I have read that you hook up Blue (Ant, Cont) wire to power factory antenna amp. I am guessing this puts out 12V, to power the amp. I have also read that you hook this blue wire to 12V. Not sure who to believe. I just want to make sure I am hooking this wire up correctly.
My question is do I hook this up to anything if my antenna does not have a factory antenna amp. I know my car does not have one as it is a 2003 Ford Escape and just the basic antenna. My radio reception is pretty weak but looking for ideas on how to improve radio reception.
I have a MTCB Joying 4.4
Thanks
Related
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=360148804997
I bought one of these antennas with 3.5 mm jacks.
Will this let me play the radio stations I like?
Specifically I listen to 102.7 and 105.9 and 106.7
They are all music stations.
Any thoughts on this?
if it's not an active antenna which require power over the connector it should
an antenna is just a wire you can even connect a tv antenna from the roof if your house
if you put an 3.5mm connector on it
Hi all,
I am trying to install the above into an Audi A4 which is a canbus vehicle.
I got everything plugged in and it all looked to be working fine but after 2-3 minutes the unit always switches itself off. I have noticed the Canbus adapter always gets very hot as well just before the unit switches off.
Could I have connected something incorrectly for this behaviour to occur?
Thanks
Please be more specific.
Do you have ISO connectors?
The CanBus module should be allready wired to the comnector. It was not? If no, post the wiring diagram received (maybe you feed 12 V in a 5V input?....).
În order to get help post pictures and more info.
Hi. The fitting kit I have used is the following;
http://caraudiosecurity.com/ctkau02-audi-a4-2002-2006-complete-double-din-facia-kit
The Canbus adapter is plugged in via the attachment to the ISO cable.
Let me know if you need any pictures.
Thanks
I'm sure there is no easy way to find the problem.
I would do the following :
First make sure that all pins in all connectors are firmly in their place (see below the example).
Get correct pinout data for all connectors (Car connectors, HU, the adaptor kit and the CanBus module and also the pinout for the old stereo). When searching for the car connectors pinout make sure you find the correct one (year, model, audio system type, etc).
After having all the data you should search for any mismatch (power instead of data, different voltages, etc).
I recomend this beacuase I bumped in a similar problem with my car. I have a Mazda 6 and for the same model and year the car Hu connector differs for the Bose system version and the non Bose version, and the pinout of the adapter and Hu is not taking in consideration this posibility. Therefore I had to cut and reconnect some wires.
And one more thing : when I installed my Hu, some pins slipped out of their slots inside the connectors and my CanBus module was beep-ing constantly and the Hu was not starting at all. I had to use a very thin metal rod to push them back into position (with the connectors plugged in).
Thanks for your help. It turns out a Parrot bluetooth module was installed at some point and they have a good mess with the wiring and piggubacked onto the cars wiring. I am having to use that to power the unit now as it stops it turning off after 3 minutes. My next problem is that I don't have the steering controls option available in the settings menu. Any idea why?
If you are using CanBus you do not need that menu. The Hu has two 5V out and two inputs. If you have non CanBus Swc you need to take the 5V wire, pass it through your Swc and then to the Hu Swc input (the clasic controls usses resistors with different values for each button that atenuates the 5V from the Hu in different values for each button pressed and the Hu read that value through the swv input). So if your 5V wire and Swc input is not connected, you will not have the menu available. Once connected you must first go to factory menu and define each button (see the user manual))
Marmalux said:
If you are using CanBus you do not need that menu. The Hu has two 5V out and two inputs. If you have non CanBus Swc you need to take the 5V wire, pass it through your Swc and then to the Hu Swc input (the clasic controls usses resistors with different values for each button that atenuates the 5V from the Hu in different values for each button pressed and the Hu read that value through the swv input). So if your 5V wire and Swc input is not connected, you will not have the menu available. Once connected you must first go to factory menu and define each button (see the user manual))
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I've attached some pictures to show how the unit is connected to the Canbus adapter.
Key1 5V is connected to its equivalent going to the Canbus adapter.
Key2 5V is as above
GND is as above
Do I have it correct and am I just required to correctly map the buttons now?
Thanks
Still can't get this working.
Should I reset the headunit, update MCU and software or does it look like my wiring is wrong?
Thanks
No one can help you without being there. If you do no have the skills to do it yourself you should go to a electronics service.
As I said, you have to analyze all data. You must get all pin-outs and characteristics for your car.
You must know if your Swc is resistive or Can-bus.
With the car main stereo connectors pinout you will see what you have (resistive Swc, Can-bus wires, external amp signal, etc) and theirs place in the connector.
With the Hu pinout you will know what does the Hu can provide and what pins you should use.
And in your case you have a adapter in the middle, for witch you also need the pinout to make sure that everything is routed correctly.
After you have a clear diagram for your car you must check if fizicaly everything is as it should be.
How to get the pin-outs?
The Hu pinout should be on a sticker on the Hu itself.
For the car connectors you must first decode you vin and get info like year, options, version (usualy a more detailed pinout you find if you search the old stereo pin-out by it's exact make and model).
And for the adapter you must get it from the seller or from the Internet.
You said that before you, someone made modifications to wiring; this is one more reasons to get all informations and make yourself a clear wiring diagram for you to be able to start troubleshooting.
I realy wish I could help more but I can't, and there is nobody else that can give you help without being there to see (otherwise it would allready said sommething)
Best regards!
So, I've had this idea for a while, and I managed to build a semi-working prototype of them. Basically, I'm looking to convert them into something that can be used both wired and wireless via bluetooth. I know they have a wireless version of these headphones, but I already have the wired ones, and I prefer the look of the wired ones more. My prototype consisted of some cheap BT earbuds that I took the electronics out of and soldered wires from where the earbud speakers were soldered to where the 3.5mm jack was connected (i know that they probably shouldn't be directly on them and should probably have a diode or something to prevent signal from going out the port, but I'm never going to be using the wired and wireless at the same time so not much point, plus, it was a prototype). Anyway, in my attempts to turn it into a more permanent solution inside the cups, I managed to fry the board for the cheap BT earbuds. So the project went on the shelf (figuratively) for a while. Now, I'd like to actually get this done as I'm getting an Android Wear 2.0 device soon. Suggestions on a micro form factor bluetooth audio receiver? Also, another thing is that the headphones themselves use a 1.5V AA battery to power the bass stuff, would it be possible to use the existing battery compartment for powering the chip, perhaps using a similar size Li-Po battery that is 5 volts that is run in series to both the headphones board (down volted to 1.5v) and the BT chip? I'm also looking for some advice on how to control the power to the BT chip without having to open the things up as it requires a screwdriver. button poking through the side of the cup? or a switch under an earmuff? Basically looking for part idea and other suggestions.
It's nice to see someone skullcandys as most headphones that get nodded are the expensive kinds, I like the style and simplicity of Skullcandy so I'll chime in.
Bluetooth: as for the circuitry I haven't been able to find a standalone board for purchase, you could try one of those cheap "make any headphones Bluetooth" adapter and re use the guts. Also I've seen a few that use 16ohm drivers instead of 32 so that could cause issues
Charging: since you're using the crusher amplified one, thats gonna be tricky. From the Bluetooth headphones I've torn apart, they usually have a charging ic that matches the battery's may(i.e. 800mah or so). You might have to make another circuit like a micro USB to a multi battery charger ic but that also poses it's own issues with the bass circuit and the Bluetooth board circuit so it would be a gamble. Kinda makes it seem like you'll need a Bluetooth headphones, with built in haptic feedback as a donor to work.
Switches/buttons: you'll probably have to get crafty with a Dremel and some switches. I've though of doing this and Drew up some plans where I just mount buttons through the plastic and wire it to whatever it needs connection to. I haven't found adequate buttons for this though.
Honestly I hate to say it as I love a good project where you get what you want from making it. But the crusher wireless sound like a better fool proof option.
I recently purchased an Erisin head unit and for the most part I'm really happy with it. It was plug and play with my BOSE system although I am a little worried I haven't attached the amp control cable (not sure where its supposed to attach) and it still works with my BOSE system despite it having separate amplifiers.
There is however a fair bit of static noise which appears to be alternator noise as there is no noise when the engine is off and increases with engine RPM. I've been told this is a grounding issue. When people say this are they referring to grounding within the amp or grounding within my car? Also would shielding the amplifier and cables help? Reducing cable length by cutting and soldering them? I believe ferrite beads can work with EMI, would they work?
The main reason for this post is to ask whether anyone has successfully used a USB DAC with a PX5 unit as I read a lot about it not working with these units. If this is possible how is this done? USB DAC going back into the RCA analogue inputs? How does the amp then know that its audio is re-routed back to itself?
Cheers,
Mike
Your grounds need to stay away from any audio signal wires and need to be as short as possible to avoid picking up noise from other wires in the car.
Also your signal wires need to be as short of a run and try to keep away from other power cords. If possible rca wires are the easiest way to reject noise but that's only if the amp will actually reject the noise that the rca pick up.
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gjkrisa said:
Your grounds need to stay away from any audio signal wires and need to be as short as possible to avoid picking up noise from other wires in the car.
Also your signal wires need to be as short of a run and try to keep away from other power cords. If possible rca wires are the easiest way to reject noise but that's only if the amp will actually reject the noise that the rca pick up.
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So should I cut the RCA outputs from the HU and solder them to the RCA inputs on the supplied harness as short as what is reasonable? Then as for grounds, I assume the ground is within the same harness as all the audio, I should find a new ground for it?
Cheers,
Mike
Do not cut the rcas there best left how they are but if you dac isn't Meant to run in a vehicle that may be your issue it's not been set up to reject noise from in a car specially if it was cheap.
if you get something like a Rockford Fosgate Punch PBR400X4D if size is an issue would be better as far as not needing to deal with so much trouble shooting to get ride of the noise.
Most car amifiers know how to reject the noise from the cables these days thru rca I'm not so sure about home audio dacs.
I'm sure it is possible to do what you want to do but your going to probably need every trick to stay away from putting noise into the lines.
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gjkrisa said:
Do not cut the rcas there best left how they are but if you dac isn't Meant to run in a vehicle that may be your issue it's not been set up to reject noise from in a car specially if it was cheap.
if you get something like a Rockford Fosgate Punch PBR400X4D if size is an issue would be better as far as not needing to deal with so much trouble shooting to get ride of the noise.
Most car amifiers know how to reject the noise from the cables these days thru rca I'm not so sure about home audio dacs.
I'm sure it is possible to do what you want to do but your going to probably need every trick to stay away from putting noise into the lines.
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Click to collapse
Sorry I maybe wasn't all that clear. The USB dac question was separate. I'm getting alot of what I assume is alternator noise as it's only when the engine is on and increases with rpm. Interestingly it goes when the car is moving and there's no throttle. Not sure if alternators run if there's no fuel input or something.
As of yet I've determined it's a grounding issue. Does that mean grounding within the amp? The unit is an erisin unit and was supposed to be plug and play which for the most part it seems to be but I know the bose pin in the audi is to ground the HUs internal amplifier and I'm not sure it the android unit does that.
As of yet I've not tried anything so any suggestions are good.
Mike
mh5039 said:
Sorry I maybe wasn't all that clear. The USB dac question was separate. I'm getting alot of what I assume is alternator noise as it's only when the engine is on and increases with rpm. Interestingly it goes when the car is moving and there's no throttle. Not sure if alternators run if there's no fuel input or something.
As of yet I've determined it's a grounding issue. Does that mean grounding within the amp? The unit is an erisin unit and was supposed to be plug and play which for the most part it seems to be but I know the bose pin in the audi is to ground the HUs internal amplifier and I'm not sure it the android unit does that.
As of yet I've not tried anything so any suggestions are good.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes the alternator will usually run all the time except in newer vehicles .
Ok that's good that you don't need to figure out if it's signal going to an external amp. Have you tried emailing the maker it shouldn't be an issue with ground inside the hu.
I'm surprised no one else is commenting on this but from this point I'd have to see pictures of what's going on and maybe a drawn out wire diagram.
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gjkrisa said:
Yes the alternator will usually run all the time except in newer vehicles .
Ok that's good that you don't need to figure out if it's signal going to an external amp. Have you tried emailing the maker it shouldn't be an issue with ground inside the hu.
I'm surprised no one else is commenting on this but from this point I'd have to see pictures of what's going on and maybe a drawn out wire diagram.
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Aye I'd assume they would but if I go down a hill and take my foot off the throttle, so the ecu would cut out the fuel supply, I'd assume the alternator would be generating a current as the engine is still moving but the noise stops.
Actually maybe I shouldn't sound so confident, my browsing of forums suggests it's a grounding issue but I actually have very little knowledge of electronics. All I know is that I've taken out an Audi Rns-e OEM head unit in a car with separate OEM installed amplifier as part of the bose sound system upgrade.
There's no noise when the engine is off, the noise starts when the engine is turned on and is effected when you turn screen brightness up, and when you touch the screen. It also increases with rpm. There is a range of low and high frequency noise.
The head unit bought:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/383205297789
They have offered me a refund if I want it but I do actually like the unit, the sound quality isn't bad and the functionality is so good. So if it's something I can fix Id rather fix it. They've suggested using a high to low converter in what I think is using the amps amplifier and converting that input back down to use as the line input for mine but I see no point in having a good amp to do that. But I suppose that should give some insight into where the issue comes from.
Hey Everyone,
Quick question for the more experienced Android HU installers.
In one of my vehicles I have a Dasaita Max6 android head unit and love it so I'd like to get one for my other car.
Unfortunately though, I have an older car with an oldschool antenna that goes up and down. However, with my aftermarket cd player in there now, whenever it powers on my antenna goes up. This is actually a problem going through car washes etc.
My goal is to have the antenna go up only when I open the FM radio app on an android head unit, instead of going up when using say, navigation or bluetooth.
Are there any head units that have a 12v output only when the radio app is launched?
Ultimately, I might just put a switch on the dash to control the antenna motor instead, but I thought I'd check here first.
Thanks!
No, you can't assign an app to the power antenna lead. It sure would be a neat idea, but the antenna lead is not software driven and there is no way to make it that way. It's purely hardware driven.
A switch on the dash, or just turning the head unit off is your only answer.