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I want to take an old set of headphones and cut the headphones off and make an fm antenna out of the cord and plug. Once I plug the cord in however, will it still let me use my bluetooth stero headset to listen the the radio?
ElAguila said:
I want to take an old set of headphones and cut the headphones off and make an fm antenna out of the cord and plug. Once I plug the cord in however, will it still let me use my bluetooth stero headset to listen the the radio?
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I'm not positive, but I believe that when you plug into the headphone jack, it overrides the option for bluetooth.
Not to mention, if you just cut the headphones off, there won't be a complete circuit. If the phone doesn't detect a circuit, it may not even recognize that the wire is plugged in. If you cut the phones off and twist the wires together, it would make a circuit, but MAY cause a short, potentially damaging the phone. I know the signal to the headphones is a very low voltage, but with no resistance at all, it may be enough to do damage.
thenewguy821 said:
I'm not positive, but I believe that when you plug into the headphone jack, it overrides the option for bluetooth.
Not to mention, if you just cut the headphones off, there won't be a complete circuit. If the phone doesn't detect a circuit, it may not even recognize that the wire is plugged in. If you cut the phones off and twist the wires together, it would make a circuit, but MAY cause a short, potentially damaging the phone. I know the signal to the headphones is a very low voltage, but with no resistance at all, it may be enough to do damage.
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I'm not sure that's right. If I remember correctly, FM only requires a dipole antenna (single wire, ie a car antenna), and AM requires a loop antenna. Also, I know that none of my headphones create a closed circuit, that's what the little black bars are on the plugs, they separate the different connections from touching, hence you get stereo sound.
muzz3256 said:
I'm not sure that's right. If I remember correctly, FM only requires a dipole antenna (single wire, ie a car antenna), and AM requires a loop antenna. Also, I know that none of my headphones create a closed circuit, that's what the little black bars are on the plugs, they separate the different connections from touching, hence you get stereo sound.
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There are 3 contacts (The metal part between the black separations) on a Headphone plug. +Left, +Right, and -Common (Used both L and R). A Stereo Phone headset has 4 contact points ( +L, +R, Mic and -Common) The Speaker in a headphone acts as a resistor in the complete circuit from the +L to -Common and +R to -Common. While it is true that FM doesn't require a loop antenna, the Phone, which requires a headset to be used as an antenna will not recognize there is a headphone connected if there is no circuit. (If there is no Speaker between the positive and negative lead of the headphone wire)
To add to this, if you use a regular headphone, rather than a phone headset, it doesn't make a very good connection, and has very limited, if any FM reception.
With regard to the bluetooth question, all you need to do is connect to bt after you plug in the headphones. I believe the evo just outputs to the last connected item.
Why bother cutting up the headphones and then not being sure if it works. Just leave the headphones plugged on as is and connect to you bt.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App
Thanks to all for you input. I was going to remove the headset because I wanted to make an antenna that I could carry in my pocket when walking without the bulky headphones sticking out of my pocket.
ElAguila said:
Thanks to all for you input. I was going to remove the headset because I wanted to make an antenna that I could carry in my pocket when walking without the bulky headphones sticking out of my pocket.
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Pick up a cheap set of earbuds. They are small enough they shouldn't be too bulky in your pocket.
After the release of Froyo I picked up the desktop dock. However, I found that when both line out audio and the micro usb charger are connect to the back of the dock, electrical noise/static comes out from the speakers (connected to line out).
I have replicated this with two different micro usb chargers. The wall charger that came with the dock and a car usb charger. The audio is perfect when only the line out is connect to the dock. But, as soon as a charger cable is connected static/noise immediately starts up.
Has anyone here both charged and used line out audio without any issues? Suggesting that I may have a defective unit, terrible power, unshielded audio cable, etc.
Thanks for any insight you might have on this issue.
Have you tried connect to a different setup of speakers or use a different audio cable? It sounds like you are having a problem with poor shielding on the audio cable connected to the back of the desktop dock.
I have the same problem, and I'm using the ear buds at work. I'm highly disapointed with the quality of audio coming from this device. I waited all this time and I get static!
same static with my dock
try samsung support.
their products, their problem...
its obviously a hardware design flaw, where the internal wiring/ components are picking up interferance, from itself or the phone.
WARNING SIGHTLY EDUCATIONAL: i dont have a dock but i cant set my phone within 1.5 feet of my alarm otherwize the alarm will "chirp" every few minutes. This is due to the alarm having a transistor radio and capasitors inside, the radio picks up the waves from the phone, and that energy builds up in the capasitors until it reaches max capasity then discharges to the speaker, chirpping.
chances are that they built the guts of the dock too small and compact, probably running the 3.7V power wires right along the auido wires which use less than a Volt, millivolts actually, and all wires with flowing electricity create magnetic feilds, the power wire would have a much stronger feild than the audio wire and could interfere with it, because inversly, magnetic feilds can create electricity in other wires (known as induction).
or it could be a culmination of the two factors.
back to topic, If it is the phone causing interference with the dock, it should have been built to be sheilded, if its the internal components of the dock it should have been designed different, EITHER way it would be samsungs fault or cheap overseas labour. I would gladly pay an extra (5-10%) on an item if it were made in North America (Can/US). Not mexico they take enough of our manufacturing jobs down there and might as well be overseas labour for quality and price.
if you dont care about the warranty pop it open and take some pictures for us, might be able to see/ possibly fix the problem.
At the time I tried with two different auxilery input cables, one well shielded for car audio and the other for a logitech speaker set; they both produced static. However, after restarting the phone it has yet to produce static. This phone and it's accessories are temperamental.
Ground loop
You have a ground loop, You need one of these.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127SNI...e-Filter.html?tp=2653&tab=review&rvm=ShowAllt
that is actually EXACTLY whats needed to filter out the interferance! nice i never saw a headphone one before...
Can anyone confirm that this device (noise filter) in the link solves the problem?
Anyone know of any other solutions, other than returning the dock? Shame because it is a great idea and is nice when it is working properly.
knaufism said:
same static with my dock
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I just imported one of these docks, and the static on it really sucks, totally disapointed.
I haven't experienced static on mine due to the fact that I haven't gotten the headphone jack to even work in any capacity (media or calls). Has anyone had this problem at all?
I just picked up one and had the same issue. First few hours it worked great then all the sudden the volume went low and static started. 2 different power cords and 3 sets of headphones/audio cables later and still there.
Can anyone recommend a good 3.5mm Bluetooth adapter for my car.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
I got the scosche by adapter from walmart for $36. It plugs into the 3.5mm jack and works well for audio streaming. Calls not so much.
Dicho por el E4GT de Latinmaxima con Tapatalk.
All bluetooth adapters suck. I've tried 10+ different A2DP capable adapters over the course of 2 years and all simply ruin the high frequencies. Nothing beats hardwired Aux cable if you actually care about sound quality...
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
pojieps said:
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
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Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
chrisnosleep said:
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
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I actually own it... I get WAY better quality over the bluetooth connection than I do with a direct line in. The headphone jack on your phone is designed for just that... headphones. Lining in directly reflects this. Wish there was a way for you to give it a try. I am kind of a sound snob, and I love mine. Plus, all you have to do is get in the car and once the bluetooth pairing happens, the app will open your music app and start playing.
Not trying to push this thing on ya. Just wanted you to know, I own one, and I am not "without knowledge"
Motorola Rokr T505 is small, does well with calls and music playing through blank FM stations to your car stereo. Best $40 investments plus NO CHORDS!
I had this one and used it with my EVO. Worked pretty well.
http://www.amazon.com/Miccus-BluBridge-Mini-Jack-Bluetooth-Bluetooth-Enabled/dp/B0038MA11U
I tried an AUX cable on three different phones. There was always a high pitched whine through my speakers. I started using a Samsung HM3500 plugged into the same AUX jack and got better quality music with no whine. Plus, no extra cable running through my car to the dash mount.
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
You could get an FM modulator that would allow you to add a line in via your radio antenna, but they don't have great sound quality.
DutchDogg54 said:
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
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Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
nerys71 said:
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
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Not all the time. My car had that problem and there were many other factors at fault.
Here are few things to look out for:
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded. If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit. Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
I had crappy stock headunit and weaka$$ stock amp that would always make the static and constant whine problems. Ended up completely redoing the car audio system. Now, even with the headunit not grounded audio quality is PERFECT.
Here are the prices for my audio remodeling, all items bought brand new:
- Sony MEX-BT3900U. Headunit with CD, Aux, Handsfree Phone, Bluetooth A2DP audio, USB ($140)
- Hifonics ZXi80.4. Amplifier with 4 channels, 80W RMS per channel ($134)
- Alpine SPS-600 speakers. 6.5" 2-way speakers, 80W RMS ($50 ea)
- Stinger Pro 3 Series Snake. 6-channel, 20 feet RCA snake that goes from headunit to the amp in the rear ($35)
- 2x22' 8AWG battery-to-amp power wire
- 2x18' 12AWG amp-to-headunit power wire
- 4x18' 16AWG amp-to-front speaker wires
- 4x2' 16AWG amp-to-rear speaker wires
- 30A fuse in the engine bay
I ran the power cables on the left side of the car and ran the RCA snake on the right. everything was exactly $525 and I did all work myself (it's quite easy if you ask). now the sound quality in my used-to-be-audio-hell car is dam near perfect now and has absolutely no noise/static at all. you can jack the volume up crazy high without any distortions for like 80Hz+. 80Hz and below can be a problem when maxing out the volume as the speakers are only 6.5" and weren't meant to deliver bass. don't get me wrong, they do make nice bass but just don't handle it too well when playing it very loud.
after years of running this setup I'd say this was one of the best investments i've ever made. my car is built for drifting so it is setup very stiff and shakes/jumps like crazy when dailying (300mi/week) and when i do take it out for a spin the amount of stress it sees it crazy. after all this time you'd think at least some wires would come loose but nope, everything is still running perfect.
so yeah, if you actually care about sound quality in your car and would like it to last, just redo it from scratch. it's fun and is totally worth it
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Which is a power issue
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded.
Which is a power issue
If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
Which is a power issue
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit.
Which is a power issue
Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
Which is a power issue
See what I mean?
Cars make a lot of "NOISE" this noise is a power issue. it comes from your alternator and your coil and your spark plugs IE "POWER ISSUES"
if you have bad grounds or are lacking noise suppression (cheap equipment old equipment etc.. etc..) or an older car making a TON of extra noise etc.. etc..
Power inverters (especially cheap ones) are notorious for "dirty power" that lets in noise.
when I power my phone off the USB on the cheap inverter's USB port I get big time whine noises painful even.
use the USB port in the radio and I get no noise (but then it tries to "READ" the phone instead of just charging it and won't let me use aux hehe
Sometimes you can get a coil thing to add to power to reduce this noise but usually its just cheap equipment ($7 power inverter
plug a 110v to usb adapter into same inverter and no noise. The 110v adapter isolates and prevents the noise leakage.
nerys71 said:
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
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haha time to clear up a misunderstanding here. my reply was referring to the "unplug your phone and it should go away" statement and thus assuming that you, by saying "its a power issue", were referring only to the inverter that was powering the phone at times getting a better quality inverter (aka, one that has capacitor or capacitor-pack to smooth out the voltage spikes and noise) is sufficient and at times it is not. I've experienced both. it's also worth mentioning that after redoing my sound system even the crappiest of crap inverters works just fine
frifox said:
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
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Click to collapse
Yeah, I've looked into those kind of replacements...plenty out there for reasonable prices but they would completely mar the aesthetic value of the nice interior of my Bonny. That's why I was saying that only the touchscreens that would fill the whole double (might be 1.5) din stereo spot in my car would do.
Thanks, both of you guys, for your responses...guess I'm stuck waiting till I get a much newer car
I'm not saying that you're wrong about it being a power issue, but the BT headset I mentioned came with an adapter for an AUX jack and that solved my problem. So, either solution works.
the issue is the radio is connected to the same "power source" that your "phone" is now connected to.
so if any component in that chain does not control the power noise (that is what the noise is coming from your power system)
you INJECT that noise into your audio stream the moment you "link" the devices together (power not audio)
this is why if you use a seperate battery pack to charge the phone you will not get this noise. your battery pack is "isolated" from the car's power system literally physically.
I am only talking about the typical whine pop crackle high pitched noise you get the moment you plug in your charger. IE clear no noise plug in chargers Head burster sounds start coming out of your speakers
that noise is a "power issue" you can't eliminate the power issues (except by eliminating your alternator??) but you can filter it. some devices (chargers) do this better than others
the BT unit works because you "broke" the chain. (no audio cable going from the PHONE to the RADIO)
Again, I'm not denying what you're saying. You're absolutely correct. However, OP was asking for the best BT unit to plug into the jack, not how to solve the issues with cables and power sources. I was simply providing my opinion and experience along the lines of what he was asking for.
This is not something new and have been shown many times in YouTube. It is interesting to have for any phone with 3.5mm audio jack that can be easily done within a few minutes. I do not use my headset with my phone so this would be a nice hack to have around to listen with your friends on some local radio without consuming your data plan and phone battery.
Find a headset that you do not need. We only want the part with the 3.5mm audio jack. Just trim it down to about 20cm in length and fold it in half and tie a knot at the end. I tied a lasso knot at the end just so I can adjust the length of the receiver later on though it may not help much in reception quality.
Tested several length from 1 meter all the way to 20 centimetres and found not much difference in reception quality for a fact that you will be using your loudspeaker to listen to the FM radio. The same with whether to loop or not to loop the receiver but looping the receiver gives it a cleaner look while maintaining the same reception frequency.
Putting your phone too close to a human body greatly interferes with the FM signal. On the other hand, placing your phone on a metal table may enhance the FM reception.
Perhaps those who have knowledge in electronics can shed some light to optimize this simple hack further.
Have fun...
I didn't know. Works like a charm !! Thank You
Doesn't work for me. When I plug in the trimmed headset cable with the ear pieces cut off, the FM App keeps asking me to plug in a headset. Works OK when I plug in an untrimmed headset and switch to speaker in FM App menu.
Is there a further trick to getting this to work? Are you using the stock FM App?
I had the same problem myself, and it stems from the fact that smartphones will interrogate any headset you plug in to check if it is suitable. There are basic stereo headphones with three contacts on the jack plug (from the tip they are left, right and ground) and should work on any phone regardless. But there are two variants of headset (i.e. those with a microphone) that use four contacts, the difference being whether they connect the mic on the third or fourth contact.
As of 2016 most manufacturers have standardised on one system (left, right, mic then ground), but there are enough older phones and matching headsets out there that use the alternative pinout scheme. For example my old Sony Xperia used L-R-G-M (the same as say Blackberry), necessitating the use of an adapter for certain accessories. My latest Z5 however, has moved to the L-R-M-G pattern, which means I can no longer use my favourite old Sony headset anymore, not even as plain headphones, the Z5 just refused to talk to them.
That explains why a dumb wire might not work with a smartphone, because it is looking for a signal loop on all four (or three) contacts to try and figure out what's been plugged into it. The solution is to short out the wires to fool the phone into thinking there actually is something on the other end. Simply bare all of the wires at the cut end of the cable, burn off the fine lacquer or cotton that is used as an insulation, then twist the wires together to short them all to the ground. Better still, solder them together and cover with a bit of heat-shrink for a proper finish.
Found some pre-made antennas in ebay, you can try searching for 3.5mm antenna. They look pretty decent. I am also looking for compatible antenna, if any, that is compatible for steven303's new headphone jack.
Edit: did some research and found that the 3.5mm steven303 mentioned is called '3.5mm 4 conductor' or 'TRRS antenna 3.5mm', you can try searching for them in ebay or look for similar ones lying around with wires long enough to be loops around to be used as antenna for new phones with the new type of head jack.
I got two item I think can be suitable for this purpose; search with the following keyword in ebay;
1. 3.5mm 1/8'' Male To Male 4-Pole 3 Ring TRRS AV Audio Extension Cable 1.2M/4Feet
2. 4-Pole 3Ring TRRS 3.5mm (1/8'') Male To Female AV Extension Cable 3FT/1M Black
I have an additional issue. I use my phone's fm radio feature with an old pair of headphones for an antenna and listen via blue tooth headphones when I'm running or just working around the house, etc. My problem is that as the phone moves around in my pocket, the movement causes the phone to think the headphones came unplugged for a second and the radio turns off. When that happens I have to take the phone out and turn the radio back on. This happens often enough that it is a pain in the neck.
A separate but related issue. With some old, non functioning headphone cables the phone doesn't think there is anything plugged into it. I am lucky in that my phone gives me the option to "Play anyway through speaker or bluetooth". So even though it thinks there isn't anything plugged into it, I do, and I have good FM reception.
Here is what I want: I want to know what to do to my old headphone wire so that my phone doesn't think there is anything plugged into it when it is, in fact, plugged in. I hope that makes sense!
Would it be possible for our phones to have a FM transmitter so we can wirelessly play music through our car without a cord/attachment? Or does our phone simply not have the software to be able to?
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
I think it's more an issue with hardware, not software.
Luckily, if you search Amazon, there are a lot of cheaper ones you can find that work pretty well. I unfortunately have a car deck that does not have the AUX input (it does allow me to plug my ipod in through the glove compartment though) so I know what you're going through.
Ummmm... Ok?
I also do not have an AUX input, but today I just installed this into my car (the itrips, etc. just didn't do the job) and I am loving it. It wasn't as smooth a install as I would have liked, but the quality is far superior to the wireless ones.
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-IS32-Modulator-Charging-Audio/dp/B004613FCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344913514&sr=8-1&keywords=is32
There are many 'Headphone jack' FM transmitters out there.. Most by Belkin, Scosche, Koss, etc will be along the same quality and roughly the same $40ish bucks. There are actually a couple Bluetooth visor-clip handsfree adapters now that have the Bluetooth music profiles and an FM transmitter built in if you dont want an extra dongle hanging out of the phone. I have a Jabra laying around that does that and it worked pretty well.. I used it before I bought a built-in speakerphone kit.
--- Umm seriously, why do I have to wait 5 minutes to edit my own post? That's just stupid.
I bought a belkin for my sister for her birthday and had to return it because the sound is terrible but then I found one at walmart for about $30 in the automotive department and it sounds as crisp as if is connected in an auxiliary jack, it also as a usb port to charge your phone and if I am not mistaken it can mount your phone giving it control, and if you have a well placed light or charging position it would be convenient, it also has slot to mount a regular sd card directly... it has a display with controls and remote control included.
world wide web dot walmart dot com /ip/Scosche-FM-Transmitter/16652629
I bought an install kit like the one posted from amazon. It puts a little ground noise in the speaker, especially if I use the charger simultaneously. It's all strapped in, inside the console, and my six foot cord comes out of a small hole in the back the cd pocket under the radio.
The right way to do it would be to power the modulator directly from the battery, not the radio fuse. And maybe even a power-line filter depending on how the modulator acts. But who has time for that?