Hello Everyone new here to the forum, I have been browsing around the forums, in search for a fix for the camera issue that seems to be happening frequently. I have a rooted HTC Evo4g everytime I flash a rom whether it be a SENSES/AOSP etc my camera will either work for a few minutes to a few hours then stop working completely leaving me with a blank black screen/or it will show the camera logo on startup and then a black screen. I've rebooted my phone,cleared cache,took out battery and still no permanent fix. I was looking around for a possible update, and am slightly confused as to if my phone requires one. Here is my information from my HBOOT hopefully this is all the information needed. Need anymore information please let me know. Thank you!!!
Revolutionary
Supersonic EVT3 SHIP S-OFF
HBOOT-6.16.1002
MICROP-041F
TOUCH PANEL-ATMEL224-16ab
RADIO-2.15.00.0000
Mar 8 2011,17:02:15
undergroundx said:
Hello Everyone new here to the forum, I have been browsing around the forums, in search for a fix for the camera issue that seems to be happening frequently. I have a rooted HTC Evo4g everytime I flash a rom whether it be a SENSES/AOSP etc my camera will either work for a few minutes to a few hours then stop working completely leaving me with a blank black screen/or it will show the camera logo on startup and then a black screen. I've rebooted my phone,cleared cache,took out battery and still no permanent fix. I was looking around for a possible update, and am slightly confused as to if my phone requires one. Here is my information from my HBOOT hopefully this is all the information needed. Need anymore information please let me know. Thank you!!!
Revolutionary
Supersonic EVT3 SHIP S-OFF
HBOOT-6.16.1002
MICROP-041F
TOUCH PANEL-ATMEL224-16ab
RADIO-2.15.00.0000
Mar 8 2011,17:02:15
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol look at yur camera is it scratch up?
Sent from my PC36100 using xda premium
Question about your camera not working. By any chance did you drop your phone? My phone did the same thing as yours, the camera worked for a few minutes or the lcd goes blank, when it does, the camera app went into forced closed. I had a ic rom. I tryed to install the oem htc camera app, same results, forced closed. I searched on this forum and found out that the rear camera and the retaining clip to the camera popped off the logic board. I resecured the rear camera and retaining clip and retested. The camera worked after I reseated the camera and the clip. Hope that helps.
chickipaul said:
Question about your camera not working. By any chance did you drop your phone? My phone did the same thing as yours, the camera worked for a few minutes or the lcd goes blank, when it does, the camera app went into forced closed. I had a ic rom. I tryed to install the oem htc camera app, same results, forced closed. I searched on this forum and found out that the rear camera and the retaining clip to the camera popped off the logic board. I resecured the rear camera and retaining clip and retested. The camera worked after I reseated the camera and the clip. Hope that helps.
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Click to collapse
I have dropped my phone a few times in the past, maybe that's why its doing that?.. Cause I did flash a few kernels and it kept doing the whole working/not working thing whenever it wanted too. Is there a certain way you fixed getting the clip retained? Maybe try apply pressure to the back of the lens or something? And to the poster above me, its only alittle scratched, nothing that ever bothered it before, from what I've noticed.
Thanks for the helps much appreciated!
undergroundx said:
I have dropped my phone a few times in the past, maybe that's why its doing that?.. Cause I did flash a few kernels and it kept doing the whole working/not working thing whenever it wanted too. Is there a certain way you fixed getting the clip retained? Maybe try apply pressure to the back of the lens or something? And to the poster above me, its only alittle scratched, nothing that ever bothered it before, from what I've noticed.
Thanks for the helps much appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The best way to address this concern is to remove the back casing of the phone. First remove the battery cover. Then remove the battery from the phone. Remove the sim card. Use a torq bix screw driver with a T-5 sized bit. Remove the 6 torq screws on the rear cover of the phone. Use a plastic tool like a credit card, guitar pick or if you have phone tools like a plastic spludger or case separator tool. After you remove the 6 screws on the rear case, turn the phone to the side and you will use the plastic tools mentioned above to seperate the two case halves, the rear battery case and the front lcd, digitizer frame. Carefully pry the two cases apart. Lay the lcd case face down on a non scratch surface like a micro fiber towel to prevent scratching of the digitizer when servicing the rear camera. Now you will see the rear camera and the mounting bezel on the logic board. To see if the camera is unseated on the logic board, gently press the rear camera mounting bezel and camera at the same time, you should hear a click. Before reassembling the phone, make sure that the volume rocker and power buttons are still in place on the lcd frame. Then install the rear cover back on the lcd frame, make sure that the two cases halves snap together, use light pressure to seat the two cases together. Then install the 6 T-5 torq screws to the rear case. Tighten the case screws in a criss cross pattern, start with the four corners then tighten the screws gently without stripping the threads out. Install the sim card, install the battery, then the rear battery cover. Then power up the phone and recheck the camera for operation. This should address your concern. If you need more help, post back or pm me. Good Luck.
chickipaul said:
The best way to address this concern is to remove the back casing of the phone. First remove the battery cover. Then remove the battery from the phone. Remove the sim card. Use a torq bix screw driver with a T-5 sized bit. Remove the 6 torq screws on the rear cover of the phone. Use a plastic tool like a credit card, guitar pick or if you have phone tools like a plastic spludger or case separator tool. After you remove the 6 screws on the rear case, turn the phone to the side and you will use the plastic tools mentioned above to seperate the two case halves, the rear battery case and the front lcd, digitizer frame. Carefully pry the two cases apart. Lay the lcd case face down on a non scratch surface like a micro fiber towel to prevent scratching of the digitizer when servicing the rear camera. Now you will see the rear camera and the mounting bezel on the logic board. To see if the camera is unseated on the logic board, gently press the rear camera mounting bezel and camera at the same time, you should hear a click. Before reassembling the phone, make sure that the volume rocker and power buttons are still in place on the lcd frame. Then install the rear cover back on the lcd frame, make sure that the two cases halves snap together, use light pressure to seat the two cases together. Then install the 6 T-5 torq screws to the rear case. Tighten the case screws in a criss cross pattern, start with the four corners then tighten the screws gently without stripping the threads out. Install the sim card, install the battery, then the rear battery cover. Then power up the phone and recheck the camera for operation. This should address your concern. If you need more help, post back or pm me. Good Luck.
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Click to collapse
Thanks man!!! I will defiantly try that, hopefully without any issue or anything. Thanks again. Will report back when/hopefully issue is resolved!
In addition to the constant influx of iPods and iPhones friends, family, and coworkers bring me to fix, I've taken apart a few different Xperia PLAY phones more times than I can count, so I thought I'd give a few "pro tips" to people who need to know the ins and outs of it. This isn't a disassembly, assembly, or even a repair guide, it's just the stuff I think those guys missed.
First, don't use a heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the front glass + digitizer. The plastic frame wrinkles and melts readily, particularly right under the face buttons.
Second, make sure you transfer as much as possible when you replace the frame. Replacement frames usually do not include the rubber shroud for the proximity sensor and it will not work right without it. I had one phone that seemingly worked fine until the screen protector peeled off while inserting in a pocket and then no amount of clear tape, screen protectors, or Sharpie-marking would fix it. A salvaged rubber shroud fixed it right up. Some replacement frames have a film-backed adhesive for holding it there and some don't. It probably depends on when they were yanked from the manufacturing line, assuming that they are original parts and not replica parts. You also want to make sure you transfer are the inner dust gasket that goes underneath the frame/glass or else things will be filling up with dust quickly. There is no speaker grill and the foam around it does not stop intrusion. A salvaged frame/glass adhesive is likely to allow dust in unless you didn't have to pick much out of it when swapping (usually glass shards). There are also little metallic grounding foam rectangles crammed in the corners that only one replacement frame I've seen has ever included (was probably salvage though listed as "new"). They probably aren't necessary and I've gone long periods without them, but why wonder if a static charge build up is responsible for your erratic touch screen?
Next, be extremely careful separating the glass from the frame. I've managed to crack good ones even going slowly and leaving gaps filled with picks and pry tools. Heat didn't seem to help much and, as mentioned earlier, is discouraged. Cleaning the screen after man-handling it isn't always easy, but don't avoid touching the back side because you will probably need the area to spread the pressure and avoid a crack. I use a levered "mini suction cup" from Harbor Freight on the top side and as many fingers as spread out as I can on the bottom, but the suction cup is near useless on a cracked screen (even tape-coated). I do suggest covering a shattered screen with tape to hold all the bits together but you are still going to have a hard time cleaning the adhesive up. You can always buy a frame with digitizer pre-installed but I know a lot of you want to buy complete replacement housings instead and it's kind of a waste, but at least you don't need to worry about that adhesive (still: don't forget to transfer the other bits!).
The digitizer parts I've salvaged from phones had higher version numbers than the ones I've seen sold as replacement parts and seemed to be more erratic so I prefer salvaged ones. There can be other problems as well. The flat flex cable from the digitizer is supposed to have an adhesive backing that holds it still where it connects to the tiny cable from the earpiece. Replacements often do not have it, which is yet ANOTHER reason to prefer salvage parts. It may not seem like such a big deal considering that there is a black plastic piece screwed down over it to protect it from getting caught in the mechanism, but the connector does not hold on very well and the phone will not boot if it is slightly out of alignment. If you reassemble it and just get a buzz from the vibration motor with no display and no other sign of booting, check this connection (same thing if the digitizer suddenly stops registering touch). Even a small drop/impact will cause it to happen again, so I recommend securing it with precisely cut tape or hot glue (stay clear of the sliding rails).
Now, keep it clean while you work or you will be staring at that contaminate or thumbprint for a long time. I usually wear fresh latex gloves when working on the glass but it doesn't do much good if you keep transferring oils from the rest of the phone. Wash your hands right before you start and clean the outside of the phone. Before you begin, try just touch a used dish soap dispenser with a damp thumb and run all along to screen except the buttons and earpiece. Do it again with just the damp thumb (dilutes the soap that remained from the first pass) and wipe it with a clean lint-free cloth. Your own clean and dry fingertips/palm should readily absorb any remaining streaks/oils. Be sure to wipe down the rest of the phone too and don't transfer it back to the glass. Once inside I use layer after layer of clear tape to lift gunk from the earpiece (no mesh, remember?). Put on new gloves before you start handling the glass after disassembly, even if you were wearing some for disassembly. To clean the back of the glass I put the adhesive between wax paper while I clean using lint-free cloths, 90+% alcohol, and acetone. For the LCD, use tape to lift most contaminates and resort to alcohol + lint-free cloth if that doesn't work. It doesn't need to be too perfect, especially if scratched from cracked glass. Most imperfections only show when it's off.
Hot glue is great for removing adhesive screw covers without showing pick marks or other signs of tampering but you have to make sure to leave an edge exposed so that you aren't just picking it out of the glue instead. I've been getting mine off cleanly without any tricks like this but it came in handy when I was first disassembling one and there weren't any guides to tell me that there weren't screws under the large silver strip (just covers rivets or injections mold points, IIRC). It's also good for sealing off water sensors, like the one you see through a hole under the battery door. There's another one by the contacts on the battery itself, one by the microphone under the gamepad, and one in the opposite corner under the PS Certified logo. I had an AT&T rep tell me that a brand new phone had a tripped water sensor (LIES!) so I would look for ways to do this with most any new phone.
I can't count how many times I've left the power button out while reassembling. It's not usually that I forgot: It's that it falls out while snapping the back on. I've left the face buttons out a few times too.
My first one had the cable folded wrong after reassembly. It still worked fine for a couple years but did eventually require replacement. Once it folds wrong it'll probably stay that way even after correct reassembly (like mine did). Do not try to attach it to the main PCB using a spudger, butterknife, or whatever to awkwardly push the connector down with everything pulled apart. The only thing you need to do is to slide the cable into the phone's closed position, align the plastic posts on the connector with the corresponding holes on the PCB, and then push down on the PCB until it snaps. I'm sure I tried this first back then but chickened out because the connector didn't snap very easily but that is how you are supposed to do it.
Before I talk about the replacing the slide cable, I want to express my annoyance at all the eBay/YouTube/iFixIt.com people who call it a "flex cable." I don't like the term flex cable because generally ALL cables should be flexible and that doesn't distinguish what it is well enough for people looking for the part. Technically, it's a flat cable or a slide cable, though I wouldn't object to it being called a flex PCB (flex PCBs usually have components other than just connectors like a rigid printed circuit board would). "Flex cable" is silly, redundant, and does not describe anything more specific than just "cable." To complicate matters, there are several actual flex PCBs in this phone to distinguish from when ordering the part. Why did so many people start calling flex PCBs "flex cables" in the first place?! In our case the sliding portion is a *flat* cable, so I can see where "cable" was introduced from, but people say "flex cable" for any flat cable made like a flex PCB these days whether fixed or sliding. At least you know now that you are probably going to have to use the incorrect terminology to find what you want online and sift through many useless results.
*whew*
Now, slide cable replacement is easier than it would seem but intact removal isn't and brand new replacements can be defective. It was a troubleshooting nightmare when I encountered a defective one because I replaced the LCD and glass + digitizer at the same time and suspected/checked everything else first, even taking apart my personal phone multiple times to test parts. The plastic part of the connector on the PCB end must be transferred to the new cable and the old one will not reliably stick back down to it even if you did not contaminate the adhesive. I successfully transferred a cable from a water-damaged phone to my personal phone before fixing up the water-damaged donor phone with a new one, so the adhesive on the salvaged part was weak and I didn't realize how hard it was to remove intact until later. When separating the defective new one there was seemingly no place to pry on one end other than underneath the part where the earpiece/camera connector was located. This broke the side of the connector that holds the locking flap though I was still able to use/lock it. I claimed warranty on the defective part anyway because the connector was not needed for proving the cable was defective (a functional cable works with that connector populated or not). This new part was slightly different from those found originally installed in the phone (different colored plastic connectors and such). The second new one I ordered from elsewhere had double-sided adhesive down the middle, a foil quality control sticker, and the same odd connector colors. I didn't think there was a market for replica parts on this phone but it does seem like more than simple factory revisions. Anyway, removing it involves removing metallic tape then lifting a plate that is still adhered underneath with amber-colored Kapton tape. You can see it from the slide mechanism below. I pinch the plate from above and below with two fingers and lift, gradually peeling the tape which I then fold inside and secure to avoid contaminating the adhesive. The cable has a plastic band across it that fits between fingers on this plate. When secured, this isolates the end with multiple connectors from the movement of the sliding portion, so make sure this is in place when reinstalling. It may be best to avoid removing the adhesive backing paper until after the plate and cable are securely taped back down with both the Kapton and metallic tape while the fingers are holding it in position. If you stick it down first and then secure the plate you may find it slightly too long or short to position inside the plate when securing it all back down. To thread the main connector through the slide board opening it may seem that it will only fit by folding the cable but DON'T! Coil it. Without flattening it, bend the connector 90-degrees over from the cable path and then adjust the angle until you have a coil-shape that you can work through with the connector sideways.
I ordered a "no useable parts" dummy phone just for the heck of it and, other than the Sony Ericsson logo on the fake battery door and maybe the stickers that cover the screws, they really don't have any salvageable parts. You can't swap any buttons, keys, springs, covers, etc into a real phone. The closest would be the face buttons. They will fit in a real phone, but they are too tall and put constant pressure on the PCB switches causing unintended key-presses (especially back and search buttons). The extra height easily protrudes out the top and is not the issue so filing them down vertically won't fix anything. I snipped some excess rubber to more closely match the design of the original buttons but it didn't help. I unscrewed the screw in the corner under the search key and unsnapped the bottom edge of the frame from the back/slide board and they work great until the phone inevitably snaps back together. I'd say they felt better then the original with the extra height (I can't stand how close they are to the screen). It's tolerable with ICS/JB's Navigation Bar (on-screen key functions), but I would rather salvage real buttons or pay too much for the eBay ones ($10-$20; very uncommon part; always sold with crap you probably don't need).
I have yet to find a replacement battery door that includes the rubber trim around the speakers and the foam piece surrounding the rear/noise-canceling microphone. I've ordered a few auctions that show them in the pictures but they always arrive bare. You can transfer them with a razor but it likely won't be perfect. Without them the speaker audio will probably echo around inside the battery compartment and make its way into the mic, though people usually don't notice it. Painting on some Plasti-Dip might do the trick, so try that if it bothers you.
Unlike an iPhone with a million different screws, you don't have to keep track of what goes where and everything is easily accessible. Bare minimum to take it all apart: Some fingernails, a T5 or T6 (pick one) and a PH0, 00, or 000 Phillips (pick one). There don't seem to be any tamper/warranty seals and the only concealed screws are the two obvious ones underneath metallic cover stickers on the display/slide board. There are no screws under tape or labels and no water sensors covering them either. All 6 Phillips screws are the same size but you'll likely want to keep the two with adhesive in their original holes to re-use the covers (adhesive usually remains on the screw instead of the cover). There are only two different Torx screw types but it's obvious what goes where (6 stubby flat ones on the top and bottom, 7 long thin ones around the battery area).
There are bits and bobs taped to and embedded in the rear housing including antenna/RF stuff, some more obvious that others. I've compared and the R800x is very different from the R800at even though the plastic frame looks really similar (R800x has a blocked SIM slot, of course). IMO, any housing swap should be limited to the front frame, the gamepad, and the battery door (only colored parts anyway). If you nicked your chrome, hopefully it was on a button or something that can be swapped (springs are a pain). It may be possible to transfer everything but I wouldn't trust it after all the peeling and picking. The one report I've seen of someone transferring between a GSM/CDMA models seems blissfully unaware of the metal wire behind the volume keys on the CDMA model that isn't there on GSM (at least it's not there on my R800at GSM).
That's all my advice for now. If you are having any trouble, let me know.
Excellent guide, thank you for taking the time to type this up. I think a mod should sticky this.....
Awesome guide! Thanks much for it!
@ozzmanj1 Agree, so more people will notice it.
Thanks for help buddy!!!
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Arevyn said:
So, first I want to say thanks for this post as it's been invaluable in my working on my own XP.
I'm in the process of changing out the LCD and slide cable and am wondering about versions of the phone and compatibility. On Ebay I'm finding lots of parts listed as being for R800i\R800x\R800a. Very few parts are listed for R800at (which is what I have)
In changing out parts (anything hardware related) what parts are interchangeable and what parts are not? Anyone able to help?
Right now I'm looking at LCD screen and slide cable, but in the future I would like to change out the digitizer (I read the other page about having to possibly roll back to a different kernel) and perhaps other inner workings of the phone as well. I would just like to know what I can use from other models of the XP and what are model specific.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
CZroe said:
Just about everything but the chrome back housing is a simple swap. LCD, slide cable, digitizer, camera/earpiece, face buttons, game pad, slide board, front frame, camera, headphone jack, etc. The only parts tied together for compatability are the motherboard and the chrome back housing and that is because it has all the antennas installed in it. It's probably possible to move all the components but I've never even had to take the speakers out and can't speak to the difficulty or possibility for certain. I'm worried that lifting the adhesive films would damiage the antennas inside. As I mentioned in the OP, there are other little parts to move when you compare the two and note the differences. Good luck!
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
Arevyn said:
Awesome! Thanks so much.
---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
Have you noticed a difference in an LCD screen with a green cable vs one with an orange cable? I have an orange one in mine, and wasnt sure if its a different part, or just a different batch of screens
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Click to collapse
I am color blind and never took notice but I switched LCD between R800i, R800x, and R800at and they were all compatible. They have no reason to make anything in that half of the phone different, so they don't.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
narflynn619 said:
As for the case of the digitizer, mine has some parts (lower left) that are not recognizing touch inputs. Will realigning the digitizer cable help? I' d really not want to buy a new one right now as I am quite on a tight budget. Please help. Totally in distress here with my very sickly Play.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
matfai said:
Hey, I've also experience same problems as yours... I just wonder is it the flex cable or digitizer....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
CZroe said:
If only some areas are responsive then I'm pretty sure it's the digitizer. The IC likely encodes the output so that all the raw connections don't need to be extended over the slide cable. IOW, the pins that carry digitizer data probably carry encoded data so that it's fewer pins. This means it would work either all or not at all if the slide cable had anything to do with it.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
matfai said:
Thanks for reply... So, do I have to replace the digitizer or just realigning the cable will help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my experience, cable alignment has also been an all or nothing issue so you probably need to replace the digitizer. It couldn't hurt to realign the digitizer cable first just in case it can avoid an unnecessary expense. That fixed a Cubot C9+ I worked on Saturday (digitizer not working at all) but not the iPhone 4S I worked on yesterday (bottom row of digitizer not responding).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
stuck in safe mode after replace slider cable(flex)
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
docsmiley said:
Hi i'm writing here in hopes you can help me, i bought and replaced the "flex cable" and it kinda worked, somehow it can only boot in safe mode and back, home and menu buttons on the front is unresponsive (i can use joypad though) i've tried opening it up again to check for loose connectors and i even tried disconnect the cable to the front buttons but safe mode persists, i tried to flash several official ftf images and a custom rom to see if it helped, but also without any luck.
I hope that you can help me.
Thx for a nice indepth post
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Bakisha said:
If you are booting in safe mode, that "menu" button is always pressed. My guess is faulty/damaged flex cable. You can try your old flex cable and see can you enter flash/fastboot mode (test to see is back and search button is working)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
docsmiley said:
Search button is working as intended (also when booted into safe mode) and i can enter flash mode with back button and flash ftf files, back button is just not functional when booted (only on joypad).
I also figured it had to be the flex cable but i thought i was so carefull when mounting it so i didn't thought i damaged it.
The old flex cable didn't give any picture at all, so can't see if it boots into safe mode with that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have received a defective flex cable before so it's possible you have also. In my case it didn't work at all (no picture).
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Thanks for your replies I'll see if I can get it replaced
Sendt fra min Galaxy S4 med Tapatalk
slide flex replacement
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
dashu31 said:
hi, its my second time replacing the slide flex cable of my r800i, however this time, my digitizer is unresponsive to the flex i bought, i bought it in the same store where i bought the first one which was perfectly fine before,
my question is does the slide flex cable of xperia play 4G differs to the slide flex cable of the old one xperia play r800i,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are the same. I have also switched then between a "4G" R800at and a R800x. I have also received bad digitizer flex cables that were new. It really is luck of the draw. A lot of replacement parts on eBay are factory seconds, which may have been removed from the production line for good reason. That's why I always order parts in sets of two for anything I know I will need in the future and I always test both. For example, recently I got two iPhone 4S screens and one had the frame installed upside down. Before that I ordered two replacement iPhone 4 30-pin dock replacements and one had a defective microphone. Before that I ordered two iPod touch 2G digitizer/frame assemblies and one didn't work along the left side.
Here I am identifying a couple bad iPhone displays from a lot:
http://youtu.be/TbxzCiGhwPM
I didn't own an iPhone so I had to test them all with the phone the first customer provided.
Edit: Oh! And make sure the problem is not with the digitizer connection under the black plastic cover. Mine works it's way loose all the time and needs to be secured with tape. Even when inserted fully straight and locked, I put it together and find it not working or the display black until I take it back apart and reseat it. It will twist slightly and even the slightest angle affects the connection.
Hello all, Yesterday the headphone jack of my Elephone P8000 stopped working. Today I repaired it and I would like to share how I performed the repair. It is really easy and everyone can do it it took me 15 minutes.
Tools needed to perform the repair:
*Philips screw driver
*Tweezers (optional)
*Hair dryer
*soldering iron.
*Solder
#Step1:
-Remove the battery cover, SIMs and SD-card
#Step2:
-Remove all screws.
#Step3.
-Heat up the finger print scanner with a hair dryer to loosen the adhesive.
#Step4:
-Gently lift up the fingerprint scanner.
#Step5:
-Remove the hidden screw under the fingerprint scanner.
#Step6:
-Remove the plastic bezel.
#Step7:
-Disconnect the fingerprint scanner and remove it.
#Step8:
-Disconnect, Battery, GSM antenna, Rear camera, Button flex cable, Screen flex, bottom board flex, Proximity flex.
#Step9:
-Remove rear camera module (heat from screen side to loosen the adhesive if necessary).
#Step10:
-Remove main board.
#Step11:
-Turn on your solder iron, and carfully resolder de headphone jack joints to the main board.
#Step12:
-Reassemble the phone, (note: The metal battery cover screw hole needs to be on top of the plastic bezel you removed at the beginning).
Good luck!
Sorry for my english, i'm italian
How to disconnect these things?
This is a fine DIY repair; job well done!
Nice pictures and well explained. Please do it some more if you have the time that is ...
Thank you for your time and effort.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn Elephone P8000 met Tapatalk
have repair my headphone jack some days ago the same way. this is maybe a penny more production cost. this should not happend, but elephone fails again
This should be pinned! Thanks a ton for this great guide! Worked for me, I have audio again!
Thanks for the detailed walk through. I finally took the plunge (after a couple of months of putting it off) and fixed my headphone port.
Just to note, I didn't have to unstick the front facing camera module. I managed to remove the board by just disconnecting the connector and leaving the camera module stuck to the base.
The only part I struggled with was putting it back together . The board needs to slot under the tiny metal retaining lip just to the left of the antenna lead pin. It's mostly visible in the Step 8 photo, a bit obscured by the red outline around the antenna pin. You need to slide the board under it when you put it back together. It was sat on top of the lip the first time I tried and then the white plastic frame wouldn't sit flush.
Repair the camera lens
Would you be able to detail the steps for rear lens replacement... as i have a crack lens that need to fix....
Just to keep this thread on the Go, done mine @ the week end and no more crackling from the head phones? after soldering but something weird has happened !! no icon has appeared when plugging phones in but they are working and so is the general speaker as well as the same time cant switch one to the other so I am no better off?
Any suggestions???
Many thanks for reading
Hello,
I just did it and all went good until I powered it again on, everything works except the display and I plugged the screen cable into the mainboard. Please help!
Thank you so much for this guide!! I had the same problem, after extracting the main board I checked connection and soldering without detecting any failures but I resoldered the connector anyway and the problem has been solved. Thanks!
Is there a large risk of you leave a the ribbon connections in place, and just solder the audio jack pins very carefully?
Sent from my p8000 using Tapatalk
Great guide
Just did the repair, your pictures are a great help!
Somebody who has the same problem as me? After I did this repair the sound only came out of one side. I have no idea how to fix this. I checked the solder points twice so I don't think that's the problem.
Okay I did not manage to fix the headphones jack, however, the speakers and vibrations are not working now I cannot hear anything. What should I do?
edit: nevermind, fixed the speaker
I recently ran across the same issue others were having with the back and front camera not launching after update. I did not believe it was hardware myself.
However, being a computer technician every test i ran pointed to hardware. So i dug into ny phone here is what i found.
I pulled my phone appart pulled out battery and mother board. Where the camera eletric ribbons connect to the back of the motherboard the ribbon clamp becomes loose after time, not enough to fully dislodge the ribbon but for it to become slanted causing the camera to be electronically active thusly causing the in use by other program error and black screen. Easy fix takes about 15 minutes a small screw driver and electronic tweezers
If you have been having this issue i hope this helps its a free reolution to the ze5511ml
Red texan
Did you happen to have pics of the disassembly?
I did not take pics, however if you google "asus zenphone 2 disassembly" there are a couple videos that explain the process quite simply. My biggest tip would be to make sure you plug in everything exactly how it was when you dissasembled i forgot to plug in my touch screen when i first attempted so i had to go back and find the ribbon also the ribbon clamps ar white make sure you dont lift up the brown part or you will break your clamps
Redtexan said:
I recently ran across the same issue others were having with the back and front camera not launching after update. I did not believe it was hardware myself.
However, being a computer technician every test i ran pointed to hardware. So i dug into ny phone here is what i found.
I pulled my phone appart pulled out battery and mother board. Where the camera eletric ribbons connect to the back of the motherboard the ribbon clamp becomes loose after time, not enough to fully dislodge the ribbon but for it to become slanted causing the camera to be electronically active thusly causing the in use by other program error and black screen. Easy fix takes about 15 minutes a small screw driver and electronic tweezers
If you have been having this issue i hope this helps its a free reolution to the ze5511ml
Red texan
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just re-seated the camera ribbon on my ZenFone 2 and it worked for me! Front shows up blank, so I'm wondering if the front camera itself is fried... May try to pick up a front camera module for it cheap.
KnightGeek said:
Just re-seated the camera ribbon on my ZenFone 2 and it worked for me! Front shows up blank, so I'm wondering if the front camera itself is fried... May try to pick up a front camera module for it cheap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a separate ribbon for front facing.
Oh, I know. It just didn't work for me, and I managed to crack the front camera clip on the board... So, I rigged up some foam tape against the back of the screen to give it pressure, but that still didn't do it. It may be the module itself.