HTC PDA with 3-in-1 adapter
Hi community!
I have a small problem .... I have bought this http://www.amazon.de/Original-HTC-T-Mobile-Vodafone-Smartphones/dp/B000T92QF4/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&s=ce-de&qid=1211719958&sr=8-12 adapter for my XDA Terra and everything works very well! I can listen to my music by headphones, while the PDA is charging etc
Only in my car I got problems!
I drive a Toyota Aygo (like Citron C1 or Peugeot 1001) wich has an auxiliary input on the radio! If I connect my PDA with the adapter to the aux input everything ist OK, music is played, everything normal, but once I connect electricity, through a USB car charger, I hear a very loud noise! In addition, there is still a induced noise when I accelerate ...
If I put my MD player between sound of electricity , I don't have this noise!
Can anyone help? Do you have the problem too? Can someone test this, maybe who has a radio with AuxIn? Would an other adapter help? What do you have?
I hope you can give me an answer to my questions!?
Thanks a lot!
ruebyi
P.S.: Here is my question in German http://www.ppc-welt.info/community/showthread.php?t=130394
well, not sure what to tell you, I have the exact same adaptor set up in my car, with audio going to the aux in on the radio, and a car usb charger for power, and the 3rd slot with a microphone for hands free phone use. Works just great in my Dodge pickup with stock radio. I can hear music or phone over the stereo speakers, and having the microphone hookup people hear me just fine, and the unit is charged the whole time. not sure, but have you tried switching the two usb ports, maybe whatever is causing the interference will go away if you switch to the 2nd usb port?
How to fix the problem..
Hello,
What you are experiencing is sometimes known as floaty ground-loop feedback. It will be especially noisy if you're using a DC->AC inverter.
The best solution is to do as the MD player does: isolate the circuits (by that, I mean isolate the audio-output from the power-input circuits)
I had this problem once, so I went to the local Radio Shack and picked up two of these (RS Part# 273-1374) - Audio Isolation Transformers, 1:1 winding. Simply wire it as follows (using a 3.5mm male & female plug to add it inline to the 3.5mm output from your 3-in-1 adapter):
Audio input (from the 3-in-1 3.5mm output):
L -> WHT on transformer 1
R -> WHT on transformer 2
G -> BLK on both transformers, connected together
Audio output (to the plug which you plug into the 3-in-1):
L -> RED on transformer 1
R -> RED on transformer 2
G -> YEL on both transformers, connected together
When I built one, it fit into a small 2.5x0.75x1.5 enclosure (including male and female 3.5mm stereo plugs) and it helped to solve the problem. Another solution might be to find (in your local electronics store) an inline audio filter.. They are pretty cheap, usually less than $10..
Hope this helps!
--Weasel5i2
sounds to me like your car has a bad ground. test it out in a different car.
same for me with any HTC adaptors. When i use a cheap chinese make there is no problem
I'm after an adapter to work with my WinMo device which allows me to connect up my own Mic.
The one that almost fits the bill is this ExtUSB 3-in-1 Adaptor but the problem is with the Mic!
I have my own Mic already wired in and a fair way from where the adapter is going to be located. Ideally, I just need a 3.5mm jack for the Mic to go into, just like the 3.5mm jack for the audio out.
The final result being I have a handsfree solution in the car, connected up through the car stereo speakers and a handsfree mic.
Can anyone see any issues with this setup? Does anyone know where I can obtain such an adapter?
1) I tried that adapter with my Touch PRO and it messed up somehow the audio managment so after plugging it in once - after receiving a call I could speak but the device become totally unresponsive only reset worked until a next call... so I hard reseted device and bought the HTC original one.
2) You might get a ground loop when using audio together with charging. I have had it with different cars, devices (laptops/handhelds). The ground loop will give you loud unwanted digital noise while charging. There are workarounds but might not be easy to reach. Basically you need to get the power from the SAME WIRE as the amplifier does.
I have this exact setup in my car and it does work, no feedback problems. I also have the same problem of microphone placement. I have been unable to find an adaptor or a microphone with a long enough wire to do what I wanted, so I had to modify my microphone placement(put it on the dash as oppossed to my sun visor where I wanted it). Other than that issue, it does work great, sounds great over the stereo(both phone calls and music), and charges up at the same time. If you do find either an adaptor or a stupid mini usb microphone with about a 4 foot wire, let me know.
bsell1 said:
I have this exact setup in my car and it does work, no feedback problems. I also have the same problem of microphone placement. I have been unable to find an adaptor or a microphone with a long enough wire to do what I wanted, so I had to modify my microphone placement(put it on the dash as oppossed to my sun visor where I wanted it). Other than that issue, it does work great, sounds great over the stereo(both phone calls and music), and charges up at the same time. If you do find either an adaptor or a stupid mini usb microphone with about a 4 foot wire, let me know.
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How about the charging?... Is there any change in the audio when plugging in? Try lowering the vol of device as low as possible and maximize the vol of amp.
not at all. The way I have it set up, it is charging or powered the whole time. Of the 3 inputs on the adaptor, one goes to the aux in on my car stereo, one goes to a car power adaptor I installed under the dash, and the 3rd goes to the microphone. I have bluetooth on, so it works with the gps reciever I have(I have an older model without built in gps) and I programed 1 of the buttons to turn on the gps program. Another button is programed to turn on the audio player(I think it is pocket player), which feeds audio to the car stereo anytime I have the aux button pressed on the car stereo. When a phone call comes in, the song pauses and all I have to do is hit the little green answer button on the phone to use it as a speakerphone. Audio is great. I have all the wires snake into one of those little pockets on the dash so there are not a lot of wires going everywhere. Takes about 5-10 seconds to set it up when I get in the car, and about 3 seconds to disconnect when I leave.
Can anyone recommend a good 3.5mm Bluetooth adapter for my car.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda premium
I got the scosche by adapter from walmart for $36. It plugs into the 3.5mm jack and works well for audio streaming. Calls not so much.
Dicho por el E4GT de Latinmaxima con Tapatalk.
All bluetooth adapters suck. I've tried 10+ different A2DP capable adapters over the course of 2 years and all simply ruin the high frequencies. Nothing beats hardwired Aux cable if you actually care about sound quality...
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
pojieps said:
Google "tunelink"
A little pricey, but worth it for the audio quality. Plus, it is only for streaming audio.... No speakerphone function...
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Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
chrisnosleep said:
Sorry, but this is just a gimmick for those without knowledge in my opinion. Other than the bluetooth function, which there are a million of those out there, a person could just plug a male to male 3.5mm stereo plug into the phone to the AUX port in the car if its available.
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I actually own it... I get WAY better quality over the bluetooth connection than I do with a direct line in. The headphone jack on your phone is designed for just that... headphones. Lining in directly reflects this. Wish there was a way for you to give it a try. I am kind of a sound snob, and I love mine. Plus, all you have to do is get in the car and once the bluetooth pairing happens, the app will open your music app and start playing.
Not trying to push this thing on ya. Just wanted you to know, I own one, and I am not "without knowledge"
Motorola Rokr T505 is small, does well with calls and music playing through blank FM stations to your car stereo. Best $40 investments plus NO CHORDS!
I had this one and used it with my EVO. Worked pretty well.
http://www.amazon.com/Miccus-BluBridge-Mini-Jack-Bluetooth-Bluetooth-Enabled/dp/B0038MA11U
I tried an AUX cable on three different phones. There was always a high pitched whine through my speakers. I started using a Samsung HM3500 plugged into the same AUX jack and got better quality music with no whine. Plus, no extra cable running through my car to the dash mount.
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
You could get an FM modulator that would allow you to add a line in via your radio antenna, but they don't have great sound quality.
DutchDogg54 said:
Did you guys all just have a car stereo that had bluetooth built in? I have an '05 Bonneville GXP but the stereo has neither a aux port or bluetooth capability...Major sad face...I really don't want to replace the stereo either because it's nice and fits the look of the car - would look stupid with anything other than a big touchscreen replacement and that's just too expensive.
Any suggestions?
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Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
nerys71 said:
High Pitched whine is a POWER ISSUE
unplug your phone and it should go away. IE change chargers.
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Not all the time. My car had that problem and there were many other factors at fault.
Here are few things to look out for:
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded. If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit. Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
I had crappy stock headunit and weaka$$ stock amp that would always make the static and constant whine problems. Ended up completely redoing the car audio system. Now, even with the headunit not grounded audio quality is PERFECT.
Here are the prices for my audio remodeling, all items bought brand new:
- Sony MEX-BT3900U. Headunit with CD, Aux, Handsfree Phone, Bluetooth A2DP audio, USB ($140)
- Hifonics ZXi80.4. Amplifier with 4 channels, 80W RMS per channel ($134)
- Alpine SPS-600 speakers. 6.5" 2-way speakers, 80W RMS ($50 ea)
- Stinger Pro 3 Series Snake. 6-channel, 20 feet RCA snake that goes from headunit to the amp in the rear ($35)
- 2x22' 8AWG battery-to-amp power wire
- 2x18' 12AWG amp-to-headunit power wire
- 4x18' 16AWG amp-to-front speaker wires
- 4x2' 16AWG amp-to-rear speaker wires
- 30A fuse in the engine bay
I ran the power cables on the left side of the car and ran the RCA snake on the right. everything was exactly $525 and I did all work myself (it's quite easy if you ask). now the sound quality in my used-to-be-audio-hell car is dam near perfect now and has absolutely no noise/static at all. you can jack the volume up crazy high without any distortions for like 80Hz+. 80Hz and below can be a problem when maxing out the volume as the speakers are only 6.5" and weren't meant to deliver bass. don't get me wrong, they do make nice bass but just don't handle it too well when playing it very loud.
after years of running this setup I'd say this was one of the best investments i've ever made. my car is built for drifting so it is setup very stiff and shakes/jumps like crazy when dailying (300mi/week) and when i do take it out for a spin the amount of stress it sees it crazy. after all this time you'd think at least some wires would come loose but nope, everything is still running perfect.
so yeah, if you actually care about sound quality in your car and would like it to last, just redo it from scratch. it's fun and is totally worth it
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
If your car has an amplifier in the rear, make sure that the headunit-to-amplifier audio cables are at least few feet away from power wires (aka, run them on the opposite side of the car than the power cables).
Which is a power issue
Make sure that the headunit is properly grounded.
Which is a power issue
If that still doesn't help, run both headunit's + and - power wires directly to the car battery.
Which is a power issue
If problem still persists, repeat #2 but for the amp (if you have it).
If all above failed, it's time to invest in a better headunit.
Which is a power issue
Your old one sucks and can't suppress the noise generated by the chassy/alternator.
Which is a power issue
See what I mean?
Cars make a lot of "NOISE" this noise is a power issue. it comes from your alternator and your coil and your spark plugs IE "POWER ISSUES"
if you have bad grounds or are lacking noise suppression (cheap equipment old equipment etc.. etc..) or an older car making a TON of extra noise etc.. etc..
Power inverters (especially cheap ones) are notorious for "dirty power" that lets in noise.
when I power my phone off the USB on the cheap inverter's USB port I get big time whine noises painful even.
use the USB port in the radio and I get no noise (but then it tries to "READ" the phone instead of just charging it and won't let me use aux hehe
Sometimes you can get a coil thing to add to power to reduce this noise but usually its just cheap equipment ($7 power inverter
plug a 110v to usb adapter into same inverter and no noise. The 110v adapter isolates and prevents the noise leakage.
nerys71 said:
Not trying to pick a fight but lets be clear here
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haha time to clear up a misunderstanding here. my reply was referring to the "unplug your phone and it should go away" statement and thus assuming that you, by saying "its a power issue", were referring only to the inverter that was powering the phone at times getting a better quality inverter (aka, one that has capacitor or capacitor-pack to smooth out the voltage spikes and noise) is sufficient and at times it is not. I've experienced both. it's also worth mentioning that after redoing my sound system even the crappiest of crap inverters works just fine
frifox said:
Yes, just swap out the headunit for one with bluetooth build-in. Just make sure it supports A2DP (music streaming over bluetooth). I got mine from Amazon for $140, Sony MEX-BT3900U, and it been simply great. A2DP for bluetooth streaming, Aux port for wired 3.5mm audio, and it has USB port for charging the phone.
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Click to collapse
Yeah, I've looked into those kind of replacements...plenty out there for reasonable prices but they would completely mar the aesthetic value of the nice interior of my Bonny. That's why I was saying that only the touchscreens that would fill the whole double (might be 1.5) din stereo spot in my car would do.
Thanks, both of you guys, for your responses...guess I'm stuck waiting till I get a much newer car
I'm not saying that you're wrong about it being a power issue, but the BT headset I mentioned came with an adapter for an AUX jack and that solved my problem. So, either solution works.
the issue is the radio is connected to the same "power source" that your "phone" is now connected to.
so if any component in that chain does not control the power noise (that is what the noise is coming from your power system)
you INJECT that noise into your audio stream the moment you "link" the devices together (power not audio)
this is why if you use a seperate battery pack to charge the phone you will not get this noise. your battery pack is "isolated" from the car's power system literally physically.
I am only talking about the typical whine pop crackle high pitched noise you get the moment you plug in your charger. IE clear no noise plug in chargers Head burster sounds start coming out of your speakers
that noise is a "power issue" you can't eliminate the power issues (except by eliminating your alternator??) but you can filter it. some devices (chargers) do this better than others
the BT unit works because you "broke" the chain. (no audio cable going from the PHONE to the RADIO)
Again, I'm not denying what you're saying. You're absolutely correct. However, OP was asking for the best BT unit to plug into the jack, not how to solve the issues with cables and power sources. I was simply providing my opinion and experience along the lines of what he was asking for.
So I use an aux cable for audio in my car. I can make calls through the speakers this way. Sometimes though the Mic doesn't work and sometimes it does. Does anyone know if there is something that specially triggers the Mic to work?
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA
Sounds like a loose cable connection. Normally those 3.5mm jacks have 3 or 4 sections on them to support stereo audio plus a mic. If your cable was plugged in and got yanked to the side, it might break some wires in the cable or bend the plug internally (phone or car). But I'm speculating here...got another cable you can try?
Hi Folks,
Please forgive (and link) me if this has been discussed elsewhere, but I've not been able to find much..
I'm trying to build a sort of car dock so I can charge my phone, play music and satnav through my cars head unit and maybe take calls...
I've got the charging covered by using a USB cable (with a USB OTG adapter on the end so that my phone goes into Car Dock mode when it's plugged in) and 12v-USB adapter which are both going to be hidden behind the dash and fed from a 12v accessory feed.
I can butcher a line in on my cars head-unit (VW Gamma in a mk4 Golf) and would like to feed this using the same USB-OTG cable, rather than a separate 3.5mm jack connection.
I've been able to find people who have rigged up a cable like this for other phones, connecting the L/R to the USB data lines and ground to ground to effectively provide a line-out. But I haven't been able to to get the same going with my Desire Z. I've rigged this up to my phone and it opens the car dock and charges, but still plays audio over it's external speaker as it usually would.
Does anyone know if there's a way to get my Desire Z to output audio over a USB(OTG) cable please?
Thanks in advance,
'tunes
When I drove a Taxi a couple of years back I had my SGSI connected to the car stereo with a small FM transmitter. This got its power and powered my phone, through the USB port, via the cars cigarette lighter socket. Spotify supplied the music and Google maps the navigation. I did not try, but guess that a bluetooth headset would have worked if I'd had one. I should mention that the phone did discharge despite being on 'charge'! I guess constant streaming of both music and map data over a data network, full brightness and the charge to the FM transmitter was a bit much for the usb charger