People who experience lcd problems, check this post! - G3 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

After lots of research, i finally found a solution and the cause of the problem
The dark display/vertical lines/fading is caused by motherboard.(only if the LCD is fresh bought)
After some hours, i found that the solder was "lost" and it must be reflowed!
After you reflowed the solder from the SoC, place thermal paste with Thermal pad in order to keep it fixed and cool.
*Who's the trouble maker?*
The SoC heats up pretty bad. And that's the cause. Using your phone when it's too hot, it makes the solder loose.
Using thermal paste + thermal pad after reflowing will keep the motherboard cool and it will stop the solder to "loose"
*For people who don't have money for reflow"
There's a trick called "Iron Method"
The video is in spanish, but all you have to do is to put the iron at medium (10-15 minutes) or high (5-10 minutes) on the pins.
Video:
https://youtu.be/tAq16lPT9s0
Attention!!!
DO NOT BAKE YOUR MOTHERBOARD!
It's a temporaly fix and it cause harm rather than good.

And how did you reflow?

西村大一 said:
And how did you reflow?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went to a service

Johnny TDN said:
I went to a service
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is the proper way, yes, but for the people who don't have money to go to a service or don't have one in their city, the oven method is still a viable option.

西村大一 said:
That is the proper way, yes, but for the people who don't have money to go to a service or don't have one in their city, the oven method is still a viable option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The oven method is a "live or die" for the motherboard. It either fix it or kill it
There is a method using iron. I used it on mine and it didn't break it. It "healed it" with 10%
Flickering and fade got fixed, as well as black display. If i keep going, it will fix the vertical lines too.
In conclusion , the solder is the fault one.

Both methods sound like just a temporary solution, most useful for getting your data out.
If it works for you, lucky you, but keep in mind this is just a temporary solution.
If it works for you for more than a longer period of time, than you're extremely lucky.

I have the same problem. So what would be a permanent fix solution other than resoldering the cpu to the motherboard?

Babakkardan said:
I have the same problem. So what would be a permanent fix solution other than resoldering the cpu to the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A new motherboard imo

Related

[Q] USB Port Fix Solution

Ok guys I bought an EVO 4G off of ebay and I've fixed everything on the phone except for the wonderful USB port that fell off.
Now it was a pretty clean break so it didn't pull anything off of the board. Since I'm on MetroPCS I can't provision the phone completely without fixing the port.
My question would be this, since I don't have a micro heat gun to heat just this area on the board, do you guys think the oven trick could possibly work on the phone to melt the solder enough and reconnect the usb port?
Would it mess up the camera or anything? Not sure, I need some suggestions to see if this would be a stupid idea, a smart idea, or should I just cut my losses and re-sell?
I need help ladies and gentleman.
IMHO..... Hell No. You are gonna fry your evo.
I wouldn't resell, but get it fixed. I found a place nearby that put an OEM usb port back on my evo for $35. Warranty and all and I am back up good as new. My suggestion is that you find someone with the tools to do it right - otherwise you could lose it all.
Where is the place you found that did it for $35? Is it in South Florida?
As an electronics major, you'd be slapped for suggesting that.
I wouldn't recommend it because it MAY be enough to melt the solder, but other smaller components on the board could fail due to overheating, and the camera would most likely crack or fail completely.
teh roxxorz said:
As an electronics major, you'd be slapped for suggesting that.
I wouldn't recommend it because it MAY be enough to melt the solder, but other smaller components on the board could fail due to overheating, and the camera would most likely crack or fail completely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL yea I figured, but it doesn't hurt to ask cause it does work for computer motherboards
Vyrus69 said:
LOL yea I figured, but it doesn't hurt to ask cause it does work for computer motherboards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I've never heard of that before, but that would in theory work because the components were designed to withstand higher tolerances; that's why the evo will shut off if it gets to roughly 120 degrees [I don't know the exact temperature].
Vyrus69 said:
Where is the place you found that did it for $35? Is it in South Florida?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry no.... SoCal.
As another electronics person its a no, if you put it in the oven, it will fry the camera and such and reflow the solder on the board on all the other components as well, possibly causing even more issues other than just frying the components.
Might have found a solution to the USB port fix.
I'm going to make my own surface mount soldering iron. Since regular soldering irons don't fit in the space, this should by all accounts work flawlessly for this problem.
This should be up and running sometime this week and I'll let everyone know how it comes along, and if it works, I might start up a small side business to fix them lol

[HARDWARE FAULT] Damaged component-need to replace-NEED HELP TO FIND VALUE

Hi guys,
I just have an issue caused by me. When I've opened the phone I've managed to damage one of the components and that cause my vibration motor is not working anymore unfortunately as it is a part of the circuit for it. I'm just about to change it but the problem is I don't know what is the value of that component as I couldn't measure it as it was damaged so much so it wasn't possible to do so.
I would like to ask if is here any1 who can tell me what is the value of that SMD 0402 capacitor ( value in F = farad) - ( see the picture )?
Only problem is if some1 want to check the value it is mean that the capacitor have to be unsolder at 1st to do so. So please, if is here some1 who can do that for me I would really appreciate
Or maybe some1 have the BOM (bill of material) and schemes of HTC One X ? that would help too.
Cheers guys
DAMN! i doubt many people would want to do that mate, bit risky opening it!
Actualy to open the phone is not risky and it is pretty easy.Only thing is to unsolder the cap ad than solder it back that may be tricky and that would need a good SMT experienced person.
I just hope we have some1 like that here (except me lol )
xl VipeR lx said:
DAMN! i doubt many people would want to do that mate, bit risky opening it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
If you get a multimeter and see whether the capacitor is across the power rails if thats the case then more likely it would be a decoupling capacitor that decouples the inductive spikes from the motor when running. I would take a guess that it would be in the order of nanoFarads maybe 100nF.
Even if this component is open circuited that wouldnt stop the motor from working are you sure you haven't put excessive force on the capacitor and it has subsequently levered up the flexible pcb and open circuited a feed i.e. track)from the controller chip that feeds the motor?
For such small work I have a handheld microscope with an inbuilt lcd screen. makes life easier
you need to look more closely in that particular area if theres a minute tear on a corner or 90 degree bend of the flexible mylar pcb
I have checked that under 8x magnifier and I couldn't see any other damage other than that crushed capacitor so I guess it is only that. But to be sure I will check it once again and I look closer on the whole circuit and all the paths
I can't check it at home as I don't have any equip here so I hope I will have some free time at work tomorrow
But thanks fro info, it may help
ikeabuchi said:
If you get a multimeter and see whether the capacitor is across the power rails if thats the case then more likely it would be a decoupling capacitor that decouples the inductive spikes from the motor when running. I would take a guess that it would be in the order of nanoFarads maybe 100nF.
Even if this component is open circuited that wouldnt stop the motor from working are you sure you haven't put excessive force on the capacitor and it has subsequently levered up the flexible pcb and open circuited a feed i.e. track)from the controller chip that feeds the motor?
For such small work I have a handheld microscope with an inbuilt lcd screen. makes life easier
you need to look more closely in that particular area if theres a minute tear on a corner or 90 degree bend of the flexible mylar pcb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
so I've checked the whole circuit for vibration and I haven't found any other fault than that damaged capacitor.
So it have to caused only by this for sure.
So I hope some1 can help me as HTC get back to me they can only repair in their repair center and they will not provide any details about any parts and they can't sell any parts either.
So as usual no help at all from HTC, grrrr...
Their customer service is one of the worst
So no luck at all with HTC customer service as I expected
1st HTC Reply
Thank you for contacting HTC regarding your
My name is Olga and I am a Technical Support Agent for the HTC Written Team.
I understand you are having problems with the vibration on your device and would like to know how much such component would cost.
I am very sorry this has happened and now you are having issues with your device, I have spoke to my supervisor about your query and can confirm that we do not have any rough prices of any of the components for our devices.
The reason for this is that we do not sell the components and use individual parts from different regions. The only thing we can do is book your handset in for repair with us. Please note that if you perform a repair yourself or use a 3rd party repair centre, your warranty with us would be void and in case the phone would need any future repairs, there will be a cost, even if it is a manufacturing fault.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2nd HTC Reply
Thank you for your email.
I am afraid we are not able to view online content, I can not view the links.
In regards to the components, we don't have any information regarding the components on our devices as this is something that is only available at the repair centre. Each device has a part number assigned, this lets the repair centre know which component and type exactly is needed for the repair.
I am sorry we are not able to provide further information regarding this as this is not something available for the public/customers. I have double checked this for you with my supervisor but I am afraid the only thing he advises is to have a look through the Internet for more information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So now there is only hope left for me, some1 can find out that info for me
Have you a feed at the motor? Although if it sees the caps open circuit it may just stop the supply anyway.
That's a resistor isn't it? Not a cap.
I haven't tested the circuit with multimeter in any way but it is a capacitor for sure and not resistor.
SMD resistors have the metal contacts only from top-front-bottom side of the component
SMD capacitors have the metal contacts all way round
There are caps on that circuit, some are black and some grey color .
Only problem is that the caps don't have the value marked on the body as some resistors usually have, but normally bigger than 0402 package, so from 0603 and bigger as on the 0402 and 0201 would be really hard to read anyway
backfromthestorm said:
Have you a feed at the motor? Although if it sees the caps open circuit it may just stop the supply anyway.
That's a resistor isn't it? Not a cap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might be worth getting a meter on it then, while setting it to permanently vibrate somehow.. Sure they're apps for that.
Unless your positive it is that cap, then id just pop it out and take a trip to maplins. I've soldered SM parts on phones before, it's fiddly but its possible. They were 50 quid Nokias mind, not 450 quid htcs. Fine iron, and don't get it to hot.
problem is I couldn't test it as the cap was cracked on half so no way to measure
There is no problem to solder/unsolder for me as I'm experience (work in Electronic manufacture business for some time )
backfromthestorm said:
Might be worth getting a meter on it then, while setting it to permanently vibrate somehow.. Sure they're apps for that.
Unless your positive it is that cap, then id just pop it out and take a trip to maplins. I've soldered SM parts on phones before, it's fiddly but its possible. They were 50 quid Nokias mind, not 450 quid htcs. Fine iron, and don't get it to hot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the SMD package is brown in color then it will be a capacitor. if black with no marking then may be a resistor or an inductor. if it is the latter then that would explain why the motor doesn't vibrate.
rikardo1979 said:
so I've checked the whole circuit for vibration and I haven't found any other fault than that damaged capacitor.
So it have to caused only by this for sure.
So I hope some1 can help me as HTC get back to me they can only repair in their repair center and they will not provide any details about any parts and they can't sell any parts either.
So as usual no help at all from HTC, grrrr...
Their customer service is one of the worst
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Surely you understand that HTC can and will not help customers with voiding the warranty of their phone? They support the devices as they are sold and if you decide to open and break the phone yourself you're basically on your own. Helping out with this issue would be to spend time and money to help a customer who has already agreed that no help will be given. Not to sound harsh, but you can't possibly expect any manufacturer to help out with such an issue?
Your best bet would be to contact a repair centre, not HTC. Regenersis, for example, might be able to tell you what component that is.
They only cost Like 50 p for that capacitor
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
Hi,
Did you manage to get your phone fixed, please give us an update mate.
well, not yet as I still haven't found what component is it.The HTC won't help as I posted before and I haven't found any1 who could.
But as someone mentioned here before that it may be a resistor instead of capacitor, so I've risk it and I just tried to shorten that pads and vibrator is working.
Problem is I still don't know what component should be there and I'm afraid that if I leave it with just a link between that may damage the whole circuit in time.
So it looks I have to live without vibration or send it for repair what I would have to pay for it.
bigoliver said:
Hi,
Did you manage to get your phone fixed, please give us an update mate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
rikardo1979 said:
well, not yet as I still haven't found what component is it.The HTC won't help as I posted before and I haven't found any1 who could.
But as someone mentioned here before that it may be a resistor instead of capacitor, so I've risk it and I just tried to shorten that pads and vibrator is working.
Problem is I still don't know what component should be there and I'm afraid that if I leave it with just a link between that may damage the whole circuit in time.
So it looks I have to live without vibration or send it for repair what I would have to pay for it.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My thread has been getting a lot of hits and HTC are monitoring it and possibly all my posts (I may be a little paranoid). Which I am grateful for as it is great to know that HTC are doing their best to fix the issue and I encourage them to follow my thread.
I will try forwarding this thread to Urban Strata (HTC Rep) and politely ask him if he can help. I will also try asking at HTC for you, I need to ring them next week on Tuesday anyway, maybe I can persuade them to help you, I did help make HTC aware of the WiFi issue and how many people where affected by it, maybe they can answer this thread to help us. I feel sorry for you mate and if I can do anything I will
Don't get your hopes up though and continue trying to find a solution yourself.
<EDIT> I've sent you a PM

Screen flickering fix SUCCESSFUL!!!

Hello everyone,
I've had my G3 D855 which I have been using for 16 months. Bought it brand new on eBay and everything was going well until a month ago when the screen flickering began.
Tried every trick on YouTube or Google but from last week, it got so bad that I'll be lucky to have it working for 5 minutes in 24 hours.
Being a tech enthusiast, I decided to take the bull by the horn. I decided to either end up fixing it or giving it a proper burial.
After careful and logical study of hardware and software, I reached a conclusion that the problem is hardware related.
Which took me to options like ambience sensor, screen connector, battery, processor among others.
Started by eliminating the suspects from the ones easier to handle like battery, inspection of screen connector and flex etc.
SOLUTION
I do recall that many people recorded success with using paper or any other thing to press down the connectors for camera and ambience/proximity sensors (which in turn adds pressure to the big chip at the back(processor).
Since my phone has fallen countless times (at times from a distance), I assumed some components must have partially detached from the motherboard and cause the issue.
So I got a friend's soldering rework station heat gun and soldering paste.
1. Applied paste to the two connectors for the screen as shown on the first image below and reheated them properly then allowed it to cool.
2. Applied paste generously to the main chip(processor) as shown on the second image below and fired it up before letting it also cool down.
Remember that my screen refused to open throughout the day, haven't been able to use it for almost three days. Once I coupled it and started, walah! :laugh:
Not a flicker, not even once and I'm 13 hours still counting but I believe the problem has been fixed (fingers crossed lol) + I used the phone to type and send this.
I advise you try it but be careful not to shift or move the components being heated so as not to displace them and also reach out to as many people as possible cos there are thousands with the issue and I didn't make a video for YouTube as I didn't know it'll work.
So, good luck to you all:good::good::good:
NB:
Just posted a VIDEO https://youtu.be/tP0ds01ML9I
Please if this works for you or someone else, do leave a comment. Also, if you run into any issue(s), let me know so we'll work it out.
Don't know if the moderators can care to make this thread sticky, it's too valuable to be buried down the heap...
So maybe this flickering issue is due to CPU/GPU overheat, thermal paste appliance seems to be a good option... I'll get my hands on a G3's motherboard with this issue and apply this mod. Will post the results :good:
siredux said:
So maybe this flickering issue is due to CPU/GPU overheat, thermal paste appliance seems to be a good option... I'll get my hands on a G3's motherboard with this issue and apply this mod. Will post the results :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not just putting thermal paste but heating the processor back is the key
My advise to those who don't have heat gun or soldering paste is to go to any good technian who has a heat gun in his workshop and let him do it for you. Just show him the places and give him something when he's through. If he's a phone repair person, all the better as he'll know the best technique to apply.
People have had success baking the motherboard in the oven for 10 minutes to fix potential soldering issues with components. At the moment I have used the piece of paper method and it has worked great but will need to use a more permanent method as I plan on selling it.
I've tried the paper method on the adapter near the camera, and, now the display works fine , but my wifi signal strength is lowered. I used to get an excellent signal strength on using wifi at any rooms in my home but now I get excellent signal strength only when I am using wifi near my router.
This sounds very promising and I'm very eager to try this! But I am unfortunately confused, where exactly am I putting the paste on these 3 parts?
Pieddog said:
This sounds very promising and I'm very eager to try this! But I am unfortunately confused, where exactly am I putting the paste on these 3 parts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You'll put the paste over the connectors and the edges where the connectors are soldered to the motherboard then heat.
As for the processor, you put a good amount right on it & as you heat the processor, the paste will melt and drop on the side of the processor to enhance the contact with the motherboard.
ie. You'll put the paste right in the area I circled with red on the attachment pics above.
zayidhs said:
You'll put the paste over the connectors and the edges where the connectors are soldered to the motherboard then heat.
As for the processor, you put a good amount right on it & as you heat the processor, the paste will melt and drop on the side of the processor to enhance the contact with the motherboard.
ie. You'll put the paste right in the area I circled with red on the attachment pics above.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm okay thanks, I'll have to go buy a heat gun, they seem pretty cheap. Hopefully I can get this done over the weekend, will report back
siredux said:
So maybe this flickering issue is due to CPU/GPU overheat, thermal paste appliance seems to be a good option... I'll get my hands on a G3's motherboard with this issue and apply this mod. Will post the results :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out the video
burgess_boy said:
People have had success baking the motherboard in the oven for 10 minutes to fix potential soldering issues with components. At the moment I have used the piece of paper method and it has worked great but will need to use a more permanent method as I plan on selling it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out the video
Pieddog said:
Hmm okay thanks, I'll have to go buy a heat gun, they seem pretty cheap. Hopefully I can get this done over the weekend, will report back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out the video
Salman4701 said:
I've tried the paper method on the adapter near the camera, and, now the display works fine , but my wifi signal strength is lowered. I used to get an excellent signal strength on using wifi at any rooms in my home but now I get excellent signal strength only when I am using wifi near my router.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check out the video
zayidhs said:
Check out the video
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
please share the link to video ??
what video? did anyone try this method tho and it worked or not?
Salman4701 said:
please share the link to video ??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The link is in the post, I added it
Youssef mo7a said:
what video? did anyone try this method tho and it worked or not?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check the link in the post. Only 6 people have tried with 100% success. They all gave me feedback
https://youtu.be/tP0ds01ML9I
i'm going to subscribe this thread for my future references if my G3 does flickering too..
thanks for sharing this useful tips anyway
Sent from my LG G3 F400L using your data connection.
zayidhs said:
Check out the video
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks mate, will do!

Screen flickers randomly

Hi Guys,
I have a problem with my LG G3 - the screen is flickering randomly every few seconds.
I am not sure if this is a software/hardware problem.
If any of you have encountered this problem and can tell me where is the problem / how he solved it, I will very appreciate it.
Edit: I can not add links so I can't show you the video with the problem
Thanks.
Motherboard problem (we are in the same train CJ)
Anyway. The only fix is to replace the motherboard, or to bake it in the microwave
Johnny TDN said:
Motherboard problem (we are in the same train CJ)
Anyway. The only fix is to replace the motherboard, or to bake it in the microwave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean oven, because you will blow up the microwave if you do that. Please, for the love of god, don't talk unless you know what to say. Please.
西村大一 said:
You mean oven, because you will blow up the microwave if you do that. Please, for the love of god, don't talk unless you know what to say. Please.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh. Then how you bake your motherboard in the oven then?
Johnny TDN said:
Oh. Then how you bake your motherboard in the oven then?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On a pan, putting small aluminium foil balls under the motherboard to keep it distanced from the pan, at 182 degrees Celsius for 10 minutes. You must be, excuse the word and no bad intentions, retarded to put metal in a microwave oven.
西村大一 said:
On a pan, putting small aluminium foil balls under the motherboard to keep it distanced from the pan, at 182 degrees Celsius for 10 minutes. You must be, excuse the word and no bad intentions, retarded to put metal in a microwave oven.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My friend told me to bake my motherboard in the microwave :/
Johnny TDN said:
My friend told me to bake my motherboard in the microwave :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh my god. Is he still your friend? Tell me he is not. And is he mentally damaged?
西村大一 said:
Oh my god. Is he still your friend? Tell me he is not. And is he mentally damaged?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was :/
But leave it. But you know what creates this flickering/no display/fade issue?
I still blame the CPU/GPU
Johnny TDN said:
Was :/
But leave it. But you know what creates this flickering/no display/fade issue?
I still blame the CPU/GPU
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I happen to know. The PMIC and the SoC have poor quality solder, and if you heat up the SoC during normal usage, it gets brittle, and on the first impact, the connection gets poor and causes the screen flicker. If you wnt a more in-depth explanation, just ask.
西村大一 said:
I happen to know. The PMIC and the SoC have poor quality solder, and if you heat up the SoC during normal usage, it gets brittle, and on the first impact, the connection gets poor and causes the screen flicker. If you wnt a more in-depth explanation, just ask.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More in-depth explanation and the fix too!!!
Johnny TDN said:
More in-depth explanation and the fix too!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The PMIC and the SoC are BGA parts, so they rely on tiny little balls to come into contact with the traces on the PCB. LG used poor quality lead-free solder which becomes brittle with the heating and cooling down cycles because the Snapdragon gets hot. Very. Like the surface of the sun. And with these contractions, the solder starts to, as said before, become brittle and eventually cracks, making the all important connection go bad. And, as everything goes, the SoC needs power to render the 2K display and to run the 4 cores, at 2.5 GHz. And if the PMIC cant supply this power, it starts bugging out, fading the screen and turning black.
The only fix would be for some skilled repair shop to replace the solder with some good quality solder and make sure it doesn't get affected by the high heat output of the SoC. Or, as a temporary fix, you can just place the motherboard SoC side up on 3 balls of aluminium foil in a pre heated oven at 183 or 185 degrees celsius for 10 minutes, let it cool down and use it carefully, no dropping, no long periods of exposure to heat and so on.
西村大一 said:
The PMIC and the SoC are BGA parts, so they rely on tiny little balls to come into contact with the traces on the PCB. LG used poor quality lead-free solder which becomes brittle with the heating and cooling down cycles because the Snapdragon gets hot. Very. Like the surface of the sun. And with these contractions, the solder starts to, as said before, become brittle and eventually cracks, making the all important connection go bad. And, as everything goes, the SoC needs power to render the 2K display and to run the 4 cores, at 2.5 GHz. And if the PMIC cant supply this power, it starts bugging out, fading the screen and turning black.
The only fix would be for some skilled repair shop to replace the solder with some good quality solder and make sure it doesn't get affected by the high heat output of the SoC. Or, as a temporary fix, you can just place the motherboard SoC side up on 3 balls of aluminium foil in a pre heated oven at 183 or 185 degrees celsius for 10 minutes, let it cool down and use it carefully, no dropping, no long periods of exposure to heat and so on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you send me a picture with the solder part of the motherboard?
Johnny TDN said:
Can you send me a picture with the solder part of the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately i don't own a microscope, and don't intend to buy one. Let me give you a picture of what i am trying to tell you. Give me an hour or so.
西村大一 said:
Unfortunately i don't own a microscope, and don't intend to buy one. Let me give you a picture of what i am trying to tell you. Give me an hour or so.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait. The solder part can be found on the display and touch screen connectors?
Johnny TDN said:
Wait. The solder part can be found on the display and touch screen connectors?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, but it is not the defect. The connectors are not the problem here. The current doesn't get to the SoC, the connections to the display are fine.
西村大一 said:
Yes, but it is not the defect. The connectors are not the problem here. The current doesn't get to the SoC, the connections to the display are fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So how i can permament fix it?
Johnny TDN said:
So how i can permament fix it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't read, do you? Or are you ignorant? There is no permanent fix unless you own a few tens of thousands of dollars worth of equipment and micro soldering knowledge.
西村大一 said:
You don't read, do you? Or are you ignorant? There is no permanent fix unless you own a few tens of thousands of dollars worth of equipment and micro soldering knowledge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can go to a local service!
But i want to know 100%...because i don:t like wasting my money :/
Johnny TDN said:
I can go to a local service!
But i want to know 100%...because i don:t like wasting my money :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it will not fix your phone totally. But if they know what they're doing, they will temporarily fix it.
西村大一 said:
No, it will not fix your phone totally. But if they know what they're doing, they will temporarily fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You said earlier that replacing the solder will permament fix my problem.

G3(D855) Blue screen error

I went to my technician already twice but the blue screen keeps coming back. I need to go back every week as the technician heats the soc with some paste I suppose. After one day of usage it goes back to blue screen then the phones becomes dead. Is there any fix for this? :crying:
Thank you for the help guys.
Replace the motherboard or heat it up with a iron
Motherboard is quite expensive. Do I need to put thermal pads as this heating method seems to fix the error temporarily.
Hiyaslalabs said:
Motherboard is quite expensive. Do I need to put thermal pads as this heating method seems to fix the error temporarily.
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Yes definitely try putting thermal pads or plastic. Heating the motherboard is only a final temporary solution, most useful for just backing up data off the device.
engmia said:
Yes definitely try putting thermal pads or plastic. Heating the motherboard is only a final temporary solution, most useful for just backing up data off the device.
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So if I put a thermal pad how long would the device work?Thanks
Hiyaslalabs said:
So if I put a thermal pad how long would the device work?Thanks
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I don't know.
It might work for a long period of time, it might not.
If it works you can hope for the best and if you want to prolong the life of the phone, make sure you are not stressing the phone and using it while overheated.
engmia said:
I don't know.
It might work for a long period of time, it might not.
If it works you can hope for the best and if you want to prolong the life of the phone, make sure you are not stressing the phone and using it while overheated.
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One thing I noticed also when I did the paper trick by putting a piece of paper on the left side of the camera the phone works for awhile too. Any reason for this why it works?
Hiyaslalabs said:
One thing I noticed also when I did the paper trick by putting a piece of paper on the left side of the camera the phone works for awhile too. Any reason for this why it works?
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The problem is caused by bad quality solder and a phone that tends to go very hot. If you use your phone often while hot, the bad quality solder with the chip mess up after a while and causes you to lose connection.
The pressure you're putting with the paper clip or plastic helps restore the connection by pressing on the chip.
Thermal pad is best since it helps with the cooling also. Avoid metal since they conduct electricity and might interfere with the radio signals.

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