Greenish screen - Galaxy Tab S Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Sometimes my screen gets a greenish tone. If I bend slightly the tablet it turns back to normal but when I stop applying pressure it turns back green
It's not software

It sounds like a bad or loose display cable, refitting the cable might solve your problem, Check youtube to see how to remove the back cover.
John.

Tinderbox (UK) said:
It sounds like a bad or loose display cable, refitting the cable might solve your problem, Check youtube to see how to remove the back cover.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already did, I unplugged all the cables and replugged, it still happen
Is there more cables on the other side of the tablet, bellow the screen?

Tinderbox (UK) said:
It sounds like a bad or loose display cable, refitting the cable might solve your problem, Check youtube to see how to remove the back cover.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you still there?

tugamer101 said:
Are you still there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry at this point you know more than me, the fault could be in the display as you say colour changes when you flex the tablet, I don't know.
John.

Related

Charging is not supported with this accessory?

My iphone background has changed to the annoying "Charging is not supported with this accessory" with the yellow warning triangle and never changes! I tried blowing into it and using a toothbrush to clean it out but no success. When the charger is UNPLUGGED but connected to the phone, my normal wallpaper appears again, but once I disconnect it from the phone, the annoying background shows up again. Help!
There might be some issue with the connector. Just check it once.
jill52nabi said:
There might be some issue with the connector. Just check it once.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, you just check the connector problem. If it can't solve the issue either, you could take it to repair store.
looks like you have some slight water damage to your iphone happen to me when i was cleaning the connectors with some liquid and wipes.............
Airfaire said:
looks like you have some slight water damage to your iphone happen to me when i was cleaning the connectors with some liquid and wipes.............
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes,the water damage my iPhone,now it is normal,thank you .

[Q]What went wrong?

I have a huge problem, basically I was sick and tired of my black housing for the phone, so I ordered the white one from ebay. I was so happy it came that I forgot to shut down the phone, well during half way of the work, while I was trying to pry it open I remembered and turned it on and it worked I opened it a bit more open and it suddenly went black and since then everything is working except the LCD.
I have no idea whats the problem is the LCD broke or what?
Also when it shut down and me trying to reconnect the LCD flat cable to see if thats the problem I was nervous and did that which you see in the picture. Now my issue is what if I buy a new screen connect it and it doesn't work because the FPC connector?
Silthrax said:
I have a huge problem, basically I was sick and tired of my black housing for the phone, so I ordered the white one from ebay. I was so happy it came that I forgot to shut down the phone, well during half way of the work, while I was trying to pry it open I remembered and turned it on and it worked I opened it a bit more open and it suddenly went black and since then everything is working except the LCD.
I have no idea whats the problem is the LCD broke or what?
Also when it shut down and me trying to reconnect the LCD flat cable to see if thats the problem I was nervous and did that which you see in the picture. Now my issue is what if I buy a new screen connect it and it doesn't work because the FPC connector?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The connection pins themselves do not look damaged, on the plastic shroud. The socket should work fine.
It's a little hard to make out fine detail in the pic...take a magnifying glass to it and check for cracks or splits in the pins.
Tigerlight said:
The connection pins themselves do not look damaged, on the plastic shroud. The socket should work fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm it seems like it goes one small one then longer one, its hard to see from he picture but I think two of the longer ones are missing. And what should be the problem with the LCD because that happened before I damaged the socket.
Between thank you for the fast reply.
Silthrax said:
Hmm it seems like it goes one small one then longer one, its hard to see from he picture but I think two of the longer ones are missing. And what should be the problem with the LCD because that happened before I damaged the socket.
Between thank you for the fast reply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I don't see any missing pins, but you'll have a better view.
As for you LCD...no idea. Generally it's a good idea to turn everything off before you open electrical equipment. You could have caused a short in the process of opening it live.
Tigerlight said:
Well I don't see any missing pins, but you'll have a better view.
As for you LCD...no idea. Generally it's a good idea to turn everything off before you open electrical equipment. You could have caused a short in the process of opening it live.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would that be on the motherboard or the LCD, basically should I bother repairing it or just sell it for spare parts thats my issue right now.
Silthrax said:
Would that be on the motherboard or the LCD, basically should I bother repairing it or just sell it for spare parts thats my issue right now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you try to power it on does the vibrate activate...basically does it do everything you'd expect EXCEPT the screen doesn't work or does it do nothing at all?
Tigerlight said:
If you try to power it on does the vibrate activate...basically does it do everything you'd expect EXCEPT the screen doesn't work or does it do nothing at all?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like I said earlier everything works, I can still receive SMS, phone calls (I can answer them since the digitizer works), e-mails, Facebook msgs, vibrations, sound, microphone... Everything works except the LCD.
Silthrax said:
Like I said earlier everything works, I can still receive SMS, phone calls (I can answer them since the digitizer works), e-mails, Facebook msgs, vibrations, sound, microphone... Everything works except the LCD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You might try replacing the LCD and hope you haven't damaged the connector. If you have, a self-repair is unlikely given its size and that of the pins.
Or you dump it and buy a new phone.
Either way it's gonna cost you money. The first is cheaper but may not work.
I think that's your only options.
Yeah I knew from the start it was gonna cost me money, but I wanted the cheapest way out
Thanks a lot for the help I think I am gonna try to fix it. Get some experience while doing it too
Silthrax said:
Yeah I knew from the start it was gonna cost me money, but I wanted the cheapest way out
Thanks a lot for the help I think I am gonna try to fix it. Get some experience while doing it too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey did you ever figure out the connector issue? Same problem

Unit is working but screen is black - OFF

I have a KGL unit with RK3188 quad core CPU and 1024x600 screen.
I was working with custom ROM (made by Malaysk)
I didn't update anything recently.
Suddenly that morning, the screen is black.
I am able to hear the radio, and Bluetooth calls are being transferred through the unit, but the screen is totally black, zip, nada, nothing at all.
Any ideas what could get wrong?
I've had this happen before also. Do you see any boot logo at all?
Dave
I see nothing at all. Black all over the way.No logo
Sent from my A0001 using XDA-Developers mobile app
that is a hardware failure
contact yoru seller
unfortunately, the seller completely ignores my messages.
amir77a said:
unfortunately, the seller completely ignores my messages.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you tried to enter the recovery or it is shows black screen also?
If yes, maybe your display panel is wrong. If you seller ignore your messages, try to check your panel's contact to the board.
Check to see if you can get into recovery. If screen works, turn off lights when in rom. I had issue with auto brightness which was too low. Only way I could fix was to wipe and reinstall and turn off auto brightness.
Just updating... it was a hardware problem.
Flat cable problem + certain transistor.
Thanks for your comments.
How did you figure it out?
Dave
TT_Vert said:
How did you figure it out?
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The buttons were OK, I was able to listen to radio, switch stations (via the wheel control), and even BT calls went through.
That made me guess that this is a hardware problem, and not software.
and no matter what you did you never got video ? Ive got this same problem but after a hard reset Ill get the video back sometimes.
TT_Vert said:
and no matter what you did you never got video ? Ive got this same problem but after a hard reset Ill get the video back sometimes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, I even didn't try to hard reset the unit.
Took it from my technician, and it was working, without any hard reset.
To be precise, I'm going to visit him again tomorrow, since the colors on the screen are a bit on the green side, and a bit smeared.
Not a disaster, but not as it should be.
I guess one of the flat cables inside the unit, is not in its place.
amir77a said:
Actually, I even didn't try to hard reset the unit.
Took it from my technician, and it was working, without any hard reset.
To be precise, I'm going to visit him again tomorrow, since the colors on the screen are a bit on the green side, and a bit smeared.
Not a disaster, but not as it should be.
I guess one of the flat cables inside the unit, is not in its place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did the technician just reseat the cables or was something actually replaced?
jakejm79 said:
Did the technician just reseat the cables or was something actually replaced?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At first replcaed something... the second visit, probably things were a bit loosen up...
amir77a said:
At first replcaed something... the second visit, probably things were a bit loosen up...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any chance you could get details on what was replaced?
I had a similar issue - would lose screen output, it would go either black or white. Touch screen would still work, and radio/BT as well.
Then I'd disconnect the flat cable and reattach it, and it would work for a couple of days. Final solution (it seems) was to hold the flat cable with tape/hot glue!
Thank you, mine just went out again, it was fine for a month or so after reseating all the ribbon cables in the ZIF connectors, I'll do it again tomorrow and try securing them with some tape.
markinhosmrk said:
I had a similar issue - would lose screen output, it would go either black or white. Touch screen would still work, and radio/BT as well.
Then I'd disconnect the flat cable and reattach it, and it would work for a couple of days. Final solution (it seems) was to hold the flat cable with tape/hot glue!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did you reattach the flat cable with the radio on or off please help me because my head unit had became with black screen but the radio function normaly
Same symptoms here, any updates on what to look for? screen isn't even dim, touch works, sound works, it connects to my hotspot, but no visible screen, Witson PX5.
Which transistor ? I have a multimeter handy

New screen causing issues

I got a screen of ebay and put it in, and when I try to boot, nothing shows up. I plugged it into my windows pc and it showed up as the dreaded "qualcomm hs usb qdloader 9008"
I was a bit freaked out and tried everything, and it turns out that the new screen is causing the temporary brick. When I unplugged the screen, the tablet booted up immediately and I could access adb and get a preview of the screen. I only unplugged the digitizer and LCD, not the LCD cable. Is this a faulty screen or something else?
Can you check if it boots with the backlight plug disconnected?
While at it, examine the nearby backlight converter's components for visible signs of failure. Only the converter could bring down entire N7.
k23m said:
Can you check if it boots with the backlight plug disconnected?
While at it, examine the nearby backlight converter's components for visible signs of failure. Only the converter could bring down entire N7.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I will give it a shot today.
k23m said:
Can you check if it boots with the backlight plug disconnected?
While at it, examine the nearby backlight converter's components for visible signs of failure. Only the converter could bring down entire N7.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unplugged backlight and it still shows up as qualcomm download mode, and I shined a flashlight into the screen and still no image.
ethanchow said:
Unplugged backlight and it still shows up as qualcomm download mode, and I shined a flashlight into the screen and still no image.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It looks like you have another N7 and if so, you could do a screen swap to confirm the issue. Also, while off, measure resistance on power track (att.) to the ground. If it differs significantly from the working N7 then you will have additional confirmation.
k23m said:
It looks like you have another N7 and if so, you could do a screen swap to confirm the issue. Also, while off, measure resistance on power track (att.) to the ground. If it differs significantly from the working N7 then you will have additional confirmation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately I don't have another nexus7 to test, that logic board I asked about is the same one . What resistance should I expect?
k23m said:
It looks like you have another N7 and if so, you could do a screen swap to confirm the issue. Also, while off, measure resistance on power track (att.) to the ground. If it differs significantly from the working N7 then you will have additional confirmation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got 13.74 M ohms measuring at the line you mentioned and using a daughterboard screw hole as ground.
ethanchow said:
Unfortunately I don't have another nexus7 to test, that logic board I asked about is the same one . What resistance should I expect?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A power line like that should be in kOhm range when OK and in Ohms when faulty.
ethanchow said:
I got 13.74 M ohms measuring at the line you mentioned and using a daughterboard screw hole as ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does not seem right and is inconclusive. However, if you are absolutely sure that the mobo is OK then the display is faulty anyway.
Incidentally, on your photo I see damaged ferrite of the mobo's inductors used for voltage regulation and they are more worrisome than the red markings. Have you actually seen it working before or you are putting it together from untested eBay parts?
k23m said:
A power line like that should be in kOhm range when OK and in Ohms when faulty.
It does not seem right and is inconclusive. However, if you are absolutely sure that the mobo is OK then the display is faulty anyway.
Incidentally, on your photo I see damaged ferrite of the mobo's inductors used for voltage regulation and they are more worrisome than the red markings. Have you actually seen it working before or you are putting it together from untested eBay parts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It worked for a month or so before I cracked the screen.
ethanchow said:
It worked for a month or so before I cracked the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you are saying the voltage regulators are normally not chipped like that? I know the mobo is good, and I just ordered a new screen.
ethanchow said:
So you are saying the voltage regulators are normally not chipped like that? I know the mobo is good, and I just ordered a new screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, compare them with mine (att.). It probably happened from the pressure when the screen cracked. The inductors' impedance is now lowered but it may still be within operational tolerance. As there is no circuit diagram for our Nexus, it is hard to say if one of them is involved in power supply of the display.
k23m said:
Yes, compare them with mine (att.). It probably happened from the pressure when the screen cracked. The inductors' impedance is now lowered but it may still be within operational tolerance. As there is no circuit diagram for our Nexus, it is hard to say if one of them is involved in power supply of the display.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK. Thanks, is it feasible to replace the inductors? I have a half-decent soldering iron, but no hot air, although I plan to get one soon.
ethanchow said:
OK. Thanks, is it feasible to replace the inductors? I have a half-decent soldering iron, but no hot air, although I plan to get one soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I measured a few things for you in my N7.
the inductors are not involved in the display's power supply because it is connected almost directly to the battery.
the resistance on display's power track is 220kOhm
Please make this easy test:
reconnect everything, including the display
measure battery voltage on pin #1 of the black plug/socket
turn it on and observe the battery's voltage
Has there been a significant voltage fluctuation during turning it on?
k23m said:
I measured a few things for you in my N7.
the inductors are not involved in the display's power supply because it is connected almost directly to the battery.
the resistance on display's power track is 220kOhm
Please make this easy test:
reconnect everything, including the display
measure battery voltage on pin #1 of the black plug/socket
turn it on and observe the battery's voltage
Has there been a significant voltage fluctuation during turning it on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, stays at 3.89-3.9 volts the whole time with both LCD and digitizer, but somehow it now boots successfully with the screen,no more qualcomm dl brick
ethanchow said:
Nope, stays at 3.89-3.9 volts the whole time with both LCD and digitizer, but somehow it now boots successfully with the screen,no more qualcomm dl brick
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's good news. I think your battery is weak or was undercharged before and it could not take the full load of mobo+lcd but it was good enough to boot without lcd.
:highfive:
k23m said:
It's good news. I think your battery is weak or was undercharged before and it could not take the full load of mobo+lcd but it was good enough to boot without lcd.
:highfive:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is still no backlight or image though. I just ordered another screen hopefully this one will fix everything.
k23m said:
It's good news. I think your battery is weak or was undercharged before and it could not take the full load of mobo+lcd but it was good enough to boot without lcd.
:highfive:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I booted up and it seems like no image/backlight is the only problem now, the digitizer works, but there is still no image. Could it be just be a faulty LCD cable? Like the orange one.
ethanchow said:
I booted up and it seems like no image/backlight is the only problem now, the digitizer works, but there is still no image. Could it be just be a faulty LCD cable? Like the orange one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could see cracks in the cable. Perhaps the local image/backlight voltage regulator is finally gone and no longer overloading entire N7.
k23m said:
You could see cracks in the cable. Perhaps the local image/backlight voltage regulator is finally gone and no longer overloading entire N7.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable looks fine, but I haven't got to testing every pin. What do you mean by local image regulator being "gone"
ethanchow said:
What do you mean by local image regulator being "gone"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Note the inductors on LCD PCB; 2 of them are used for image/matrix IC power supply regulators and the larger one is for step-up backlight voltage converter. It seems one of the ICs next to the inductors (the converter most likely) is faulty. Initially it was overloading the battery and resulting in the 9008 mode, but eventually it burnt out when you fully recharged the battery.

Black screen with a lightning volt

Hi, i have a 610G if i recall corectly, was going to charge it, but it fell off my hands, maybe 2 feet high, nothing happened to the phone, screen didint break, but it didnt turn on anymore, i just have this black screen with a little lighning bolt inside a circle and it turns on and off, could go torecovery one time and i did a hard reset, didnt work, could go to download mode ones and flashed identicall firmware than the one installed, didnt work, keeps going on and off and its not charging, could it be that something hardware related could have broken? Any ideas?
Displaced connector, or damaged mobo or jack pcb.
blackhawk said:
Displaced connector, or damaged mobo or jack pcb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, no other choice but to open it up huh
skoopster said:
So, no other choice but to open it up huh
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Corrupted firmware is probably the last probable cause simply because you know it was dropped.
Unless the mobo or a chipset was damage by the G loading it normally won't effect the flash memory retention.
i guess your right, ill open it tomorrow, thanks

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