don't know what the box can do)

I disassembled my display 2 times until it worked. After the first start, I had a black screen. I thought that was it... After 3 times it finally worked. I also had a cable on the plug which has easily resolved. I think you will also have a loose contact somewhere. One time I also had the display calibration gone. Then I connected my old usb keyboard and could then start the display calibration. I reset the system before. So far, the system works without problems. I also have a passive 4-way usb hub to connect.
I have already connected cables for the frontcam but have not yet moved into the engine compartment.
In the video tutorial of Carperformance, you can see when you switch to drive, the display then changes to the frontcam or signal from the cam, but the display does not change to the Frontcam signal with me.
Do you have with you the signal on the display of the camera when switching to drive?

Adw2 = bad mix
Went back and forth many times in email and turns out my calibration issue was probably all ADW2 launcher, guess it conflicts with whatever app they use to communicate with the display.
in the process of troubleshooting I got the update zip for the current version but I don't think those have recovery partition in there and so can't help root? I need to read some more.
I've ripped everything apart like 12 times with the screen, so that my front cam is not connected right now. For the brief time I had it, it was connected to one of the smaller video in pin connectors and don't think it worked in drive by itself, but can't really say for certain. I think certain models can't get the canbus command to see reverse and if I understand they connect in to the video in on the main connector and then use a point on the car that is energized to trigger the switch on that connection. If your adventurous they seem to have to flip a dip also. I think it's the Cherokees or maybe grand Cherokee so maybe Google their thread's? This site gives connector pin outs
http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm
There might be a lead for the drive on your shifter if lucky. I think I read the reverse shoulder comes from a body control box in the passenger wheel well?
Also they're super friendly and never wrong when you email but they can be brief. So you could ask if there's a dipswitch to flip to enable auto switching one of the inputs. Hec maybe we should just ask for a table of where the dips do...
(Sorry for any typos... Will try to edit later)

Supposedly it is enough to connect the extra input cable for DVD or CMMB. That answered me Carperformance. Before, I had no external input cable connected. That's why no signal came. The OEM rearcam works flawlessly.

Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s

michaelk said:
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately it's not available.

Diabollon said:
Unfortunately it's not available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s

michaelk said:
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a cheaper fix but so no solution. Carperformance should offer a software update with root access. Then we would be satisfied. We should expect it for the money.
My frontcam is working now good.
You already tried Android auto? Which USB dongle do you use? Do you need a special app for this?
My China usb dongle does not want to connect properly with my oneplus 6T.
Edit:
Android auto is working with Pumpkin USB dongle and autoplaybox app. The noname China scrap goes back to shop.
The time fix is working until now also. Thanks for this info. The carperformance, they wrote or informed the affected people who ordered it. I did not get any info.

Diabollon said:
...
My frontcam is working now good.
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
besides powering your camera and connecting the yellow RCA video signal did you have to do anything else?
something with the red signal wire maybe?
I cant consistently get a signal on my front cam and not sure if the camera is bad or my setup
---------- Post added at 12:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------
few other notes for others-
FCA "aux audio device detect signal" harness line is actually normally closed (I think shorted to ground)- if you break the connection the oew radio flips right to aux in. make the connection again and it flips back to previous input.
the in dash usb port is infact a powered hub. I originally had a usb + SD card combo and replaced it with 2 usb port and works fine. FCA uses mini b connections to it- just use a usb a to mini b cable to connect it to the android auto box and your indash usb port(s) will work on android auto (And provide more watts to charge your stuff). oddly either dahs hub has a second usb mini b connector that i played around with a little but never could figure out what it does
more can bus fun! - i updated the dongle firmware on the android auto dongle sold direct from carperforance and now it has a beta feature to map buttons. somehow it seems to be sniffing the canbus through the android tv box. it has arrow keys, numbers, enter, etc and you use the app to select the input to assign then you press the same button on the car twice- it sniffs the signal and assignes it. I My durango has the button packs on the steering wheel and i was able to assign up, down, left, right and get it to have the android auto respond. Need to play more but i think it actually goes android wide. For example i think the down button on my steering wheel was sending page down to the chrome browser i had open on the box. Pretty cool stuff if they expand that.

[Help] Bricked Lumia 1020 - Blank Screen - USB Undetected

My 1020 got bricked while flashing through WPInternals.
In the middle of the flashing the USB got disconnected and after that I have blank screen. The power button pressing does make phone vibrate. Also soft reset combination makes vibration. However I am not getting anything on my laptop on USB connection. No connection notification. Nothing on device manager. I tried combinations to get it detected but nothing works.
So the question is, Is there any way I can blindly send force flashing to one of the USB port and make it happen ?
JTAG is the only option ?

Removed the display. Disconnect the battery. Remove the protective cover from the processor. Looking at the diagram R3209. Complete with a thin wire the resistor into the casing and at the same time connected to the computer. Defined as "Nokia Emergency Connectivity". After that, you run WPInternals, and continue from the point where the error occurred.

booker50rus said:
Removed the display. Disconnect the battery. Remove the protective cover from the processor. Looking at the diagram R3209. Complete with a thin wire the resistor into the casing and at the same time connected to the computer. Defined as "Nokia Emergency Connectivity". After that, you run WPInternals, and continue from the point where the error occurred.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Honestly, I did not understand what to connect to what.

Remove the display
The picture 1 shows what you need to remove. CAREFULLY remove all protection, or only in the marked area.
The picture 2 shows what you'll see under the removed protection. Looking for R3209 marked in the picture 3
After it is found, connect USB cable TO THE PHONE. NOT TO THE COMPUTER. The cable should be connected ONLY by phone
For one or two seconds before doing a short circuit of the resistor R3209 on the metal area of the body (picture 4), AND THIS TIME connect it to your computer
The phone shall be determined by the computer as "Nokia Emergency Connectivity" or "CareSuite Emergency Connectivity"
Run the program WPInternals
Make or restore the bootloader or unlock the bootloader. Depending on where you broke the phone last time.
After the program sends the phone into reboot, connect a known-CHARGED battery WITHOUT DISCONNECTING the computer. The phone should start to boot.

Have you tried all the options in WP Internals first? Including instructions on how to recover from bricked phone? I haven't got the application in front of me, but I seem to remember there are different flashing modes you should probably experiment with before opening up your phone.

GeoffreyK said:
Have you tried all the options in WP Internals first? Including instructions on how to recover from bricked phone? I haven't got the application in front of me, but I seem to remember there are different flashing modes you should probably experiment with before opening up your phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are no longer any options. The phone is not defined in any way. And no the program will not see it without initializing it as a device in the system. The only option is to short out the memory, so she rebooted. What I'm suggesting. The operation is not difficult and takes no more than 10 minutes for anything.

try to charge the phone, at least 1 hour, then try to make hard reset, that works for my

GeoffreyK said:
Have you tried all the options in WP Internals first? Including instructions on how to recover from bricked phone? I haven't got the application in front of me, but I seem to remember there are different flashing modes you should probably experiment with before opening up your phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, phone is not detected by USB connection. I have already changed USB flex cable of the phone so its not an issue.
jeovanyerazo said:
try to charge the phone, at least 1 hour, then try to make hard reset, that works for my
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Phone does not hard reset without OS in the memory.

booker50rus said:
Remove the display
The picture 1 shows what you need to remove. CAREFULLY remove all protection, or only in the marked area.
The picture 2 shows what you'll see under the removed protection. Looking for R3209 marked in the picture 3
After it is found, connect USB cable TO THE PHONE. NOT TO THE COMPUTER. The cable should be connected ONLY by phone
For one or two seconds before doing a short circuit of the resistor R3209 on the metal area of the body (picture 4), AND THIS TIME connect it to your computer
The phone shall be determined by the computer as "Nokia Emergency Connectivity" or "CareSuite Emergency Connectivity"
Run the program WPInternals
Make or restore the bootloader or unlock the bootloader. Depending on where you broke the phone last time.
After the program sends the phone into reboot, connect a known-CHARGED battery WITHOUT DISCONNECTING the computer. The phone should start to boot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will try this, need time to open the phone again. Specially I have never opened the processor part before.

Try what I told you, it's a software problem not hardware. Try hard reset.

jeovanyerazo said:
Try what I told you, it's a software problem not hardware. Try hard reset.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its a software problem only, but as I have described - mobile is not getting detected via USB and as the previous flash did not happen completely there is no OS in the memory. The phone only vibrates on power or reset combination.
On connecting the charger the start button blinks once in a while and thats the only response I am getting.

booker50rus said:
Remove the display
The picture 1 shows what you need to remove. CAREFULLY remove all protection, or only in the marked area.
The picture 2 shows what you'll see under the removed protection. Looking for R3209 marked in the picture 3
After it is found, connect USB cable TO THE PHONE. NOT TO THE COMPUTER. The cable should be connected ONLY by phone
For one or two seconds before doing a short circuit of the resistor R3209 on the metal area of the body (picture 4), AND THIS TIME connect it to your computer
The phone shall be determined by the computer as "Nokia Emergency Connectivity" or "CareSuite Emergency Connectivity"
Run the program WPInternals
Make or restore the bootloader or unlock the bootloader. Depending on where you broke the phone last time.
After the program sends the phone into reboot, connect a known-CHARGED battery WITHOUT DISCONNECTING the computer. The phone should start to boot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Super cool man, thanks. I opened only tiny window from protective cover and sorted R3209. USB was detected and restored the Bootloader. Flashing was easy after that.

booker50rus said:
Remove the display
The picture 1 shows what you need to remove. CAREFULLY remove all protection, or only in the marked area.
The picture 2 shows what you'll see under the removed protection. Looking for R3209 marked in the picture 3
After it is found, connect USB cable TO THE PHONE. NOT TO THE COMPUTER. The cable should be connected ONLY by phone
For one or two seconds before doing a short circuit of the resistor R3209 on the metal area of the body (picture 4), AND THIS TIME connect it to your computer
The phone shall be determined by the computer as "Nokia Emergency Connectivity" or "CareSuite Emergency Connectivity"
Run the program WPInternals
Make or restore the bootloader or unlock the bootloader. Depending on where you broke the phone last time.
After the program sends the phone into reboot, connect a known-CHARGED battery WITHOUT DISCONNECTING the computer. The phone should start to boot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
My 1020 got bricked while flashing with WPInternals and now won't switch on. No Vibrate when I push the power button either. I would like to try this method but can't figure out how to remove the protective plate on the CPU. I cannot find any help on Google nor YouTube. Can someone please enlighten me on which way the metal cover opens please?
Thanks in advance.

I've tried the same thing with a lumia 525 but accidently broken the resistor.. Can I do something with it?

Sometime you have to wait a few minutes or so for the phone to behave properly, especially with a blown firmware running.
There are many modes to a phone and each will be a different device to the PC.
There is normal mode
there is flash mode
there is emergency mode
and there is a recovery mode too.
and a couple of other modes uefiflash/bootemmc/bootmsc too.
each of these modes can be accessed by a combination of button presses that seems to change from phone to phone.
there is plug into usb port holding down volume up.
there is plug into usb port, hold down power and press volume down.
there is plug into usb port, hold down power and hold down volume up.
there is plug into usb port, hold down power, release, then press volume up
and like I mentioned before if the phone has a flat battery is will cycle from 0-5% battery charging then cycle 5-0% and reset the phone. it sometimes takes up to 5 min with the phone connected, trying multiple restarts to get the phone to appear to windows. sometimes it will appear and disappear, if you interrupt the boot process by having wpinternals running it will not disappear again and sometimes you have to do a complete reset cycle by holding down the power button until it vibrates with it still plugged into the pc, then immediately do another reset cycle.
the phone can crash on boot, so it fails to appear and in my experience it's behaviour is not consistent at all. boot one minute shows in device managed and then can take 10 minutes sometimes before it appears again. it seems to be very erratic behaviour. so keep at it.
opening up the phone and removing the metal shielding from the pcb to get access to the bypass test points should be a god damn last resort and not some first step as suggested to the op.
expect many pcb's to be damaged by this advice.

Ok, so I managed to remove the cover but a bit confused about the instructions for the resistor. Is there a special sort of wire I need to touch the resistor with while performing this "shorting" procedure or will any wire do? Intructions seem a little vague to the non electronically minded...

BeLlSiBuB said:
Intructions seem a little vague to the non electronically minded.
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Click to collapse
and still you've gone as far as removing the shielding?
if you think you can safely do it, the instruction state you need to short resistor R3209 as the phone boots. short means contact both sided of the resistor with something conductive and of the right shape and size to only touch those two parts of that resistor. maybe needle pointed tweezers or some tiny screwdriver?

jethro tarw said:
and still you've gone as far as removing the shielding?
if you think you can safely do it, the instruction state you need to short resistor R3209 as the phone boots. short means contact both sided of the resistor with something conductive and of the right shape and size to only touch those two parts of that resistor. maybe needle pointed tweezers or some tiny screwdriver?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude, thanx for your help! I have some metal tweezers. Do I need to put plastic protective cover on the end or them? Ive got some bubble wrap!
---------- Post added at 06:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:18 PM ----------
All I seem to get is the Windows light coming on when I try to perform this. It also come on when I press volum down or volum up button and insert the usb.
Actually, the light comes on when I put it into the electric charger (not pc charger) as well, but stays on for longer.

BeLlSiBuB said:
Dude, thanx for your help! I have some metal tweezers. Do I need to put plastic protective cover on the end or them? Ive got some bubble wrap!
---------- Post added at 06:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:18 PM ----------
All I seem to get is the Windows light coming on when I try to perform this. It also come on when I press volum down or volum up button and insert the usb.
Actually, the light comes on when I put it into the electric charger (not pc charger) as well, but stays on for longer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you just need to charge the battery.

jethro tarw said:
you just need to charge the battery.
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Click to collapse
Really?
Can WPInternals kill a battery when it "Stopped working" and crashes?
Ahh, I thought you said "Change the battery". The battery was fully charged when it got bricked. I'm not sure how to charge this battery. I left it on charge for about 4 hours before attempting shorting procedure. I don't thing it is charging while plugged in now despite that light breifly coming on.

Not connecting to pc only charging!

My note 10+ 5g is not connecting to pc but only charges when connected to pc! My phone is patched meaning imei is repaired and i wanna remove the patch by flashing the software!
I've tried different PCs but nothing happened! Bootloader is unlocked! Can someone plz help me?

Clean your usb port with say a sewing needle. The USB port is metal. And silver in bottom. If it's black or any other color it's got lint packed in it. I see this day in day out and is a common occurrence on type c ports

TheMadScientist said:
Clean your usb port with say a sewing needle. The USB port is metal. And silver in bottom. If it's black or any other color it's got lint packed in it. I see this day in day out and is a common occurrence on type c ports
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My usb port is clean! Something's wrong with the phone. I can't even flash anything

Vicky078 said:
My usb port is clean! Something's wrong with the phone. I can't even flash anything
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Send a close up picture. Everyone tells me it's clean. They cleaned it. Normally they don't. Flashing from pc ? Wouldn't that indicate a USB problem as well?

TheMadScientist said:
Send a close up picture. Everyone tells me it's clean. They cleaned it. Normally they don't. Flashing from pc ? Wouldn't that indicate a USB problem as well?
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My phone doesn't connect with the PC!

When you plug in to pc, phone should pop up a prompt asking if you want to allow the pc to access phone. Keep phone screen on and look for message at bottom of screen asking for access.
You could also check in developer settings under Default USB configuration and make sure its not set to Charging

louforgiveno said:
When you plug in to pc, phone should pop up a prompt asking if you want to allow the pc to access phone. Keep phone screen on and look for message at bottom of screen asking for access.
You could also check in developer settings under Default USB configuration and make sure its not set to Charging
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know all of this bro! I flash phones everyday! This is new to me. Someone was talking about this in another thread that a bugged software caused this problem and damaged USB port's d-/d+ points. Now i don't have much knowledge on hardware.
Only flashing a software will fix this