Develop Bugs

How to replace the data port

Hey guys-- got back from the t-mobile store and they told me the data port is dead (from water damage). It turns on with a fresh battery fine, but apparently I'm getting an error code. That code is probably that the data port is messed up because I can't charge my battery. I'm assuming I have to replace it. Does anyone know of a video tutorial or something that will show me how to do it?
thanks.

the chances of the data port being physically damaged by water is very slim- I think they are trying to tell you the circuitry is faulty. If you had ripped the charger out and bent or broke the port, then I could see it- but water cannot bend or break that way and corrosion is unlikely unless its been sitting a while.
Back to the original subject though, I just replaced a faulty USB port on my friends Moto Q. It wasnt bad, but you need a very small pencil iron (I use a station) and good eyes, otherwise you will bridge the tiny connections and be fubar'd.

gospeed.racer said:
the chances of the data port being physically damaged by water is very slim- I think they are trying to tell you the circuitry is faulty. If you had ripped the charger out and bent or broke the port, then I could see it- but water cannot bend or break that way and corrosion is unlikely unless its been sitting a while.
Back to the original subject though, I just replaced a faulty USB port on my friends Moto Q. It wasnt bad, but you need a very small pencil iron (I use a station) and good eyes, otherwise you will bridge the tiny connections and be fubar'd.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you find the port to replace it with...

find a bricked one on ebay or something..or someone selling one with a cracked screen etc...use it for parts

welp, i've never soldered... guess you gotta learn sometime. ports are bout 25 bucks... Guess I have a new hobby. Or maybe I should just buy an external battery charger... soldering sounds more fun though. Yeah, what i meant by getting an error code is when i plug in the charging cord into the cell phone, I get a red light instead of yellow/orange. But, I have to push up on the cable where i insert it into the port to get anything. So, its not dead, but either dying or drunk....... drunk from oil.... which it swam in... and got sick from. vegetable oil, not motor oil... which would be a waste of oil. Anyways, thanks for the replies and if you stumble upon a vid for the dash, please post it. I found some on blackberries, but not an excaliber.

sorry browser problem (double posted)

my friend sourced his usb port from Mouser (P/N 538-67503-1020) for $1.12 each. I still have one (he got a spare) but I dont have a dash to take apart and compare the pins. I assume they are all the same generic port, but the pin spacing could differ
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=7zcQ9RRVJlhHWuXYKEhKMg==

that's pretty sweet speed. I bookmarked that webpage (dunno why really). I could just always link from here; but anyway, I received a new battery that I ordered before the geniouses at t-mobile told me that a red light is an error code, my old battery is perfectly fine, my data port is broken, and no... a new battery won't fix it. *** what's my point you ask?***
They don't know jack fecal matter. I just popped in the new battery and 1) my phone turned on, 2) my charging light turned orange, 3) my plug doesn't need adjusting to charge the phone, and just now 4) my phone has signaled to my through a pretty green light that the new battery just finished charging.
So, to recap, the guys at t-mobile said my port was fried and that all my problems were due to that. My theory was that oil (and come to find out water) damage caused the battery to malfunction and thereby refused to allow a current to charge it resulting in the errors. Turns out, I was right.
Thanks speed and all for your replies. If I need a cheap miniusb port in the future, I now have a good source. Now, Anyone know if a new lcd will fix the splotchy marks on my screen (look like dark puddle spots). I'll post a pic in a new post in a minute.

Yah you can grab a new LCD off ebay (fairly cheap) and then go to youtube and youtube "fix dash screen" and there is a tutorial on there that will guide you on replacing your screen.

just make sure its the lcd thats the problem- the outer clear part that you can touch is separate, and comes with the case. Mine are scratched to hell on both my Dash's but I refuse to buy new cases to fix them

i dunno what's up anymore
I don't know what to think of this thing anymore. This morning it wouldn't turn on, even though I had the green light on the device as it was plugged in all night. So, I kept fiddling with it hoping it would turn on so I could have ATT do a remote hard reset. Well... it wouldn't cooperate. So, I left it alone. Then this evening I was about ready to bury it and I tried the power button one last time and it turned on. But, the battery was really low and I got the red light again when I plugged it in. I guess the battery got a bit of a charge in itself just sitting there. So, perhaps the t-mobile guys do know what they're talking about. Well... i did actually get the orange light while it was on for that sweet minute, which should mean its charging, but I guess its not actually charging the battery. I suppose the last way to go is external charger. I'll probably pick one up off ebay for 15 bucks.

[Q] DHD booting, but no display activity. How to repair?

Hi all. In need of a bit of advice here. Hope this is in the right forum.
My beloved DHD has suffered from one too many falls. Despite being protected in an Otterbox Commuter case, he now lies on his deathbed. Even though I was considering an upgrade, I'm thinking I might want to stretch out his life for as long as possible instead. So I've come here to ask for repair advice.
- The phone seems structurally sound from the outside, no damage besides minor aesthetic scratches from before the phone was protected by the Otterbox.
- It appears to boot. Makes the vibration noise etc. Heck the alarm even went off the other morning, at the set time of 0630.
- Screen does not function at all. Lifeless. But not broken in any way externally. Because of this, had to pull the battery to shut the alarm off.
- When plugged in to charge, charging light indicator does not illuminate.
Any ideas?

Sent from my nipple running windows 95 NT.

Cheers, although I'm gonna try a different approach for now.
Any ideas? Can anyone point me in the right direction of some advice?

Sounds like 2 things. Broken lcd and a broken charging port. It wouldn't be worth repairing. You could buy one second hand on ebay for aboot £120.
Sent from my nipple running windows 95 NT.

Thanks for that. Considering trying to sell it broken, for parts. Only thing that concerns me is any sensitive data that may be readily accessed by someone who knows how to get to it.
Is there a way to wipe it?

You could use another dhd with the same firmware and copy the key/button presses and reset it in bootloader mode.
Sent from my laser emitting mammary glands.

Could also be that the connector for the screen has been dislodged due to being drop to many times you mite try opening it up and see if it is that.

lincolnep said:
Could also be that the connector for the screen has been dislodged due to being drop to many times you mite try opening it up and see if it is that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for the response. So I assume you're referring to this part here?
http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-desire-hd-lcd-screen-fpc-connector/
Seen in this disassembly video from the 3:05 minute mark?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfatoeWbMRk

bump...

I have a problem similar to yours. But in my case, I'd turned the phone off to go to the cinema and the LCD and touch never turned on again.
In order to erase your data, did you try overwriting a stock rom? (In case it's just the charging LED that is broken)

That sucks! Self detonating phone. Does yours still vibrate and 'turn on'?
Haven't actually managed to clear the data. I'm ordering this part here (http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-desire-hd-lcd-screen-fpc-connector/) and I'm going to attempt to pull it apart and fix it.
If I can get it to work again I'll sell the One V I'm using and go back to the old faithful!

Well this saves me from starting a new thread haha
Anyway i am having the exact same problem as you have.
My dad brought home a Desire HD from work wich was not working so i am trying to fix it.
The phone boots, it vibrates ones and after a minute it makes the boot sound.
But nothing responses and the lights wont turn on.
Also no charging light..
Also it does not charge but usb does connect.
Could this be the FPC connector or the screen?

Hmmm...interesting, exact same issue as mine.
Well, I've ordered the FPC connector replacement part I linked above...going to attempt to play around with it when it arrives and see if I can breathe new life into the phone. So I can tell you how that goes...
Although:
1. Would the charging light and screen problem be connected? Is this feasible? Or does it suggest something else is likely shot?
2. I believe the FPC connector requires a solder to replace. This could be a bit ambitious on my part to attempt to repair...any ideas on what sort of a solder would be suitable?
Sent from my HTC One V using xda premium

suitup said:
Hmmm...interesting, exact same issue as mine.
Well, I've ordered the FPC connector replacement part I linked above...going to attempt to play around with it when it arrives and see if I can breathe new life into the phone. So I can tell you how that goes...
Although:
1. Would the charging light and screen problem be connected? Is this feasible? Or does it suggest something else is likely shot?
2. I believe the FPC connector requires a solder to replace. This could be a bit ambitious on my part to attempt to repair...any ideas on what sort of a solder would be suitable?
Sent from my HTC One V using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no clean flux core solder would work best, preferably something very thin (about .015"). A small bottle of noclean flux would also help and you probably will need lead free solder as that is likely what they used on the board to begin with, and lead and leadfree dont typically mix as well.

Thanks for the quick reply...
Something like this?
http://www.oritech.com.au/productDetail.aspx?productID=23244
What sort of iron would be suited? Would any of these suit?
http://www.oritech.com.au/categories.aspx?categoryID=321
Would you say it'd be a difficult process? I've soldered before, but a that was a while ago in high school...
Also the cost of all this equipment will far outweigh the cost of the $3 FPC connector spare!

suitup said:
Thanks for the quick reply...
Something like this?
http://www.oritech.com.au/productDetail.aspx?productID=23244
What sort of iron would be suited? Would any of these suit?
http://www.oritech.com.au/categories.aspx?categoryID=321
Would you say it'd be a difficult process? I've soldered before, but a that was a while ago in high school...
Also the cost of all this equipment will far outweigh the cost of the $3 FPC connector spare!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, those should both work fine. ya it is costly for equipment. i have a edsyn iron i use at home and solder i get from work. i would say it can be tricky, i havent seen the connector but im sure its similar to other inline ribbon connectors. remember, short burst soldering, heating it for too long will take the pad off the pcb, and repairing THAT can become very difficult.

suitup said:
Hmmm...interesting, exact same issue as mine.
Well, I've ordered the FPC connector replacement part I linked above...going to attempt to play around with it when it arrives and see if I can breathe new life into the phone. So I can tell you how that goes...
Although:
1. Would the charging light and screen problem be connected? Is this feasible? Or does it suggest something else is likely shot?
2. I believe the FPC connector requires a solder to replace. This could be a bit ambitious on my part to attempt to repair...any ideas on what sort of a solder would be suitable?
Sent from my HTC One V using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. We have a spare DHD with broken glass here wich my sister is using unter her SGS is back from repair. Will swap the motherboard when her phone is back.
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium

[HARDWARE FAULT] Damaged component-need to replace-NEED HELP TO FIND VALUE

Hi guys,
I just have an issue caused by me. When I've opened the phone I've managed to damage one of the components and that cause my vibration motor is not working anymore unfortunately as it is a part of the circuit for it. I'm just about to change it but the problem is I don't know what is the value of that component as I couldn't measure it as it was damaged so much so it wasn't possible to do so.
I would like to ask if is here any1 who can tell me what is the value of that SMD 0402 capacitor ( value in F = farad) - ( see the picture )?
Only problem is if some1 want to check the value it is mean that the capacitor have to be unsolder at 1st to do so. So please, if is here some1 who can do that for me I would really appreciate
Or maybe some1 have the BOM (bill of material) and schemes of HTC One X ? that would help too.
Cheers guys

DAMN! i doubt many people would want to do that mate, bit risky opening it!

Actualy to open the phone is not risky and it is pretty easy.Only thing is to unsolder the cap ad than solder it back that may be tricky and that would need a good SMT experienced person.
I just hope we have some1 like that here (except me lol )
xl VipeR lx said:
DAMN! i doubt many people would want to do that mate, bit risky opening it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium

If you get a multimeter and see whether the capacitor is across the power rails if thats the case then more likely it would be a decoupling capacitor that decouples the inductive spikes from the motor when running. I would take a guess that it would be in the order of nanoFarads maybe 100nF.
Even if this component is open circuited that wouldnt stop the motor from working are you sure you haven't put excessive force on the capacitor and it has subsequently levered up the flexible pcb and open circuited a feed i.e. track)from the controller chip that feeds the motor?
For such small work I have a handheld microscope with an inbuilt lcd screen. makes life easier
you need to look more closely in that particular area if theres a minute tear on a corner or 90 degree bend of the flexible mylar pcb

I have checked that under 8x magnifier and I couldn't see any other damage other than that crushed capacitor so I guess it is only that. But to be sure I will check it once again and I look closer on the whole circuit and all the paths
I can't check it at home as I don't have any equip here so I hope I will have some free time at work tomorrow
But thanks fro info, it may help
ikeabuchi said:
If you get a multimeter and see whether the capacitor is across the power rails if thats the case then more likely it would be a decoupling capacitor that decouples the inductive spikes from the motor when running. I would take a guess that it would be in the order of nanoFarads maybe 100nF.
Even if this component is open circuited that wouldnt stop the motor from working are you sure you haven't put excessive force on the capacitor and it has subsequently levered up the flexible pcb and open circuited a feed i.e. track)from the controller chip that feeds the motor?
For such small work I have a handheld microscope with an inbuilt lcd screen. makes life easier
you need to look more closely in that particular area if theres a minute tear on a corner or 90 degree bend of the flexible mylar pcb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium

so I've checked the whole circuit for vibration and I haven't found any other fault than that damaged capacitor.
So it have to caused only by this for sure.
So I hope some1 can help me as HTC get back to me they can only repair in their repair center and they will not provide any details about any parts and they can't sell any parts either.
So as usual no help at all from HTC, grrrr...
Their customer service is one of the worst

So no luck at all with HTC customer service as I expected
1st HTC Reply
Thank you for contacting HTC regarding your
My name is Olga and I am a Technical Support Agent for the HTC Written Team.
I understand you are having problems with the vibration on your device and would like to know how much such component would cost.
I am very sorry this has happened and now you are having issues with your device, I have spoke to my supervisor about your query and can confirm that we do not have any rough prices of any of the components for our devices.
The reason for this is that we do not sell the components and use individual parts from different regions. The only thing we can do is book your handset in for repair with us. Please note that if you perform a repair yourself or use a 3rd party repair centre, your warranty with us would be void and in case the phone would need any future repairs, there will be a cost, even if it is a manufacturing fault.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2nd HTC Reply
Thank you for your email.
I am afraid we are not able to view online content, I can not view the links.
In regards to the components, we don't have any information regarding the components on our devices as this is something that is only available at the repair centre. Each device has a part number assigned, this lets the repair centre know which component and type exactly is needed for the repair.
I am sorry we are not able to provide further information regarding this as this is not something available for the public/customers. I have double checked this for you with my supervisor but I am afraid the only thing he advises is to have a look through the Internet for more information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So now there is only hope left for me, some1 can find out that info for me

Have you a feed at the motor? Although if it sees the caps open circuit it may just stop the supply anyway.
That's a resistor isn't it? Not a cap.

I haven't tested the circuit with multimeter in any way but it is a capacitor for sure and not resistor.
SMD resistors have the metal contacts only from top-front-bottom side of the component
SMD capacitors have the metal contacts all way round
There are caps on that circuit, some are black and some grey color .
Only problem is that the caps don't have the value marked on the body as some resistors usually have, but normally bigger than 0402 package, so from 0603 and bigger as on the 0402 and 0201 would be really hard to read anyway
backfromthestorm said:
Have you a feed at the motor? Although if it sees the caps open circuit it may just stop the supply anyway.
That's a resistor isn't it? Not a cap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Might be worth getting a meter on it then, while setting it to permanently vibrate somehow.. Sure they're apps for that.
Unless your positive it is that cap, then id just pop it out and take a trip to maplins. I've soldered SM parts on phones before, it's fiddly but its possible. They were 50 quid Nokias mind, not 450 quid htcs. Fine iron, and don't get it to hot.

problem is I couldn't test it as the cap was cracked on half so no way to measure
There is no problem to solder/unsolder for me as I'm experience (work in Electronic manufacture business for some time )
backfromthestorm said:
Might be worth getting a meter on it then, while setting it to permanently vibrate somehow.. Sure they're apps for that.
Unless your positive it is that cap, then id just pop it out and take a trip to maplins. I've soldered SM parts on phones before, it's fiddly but its possible. They were 50 quid Nokias mind, not 450 quid htcs. Fine iron, and don't get it to hot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

If the SMD package is brown in color then it will be a capacitor. if black with no marking then may be a resistor or an inductor. if it is the latter then that would explain why the motor doesn't vibrate.

rikardo1979 said:
so I've checked the whole circuit for vibration and I haven't found any other fault than that damaged capacitor.
So it have to caused only by this for sure.
So I hope some1 can help me as HTC get back to me they can only repair in their repair center and they will not provide any details about any parts and they can't sell any parts either.
So as usual no help at all from HTC, grrrr...
Their customer service is one of the worst
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Surely you understand that HTC can and will not help customers with voiding the warranty of their phone? They support the devices as they are sold and if you decide to open and break the phone yourself you're basically on your own. Helping out with this issue would be to spend time and money to help a customer who has already agreed that no help will be given. Not to sound harsh, but you can't possibly expect any manufacturer to help out with such an issue?
Your best bet would be to contact a repair centre, not HTC. Regenersis, for example, might be able to tell you what component that is.

They only cost Like 50 p for that capacitor
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium

Hi,
Did you manage to get your phone fixed, please give us an update mate.

well, not yet as I still haven't found what component is it.The HTC won't help as I posted before and I haven't found any1 who could.
But as someone mentioned here before that it may be a resistor instead of capacitor, so I've risk it and I just tried to shorten that pads and vibrator is working.
Problem is I still don't know what component should be there and I'm afraid that if I leave it with just a link between that may damage the whole circuit in time.
So it looks I have to live without vibration or send it for repair what I would have to pay for it.
bigoliver said:
Hi,
Did you manage to get your phone fixed, please give us an update mate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium

rikardo1979 said:
well, not yet as I still haven't found what component is it.The HTC won't help as I posted before and I haven't found any1 who could.
But as someone mentioned here before that it may be a resistor instead of capacitor, so I've risk it and I just tried to shorten that pads and vibrator is working.
Problem is I still don't know what component should be there and I'm afraid that if I leave it with just a link between that may damage the whole circuit in time.
So it looks I have to live without vibration or send it for repair what I would have to pay for it.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My thread has been getting a lot of hits and HTC are monitoring it and possibly all my posts (I may be a little paranoid). Which I am grateful for as it is great to know that HTC are doing their best to fix the issue and I encourage them to follow my thread.
I will try forwarding this thread to Urban Strata (HTC Rep) and politely ask him if he can help. I will also try asking at HTC for you, I need to ring them next week on Tuesday anyway, maybe I can persuade them to help you, I did help make HTC aware of the WiFi issue and how many people where affected by it, maybe they can answer this thread to help us. I feel sorry for you mate and if I can do anything I will
Don't get your hopes up though and continue trying to find a solution yourself.
<EDIT> I've sent you a PM

[Q] Galaxy Nexus Volume button problem

Hi everyone,
I am new (noob) user of XDA Deceloppers. If this thread is posted in the wrong category, I'm sorry but I did not know which one to chose D:.
To start, I have a Galaxy Nexus GSM. It is rooted. Stock ROM and stock Kernel.
It is running an OTA 4.1.1 Jelly Bean.
I recently installed a Skinomi wet applicated screen protector on my Gnex. I watched a lot of videos on how to apply wet applicated screen protectors. I am very prudent with applying those stuff. I followed all Skinomi's instructions. I know I did everything right. After applying it, I waited two full days (48 hours) before booting my Gnex back up.
Now, the problem. My volume button is getting weird. Pressing down is flawless, but when I press up, it works only 1/2. The rest works fine. I dont know why it gets like that.
The second problem. I have all the accessories that came with the phone, but not the receipt. I bought it used...
I emailed Skinomi and the seller for help, but no reply up to date.
I love this phone but... this problem is pretty annoying.
Please help me!

Water and phones are not good together.
Sent from my Xoom using xda premium

Winesnob said:
Water and phones are not good together.
Sent from my Xoom using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I knew that, but after reading a lot of success from others, I wanted to try. This would be my lastvl time with wet screen protectors. Too much to worry for it, and its expensive. Any solution guys?

tonytober said:
Yeah, I knew that, but after reading a lot of success from others, I wanted to try. This would be my lastvl time with wet screen protectors. Too much to worry for it, and its expensive. Any solution guys?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
See if you can take the battery out and leave the phone in a ziplock bag packed with rice for a few days.
Or you can try taking the battery out and using a hair dryer to blow hot air into the volume rocker.
Was this a full body protection kit or just the screen? A ton of people have had issues with the power button and volume rocker after applying a wet screen protector, and I have no idea why these companies don't tell you to cover both with a piece of tape or something before hand, as water getting into the crevices of the device is never a good thing.

MMcCraryNJ said:
See if you can take the battery out and leave the phone in a ziplock bag packed with rice for a few days.
Or you can try taking the battery out and using a hair dryer to blow hot air into the volume rocker.
Was this a full body protection kit or just the screen? A ton of people have had issues with the power button and volume rocker after applying a wet screen protector, and I have no idea why these companies don't tell you to cover both with a piece of tape or something before hand, as water getting into the crevices of the device is never a good thing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for a fast response
I will try to put my phone in rice, because hairdryer might be too strong.
Its a screen only protector.
They never told me to tape the buttons! What a good idea.
What would be the worst solution if everything fails?
Is replacing the volume flex hard?
Im so scared!!! I love my phone so much. :'( please help me!!!!

Same thing has been happening with my phone for 6 or so months now. Spilled a small amount of water on my phone. Wiped it off and everything works fine but the volume up button is very finicky, not a huge problem just have to tap up 2 or 3 times sometimes to get the volume on.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Still using your phone like that?
I really respect you as you can use your phone like that. I just can't stand it. Help!

My recent move
I just bought a new flex volume cable off ebay (cannot link yet, don't have the permission). The seller is 123phone.
I am pretty sure that the cable is damaged, and 5$ is worth a try. Does anyone here tried to solder it? It will be my first time soldering a flex cable, but I have already dont some soldering before. Any tips for the replacement of the flex cable?
Thanks for helping guys. I'm really stressed :S

tonytober, I have the exact same issue, only the volume up rocker and it intermittently works.
Did you try to install the flex volume cable, did it work?
tonytober said:
I just bought a new flex volume cable off ebay (cannot link yet, don't have the permission). The seller is 123phone.
I am pretty sure that the cable is damaged, and 5$ is worth a try. Does anyone here tried to solder it? It will be my first time soldering a flex cable, but I have already dont some soldering before. Any tips for the replacement of the flex cable?
Thanks for helping guys. I'm really stressed :S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Winesnob said:
Water and phones are not good together.
Sent from my Xoom using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well my phone got wet and was laying in water for a day or so ( Just a little pool) And i just waited for a week or something and then it started and everything worked so water + gnex = Nothing bad, but nothing good

Please read forum rules before posting
Questions go in Q&A
Thread moved
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Friendly Neighborhood Moderator

baruf12 said:
tonytober, I have the exact same issue, only the volume up rocker and it intermittently works.
Did you try to install the flex volume cable, did it work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for a late reply. Yes I replaced the flex cable and now it works fine.
I will never buy a wet screen protector anymore. Worriness for nothing!
Replacing the flex is not that hard and can be found on eBay for under 8$ so it was pretty fine for me.

tonytober said:
Sorry for a late reply. Yes I replaced the flex cable and now it works fine.
I will never buy a wet screen protector anymore. Worriness for nothing!
Replacing the flex is not that hard and can be found on eBay for under 8$ so it was pretty fine for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Tonytober,
I also need to replace mine but have never soldered before. Can you advise how you did it and what tools i would need? is it just the 3 soldering points? i saw the volume flex cable is cheap enough on ebay, its the soldering im worried about!
Thanks
DC

dcsworld said:
Hi Tonytober,
I also need to replace mine but have never soldered before. Can you advise how you did it and what tools i would need? is it just the 3 soldering points? i saw the volume flex cable is cheap enough on ebay, its the soldering im worried about!
Thanks
DC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Soldering is not hard unless you shake a lot. Lol!
For soldering, you need a soldering iron, some lead and your brain (actually, just be careful not to burn yourself).
Sold soldering promoter could help (it's a paste that you could put on the phone to help the lead stick on the phone)
Watch out to not let the iron on the phone too long (stop soldering every 10 seconds lets suppose, rest 10 sec, solder 10 sec) as you don't want to damage your logic board to repair an 8$ ribbon! :laugh:
So yeah.
Open the soldering iron, let it heat up (2 minutes to be safe and chill)
-Heat up the spots where you have to solder on the Gnex's board (3-5 seconds)
-Apply some paste with a Q-tip or a toothpick on the heated spot on the Gnex's board
-Here's a tricky part: use BOTH hands for this (only "hard" part which is not hard, just be careful to not use too much lead):
One hand holds the soldering iron and apply heat on Gnex's board, while the soldering iron's tip is STILL on the Gnex's board, with the OTHER hand, apply lead DIRECTLY on the spot where you need to bond the ribbon-board with the lead. Just put enough that it sticks.
**Tip: When the liquid lead between the ribbon+board (where you soldered) hides the space between them (like glueing paper), blow on the liquid lead. It will make it bond one shot and Voila, it is done.
Just do it nice and slow if it is your first time. The only dangers:
-Don't burn yourself, don't kill yourself. I'm not responsible for any injuries, or Death. ...
-Don't burn the Logic Board (like I told you, 10 seconds solder, 10 seconds cooldown...)
-Don't oversolder (If you boot up with oversolder you might bond two connections and short your phone's Logic board and... your phone will RIP.
In case if you oversolder, don't panic, lead is like a magnet to the iron. Just take your soldering iron and heat up the lead. The iron will suck it up.
After that, take a damp cloth and wipe the soldering iron's tip. Don't burn yourself!!!
When everything's done, before you mount your phone, test it. Don't waste your time screwing and unscrewing the phone
If the phone works, clean the soldering iron's tip with a damp cloth when it is still warm-hot.
If the phone works, ENJOY!!!!!!!!
Hope it helps. Keep me updated with your phone.
Nexus lover, Tony

tonytober said:
Soldering is not hard unless you shake a lot. Lol!
For soldering, you need a soldering iron, some lead and your brain (actually, just be careful not to burn yourself).
Sold soldering promoter could help (it's a paste that you could put on the phone to help the lead stick on the phone)
Watch out to not let the iron on the phone too long (stop soldering every 10 seconds lets suppose, rest 10 sec, solder 10 sec) as you don't want to damage your logic board to repair an 8$ ribbon! :laugh:
So yeah.
Open the soldering iron, let it heat up (2 minutes to be safe and chill)
-Heat up the spots where you have to solder on the Gnex's board (3-5 seconds)
-Apply some paste with a Q-tip or a toothpick on the heated spot on the Gnex's board
-Here's a tricky part: use BOTH hands for this (only "hard" part which is not hard, just be careful to not use too much lead):
One hand holds the soldering iron and apply heat on Gnex's board, while the soldering iron's tip is STILL on the Gnex's board, with the OTHER hand, apply lead DIRECTLY on the spot where you need to bond the ribbon-board with the lead. Just put enough that it sticks.
**Tip: When the liquid lead between the ribbon+board (where you soldered) hides the space between them (like glueing paper), blow on the liquid lead. It will make it bond one shot and Voila, it is done.
Just do it nice and slow if it is your first time. The only dangers:
-Don't burn yourself, don't kill yourself. I'm not responsible for any injuries, or Death. ...
-Don't burn the Logic Board (like I told you, 10 seconds solder, 10 seconds cooldown...)
-Don't oversolder (If you boot up with oversolder you might bond two connections and short your phone's Logic board and... your phone will RIP.
In case if you oversolder, don't panic, lead is like a magnet to the iron. Just take your soldering iron and heat up the lead. The iron will suck it up.
After that, take a damp cloth and wipe the soldering iron's tip. Don't burn yourself!!!
When everything's done, before you mount your phone, test it. Don't waste your time screwing and unscrewing the phone
If the phone works, clean the soldering iron's tip with a damp cloth when it is still warm-hot.
If the phone works, ENJOY!!!!!!!!
Hope it helps. Keep me updated with your phone.
Nexus lover, Tony
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for the advice. It gives me more confidence to try it. Really annoyed that i didnt notice the volume cable was soldered onto the main board, i was following the wrong youtube video which was disassembling a different nexus variation
I'm glad you mentioned that the lead is applied to the soldering point, i always thought the a bit of lead was first melted onto the iron and then transferred onto the soldering point.
I'll give it a shot once i have all the parts and update the thread on the results
Thanks
DC

dcsworld said:
Thanks a lot for the advice. It gives me more confidence to try it. Really annoyed that i didnt notice the volume cable was soldered onto the main board, i was following the wrong youtube video which was disassembling a different nexus variation
I'm glad you mentioned that the lead is applied to the soldering point, i always thought the a bit of lead was first melted onto the iron and then transferred onto the soldering point.
I'll give it a shot once i have all the parts and update the thread on the results
Thanks
DC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem at all. The Gnex should rather be fixed than be thrown away, auch a good phone
Tell me when you did it! Hope you get it fixed soon. If something goes wrong or you have any questions, ask!!! Xda'a here for that.
Tony

I finally got round to attempting this and it ended up a failure
First of all i noticed i only had 2 soldering points (metal bits) on the main pcb board (the middle one was missing) and the new volume cable had 3, so the middle one must have been pulled off with the old volume cable, Anyway, i decided to go ahead and try soldering the 2 outer connections.
1st attempt, i managed to make the 2 connections, although it looked very messy. Tested them and the volume down button was working! unfortunately the volume up button was not. So i heated the iron up again and attempted to apply more solder to the connections hoping this would improve the connection. Result: both buttons not working! the whole area is black now on both the main board and the volume cable, so i must have damaged all the soldering points and broken the working connection in the process. i found the solder was sticking to the iron forming blobs of hot solder rather than where i wanted the connection to be made. i must have been doing something wrong
Hmm i think im just going to live without the buttons now and rely on the volume controls within the rom until the next nexus is out. Might even volume cable and attempt this again at that point.
Thanks a lot for your help anyway, it was useful experience!

[Q] Unglued cable digitizer Samsung Galaxy Note 2

Hello!
I just finish to "unglued" my digitizer cable on my note 2 ,
Please, just take a look at the picture, maybe can I do something to put it back.
Look like unglued..have you any idea if that flex cable it's glued or soldered ?
Thank you very much.

Wow.. I just did the exact same thing yesterday.. same spot on the cable and everything. I did it when I was replacing the glass.. I've tried taping it back.. and now I've tried gluing it , the touch kinda works but really inconsistent and annoying. I've spent way too much time trying to fix it and think I'm just gonna sell as parts now. What did you end up doing? Any luck getting it reattached? If you were successful please let me know what you did.

tri0xinn said:
Wow.. I just did the exact same thing yesterday.. same spot on the cable and everything. I did it when I was replacing the glass.. I've tried taping it back.. and now I've tried gluing it , the touch kinda works but really inconsistent and annoying. I've spent way too much time trying to fix it and think I'm just gonna sell as parts now. What did you end up doing? Any luck getting it reattached? If you were successful please let me know what you did.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For me, was no way to put back this flex cable... and I think its close to impossible to make something good with this display.
I just stored that display ....for don't throw it.
Good luck!

this is a usual ribbon cable. i teared mine replacing the screen... will try to replace it and report back.
maybe it will require light smd oven soldering and that will suck big time. maybe i can just pressure it down somehow. your cases are much better, you still have the original cable and half of it is already soldered making it much easier to solder the rest.

gcbxda said:
this is a usual ribbon cable. i teared mine replacing the screen... will try to replace it and report back.
maybe it will require light smd oven soldering and that will suck big time. maybe i can just pressure it down somehow. your cases are much better, you still have the original cable and half of it is already soldered making it much easier to solder the rest.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have do the exact same thing,
Is this going to work?
cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140945664484&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
Thanks

Goathier said:
I have do the exact same thing,
Is this going to work?
cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140945664484&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
probably. i hope you haven't glued the glass already
edit, actually that one probably have that ribon cable already attached. i can only see the plug that clips on the motherboard(?)... not sure that is what you want

Goathier said:
I have do the exact same thing,
Is this going to work?
cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140945664484&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats not the same part, the part u listed on ebay is for the stylus. U can easily tell its not the same part as shown in the original post. Check out this youtube video at the 20:50 minute mark, it will show u the exact parts and u can tell. Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxgZeb5QytM
Unfortunatly the part the original poster pictured is part of the digitizer and is near impossible to fix once ripped. all ive been able to find online is that ribbon cable being sold with the digitizer itself. If anyone else actually finds the part shown in the original post please do post back.