Develop Bugs

Audio & Power in car: Electrical Noise

I've got a problem when I plug my HTC Titan into my car stereo as well as cigarette adapter.
I'm also got a kind of custom setup using the HTC Y Adapter with a 2.5mm jack and MiniUSB jack
Audio
Honda Civic Stock Stereo -> CD Changer to Aux Input Adapter -> 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapter -> 2.5mm input on HTC Y adapter.
Power
Belkin Cig. Lighter to USB Female Port (From old iPaq) -> HTC Stock Sync/Charge USB cable -> MiniUSB input on HTC Y adapter.
So, when both the power and audio are plugged in, I hear a horrible hiss on my car stereo, not to mention a sound that varies in pitch to my throttle. When I unplug the power, the audio is completely clean. To me this seems like some kind of a grounding issue - to say that the Audio and Power both have seperate grounds, and bridging the two creates a potential difference in the form of noise on my Sound. Also to note: I only hear the noise when the Y adapter is plugged into the phone. With the audio and power plugged into the Y adapter, but the Y adapter not plugged into the phone, It's perfectly clean. I'm kind of baffeled.
The only solution I can think of is to gut the Belkin Power->USB adapter, and providing it from 12VDC elsewhere. I've got a tap directly below my passenger seat where I have a big power inverter tied to my battery. I don't know if I'd hear the same sound by grabbing my power from there.
Anyone with an engineering mindset have an idea? I'm open to suggestions.

You are right, you have a problem with ground.
I have the same problem with a mp3 player. When I plug the audio + power I have noise, just audio is fine.
You may try the inverter as it would probably filter the noise you're getting from the DC power in your car.

you just nead an in car ground loop isolator used for getting rid of noise on the low level signal to amplifiers.They are just a 1:1 audio transformer
Any incar hifi shop or ebay will have plenty.

I have the same problem, with a polaris using standard headphones. I'm thinking the polaris itself has issues dealing with audio+charging

i had the same problem with an ipod charger, sent the car to the wreckers, and woot, problem solved sorry that was no help

Usually happens when the signal wires (mm adapters + input cord) aren't shielded and pick up the magnetic field from the ground resulting in the engine noise. Sometimes, making sure the signal wires are not touching the power cord and keeping them separated might help. I'm not really sure, since I'm a 100% noob too all this. Let me know what your fix is. I'm not too hip on all the car audio stuff anymore, but if you wanna put some hydraulics in your ride, then I can definitely help you out.

more likely the problem is in the phone, so ...

BTAXS motorMOUTH II - Handsfree & Streaming Audio Car Kit

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgLxM2bOtyM&feature=player_embedded#!
- Plugs directly into your vehicle's MP3/AUX input to allow handsfree phone conversations to play through your speakers
- Auto-paring makes initial set up hassle free
- One touch voice dialing with most Bluetooth cellular phones
- DSP echo cancellation ensures a crystal clear conversation even in noisy vehicles
- Includes switching audio splitter, AUX relocation cable, USB charging cable and car charger
- Support profiles: HFP and A2DP
SHIPPING LATE SEPTEMBER, PRE-ORDER NOW

scosche.com/products/sfID1/217/sfID2/219/productID/1919
This is EXACTLY what I've been waiting for. One less cable to attach to my evo

$80 is WAY too much for this. You can accomplish the same thing with a $20 BT3030 adapter, or any headphone adapter.
Here's a tip:
Grab one of these and one of these, and you'll never know the difference.

i just bought one on these and i'm liking it. Maybe it can be done cheaper but I know this works well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470939291&pf_rd_i=507846

scl23enn4m3 said:
$80 is WAY too much for this. You can accomplish the same thing with a $20 BT3030 adapter, or any headphone adapter.
Here's a tip:
Grab one of these and one of these, and you'll never know the difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does the first one allow you to stream bluetooth music to your cd player?

backdown said:
Does the first one allow you to stream bluetooth music to your cd player?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will let you stream to anything with an audio input.
EDIT: I'll have a full blown write up on this method in a few weeks hopefully. I'm waiting on a bunch of parts to come in and I'm hooking mine and my father's car up.

That doesn't look like it charges and outputs at the same time. The scosche appears to do this.
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

pinoyxpryde said:
That doesn't look like it charges and outputs at the same time. The scosche appears to do this.
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just used that as an example as how cheap you can go. Personally, I'm making a cable that does both.
If you want one that charges and plays at the same time out of the box, try this for 20 bucks:
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Jabra-BT303...uetooth_Wireless_Products&hash=item4aa3833d38
It's the Jabra BT3030. One end is the audio output (which plugs into your audio input) and the mini USB port is on the other for charging.

Looks awesome but quality of sound is probably ****...

How is bluetooth sound quality now adays. I listen to flac, which is lossless audio, so if it isn't really good - great sound quality wise I will just keep using a 3.5mm cable.

I'm not an audio expert (nor is my ear sensitive enough to pick up subtle differences), but I definitely wouldn't call bluetooth audio ****. I can't tell the difference between the bluetooth connection and wired connection. I've heard accounts saying flac sounds beautiful through bluetooth, but then again audio is something that has always been subjective.

Thanks for your opinion, i appreciate you taking the time to respond
I got a motorocker or something like that yesterday at walmart. It was like 90 bucks regularly on clearance for 60, but i got an extra good deal on it.
When i get my evo back I'll post my opinion on it. I have audiophilistic ears lol. It also fm modulates, so i know frequency is going to limited on the upper end to 16kish. But much over 16k doesn't contain much musical content depending on what you are listening to anyways.

Not that great over FM, glad i didn't pay much for it. I am sure the device you listed would sound very good though as it goes through a regular aux port instead of fm modulation. There didn't appear to be any bluetooth related noise, just fm garbage.

I bought a new Sony desk (BT2800) with Bluetooth built-in, and the quality is near flawless. It seems like I actually have less distortion than when it was physically plugged in. There was a ground short or something when I had it plugged in to charge and to the aux input ( but you only could notice if u turn the volume up with nothing playing). I don't know if that's with all cars or just my older car.

scl23enn4m3, you don't know what you are talking about. I hope people don't follow your ****ty advice.
First of all, that BT thing you linked to on ebay does not charge and stream at the same time. It has been covered in the comments section on dealextreme.
Second, I have yet to find any bluetooth reciever that I can add to my stock stereo system that will auto-pair. Auto pairing is a huge deal. If you have to screw around with the bluetooth settings on your phone every time you turn your car on, you might as well plug in the damn aux cable.
I am excited to check this product out.

so mine came in i couldnt get out of my car lol
i think im going to buy one for my home surround sound so i can stream music from laying in bed from my phone (my best tunes are always on my phone even though i have a 2tb and home server running boxee setup on my tv)
But seriously this motormouth btaxs is amazign (for you cheapskates out there stick to your long wires or jerryrigged stuff and leave this toy for those who want it all done right without soldeign and running wires all over)
Yes it charges while in use (I have mine plugged in all the time now and i have it setup so once i put my evo in my dock it auto ons my bluetooth and connects automatically to it)
call quality is good i just tested in loud car on speakerphone and no reverb and works flawless with one button touch then speak the name u want to call
love the damn thing i cant wait to go to work i use my phone all day while driving around and havign to plug in two wires everytime i get in and out was askign too much
now only need one wire and thats if my battery is dead ill add pics in a bit

spyngamerman said:
But seriously this motormouth btaxs is amazign (for you cheapskates out there stick to your long wires or jerryrigged stuff and leave this toy for those who want it all done right without soldeign and running wires all over)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Too bad my '07 Porsche 911 doesn't have a Aux/MP3 input jack.

Woo-Hoo!
Ordered mine from Hawk Electronics on Wednesday night - showed up on the front doorstep today (it helps that their warehouse is here in DFW).
This thing is amazing. Sound quality for music over BT far surpasses what I was getting via 3.5mm jack, and there's no 25% sound reduction just because you docked. In combination with my Sprint car dock, this is just exactly what I've been waiting for. Cool thing about car dock mode: it turns on BT, GPS, and 4G when you dock. It paired without issue, and it fires up the second I dock it in the car.
I used the extension thingy for the microphone, because my AUX port is over on the passenger side in my Element.
Road trip tomorrow.

Here'sa pic comes with charging cable too with car adapter
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App

This device looks nice but too bad my aux input is in the glove compartment...

Car dock

Well, I got the Samsung dock, and as much as I like the E4GT, the dock is terrible. Here's my experience:
1. There's a ton of line noise when the phone is docked but nothing is playing, just like with the Epic. I'm using the OEM charger, but that's not the problem--using the same charger, the Photon's car dock is absolutely silent. Samsung must be using some cheap electronics in this thing, and it's simply horrible. (Sorry for venting, but seriously...)
2. The software isn't nearly as seamless as the Photon's either. First, on the Photon, when you dock an app starts that essentially takes over the home button. That means you can move back and forth between the app and the home screens easily. On the Samsung, it seems like once you leave the Vlingo app to, say start a radio streaming app, you can't get back to the dock mode. At least, not without unplugging/replugging the dock connector, but that's extra wear and tear. If I'm wrong about this, please let me know.
Then, the Photon app allows for 4 custom apps to be assigned. That provides a great deal of flexibility, and again it's easy to go from one app to another and then back to dock mode.
Overall, the Samsung car dock experience is nowhere near the Photon's. Motorola really did a great job with this, and Samsung makes it look like they gave actually using the phone in the car zero thought.
What's everyone else doing to make this experience more usable? I'm still choosing between the Photon and the E4GT, and the car dock definitely is a mark in the Photon's favor.

1) Use bluetooth audio streaming for zero noise. Are you connected by the dock's audio out jack, or the GS2's headphone jack? I noticed better sound with the latter, but using BT is easier and sounds so much better.
2) Ditch Vlingo for CarHome Ultra. Extremely customizable and lots of great features, including up to 18 app shortcuts and auto-switching day/night themes. I love it.

You could make a profile in tasker that recognizes when the phone is plugged into a dock. Or you can make one for when it is rotated in landscape and plugged in. Then, you can enable an app to run, or have a list of apps that you can choose from. This is what I do with my phone and I don't even have a dock. It's awesome how much you can do with tasker!

fonseca898 said:
1) Use bluetooth audio streaming for zero noise. Are you connected by the dock's audio out jack, or the GS2's headphone jack? I noticed better sound with the latter, but using BT is easier and sounds so much better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd love to do that, unfortunately my car doesn't have Bluetooth audio. And I'm going from the dock's audio out to my car's AUX in. That's an idea, using the headphone jack, but I hate adding wear and tear.
2) Ditch Vlingo for CarHome Ultra. Extremely customizable and lots of great features, including up to 18 app shortcuts and auto-switching day/night themes. I love it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great, I'll give that a try, thanks!

Sholland91 said:
You could make a profile in tasker that recognizes when the phone is plugged into a dock. Or you can make one for when it is rotated in landscape and plugged in. Then, you can enable an app to run, or have a list of apps that you can choose from. This is what I do with my phone and I don't even have a dock. It's awesome how much you can do with tasker!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's another idea. Thanks!

fonseca898 said:
2) Ditch Vlingo for CarHome Ultra. Extremely customizable and lots of great features, including up to 18 app shortcuts and auto-switching day/night themes. I love it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks again for the tip, that app rocks. In fact, it's better than the Photon's car dock app.
Now all I need to do is find some way to clean up the line noise and I'll be a happy camper.

Go to radioshack. Ask them for a ferrite core. Should be a ring of "ferrite" or iron. Make sure it's big enough to put the plug on your audio cable through. Push it through and wrap it around a few times and see if that helps. Also, running a separate hot lead and ground from your car battery to the cigarette plug you use should help. But the ferrite core should be easier/cheaper
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA App

iamtheug said:
Go to radioshack. Ask them for a ferrite core. Should be a ring of "ferrite" or iron. Make sure it's big enough to put the plug on your audio cable through. Push it through and wrap it around a few times and see if that helps. Also, running a separate hot lead and ground from your car battery to the cigarette plug you use should help. But the ferrite core should be easier/cheaper
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll give it a shot, thanks! I might even have one sitting around somewhere...

call audio routing
Has anyone else been able to get call audio to route to the output on the dock? media audio comes out the port so I can hear that on my cars speakers but when I make a call it comes out of the phone speaker....

So, I've tried a variety of power adapters, USB cables, and audio cables, and the line noise remains. I'm going to try the ferrite core around the audio cable, but I don't think that's the issue--if you unplug the unit from power, the line noise disappears. So, I think it's just bad circuitry in the dock.
One would think that Samsung would have received complaints about this with the Epic dock (at least) and would have fixed it. Motorola managed to make a dock with excellent sound quality and zero noise, so it's certainly possible.
Otherwise, the E4GT is decent in the car with that Carhome Ultra app. Although, that doesn't really help with my decision between the E4GT and Photon, because with the Photon I could have the same dock app but also outstanding audio quality.

I can only assume the noise you are hearing is due to a Ground Loop/Hum.
It has to do with the fact that your power source is grounded to a different point than the stereo/speakers. the hum you hear is the difference in voltage's between the 2 grounds being represented as noise in the line.
for instance. I recently installed a new head unit in my truck, the unit has an AUX in and a USB port. If i plug my E4GT aux cable into the stereo and plug the USB charger into the port on the stereo - NO Noise. However, if i plug the phone to charge in another outlet (say, the cig lighter) then there is Line Noise everytime. The same principle applies when plugging your phone audio jack into any electronics.
Hope this helps shed a little light on the noize.

ReFiLL said:
I can only assume the noise you are hearing is due to a Ground Loop/Hum.
It has to do with the fact that your power source is grounded to a different point than the stereo/speakers. the hum you hear is the difference in voltage's between the 2 grounds being represented as noise in the line.
for instance. I recently installed a new head unit in my truck, the unit has an AUX in and a USB port. If i plug my E4GT aux cable into the stereo and plug the USB charger into the port on the stereo - NO Noise. However, if i plug the phone to charge in another outlet (say, the cig lighter) then there is Line Noise everytime. The same principle applies when plugging your phone audio jack into any electronics.
Hope this helps shed a little light on the noize.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hear you, except that I have two different docks that display entirely different behavior. Actually, I have two docks from the same manufacturer (Samsung, for the Epic and the Epic Touch) that have significant line noise, and one (Motorola) that does not. Note that these are all plugged into exactly the same power adapter and outlet and using the same USB and audio cables.
So, you'd need to account for the fact that the Motorola signal is perfectly clean in precisely the same circumstances while the Samsung's signal isn't.

I believe every word of it.
From what I know about Ground Loop Hum there are many weak links in the chain, and certainly some products behave better than others. The problem is still most likely the Ground.
One possibility would be that the manufacturer of the Moto Dock has included an isolator in the power supply line (or even in the audio supply line), and the manufacturer for the Sammys didnt.
My experience in this subject is with my Laptop/DJ setup making noise when plugged into audio equipment. when the power supply was plugged into the lappy, 60hz hum. Unplug it and it goes away. More than likely the problem was inside the computer or the power supply was just poorly manufactured as other models may not have the Hum. In my case i purchased a small isolater solved the problem. It may be possible to find one for a 12v car electrical system.

ReFiLL said:
I believe every word of it.
From what I know about Ground Loop Hum there are many weak links in the chain, and certainly some products behave better than others. The problem is still most likely the Ground.
One possibility would be that the manufacturer of the Moto Dock has included an isolator in the power supply line (or even in the audio supply line), and the manufacturer for the Sammys didnt.
My experience in this subject is with my Laptop/DJ setup making noise when plugged into audio equipment. when the power supply was plugged into the lappy, 60hz hum. Unplug it and it goes away. More than likely the problem was inside the computer or the power supply was just poorly manufactured as other models may not have the Hum. In my case i purchased a small isolater solved the problem. It may be possible to find one for a 12v car electrical system.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually hooked up an old RadioShack groundloop isolator to the AUX cable, and it got rid of the hum.
Something like this should work fine: http://www.amazon.com/GROUND-LOOP-I...QTRI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1322958491&sr=8-2

ReFiLL said:
I believe every word of it.
From what I know about Ground Loop Hum there are many weak links in the chain, and certainly some products behave better than others. The problem is still most likely the Ground.
One possibility would be that the manufacturer of the Moto Dock has included an isolator in the power supply line (or even in the audio supply line), and the manufacturer for the Sammys didnt.
My experience in this subject is with my Laptop/DJ setup making noise when plugged into audio equipment. when the power supply was plugged into the lappy, 60hz hum. Unplug it and it goes away. More than likely the problem was inside the computer or the power supply was just poorly manufactured as other models may not have the Hum. In my case i purchased a small isolater solved the problem. It may be possible to find one for a 12v car electrical system.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, the salient point is that Samsung uses inferior components. It's possible to make a device that doesn't suffer from the problem, as Motorola has shown.

DevalB said:
I actually hooked up an old RadioShack groundloop isolator to the AUX cable, and it got rid of the hum.
Something like this should work fine: http://www.amazon.com/GROUND-LOOP-I...QTRI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1322958491&sr=8-2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I'll give that a try.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

most times I've had line noise, be it from improper grounding or from cellular interference (namely from ground issues) the ferrite core fixed it. If it doesn't, the power isolation will. The reason the USB Ports on the head unit doesn't create line noiseis because it has isolation circuitry built in. The core is cheap. If that doesn't work, isolate power.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA App

Okay, in the latest saga with the Samsung car dock, I noticed this morning that when I received a Bluetooth phone call, the TuneIn Radio audio I was playing didn't stop. Or, rather, it did stop once the stream buffer ran out, because I was on 3G and of course 3G data isn't available during calls.
Is this really how the Samsung dock works, that audio doesn't give way to Bluetooth calls? Or is that perhaps the CarHome Ultra app?
Still a bit frustrated with this aspect of the Epic Touch. The Photon's car dock works perfectly, including muting audio while on a Bluetooth call.
Grrr. I know, I know, if I like the Photon's car dock so much, why I don't I just stick with that phone... But seriously, Samsung, how hard is it to get this right?

wynand32 said:
Okay, in the latest saga with the Samsung car dock, I noticed this morning that when I received a Bluetooth phone call, the TuneIn Radio audio I was playing didn't stop. Or, rather, it did stop once the stream buffer ran out, because I was on 3G and of course 3G data isn't available during calls.
Is this really how the Samsung dock works, that audio doesn't give way to Bluetooth calls? Or is that perhaps the CarHome Ultra app?
Still a bit frustrated with this aspect of the Epic Touch. The Photon's car dock works perfectly, including muting audio while on a Bluetooth call.
Grrr. I know, I know, if I like the Photon's car dock so much, why I don't I just stick with that phone... But seriously, Samsung, how hard is it to get this right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wonder if it might be the phone or the application. When listening to Sirius/XM radio without a dock, and I get a phone call, the radio keeps blasting away.

You don't stick with that phone because this one is superior in every other way. Its a minor issue. Why would you even have the aux input selected when there is no music playing? I have the noise too so I get it but ...yeah I just change the input when I don't need it.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA App

Auxiliary Output Issues

I connect my LG G4 to the auxiliary jack in my car stereo (stock stereo in a 2007 Saab 9-3) with a standard 3.5 mm male to male audio cable. The process to get the audio to come through my speakers is rather cumbersome.
I have to follow this procedure:
1. Unplug the audio cable from the aux jack in the car stereo
2. Plug other end of the audio cable into the phone
3. Open Google Music and press play on the music I want to listen to
4. Plug audio cable back into the aux jack on stereo
5. Change stereo from Radio/band to Aux
I have to do this every single time, and if my music happens to reach the end of the album or playlist to where it is no longer playing anything, I have to repeat the above steps. When I had an HTC One M7 and M8 I didn't have to do any of this. I could just connect my phone and press play...no problems.
I really hate having to do this for two reasons. First, if while driving, I decide to listen to music on my phone rather than the radio, it really distracting and unsafe to mess with while driving. Second, I'm afraid with all the plugging/unplugging on my car stereo is going to wear out the aux jack and degrade the audio quality.
Anyone else having this issue with their G4? Any suggestions? I know someone with a G3 and they don't have any issues like this when plugging into their car stereo, although they have a different car, but I don't think it would really matter.

Kevin82485 said:
I connect my LG G4 to the auxiliary jack in my car stereo (stock stereo in a 2007 Saab 9-3) with a standard 3.5 mm male to male audio cable. The process to get the audio to come through my speakers is rather cumbersome.
I have to follow this procedure:
1. Unplug the audio cable from the aux jack in the car stereo
2. Plug other end of the audio cable into the phone
3. Open Google Music and press play on the music I want to listen to
4. Plug audio cable back into the aux jack on stereo
5. Change stereo from Radio/band to Aux
I have to do this every single time, and if my music happens to reach the end of the album or playlist to where it is no longer playing anything, I have to repeat the above steps. When I had an HTC One M7 and M8 I didn't have to do any of this. I could just connect my phone and press play...no problems.
I really hate having to do this for two reasons. First, if while driving, I decide to listen to music on my phone rather than the radio, it really distracting and unsafe to mess with while driving. Second, I'm afraid with all the plugging/unplugging on my car stereo is going to wear out the aux jack and degrade the audio quality.
Anyone else having this issue with their G4? Any suggestions? I know someone with a G3 and they don't have any issues like this when plugging into their car stereo, although they have a different car, but I don't think it would really matter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do car electronics install for a living... I'm not familiar with how Saab does aux (I don't see many saabs), but in most vehicles there is a 'sense' wire in the aux plug. You will know if it has one because without a cable plugged in, you won't be able to select the aux source. In your case, the residual connection from your phone's fm radio (uses headphone cable as antenna) might be interfering with the 'sense' wire in the aux plug. I would suggest trying a different aux cable, like one with 4 bands instead of 3. They are typically used to carry audio as well as video. If that doesn't work, amazon has these universal Bluetooth receivers that plug into the aux port, which for sure will do what you need it to.
Example of 4 band cable-
http://www.amazon.com/Screen-Screen-3-5mm-Philips-Player/dp/B00D3SXPGC
The Bluetooth reciever would be my choice though-
http://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Integrated-multi-point-technology/dp/B008AGQMQC

esmenikmatixx said:
I do car electronics install for a living... I'm not familiar with how Saab does aux (I don't see many saabs), but in most vehicles there is a 'sense' wire in the aux plug. You will know if it has one because without a cable plugged in, you won't be able to select the aux source. In your case, the residual connection from your phone's fm radio (uses headphone cable as antenna) might be interfering with the 'sense' wire in the aux plug. I would suggest trying a different aux cable, like one with 4 bands instead of 3. They are typically used to carry audio as well as video. If that doesn't work, amazon has these universal Bluetooth receivers that plug into the aux port, which for sure will do what you need it to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The stereo in the model year range of my Saab is basically the same that GM put in Pontiacs and other makes in the 2007 year range. GM owned Saab at the time. I know someone with a Ponitac G6 (I think that is model, it is definitely a Pontiac) and I remember remarking that he had the same stereo as me. The buttons and interface look nearly identical. If I have the aux cable plugged into the stereo I can select the Aux source, even if I don't have anything else connected. If no cable is plugged into the stereo, I cannot select the Aux source.
What I don't understand is why it worked fine with no weird issues with the HTC One M8, but it doesn't work with the G4. Sounds like a software bug to me.
As far as I know Verizon disables the FM receiver in the G4 just like they did in the HTC One M8 and basically all of their phones. It's still in physically in the phone, so maybe it can still interfere in some way, but if it worked on the M8 I don't understand why the G4 is different in this respect.
I'll try a different cable and/or a 4 band cable though and see if it makes a difference.

I used my G4 in my car (2009 RAV4) without issues. I didn't do anything special, just plugged it in then started playing the podcast app. I don't recall if the sequence mattered at all. I typically plug the cable into the phone first, then start playing the audio.
I believe I have a "sense wire" that esmenikmatixx referred to, as I believe my car will not let me select Aux if nothing is plugged into the car. I have an audio cable that I always leave plugged into the car's port, to reduce wear on the jack.
I didn't try the music app in the car, unfortunately. FWIW, Google Music was fine for me with headphones, no weird issues. I have Verizon, but I have since returned my G4, so I can't check anything else for you, sorry.

So I decided to get a bluetooth adapter that plugs into the Aux input on my car stereo and it works great with the exception that the audio volume is ridiculously low. I max out the bluetooth volume on my phone as well as the separate volume on the bluetooth adapter and it is really quiet. Turn up my car stereo you say, but ah, I have to turn my car stereo up to near maximum as well to get a decent volume that could be heard while driving. When I turn the car stereo volume up this loud the speakers become overrun with static and it makes it sound like I'm listening on an FM channel that barely comes in.
I've noticed lower volume over bluetooth on my LG Tone bluetooth earbuds as well. I used these the LG Tone's with my HTC One and had no problems with volume levels. The first time I connected my LG Tones to my LG G4, I had to nearly max out the volume on the Tones (despite having the LG G4 bluetooth volume maxed as well) to hear audio at the same level that I previously did on my HTC One.
So bluetooth is not going to be an answer, the quality is too poor. I dug around on the Play Store and found an app called "Soundabout". The app will allow you to force your audio out through whatever source you want even when the output device is not connected. I set it to force audio through wired headset and it works for the most part. I don't have to do any weird unplugging and re-plugging of audio cable just plug and play. The only thing is that sometimes when I connect the phone and press play on a song you can tell that Soundabout is fighting with the crap software on the phone to force the audio to the wired headset (wired speakers) because the audio will cut in and out and then stop. After pressing play enough times that it wins out, it will finally go through the wired connection. The one downside is that if I'm out of my car and want to listen to something through the speaker on the phone I have to go back into the Soundabout app and change the output to "let the app decide".
So, I'm 100% sure it is something with the software on the phone. There is little doubt. I have no problems with any other phone connected to my car stereo. It's not like I have some aftermarket stereo. This stereo is as stock and basic as you can get. When they designed the audio controls and functionality on this phone they didn't put a lot of thought into it. It's frustrating because otherwise this is a great phone I just hate messing with this stupid audio issue. All I can do is hope it's patched. There are no built-in options on the phone to tweak audio settings.
I can't imagine I'm the only one having problems like this.

LG Customer Support has been predictably unhelpful. I may just return this and get a different phone if I still can.

RedOCtobyr said:
I used my G4 in my car (2009 RAV4) without issues. I didn't do anything special, just plugged it in then started playing the podcast app.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same for me. Works fine in my 2008 Subaru. I've run everything from local mp3 files to Audible to iHeartRadio and Pandora through it without a problem. Even the Smart Settings for auto-starting Audible actually work.

Makster said:
Same for me. Works fine in my 2008 Subaru. I've run everything from local mp3 files to Audible to iHeartRadio and Pandora through it without a problem. Even the Smart Settings for auto-starting Audible actually work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I plugged it in with an audio cable to my girlfriend's Mazda and it works fine. Guess I'm S.O.L. Highly unlikely LG would patch this if it's software due to being so isolated. Would be interested to hear from those with a mid to late 2000's GM vehicle since they all have basically the same stereo as Saab. Maybe it is an issue with my stereo, but I don't understand then why other phones work just fine.
Frustrating because there is nothing I can do to fix it other than spend a bunch of money to replace my stereo which I can't afford, or spend an equal amount of a bunch of money to pay off the G4 so that I can get a different phone to then make more payments on, and Verizon absolutely, no exceptions, refuses to exchange it for something like a Galaxy, Note 4, anything different than a G4 because I'm 5 days past the 14 day return period. Guess I only have myself to kick in the ass for not doing sooner, but I wish someone at Verizon was kindhearted enough to make an exception.
Sorry for venting.

Sorry to hear about the issues. Did you try the 4 band cable idea?

RedOCtobyr said:
Sorry to hear about the issues. Did you try the 4 band cable idea?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet, but I will. I've been reading on another website that the G3, last year's model, had this exact same problem. There's a thread with tons of people reporting the same problem. Some used a cable like this one which was suggested earlier and it solved their issue. Suppose I should have tried that to begin with. I'm going to try this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K36XWG0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
I'll report back if it worked or not at least so that if others come across this they have a starting point.

I got the 4 pole to 3 pole audio cable today and it doesn't work. I tried flipping the cable around and it still didn't work. I don't know what else to try, anyone have suggestions?

Kevin 82485, late on this thread but I just purchased a 2007 Saab 9-3 and I'm having the same issues with my LG G4. I just downloaded the soundabout app you mentioned, but have you found a better solution than that?

2007 saab 9-5 and LG Aristo on Metro PCS. Same issue as OP. Its definitely a LG issue, wifes Galaxy works without issues, no fiddling with the cable and audio pausing and plugging unplugging plugging and trying to play audio. Good phone, garbage audio coding.

Noise from my brand new Dasaita PK5 whenever wifi data is flowing...

I installed this unit in wife's 2018 Highlander today. It sounds great if wifi is switched off, or if it's on and no data is flowing. I am using Network Mini to monitor data, and as soon as data is going up/down, the crackling starts.
I've reached out to Dasaita and am awaiting a reply
I have grounded the black wire with the ringlet directly to the frame but it makes no difference. I have NOT grounded the radio chassis yet. Also the noise goes away when the unit isn't crammed into the dash. When all the wires are in close proximity to radio is when it picks up
Anyone seen this issue. Love the radio otherwise...
Video:.
https://youtu.be/NhSzLh7CD_0

Wow - that's REALLY bad... I'm starting to get a little fed up with the interference noises from my Eonon MTCE-WWW unit as well. I don't have any issues when using the internal amp, but if I connect to an external amp with the line-out RCAs, I get interference from USB devices, the LED backlighting on the unit, etc. It's shame becuase I love the idea of an Android unit, but not sure I can deal with the subpar quality issues....
Going to try connecting to my amp via speaker-level outputs next and see if that helps at all.
Do you have a stock or aftermarket amp in your vehicle?

Cracks and noises for me as well with my Belsee BP3 PX5 unit.
For me too the noises seem to fade away when I turn off WiFi.
I upgraded the firmware of the unit with a Cs-x sound mod one (there's an recente one for Dasaita too) and it seem to have reduced the issue
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ent/mod-cs-x-mod-mtcd-e-mcu-firmware-t3816042
Maybe you can check this out ?

TheDiB said:
Cracks and noises for me as well with my Belsee BP3 PX5 unit.
For me too the noises seem to fade away when I turn off WiFi.
I upgraded the firmware of the unit with a Cs-x sound mod one (there's an recente one for Dasaita too) and it seem to have reduced the issue
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ent/mod-cs-x-mod-mtcd-e-mcu-firmware-t3816042
Maybe you can check this out ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose I could try updates, but I don't hold out much hope given that the problem seems to be related to proximity to the wifi antenna. It did this on the stock rom, as well as the Hal9k variant.
I'll update this thread if I manage to find an improvement.

The alternate sound-patched MCU's didn't make any difference whatsoever on my Eonon MTCE-WWW unit. I tried both the cs-x version and the wazdio verion. Same noise-related issues. You may help "hide" them a little by turning down the pre-amp value, but you can also do that with the stock MCUs, under the Factory Settings "Voice" tab.
To put it simply, I think they just use low-quality components with limited R&D - which is why these units are so inexpensive compared to more premium brands of plug-and-play units like Rosen, Dynavin, etc (they run WinCE though).
If using speaker-level outputs on the Eonon doesn't help in my case, I'll probably be going back to a WInCE unit, just becuase they seem to have much higher-quality audio components (better DAC's, 4V pre-outs, BBE processor, real 9-band EQ, time-delay, etc). I was really looking forward to an Android head-unit, but I'm just not willing to sacrifice sound quality to get the Android interface. Viper4Android helps a LOT in terms of sound-quality, but it can't help with the noise-related issues, which are more of a hardware thing...
Maybe some day they'll get there. I really wish they made low- and high-end versions of these radios - that way people had a choice between low-cost and high-quality.

That's a shame, as there is so much potential. I have a Hizpo PK5 in my (JBL-equipped) Sequoia, and it's completely noise-free. But this Dasaita for the Highlander is just very loud. It seems like it's a shielding issue. As stated previously, if I keep the head unit out with all the cables extended, the sound stops. I'm halfway tempted to buy an SMA wifi antenna with a cable long enough to get the RF signal away from the wires. The sound is exclusive to the left channel (both front and rear).
@TheDiB, missed your prior question. It's a JBL-equipped vehicle.

Yeah, your particular noise is REALLY bad (mine is more of something that you only hear if the music is muted or during really quiet parts of the music - and only in certain cases (but it still bothers me knowing that it's there).
Being that you can stop the noise by pulling the radio out, you may be able to figure out what is causing it. Maybe try disconnecting the AM/FM antenna to see if that has anytihng to do with it - I've read some cases where hte antenna was causing interference. Or just re-routing some of the wiring - or something along those lines.
In my case, the noises are present no matter what - but only if I use the RCA line-level outputs and an extrnal amp. If I use the stock built-in amp, there is no noise whatsoever. So mine seems to be related to the RCA line-level output hardware (shielding related, I'm guessing).
I would experiment some more if you are happy with the radio and sound-quality otherwise.

I'm hoping I hear something helpful back from Dasaita in the coming days. On this particular unit, the wifi antenna comes out about 1/2" above the main ISO plug for the radio. I suppose I could relocate the antenna by running the existing bulkhead SMA fitting through a screw hole elsewhere on the case to provide more distance. I'm not giving up yet The other issue is that it's the wife's car, so my access to it is limited.
I'm not using line-level outputs. The four pairs for the speaker output comes out of that ISO plug, and goes straight to the Toyota harness. Fader control (as well as a bunch of other controls/data) goes through the can bus adapter. But ultimately, those four speaker pair end up at the factory JBL amplifier.
Aside from the noise, the audio quality is equivalent to the stock radio. But, I'm not an audiophile, and I have the opposite of OCD...

So your stock JBL amp actually accepts speaker-level inputs? Usually, amps take line-level inputs. With the Eonon MTCE-WWW units for GM's, if your car has a stock Bose amp, there is a special "Bose adpater" that connects to the same port where you would connect the line-level RCA jacks for aftermarket amps, which is line-level - but instead of having RCA jacks at the other end, it just connects into the main wiring harness, so I guess it sends line-level signals through the speaker wires, to the Bose amp - and then the Bose amp amplifies them (that is just a guess though, based on the fact that the audio is coming from the same port that is used for an external aftermarket amp, which is line-level).
So the wiring harness you use for yours is exactly the same regardless of whether the car has a stock amplifier or not? Or maybe it's not an option on your car and they ALL come with JBL amps? Just trying to understand your setup a little better. Do you have a link to the unit you purcahsed?

jtrosky said:
So your stock JBL amp actually accepts speaker-level inputs? Usually, amps take line-level inputs. With the Eonon MTCE-WWW units for GM's, if your car has a stock Bose amp, there is a special "Bose adpater" that connects to the same port where you would connect the line-level RCA jacks for aftermarket amps, which is line-level - but instead of having RCA jacks at the other end, it just connects into the main wiring harness, so I guess it sends line-level signals through the speaker wires, to the Bose amp - and then the Bose amp amplifies them (that is just a guess though, based on the fact that the audio is coming from the same port that is used for an external aftermarket amp, which is line-level).
So the wiring harness you use for yours is exactly the same regardless of whether the car has a stock amplifier or not? Or maybe it's not an option on your car and they ALL come with JBL amps? Just trying to understand your setup a little better. Do you have a link to the unit you purcahsed?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It must, because I'm not using any coax/low-level outputs. In fact, I haven't hooked up most of the pigtail connectors. The ISO harness has about 5 or 6 connectors that are used, and about as many that aren't (presumably for the non-JBL vehicles). I think the Toyota JBL set up is much like the Bose you described. In a previous Tundra, I had to buy an adapter that would convert the two-pair per speaker wires to RCA plugs which I could then use to connect my aftermarket radio (to use the low level outputs). That converter (made by Metra or Scoche, IIRC) also somehow tied into the canbus to power the amp and control the fader.
Ultimately with this PX5, I'm using the purple/green/gray/white speaker level outputs to go directly to the factory harness. No adapter in between. I can only assume the JBL amp is designed to accept this somehow. Both my Sequoia and now this Highlander are set up the same way.

Well, I am happy to report that I was able to resolve the noise by replacing the Dasaita wifi antenna with a full-sized SMA-equipped antenna from an old Asus router. The antenna was a female SMA, so I had to slip a small copper conductor into it so it would interface with the female SMA bulkhead on the radio - but once I did that, ALL the noise disappeared! So either something is wrong with the antenna they provided, or it's simply dumping too much RF right on top of the ISO connector with all the speaker outputs. Whew!

Very cool! Glad to hear that you got it resolved. So is the antenna now further away from the ISO connector - or is it just becuase it's a different antenna? You may to get an adapter or an antenna with the right connecter for long-term use (instead of using the wrong gender anteanna with a piece of copper wire installed).
Regardless, glad to hear that you figure it out! I wish my noise-related issues were so easy to solve.
Although, I did some brief testing this morning and it seems that using the speaker-level outputs is better than using the line-level outputs on mine (for connecting external amp). The noises are still there, but they aren't as loud when using speaker-level outputs for my external amp (usually, it's the other way around with higher-quality head-units).
These units are so close to being really good - it's a shame they have these noise-relasted issues...

jtrosky said:
Very cool! Glad to hear that you got it resolved. So is the antenna now further away from the ISO connector - or is it just becuase it's a different antenna? You may to get an adapter or an antenna with the right connecter for long-term use (instead of using the wrong gender anteanna with a piece of copper wire installed).
Regardless, glad to hear that you figure it out! I wish my noise-related issues were so easy to solve.
Although, I did some brief testing this morning and it seems that using the speaker-level outputs is better than using the line-level outputs on mine (for connecting external amp). The noises are still there, but they aren't as loud when using speaker-level outputs for my external amp (usually, it's the other way around with higher-quality head-units).
These units are so close to being really good - it's a shame they have these noise-relasted issues...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't move the bulkhead SMA fitting. I would have had to break the factory seal, and I didn't want to jeopardize warranty just yet. The antenna I added is about 4x longer than the stubby they provided, so I suppose it is spreading the RF over a larger area. It has a hinge on it and if I aim it straight back the noise is still present. Bending it 90° away from the harness makes it totally silent - and there is no depreciation in the signal strength.
I have ordered a gender changer and a 3" SMA extension cable from Amazon, but I probably won't install it unless the problem returns. I figure why rock the boat.
Is the noise you're experiencing related to data transmission? Does it stop if you disable the wifi? I'm wondering if wrapping the first few inches of the wiring bundle with copper tape wouldn't provide shielding against induced RF noise.

Ah - I see. Interesting - so just a different antenna resolved your issue. Like you said, I guess it's spreading out the signal enough to avoid causing the interference. I'm sure someone else will find that info very useful in the future!
My noise issues are not realted to wifi. I have interference noises in the following situations:
1. If car is not running and radio LED backlighting is on (cuases a hum through the speakers). Mainly only noticeable when no music is playing (between songs, for example) or when there are very quiet parts of the music.
2. When using my headrest monitors.
3. Anytime the system accesses USB devices. The interference is pretty noticeable when reading/writing USB thumb drives - especially if they have LEDs on them.
4. If I my Eonon USB dashcam is active, it makes a strange intference noise from the speakers. Again, really only noticeable when no music is playing, but...
None of these are huge issues in of themselves, but at the same time, it just bothers me knowing that the interference exists. I've also noticed that the overall sound quality just isn't as good as my previous WinCE-based head-units - (much more expensive units - they have 4v preouts, higher-quality DAC's, etc) - even when using an external amplifier. Never had interference noises with them, so the Android unit is really a downgrade in terms of sound-quality, which is more important to me than having Android, I guess. I was hoping that there woulnd't be much difference in sound quality when using an external amp, but there still is...
At first, I thought the Android head-unit was awesome while testng "on the bench" - until I connected it in-car and used it for a few days, then I started noticing all of the "cons" (warning chimes and turn-signal sounds are horrible, button backlighting doesn't dim with the rest of the interior lights when dimmed, screen isn't as nice or as bright as previous units, super-reflecitive screen, the noise issues mentioned above, no true dual-zone for my headrest monitors, no XM tuner, having to jump through all kind of hoops just to get music to continue playing where it left off when restarting the car, etc). When I add up all of these "cons", I'm just not sure the Android unit is worth it for me. I'll probably be going back to my WinCE head-unit very soon (Dynavin N7 or Rosen GM1010/1210). The WinCE units are not as flexible as the Android units, but the sound quality is more important to me.
I'd *gladly* pay more for a higher-quality Android head-unit, but right now, they just don't seem to exist - which is unfortunate...

jtrosky said:
Ah - I see. Interesting - so just a different antenna resolved your issue. Like you said, I guess it's spreading out the signal enough to avoid causing the interference. I'm sure someone else will find that info very useful in the future!
My noise issues are not realted to wifi. I have interference noises in the following situations:
1. If car is not running and radio LED backlighting is on (cuases a hum through the speakers). Mainly only noticeable when no music is playing (between songs, for example) or when there are very quiet parts of the music.
2. When using my headrest monitors.
3. Anytime the system accesses USB devices. The interference is pretty noticeable when reading/writing USB thumb drives - especially if they have LEDs on them.
4. If I my Eonon USB dashcam is active, it makes a strange intference noise from the speakers. Again, really only noticeable when no music is playing, but...
None of these are huge issues in of themselves, but at the same time, it just bothers me knowing that the interference exists. I've also noticed that the overall sound quality just isn't as good as my previous WinCE-based head-units - (much more expensive units - they have 4v preouts, higher-quality DAC's, etc) - even when using an external amplifier. Never had interference noises with them, so the Android unit is really a downgrade in terms of sound-quality, which is more important to me than having Android, I guess. I was hoping that there woulnd't be much difference in sound quality when using an external amp, but there still is...
At first, I thought the Android head-unit was awesome while testng "on the bench" - until I connected it in-car and used it for a few days, then I started noticing all of the "cons" (warning chimes and turn-signal sounds are horrible, button backlighting doesn't dim with the rest of the interior lights when dimmed, screen isn't as nice or as bright as previous units, super-reflecitive screen, the noise issues mentioned above, no true dual-zone for my headrest monitors, no XM tuner, having to jump through all kind of hoops just to get music to continue playing where it left off when restarting the car, etc). When I add up all of these "cons", I'm just not sure the Android unit is worth it for me. I'll probably be going back to my WinCE head-unit very soon (Dynavin N7 or Rosen GM1010/1210). The WinCE units are not as flexible as the Android units, but the sound quality is more important to me.
I'd *gladly* pay more for a higher-quality Android head-unit, but right now, they just don't seem to exist - which is unfortunate...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, have you found a solution, how you fix noise ?

jtrosky said:
Ah - I see. Interesting - so just a different antenna resolved your issue. Like you said, I guess it's spreading out the signal enough to avoid causing the interference. I'm sure someone else will find that info very useful in the future!
My noise issues are not realted to wifi. I have interference noises in the following situations:
1. If car is not running and radio LED backlighting is on (cuases a hum through the speakers). Mainly only noticeable when no music is playing (between songs, for example) or when there are very quiet parts of the music.
2. When using my headrest monitors.
3. Anytime the system accesses USB devices. The interference is pretty noticeable when reading/writing USB thumb drives - especially if they have LEDs on them.
4. If I my Eonon USB dashcam is active, it makes a strange intference noise from the speakers. Again, really only noticeable when no music is playing, but...
None of these are huge issues in of themselves, but at the same time, it just bothers me knowing that the interference exists. I've also noticed that the overall sound quality just isn't as good as my previous WinCE-based head-units - (much more expensive units - they have 4v preouts, higher-quality DAC's, etc) - even when using an external amplifier. Never had interference noises with them, so the Android unit is really a downgrade in terms of sound-quality, which is more important to me than having Android, I guess. I was hoping that there woulnd't be much difference in sound quality when using an external amp, but there still is...
At first, I thought the Android head-unit was awesome while testng "on the bench" - until I connected it in-car and used it for a few days, then I started noticing all of the "cons" (warning chimes and turn-signal sounds are horrible, button backlighting doesn't dim with the rest of the interior lights when dimmed, screen isn't as nice or as bright as previous units, super-reflecitive screen, the noise issues mentioned above, no true dual-zone for my headrest monitors, no XM tuner, having to jump through all kind of hoops just to get music to continue playing where it left off when restarting the car, etc). When I add up all of these "cons", I'm just not sure the Android unit is worth it for me. I'll probably be going back to my WinCE head-unit very soon (Dynavin N7 or Rosen GM1010/1210). The WinCE units are not as flexible as the Android units, but the sound quality is more important to me.
I'd *gladly* pay more for a higher-quality Android head-unit, but right now, they just don't seem to exist - which is unfortunate...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also wanted to hear if you found out the problem .. since I myself have the same...