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my phone was working very well without any problems, but few days ago when i was at my bro's place i dont know if i slept on the phone or what but when i woke up i found that the phone had been slid out and it was restarting and the xperia play launcher was automatically launching, i couldnt understand what was wrong so i disabled launch xperia play launcher when device slide out option.
but then i found that my device does not recognize that it has been slid out i.e screen orientation does not change when device slide out also xperia play launcher does not auto launch on device slide out(when the option has been enabled).
then i saw that my screen orientation would change automatically for portrait to landscape and vice versa without any reason, some times this happens very fast and screen appears to be flickering.
the phone is acting really weird does anyone know what might be the problem and have a solution for it.
bodygaurd said:
my phone was working very well without any problems, but few days ago when i was at my bro's place i dont know if i slept on the phone or what but when i woke up i found that the phone had been slid out and it was restarting and the xperia play launcher was automatically launching, i couldnt understand what was wrong so i disabled launch xperia play launcher when device slide out option.
but then i found that my device does not recognize that it has been slid out i.e screen orientation does not change when device slide out also xperia play launcher does not auto launch on device slide out(when the option has been enabled).
then i saw that my screen orientation would change automatically for portrait to landscape and vice versa without any reason, some times this happens very fast and screen appears to be flickering.
the phone is acting really weird does anyone know what might be the problem and have a solution for it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try fixing it using the PC companion or SUS(sony update service). If you have knowledge on flashing that would be much easier and faster. You will have to install those apps to your pc of course. If it'll not work, just crossed fingers and wish it is not a hardware problem but in my experience, I even dropped my phone and slept with it but still working good. Is the touchscreen is messing? Is it responsive?
touchscreen is fully responsive no problem with touchscreen, i tried factory resetting the phone through cwm but no help. currently the phone seems to be working fine but only problem is that the phone does not detect that the gamepad has been slid out so the screen does not change orientation and also some games do not work with gamepad like PES2012 anymore.
flex cable is bad. needs replacing.
chery2k said:
flex cable is bad. needs replacing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't be so sure. There are two of those involved and a third component that's even more likely.
It could be the main slide cable (~$10), the one with the switches for Back, Home, Menu, and Search (~$4), or the metal fingers that are part of the slider assembly (~$20). It might be best just to get the whole slider assembly with cables (~$23) because it comes with all of that and then some (earpiece/camera).
Hi guys.
I reset my pixel C today, and started fresh, but my keyboard isnt pairing with the tablet...... When attached, the prompt appears to turn on BT, but the numbers requried to pair never appear, plus, when manually pairing, it just seems to time out, no numbers appear either.
Have reset tablet again, have also reset network settings, and have also tried to pair the keyboard with another device - same behaviour, time out.
Is there a hard reset available for the keyboard?
If you can pair to any other BT device then flat battery in keyboard? I've no idea how you can tell!
i use to own the folio but have sent it back. i'm not aware of a hardware reset on keyboard. however, i also had this problem and became frustrated so i just turned bluetooth off but kept the keyboard attached for about a day. the tablet had been rebooted a couple times. when i had become calm enough to turn it on i was greeted with a paired keyboard. it may have had something to do with a battery in keyboard not charing because it was not attached for a few days.
Ok, so, I had another pixel c keyboard at work (my original one, dropped it on the plane, lost 2 keys, so I ordered my current one about 2 months back). and even though that has been off for 2 months, it paired up, first time.....
So the tablet must be working fine....just seems the "current" keyboard doesnt want to re-pair.
Almost tempted to swap the missing keys onto the old one.....just afraid I'd screw that up
sephstyler said:
Ok, so, I had another pixel c keyboard at work (my original one, dropped it on the plane, lost 2 keys, so I ordered my current one about 2 months back). and even though that has been off for 2 months, it paired up, first time.....
So the tablet must be working fine....just seems the "current" keyboard doesnt want to re-pair.
Almost tempted to swap the missing keys onto the old one.....just afraid I'd screw that up
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Anyways, Contacted google this morning. RMA on its way
is the new one working? i'm having the same issue
peterk-1 said:
If you can pair to any other BT device then flat battery in keyboard? I've no idea how you can tell!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be my first guess.
I lost my keyboard after the 7.0 upgrade. I am not sure, but I don't think I ever had keyboard after that. I have done hard reboots and "forgot" the keyboard along with every other BT device. Then I pair, key in the six digit number <ENTER> and it sits there saying Connecting... forever.
I bought mine in early June(Pixel and keyboard). It is not rooted and stock. Who is the to call about this?
SpringerRider said:
I lost my keyboard after the 7.0 upgrade. I am not sure, but I don't think I ever had keyboard after that. I have done hard reboots and "forgot" the keyboard along with every other BT device. Then I pair, key in the six digit number <ENTER> and it sits there saying Connecting... forever.
I bought mine in early June(Pixel and keyboard). It is not rooted and stock. Who is the to call about this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I contacted tech support. They had me go to safe mode and pair and connect to keyboard. No change.
But then he asked if I could give him the serial number of the keyboard. I removed it from the tablet to search. Of course, there is no SN on the keyboard but I did find it on the box. While re-attaching the keyboard, it CONNECTED for the first time in days!!!! I rebooted in normal mode and it still worked. I unpaired and re-paired and it connected immediately.
I had the tech cancel the RMA for now.
I'm having this issue after returning to 7.1.2 from the Android O beta. Contacted support they were baffled. Keyboard out of warranty so no go on an RMA. Doesn't connect to my pixel or pixel c says incorrect passkey but never gives an option to enter one.
Try this, I finally got mine working after probably more than a year of not working at all... https://forum.xda-developers.com/pixel-c/help/finally-fix-bluetooth-keyboard-pairing-t3647393
---------- Post added at 10:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:45 PM ----------
sephstyler said:
Hi guys.
I reset my pixel C today, and started fresh, but my keyboard isnt pairing with the tablet...... When attached, the prompt appears to turn on BT, but the numbers requried to pair never appear, plus, when manually pairing, it just seems to time out, no numbers appear either.
Have reset tablet again, have also reset network settings, and have also tried to pair the keyboard with another device - same behaviour, time out.
Is there a hard reset available for the keyboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
neonlite said:
is the new one working? i'm having the same issue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
SpringerRider said:
I contacted tech support. They had me go to safe mode and pair and connect to keyboard. No change.
But then he asked if I could give him the serial number of the keyboard. I removed it from the tablet to search. Of course, there is no SN on the keyboard but I did find it on the box. While re-attaching the keyboard, it CONNECTED for the first time in days!!!! I rebooted in normal mode and it still worked. I unpaired and re-paired and it connected immediately.
I had the tech cancel the RMA for now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mwl1119 said:
I'm having this issue after returning to 7.1.2 from the Android O beta. Contacted support they were baffled. Keyboard out of warranty so no go on an RMA. Doesn't connect to my pixel or pixel c says incorrect passkey but never gives an option to enter one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try this, I finally got mine working after probably more than a year of not working at all... https://forum.xda-developers.com/pixel-c/help/finally-fix-bluetooth-keyboard-pairing-t3647393
I am hoping I can find some help in here with a couple problems I am running into on this system that would make it so much better to me.
The system is basically an Android box utilizing the touch screen and monitor of my Uconnect 8.4 head unit. The naming in the settings is rk3188 and is running on KitKat 4.4.4, so it is some variant of the Android TV boxes. If there are other specs or info that are needed to help in possibly fixing my issues please let me know.
Issue 1: although not major, there is no option to have OK Google from any screen. Having this option for a car system is obviously something helpful. In the settings of the Google App trying to access the menu for OK Google detection doesn't work, so I can't even get to the screen where that option lives. I have the most up to date version of Google App and Google Play Services. I have Google searched on ways to fix this but nothing has brought that ability up. I know Android version 4.4.4 was capable of this. There was another app that utilized Googles voice engine and allowed this function but Google made him stop using their servers and killed that as an option.
Issue 2: this is the biggest bother to me and I could not find anything even related to what's happening in my searches. The system comes loaded with some apps and using Launcher3 for its front end, it has big buttons but offers almost no ability to customize it. The bottom row has apps that you cannot switch out to anything else, and 3 of them I will never be using. The system works but is not as nice as it could look or function. The obvious answer is to use a different launcher which is where the problem arises. I have tried to use Nova and Apex so far with the same very frustrating outcome. After the install everything is great, I can set the screen up to look amazing and add icons and functionality that really make it a great experience. So everything is working lovely then I shut my truck off and go do whatever. The next time I come back I start the truck up everything loads fine, the new launcher and everything I did to it is working just as expected until about 5 minutes in the screen goes black for a second and then the system goes through a factory reset. Really? Are you kidding me? The first couple times I thought maybe I hit something because I hadn't fully put my truck back together but after playing with it more and having the system factory reset 5 other times I have concluded it is related to changing the launcher. I tried Nova first, then I tried Apex with the same outcome and same sequence of events. Obviously it's annoying everytime testing this because updating and reentering my info everytime just to try the launcher again is time consuming. The last test the only thing I did was a different launcher so that has to be it, but why and how can I fix it?
If anyone has any clue how using a different launcher would cause a factory reset to happen please help me out. Or if there is anything I can do to this system to prevent that. My last resort thought would be to root it but I read someone else who has this system that rooting it caused screen layout issues and made things go 90 degrees off? The loaded apps in the system have touch screen calibration and screen resizing which might be necessary for this to function with the monitor.
Thanks for any help.
I spoke with someone else that has the system and they are not having any issues with running a different launcher so something happen to my particular device. I contacted the company and they will be getting me the firmware to refresh it and hopefully that fixes the resetting issue.
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
RichTJ99 said:
i am looking to get this also. I am very curious how you like the device - it looks great though a bit out of date. Waze & email should work well. How much storage does it have? Can you add a sd card or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm getting a new unit sent out, it seems there are 2 versions and for whatever reason mine wouldn't let me customize the launcher.
But even though it's outdated, every app I tried worked just fine, they still install the latest versions. The system has 8gb of on board storage and a microSD card slot that is mainly for loading maps for offline navigation. I think you can still access it for other uses, but they have a better option for that. There is a USB input for flash drives or external drives. I tried my 2TB external drive on it and it accessed my movies fine from it.
How did you get it installed? Who?
got any pics?
Actually I would be interested in this too, I have an Alfa Romeo and the Uconnect 6.5 (european version) which isn't that great, it would be nice to attach a sort of box with ARM hardware running on Android and using the display and touch of the existing Uconnect. The question is, how this can be done?
http://www.dodgedurango.net/forums/.../24632-android-phone-uconnect-8-4-screen.html
I would check out this thread. It has two videos that walk you through the entire process - great info!
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Diabollon said:
I also bought this latest Android system V4 2 weeks ago. Auto launcher pro app is very good working. At the moment there is a issue with the system time, which is not correctly synchronized with gps time. Carperformance Team is working on a fix for that. How can I get root Access for this Android 7 System?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi @michaelk
Good to hear that I am not alone here with this special system V4. Except for the issue with the system time and no root access, I am fully satisfied so far. I hope to fix it soon. If we had root access then we could solve this issue with the system time with some time apps ourselves.
Thank you for your experiences.
Best regards
Diabollon
wiring harness investigation
so played around some today.
I've got an issue where I need to recalibrate the screen almost every time I boot. it seems the box (or card added to the radio?) forgets things and only works the bottom right corner and also seems to rotate 90 degrees at boot. The end result is unusable screen. I think carperformance is just a reseller because of their response. They're friendly and reply quickly but are really unable to help. The first answer was just randomly fiddle with screen and try to find calibrate setting and reboot- that proved impossible and on my own I discovered a 6 dollar USB mouse from the Walmart could be used to navigate to the calibrate app. When I inquired again when it got more frequent they basically said it's not normal and offered no help except to adjust a personalization setting to run calibrate on boot- that only works once that I can figure (might be related to weird time bug)- so I settled on having tasker run calibrate on each boot. I wonder if there is a battery in the box that needs changing but the warranty sticker keeps me out for not- might add an external battery to keep it alive for a longer time to minimize the rebooting
Anyway took everything apart today to double-check and can't find any connection issues. I traced the harness a bit to try and understand a little and basically, the skinny cables run the daughterboard to snag the screen output and the touchscreen input. But i wanted to figure out what is tapped from the radio harness to the large white plug on the box and see if anything going on their .
DISCLAIMER- I NEED TO CONFIRM (it was hot - laughing) but basically seems what is tapped in radio harness is:
1) power and ground also
2) L&R aux audio signal- interesting here is they tapped a single ground (physically next to the right signal) for common. Earlier i had the RAX hack and their harness used a ground for each L&R and their aux input worked all the time without the little plugin shunt thing to trick aux input. When i dug some more and found a pin diagram from mopar I found that the 'left' ground is actually labeled "aux audio device detect signal" I need to play some more to see what happens but my guess is if we put a switch on that to short it to ground then the aux would just work to avoid the hokey plug.
3) Here's the fun- holding the screen to flip inputs could be the daughterboard running things. BUT since it also reacts to the left steering wheel button pack and switches inputs itself when you need the reverse cam- i figured it reads the can bus. and sure enough, it looks like it taps CAN IHS (+) and CAN IHS (-). Very cool that it would get into the whole bus and read anything- BUT since there are other FCA vehicles that don't auto-switch inputs on revers and they have alternate connections it seems the real dev is not involved to update things to sniff for other reverse signals. Reading around here- seems that there is probably a custom serial port someplace in the box that reads this and there's probably no documentation for us to do anything ourselves. But one can hope...
---------- Post added at 06:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:07 PM ----------
michaelk said:
glad to hear i'm not going crazy with the clock but there is an issue.
I just bought and installed a V4 a couple weeks back too.
i must have left a loose connection cause i keep having to recall the touchscreen for android. I half-arsed the install cause we were leaving for a 2k mile roadtrip the next day- need to take it apart and do it right. Luckily you can connect a usb mouse in to trigger the calibration app.
id also love root- at the moment im trying to figure out if the one usb port is safe to connect an A to A usb cable into to get ADB. apparently on some versions of nvida sheild, you can. If they provide a firmware update for the clock fix then maybe that gets us an image to futz with for root.
a keyboard also works in teh usb port and i've tried a handful of key combos during boot to get to recovery but haven't stumbled on it yet.
I'll post back if i find anything
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the spec for the chipset for the V4 says it can handle an OTG port and a couple (maybe 3?) other USB ports. Obviously, the box only has the one USB A port visible on the pigtail. I wish we could get in the box and look for a header for the OTG port to help rooting but.... the darn warranty sticker.
on the FCA/Dodge side of things- I have a Durango with a USB port and SD card reader in the dash (USB Media "Hub" Apparently, FCA uses USB Mini B connectors to interconnect all the ports and the radio. They use latching connectors that are keyed but if you undo them there's a standard USB mini B in there. They do some odd male/female things so you have to pay attention to where you undo cables, but bottom line you can undo the connector on the back of the dash's USB port and stuff a USB mini B female on it and connect it to whatever host device you want.
I first tried an old laptop in case there's anything weird going on. My Dash "Hub" actually has 2 mini-B connectors and a multipin auto harness. Without the harness when you connect it to windows it sees a USB Hub, but the USB port was still dead. So I assumed it needs power from the harness on the back of the dash hub and connected that. UP popped up a USB mass storage device which I believe is the SD card reader- didn't get around to confirming and then the USB port also comes to life. Knowing that it was safe at that point I connected it to the USB A Host port on the box and presto chango now I have the in-dash port connected to the android tv box without any exposed wiring.
Connected the "android auto dongle" through the cars USB port and that works perfectly. I ordered a used 2 USB dash hub from eBay (later model years have 2 and will see what that does. The pictures of that also show the 2 mini B ports- I'll play some more when I get that. I'm not sure what is in those dongles but from the other folks hacking android auto into older models (by using newer radios) apparently, one port works for android auto and the other doesn't. The scuttle is its a body module programming thing but I wonder if maybe there's something physical in there and so the dongle won't be necessary any longer with the new hub? My other thought is if the two USB min B jacks allow you to connect to 2 different hosts- I would try one on the original Uconnect (in case I ever need to update the software) and the other for the android TV box.
So apparently the android tv box handles hubs just fine. As I mentioned earlier it handles a mouse or USB keyboard fine. Also, I played around and connected my hotspot by USB instead of wifi so the device sees it as a modem and that works just fine- so I assume a USB modem works out of the box too. (again odd if that works that carperformance sells a hotspot and not USB modem- like they don't know what the box can do)
I disassembled my display 2 times until it worked. After the first start, I had a black screen. I thought that was it... After 3 times it finally worked. I also had a cable on the plug which has easily resolved. I think you will also have a loose contact somewhere. One time I also had the display calibration gone. Then I connected my old usb keyboard and could then start the display calibration. I reset the system before. So far, the system works without problems. I also have a passive 4-way usb hub to connect.
I have already connected cables for the frontcam but have not yet moved into the engine compartment.
In the video tutorial of Carperformance, you can see when you switch to drive, the display then changes to the frontcam or signal from the cam, but the display does not change to the Frontcam signal with me.
Do you have with you the signal on the display of the camera when switching to drive?
Adw2 = bad mix
Went back and forth many times in email and turns out my calibration issue was probably all ADW2 launcher, guess it conflicts with whatever app they use to communicate with the display.
in the process of troubleshooting I got the update zip for the current version but I don't think those have recovery partition in there and so can't help root? I need to read some more.
I've ripped everything apart like 12 times with the screen, so that my front cam is not connected right now. For the brief time I had it, it was connected to one of the smaller video in pin connectors and don't think it worked in drive by itself, but can't really say for certain. I think certain models can't get the canbus command to see reverse and if I understand they connect in to the video in on the main connector and then use a point on the car that is energized to trigger the switch on that connection. If your adventurous they seem to have to flip a dip also. I think it's the Cherokees or maybe grand Cherokee so maybe Google their thread's? This site gives connector pin outs
http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm
There might be a lead for the drive on your shifter if lucky. I think I read the reverse shoulder comes from a body control box in the passenger wheel well?
Also they're super friendly and never wrong when you email but they can be brief. So you could ask if there's a dipswitch to flip to enable auto switching one of the inputs. Hec maybe we should just ask for a table of where the dips do...
(Sorry for any typos... Will try to edit later)
Supposedly it is enough to connect the extra input cable for DVD or CMMB. That answered me Carperformance. Before, I had no external input cable connected. That's why no signal came. The OEM rearcam works flawlessly.
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
michaelk said:
Also, I forgot, they have a workaround for the clock bug
For the clock there is a fix
https://www.youtube.com/watchv=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately it's not available.
Diabollon said:
Unfortunately it's not available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
michaelk said:
try this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OEEbah53QY&t=1s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a cheaper fix but so no solution. Carperformance should offer a software update with root access. Then we would be satisfied. We should expect it for the money.
My frontcam is working now good.
You already tried Android auto? Which USB dongle do you use? Do you need a special app for this?
My China usb dongle does not want to connect properly with my oneplus 6T.
Edit:
Android auto is working with Pumpkin USB dongle and autoplaybox app. The noname China scrap goes back to shop.
The time fix is working until now also. Thanks for this info. The carperformance, they wrote or informed the affected people who ordered it. I did not get any info.
Diabollon said:
...
My frontcam is working now good.
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
besides powering your camera and connecting the yellow RCA video signal did you have to do anything else?
something with the red signal wire maybe?
I cant consistently get a signal on my front cam and not sure if the camera is bad or my setup
---------- Post added at 12:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------
few other notes for others-
FCA "aux audio device detect signal" harness line is actually normally closed (I think shorted to ground)- if you break the connection the oew radio flips right to aux in. make the connection again and it flips back to previous input.
the in dash usb port is infact a powered hub. I originally had a usb + SD card combo and replaced it with 2 usb port and works fine. FCA uses mini b connections to it- just use a usb a to mini b cable to connect it to the android auto box and your indash usb port(s) will work on android auto (And provide more watts to charge your stuff). oddly either dahs hub has a second usb mini b connector that i played around with a little but never could figure out what it does
more can bus fun! - i updated the dongle firmware on the android auto dongle sold direct from carperforance and now it has a beta feature to map buttons. somehow it seems to be sniffing the canbus through the android tv box. it has arrow keys, numbers, enter, etc and you use the app to select the input to assign then you press the same button on the car twice- it sniffs the signal and assignes it. I My durango has the button packs on the steering wheel and i was able to assign up, down, left, right and get it to have the android auto respond. Need to play more but i think it actually goes android wide. For example i think the down button on my steering wheel was sending page down to the chrome browser i had open on the box. Pretty cool stuff if they expand that.
Got the new controller for the Shield Pro 2015 edition. Great form factor, much better than the original. However, it cannot be used with the 2015 unit yet. Problem is when you take it out of box and turn it on, it immediately goes into pairing mode, the unit detects it but when you try to push an action key on the controller to accept the new controller on the pairing screen, it will not respond. Then it will finally go back to main screen only to endlessly repeat the pairing screen. There is no light on the power key anymore so there is no way to tell if the thing is on or off. Also, long pressing the gamepads on button will not stop the repeating of the pairing signal. Called Nvidia, they said this is normal but it should work as a normal controller for now, until update/ if plugged into unit via USB. No go there either. There is not indicator other than when you first plug in a power cable and it vibrates to let you know that it's getting power but no indicator light to tell you when it is fully charged. I had to put it back in the box and move into another room far away from shield unit just to be able to stop it from trying to pair every two minutes or so. Anyone else have any success with this. I'm thinking the controller may be a defective one.
Found solution in another blog: I got the new controller for the 2015 shield pro and found out the hard way that it doesn't quite work as it's supposed to yet. However instead of "adding shield accessory" (which continuously found it but failed to pair it) I was able to "add a Bluetooth device" and it paired and works perfectly. For anyone else that may have jumped the gun on the new controller with the older system.
It works fantastic.
I think you need the new 5.0 update, that hopefully coming soon.
I have an iPega 9025. I haven't used it in a while, and wanted to try it with a new phone (LG G7). When I hooked it up last night I got strange behavior. In gamepad mode (Home + X), the buttons work, but the sticks and triggers (that should show up as axes) seem to drop out intermittently. They worked for a bit, then stopped.
I visited https://html5gamepad.com/ and all the regular buttons work but the analog sticks were not showing any movement. I happened to move a stick while scrolling the screen, and it registered. I tested some more and confirmed, all 6 axes (2 sticks plus 2 triggers) registered movement but only when I had a finger on the touchscreen (!).
I've tried forgetting the controller and connecting it again, but I can't get the sticks to show up reliably. Has anybody had an issue like this before? I've read about people flashing new firmware, would that help? I couldn't find any information about firmware on iPega's website.
Found on another post: there's a reset button on the back of the controller. 5 seconds with a paper clip, delete pairing on the phone, pair again, and it works perfectly. No idea what went wrong.