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If you have/get a USA TP2 you will be offered the split hard shell (leather wrapped plastic) case that actually fits and works very well but it has a MAJOR design flaw. Turns out there is a proximity sensor just above and to the right of the letters HTC on the front face (can't see it and don't know how it works) that is used for blanking the screen when in a call. The case TMo will try to sell you covers that sensor and it won't work. I took a 1/2" drill bit and made a hole just to the left and below the hole for the speaker (leaving enough plastic to keep continuity of the frame) and now the sensor works.
I will be calling my local dealer in the morning to make them aware of the problem. This needs to get out because the proximity sensor really works!!!! I wish I had it instead of the light sensor on my Touch HD.
Also make sure that ANY case you buy has that area uncovered.
Regards,
Gordo
jetjockgordo said:
If you have/get a USA TP2 you will be offered the split hard shell (leather wrapped plastic) case that actually fits and works very well but it has a MAJOR design flaw. Turns out there is a proximity sensor just above and to the right of the letters HTC on the front face (can't see it and don't know how it works) that is used for blanking the screen when in a call. The case TMo will try to sell you covers that sensor and it won't work. I took a 1/2" drill bit and made a hole just to the left and below the hole for the speaker (leaving enough plastic to keep continuity of the frame) and now the sensor works.
I will be calling my local dealer in the morning to make them aware of the problem. This needs to get out because the proximity sensor really works!!!! I wish I had it instead of the light sensor on my Touch HD.
Also make sure that ANY case you buy has that area uncovered.
Regards,
Gordo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't see it and don't know how it works.. but after your cutting in the case you know it works.. i don't get it
jetjockgordo said:
...there is a proximity sensor just ... (...don't know how it works) ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A proximity sensors works by sensing if there is anything in its proximity.
xdadJeroen said:
You can't see it and don't know how it works.. but after your cutting in the case you know it works.. i don't get it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I figured out what the OP is talking about. He's referring to a hard plastic shell accessory for the phone. The TP2 has a neat feature of turning off the screen during a call when you put it next to your ear. I wouldn't have noticed it if it weren't for the OP.
vdKarel said:
A proximity sensors works by sensing if there is anything in its proximity.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, that was good. You got me!
xdadJeroen said:
You can't see it and don't know how it works.. but after your cutting in the case you know it works.. i don't get it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Comparing the TP2 to my HD I noticed, before I put the shell on, that screen blanks perfectly during a call when it gets about 1-2" from my face (my HD effectively does not have that feature) and functions much like, dare I say, like the iPhone for the screen blanking. It took me a while to realize the sensor is not near the LED/speaker area but about 1/16" (1-2mm) above and to the right of the letter C from HTC. I initially drilled a hole that was about 1/8" but it was too high and too far left for the sensor to work so I just made the hole larger and now it works perfectly....not pretty put it works. I actually like the hard shell (my wife, not so much since it makes the whole package bulky) and feel that it is providing good protection and good anti-slip properties.
My comment about not knowing how it works is based on the sensor is in a part of the case (phone case, not add-on protective shell case) that can not be seen, no holes, no windows, nothing. It is not infrared and is not visible at all. I guess it could be some kind of ultrasonic emitter/receiver to sense proximity, not sure. Anyone read about how that works?
Gordo
Pretty sure the sensor is optical like this:http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/562865. It can work through plastic that seems opaque to us.
On the EU version the sensor is to the left of the HTC logo about 1cm to the left of the 'H'.
strzelecki said:
Pretty sure the sensor is optical like this:http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/562865. It can work through plastic that seems opaque to us.
On the EU version the sensor is to the left of the HTC logo about 1cm to the left of the 'H'.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great info, thanks. I take it the EU devices have the letters HTC in a place other than just above the top left of the screen?
Question: I am looking on Ebay for another hard/split case like the one I got from my TMo USA dealer and see that some have a hole for the sensor but it appears to be to the right of the speaker. Do the EU devices have the sensor in a different spot?
This is the link I was looking at to buy but the hole is one the wrong side or is it just a picture that has been reversed? Or is that a hole for a front side camera that the USA devices don't have???
http://cgi.ebay.com/2x-MATTE-CASE-R...ries?hash=item4147ebe116&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
My local TMo dealer said they would replace mine so i can drill the hole more accurately but I am still thinking I want to try one from Ebay.
Gordo
The hole in that one appears to be for the camera.
More screen blanking problems
Wow, after some research it looks like no shell/skin type of cases have the cutout for the in-call screen blanking proximity sensor.
If you have a shell/skin for the TP2, can you confirm that feature is/not working?
Gordo
I can confirm that the sensor does not work when I put my silicon case on. I ordered mine from ebay...there is a thread about silicon cases here. Anyway, I did a test like you did and sure enough, the sensor does not work when I have the case on. When I take the case off, the sensor turns off my screen.
Can you post a pic of where you drilled your hole? Thanks.
use a hole puncher on a piece of post-it... move that holey post-it over the suspected area... use other palm to simulate your face... move holey paper until screen blanks... and there's your sensor.
tmobile sells the body glove 2 piece snap on case (hard black case) as well as a 2 piece silicone case combo pack with a car chargeer. the silicone case with the car charger actually has an offset hole for the earpiece and proximity sensor unlike the body glove case.
moral of the story...get the tmobile combo pack that has the silicone case as well as the car charger.
What "Won't Work"?
jetjockgordo said:
If you have/get a USA TP2 you will be offered the split hard shell (leather wrapped plastic) case that actually fits and works very well but it has a MAJOR design flaw. Turns out there is a proximity sensor just above and to the right of the letters HTC on the front face (can't see it and don't know how it works) that is used for blanking the screen when in a call. The case TMo will try to sell you covers that sensor and it won't work. I took a 1/2" drill bit and made a hole just to the left and below the hole for the speaker (leaving enough plastic to keep continuity of the frame) and now the sensor works.
I will be calling my local dealer in the morning to make them aware of the problem. This needs to get out because the proximity sensor really works!!!! I wish I had it instead of the light sensor on my Touch HD.
Also make sure that ANY case you buy has that area uncovered.
Regards,
Gordo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im thinking of getting this phone and so im looking for possible issues but I don't understand why this is a problem. If the phone is in the case, then it would be in proximity to something and it ensures the screen stays off so its not wasting power or getting hot right? Then when its taken out of the case and you bring it out of suspend mode the screen and all turns back on....? what am I missing here?
jetjockgordo said:
Comparing the TP2 to my HD I noticed, before I put the shell on, that screen blanks perfectly during a call when it gets about 1-2" from my face (my HD effectively does not have that feature) and functions much like, dare I say, like the iPhone for the screen blanking. It took me a while to realize the sensor is not near the LED/speaker area but about 1/16" (1-2mm) above and to the right of the letter C from HTC. I initially drilled a hole that was about 1/8" but it was too high and too far left for the sensor to work so I just made the hole larger and now it works perfectly....not pretty put it works. I actually like the hard shell (my wife, not so much since it makes the whole package bulky) and feel that it is providing good protection and good anti-slip properties.
Gordo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Gordo,
I am curious. If the prox sensor blanks the screen when it is close to your face, wouldn't you want it to also blank the screen while in the case? That would seem to keep alerts from leaving a live screen and wearing down the batteries. (That happens to me now with my Tilt.) If so, then you do not want a hole in the case?
Dickr
OmsagroSylph said:
Im thinking of getting this phone and so im looking for possible issues but I don't understand why this is a problem. If the phone is in the case, then it would be in proximity to something and it ensures the screen stays off so its not wasting power or getting hot right? Then when its taken out of the case and you bring it out of suspend mode the screen and all turns back on....? what am I missing here?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you look at my original post I mention that this problem is with the split shell case that is being sold by factory Tmobile retail stores in the USA. Ebay also has a number of 2 piece cases/skins/shells that, without a hole for the sensor, will frustrate people who might not know that the "screen blanking while in call" feature will be rendered unusable. Someone mentioned that it is the Body Glove, hard plastic wrapped in leather, 2 piece case that has one part clip on the display part of the phone and the other part on the back of the keyboard half of the phone. Both halves of the case are intended to remain on the phone. If you are just placing a naked TP2 in, say, a pouch case, then this is not a concern to you and should blank the screen if you are in a call while using a BT headset.
Gordo
jetjockgordo said:
If you look at my original post I mention that this problem is with the split shell case that is being sold by factory Tmobile retail stores in the USA. Ebay also has a number of 2 piece cases/skins/shells that, without a hole for the sensor, will frustrate people who might not know that the "screen blanking while in call" feature will be rendered unusable. Someone mentioned that it is the Body Glove, hard plastic wrapped in leather, 2 piece case that has one part clip on the display part of the phone and the other part on the back of the keyboard half of the phone. Both halves of the case are intended to remain on the phone. If you are just placing a naked TP2 in, say, a pouch case, then this is not a concern to you and should blank the screen if you are in a call while using a BT headset.
Gordo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Gordo,
Thanks. This is much clearer and makes sense if you use a hard plastic case.
Dickr
cabranscom said:
I can confirm that the sensor does not work when I put my silicon case on. I ordered mine from ebay...there is a thread about silicon cases here. Anyway, I did a test like you did and sure enough, the sensor does not work when I have the case on. When I take the case off, the sensor turns off my screen.
Can you post a pic of where you drilled your hole? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you still need a picture of where I had to drill the hole in the hard shell case? If so I can have it posted by tomorrow.
Gordo
Gordo,
Can you please post a few pictures of the Body Glove case (thanks for replying to my previous thread). I cannot locate any decent pictures of the phone from various angles with the Body Glove case.
Thank you
mail_e36 said:
Gordo,
Can you please post a few pictures of the Body Glove case (thanks for replying to my previous thread). I cannot locate any decent pictures of the phone from various angles with the Body Glove case.
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You bet. I am out of town until late tonight and will post some pictures tomorrow.
Gordo
OK, so I dropped my phone and the LCD went out, I hooked the phone up to the laptop and the phone still works fine, even the touch screen works. ( I used My MObiler to see phone screen on the pc).
I bought a new LCD screen off of Ebay and replace it, now, the LCD screen works, but for some reason, the touch screen stopped working.
When I took the LCD apart from the touch screen, there seem to be a layer of grease of some sort between the touch screen and the LCD. I wiped it off with a lens cloth, don't know if that caused any problem.
Also there is a dark film (tinted) glued to the touch screen when looking from the back, what is that for? I looked at replacement touch screen on Ebay but none of them have the tinted film layer. I've search all over the internet for instructions but can't find any.
So my question is, what are the correct procedures for replacing the LCD screen and the touch screen (digitizer) ? Also after I installed the new LCD screen, the screen is very reflective and the glare is really bad, how do I fix that problem?
Thank you experts!!
You should have replaced both the LCD screen and the Digitizer. There are complete kits on ebay as well as instructions/tools to complete the replacement. Did you purchase the digitizer also?
bojangle said:
You should have replaced both the LCD screen and the Digitizer. There are complete kits on ebay as well as instructions/tools to complete the replacement. Did you purchase the digitizer also?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went ahead and purchased the digitizer by itself after the original stopped working. Hopefully, it will get my phone back to normal. Thanks for your reply!
in the wiki theres disassebly instructions of the device that should help you (but you probably already know that since you've already switched out the LCD)
In my experience, i have never replaced either the digitizer, or the LCD by themselves, i've always bought LCD+Digitizer and replaced them as one. Seems like the Digitizer is usually glued onto the LCD and i never wanted to mess with that.
fone_fanatic said:
in the wiki theres disassebly instructions of the device that should help you (but you probably already know that since you've already switched out the LCD)
In my experience, i have never replaced either the digitizer, or the LCD by themselves, i've always bought LCD+Digitizer and replaced them as one. Seems like the Digitizer is usually glued onto the LCD and i never wanted to mess with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I should have ordered the kit instead of just the LCD. What lead me to order just the LCD is when I hooked the phone to my pc and confirmedthe digitizer still worked. And since this is the first time ever I disassemble a phone, I assumed the two things were separated.
But my digitizer should come in tomorrow so I'll just have to wait and see. Thanks for the info.
where did you find a guide to take apart the TP2? I just had the unfortuante luck of smashing mine in the car door as I got in....it fell out of my pocket the exact moment i was closing the door....
My screen is shot, but other than that the device appears to work. I can power on, and try to dial after I press the hard key for the phone pad. The touch portion seems to work, but from your luck, I guess I am looking at having to replace both...
anyhow...any advice on guides and how to find the stuff on the ebay would be apperciated.
I still have 18 months of a 2 yr contract....sucks....and it sucks doubly becuase i just took the insurance off last month....grr..
forcemac said:
where did you find a guide to take apart the TP2? I just had the unfortuante luck of smashing my in the car door as I got in....it feel out of my pocket the exact moment i was closing the door....
My screen is shot, but other than that the device appears to work. I can power on, and try to dial after I press the hard key for the phone bad. The touch portion seems to work, but from your luck, I guess I am looking at having to replace both...
anyhow...any advice on guides and how to find the stuff on the ebay would be apperciated.
I still have 18 months of a 2 yr contract....sucks....and it sucks doubly becuase i just took the insurance off last month....grr..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's a photo guide of the disassembly of a Rhodium (TP2), it might give you some insight. There's also been a number of threads in this section about hardware parts and the screen/digitizer in particular, listing places where people found/ordered replacement parts.
forcemac said:
where did you find a guide to take apart the TP2? I just had the unfortuante luck of smashing mine in the car door as I got in....it fell out of my pocket the exact moment i was closing the door....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The disassembly instructions are here: http://translate.google.co.uk/trans...ka/htc_touch_pro2/&sl=ru&tl=en&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
I did not follow those instructions since I did not want to open the back of the phone.
What i did was I tilted up the phone and used a very small screwdriver and unscrewed the two screws from an angle (it worked).
Then I pried the back of the tilting part of the phone all around to reveal the inside. Be careful not to pull too hard on the flat cable since it's still attached to the back (body) of the phone.
The LCD and touch screen are glued together (I didn't know that before). At this point I would remove the tape that is attaching the flat cable to the back of the LCD, and also lift up the clear yellow tape and detach the three connections.
The widest ribbon is from the LCD, the medium one is for the 4 hard buttons in the front, and the little one is for the touch screen.
I would suggest wearing some sort of anti-static wrist strap (I think I fried my touch screen along with the flat ribbon that is attached to the phone while trying to replace the LCD without anti-static wrist strap).
Once the whole tilting part is freed from the phone, I would carefully push the whole screen (digitizer + lcd) out from the frame, again, they are glued to the frame but can be removed fairly easy.
That's it, the install is reversed of removal and hopefully yours will work again.
Like I said, I think I fried my flat ribbon so after replacing the Digitizer (it came in today), the touch screen still doesn't work, so now I'm looking for that part, I'd appreciate a link to it if anybody knows where to get one.
Oh, and for the parts, just do a search on ebay for "touch pro 2 lcd" or touch pro 2 lcd + digitizer"
Gook luck with your phone!
What tape to use to stick digitizer back to inner bezel/chassis?
Hi - i got as far as trying to replace my Digitizer only to find that the LCD was stuck to it too. So as clever as i am (not) - i tried to remove the LCD off the digitizer - but that just ended up cracking it.
So i'm in the process of ordering a LCD with the digitizer - pre-stuck together (i hope!) - but my question is:
When i removed the digitizer off the front bezel, there was this spongy sort of double sided tape... i assume it was used for a reason and not just any ordinary double sided tape (presumably to allow a bit of leway between the digitizer and the bezel when pressure is applied to the touch screen)...
Any thoughts on what sort of tape this is? - here's some photos of my digitizer and the bezel:
zedii.co.uk/DSC_0002.JPG
^some of that tape is left on the digitizer... it's the black spongy stuff...
zedii.co.uk/DSC_0003.JPG
^i cleaned (removed residue of sticky tape) in the inner part of the bezel where the digitizer would stick...
Any specific tape to use that anyone knows of?
zedii said:
Hi - i got as far as trying to replace my Digitizer only to find that the LCD was stuck to it too. So as clever as i am (not) - i tried to remove the LCD off the digitizer - but that just ended up cracking it.
So i'm in the process of ordering a LCD with the digitizer - pre-stuck together (i hope!) - but my question is:
When i removed the digitizer off the front bezel, there was this spongy sort of double sided tape... i assume it was used for a reason and not just any ordinary double sided tape (presumably to allow a bit of leway between the digitizer and the bezel when pressure is applied to the touch screen)...
Any thoughts on what sort of tape this is? - here's some photos of my digitizer and the bezel:
Any specific tape to use that anyone knows of?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wish you had asked before you ordered the digitizer + LCD, since I ordered mine separately, and they seem to both working ok. The digitizer does not have to be glued to the LCD. But anyway, I just used plain old Gel superglue to glue the digitizer to the bezel. I used Gel superglue so it won't run into the electronics beneath. Things seems to work just fine now.
One thing to consider when you crack open the whole phone though. Be careful not to loose any part from within the phone, because apparently, I lost something, now my accelerometer doesn't work, and my screen doesn't rotate when you slide out the keyboard. Hope it works out for you!
adp9626 said:
I wish you had asked before you ordered the digitizer + LCD, since I ordered mine separately, and they seem to both working ok. The digitizer does not have to be glued to the LCD. But anyway, I just used plain old Gel superglue to glue the digitizer to the bezel. I used Gel superglue so it won't run into the electronics beneath. Things seems to work just fine now.
One thing to consider when you crack open the whole phone though. Be careful not to loose any part from within the phone, because apparently, I lost something, now my accelerometer doesn't work, and my screen doesn't rotate when you slide out the keyboard. Hope it works out for you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the advice adp9626! Well in summary I think I've just been messing about too much and being stupid really.
In the end, I managed to just remove the top part of the screen without actually having to break into the bottom section of the phone.
I was a bit concerned about the whole sticking of the LCD to the Digitizer part. I actually did purchase them separately, however I was not sure what kind of glue was used to stick them both together - as I recall it was a nightmare to try and remove the LCD off the old Digitizer.
So I returned both separate parts (got a full refund as I didn't use them) - and now I am looking to purchase both parts stuck together.
I'm waiting on the guy on eBay to confirm that they are both stuck together. I'm also thinking of using double sided sticky tape to stick the Digitizer back to the inner bezel...
So that's the final plan! I've been a bit silly in rushing with ordering parts etc. but I just want to be on the safe side now - well - at least with the LCD stuck to the Digitizer part.
I will take your advice on the gel superglue if the double sided sticky tape doesn't prove it's stickyness!
Thanks
Zayd.
Can anyone help me find the lcd screen and digitizer as a single unit for Sprint? Everyone I find states not for CDMA.
Thanks
Anyone ??? I spent an hour on google and still came up with no leads.
hyghlndr said:
Anyone ??? I spent an hour on google and still came up with no leads.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ordered one from this guy and it works great. it comes with the entire top half of the phone and the keyboard. There is only one left so you may want to hurry. Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=270583335455&Category=20336&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2
Edit: I wanted to add that they're are slightly used so there will be scratches. The one i received is a little more scratched than my original then again the scratches aren't noticeable when the back light is on and you're getting a working screen.
Just my experience, I had a faulty LCD, digitizer was OK. Bought a replacement LCD off ebay, delivered from China but only cost me £20 inc delivery. Arrived with tools as well (T5, T6, philiips, and pry tool). Followed a couple of disassembly instructions online, took me a while to get all apart but managed it. None of the instructions online go through actually taking the screen out, I thought I'd messed it up as I took the back half of the LCD off and left the front bit on, and I couldnt get it off at first. I ended up using a very sharp scalpel to slide between the LCD and digitizer and got them apart eventually, as I didnt realise that they were glued.
Anyway, I just placed the screen on, no glue as there is a ring of sticky tape around the back of the digitizer which holds the screen in. Connected everything back in the end and its working fine. Only prob is I think I damaged the power/standby button, so be careful when around this area.
Touch Screen not responding after replacement
Recently, I replaced a glass screen on a SGH-M919 Galaxy S4. Previously, during the process of cleaning the glue residues off the LCD screen; I rubbed it with rubbing alcohol and it removed a small streak of the adhesive glue off left side of LCD screen and bottom right corner. After installed the new glass screen, I noticed a few spots of the glass screen wasn't sticking onto the sticky layer. So it looked like it has big air bubble between the glass screen and LCD. And I could see the rubbed off streak on the LCD screen. Everything worked fine with the new glass screen, with the exception of seeing the streak and bottom right corner rubbed off.
A few days ago, I had a table clock fell on top of the phone and broke a piece of glass. Nothing happened to the LCD screen and still functional 100%. So I got a replacement glass screen - the same as the first time replacement. With noticing of the rubbed off streak and corner of the adhesive layer on the LCD screen - I decided to rub off all of the adhesive layer from the LCD. I sprayed some Goof Off liquid on the adhesive layer and left it over night. Next morning I continued scraping off the glue with a small plastic card. Cleaned off all glue residues and examined the LCD screen for any scratches or damage. There was none. Re-installed new glass screen - but now the touch screen does not respond to the touching on the icons. Only the Home, Menu & Back touch button work. I was baffled after this.
Could it be that because I left some the Goof Off liquid on top of the LCD screen over night and it might have leaked to the other side and shorted out something? I saw a few forums that suggested a Factory Reset. I did that - but still didn't work. Please advise on what I need to do to fix this problem.
Thank you in advance for the advise or suggestion.
So you know that these are the TP2 forums, and no one has used this thread in the last 3 years....right?
LCD digitizer replacement.. now black screen
I saw the for replacing the LCD-digitizer of my nexus 4 phone, and followed the steps carefully. After I placed the battery, I checked to see if the phone turns ON and the display is working before I complete the last step of putting the back coverplate. I successfully switched it ON, saw a perfectly working screen, and browsed through my apps. To complete the assembly, I put the back cover by gently pressing the frame along the edges, but suddenly I saw some yellow green lines in the middle of the screen. I switched it off and again switched in ON, but now the entire screen had light with no display.
To fix this, I tried again checking all connections but no luck. What could be the reason for the sudden loss of display when it worked perfectly fine moments ago? Is there a possibility that I damaged the LCD while putting the back cover on the phone?
I am also not sure about one of the ribbon connectors of the digitizer. There are 2 big ones which are prominent and has ports to connect. However, there is a little third one which also has to come through the gap but doesn’t connect anywhere. Has anyone also experienced this while replacing the screen? Any help will be appreciated.
This might be useful to others experiencing the same issue.
It began with the screen turning off whenever the dialer or skype has connected. A frustrating experience for the wife as she was traveling overseas. I thought it was a ROM install issue until it dawned on me it could be the proximity sensor. True enough, sensor apps reported nothing from neither the light sensor nor the proximity sensor, though front camera worked fine.
I swapped it with one from a spare toroplus, and it worked. On the toroplus, the bad one still didn't work confirming it's defective. It's interesting that the front camera on the same accessory board had no issue at all. Oh well, a replacement is a few bucks from ebay.
Regarding the assembly/disassembly: it's very simple. Remove all visible screws under the battery cover, then insert a plastic prying tool between the glass and the case, then work the case off. Once the back cover is off, the main board could come off after disconnecting the various micro connectors.
My impression was that the toroplus main board was much easier to remove because the connections to the power/volume switches are simple snap-on. On the maguro, the connector to the power switch is finicky. After accidentally detaching it and seeing it was quite brittle, I put it back on and left it attached as I was able to push up the lock of the front camera board connector with a small flat head screwdriver.
Very cool... but this thread is worthless without pics!
Pics, or it didn't happen.
I was experiencing random screen shutoffs after fitting my galaxy note 10.1 (2014) for a new case.
It took a while before I finally realized that the random shut offs were being triggered by the case, more specifically, when the edge of my case came in line with the edge of the tablet, which is an awesome feature when you have the cover covering the front of the unit.
But the problem is it manages to shut off screen regardless of which side of the unit the cover is on, as long as the edge of the cover is aligned with the units edge. This can be quite frustrating when trying to read while holding the tablet in certain orientations.
Questions: I was wondering if anyone else has experienced similar issues with their cases/covers (a little research seems to indicate this is not an isolated issue and many, if not all, cases/covers suffer from this issue).
1) If you have not, which cases/covers do you use? Do these cases resolve the issue by never aligning the cover to the same position when flipped backwards as when flipped forwards (i.e. skewed slightly short of the edge when in backwards position)?
2) If you have experienced this issue, how have you addressed it? Can you disable the magnetic sensor?
3) Would weakening the magnet in the case perhaps ensure that it was only sensed in the forward position?
SKida00 said:
I was experiencing random screen sback andk ffs after fitting my galaxy note 10.1 (2014) for a new case.
It took a while before I finally realized that the random shut offs were being triggered by the case, more specifically, when the edge of my case came in line with the edge of the tablet, which is an awesome feature when you have the cover covering the front of the unit.
But the problem is it manages to shut off screen regardless of which side of the unit the cover is on, as long as the edge of the cover is aligned with the units edge. This can be quite frustrating when trying to read while holding the tablet in certain orientations.
et in the case perhaps ensure that it was only sensed in the forward position?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes i have the same problem. pick up A generic folio type case for my P600. Case looks and feels great. Auto wake works brilliantly when I open the cover, but there is the problem of The screen turning off when I flip the cover over to the back and the magnetic edges meet. Dunno how to fix this yet. Tried the magnetoff xposed module but that doesn't seem to work.
I got the Moko slim case and the same thing happens, what I did to circumvent the problem was to put my screen cleaning cloth between the case and the tablet. This prevents the magnet from locking the screen when completely folded backwards, the only thing is that this method will block the camera with the cloth. For me this is not a problem I don't see myself using the camera on my tablet when I can use my SGS3's camera, and this way I never forget my screen cleaning cloth .
I've read about this on other devices on various covers as well. they think it mah be due to the magnet not being properly shielded. dunno any fixes other than get another case.
I hade a cover for my old Ipad and it all so turn off the Ipad when I flipped over the cover.
It did turn out the problem was with the magnet and after getting a new one, the problem was solved.
My poetic slimline work perfectly no issues at all. Love the look and feel, I do want a carry slevee tho for more protection if I wanna bring it out of the house. Or even just to store in the house. But overall love this case.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
Get a piece of sheet metal (strip out a cheapie magnetic whiteboard , a few dollars at a variety store) cut to just less than the back of the tablet screen.
Cover it with a thin plastic film (to safeguard from cutting yourself)
It will adhere to the back of the screen magnetically and flatten the magnet's field
Now you can use the device with the keyboard tucked away behind the screen. (you may have to leave a small air gap say 5mm to 10 mm)
This does not affect the normal screen-keyboard functions when used conventionally
Same problem with Galaxy Tab A (Nougat)
There is an option in the tab to turn it off, but regardless what you choose, the tablet still responds to the magnet. Very annoying when you lay down your tablet flat. For now i just put something between the cover and the back of the tablet, like a handkerchief. This works for me, but ofcourse it's not a solution just a workaround. I'm still trying to find a solution.
Did you find any way to turn off the magnetic lock and unlock function? When I backfold my cover (aftermarket), it automatically locks my tab. Which is very irritating. I have Samsung galaxy tab S5e
There wasn't a good search result on a way to disable it via software or hardware mod so I thought I would post the solution I just did on my daughter's new tablet folio.
She has an old S3 Tab so the options are quite limited so figured modification was the only way. I ended up removing 3 magnets until I figured out which one actually did the on/off Hall effect. The smart thing to do would have been to use a magnet to find where on the tablet the Hall effect sensor was first, then remove just that magnet. The other magnets are for holding the clasp in place when the folio is open or closed.
I just cut an X over the magnet location, removed it, then filled it back in with hot glue. On her tablet, the Hall sensor was on the top left (fat arrow). It's annoying to have to do this but there's no other way. I tried the metal plate trick but that looked pretty bad and didn't always work.
Hope that helps someone
Hi,
I've just purchased the following case for my MTB as it was recommended to me by a friend who has a smaller Samsung phone. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071PCMM3Z?th=1
When I insert my Pixel 2XL, the screen goes blank and won't respond to the double tap, so wanted to know if anyone knows why. I've trawled through the settings but am at a loss. I'm guessing it's some sort of sensor that is getting blocked when properly inserted into the case. The phone works perfectly outside of the case.
Apologies if posted in the wrong forum.
Thanks
The case must be covering the proximity sensor, so the phone thinks it's in a pocket. The proximity sensor is just under the top speaker grille. You can probably cut the bike case up a little to get that sensor exposed.